TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re now to help you take on your home improvement projects, your remodeling rackets, your decoration quandaries. Whatever is on your to-do list, we’d enjoy in order to be allowed to swap it over to us, right now, by picking up the phone and calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
We’ve got a busy substantiate planned for you. Coming up this hour, time because it’s starting to cool off and get dark a little bit earlier, well, that doesn’t mean you have to cut back on outdoor entertaining. We’re going to have some the recommendations on three ways you can extend the use of your outdoor space.
LESLIE: And stainless steel is a popular choice for kitchen drops. But not all stainless steel is created equal. We’re going to tell you what you need to consider before buying your next kitchen sink.
TOM: And it’s hard to believe but it’s almost time to close your pool for the season, that is if you’re lucky enough to have one. We’re going to have some tips to avoid high-pitched restore invoices next time, by teaching you how to winterize it the right way today.
LESLIE: But first, we want to hear what you are working on. Getting ready for back to school? Maybe your teenagers are already back and you’re working on some apartments in the home? Getting ready for the winter season? Well, whatever it is, we’re here to lend a hand, so devote us a call.
Let’s got to get it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Hey, Bill, you’ve came The Money Pit. What can we do for you today?
BILL: Trying to hang a projector screen in my basement. It’s a finished cellar and there’s a beam going across an opening here that, after drilling into the drywall, found out that it’s- well, there must be steel or iron of some sort and ...
TOM: Not a good surprise.
TOM: OK. So you’re kind of wondering how you can attach this. So this projector that you want to hang, I guess it’s got some weight to it?
BILL: Sorry, it’s a projector screen. So I need to be able to pull it up and down.
TOM: Well, the drywall is going to be maybe attached to something aside from that one steel beam. That beam’s probably used to support the ceiling joists or the floor joists for the flooring above. But what’s bracing the drywall up? It can’t is gonna be on steel.
BILL: Yeah, I’m not sure. Since it’s in a finished cavity there, I’m not able to climb underneath it.
TOM: Well, this may be a case where you have to do some investigative surgery there by eliminating a piece of drywall, because I think it’s extraordinary that you have a beam, you are aware- I entail it’s certainly not peculiar to have a beam but having a beam that’s taking up that whole opening "couldve been" bizarre. We required to figure out any other way to get this thing attached.
I guess what I is very likely recommend you do is if you are going to attach it to the sword beam, I would drill through that radiation and affix a wood block to it. And then append the screen to the blocks so it’s easier for you to work with the already existing fastenings and hardware that come with it. As long as you have a procure contact there, then it should work. It doesn’t seem to me like only a screen that would pull down is going to take all that much support. But certainly, it can’t be just in the drywall.
TOM: But you need to figure out what else is behind there aside from the drywall.
How old is your mansion, by the way? I’m curious.
BILL: Let’s watch. The live was built in the mid-5 0s. I’m not sure when the vault was finished. Probably sometime in the late 90 s.
TOM: Yeah, that- mid-5 0s is a very good age for a live. I bet you have a lot of lumber in that house that you have to be discovered. You’ve just got to figure out how it’s being led so that you can get into some of the rafters there.
TOM: A good-quality stud finder can be used to spy all that.
TOM: Tell you another stunt, very: if you contain your flashlight- a really strong flashlight- parallel with the ceiling, almost right on it, you’re go to almost every hammer fixing or every screw fixing that’s going through that drywall into a joist above it. And you’ll know what it is it’s run.
TOM: It’s not "il be going" obvious when you look for- when you simply look up with your eyes. But if you get up there with a ladder, hold that flashlight so the light goes right across the bottom surface of that rafter, parallel to it- that ceiling - you’re going to see exactly where all the fixings are and right on the fixings is the wood.
BILL: OK. I expect if I can see the joists, I could probably threw some fastens into the joists instead if that ...
TOM: Exactly. Yep, precisely. Correct.
And once you find the first one, recollect the next one is going to be either 16 or 24 inches apart.
BILL: OK, great.
TOM: Alright? Well, good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Charlotte in North Carolina on the line who has got a popcorn ceiling that doesn’t have butter on it.
Charlotte, tell us what’s exiting on.
CHARLOTTE: Well, what happens now- we have a chocolate-brown stain on the ceiling from the opening but we’ve had the opening repaired, of course. And it’s a popcorn ceiling. I’ve ever hated this popcorn ceiling; I’m not opposed to getting rid of it. But I’m just wondering, what’s very good behavior to construct the restore here? Because I’m afraid if we just take off the section where the blot is, it’s not going to match anymore and it’ll - you can- it’ll be like a restored seem. What "couldve been" your suggestion?
LESLIE: Now, is it absolutely a popcorn ceiling? Like when you reach up, you sort of end up with fragments of it? Or is it like a textured stucco ceiling?
CHARLOTTE: Whatever that drywall is that they kind of make and they spray on the ceiling.
TOM: Yeah. So, here’s the thing. You’ve had the ceiling divulge. The ceiling divulge is now restored?
