TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re here for you, to help you with your summer home improvement projects. Or maybe you’re thinking about proposing a project for the chillier climate ahead. Summer is great because you can plan those projects and get them done while it’s still comfortable to work outside. If any of that is on your to-do list or maybe you’ve just got a decor job or a closet-organization campaign or a kitchen remake, we’d love to hear the details. Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s appearance, as we ability into the heart of the summer season and preserve spending more and more time outside, well, the ticks are doing the same thing. And they can be quite unsafe, so we’re going to have some tips to help you stay clear, including a homemade repellant that really, genuinely works.
LESLIE: And replacing a irrigate heater isn’t often on a homeowner’s increase radar until it is because it’s seeping. We’re going to share tips-off on what you should be checking for now to avoid want emergency permutations later.
TOM: Plus, do you know the easiest door to break into for any house? It’s often the garage door. We’ll tell you why and share the surprisingly simple gradations you can take to secure that entry.
But first, we want to hear from you. Give us a label, right now, with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. If you do, we’ll toss your list in The Money Pit hard hat because we’re giving away two great tools from our friends at Arrow: a professional electric stapler and nailer and the Arrow Dual-Temp Glue Gun. Those products are going out, with a render of staples and glue lodges and everything you need, to one caller drawn at random. The multitude is 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Joe in California is on the line with a leaky chimney. Tell us what’s going on.
JOE: Well, it’s an aged one from the 60 s, I conclude, but it was beautifully constructed. It’s 15 hoof wide and 2 fibs up and I’m on the second story. But the irrigate "ve been through" the mortar coming in and it’s terrible. It’s like a waterfall in the wintertime.
TOM: So, you say that water is coming through the mortar. Do you know for a fact that it’s coming through in a particular place? Because, generally, when chimneys leak, there’s two areas that we concentrate on. The first is the particularly top of the chimney. And if it’s a masonry chimney, you probably have a clay flue liner. Is that correct?
JOE: Yes, it is.
TOM: Alright. And then so the opening between the clay duct liner and the outside edge of the brick chimney, that has to have a concrete cover on it. And that are required to be sloped away from the flue liner to the outside perimeter. It can’t have any cracks or holes or spreads in it. And very frequently, you have to caulk it, if that does develop, around the flue liner, as well as through the cracks.
The second place that chimneys generally reveal is at their intersection with ceilings. And regrettably, roofers have almost universally lost the skills and capacity that would have enabled them to be able to flashing this common properly between the chimney and the ceiling. Because the proper way to do this is with a two-piece flashing system where you have a base blink that goes underneath the ceiling shingle and up against the side of the chimney. Then counter blink, which is etched into the mortar joint, folds over the outside edge of the chimney and also over the basi flashing.
And the reason that sort of two-piece design is important is because chimneys are always moving and roofs are always moving and they don’t move together. And so, this is sort of a slip brace, so to speak, where they can actually move and displacement with the wind and the heat and the downpour and the expansion and contraction without actually breaking down.
So, I would look at those two areas. And then I’ll just give you one other gratuity. If you have a roof where there’s a lot of water running down before it affects the base of the chimney, in a situation like that, what you want to do is leant a diverter on the roof, midway, to kind of short-circuit some of the liquid that’s running down towards the chimney and race it around the chimney. And that will just simply reduce the publication of spray that’s going in there and potentially revealing through into your house.
JOE: This has got a flat, metal top over the top of the chimney that mostly keeps the rain from coming down the chimney but I haven’t really looked at the vent liner up there. That’s a good point.
TOM: Yep. Take a careful search, Joe, OK?
JOE: OK. Alrighty. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Norma from Delaware on the line who wants to know what size pipes you need to get good adversity in the bathroom.
Norma, that sounds like a personal question. What’s going on at your money excavation?
NORMA: OK. I’m going to install a shower panel.
NORMA: And in order to get good- the right influence, how large-scale do the pipings need to be?
TOM: Right. You said you wanted to install a shower panel? So is this one of these units where it comes in and then fans out to multiple spray intelligences?
NORMA: Yeah, the spurts, right.
TOM: How is your irrigate adversity right now?
NORMA: Nice good. Well, my home is about eight years old.
TOM: Oh, if it’s only eight years old and you have pretty good water pressure, you should be OK with this. I will say, though, that the ocean influence coming out of variou showerheads is not going to be as invigorating as coming out of a single showerhead. So, it’s going to give you good coverage but it may not be as strong. And I don’t think there’s much that you can do about that. If you’ve got normal street stres, that’s how those shower-panel contingents are in place to work. But only be mindful that it’s not likely to be as strong when it’s vanishing to come out of variou managers, because you basically really need more spray to do that.
NORMA: Oh, OK. Well, I inquired with the developer and he told me that from the basement to the shower flooring, I have three-quarter tubes. And then from the flooring to the showerhead, 1/2 -inch.
TOM: And that’s ordinary. That’s normal. So, that doesn’t change anything.
NORMA: Oh, OK. Alright. Thank you so much for your help.
TOM: Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Rick in New Jersey, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICK: When our residence was constructed, in place of the usual wooden committees that are used to trim around the edges of the ceilings and around the bottom of the chamber of representatives, they abuse a plastic composite-type material.
RICK: And it’s used in place of wood and it’s maintenance-free, previous forever, that various kinds of material. With the exception that any sit this grove is- this composite fabric is chipped, it becomes kind of a haven for mold and mildew. And you get green growing there and it’s - you expend a great deal of time and endeavor continually pressure-washing to clean-living it out. So, what I’m looking forward to is some means of sealing- is there some road of sealing this to prevent this mold growth on what is otherwise a maintenance-free material?
TOM: Well, if it’s composite, it may be a product called AZEK- -AZ-E-K. And that’s paintable. And so you could paint those areas and that might tend to seal it in a bit more. Because I think what you’re saying is that the cut regions are probably more absorbent than the surface areas and so you’re getting a bit more moisture. Maybe it’s a net. There’s a little rougher surface there that might be a trap for grime that feeds mildew or algae and that sort of thing.
So, what comes to mind right away is that you simply could draw it. But of course, you know what comes after draw: repaint.
RICK: Exactly. It takes away the maintenance-free aspect of it.
RICK: But is there a type of paint that would be more conducive or last longer, like an epoxy-type paint or something like that?
TOM: Not for a surface area like that. No, you would just use an exterior coat and you would probably prime it first.
RICK: So it wouldn’t be latex. It would be an enamel?
TOM: No, you would use a 100 -percent acrylic latex draw. That’s what AZEK recommends be used. And you too might was intended to take a look at Sherwin-Williams for the decorate make, because I know that they have coats that are specifically reached for vinyl or PVC products, which is what that product is. AZEK is simply an extruded cellular PVC.
LESLIE: Not everybody does this but some contractors tend to skip the pace of replenish gap when it comes to a composite cut. You know, they’re like, “Eh, you can’t see it. It’s OK.” But this could give you the opportunity- if you’re going to colour the edging, as well- to move ahead and replenish any nail depressions. And that’ll certainly hand it almost a more natural wood look, the brushstrokes. It could be a good thing.
RICK: OK. Thank you very much. That’s a great idea.
TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And just ahead, don’t get sick from ticks. We’ll have gratuities and gimmicks to help you from get ticked off, after this.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone, right now, and present us a scold. We’d love to hear what you’re working on. The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home programme before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Don’t ignore, give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT where we can give you a hand with whatever it is you’re "workin on". Plus, if you pay us a order now, you’re becoming to get the answer to your question and a chance to win a really great set of tools to get those projects done.
We’ve got, up for grabs, the Arrow T5 0AC Professional Electric Stapler and Nailer, plus the Arrow GT2 0DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun. Now, these guys have been reaching stupendou tools for 90 times for both pros and do-it-yourselfers.
And Arrow really knows what they’re doing. That electrical stapler and nailer delivers consistent pro-grade performance with every fire. And I’ve must tell you that this adhesive gun is my favorite. I love the dual temperatures. It succeeds great on differently constituted surfaces. You can make sure whatever you’re adhering to one another is not going to melt. It’s genuinely going to stick.
