TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a announcement, right now, because we are here to help you with your residence improvement and decor assignments. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Whether you’re starting a project, in the middle of a project or precisely don’t know how to get to the end of the project, we’re here to help, 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s appearance, as pathetic as it may be, it’s almost is necessary to put away outdoor furniture for the season. To facilitate make sure it endures the off-season mold-free, we’re going to have some tips on how to best clean and store that furniture so it’s "re ready for" a fresh start come spring.
LESLIE: And if you exactly can’t get the lush, green lawn of your dreams, here’s some good news: grass is not the only option for exiting light-green. We’re going to have some tips for choosing and planting the best alternative groundcover for your outdoor space.
TOM: And have you ever opened an electric bill and been totally shocked? I intend you’re visualizing, “How can this possibly be and where’s all that juice disappearing? ” We’re going to share some tips on a new product that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re using your electricity and how to use a lot less of it.
LESLIE: But first, this show is about helping you with your own home decor and improvement questions. So, call in your dwelling betterment question, right now, and you’ll get the answer. Plus, today you’ll too given the chance at acquiring tools to help you get the job done.
We’re featuring the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar-Clamp Package worth 80 bucks.
TOM: Those can come in super handy for lots of home improvement projects. So call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Helen in Indiana is on the line with a driveway-sealing question. How can we help you today?
HELEN: I have an asphalt driveway that when I obtained the dwelling had some crannies in it. But it’s gotten worse and I now have a pothole.
TOM: And it’s officially grown to be a pothole, huh?
HELEN: Yeah. That’s what happens in the Midwest.
HELEN: I’ve had some thinks and they’re way out of my plan. So what can I do to prolong the life and make it gaze a little better?
TOM: So, there’s lots of stuff that you can do yourself.
First of all, you are required to patch that hole. And at your neighbourhood home core, you can find blacktop patch. It comes in a bucket- either a small, 1-gallon pail or something even as big as a 5-gallon pail- where it has some stone in it and it has the blacktop textile. And it’s usually latex-based these days, extremely, which is good news.
And you simply clean out the hole that you’re trying to fill, you trowel in the new stuff, you tamp it down. And you can do that with a board or something like that or- if you don’t happen to have a tamping iron.
And then previously you have the holes crowded, then you want to work on the cracks. And as far as the crannies are concerned, the driveway sealers and crack fillers, there are some that came to see you actually caulking-like tubes that you can use to sort of roll into those cracks.
So you seal those all up and then the last thing you do is to apply the asphalt sealer. And that comes in 5-gallon buckets and you buy an application tool for it. It’s kind of like a big squeegee. You start at one end and you squeegee it on, run down towards the other and you’re done.
So it’s totally a do-it-yourself project. The best time to do this is when the brave gets to be around 50 severities or so, on average. You don’t want to do it when it’s very hot out, because it’s a difficult job and ...
HELEN: Like now.
TOM: Yeah, like now. And it doesn’t dry that well. So you wait for somewhat cool weather and you can totally reseal that yourself. And then formerly you get all the cracks crowded and the sealer on, then next year perhaps you really do another coat of sealer and it’ll be really easy.
HELEN: So it’s a three-step process.
TOM: Pretty much. Patch the holes, spot the cracks, apply the sealer. That’s it.
HELEN: I think that’s something I can do.
TOM: You can. Good luck with that job. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got Ward from Utica on the line. What’s going on at your money pit?
WARD: Well, I’ve got a roof I’m replacing. The current ceiling has two beds of shingles on it and I want to rip those shingles off and turn in a metal roof.
WARD: However, I got thinking about the underlayment, which I had spray-foamed in the loft about three years ago. And I’m concerned that if I have to repair or pull up the underlayment, I’m going to ruin all my insulation.
TOM: OK. So you have - you did a spray-foam insulation treatment three years ago.
TOM: And the spraying foam was scattered to the underside of the ceiling sheathing. Is that correct?
WARD: That’s right.
TOM: OK. And at that time, did you happen to notice any deteriorated ceiling sheathing? Because you would see it from within of the attic before you’d see it from the outside of the attic. Did you notice anything that was black, rotten, delaminated, hanging down some specks? Anything like that?
WARD: No, no, not really. And I didn’t glance closely myself but the people who did the job did not report anything like that.
TOM: I’d is of the view that the the possibility of you having delaminated sheathing at this stage is probably reasonably small. I do understand your concern that if you attract the shingles off and you find out you have bad sheathing and you have to take it off, you are able to spoil the insulation that’s now sprayed and is stuck to the underside of that.
So, if that was the contingency, I would tell you to resheathe that part of the roof, so whatever half or division or plateau of that ceiling it is. And you could use 1/2-inch sheathing or maybe even 3/8 depending on the condition. But I suppose it’s going to be fine.
And also, once you scattered that spray-foam insulation at the underside of the attic, if they did it right they would have blocked all your ventilates, because it’s no longer necessary to expres an attic that has been closed with spray-foam insulation. Because that attic now becomes a conditioned gap. And therefore, you get a lot less sweat up there.
WARD: Ah, now that’s interesting because I did not know that.
TOM: Yeah. You’re not supposed to have any openings in an attic that has been spray-foamed because that whole range is now, virtually, part of the interior seat of your house.
WARD: Right, right.
TOM: So if you had roof vents or you had ridge vents or gable ducts, they should have been closed up and foamed over.
WARD: I will double-check that but that actually forms the whole thing easier then.
TOM: Yeah, I don’t think you have anything to worry about with the sheathing. And it’s a smart-alecky progress to taken away from both strata and to put on metal roofing, because you’re in Upstate New York. I’m sure you get a ton of snow. And it’s really going to stand up much better.
Make sure they articulated the blizzard sentries, though, at the ceiling advantage because that snow is very heavy where reference is falls off. And you don’t want it to hurt anybody down below.
WARD: Absolutely. I’m planning on doing that.
TOM: Alright, Ward. Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve go Kathy in Minnesota on the line who is doing a kitchen-revamping project. Tell us what’s going on.
KATHY: These cabinets are varnished and they had hinges on that were on the outside, so they’re kind of like the barn-look( ph) hinge and too the manipulates, the ends that were anchored. When we make those off, the grove under there is much, much lighter.
TOM: Right. Mm-hmm.
KATHY: And so we divested the door completely and sanded it to be ready to take on a new stain. And those areas do not absorb the stain.
TOM: Yeah, they are likely have some sort of a sealer or something that got under that. After you sanded it, did you use a sanding sealer on the whole surface?
KATHY: I did not. In my experience, I’d always leant the stain on first and then use a ...
TOM: Well, it’s not a sealer at that point; it’s a finish.
But one thing I’m thinking that could have helped, Leslie- and "youre asking me" whatever it is you think- is that if she used a sanding sealer, she may have improved the absorption rate of all the wood so that it was maybe a little evener, a little more attire. So that it would have all soaked in at about the same level.
Can you get any discolour to take in those areas? Even if you make dark stain and settled it on with a small paintbrush? Or will nothing stick to that?
TOM: Well, all I can say is that something is applied there that’s sealing the lumber and unless you can get it to assimilate, it’s going to be a problem. Those old hinges, they didn’t ogle so bad after all, did they?
KATHY: I kind of get that feeling.