TOM: Has it physically marred the ceiling or is it just the blots you’re concerned about?
CHARLOTTE: It primarily consider this to be the stains. To me, it looks like there might be one big section that might have a little bit of a protrusion in it.
TOM: Alright. Well, let’s ignore that for the moment. What I would suggest you do is to use a good-quality primer and repaint that ceiling.
Now, if it’s merely a quite limited area, you could primary precisely the grime and leave the rest. If it’s a bigger area, you’ve got to prime the whole ceiling. But if you use a good-quality primer there, like a KILZ or a B-I-N or something like that, then that should seal in the grime and you have been able articulated depict on top of that. You are gonna have to depict the whole ceiling if it’s not been done recently. But if you close it with a primer and then cover it, that are able to fix the ceiling blot disappear and continue the popcorn.
Removing the popcorn, at this point, is just a whole lot of work but it sounds like it’s genuinely not necessary in order to be allowed to do, unless you merely don’t like the regard of it.
CHARLOTTE: Thank you very much. That’ll aid a great deal. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re welcome, Charlotte. Thanks so much for christen us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Phil in Mississippi who has a lumber question. What can we do for you?
PHIL: Hey. I recently- an opportunity to acquire about 500 gave 4x4x8 timbers.
PHIL: And I’m fixing to start a new-home construction in about the next 30 epoches. And the only way I anatomy I’m ever going to be made of money is out of my sweat equity. So I was going to participated these in half and turn them into the 2x4s that I would use to- for my studs for my walls. But I was not sure if anything in those treated 4x4 materials would leach out into the house over the years and effect any kind of harm due to the chemicals.
TOM: Interesting question. Not that I can think of, because we do employment treated log for sill slabs all the time and I’ve never heard such issues related to that. But boy, it’s going to be a lot of work for you to verified those 4x4s down to 2x4s, because ...
LESLIE: Tom, any concern about the coherence of the lumber? Is there- because berths- well, traditional ornaments are kiln-dried and these are more wet from the compound that are used?
TOM: Yeah. You may have a lot more movement inside the walls, that’s genuine. So you could get a lot more twisting as a result of this. I mean 4x4s are typically very moisten and even if they look cool on the outside, once you cut them they could, mostly, twist like a pretzel. So you may find that you formulated walls with them and then you catch out that the walls have all kinds of bends when it’s way too late to fix them.
So, listen, the cost of 2x4s as part of the entire residence building fund is fairly minimal. So I "wouldve been" think twice about whether or not it realizes ability to do this. You might just want to hold onto them, use them for a retaining wall, use them for landscaping projections, that sort of thing. I don’t ponder, if it was me, I would consider this a good use.
PHIL: OK. Well, that’s exactly what I needed, because I had not even thought about them not being kiln-dry. I just assumed they were just like 2x4s, so that’s a good point.
LESLIE: No, they’re so wet.
TOM: Yeah, they change like crazy. I’ve seen them twist 90 stages sometimes; it’s really nuts.
PHIL: Oh, wow. OK. Well, guys, I do appreciate it. You might have just saved me a major headache 20 times from now.
TOM: Alright. Well, we’re so happy we could. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are chanted to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breath and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call with your how-to, decor, even your remodeling the issues to be 888 -MONEY-PIT presentation by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local dwelling improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And exactly ahead, with time three activities, you could extend the use of your outdoor rooms well into fall. We’ll have those summer-saving projects, after this.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presentation by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros and journal appointments online, all for free.
TOM: So, Leslie, this summer you tackled your outdoor-living space. And did I "know what youre talking about" really framed some lighters in? How did that proceed?
LESLIE: I did. It actually came out really great. And this time, I exited with some of those LEDs- I guess you would call them a “cafe light” where you have the disclosed fiber in the bulb, except these are dimmable and a very incandescent feel, with the soundnes of the LED bulbs.
LESLIE: They look great. I lay in some solar-powered lights. I sort of opted for some real easy do-it-yourself stuff out there when it came to the lighting. And we’re simply desiring that seat. I symbolize it’s amazing how not that big-hearted of a change in the landscaping, an addition of a stone wall with a big planter- and my ground is insignificant. I don’t want anybody to think I’m sitting on a big piece of owned. My entirety asset mas is 40x100 and I mull my ground works out to be 25 x20. It’s little.
And I induced it feel like it’s so much bigger. And it’s great to see the girls running around. So it’s so fun when you creatively think about how to use this cavity and it succeeds.
TOM: I think about that a lot when I lie in my hammock that I set. I’m like, “Yeah, this is working out pretty well.”
888-666-3974. What projections are you tackling? Or maybe you just got one done and you want to tell us all about it, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Laurie in California, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
LAURIE: I am trying to set a freestanding floor in my backyard. And my backyard has blackberry bushes in it, so I have to get rid of the blackberry bushes first.
LAURIE: And I don’t want them to, you are aware, ripen back up through the deck.
LAURIE: So how could I do that?