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LESLIE: Nils in Delaware is on the line with a fly difficulty at a brand-new room. What’s exiting on?
NILS: Girlfriend obtained a historical home that was located in our county seat where all the court houses are. It was built in 1806 and they moved it out of city. And so now we’re redoing it a room at a time but we’re trying to keep it in date, because it’s in the registry. So, I suspect we’ve got to be careful what we do.
But when we opening hours the ceiling in the downstairs bathroom, there was a humongous snake that have been killed in the ceiling.
TOM: Oh, no.
NILS: And all that was left was the bark and she was done when "shes seen" that.
TOM: Wow. That’s freaky.
NILS: But we’ve got all these different types of frogs in the ground. We’ve got a million ticks and now we’ve got these- everybody’s calling them “furnace flies” that sees them. But we don’t have a furnace. We’ve got a boiler but that’s out in what’s called a “potting shed” and it’s a disconnected structure from the dwelling. So I don’t know where these flies are coming from.
TOM: Well, listen, Nils, we can give you some advice on how to tackle the flies. But between the flies and the clicks and everything else that’s going on in this house, I actually think you should just chipped the sting and pick up the phone and call a pest-control adventurer- a licensed pest-control professional. Because they have appropriate tools and the method used and the products that can effectively and safely make this house a great deal less insect-infested.
Now, with the flies, you are able to impel your own fly traps out of apple-cider vinegar. All you do is you take a cup or a container, you settled a duet inches of vinegar- apple-cider vinegar- in it, you cover the top of that jar with plastic, swipe some pits in it that are big enough for the flies to get in and they’ll find their way in there and they won’t be able to get out. So I mean we can give you some sort of home rectifies like that. But if you’ve get this degree of insect infestation in this old house and even the encircle gardens ...
NILS: Oh, no, no, no. There is no infestation in the chamber of representatives. It’s really we’ve got flies that go around the kitchen and her family room. Most of the flooring is like 18-inch planks, 18 inches wide. And we just don’t know where the flies are coming from and how to be disposed of them. And I have to be careful, because our neighbor was killed in a car accident and we’ve inherited all five members of her "cat-o-nine-tails" because they had nowhere to go, I guess.
TOM: Well, I still think that you could have the house professionally considered, safely, even with the swine inside of it. And it’s going to be a lot more effective than shooting them down with any other type of remedy. The authorities have pyrethrin scatters that you can buy over the counter but I time don’t think you should use them.
A professional is going to come in and sometimes parties meditate, “Well, if the professionals come in, they’re using the really strong stuff.” Well, I ever put it this course: they’re using the right stuff and they’re using the liberty extent of it to do the job at hand. Pesticides today are heavily adjusted and they have to be applied very specifically and consistent with the label directions. And they do a pretty good job, because the guys are trained to know how to get it on. And so, considering the level of problem you’ve went going on now, that’s exactly what I would do here. OK, Nils?
TOM: Well, according to the CDC, there are as many as nine different tickings that you can be to be subjected to when being outside this summer. And each of them can carry a dozen or more diseases and some of which are capable of even be serious.
So, to keep yourself tick-free, there are a few picks in the repellants that you can take. First off, you want to use a repellant that contains 20 percent or more DEET, picaridin or IR3535. Now, any of these is going to give you protection that will last several hours.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, you can also use commodities that have been treated with permethrin. You can produces that are pretreated or you can treat attire and gear, like your boots, throbs, socks and tents with those repellants containing 0.5 percentage permethrin. That’s one-half of one percent.
Now, the permethrin actually remains a protector through various bathes, so you don’t have to repeat it for every outdoor undertaking, extremely if it’s on your tent and it’s raining. But do reapply when you should.
TOM: Now, you can also determine your own tick repellant. Essential oils are great for this. So all you need is 2 ounces of hag hazel or vodka, 1 ounce of water and 20 throws each of any three of the following lubricants: you can use geranium, lemon, eucalyptus, lavender, Virginia cedarwood and Alaskan cypress. You mix them up in a spraying bottle, shake well, then apply.
And we’ve went that terminated recipe on MoneyPit.com. Plus, we’ve got a list of plants that you can add around your home that will naturally repel ticks, like lavender, one of my favorites. Only search for “tick repellant” on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Craig in Rhode Island is on the line and he needs some assist with a lavatory makeover. What are you working on?
CRAIG: Well, actually, my second lavatory in my surmount, it’s kind of old. It has a Symmons ocean mixer- a shut-off valve. And actually, I’m looking to replace it. It’s cracked, it has some issues. But I can’t is behind the shower to open the wall up to change it because it’s actually contiguous to my first bathroom shower. It’s a fiberglass, one-piece pop-in.
My first study is take the position out, tile it. But then I "re going to have to" set a shower wash in. I’d have to do a lot more extra work and coin. And then I discover possibly cutting the hole bigger and they have bigger back plates. But I don’t want it to look awkward, as well, you are aware?
TOM: So which is what is wrong with the valve you have there now?
CRAIG: Well, consider, I don’t mull the desegregating valve- I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. But the plate on the shut-off valve, it’s cracked. I likewise have well water. I know it’s been taking a toll on the pipes. The home is 20 years old. I’m pretty sure it’s original to the home, as well. I’ve only owned it for about coming up on two years now and ...
TOM: So you basically are telling me that it’s a cosmetic article?
CRAIG: It is, it is. But I’m redoing the shower and I want to update the fixtures. And like I said, it’s kind of your ordinary accommodation, Symmons, very like a chrome- the kind of cheap, chrome finish.
TOM: Well, search, you have the most inconceivable situation because you have back-to-back plumbing walls. And typically, you design bathrooms so that one side of the wall’s a closet where you can go and tear out the back wall and then you can get to the valves. But in your bag, you’re damned if you do and you’re damned if you don’t, because you either have to take apart the fiberglass shower or you’ve got to take apart the shower that’s mostly coming you started here.
And I don’t really have a good solution for you. I was asking you about the already existing valves because I was just wondering if perhaps- sometimes, plumbers can rebuild all the working parts of that from the action side, from within, and maybe pick up some added faucets that will look like they’ll work in there. I wouldn’t go to the tear-out without at least exploring that.
I, for example, recently had a new shower valve that had to really be replaced. And it turned out that the valves were plastic- inside, some of the valve factors were plastic. The sets? And we sobbing them out and we removed and replaced with brass. And we were able to find those at a plumbing-supply store. And so I didn’t have to actually supplant the faucet.
CRAIG: My next step "il go to"- I’m going to go to a plumbing give and see if they just have an updated various kinds of- modernized Symmons where I could maintain that valve in and everything is kind of pieced together, as well.
TOM: Right. I think that’s a smart-alecky thing. What you want to do is make some characterizations of that and go talk to a knowledgeable person behind the bar and figure out what your options are.
CRAIG: Yeah, yeah. That’s my next stair and it’s not a- I guess I’ll be tiling a brand-new shower.
TOM: Yeah. If you can figure out a highway to make it passable, I think you should do that because you know what?
TOM: Nobody’s going to see that space and I’d hate to see you spend a few thousand bucks redoing it if all you’re trying to get is new valves.
CRAIG: That’s what I’m trying to stay away from. Well, thank you, guys, very much.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Hey, have you checked your spray heater lately? Well, doing so can help you eschewed water-heater difficulties. We’re going to explore that in today’s Pro Project, presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: On this beautiful summer weekend, what campaign are you working on? We’d have liked to hear about it. Give us a announce, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Allison in New York on the line who has an unwanted visitor at their money pit. What’s going on?
ALLISON: My husband- I please he was on with me- but our goal is to humanely capture we believe to be a squirrel that’s ranging between the decline ceiling in our basement. And my husband said, “Two-by-eight joint rafters.” There’s like a 2-inch seat exclusively and ...
TOM: What I require you to do is to go out and pick up a trap called a Havahart trap. Now, these Havahart captures are live catches in that they’re going to catch this squirrel. And then you’re going to pull this trap out and you can take them out to the woods somewhere and release them.