TOM: Yeah. Yeah. If you’ve previously sanded it down and you still can’t get the stain to absorb, there’s probably nothing that you’re going to do that’s proceeding to change that.
Listen, the other thing that you could do is paint the doors. I want there’s a lot of decorated cabinets today; they look pretty nice.
KATHY: Yes. Yes. And we’re looking at other options but wanted to be sure that we really had to go that route.
TOM: As long as you sanded it exhaustively and you still can’t get it to absorb, then I say that you’ve done all that you can do at this detail, Kathy.
KATHY: OK. Alright. Well, I acknowledge your do my call.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a summon with your how-to, decoration or remodeling questions, right now, to 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, regional home increase pros for any residence activity. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Well, it’s approximately time to put away outdoor furniture for the season. To cure make sure it survives that off-season mold-free , we’re going to have tip-off on how to best clean and store it so it’s "re ready for" a fresh start in the spring, when The Money Pit continues.
Making good homes better, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where you can find top-rated residence busines pros and diary appointments online, all for free.
TOM: And if "youre calling" us, right now, at 888 -6 66 -3 974, we’ll toss your list in The Money Pit hard hat, because we’ve got a change of Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar Clamps to give away.
These are super-handy secures. You’ll be able to clamp things with one mitt. Plus, they can be joined together to double the ability for bigger jobs. You’ll get two of the Jorgensen E-Z Hold 24 -Inch Medium-Duty Expandable Bar Clamps for a total value of 80 bucks.
That package is going out to one listener proceeded at random. Make that you. Pick up the phone, call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Jim in California needs help with a decorate job. What can we do for you today?
JIM: I’ve got two floors that I rebuilt nearly three times ago and had never treated them. Did a real nice job: mitered recess, rounded everything, routed everything. And of course , not considering them, they have weathered and I required to clean them.
LESLIE: OK. And so your edition is you’re seeing some wear and tear but the big problem is discoloration?
JIM: Yes. The oxidization.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. So everything examinations a little gray and simply braved?
LESLIE: Now, with the blotch, that’s normal wear and tear of any type of wood surface. And if you were to simply, say, employed a sealer on there, yes, you’re going to protect the wood from any further cracking or checking and you may help it, depending on the genu that "youre using", from further injury from, say, the sunlight. But if you require the emblazon to be really what you rebuild, you’re going to have to go with a stain that has a color in it.
So depending on the condition of that flooring, you can go with a semi-transparent, which will lodge complexion on but still allow you to see the condition of the wood through it, you are aware, through the stain itself. Or you can go with a solid stain, which gives you a little bit of longer time between having to refinish it, gives you more protection because it is a further saturation of hue and a heavier pigmentation of coloring. So it truly depends on what kind of inspect you want and truly, the condition of the grove itself.
JIM: Yes. Well, my partner wants me to bring the colour back.
TOM: That complexion is long gone, my friend. You can’t delivering it back formerly it grays out like that but you can restore it if you stain it, like Leslie recommended. And you can use semi-transparent or solid color and it will search really gone and you’ll still identify the cereal. So you’re not going to lose the grain of the wood. But once it turns gray like that, you’re not going to be able to restore it unless you sand it and that’s really pretty much a consume of effort.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve get Michelle in Iowa on the line who’s looking to spend some more time outdoors with a attack excavation. How can we help with that programme?
MICHELLE: Well, we started making an outside flaming quarry with fieldstone. And our mortar that we seem to be using, it just seems like it’s sickening dry and it’s like it’s cracking. So, didn’t know if you had a different label that you thought would wreak or any suggestions.
TOM: Well, one tip-off is that if it’s a really warm, baked era when you’re working, you might want to consider putting some plastic over the areas that you’re working on, to slow the vapour rate. Because if it bakes really quickly, sometimes it can flinch and crack.
MICHELLE: And no particular symbol of mortar you think would work best as what the collects recommend for outside hearths?
TOM: Well, QUIKRETE employs extremely well, so you could look to the QUIKRETE brand. And one of the advantages of QUIKRETE is they’ve too got muches and piles and lots of videos online that give you the step-by-step on how to properly mix the product, for example, in this case.
MICHELLE: OK. Thank you.
TOM: Well, as outdoor-living season starts to come to a close, the time has come for your outdoor furniture to go into hibernation. But before you bundle it up, it’s a good intuition to empty it up.
Now, at our residence we to be launched by running any cushions that are machine-washable through the washing machine and then, of course, making them baked really well in the sunshine. And that’s super important, peculiarly if you want to avoid mold.
At the least, you should be able to vacuum any cushions that can’t be run through a washer. I like to use my big-hearted wet/dry, strong shop vacuum for that, because it just does a great job of getting all that dirt and debris and other types of dirt and mold spores that may have been drop from the trees out of those cushions. And then I pack them up in ponderous, pitch-black, plastic bags for storage in the attic.
Worked well, by the way, for a good deal of years except that one year when a squirrel got into the garage attic. So now we set them in the house attic. And so the squirrels will not have to munch on them.
LESLIE: Well, they sounds there was comfy set in the attic.
TOM: That’s right.
LESLIE: Now, for your plastic furniture that comes discoloured and generally nasty-looking, you could actually make a really great cleansing answer yourself. Precisely mix dish soap with Borax and 1/2 -cup peroxide in 1 gallon of liquid. Then use a nylon cover to scrub down furnishings. Make sure you gargle well.
If you’ve got metal furniture, you can use soapy sea and some elbow grease. You can also remove any rust in stains with sandpaper or a cable brush. Then is moving forward and prime and repaint those spots to avoid further rusting.
TOM: And if you’ve went lumber furniture, then bathe it down with an lubricant soap, like a Murphy’s Oil Soap. Let it dry really well. And it’s too a good time to take note of any that might need total refinishing, which is best left for the spring.
888-666-3974. If you’ve got a cleaning or any other type of question about caring for your mansion, give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ron in Florida is on the line with a leaky ocean heater. What’s going on? Tell us how old it is.
RON: Well, the breaker had hurled a couple ages and I turned it back on. And (inaudible) bided when I turned it on. And then I’d gone in, made a nap, came back out. When I did, the entire garage was full of water. I approximate the pressure-relief valve that’s up top was just- it was just spewing out sea extremely, excessively sizzling. Hotter than we’ve ever suffered having our- what I thought it was. It time continues to heat.
And so, at any rate, I turned the breaker off. I ogled in the panel where the thermostats were and the elements and they were just fried; they were burnt. They were burned up. I got a good scare because the insulation was darkened and could have been worse than it was, I suspect, it catching flaming. But I simply wondered what would have performed the hot-water heater do that.
TOM: OK. Well, let’s see. The influence/ temperature relief valve, which is something that that’s called on the side of the spray heater, is set to go off at about 150 pounds of pressure. And theoretically, the way it succeeds is if the liquid heater doesn’t shut off, because there’s something wrong with the dominate tour, it will continue to hot and hot and hot and build up pressure to the point where to prevent the tank from severing, the pressure/ temperature valve will open up.
Now, I will say this: very frequently, those valves neglect and they will open up way before they’re designed to open up. And if that’s the occasion, you only supersede the valve. But it reverberates to me like this thing get so wet that the ocean got to get the elements and that’s what compelled a short, which induced the breaker to trip.