TOM: Well, they’re probably not going to grow through the deck, because the deck is going to see block all sunlight to it. That said, as you prep the soil, what you’re going to want to do is- certainly, you have to build status for this, right? So you construct the grounds and then you take off whatever the top surface is there, if there’s grass, whatever. And then you lay down weed block- which is sort of this black, burlap-y kind of fabric. And you lay that down underneath the deck and then you can go ahead and frame over that.
What you might end up doing is do the framing and then kind of lay the fabric down at the very last minute because, sincerely, it’s kind of hard to walk on it while you’re framing this deck. So you might end up even putting the flooring joists down, then lay the fabric under it, then finish it off. And that’ll help slow down anything that wants to come up right away.
But I think that once this deck is built, it’s going to be so dark under there that you’re not going to have problems with the blackberry bushes coming up through the deck. It certainly would come around it but not through it.
LAURIE: OK. Alright. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Laurie. Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve came Ken on the line who’s got a question regarding the countertops at the dwelling. What’s going on?
KEN: Well, I have a quartz countertop that "were having" invested professionally, probably, 12 years ago. But one of the seams has smashed loose and I’m trying to figure out how to get that seam sealed again or get onto glued back together again. Is there a mode I can do that?
TOM: So you have some action on these slabs, so to speak, that is causing the seam to open up? Maybe some expansion and reduction?
KEN: It’s over the dishwasher. And we- I put too much pressure on it and it broke the seam released. So, I applied some value on it.
KEN: So I’m just trying to get onto sealed- glued back together again.
TOM: So, it’s kind of a hard racket to do yourself, because you’re not going to have access to the materials that installers are going to use. But they probably squandered an epoxy-like seal when they first frame it together. Right now, I would think all you want to do is stop moisture from getting in there so that you don’t get mold increment and that style of thing.
But if you want to actually repair it, I’m afraid you probably are going to have to go back to a pro. And as you’ve discovered, there’s genuinely two issues: there’s whatever structurally allowed it to bend like that, even with the pressure on it. You want to make sure that gets beefed up; otherwise, it’s going to happen again. And then, of course, you’ve got to get the seam resealed.
So, those are the steps that are involved. But I don’t feel like they’re DIY assignments, because I don’t think you’re going to have appropriate tools and materials you need to get it done. It’s kind of specialized doing that granite-countertop work.
KEN: Oh, OK. Well, I noticed underneath there is no support. It’s a stratum that’s out in an open orbit. So, that was one thing that really vexed me, because it’s quitted down a bit bit.
TOM: That’s part of the issue. So that are actually should be beefed up. It was possible that you’re going to have to pulling your dishwasher out in order to sort of stiffen up the underside there with framing, this is why it corroborates those countertops. Because man, they are super heavy, as you know.
TOM: And that, plus a little pressure on top, is probably all you needed to break it loose.
KEN: Alright. Appreciate that. Thank you.
TOM: Alright, Ken. You’re welcome. Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, the days may be getting a bit cool soon and shorter as we move in towards the fall season. But taking on time three jobs now- and you don’t have to put an end to all of that outdoor entertaining.
TOM: That’s right.
And first, just like the landscape wedding we just has spoken about, think about adding exterior lighting, extremely lighting on timers this is why it exclusively is on when you need it to be. And you can also think about picking up some solar-powered lights if you crave a really inexpensive direction to have some decoration, say, along a walkway.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Another great thing that you can add to your space, that will certainly extend the life of that blot, is a fire pit, a fireplace, a terrace heater. All of these everything is readily available these days. And if you want to build one yourself, it’s a so easy do-it-yourself project.
Not only do they create a really cozy and warm gap, they also include a great ambiance to entertaining. I’m looking forward to a gas-powered sort of fire pit/ coffee counter. I’m not encountering one in the style that I really like but I can’t wait to get out there in September and were participating in the couch and use the fire pit. It’s so great.
TOM: And lastly, if you’ve got a pool, a puddle put-on is all it takes to harness that daytime sunlight so it stands warmer after Labor Day.
If you make really these three steps, you can definitely enjoy your backyard hideaway even after the first frost.
888-666-3974. Give us a call right now. We’d love to hear about your next residence better project.
LESLIE: Joanne in Alaska is on the line with an electric-heating question. What is impossible to do for you today?
JOANNE: Well, I have obtained a coin pit next door to my home and it’s a five-unit complex that was built around 1901.
JOANNE: And it has this heating system- I’m from New Orleans, initially, so knowing about heating system is not my forte.
TOM: Yeah, well , now that you live in Alaska, you’d better learn quick, huh?
JOANNE: I’m working on it. But the chamber of representatives I lived in had petroleum heat; this is a wall-mounted- it’s about 4 paws by 20 or 24 inches.
JOANNE: The skin-deep of it consider this to be warming trays that you use- a buffet, you are aware? It’s like a( inaudible) thing and is this still stimulated? I have one glass that’s broken. They do have wall-mounted thermostats. What is the efficiency of this kind of hot? Is it ridiculous or ...?