What you do with the Havahart trap is once you get it set up, in the back of the capture whatever it is you require this squirrel to kind of end up, kept an apple back there. And don’t only settled it back there but cable it to the back wall of the capture. Take a piece of depict wire, thread it through the apple and kind of tie it off. Because I’ll tell you what, although there is these captures are good, those squirrels and other small-scale imps can sometimes grab that without tripping the door. But if you wire it to the back of the capture, they don’t have a chance. And determined it near the opening, wherever you can get access to it.
And I’ll tell you, sooner or later, that squirrel is going to wander in that trap and bam, you’ll hear the door slap and they will not be happy. They’ll kind of be invited to participate in circles trying to figure out a highway to get out. But you can cover them with a blanket, prostrate them in the back of your automobile, in the case, and take it out somewhere. And then as you open that up, believe me, they’re not going to stand around to kind of talk about it with you; they’ll precisely bolt. As soon as you face-lift that door, they will bolt into the woods.
TOM: I hope that helps you out, Allison. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for christen us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, according to the experts at ENERGY STAR, sea heaters are the second highest energy user in the home. And expending a sea heater can expenditure a family of four 620 bucks yearly. Now, that is more than enough reason to keep an eye on how your water heater is performing. We’re going to have gratuities on how to do time that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
Now, first off, it’s important to know your water heater’s age. The median life cover of a spray heater is anywhere from 8 to 12 years. And regrettably, there’s no exam or telltale sign that a sea heater needs replacing, of course, aside from a major seep, which you want to avoid.
Now, if the irrigate seems less sizzling, although there is the temperature on your heater has not changed, it could be a sign of a breakdown. Other clues could include leakage around fittings and corrosion on the heater itself or any of the plumbing connections.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, sometimes, a sea heater is feasible to amended. But if it’s getting to that 8- to 10-year-old range, you might just want to hire a pro to oust the entirety group. And take advantage of the improved efficiency that newer liquid heaters can bring.
For example, a new ENERGY STAR-certified electric heat-pump water heater utilizes less than half the vigour of standard water-heater frameworks and can actually save a clas of four roughly $3,750 over its 13 -year life span. Plus, many utilities offer motivations for buying ENERGY STAR-certified spray heaters that are in a position reduce cost and increase savings even more.
TOM: Now, if your home usages natural gas or propane for hot water, another option to consider is tankless ocean heater. A tankless spray heater lasts around 20 years, which is much longer than a traditional container ocean heater. Plus, those tankless legions, well, they’re very small and they can actually be installed closer to the bathtub or the kitchen. That allows the hot water to reach those areas a lot more quickly without running the water needlessly as you wait for it to get warm.
And while they’re most expensive to buy and invest, tankless plans are super efficient and hot the water as you need it, uttering sure you never run out of red-hot water no matter how many adolescents live in the house.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your neighbourhood, equate prices, speak supported reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor stimulates it fast and easy to hire very good local pros.
LESLIE: John in Missouri, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JOHN: I have a pressure-treated wood I’ve use. And I applied it on- I’ve closed it with a solid-stain paint. And it seems that within- after two years, my timber, it are now starting to decomposed. It gets soft. I wanted to know: why is this happening? It’s pressure-treated wood.
TOM: When you stained it, first of all, did you do all sides of the board, includes the bottom rim of the slat? Because very often, that’s where humidity comes gathered in.
JOHN: I did the whole board and I assembled it. And it just seems like it braces the- like a sweat within it. And it was in, like I say, two years it’s - you can almost push on it. It’s soft or it starts rotting.
TOM: Yeah, I suspect that it’s- there’s different beds of pressure-treatment. But I suspect whatever was done to this was not done very well. You know, I had some terrain ties who reportedly pressure-treated. And within a marry of years, they were rotted apart. I stepped on them one day and exited right through it. So, I suspect that the quality of the lumber in this barricade wasn’t really whatever it is you expected it to do.
I’ve taken just plain fir barrier and I’ve analyse it with WOODLIFE and reached sure that the bottom of the barricade was up at least 2 to 3 inches over the grass, because otherwise it gets a lot of moisture that attracts up into it. And I’ve had barricades like that, that I analyse and then I worked a solid-color stain on, last 15 years.
Just because it’s pressure-treated or not well pressure-treated doesn’t mean it can’t last. But I think it’s a combination of the installation and then the management of the stain that was used initially.
JOHN: OK. Because, recognize, I have a boat pier and it’s over the water. And I simply articulated clear sealer over it and you know what? It previous longer than me sealing it with solid-stain paint.
TOM: And it comes down to the quality of the lumber itself. And whatever this fencing is made out of just is not comparable to what your dock’s made out of, John. Sorry to tell you that but I thinks that’s what’s going on. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
JOHN: OK. Well, thanks, and have yourself a great day.
LESLIE: Just ahead, do you are aware which entrance is the easiest entrance to break into for any house? Well, it’s the garage. We’re going to tell you why and share the surprisingly simple steps that you can take to secure that entry, next.
TOM: Where residence answers live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your sees, your questions, your DIY dilemmas at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a responsibility. Really use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project. That’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: And don’t forget, give us a call right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT. Plus, if you pass us a bellow now, you’re going to get the answer to your question, plus some really great implements to assist you get those projects done.
Up for grabs, this hour, we’ve got the Arrow T5 0AC Professional Electric Stapler and Nailer, plus the Arrow GT2 0DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun. These are two great implements from a company that’s been building concoctions for pros and do-it-yourselfers alike for 90 years.
This glue gun heats up fast and facets a drip-resistant adhesive gratuity so that you can control the adhesive move and truly get an accurate point of cement placement, which is so important because you don’t demand it on your paws. You crave it on your project. It’s came so many great features and it’s ideal for upholstery, woodworking, planes, even general home repair.
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TOM: Call we are currently with your residence betterment question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. You might just acquire both implements, plus a supplying of staples, claws and glue affixes. That entire parcel is worth 90 horses and going out to one caller drawn at random. The number, again, is 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Michael in Virginia is on the line and is working on a decking campaign. Tell us about it.
MICHAEL: Hey. So I’ve got a 12 x12 deck that came with the house. And it’s about 20 times old. Some cards are starting to peel up. And I know I’ll is the possibility of get a screw to stick in the sublayment( ph ). Am I able to sister the underlying boards with 2x4s or something to build up the base? Or am I better off replacing all of the substructure together with the deck?
TOM: So, if it’s 20 years old- and it sounds like it’s not pressure-treated- and if the existing floor joists have decomposed to the point where they won’t even braced a pin or a claw, I think it’s time to replace that floor, structure and all. Because your- the clock is clicking now and it’s going to be potentially awfully unsafe in a very short period of time.
So what I would tell you to do is to remove it, change it and be able to use composite for the decorate surface. You can use pressure-treated for the enclose but use composite for the flooring skin-deep. Between the composite and the pressure-treated, you’ll get more than another 20 years out of it.
Now, I’ve looked at composites and price-wise, they’re pretty pricey. Am I going to be able to save a few bucks by going to a heavier-duty, like a 2x6 kiln-dried board and sealing all that when it goes in?
TOM: Well, the thing is you don’t- well, I wouldn’t use 2x6. What I would use it 5/4x6 if you want to go with the timber decking. But you’re going to have to seal and stain that every couple of years. The thing with composites is all you’ve need to go to do is clean it. If you look at a big-box store, like a Home Depot, those composites are not seriously expensive and they look really good.
MICHAEL: Alright. I’ll have to check them out.
TOM: Because recollect, you’re not replacing the floor joists with it. You’re only doing the deck skin-deep. So if it’s 12 x12, it’s 144 square hoofs, it’s 288 lineal feet. It’s probably worth it.
MICHAEL: I determine. Now, we are thinking about expanding it another few paws, too.
TOM: Yeah. Well, that will be the time to do it, you are aware?
LESLIE: So you’re doing- the substructure is still all of the pressure-treated lumber, because you need that for the supporting and then all of the decking itself and the fascia boards- and you are able to even do the railings. All of that can be the composite. And it’s really gorgeous. I have one that’s kind of mid-range but it has an interesting grain to it and virtually looks like an ipe. You can get ones who the hell is super simple and you can get ones that really look strange. And I anticipate that’s where your price point is going to swing a lot.