LESLIE: Yeah. But is this associated with an age of a liquid heater or is this just a random, stroke trouble?
TOM: Not really. I’ve seen brand-new influence/ temperature valves that can pop open, as well. And sometimes, you get a little bit of debris that’s stuck under them, very, when you try to close them and that spawns it even worse.
Now, where are we at right now with the ocean heater? You’re still there with it or have you superseded it? What’s your- where are you at with development projects?
RON: Just the- what I was looking at didn’t look like it was even worth prepare with all the- like I said, with all the burned ...
TOM: Well, it may not. If it’s more than a few years old and you’ve came that much going on with it, I’d probably change the liquid heater myself.
But what I was going to say, the one thing that you can try- and assuming that the coils were still OK. You mentioned they were burned out. Burned out is- with a coil, it’s kind of hard to do. If they just got wet and short-change, that’s a different situation. You can clean out the contacts and it’ll work. But if the coils were OK, otherwise, what you could do is you open and close the pressure-and-temperature valve several times.
And by the way, there’s supposed to be a discharge pipe on that that stops within 6 inch of the storey. And sometimes, the plumbers don’t set that on. But if you open and close that a cluster of epoches to try to sort of clean out that valve, sometimes it’ll reseat itself. And this is assuming that it didn’t open because there is something electrically mistaken with it. But I would do that.
There’s things that I would check but there’s- these are things you probably couldn’t check. For pattern, I’d check the amperage on the coils to see if they were drawing naturally and things like that that tells me sort of- the circuit is working precisely. So, I guess what we’re coming to here is if you’ve got this much going on with - you’re probably going to have to replace it and you’re going to need a plumber for that, anyway.
But that’s probably whatever happens. It probably begin with the pressure/ temperature valve leaking, that sea get in there and generating a big mess electrically. Because water and electricity do not mix, as you have learned, my friend.
LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime with your question 24 hours per day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Up next, are you having a hard time conserve your garden searching lush, thick-witted and dark-green? Well, you may be able to stop fighting an uphill battle by replacing grass with another similarly dark-green groundcover. We’re going to share those options, next.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
And 888 -MONEY-PIT is submitted by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home assignment before you hire a pro and instant book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
TOM: Call us, right now, with your dwelling increase question at 1-888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Susan in Montana is having some sewage issues such as the driveway. Tell us what’s going on.
SUSAN: I had my agency driveway resurfaced with asphalt. And I thought that the people did a really excellent job until we got a monsoon( ph) rain and all the water was rallying. And I had to leave to go down to Colorado and I got a frantic telephone call from my husband telling me that the spray was backing up into the house and it was like a big pool. And I called the asphalt parties and they’re not responds to me.
TOM: Well, listen, if they are only resurfaced the driveway, they’re not going to do anything to change the pitch.
SUSAN: That’s true-blue. They did make love but they deliberately- presumably, they had the pitch so that it would drain off into the lawn.
TOM: And they didn’t quite get that right. So how do you specify that?
TOM: If the water is draining down the driveway back towards the building- so in other words, it’s never truly draining off to the lawn anywhere- then what you have to do is you have to placed a drapery depletion in the driveway itself.
And in a driveway, basically it’s a responsibility where the driveway is essentially sliced in half. They slice out a hunk of driveway that’s perhaps 6 inches wide. And you drop this trough into it so that as the irrigate falls down the driveway, it removes into the trough- there’s a gradation on top- and then it runs out the bottom of the trough. And of course, that requires some additional plumbing, so to speak, because you have to hook it up to a drainpipe to take it to the lowest place on the asset to be disposed of the sea. But that’s how you drain a driveway that’s not sloped properly.
And typically, that’s put right near the house or right near the garage lip or something like that so that it catches the irrigate at the lowest possible spot.
SUSAN: So who would I call for something like that? A plumber?
TOM: You’re going to need a general contractor that are in a position install that for you. I necessitate a driveway-sealing company is not going to do it. A general contractor that have been able to do that- it’s kind of a handyman project. It’s not a difficult programme, it’s not a really time-consuming project but you essentially have to cut into that driveway and invest a ditch. You’ve got to catch that water and you’ve got to manage it. And that’s the only course to get it on, Susan.
Thanks so much for christen us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Lawns. They are so beautiful when they’re a thick-skulled, lush green but to be maintained that nature is a lot of undertaking. If you’re ready to throw in the towel, take heart because grass is not the only bush that can deliver a luxuriant, light-green review. Now got a few groundcovers that are another good option.
TOM: Now, first off, let’s talk about moss. It’s good for moist and shady grounds that have acidic soil. Now, it doesn’t have any roots, so it’s not a great choice for households with kids or rambunctious dogs, which could potentially entirely obliterate it out if your garden come ponderou foot transaction, unless maybe you’re only putting it in between some stepping stones. Now, it doesn’t need fertilizer, so it really rarely needs to be watered, as well, especially once it gets built. It is, nonetheless, easily squelched, so you’ve got to keep the leaves off of it.
And when it comes to planting, pretty easy. You flora it in the spring, preferably after the trees have leafed out. You pulps clumps of the moss into the surface of moistened grime, you lightly irrigate it for about three weeks and you’re absolutely good to go.
LESLIE: Now, another great option is clover. Now, clover’s a perennial, so it comes back every year, and it’s tough as nails. And it is currently working on grounds that have full sunbathe to part subtlety. Another cool thing about clover is that it makes nitrogen from the air and it stockpiles it into the root nodules, it is therefore actually fertilizes itself.
For maintenance, it needs really an periodic mow and its lily-white buds captivate bees. Or you can plant microclover, which produces smaller flowers that aren’t as enticing to bees. To seed it, it’s actually real easy. You just sow the seeds in the spring and continue moist until they germinate.
TOM: Now, let’s talk about sedges, one of my favorite grass-like plants. They came to see you clumps and they’re perennial. And they can definitely mimic the review of a lawn. You can leave them even unmowed or you could maintain a more formal sound of a lawn but you exclusively "re going to have to" mow them a few times a year.
When it comes to planting, one of the easiest groundcovers to embed. You simply plant the plugs in the spring or the fall or even in the winter if you live in a warm climate. Or you can sow seeds in the spring. Just irrigate them until the embeds are established. Maybe add a top dressing of compost or mulch between the pushes to help maintain that soil moisture until it all develops in neat and thick.
So, if you’re thoroughly does so with the idea of having to keep up with the needs of grass, groundcovers do furnish a very solid alternative that can have your lawn see just as green.
LESLIE: Richard in Kansas, you’ve went The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICHARD: I’m interested- I have an older home I remodeled. It’s built in the 30 s and I wanted to throw in a whole-house water-filtration method. And I was going to connect right to the service line going in.
And I’ve been browse around. I detected the small canister kinds and then it time hops up to a big, 33 -gallon, barrel-type filtration, which is too much. And I merely wanted to know what a good label is and what I need- reverse-osmosis and all that.
TOM: You know, Richard, 3M forms the Filtrete line. That’s F-i-l-t-r-e-t-e. And they have single filters for give under maybe your kitchen sag or shower but they also have a whole-house system. It’s not seriously expensive; I think it’s under 100 bucks. And installation is pretty straightforward, so perhaps you could even get it on yourself. And they also have various levels of filtration.