TOM: It’s not. It is ridiculous. I want it’s - first of all, it’s electrical hot, so- it’s electric-resistance hot. They’re exactly applying the glass as the hot exchanger, so to speak. And I’ve seen these before and they sort of hang off walls and the air is supposed to pass through behind them and sort of establish this convective loop.
TOM: And will they wield? Yeah, they toil but they’re very expensive. Are there any other heating an opportunity for you there?
JOANNE: Well, electrical is my only option in these forces. They’re all electric, so is there a more efficient electric type of heat?
TOM: Well, a hot spout- electrical hot spout- would be the most efficient but I think in Alaska, I’d probably ruler that out. The environment is just too raw for that. So , no, I guess you’re going to be stuck with resist heat.
Now, if they’re break-dance - you mentioned that one was broken?
JOANNE: Yeah, the glass on one of them is broken.
TOM: Well, if the glass is broken, I guess it’s potentially unsafe. Depends on how the heating ringlet is distributed inside that glass. If you did have to replace them, you can buy new glass wall-panel heaters. And actually, some of them can appear kind of stylish. Some of the new ones gape almost like a flat-screen TV; they’re colors and sort of modern-looking.
JOANNE: Is that better than the baseboard heat? I see a lot of beings here use these baseboard heaters.
TOM: Yeah, they’re all electrical heat, yeah. The only advantage is that you’re enabled to control the hot of each individual area separately that lane, so you have a bit more restraint. But it will be expensive to run.
JOANNE: Mm-hmm. OK. So the best alternative would be to put in oil or something to bring another kind of heat in.
TOM: Well, that’s right. If the gasoline was available, you would be almost always better off with oil, propane or gas than electric.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for scream The Money Pit.
Remember, you can call us anytime 24 hours a day, 7 days a week with your home mend or your home progress question. We’re now to lend a hand at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Just ahead, stainless steel is an always popular option for your kitchen submerge. But not all stainless is initiated equal, so we’re going to explain what significant differences is when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Where residence mixtures live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presentation by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your residence job before you hire that pro and instant book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Mike on the line who has a question about separation. How can we help you?
MIKE: Yes. I have a wall on the west side of my home. It gets pretty heated. I live here in Arizona, so I get- it does got to get 118 sometimes. But is there- and it’s a block home. Is there a room that I can shield that so that it doesn’t fairly get in as much heat as it does?
TOM: Well, isolating the wall will be difficult because you can’t get to the interior of it. If you have been able, I would tell you to use a spray-foam insulation and fill up the interior cores. But that’s difficult to do since the home is completely built.
Is it at all possible for you to add an awning to that surface or create some sort of shade that would block up some of the sunlight?
MIKE: It’s possible, yes.
TOM: See, something along those lines would be less expensive, even though it might be a bigger thing for you to look at than some separation. But if you were to deflect some of that sun- and I know that they have awnings, in your areas of the country, that have contemplative faces that are cool underneath. That is very likely make a big difference in the heat that you’re dealing with. Because I guess what you’re saying is that the wall gets super heated and then you’re basically more air conditioning to raise it down, in terms of the temperature.
TOM: Yeah. And the other thing that you could do on the inside of it - you could ever shield the inside of it with a foam insulation. You could use an isocyanurate council, for example, or the blue Dow STYRO types of board that interlockings. And use that as a wall extend and then situated drywall on top of that. So that’s another thing that you can do.
But I think if "youre supposed to" block some of that sunlight with an awning, for example, or some landscaping, I speculate that that would probably be the least expensive behavior to achieve what you’re trying to do here.
MIKE: Alright. I will take a look at that then.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, stainless steel is an obvious option for a kitchen capsize, because it cleans up quickly and it’s got a great, professional review. But while most buyers think that all stainless sinks are similar, there can actually be a huge qualitative difference.
And here’s what you need to be most aware of.
TOM: Yeah. Now, first up, the gauge of the metal. That’s the thickness. You want to think strong, silent category here. The higher the ascertain of the steel, the thinner it is and therefore the noisier and more flexible. So, what you’re looking for is 16 to 18 gauge. That’s going to stand up to dents, as well as the tremor brought about by, say, a debris disposer.
And depth is also important. Six-inch deep, they are cheap to shape but they sprinkle, they don’t hold much water. The 10 -inch sinks, on the other hand, much better choice. A big plus, also, when the countertop seat is limited.
LESLIE: Next, you want to give it the thrash assessment. Now, stainless-steel drops can be loud, so look for those with a rubbery undercoating and pads, which are going to help deaden the clang of running water, clattering silverware. And it’s too going to reduce the condensation in that base cabinet.
Last, you want to look for a good drain. Now, some submerges come with drain assembles and baskets and some don’t. Now, there’s a orientation and a scheme to consider, as well. Towards the back is necessary that you’re going to have more usable infinite in the cornerstone locker and better drainage when the recipes are piled up in the settle. And you know that happens a good deal at both of our houses.