MICHAEL: Now, how do you deal with the railings and the barricade it in?
LESLIE: So the two posts would come up and that would be the basis for your supports and that would be your pressure-treated lumber. And that would be built up through from the substructure. And then there are sleeves that go over it in the composite. Now, you can get ones that competition your decorate or you can go with white.
MICHAEL: And then for the substructure- now, I am talking about discolouring this out. There are these cement- I don’t know, they’re about a foot by a foot- blocks that you can buy that you can lay your 4x6 across for- they say it’s for decorate in the yard. Am I better off doing that or spewed concrete?
TOM: The authorities have prefabricated status for decks. They look sort of like pyramids but they’re not like 1x1. They’re like 1x1 by about 3 feet tall and they have a place for a bracket on top. I’d use those. They operate really well. They’re a little harder to install because you’ve got to be more accurate with where the hole is. But sincerely, I speculate the easiest thing to do is just to dig it yourself- a 1-foot by 1-foot square that’s a couple of feet depth- and mix up 3 or 4 bags of QUIKRETE and meet that the position. And then you can drop the pressure-treated claim into that. And then if you use the right stage of pressure-treated, it can actually be in-ground.
MICHAEL: Yeah, absolutely. Thanks a lot, Tom.
TOM: You’ve got it. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Do you know which entrance is the easiest doorway to break into for any house ? Well, it’s the garage.
TOM: We’ve got a tip to help you scaped becoming a victim of that kind of breaking and entering.
LESLIE: Yeah. If you’d like to protect your home from intruders, it’s really important that you marks vulnerable spheres around your mansion, like bury distinguishes that is a result of bushes or trees, as well as easy phases of entryway, specially if you’re going out of town.
For example, the garage door may be easier to open than you think. But you can secure it simply by installing a bolt through one of the additional faults in the garage-door tracks. Now, with the bar in place, that door is not "il be going" enabled to roll upwards and the door is going to be secure.
TOM: Now, for everyday exploit, you can integrate a smart-alecky garage-door controller. And that’s a great way to keep tabs on whether the door is opened or closed, from your smartphone. These controllers will not only alert you when the door is open or shut but they’ll even be borne in mind if you drive away and forgotten to close the garage entrance. And then it’ll allow you to open or close that doorway even from miles away.
So some immense options and a great door to make sure you hinder self-assured got to make sure your house abides safe.
LESLIE: Bill in Nevada is on the line with an LED-lighting question. What can we do for you?
BILL: I recently changed service standards, overhead, incandescent igniting fixture with an LED illuminate fixture. The station exited OK; everything directs. But when you turn on the light-colored, there’s a shelve. There’s about a second-and-a-half, maybe a two-second delay before the lightings actually is everything all right. Is that standard? What causes it? And more importantly, is there something I can do about it?
TOM: Yeah, I’ve seen that with some LED fixtures that I have and I never thought it was anything other than ordinary. Resulted bulbs themselves are pretty complicated when you look at all the circuitry. And I really presume that’s what it takes to bring the light up and maintain it at that stage. So I’ve never thoughts twice about that being an issue. But I could see how it might surprise you.
BILL: So you’ve realise it before?
TOM: Oh, yeah. I’ve clearly looked it before.
BILL: Alright. Well, that was the question. I revalue you taking it and "re giving me" a good, quick answer.
LESLIE: Hey, you already recycle but do you upcycle? We’re going to tell you how to step up to the next position of dark-green living, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
And "youre gonna" sung to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show presentation by HomeAdvisor.com. You never have to worry about overpaying for a occupation again. Exactly use their True Cost Guide to see what others have paid for similar projects. Then do matched with top-rated pros, predicted discuss, get repeats, diary appointments. It’s all online and it’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Alright. You can also post your question to The Money Pit’s Community sheet at MoneyPit.com. Greg did just that. He says, “I’m thinking about installing hardwired, integrated some detectors. Is it worth my while? And what should I know beforehand?”
Well, is it worth your while? I don’t know. You strategy on having a fire? I mean you just can’t decide that, Greg, so I’d say yeah, it’s worth your while.
First of all, just for those kinfolks that don’t know what an interconnected inhale detector is, you are aware, in the old days, smoke detectors were individualized. So if one set off, it was only that one unless the inhale fixed its highway to the rest of the house. With interconnected detectors, if a detector goes off, say, in the basement or in the garage or in the kitchen, all the detectors go off at the same time. And that’s important, especially if it happens in the middle of the night, because it gives you more time to get out.
The other thing that you might want to think about doing is adding not only interconnected detectors but those that have dual sensors built into them. That implies it responds to both flare ardors and ones that are slow and smoldering, this is why it covers both kinds of fire. And lastly, remember that a lot of the smart-alecky smoke detectors today, they can do all this without you having to actually race electricity to every single one, because that obliges them all certainly interconnected. And if there’s an area of the house where, perhaps, the authorities have really reverberated sleepers, you are able to even get talkers that work with these things to really elevate up the capacity so that you and your family can be totally safe.
LESLIE: And you know what? Just knowing that you have these in your home renders such a peace of mind. And you know you’re prepared and that’s truly what you’ve came to be- is preparation to keep your family safe.
TOM: Well, you might be a pro at household recycling but have you ever tried upcycling? If you’re not exactly sure what that is, Leslie has got the details and the ideas in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: That’s when you make your recycling bucket and you gave it on the top rack. No? I’m just kidding.
TOM: Haven’t you done entire dwelling pictures based on precisely the upcycling hypothesi: the intuition of meet material around the house and reusing it?
LESLIE: I mean for sure. It’s a matter of finding stuff around the house, knowing trash at thrift stores, experiencing material that’s being thrown away. There’s always a action to utilize something for something else or to time improve the use of something that you’ve once came. It actually does abbreviate squander, save money and it certainly can motivate innovative summertime projects for you and the whole family.
So, if you’re cleaning out the garage or vault, the storage shed, keep your eyes peeled for items that can be transformed into unique home accents. Now, a ignore piece of furniture can easily be upcycled into a ritzy lavatory accessory. An handsome, old-fashioned space can be converted into a table, mirror, message board. You’ve got to think out of the box with these things.
Now, if you need new storage for tools and other paraphernalium, scan online idea boards for inspiration. You may once have everything that you need to create smart organizers and exhibitions: an old-time shutter, an age-old segment of sud card that you wrap with fabric. Always reckon like, “Hmm. What’s this? Can I wrap it with something? Can I confine it with something? If I settled a holder in it, will that do something else?” All of these things can create something new. Something simple as a piece of molding with some grips or drawer drags becomes a jewelry organizer.
Very is easy to do these things. Remember, remember creatively and try to work those upcycling projects into your summer procedure and you’ll end up with some genuinely unique and personalized ensues. And then affix your results. Whatever you build, whatever it is, I want to see it. Post them on MoneyPit.com’s Community section. I want to know what you’re "workin on". And even if you’ve ascertained something and you think, “What can I do with this? ” send it to me. I want to help you.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, July is not a month you was intended to get stranded without air conditioner. If you know what to look for if yours starts acting up, though, there’s a really good chance the correct is an easy one. We’ll tell you what you need to know, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No parcel of this record or audio record may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Production, Inc .)
Many home foundations and walls develop non-structural cracks as they settle over time. These cracks can be unsightly and if not sealed can result in energy loss and moisture transmission. Sealing these non structural cracks in concrete is an easy project to complete for any skill level as with any concrete repair, proper attention to crack preparation is essential to achieving a successful result.
Using a chisel and hammer widen the crack to a minimum of one-quarter inch and breakaway any deteriorating concrete. The edges of the crack should be vertical or beveled in an inverted V. Then, remove any loose material with a brush. For vertical cracks less than one-half inch wide and for cosmetic repairs, the best option is to use a textured acrylic caulk.
QUIKRETE Textured Acrylic Concrete Repair Caulk is designed to match the color and texture of the concrete surface. Concrete Repair can be used on vertical or horizontal surfaces and dries to a firm, durable material. To apply concrete repair, simply cut the nozzle tip on an angle with a utility knife, to match the width of the crack and load the tube into a standard caulk gun.