So I would take a look at the Filtrete Whole-House System Water Filters and I think that’s a good option to make sure your water is tasting good throughout the entire home.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for summon The Money Pit.
You can call in your dwelling fixing or your dwelling better question anytime 24 hours a day, 7 days a few weeks right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Hey, have you ever opened up that electric bill and wondered where all your electricity is going? Well, there’s a new product on the market that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re using your electricity and how you can use less of it. We’re going to tell you all about it, next.
TOM: Where home answers live, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on on this beautiful September weekend? If it’s your residence, you’re in the right place, because we have got some implements to give away that can help you with some of those projects. If you call us, right now, at 888 -MONEY-PIT we will toss your name in The Money Pit hard hat for a provide of Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar Clamps.
Very, terribly helpful clamps because you can use them with one handwriting, which ever is nice when I’m working on a project, because I tend to run out of paws a lot.
LESLIE: It’s true.
TOM: Plus, they can be joined together to double the capacity if you’ve got a bigger project.
We’re giving away a fixed of two. They have a total value of 80 horses and going out to one listener sucked at random. If you want to procreate that you, pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Esther in South Dakota on the line with a shed that is scorching. Tell us what’s going on.
ESTHER: It is really hot today. We’ve had temperatures outside of up to 102, so it- we just moved here, so right now it just has the sleighs and the bicycles and the stuff stashed in it. But I was intended to put my potting shelf out there.
TOM: Esther, what you’re looking for, for this roof, is something called a ”reflective roof coating.” It’s mostly paint that’s designed for a metal roof, that is further designed to reflect the heat that your shed is gaining back out.
The problem is that these products are typically only designed for business structures. So, you’re going to have to do a little of work to find it; it’s not like you’re going to be able to run down to the equipment accumulation and select this up. But they do exist and I’m hoping that you can buy it in a gallon container, as opposed to 5 gallons or more. Because, again, they’re typically used on a business basis for much bigger roofs.
One company that prepares them is called Sealoflex- S-e-a-l-o-f-l-e-x- and they have a reflective varnish called ReflectoWhite that is a particularly reflective coating for all sorts of ceiling surfaces. But it’s important that you get one that’s specifically designed for roofs; otherwise, it’s not going to stick. OK?
ESTHER: I understand.
TOM: Alright. Well, good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, have you ever opened your electric bill and wondered where all that electricity is going? Now there’s a new product to the market that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re using your electricity and how you can use less of it.
TOM: Well, that’s right. It’s called the Sense Home Energy Monitor. And I actually really lay one in my house. And you can see how it works at GetSense.com.
But it’s pretty amazing. It cultivates kind of like a fitness tracker for your home, Leslie. So it tells you what’s on, what’s off and how much vitality it’s exerting. So you can save money and determine your dwelling a bit more sustainable.
Now, the way it installs is directly to your primary electrical body. And formerly it’s there, it monitors your home’s electrical be utilized in real experience. It’s got an app that lets you see what’s on and what’s off and how much exertion everything is using up and how much it expenditure daily, weekly and monthly. You’ll even be able to spot energy guzzlers before they show up in the form of a huge electric bill, which can be super helpful.
LESLIE: Now, Sense also is contributing to look after your family by tracking your home’s activity and invention use.
For example, within the Sense app, you can see if you turned off the clothing dryer before leaving the house. And you can adjusted alerts to tell you if you’ve left the coffee maker on.
Now, Sense can also help you avoided problems by name singular the actions of your home, all in real duration and before it becomes an issue. Because it can look for uncommon motifs, like a refrigerator that’s running perpetually because its filter is choked or a sump spout that’s running more than usual, because perhaps the sea heater break-dance and your basement is submerge and you’re on vacation.
TOM: Yeah. It’s actually an incredibly helpful and very smart device that can save you fund and induce your home more efficient and sustainable. So have a look. It’s at GetSense.com. There’s a cool video there that paths you through. That’s GetSense.com. I guarantee you once you see it, you’re going to want one for your house.
LESLIE: John in Delaware is dealing with a spider problem. I can’t even talk about it for horror they will jump into my house. What’s going on?
JOHN: I moved to the beach about 10 years ago. I’m not- I’m 12 miles from the sea but I don’t know whether that’s part of the problem or not. But we have spiders inside the house all the time. They’re ever in the angles of the area. It’s rare to come into any chamber and not have one. And it seems like as quickly as you be disposed of them, a week later you have more in the same ranges. And it is very annoying.
TOM: What do you do to get rid of them, John?
JOHN: The simply thing I do is I try to kill them and knock down their little web.
TOM: Good luck with that. That’s not working out too well for you, I pot, huh?
JOHN: No, it’s not.
TOM: You’re not going to make the fighting if that’s your management approaching. The thing about insects today is the best way to control them is through science. And if you look at a company like Orkin - you are aware, a company that’s been around forever- these guys know exactly what insecticide to put down, they know how to articulated it down in the right amounts and the products that they use today are very insect-specific.
It applied to be that there was sort of a broad-spectrum pesticide that was put down. Today, the pesticides are very, very specific for the problem. And if I was dealing with this in my home, I wouldn’t be running around with my boot trying to kill them all. I would have the pesticide applied in the right amounts, right place and be done with it.
So, I would recommend that you call Orkin and have that taken care of the right way. It’s safer to do that than to buy over-the-counter pesticides, which you end up over-applying- which are far more dangerous, in my opinion- and certainly a good deal less annoying than having to stomp them to demise, OK?
So, I would exploit a pesticide to restrict these spiders and that’s very best solution.
JOHN: OK. And you would not advise trying to do it on your own. You’d advise getting a busines that’s- would they regularly- to have them come back?
TOM: Yeah, you can’t buy the products that a professional can buy. They’re not available to the public because they have to be applied just right. That’s why it’s a good theory to turn to a pro, like Orkin.
John, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: 888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home projection before you hire a pro. And instantly volume one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
Hey, are you tired of waiting for hot water to reach your shower in the morning? We’re going to highlight an easy-to-install solution, next.
TOM: Fixing good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Hey, what are you working on? If it’s your residence, you are in the right place. Give us a scold, right now, because we’d love to give you some tips-off, some admonition to help you get those projects done a lot easier. That list is 888 -6 66 -3 974. Or you can post your question to Money Pit’s Facebook sheet at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit. That’s what Randy did.
LESLIE: That’s right. Randy writes: “My lavatory is some distance from the ocean heater and it takes a got a couple of minutes for the liquid to get hot. I’m considering adding a hot-water lobster invention, which is supposed to give me an instant hot water. Will it work?”
TOM: So, I was not very well known the design and I did a little bit of research on it. And it struck me that it’s very, very similar to a device I am familiar with that is called the Watts Hot-Water Recirculating System- Watts is the brand name; W-a-t-t-s- with one key gap and that is that the hot-water lobster does not have a circulating pump that will move the liquid through the plumbing cables. And therefore, it kind of seems to rely on the cheerfulnes of heated versus cold water to move that hot water towards your lavatory that’s the- it’s the farthest, mostly, away from the spray heater.
The way these things work is there’s a crossover hose and valve that gone on the liquid- generally the subside- that’s the outermost plumbing fixture away from the liquid heater. And it essentially spills a little bit of hot water back into the cold slope. It virtually will help mix that hot water in quicker.