TOM: Absolutely. Definitely something you’d like to avoid. If I can only get the kids to start put those dishes right into the dishwasher.
LESLIE: No. It’s got to go in the sink first.
TOM: Oh, yeah, it’s a rite of passage.
LESLIE: First stop: sink.
TOM: This is The Money Pit. Call us, right now, with your residence progress question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Charlene in Louisiana is on the line with a roofing question. What are you working on?
CHARLENE: I have a shallow roof on my house. They call it a 2:3 slope. It’s not flat but it’s exceedingly shallow, OK? Almost no attic, about perhaps 2 paws in there. I was interested in an aluminum roof, like a lifetime roof? And I wanted to know which would be better: that or a regular shingle roof, like an architectural roof.
TOM: You don’t have the pitch for an asphalt-shingle roof. You need to have at least a 3:12 or a 4:12 roof to put in shingles.
CHARLENE: Well, I have shingles on it now and they’ve been there for 20 years.
TOM: I’m telling you, you may but it’s not right. You are simply gave shingles on a ceiling that’s got a minimum pitch of 3:12 or 4:12. And if you’ve got them on there right now, tally your blessings but it shouldn’t have been put on there. And any roofing manufacturer will tell you that.
If you- your alternatives, therefore, are either to do, say, a rolled roofing or a rubber roofing or a metal roof, as long as it’s rated for that low pitch. And I think a metal roof is a great investment if you’re running happening there for the long haul. But that’s what I would invest in because with that low-grade of a move, you probably don’t see it very much and you was intended to stimulate sure that it’s really going to be watertight. And with a low pitch, you simply can’t use an architectural shingle; it really won’t work.
Thanks so much for order us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Give us a see with your dwelling amend or your home better question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’ve got a pool, did you know that one common misstep when you close it up can make its water hazardou for next season? We’re going to tell you what you need to know, in today’s Pro Project presentation by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Drawing good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If you’ve got a question about your next residence betterment project, we are standing by and ready to help.
LESLIE: Hey, Tom, I can’t guess that summer is- it’s nearly over.
TOM: I know, I know.
LESLIE: Everybody’s getting in these last little outings and all these undertakings before everybody’s got to go back to institution and really focus on work. But you and their own families, you guys just took a tour, right? I see Virginia?
TOM: Yeah, we actually- West Virginia, yeah. I desire that area down there. It’s just so beautiful. And we make a trip-up and we was coming but unfortunately, my auto did not. We had a major problem.
LESLIE: Oh , no.
TOM: Yeah, we were crossing the West Virginia mountains and the engine, all of a sudden, was beginning to rev up to over 5,000 rpms. I’m like, “This is not good.” And then we gathered over. We get off an off-ramp and following the completion of the off-ramp, the engine exactly quit. And that’s it; it would not start up again. It was 100 miles ...
LESLIE: You haven’t had this gondola that long.
TOM: Well , no, actually, I have. It was a 2011 Audi Q7 and I had 215,000 miles on it. So I can’t certainly deplore that it didn’t last-place a very long time, because it did. Although I’m not really a big fan of the Audi brand anymore, because I think they had some device concerns they weren’t definitely up-front with or helpful when it came time to fix it. However, that aside, I still placed a lot of miles on the car.
But listen to this. So, I call a tow truck, AAA, thankfully. They made me the- they made me 98 of the 100 miles to where I had to go. And guess what happened at Mile 98? The tow truck broke down. Broke down. I cuss the tow truck broke down. There is smoke coming out of the tires, there’s an aura divulge. The move supposed to say to me, “I’m going to go into this convenience store.” It was like a sort of truck stop/ convenience store.
TOM: I tried to buy a duet of frailty grip so I could clamp off the aura boundary and get us back on the road. So he’s in there for 10 times and I’m thinking, “There’s no way they’re going to have vice controls next to the bread, the milk and the eggs in this convenience store.”
LESLIE: They might.
TOM: They didn’t. But you know what? I was thinking about it and I are really made four implements so that when we got to our home, we would be able to do minor amends. And one of those was a vice grip.
Now, imagine this: my large-hearted SUV is on the top of this flatbed. I’ve got to climb up there, I’ve got to empty the stuff. I eventually find appropriate tools that I need to fix this air line. Then the tow-truck driver says to me, “You know, what I actually need is a needle-nose vice grip.” I said, “You mean like this? ” And it was the one tool I had with me. I don’t know why I grabbed that one. It was intuition. But I had the needle-nose vice grip. We fixed off the breath line.
But it was funny because I swear there was a rupture that came to that West Virginia boy’s eye when I was indicated that, because he thought that we were done. We fix off the air indication, we got some zip ties and we sort of MacGyvered the strain to the body of the tow truck. And off we went to the repair facility, where I removed my auto, rented another one that ...
LESLIE: He drooped the tow truck.