Slowly draw the gun down the crack, forcing a bead of concrete repair caulk deep into the crack. Concrete Repair can be tooled with a trowel to match the concrete surface (texture), immediately after placement. Concrete Repair will begin to form a skin in about twenty to forty minutes and will harden completely in one to two hours depending on temperature, humidity and crack depth. QUIKRETE Concrete Repair is a water-based product and can be cleaned up easily with a damp cloth.
When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves. QUIKRETE Concrete Repair or QUIKRETE Self-Leveling Polyurethane Sealant may be used.
Step 1 Widen the crack using a chisel and hammer to a minimum of ¼ inch and break away any deteriorating concrete (the edges of the crack should be vertical or beveled in an inverted “v”).
NOTE: for vertical cracks less than 1/2-inch wide and for cosmetic repairs, the best option is to use a textured acrylic caulk.
Step 2 Remove loose material with a brush.
Option A: QUIKRETE Concrete Repair
Step 3a Cut the tip of the QUIKRETE Concrete Repair nozzle on an angle with a utility knife to match the width of the crack and load into a standard caulk gun.
Step 4a Slowly draw the gun down the crack, forcing a bead of Concrete Repair caulk deep into the crack.
TIP: Concrete Repair can be tooled with a trowel to match the surrounding surface immediately after placement. It will begin to form a skin in about 20 to 40 minutes and will harden completely in 1 to 2 hours.
Option B: QUIKRETE Self-Leveling Polyurethane Sealant Wear eye protection and waterproof gloves when working with polyurethane sealant.
Step 3b Cut the tip of the nozzle at an angle with a utility knife matching the width of the crack and insert the tube into a standard caulk gun.
NOTE: For cracks or joints over 1/2 inch, a Backer Rod should be placed in the crack before applying the sealant.
Step 4b Move the nozzle slowly along the length of the crack, allowing the sealant to settle.
TIP: this may require an additional application, which should be done immediately so that the two applications will mend into each other.
Step 5b Excess sealant should be cleaned up immediately with a commercial solvent or a citrus-based cleaner.
TIP: polyurethane sealants are temperature sensitive and should not be used when temperatures are below 50 degrees.Shopping List 10.oz QUIKRETE Concrete Repair (caulk) Or 10 oz QUIKRETE Polyurethane Concrete Crack Sealant Qt. QUIKRETE concrete and asphalt cleaner Wire brush Caulking gun Scrub brush Chisel Hammer Gloves Safety glasses
The post Repairing Cracks in Vertical Concrete Surfaces | Video appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on on this almost spring weekend? We can think ahead, can’t we? I mean come on, spring.
LESLIE: Oh, my gosh. Come on, spring.
TOM: We are ready for you to get here so that we can get outside and take on some of those projects, maybe spruce up the outdoor-living space. Or maybe we want to just throw open the windows and get some fresh air inside and do some painting and some kitchen makeovers and bathroom updates. Whatever is on your to-do list, we are here to help. But help yourself first: pick up the phone and give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s show, mixed-metal finishes. Now, that’s a technique that is breaking design rules now for kitchens: you know, having different metal finishes on faucets and hardware and countertops and appliances. We’re going to share why this trend will continue and how it’s making kitchens look a lot livelier.
LESLIE: And if you have a finished or unfinished basement or even a crawlspace, it’s always a challenge to keep that space dry. We’re going to walk you through the steps to stem that moisture.
TOM: And if you’ve found yourself stuck with a house that smells like smoke, we’re going to have tips to make that stink disappear.
LESLIE: And this hour, we’re giving away the Arrow PT Pneumatic Staple Gun and a supply of staples. Perfect for a huge variety of repair and décor projects, like outdoor-lattice work around the deck or carpeting stair treads or even being brave and upholstering furniture. It’s super easy, especially with a pneumatic staple gun.
It’s worth 50 bucks and it’s going out to one listener.
TOM: But first, your calls. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Hi, Roger from Pennsylvania. You’ve got Tom and Leslie from The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
ROGER: I was wondering – I live in a house. It was built in 1958. It was a model home. I have a crack in the ceiling and it’s hard plaster. I was wondering if there’s an epoxy or something I could shoot up in under that and push it up in before it falls down.
TOM: So, is the plaster separating from the plaster lath, which is between that and the framing?
ROGER: Yeah, just a little, wee bit. You can see the crack and you can see where it’s coming down just a little bit.
TOM: Just a little bit? Because, typically, Roger, what I would tell you to do in a situation like that is to not reglue the plaster but simply pull it down all the way and then replaster it, then prime it and paint it.
You could possibly squeeze something like LIQUID NAILS in there but then you’d have to support it while it was drying. But then it’s just going to break somewhere else. So if you’ve got an area of loose plaster like that, I would just tell you to just gently break it out of there and then simply respackle that, sand it nicely, then prime it and paint the whole surface. I think it’s a much more permanent and cleaner repair in the long run.
ROGER: That’s what I was wondering. I can do drywall but I never did hard plaster.
TOM: Yeah, it’s not that hard to do. If you can handle spackle, you can handle plaster. Remember, a little bit goes a long way. You’re better off putting it on in thin coats, then putting successive coats on top of that.
And by the way, a house built in 1958, that was a very good year for home construction. You’ve probably got excellent Douglas-pine framing in that home. You probably have hardwood floors, copper pipes. That was a great year for construction. If you’ve got plaster-lath walls and ceilings, you already know they’re very hard and very durable. Yeah, they crack once in a while but you can feel good about the structure of that home.
ROGER: Yeah. Yeah, we do have hardwood floors. We’re actually redoing them a little bit at a time and it is all copper.
TOM: Yeah, the nice thing about those houses that were built in the late 50s and early 60s is people put in these beautiful hardwood floors and they promptly covered them with wall-to-wall carpet. So, for the next 20 or 30 years, they were protected from any wear and tear.
ROGER: Yeah, that’s what happened in here. We’re tearing it up room by room.
TOM: Alright, Roger. Well, good luck with that project. It sounds like a great house.
ROGER: Thank you very much for your help.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Melanie in California on the line with a decorating question. What can we do for you today?
MELANIE: I have untreated (inaudible) knotty pine throughout the house. I would like to continue into an 8×12 bathroom with the same. Is this the best application for the bathroom or will untreated wood hold up to condensation?
LESLIE: Now, where are you seeing this? On the walls? On the ceiling?
MELANIE: Oh, well, I’d like to do the whole bathroom. Yes, walls and ceiling.
TOM: I would say, Leslie, that knotty – untreated, knotty pine is a really bad idea for a bathroom.
TOM: I actually do have a bathroom that’s got pine wainscoting but it’s completely sealed. And it goes up about halfway up the wall. I would definitely not put unfinished wood in a bathroom because it’s going to soak up the moisture. It’s going to grow mold or mildew and just is not going to look right. You can’t clean it, either. So, a bad idea for the ceiling.
That said, if you like the look of wood, there are many ceiling-tile products that do look quite a lot like wood.
MELANIE: OK. We’re limited. We’re in a small area, so we’re limited as far as hardwares go and paneling. We’ve checked out our local hardware stores. And where’s the best place to find, oh, say, ceiling paneling and …?
LESLIE: Well, now, a clever, creative idea – which, you know, you might be able to source online and perhaps you haven’t looked at some of this in the local places to you – would be a laminate flooring that’s a plank that looks like a knotty pine so that we could utilize that in the same application that you’re talking about. But it’s made to withstand high-moisture situations because it’s a manufactured product and not a natural product.
MELANIE: Sure, sure.
LESLIE: And that, because it’s sold in planks, if you do have to order it online or if somebody has to order it from the vendor directly through your local stores, it ships really easily because of its packaging. And being plank size, you’re not going to have a hard time getting it in, rather than a sheet product.
MELANIE: Oh, OK. Very good. And I think that would look far better than a sheet product. We just – I think that’s why I don’t care – the wainscoting or coating, how do you pronounce that?
LESLIE: Oh, absolutely.
MELANIE: Is that …?
LESLIE: I say wainscoting but I think everybody says it every way they feel like. Tomato, tomato.