And with the Watts division, it labor on that recirculating spout, which is able to mounted a timer for. So I just feel like that’s probably a more reliable way to go, because this way it are now working exactly when you want it to work. And it’s not going to run 24/7 and trash a slew of energy. You could mount it for those couple of hours in the morning when you’re waking up and just tired of stepping into that really freezing-cold shower.
So, I’m not familiar with the device you were asking about but I am familiar with Watts. It’s reasonably inexpensive; it’s under a duet hundred bucks. And if you are pretty handy, with some basic DIY talents, you can probably even install it yourself.
So, hope that helps you out, Randy.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, "weve had" a pole from Jenna in Virginia who writes: “I’m about to get my husband a large, flat-screen TV. My question is whether any wall can hold that wall mount. Do I need any special equipment to make sure it’s not going to fall? ”
TOM: What a great wife, huh? She wants to get him a large, flat-screen TV. She might never accompany him again.
Well, listen, Jenna, the key with these flat screens is that there’s a bracket that usually is sold separately from the flat screen. It has to be properly installed. And they’re all same but except in accordance with procedures that they tilt or move that flat screen. Some will tilt one tack, some will tilt in two directions and so on. But when you get that bracket, you’ve got to follow the instructions about lay it. And it usually comes with all the hardware you need.
And very important, though, is that the bracket has to be installed into the wall studs. So that’s was just going to require a little carpentry skill to identify but those brackets are certainly wide enough to captivate two of the horizontal studs with two fixings each. And that should be plenty of power- batch of propping ability- for that large-screen TV.
Interestingly, those large-screen TVs are not as heavy as you might think. And those brackets do require enough protection for you to go ahead and attach to the wall. But again, it’s got to be attached to the studs.
So, I’m pretty sure it can get done in your residence, perception unseen, as long as it’s a regular, standard wood-frame wall. But it’s got to be done right. Otherwise, that’s not going to end up well.
LESLIE: And make sure you pick the right bracket. It’s got to be sized for the TV itself. And it’s get so many different functionalities. Make sure it does the things that you want it to do. Do you want the forearm to spread so you can tilt it and look in another room? Do you only want top or bottom, top-down swizzle? There’s a whole cluster of different things. So, look into it before you purchase one and introduced it up.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on breath and online at MoneyPit.com. Hey, thank you so much for spending this part of your epoch with us. If you’ve get questions, you can send them in, 24/7, to 888 -MONEY-PIT by announce us. Or announce them to The Money Pit’s Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.
Until then, I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t "re going to have to" do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No segment of this record or audio document is also available reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc .)
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re here to help you with your home improvement project. It’s our job to help you maximize the financial and the functional and the aesthetic value of your home. We’re going to try to educate and inspire you with home improvement tips and ideas to help you get those projects done. And if you’ve got an improvement planned, working inside or out, now is the time to do it. That’s why we call this the “Goldilocks season,” because it’s not too hot, it’s not too cold, right? Just like the nursery rhyme, it’s just right. So, whether you’re working inside or out, pick up the phone, give us a call with your questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or post them online to our Community page at MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s show, now that temperatures have dropped, are you feeling the chill through your walls and windows and doors? You know, finding the source of those drafts can be tricky, so we’re going to give you some tips to help you hunt them down and seal them up, just ahead.
LESLIE: And also coming up this hour, when it comes to maintaining your home, painting is probably the most basic of do-it-yourself projects out there. But it’s also a project that can go terribly wrong if you don’t do just three things before you start. What are those three things? Well, we will tell you those steps, in just a bit.
TOM: And are you ready to fire up your fireplace for the first time this season? That’s exciting. But before you do, we’re going to have the how-to you need to know to make sure your chimney, your damper and your firebox are all safe.
But first, give us a call right now. That number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. We are ready to help you with your home improvement questions.
LESLIE: We’ve got Sandra in Maryland on the line and she’s got a really old house and an electrical problem. What’s happening at your money pit?
SANDRA: A hundred-and-three years old.
TOM: Oh. That’s great. That’s a good age for houses. It’s just starting to get seasoned. Settling in a bit.
SANDRA: Oh, it settles a lot.
TOM: Yeah, I bet, I bet. So, has the wiring been updated at all or is it original? Is it knob-and-tube? What kind of wiring do you have?
SANDRA: I have a mix of knob-and-tube and some updated. What’s down in the walls, I think, is still knob-and-tube.
SANDRA: Some of the stuff that’s more out has been replaced.
TOM: And what are you planning to do? What’s precipitating this question? Is this just a general concern about safety? Are you doing some other remodeling?
SANDRA: Well, what I’ve done is started redoing the kitchen.
SANDRA: And I took up the seven layers of linoleum and got all the creosote out and got all the stuff that probably I shouldn’t have been inhaling out of the kitchen. And we sanded the floors and kept the original, old, wood floors. And the paneling in the kitchen I’m not willing to tear down because it’s horsehair plaster behind it. And every time you touch the wall, you hear stuff fall.
SANDRA: So, I’m not willing to replace it. We painted the paneling and I want to put new floorboard trim around. But all of the wiring – it’s those big, black wires that go from one outlet to another outlet.
TOM: Let me give you some advice on this because it is time to update that wiring. First of all, any existing knob-and-tube wiring is very dangerous and here’s why: when it gets to be 100 years old, the insulation on that wiring is very dried out, very brittle, very crumbly. I can’t tell you how many times, in the 20 years I spent as a home inspector, that I found that kind of wiring in a house and often found burn marks – very frightening – burn marks on the framing that surrounded it.
So, you definitely want to deactivate that wiring. You don’t have to physically pull it out of the walls as long as it’s not electrified. And then, of course, you want to update that with new, modern wiring that’s consistent with current electrical code.
Now, for the kitchen, you really want to do something different than what would’ve been done when the home was originally built. It had wiring but it had all of that kitchen, I’m sure, on one circuit. And that’s why an older home, sometimes, when you’re in a kitchen, you often see the lights dim when the refrigerators kick on, because they’re both – major appliance and lighting are on the same circuit.
You want to have one circuit for your appliances – your dishwasher, your refrigerator – perhaps even more than one circuit for that and then a separate circuit for lighting and outlets. And of course, all of the outlets also should be ground-fault protected because this is a wet location. And ground-fault protection protects you from receiving a shock if you were using an appliance that shorted or had any other type of electrical incident that occurred.
So, you are smart to be concerned about this. It is something that you should take care of, whether you do it one room at a time or the entire house at a time. You know, that’s going to be up to time and budget. But you should have on your overall remodeling plan the need to get rid of that knob-and-tube and completely de-energize it, because it is unsafe for the reasons I stated.
And also, by the way, that particular wiring is not grounded nor is it groundable. So that’s another reason it’s unsafe. It’s just the way it was done back then.
SANDRA: I think some of the kitchen had been done because I did have an electrician friend come in and install some new outlets. And he just ran from one to the next and I do have different circuit breakers downstairs and all that kind of stuff. But one of the things that when – I do have – I think the one wall hasn’t been done. I know that sounds odd. But when they have the wires that are out – the big, black wires going across on any of the wires – and I don’t want them to go behind the wall, because they can’t without damaging the wall. Do I need to put those metal covers over them before I can put the trim board down so I don’t …?