TOM: Yeah. Dropped my vehicle, hired another one so we could move on with our outing. And the next day, I would like to call that the engine was completely killed. And so, my automobile did not come home. It is in the passes of the West Virginia Make--AWish Foundation or probably, more accurately, the Make--AWish Chop Shop being sold for areas right now. And I am in the market for a brand-new SUV. That was the beginnings of my trip and it got much better from there. But it was certainly not the practice I envisioned it happening.
LESLIE: Well, bright side, you’re going to get a brand-new car.
TOM: That’s right. That’s right.
LESLIE: Downside, you didn’t plan on it. But that’s how I got my truck. I was driving on the LIE out to visit my sister in my five-year-old Buick. Engine block confiscated. That was it. It was dead, it was done.
TOM: Simply five years. I approximate I shouldn’t complain.
LESLIE: Five years.
TOM: Mine was eight.
LESLIE: But I’m really happy with my new auto. I’ve got the Toyota 4Runner. I cherish it. My favourite percentage is the back opening moves down.
TOM: Oh, yeah. There you go.
Well, there’s our car-repair woes. But if you’ve got a home repair woe that we can help you with, you’re welcome to give us a scold, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’ve got a pool, it’s almost time to close it up for the season. But if the process is not done correctly, you may defined yourself up for failing when it comes time to open it again next time. That’s why this is a project best turn left to a pro. We’ll explain why, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, first of all, your pool’s filtration system is the most susceptible to freezing temperatures. And that requires special attention. To avoid any costly repairs, that plan, you have got to exhaustively flush it and drain those pipings and made to ensure that the fixtures are evacuated before the freezing wintertime temps set in.
Now, to make sure that it’s done right, pros are going to use a compressor that’s going to blow out the breath by just super-pressured air through the tubes. And they retain that persuade at less than 20 pounds per square inch. That’s sort of the key figure is responsible for ensuring that you’re getting enough adversity to clear everything out but you’re not going to see damage the system.
Next up, you’ve got to add some antifreeze to that organization itself but not the genu that you pick up at the auto-repair store for your car. These pros are going to use peculiarly formulated propylene-glycol RV antifreeze. That’s really important for the security of swimmers come next season, as well as for people and babies that might come in contact with it and immerse spilled or maybe even placed liquid. You’ve got to be so careful.
Now, this specialized antifreeze provides freeze-and-burst protection to temps as low-grade as minus-5 0 degrees Fahrenheit. And it’s generally safe for beings and the environment.
TOM: And lastly, don’t forgotten to plug the skimmer. Otherwise, information systems could fill up with rainwater or softened snow and develop injury despite your best efforts.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get accorded with top-rated home service pros in your orbit, comparison costs, predicted validated the examinations and volume appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No question the type of job, HomeAdvisor procreates it fast and easy to hire the best local pros.
LESLIE: Richard in Kansas, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICHARD: I’m interested- I have an older home I remodeled. It’s built in the 30 s and I wanted to throw in a whole-house water-filtration organization. And I was just going to connect right to the service line going in.
And I’ve been patronize around. I encountered the small canister forms and then it precisely mounts up to a big, 33 -gallon, barrel-type filtration, which is too much. And I only wanted to know what a good label is and what I need- reverse-osmosis and all that.
TOM: Richard, 3M performs the Filtrete line. That’s F-i-l-t-r-e-t-e. And they have single filters for exploit under perhap your kitchen sink or lavatory but they also have a whole-house system. It’s not atrociously expensive; I think it’s under 100 bucks. And station is pretty straightforward, so perhaps you could even do it yourself. And they too have numerous levels of filtration.
So I would take a look at the Filtrete Whole-House System Water Filters and I think that’s a good pick to make sure your water is tasting good throughout the entire home.
LESLIE: You can reach us anytime at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. Find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro and instantaneously journal one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
Still onward, don’t let a pressure washer do more damage than good. We’re going to have tips-off on choosing the right pressure washer for the surface that needs to be cleaned, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a entitle, right now, or post your question online to The Money Pit’s Community sheet or our Facebook page. That’s what Jacqueline did from Chicago. And Jacqueline consider this to be she’s doing some cleanup.
LESLIE: Yeah. Jacqueline writes: “I’d like to buy a influence washer for my floor but I’m restless that I’m going to see damage the timber. I witnessed washers with different types of nozzles but should I be looking forward to adjustable PSI? What do I need to know about adjusting the pressure for different surfaces? ”
TOM: Well, first and foremost, adversity washers are a great tool. I mean they’re fast, they’re effective and they easily remove dirt and grime from your home’s exterior or your floor or your barge or your gondola. You want to have the amount of water pressure that does the occupation and not more than that. A basic, light-duty pressure washer "il go to" work at about 1,300 to 2,000 PSI. And that is about 30 durations as strong as a plot hose. So that’s going to be a good choice for scavenging crafts and autoes and siding.