MELANIE: OK. It’s just very attractive. But we need to do this complete, up the walls.
TOM: You don’t have to. You could go partially up the walls and then trim off the top edge of it.
MELANIE: Hmm. And then would – OK.
TOM: It depends on what look you’re going for. For example, Leslie, you’ve often given the suggestion that you can take an old door, turn it on its side and that could be a wainscoting.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. That works out beautifully, especially because it gives you the paneling sort of built right into the door. The only issue there is that anywhere you’ve got an electrical outlet or something that might protrude from the wall, you’re going to have to bump that out to accommodate the extra thickness of the door. Not a big deal but it’s an extra step.
MELANIE: Boy, it sure is. Oh, boy. OK. Well, thank you so much. That’s a lot to think about and I really like that plank-flooring idea. That was a thought that never even crossed my mind, so – nor my husband’s.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck with that project.
MELANIE: Thank you so much. And thank you for taking my call.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: David in Arkansas, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
DAVID: I have a native stone-based fireplace, I guess, with a cinder-block core. And it’s, thankfully, on the outside of the house. However, the roof line continues so that it covers our carport. And if it rains, oh, substantially, after a bit it begins to get a little ripplage (ph) of water that drains on the outside of the stone, into the carport. So, it’s a bit puzzling. We use – we tried to reface the flashing with just black tar and that sort of thing. But still seems to leak a bit when there’s substantial rain.
TOM: So, I’m having trouble imagining the layout here but is this a situation where you have water from the roof that’s running down towards the chimney?
TOM: And does the chimney have a cricket? Do you know what a cricket is? It’s like sort of a peaked piece of flashing that diverts the water around it.
DAVID: It does have a flashing that runs around it. That’s correct.
TOM: OK. Well, a cricket is not just the flashing. A chimney cricket is like a modification of the roof plane, where it pitches upwards so that the water doesn’t actually strike the back of the chimney. It goes around the chimney.
DAVID: Oh, no, no. It’s a consistent roofline sloping downward.
TOM: So, one thing that you could do is you could put a piece of flashing on the roof to intercept the runoff from the roof that’s heading towards the chimney and sort of divert it around it. And that kind of sort of diverter move will reduce the volume of water that’s striking the chimney. And that can help minimize the problem.
Now, in terms of the flashing repair itself, you mentioned tar. It’s probably the worst thing you could put on a chimney and I know that folks do it all the time. But the right way to do it, if you have a flashing leak, is to replace the flashing. And flashing is always installed in two pieces. You have a base flashing that goes under the roof shingles and against the chimney. And you have a counterflashing that goes in the chimney mortar joints and then down on top of the base flashing. And it’s done that way so it can expand and contract with the movement, because the chimney’s going to move differently than the roof. The tar might give you a temporary seal but eventually, it’s just going to crack.
So I would recommend you install a diverter, try to move some of the water around the chimney. And if it continues, do a better job repairing the flashing in the chimney, because it shouldn’t happen.
DAVID: OK. Will do. I appreciate it so much. Enjoy your show.
TOM: Well, thank you so much. We appreciate your call, David.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Hey, are you ready to spruce up your home for spring? Well, we are ready to help. Give us a call now at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where you can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and book appointments online, for free.
TOM: Still ahead, mixed-metal finishes is a trend that’s breaking design rules for kitchens. We’ll share how this one project can infuse energy into your kitchen design, next.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What’s on your to-do list? Give us a call right now. We’ll give you a hand, whether you’re planning a project or stuck in the middle. The number is 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Just go to HomeAdvisor.com.
And if you’re a DIYer, we’ve got a great tool to give away this hour that’ll come in pretty handy. It’s from our friends at Arrow Fastener. It’s the Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun and a supply of staples.
And there are lots of things you can do with the Arrow PT50 Staple Gun, including repairing lattice around your deck. That’s one of the many projects featured on ArrowFastener.com. Just click on Projects. You’ll get all the step-by-step tips and advice you need to get that project done.
And this tool delivers serious pneumatic performance at a price everyone will love. It’s packed with features like an easy-load magazine, over-molded comfort grip, adjustable exhaust cover and contact safety. It’s got the power and the versatility to take on any home project.
Going out to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. The prize package is worth 50 bucks and the number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Angela in Missouri, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
ANGELA: I am purchasing a beautiful 1940s home. It’s two stories with a basement and I was just wondering you guys’ thoughts on the second floor. Basically, there’s a very tiny staircase that goes up to the second floor and I’m worried about if there was a fire, something that blocked the stairway. Are there products out there that you can purchase – well, yeah, I don’t know, a roll-down ladder or some kind of alarm or something? What do you guys know about that?
TOM: Sure. There’s all sorts of things. In terms of egress, if you have just the staircase and you want another option, you could always get a ladder that – it’s like a chain ladder that hooks over the window and you drop it down the outside wall of your house. Problem with those, though, is that in – from a practical matter, in a fire you have black smoke filling the house. It’s really hard to find that ladder and set it up.
LESLIE: Some of them are actually built into window-box units that look like a decorative window box that you can attach to the exterior of your home. And it would be right outside of the window. But then again, that’s not really ideal if it’s a kid’s room.
ANGELA: Right, right. Yeah. And that’s – it’s just me and two kids and we all have our own room, so …
TOM: So I would make sure that you have a good-quality smoke-alarm system. You know, if you can afford to use one that’s centrally monitored, I think that’s best because now you know the system – the home is being monitored 24/7. And you could add carbon-monoxide protection to that and even flood protection to that and temperature protection to that all in the same system.
ANGELA: Is there some kind of system that – I don’t want to have to hard-wire it in the house. But is there a system that maybe uses Bluetooth or some things that have to talk to each other?
TOM: Yes. If you have hardwired smoke detectors now – so if you have a detector that’s already wired – not battery-powered but hardwired – you can replace that with a Nest Protect. And the Nest is the brand, Protect is the detector. And the Nest Protect is a combination dual-technology smoke detector, so it works for both with a photoelectric sensor and an ionization sensor, which basically means it’ll detect smoldering fires and flash fires but it also protects you against carbon monoxide.
Now, what I like about this system is if you also install it with the Nest Thermostat, if either of those things were to happen – if you had a fire or you had a carbon-monoxide alert – it will actually turn the thermostat off, which is important. Because if it’s carbon monoxide, the most likely source in the home is the furnace or the boiler, depending on what kind of system you have. And if you have a fire, running that furnace during the fire helps to spread the smoke.
You definitely can install it yourself. It’s not difficult. Nest provides great instruction on how to do that. In fact, I just replaced – I have a centrally monitored system in my house but I decided – we also had, sort of as a redundant system, two hardwired detectors: one on the first floor, one on the second floor. I’ve just replaced those with the Nest Protect. And I’m really happy with it. I think it’s a really good system and just gives me some added peace of mind.
ANGELA: OK. Well, thank you so much. That’s a great idea. I think that’s the way I’m going to go.
TOM: Well, if you’re considering an updated look for your kitchen, mixed metals is one trend you might want to try. It’s a modern look that really shuns that sort of matchy-matchy styles that were so popular in the past, where everything had to be the same.
LESLIE: Yeah. Maybe you’ve heard that design rule that says the finishes of your appliances should match the finishes of your plumbing fixtures, hardware and lighting. Well, not anymore.
TOM: Yeah, that’s right. The mixed-metals trend is going to really add a layer of interest and dimension to the room. You can combine silver and gold or chrome and brass or add that beautiful, oil-rubbed bronze finish to existing fixtures. And all in all, it’s going to make your kitchen look a lot livelier.
LESLIE: And if you’re wondering if that mixed-metals trend is going to work in your home, the good news is it’s going to. I mean it’s a look that can be a universal trend. It’s going to work with pretty much any color palette and style. All types of homes – including transitional, rustic, even contemporary – can benefit from mixed metals. It doesn’t have to be a huge variety of mixtures of the metal. But a good mix, good tones, even adding in a mercury glass, so many ways that you can make this new trend really work for you. And it’s lovely.
TOM: Check out all the design trends, including a gallery showing that mixed-metals look, on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Jim in Washington is on the line with a water-in-the-crawlspace situation. What’s going on?