TOM: Well, if you have – if you’re talking about the original knob-and-tube wiring being big black wires, you can’t bury that. That’s very unsafe and here’s why: knob-and-tube wiring – the reason – and by the way, for those that are not familiar with this, if you’ve ever seen an old house where wires seem to be strung on little ceramic posts that stick off the side of beams, those are the knobs. And then where the wires go through the framing, there’s a ceramic tube. And that’s the tube. That’s why it’s called “knob-and-tube.”
And the reason that it sticks off the beam, Sandra, is because it has to be air-cooled. So that’s why you can’t bury knob-and-tube wiring under trim. You can’t even put insulation around it because it makes it doubly unsafe.
SANDRA: So if it’s the big, black wire, then I know I’ve still got original knob-and-tube in there.
TOM: I would have your electrician come in and determine where that wire’s being energized, make sure that if it’s knob-and-tube, it is completely disconnected and then run whatever you have to do from there. And if you can only do it one room at a time, you’ll be just that much more safe. But if you could do the whole house, then just do it.
SANDRA: OK. Great. Thank you so much. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re welcome, Sandra. Good luck with that project.
LESLIE: James in Texas is on the line and having some issues with a window. What’s going on?
JAMES: Well, I have a 1928 brick-veneer home in Texas. It’s on the Register of Historic Properties in Texas, so the exterior of the house is dedicated to the public. I have problems with condensation on the interior window pane.
JAMES: It’s a single-pane and I’m looking for some kind of an option to reduce the condensation and not alter the window casing.
TOM: OK. So, you have single-pane windows? Is that what you’re saying?
JAMES: Correct. Yes.
TOM: Ah. And you have condensation inside those windows because they’re not very efficient. So there’s no insulation in the windows at all.
JAMES: Correct. So when we have a change in temperature, that’s when the condensation occurs.
TOM: Of course, yeah. Because if it gets cold outside and you have warm, moist air inside, it strikes the windows and condenses. And that’s why you get the condensation. So the only way to change that scenario is to either insulate the window, which you don’t want to do, or to potentially reduce the amount of condensation and humidity inside your house.
What kind of heating system do you have? Is it forced hot air?
JAMES: It’s central air and heat.
TOM: OK. So, you could consider installing what’s called a “whole-house dehumidifier.” This is an appliance that’s installed into that duct run. And when it’s activated, it actually takes out quite a bit of humidity and moisture out of the air. Some of the ones that I’ve seen can take out – is it 50, 60 pints of water a day? So a lot of water can come out of that. And it’s not inexpensive but it is a solution.
Other things that you could do would be to take some steps to try to reduce the amount of moisture that forms in the house by improving the grading and the drainage at the foundation perimeter. Because as water sits around the house, it soaks into the foundation and that ends up converting to water vapor and adds to the humidity inside the house. And of course, making sure you’re always using exhaust fans in the bathrooms and exhaust fans in the kitchen that actually vent outside.
So, that’s really – it really comes down to that. You’ve got to reduce humidity or you have to increase the insulation.
JAMES: OK. I appreciate your help.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Pick up the phone, give us a call. We’d love to hear what you are working on. We’re standing by to chat 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros, book appointments online. It’s totally free and you’ll find the right pro for the job.
TOM: Up next, drafts in your home can make you very uncomfortable. But they’re easy to fix if you can find them. We’ll have a Fall Energy-Savings Tip to tell you how to spot the leaky places drafts can turn up and how to seal them for good, after this.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Here to help you with your home improvement projects. Pick up the phone and call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Sandy in Texas on the line who’s got a question about texturing drywall. Tell us about your project.
SANDY: I stripped the wallpaper in our kitchen and so it’s down to sheetrock. And we’d like to put texture in it but I’d like to do it as simply as possible. So I’ve heard that you can put texture into paint and I’d like some more information about that or what you recommend.
TOM: It is possible, right, Leslie, to use an additive in paint? But frankly, we usually get the opposite question. Most people call us wanting to take the texture away.
So I would say, Sandy, are you really sure you want to do this? Because once it gets on there, it’s hard to make it go away.
SANDY: Right. Yes. Our other walls have some texture. And it’s not a heavy texture. It’s just a little bit to make it just not the flat sheetrock.
LESLIE: And it’s a texture in the paint or it’s an actual texture within the drywall itself, almost like a stippling?
SANDY: Well, I’d rather not go that route: the stippling or spackling. I’d like to add some texture to the paint just to give the walls something other than the smooth drywall.
LESLIE: Well, there’s a couple of different techniques that you can use. First, there’s something called a “linen technique.” That’s done with almost like a wallpaper brush: sort of a very short, stiff bristle that’s, you know, maybe 12 inches to 18 inches wide. And you put the paint on and then you sort of drag that brush through. And that gives you a linear texture to it. And that can kind of look like wallpaper and you can do it with one color or do a base color and then let that dry and then put a thinner coat on top and then drag that line through.
You could do something that’s almost called a – I guess it is actually called a “Venetian plaster.” But that involves sort of marbling the texture on and burnishing it and rubbing it and it really is a heavier coat of paint and plaster. But that gives a really interesting sort of cloudy, textural look that sometimes has a high shine to it. There’s a sueded texture. I think Ralph Lauren is one of the paints that makes that. And that has – it really does look like suede. It has that sort of rubbed, softer, matte-looking texture to it. There’s a sanded finish where there’s actual sand in the paint. Sometimes that can feel a little rough, almost like a sandpaper. But that gives a nice texture, too.
They all have different application techniques. So if I were looking at a paint that has a specific texture in a home center, I’d make sure that I really read those directions and looked at what that manufacturer was recommending for the application process and get those correct tools and do the proper prep work for it. Because some of those textures are kind of labor intensive for a DIYer and you want to make sure you get it right.
SANDY: Absolutely. OK. Well, I will look into the things you’ve suggested here and make a decision then.
TOM: I hope that helps you out.
SANDY: It does. Thank you so much.
LESLIE: Well, now that we are entering heating season and maybe a lot of you are already using the heat in full swing this time of year, you really want to try and get the most out of your energy dollar. And to do that, you’ve got to keep out drafts. But those drafts aren’t always just found in really obvious places.
TOM: Yeah. Now, my favorite place that sneaky drafts happen are switch plates and outlets on exterior walls. Air gets into those walls and those drafts from the outside will just zip right in to the inside if they’re not properly sealed.
But the fix is very simple. You can pick up some precut foam gaskets – they’re available at home centers and hardware stores; they’re literally pennies a piece – and then slip them under the cover plates. They do a great job of keeping those drafts out.
LESLIE: I mean truly, it’s one of the least expensive improvements that you can make that will make a very noticeable difference in your expenses, which is just amazing to me.
The other thing, if you find that you have larger gaps on those exterior walls, you can try and fill those up with an expandable foam. Now, that’s going to stop the airflow but in a lot of cases, it’s not going to stop any rodents or pests from coming in. So if you want to do that, as well, you can mix in a little steel wool just to sort of strengthen it up and keep the little rodent guys from chewing their way in.
TOM: Yeah, good point. So, lots of ways to try to cut back on those drafts. But I tell you what, they do add up. So get them done now before it gets too terribly cold. You’ll be a lot more comfortable all winter long.