And from there, they come near. You can pick up one that goes up to as much as 4,000 PSI and that may strip a surface for repainting. But you want to be very careful to only call whatever it is you need. Because if you use too much, you can easily damage it. Even though it’s fun, for example, to cleanse sidewalks of the moss and the algae that may stick to them, if you’re using the bad influence rectifying you’re going to find that you can actually carve away some of the surface of that concrete. And you won’t spot it until you’re all done and you’ll be only entirely beset by it.
So, choose carefully but it’s a great investment.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you’re going to see "ve got a lot" of enjoyable cleansing things once you figure out how to do it and you’re using it accurately. You seriously will start and might not stop until you reach the end of the block.
Alright. Next up, I have a post here from Aaron in New York City who writes: “The wallpaper in my kitchen and bathroom is 26 years old. I’d like to get rid of it but I dread making everything is down. Can I depict over the age-old wallpaper? It’s in relatively good shape and it’s only curling in one small-time distinguish near a baseboard.”
TOM: I don’t know. Listen, you could draw over it but really, I think it’s best to take it down.
What do you think, Leslie?
LESLIE: The rebut is: you have been able. The real issues is: should you? No. You’re putting paint on a surface that’s removable. So, eventually it’s going to fall off. You’re not shutting it in and keeping it safe for forever. You’re exactly contributing another mantle of rigmarole when it’s time to actually do some real undertaking. So ...
TOM: And it also is a lot difficult to take off if you paint it is now time and you decide in a pair times you want to make it down. It’s a lot harder to take down wallpaper that has paint on it, because you can’t get the steam or the solutions that will loosen the glue beyond the stratum of draw. So it only was becoming really big mess.
LESLIE: Yeah, I would not recommend it. The gimmick is preparing to remove the paper. Some parties advocate scoring it so that the application that you add to it gets to the adhesive back of the paper. Some beings like to use a PaperTiger that really super tallies it to tiny, minuscule pieces.
Either way, you’ve got to settled a answer on top of it. A spate of people use a fabric softener-and-water mix that are helpful in tighten the adhesive. And then the real trick is a steamer and a rentable collect- store-rentable wallpaper steamer. You will steam the working paper until the heat and the humidity loosen up the glue and then you can start to peel apart the bits. The key here is the smaller you score the working papers, the more pieces you have to pull off the wall. So, I ever try to get one, large-scale, long piece off like when you’re peeling an apple, you know.
LESLIE: But you do what you can. It’s going to take a lot of time. And when you get to the new face, you’re going to want to beach it, prep it in any way you can. Assess what that wall looks like. Choose a draw with a low-grade gleam and you’re going to have a good, finished product.
TOM: Yeah. And priming is very important. You want to primary that surface. If you primary over that aged face, whatever paint you put on top of that is going to lay exceedingly flat and really stick well. And it’ll really glance stunning. So, glance, kitchen, lavatory, big chamber I would take it off.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Thank you so much for spending this- one of the final time weekends, the final warm-weather weekends with us. We hope we’ve given you some tips and advice to finish up those time projects and some inspiration to take on projects designed to the seasons ahead.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No fraction of this transcript or audio document may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Yield, Inc .)
If your home suffers from drippy, wet condensation on the inside of windows during cold weather, you’ve probably noticed it can make a real mess of everything below. In the 20 years I spent as a professional home inspector, I’ve noticed all sorts of so-called DIY “solutions” for this problem, from rolled up towels strategically placed to catch drips on the window sills below, to very creative attempts at channeling water with what can only be described as a built-in gutter connected to the bottom of these persistently wet windows! Needless to say, while amusing, these well-intentioned attempts rarely provide any long term benefit.
Truth be told, if you really want to stop window condensation, you first need to understand why it happens. Let’s start with an example most can related to. Imagine sitting outside on a warm summer day with a glass of ice-cold lemonade at your side. The outside of that glass will be wet with condensation. Why? Because warm air holds more moisture than cold air, and as the warm summer air that strikes that cold glass and gets chilled, it releases the moisture it held and voilà – you’ve got condensation!
This same thing happens inside a home when conditions are right. If water forms on the inside of windows, there’s likely a combination of causes allowing that to happen. These include high humidity, poor insulation and a lack of good mechanical and passive ventilation. They all combine to let moisture form and rise up through the home causing a wide variety of potentially unhealthy and unpleasant conditions from water damage, to mold and more.
Building science tells us that this movement of moist air is part of the “stack effect” where warmer air enters a structure from the lower floors, often though a crawlspace or basement, and then rises up through the building – cooling as it goes – and releasing much of that moisture along the way. It’s a powerful force, but one that can be overcome with steps to reduce moisture at all its sources.
How to Stop Condensation Inside Windows – Once and For All
Given that we can’t fight physics, the best way to stop condensation from forming on the inside of windows is to reduce the humidity that allows that moisture to form in the first place. That includes addressing the most common ways excess moisture gets in to the home, improving windows to be able to reduce the temperature differential between outside and inside, and improving the ventilation needed to move the moisture out. Some of these steps are simple, some take more time, expense and planning. But all will help reduce or completely eliminate moisture from forming inside your windows and can be accomplished individually or all at once.