JIM: Well, we live on the West Coast and like most of the homes out here that are less than 40 years old, we have a crawlspace instead of a basement.
JIM: And in December, we had record rains – the most ever – and we discovered, by chance, that we had about 3 or 4 inches of water in our crawlspace.
JIM: The dirt floor is covered with plastic. It’s about 1,500 square foot of area, so that was a considerable amount of water.
TOM: Has that drained out?
JIM: Well, we rented a pump and I pumped for a couple of days and then I used my shop vac and took out 5 gallons of water at a time. And yes, it is all out now.
TOM: And we don’t want it to come back, right?
JIM: Well, not only that but I just don’t know what to do to make sure there was no further damage.
TOM: Alright. Well, I have fantastic news for you. It’s so great that your crawlspace flooded after a heavy rainfall, because that tells me that the solution involves your gutters and your grading.
This is not a rising water-table situation. This is a scenario where you have to reduce the amount of water that’s collecting at the foundation perimeter. And usually, that happens because the gutters become clogged and overflow and dump all their water right at the foundation perimeter. Or the downspouts are not extended far enough away and dump water right near the corner of the foundation. Or the grading around the house is too flat or in some cases, even sloped backwards into the house so that the water never has a chance to run away. So when you have a lot of rain and that results in a flood in a crawlspace or a basement, that is always, always, always the cause. So the solution is just to reverse all that.
Now, in terms of damage, if the water was only in there for a short period of time – a week or two and you got it pumped out – I don’t think there’ll be any ongoing issues. If these spaces stay wet for a really long time, you can get increased decay or insect activity. But an occasional flood like that is not likely to have any effect on the house. More important that you make sure it doesn’t happen again by trying to address whatever drainage deficiencies you find.
JIM: Fantastic. Well, that is what I will start doing then. I’ll see what I can find. Thank you. Appreciate it.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project, Jim. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, if you’ve got a finished or even an unfinished basement or perhaps a crawlspace, you know that it’s always a challenge to keep that space dry and healthy. Well, we’re going to share some info on a product that can help you do just that, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, as we continue to make our homes more and more energy-efficient, we may very well also be trapping unhealthy air inside with us. In fact, the EPA reports that the air inside the homes can be five times more polluted than the air outside.
TOM: And that’s why now is a great time to look at ways we can continue to enjoy energy efficiency while breathing easier at the same time. With us to talk about that is Erika Lacroix, President of E•Z Breathe Ventilation Systems.
ERIKA: Hello. Thank you.
TOM: So, it seems kind of counterintuitive that we put all this effort, you know, into making our homes tighter and more efficient. But I guess you can go overboard with that and make them unhealthy at the same time. So, how do you strike a balance?
ERIKA: Well, that’s exactly it. A balance is what’s needed. Unfortunately, for the last maybe 30, 40 years, we’ve been on this quest of greater and greater energy efficiency, which is wonderful. Less energy costs, more energy efficiency. But what we’re missing is the balance part of it. We need to address what’s going on inside the house and add ventilation. We need to start talking about the indoor-air quality and how buttoning up the homes may be great for our energy costs but it’s actually detrimental to the indoor-air quality.
LESLIE: And I think to your point of keeping the homes airtight, now we’re also bringing things in: we’re bringing in new furniture, we’re bringing in flooring products, we’re bring in materials. And some of those are made from chemicals that aren’t really the best for us and they’re off-gassing in the process of getting acclimated to your house. And if you’re not turning over the air in the house on a regular basis, you’re just being trapped with all of those not-so-great things.
ERIKA: You said it. That’s exactly it. We’re getting trapped inside these very tight building envelopes and we’re not allowing that toxic off-gassing of chemicals. There’s no place for it to go; there’s no path of escape. So, oftentimes they concentrate to a very, very unhealthy level. It’s just not good air that we’re breathing.
TOM: So, it’d be rather simple to open a window but that’s going to not do too much for our energy efficiency. So, how do you bring in fresh air without driving up your energy costs at the same time?
ERIKA: Well, just like you said, we’re opening windows, we’re opening doors just in our everyday living. But unfortunately, we’re not getting anything out of the house. As we open doors and we open windows, our house sucks air in. So we’re not getting air out.
So what we really need to do is we need to start exhausting the air. We have exhaust fans in our kitchens, where we produce pollutants, right? We have steam, we have cooking odors, we have fans. We have fans in our bathrooms where, again, we’re producing moisture, we’re producing contaminants. So we have spot-ventilation in these places in our homes. But one of the largest contributors to poor indoor-air quality is in our foundation: our basements, our crawlspaces. Through the stack effect, that air rises up. So we start breathing basement and crawlspace air.
So, at E•Z Breathe, we source the exhaust ventilation in the foundation: in the basement and in the crawlspace. So we create air exchanges from that level.
TOM: So when you say you source the air down there, so you mean that you are exhausting to those spaces?
ERIKA: No, we are exhausting the air that resides in those spaces.
TOM: Oh, OK.
ERIKA: And by doing that, we create a very slight draw that brings the air from the upper levels down into those foundation spaces, like a basement space or a crawlspace space, and we protect the living environment from that bad air that typically lives in basements from rising up, threatening the good air upstairs.
TOM: So, is what you’re saying is that you’re slightly depressurizing those lower spaces – the basements and the crawlspaces – and then that’s being replenished with air that’s being replaced from the upper sections of the house. Is that about right?
ERIKA: You got it. That’s exactly it.
TOM: OK. Got it.
ERIKA: So it’s exhaust and replenishing, yep.
TOM: That’s really interesting. And so I guess by doing so, you’re doing it in a controlled way where you’re not really wasting heated air but you’re giving the house an opportunity to kind of refresh itself in the process?
ERIKA: Absolutely. We have a variable fan speed, so people can determine how quickly they want the air to move. And it’s governed by a humidistat. So when the dry, clean air is sent, E•Z Breathe will cycle off.
But what you’ll find is your home loses six times more energy and heat through the roof and through the walls, through the natural stack effect, than what E•Z Breathe could ever exhaust. E•Z Breathe is a gentle draw.
TOM: We’re talking to Erika Lacroix – she’s the president of E•Z Breathe – about how to make our homes better ventilated so that we can enjoy healthy living.
LESLIE: Erika, are you finding that now that people have installed the E•Z Breathe and they’re getting more air circulation in the house, what are some of the benefits that they’re noticing? Are you testing to see what these new results are?
ERIKA: Oh, absolutely, Leslie. We’ve been testing this for over a decade now. And what we find time and time again is not only do people report that they have less odors, they have less humidity levels, they notice that their air feels lighter and fresher. But our scientific testing has proven that the indoor-particulate count, which is really just a fancy word for everything that you see floating in the air – anything you might find through a sunlight ray that comes through the window and you see all those little floaties? Those are technically particulates.
And E•Z Breathe will reduce the overall particulate count in a home by up to 85 percent. So that is a much improved indoor-air quality. And people find they don’t sneeze as much, they don’t cough as much because there’s not so much stuff in the air that’s irritating their respiratory tract. So they feel better.
TOM: That makes a lot of sense.
Erika Lacroix, the president of E•Z Breathe, thank you so much for being a part of The Money Pit.
If you’d like to learn more about E•Z Breathe, head on over to their website. That’s EZBreathe.com – E-Z-B-r-e-a-t-h-e.com.
ERIKA: Thank you so much.
LESLIE: You know, there are few things more disgusting than to have to clean up a house or apartment that’s been saturated to the core with cigarette or tobacco-smoke smell. If you’ve ever spent time around a smoker, you know that that odor lingers long after they leave the room. We’re going to discuss ways to clean up those odors, when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Call us now on The Money Pit’s listener line with your home improvement question at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
LESLIE: You can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your area, read verified reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor makes it fast and easy to hire the best local pros.
And if you do pick up the phone and call us, right now, you might just win the Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun and a supply of staples. That package is worth 50 bucks. Lots of things you can do with that very fun tool, including repairing deck lattice. You can find the step-by-step instructions at ArrowFastener.com. Just click on Projects. You’ll get everything you need to get that project done.