LESLIE: Vincent, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
VINCENT: I have got an issue with a leaking ceiling. Not sure if it’s coming from my roof or from my air conditioners. Doesn’t do it all the time but sometimes, when it rains, it comes down. And then other times, when it’s not raining, it comes down. So we’re kind of at a loss.
We’ve got a metal roof on it. It’s an older-structure house.
VINCENT: I’m just thinking maybe the drip edge at the – going where it goes into the gutter and (inaudible). I’ve not had any luck, because I’ll think I have it fixed and then it’ll come – the rain – and it comes in again.
TOM: It comes in again, right.
TOM: So, what have you been doing it to fix it? Have you been sealing the seams in the metal roof?
VINCENT: Yeah. We got up and put some caulking and stuff along where the edges and stuff were. And it’s supposed to be a 20-year roof and we’ve only had it on the house probably about 8 years.
TOM: Well, wait a minute. So if this is a metal roof, it’s supposed to be a 100-year roof. Metal roofs last a long time.
Here’s what I would do. I would try to make it leak. So I would go up there – can you get up there in that area with a hose?
TOM: OK. So I would try to make it leak. So I would try a normal, light-duty rainfall when it falls down from the top and see if that does anything. And then I would try some directional pressure against those seams and see if I can figure out what type of driving rainstorm is coming in here. Because I suspect it is due to the rain driving in on those. And it might be trapped in there and that’s why maybe it comes out days later after a rainfall. I don’t know. But I think what you’re going to have to do is to try to figure out what part of that is breaking down.
And then once you do, if you’ve already gone the caulk route, I would suggest taking apart that section of the roof and then putting it back together with the proper sealants to make sure you get it done once and for all.
VINCENT: Right. OK. OK.
TOM: Alright? And that’s the way to approach that.
VINCENT: Yeah. We’ve got to repair the ceiling but we’re not going to repair the ceiling until we get the (inaudible).
TOM: Yeah. No, you don’t want to do that until you know you’ve got this leak done. Yeah.
And by the way, when you do repair that ceiling, make sure you use primer on it. Because if you don’t prime over leak stains, they’re going to come right through the finish paint, OK?
VINCENT: Yeah. Actually, I think what we’re going to do is put up a lip siding or a – not a paneling but it’s a plank that’ll go up and get rid of the popcorn that’s up there right now. It’s got a popcorn ceiling.
TOM: Oh, yeah. Well, listen, you know the four most expensive words in home improvement: while you’re at it.
VINCENT: Yeah. See you.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Lee in Kansas on the line with a concrete question. Tell us what you are working on.
LEE: I’m in an old house that I got in a survivorship and it’s got an old – probably was built in the 60s. I’m in the prairie of Kansas. It has an entryway concrete porch that just keeps cracking and cracking due to earthquakes. We had a pretty good one a week or so ago and now it’s really unlevel. Some of the cracks are small enough that I could fill and aren’t unlevel. And I was just wondering – because I don’t live near a Lowe’s or a Home Depot or anything like that. I think it’s like an hour-and-a-half drive away. There’s a local hardware store about 10 miles.
Can you fill small cracks with QUIKRETE or do you need concrete or Sakrete? I don’t know what the differences are.
TOM: OK. So, first of all, the type of repair material you use is different than the type of material you would use if you were, say, pouring a new concrete slab. And you mentioned QUIKRETE. That’s a great brand and they have a wide variety of repair products. You have the option to repair the cracks. You could also resurface that concrete. There’s a product for that. And in all cases, the difference between that type of a product – a repair product and the original sort of concrete product – is that the repair products are designed to adhere to the original concrete base. If anything is loose, of course, you have to pop that out and restore it.
But short of that, there are plenty of concrete-repair products that are out there and you’re going to obviously have to get yourself to a hardware store or lumberyard to find it. You could do some research online at their website. But you want to make sure you choose a repair product, because it is designed specifically to adhere to those surfaces.
LEE: OK. Thank you so much. Alright.
TOM: Good luck. 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Coming up, when it comes to maintaining your home, painting is the most basic of DIY projects. You think it’s easy, guys, but it’s also a project that can go terribly wrong if you don’t do just three things before you start. We’re going to share those steps, just ahead, in today’s Building with Confidence Tip presented by Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans, next.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this fine weekend day? If it’s your house, if it’s your home, you’re in exactly the right place because we’re here to help you every step of the way. Got a question? Got a tip? Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Tony in Tennessee is on the line who came home to a mystery flood. Tell us about it. And hopefully, there wasn’t too much damage.
TONY: I’d been gone for about a week. I turned the master water valve off, the water supply to my house. Been gone for about a week, came back, went – and it’s a split-foyer, pretty fair-size house. So came in through the garage, came into – straight through into my man’s den and I hear the sound of dripping water, which is obviously never a good sound. So I go back to the far end of the house, away from the garage, and the whole downstairs has a substantial amount of water in it. And I look up and it’s dripping down from the ceiling and really, directly onto my big-screen TV at that point.
LESLIE: That’s not good.
TONY: That’s no – not good. So I packed myself up the stairs, so it’s – on the very far end of the house is our washroom. The washing-machine tub is full of water and overflowing. And that was the source of the water.
TOM: When you say washing, you mean the slop sink? Was that taking the discharge of the washer or was the washer itself overfilling – overflowing?
TONY: The washer itself.
TOM: So you’re basically saying that you were away and when you came back, you found this water had collected into – in the laundry area because the washer was filled up with water and that was overflowing and leaking down through the house, right on your flat-screen TV. Is that correct? Have I got it right?
TONY: That’s correct.
TOM: But the main water valve was turned off?
TONY: Yes. And when I looked at all this, I thought, “I’m sure I turned the water valve off.” I went to the nearest faucet, turned it on, nothing. No water pressure, everything – there was no water pressure in the lines of my house.
TOM: Well, that is a mystery, is it not?
TONY: My only theory is that when you come in the garage to downstairs, there is a bathroom there and that’s where the washing – correction, that’s where the hot-water heater is. So it’s basically mid-range of the house, on the bottom level.
TONY: The washing machine is on the upper-level far end of the house. And this is about a 5,000-square-foot house. So, pretty good-size house. Only thing I can ever have come up with is it created, somehow, some type of a siphon and it had siphoned water from the hot-water heater.
TOM: Right. Yeah.
TONY: All the plumbers, everybody I’ve ever talked to said, “No way. No, it’s impossible.”
TONY: I said, “Well, give me your alternative,” and nobody ever has. So I thought Tom and Leslie could.
TOM: That is quite a mystery, my friend. Quite a mystery. There would be water in the pipes but it doesn’t seem like it’s enough to do what you’re saying it did.
The other thing I was thinking about is whether or not that was wastewater and it backed up from the street, because that’s not controlled by a valve.
TONY: There’s no odor to it.
TOM: Yeah. Yeah. Well, I mean it depends on how the plumbing system is designed. If it’s only one waste pipe, yeah, it would be stinky. But if you had a gray-water pipe, it would not be stinky.
But I don’t have any other ideas from that than that. I was kind of thinking that siphon idea but it’s still an extraordinary set of circumstances. And it’s never happened again, is that right?