Grading, Gutters and Drainage
Whether you have a home on a basement, crawlspace or slab, chances are you are letting too much moisture collect too close to your foundation. Gutters often become clogged, downspouts rarely extend far enough away from a home and soil often settles around the foundation. These conditions allow rain water to take aim at your concrete or block foundation which is perfectly suited to absorb that moisture and discharge it as humidity that evaporates from the foundation into the house, or even as a full-fledged basement or crawlspace flood!
To stop the flow, clean your gutters, extend spouts at least 4 to 6 feet away and make sure the grading around your home slopes AWAY from the foundation. For all the details, read our post about stopping wet basements as the very same advice applies.
For crawlspaces, and especially those with dirt floors, it’s also important to install a vapor barrier (thick plastic sheet, with as few seams as possible) across the entire crawlspace floor and assure that the crawlspace vents are left open in all but the very coldest months.Improve Ventilation from Bottom to Top
The EPA tells us that indoor air is typically far more polluted that outdoor air. Improving your homes ventilation can make air healthy again. Consider the following:Add Mechanical Ventilation
The foundation of a healthy home is a healthy basement, as basements are one of the biggest contributors to indoor air pollution and high humidity. One product perfectly suited to address both is EZ Breathe. EZ Breathe is a ventilation system that takes moisture out of the air and improves indoor air quality by helping remove odors, allergens, chemicals, mold spores, dander, soil gases, all manners of indoor air pollutants. It works by exhausting the stale air from below grade spaces as well as the contaminants and moisture that come with it, and replaces it with fresh air, thereby creating a healthier, less humid atmosphere.
With humidity being reduced at the source, it’s much less likely to be available to form on windows, walls and other areas inside the home. In fact, some EZ Breathe customers have reported basements feeling dryer and warmer, as well as completely eliminating window condensation.Make Sure Bath and Kitchen Fans Vent Outside
Another common source of moisture inside the home is that which we create from cooking and bathing. In both cases, it’s important that exhaust fans be vented outside. Kitchen vent hoods that don’t exhaust and simply recirculate do nothing to reduce moisture. Bath exhaust fans also need to be vented outside, and not into attics or other crawlspaces. Plus, since humidity hangs around long after bathing is complete, bath exhaust fans should be on timers or humidistats that allow them to run long enough to completely eliminate the moisture before shutting off.
As an added benefit, reducing bathroom humidity also means that mold won’t be able to form nearly as easily, and you’ll be doing a lot less cleaning!
Improve Attic Ventilation
Many homeowners tend to think of the home as being built in sections that are sealed off from each other. But while a roof can keep out the rain and insulation can prevent heat loss, moisture on the other hand, has the uncanny ability to flow freely from the basement to the living space an on up into the attic. That’s why good attic ventilation is an important part of the managing moisture that might otherwise show up as window condensation.
Aside from the negative effects of condensation, moisture that condenses in attics can rot out roof sheathing and render insulation ineffective. In fact, if you are wondering if your attic has excessive moisture, here’s a home inspector’s trick of the trade; Next time you are up there, look at the tips of roof shingle nails that stick through the sheathing. If you see rust on those nail tips – you’ve got moisture that’s not being ventilated!
To correct poor attic ventilation, I recommend continuous soffit and ridge vents. Air will enter the attic at the ridge, run up under the roof sheathing when it carts heat away in summer and moisture away in winter, and exit at the ridge. This 24/7 ventilation solution is far more effective than any other type of mechanical or passive attic ventilation solution.
Replace Old Windows
I saved this point for last because it’s costly and as explained above, there’s a lot you can do short of window replacement to reduce or eliminate condensation inside windows. However, truth be told, the worst windows condensation problems are caused by poorly insulated window glass. Windows that are single pane, many older metal windows or those that are thermal pane where the insulating seal has been lost (these often also appear as foggy) are ripe for a condensation issue.
As we discussed earlier, just like condensation forms on a glass of ice-cold lemonade during a hot summer day, warm moist air that strikes a cold window surface will release that same moisture and turn into a drippy, leaky mold-forming mess in your home. By replacing inefficient, drafty and cold windows with new Energy Star rated units, you’ll find that condensation will be a rare occurrence, especially if you also tackle some of the steps outlined above.
To reduce costs, consider replacing windows on the colder north side of your home first, followed by the east, west and south. By spreading the job over multiple seasons, you’ll be replacing those windows must likely to form condensation first, and then completing the job in year 2, 3 or even 4.
Stopping condensation inside windows is far easier to do if you understand the basic causes and cures. By reducing moisture at its source, adding mechanical ventilation like EZ Breathe, as well as improved bath, kitchen and attic ventilation, and by replacing old, outdated windows, you’ll be able to enjoy a dry, healthy and comfortable indoor environment.
Includes 4 Clear Plastic Drop Cloths, .4MIL
Covers 108 Square Feet
Protection for floor coverings & furniture while panting, also used for protection from water, dust & dirt