That package is worth 50 bucks. Going out to one caller. It’s only going to be you if you pick up the phone, though, and call us with your home improvement question at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hugo in Missouri, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
HUGO: I’m redoing my kitchen and bathroom. And I’m wondering what you would recommend for flooring it. I’ve got carpet in it now and I sincerely dislike the carpet. And I want to put something else in and would you recommend a composite material or vinyl or linoleum or what?
TOM: Well, I can’t think of two rooms that are worse for carpeting than kitchens and bathrooms.
HUGO: I know. Tell me about it. I bought the house seven years ago and it had that in it, so …
TOM: Yeah. Bad décor choice but I think you can do a lot better. I think one thing that you might want to take a look at is laminate flooring, because laminate flooring can come in a wide range of designs. It can look like tile, it can look like stone or it could look like wood. And it’s really durable when it comes to moist/damp places.
HUGO: What about – will a stove and refrigerator leave dents in it?
TOM: I’ve had laminate flooring down in my kitchen for 10 years and we pull the refrigerator out whenever it’s necessary. I never worry about it.
HUGO: Well, I appreciate the information. I thank you and I’ll look into it.
TOM: Alright, Hugo. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, for homes or apartments where smokers lived, that nasty odor can stay for years. And the reason is simple: that smoke, it gets everywhere from deep in the carpet to furniture and window coverings. It can hang in the air, it can stick to walls and ceilings and floors, it can stick to kitchen cabinets. It even gets trapped deep inside heating ducts where it can spread throughout your entire house.
So, if you’ve found yourself stuck with a smelly home to live in or to rent or to sell, there is a way to remove that stink and actually clear the air. It’s not easy but it can happen.
LESLIE: Now, the first step to the deep-cleaning process is to understand what exactly you’re dealing with. Now, when cigarette smoke floats into the air, it spreads out and it sticks to whatever it touches. And I mean everything. Now, what doesn’t stick to surfaces, walls and the ceiling will eventually settle back down onto the floor and into the carpet.
Now, these particles are then ground in with your feet when you walk. If you’ve got light-colored surfaces, the patina of a cigarette residue is faintly yellow. And it grows more intensely yellow with layers and time.
TOM: Now that you know what you’re dealing with, you want to be prepared to blast that tobacco smoke smell and yellow residue from virtually every surface and material in the home. The best way to do this is to work from top to bottom on all furniture, on the countertops, the cabinetry.
You want to mix up a solution of TSP. That’s trisodium phosphate. It’s sort of a soapy cleaner. You’ll find it in hardware stores or in the paint aisles of your favorite home center. And you want to use a combination of moist paper towels and soapy sponges to get every hard or smooth surface in the house. Be sure to change those towels out frequently so you don’t end up spreading the smoky residue around. You want to get into the corners, the undersides and especially the upper areas where the smoke does tend to linger.
LESLIE: Now, another way to get to those hard-to-reach places is by using a sponge mop. Now, you want to get a brand-new one that’s never scrubbed a floor. And get it damp with that soapy TSP water and then scrub away. But you have to make sure that you rinse it frequently and change that soapy water often.
TOM: Now, with clean surfaces, your home will finally be rid of that tobacco-smoke smell and ready to house a non-smoking family. But whether the effort has been for your health or happiness after you quit or simply found yourself in charge of a nicotine-tinged house, with a complete and thorough deep clean like this, even a home that’s been smoked in for decades can be restored to almost hypoallergenic perfection. And that’s exactly how you clear the air.
888-666-3974. Would you like us to clear a home improvement project off your to-do list? Give us a call right now.
LESLIE: Mary in North Carolina is on the line with a mossy roof. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
MARY: Well, we have a 10-year-old roof – asphalt shingles, I believe they are – and the sections between shingles are beginning to be filled up with moss.
LESLIE: It’s like a mossy grout line.
MARY: Yeah, that’s right. I’d like to know how to get it safely clean and keep it from growing back again. It isn’t the entire roof. We are in an A-frame house, so it’s very sharp, very steep roof. And it’s just about the 8 or 10 feet closest to the edge.
LESLIE: OK. Do you see it all the way around or do you just see it on, say, the north-facing side or in the area …?
MARY: It’s just on this north-facing part.
LESLIE: OK. So that’s the area that gets the least amount of sunlight.
LESLIE: Do you have a large tree that’s adding more shade to this area?
MARY: We have a lot of trees, yeah.
LESLIE: A lot of trees.
TOM: Yeah, therein lies the problem.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, the best solution here is – can you trim out or thin out those trees in any way to get more sunlight onto that portion of the roof? Because if you can do that, sunlight really is your best weapon in getting rid of this moss and keeping it away. Now, you’ll have to do some work to get it to be gone in the first place but if you can add more sunlight, you’re going to help it stay away.
MARY: Alright. Very good. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Still ahead, reclaimed furniture can be a great way to save money and the environment. But you have to take one extra step to make sure that old furniture is safe. We’re going to tell you what you need to know, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Call in your home repair or your home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: And while you are online, you might want to swing by The Money Pit’s Community page and post your home improvement question. Michael did just that.
He’s got an interesting question, Leslie. He says, “I live in a townhouse with a steel I-beam that runs through the basement, through all the houses in my row. The I-beam seems to carry a lot of noise. When I’m in the basement, I can hear the conversations that my neighbors two doors down are having. How can I insulate the I-beam so that the sounds don’t travel so much?”
You know, he’s connecting the dots here thinking that that I-beam is like a big, fat telephone wire that’s moving that sound down. But I think it’s unlikely that the I-beam is actually doing that transmission. The problem is more likely traced to the way those walls were constructed, including the possibility of openings that are right around that I-beam, as well as lights and outlets and switches that are just too large. Because we know from experience that when you try to quiet a room, you have to seal up all of those gaps.
And there are a couple of ways to do that. One option is to insulate and to include the joints and the – where the I-beam goes through. And you want to add a second layer of drywall across that surface and use a material called Green Glue that provides sound resistance between the boards.
Or another option is to actually pick up and install what’s known as “sound-resistant drywall.” There’s one called QuietRock and there are others. You basically put it over the existing drywall and you have to pay extra attention to outlets and lights and switches. There’s actually a special soundproofing material – it’s kind of like a putty – that needs to go behind them. And it requires you to unwire those outlets and switches, pull the box out and put this clay-like stuff behind it.
So it’s a big project but it’s the only way you’re going to truly be able to quiet that noise that you’re hearing in the basement space.
LESLIE: I mean there’s even a quiet adhesive that you put in between the two sheets of drywall. It’s a process to make rooms really, really quiet. So you’ve got to want to do it.
TOM: Well, upcycling is a great way to redecorate. There are many vintage pieces just waiting for that right touch. And you know the saying: one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. But you need to be careful about reusing those older items, especially when it comes to kids’ rooms. Leslie tells you why, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: That’s right. If you do decide to do a little garage- or even estate-saling (ph) to save some cash, you do want to be careful about which vintage pieces you choose for your child’s room.
Now, first of all, you want to make sure that you don’t get anything with old chipping or potentially lead-based paint. And you can kind of tell from the finish and the layers of paint on it if it’s something that’s worth trying to strip or maybe you should just stay away from. Because you really don’t want to get into a big project, especially when you’re not sure what that finish is. And you don’t want to release any chemicals into the air that could be harmful or chips that the child could eat and be even more harmful.
Now, you also want to make sure that you stay away from furniture with out-of-date latches and hardware. I’m talking about chests and cribs. Any crib with a drop-down side, that is just not even happening anymore. So go ahead and check out the Consumer Products Safety Commission, which is CPSC.gov. You’ll find a list there of recalled items and that’s going to help you really make good decisions about what you can and cannot purchase when you’re at these sales.
You don’t want to be afraid of salvaging old pieces. It’s going to be great for you, it’s going to be great for the environment. You’ll be able to show your creativity. You just have to be cautious about the pieces you do bring in. Make sure you’re keeping everybody safe.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, do you want a pop of color to greet friends and family at your front door? Well, you can enhance that front entrance with the right flowers and plantings and create a very colorful, new welcome. We’ll have tips on how to take on that project, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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(Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)