TONY: It has not. But again, I’ve always now, since then, turned the valves off so that no water could get to the washing machine.
TOM: Yeah. Right. And that’s smart. That’s the way you normally would do it, yeah.
Because I was going to say – is that I know that, sometimes, even when you turn faucets off, you can get – you can still get water that leaks through, because I’ve seen this happen. In fact, my mom lives in Florida half the year. And one year, she got a letter from the water company saying that she’d used 10,000 gallons of water. Problem was she wasn’t there for that month. And I’m like, “Where did that 10,000 gallons of water go?” And I knew that we had turned off valves.
Well, it turned out that one of the valves was not completely off and it was leaking through the toilet. So, thankfully, it went down the drain but even, sometimes, when you think the water is off, it’s not. And I do wonder if some – if that could have played part of this scenario that you’ve experienced.
But I thank you for sharing it with us. I don’t have an a-ha moment but I think I can speculate as good as the next guy. And that’s kind of what I’m thinking at this point.
Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, when it comes to maintaining your home, painting or even staining wood surfaces is really important to keep your siding and trim in good shape. Well, painting is a task that’s really among the most basic of do-it-yourself projects. It’s also one where a simple mistake can lead to a really big headache.
TOM: Yeah. And the key is it comes down to preparation. Weathered surfaces need to be cleaned and any loose paint needs to be removed before you even think about opening that can of paint. Now, if not, here’s what’s going to happen: that new paint is not going to stick to that old paint and your efforts will be totally wasted. Or it might stick to the paint but if the paint doesn’t stick to the wood, guess what? It’s all going to peel off, including new paint. So prep is really key.
LESLIE: Next, it’s always smart to apply a coat of primer first. A lot of people skip this step but don’t. The primer is formulated differently than paint that’s meant to be that topcoat. It’s got better adhesion, so it’s going to stick to the old surfaces and then prevent the new paint from peeling.
TOM: And third, for the best finished look, you want to make sure you choose the right kind of paintbrush. Now, natural-bristle brushes are best for applying oil-based paints. But for latex, synthetic-bristle brushes deliver the best results. And they’re going to help maintain the value of your home.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Building with Confidence Tip brought to you by Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans. It’s completely online, reduces annoying and time-consuming paperwork and gives you a real, accurate and personalized mortgage solution based on your unique financial situation, with no hidden fees or hassles.
TOM: Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans. Apply simply, understand fully and mortgage confidently.
LESLIE: Anna in Delaware is on the line with a painting question. What can we do for you today?
ANNA: We painted around the bottom of our house, the foundation, with cement and sand.
ANNA: And what I want to know, can we paint over that with regular paint or would that bleed through?
TOM: The cement-and-sand mix is like a stucco mix, right? And is that sticking to that foundation? Is it breaking off in any way or is it still solid?
ANNA: No, no. It’s in good shape but I wanted – I really wanted to paint it. Some of the neighbors paint it and they look nice. Would it be OK?
TOM: OK. So what you need to do is you need to prime it first. You need to use a masonry primer. That’s really important.
ANNA: But do you have to sand that out?
TOM: No. As long as it’s intact, OK?
ANNA: Yeah, it’s in good shape, yeah.
TOM: Then you need to prime it first, because the primer is what’s going to make the top right – make the top layer of paint stick, so to speak. So you prime it first, let the primer dry really, really well. And then you can put on the topcoat of an exterior-quality paint on top of that and it should be fine. But just remember, after paint comes repaint. So, once you paint it the first time, you’re going to have to paint it again and again as years go by.
ANNA: Yeah, OK. You put the primer on first.
TOM: That’s the key. Make sure it’s primed.
ANNA: OK. Use primer first. OK. That’s what I wanted to know.
TOM: Alright, Anna. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, it’s fall. Are you guys looking forward to that first crackling fire of the season? Well, hold that match until you’re sure your fireplace and chimney are safe and secure. We’ll tell you what to look for, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call right now. We’re here to help you with your home improvement projects, solve those décor dilemmas. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT and that’s presented by HomeAdvisor. They really do have the best local pros for any home service.
LESLIE: That’s right. Doesn’t matter what that project is, they make it fast and easy to find top-rated pros.
TOM: And there are no membership fees. It’s 100-percent free to use. HomeAdvisor.com.
Well, whether you’ve used your fireplace yet this season or not, don’t light another match just yet. Fireplaces and chimneys have a big job to do and making sure they’re up for it is really the key to your family’s safety.
LESLIE: Now, seasonal chimney maintenance ensures that the smoke, the fire, embers and ashes will all stay contained in your fireplace and chimney. It also checks for creosote. Now, that’s a highly combustible buildup that can lead to chimney fires. You should really be checking your chimney for creosote at least once a year or after about 80 fires.
You should head on over to a super-useful website for the Chimney Safety Institute of America and they will help you find a certified chimney sweep.
TOM: And even if a safe fireplace exists, it can always use some backup. So what you might want to do is place a non-flammable rug in front of the fireplace to keep loose sparks from damaging your floors or worse. Or better yet, use a screen and that will help keep those sparks from popping out.
LESLIE: And here’s another thing: if you don’t already have chimney caps, you need them. You have to have them installed to your home to keep wildlife from using your chimney as a passageway into your house.
I had a squirrel do it, literally, the first season we owned our house. Luckily, we had those fireplace covers – you know, the doors that closed – to keep the fire contained. Because we heard a thud and then a pound-pound-pound-pound-pound. It was a squirrel. So, truly, put those caps on the chimney unless you want some unwanted visitors.
TOM: And finally, let’s talk about the firebox. Now, that’s the area where the logs burn. It needs to be cleaned at least once a week during the months you use the fireplace. Leave about an inch of ash; that kind of acts as insulation.
But clean that firebox free of ash during the months you use it and never, ever, ever, ever leave those ashes in anything but a metal ash bucket. And you need to store that well away from your home. I can’t tell you how many times we hear about tragic fires that occur when people take ashes out of fireplaces and think that they’re out but actually, they’re lit and can stay hot for a really long time.
I’ve had fire pits have ash in it that maybe we used for one night and then the next day it rained all day. And the next night, we decided to use it and guess what? It was still hot inside that, even after a rainstorm. So, you really can never tell. Be very careful with those ashes; they do cause a lot of fires.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve got Barry in Iowa on the line who’s got a question about a bathroom with carpeting. And I know your question is really about a pet but bathroom with carpeting?
What’s going on, Barry?
BARRY: Well, the dogs were locked up in the bathroom when we went shopping. So when we came back, they had torn a hole. It wasn’t a big hole but it was probably 2½ inches by 3 inches long. And I can’t cover it no way and so I was wanting to tear the carpet up and put in new carpet because I can’t match the old carpet. And then – but I don’t know how to put a threshold down in there.
TOM: Well, first of all, putting carpet in a bathroom is generally a bad idea because, obviously, it doesn’t mix with the moisture, even if it’s an indoor/outdoor-style carpet. I don’t know what you have. But I would recommend against carpet in a bathroom. So, the dogs may have done you a favor, because it’s forcing you to take that carpet up. Your question is: how do you put a threshold in the door so that you would have a clean edge?
Yeah, well, you certainly – what you basically do is you put in a doorsill there. And it sits even with the door when it’s closed, so it’s about as thick as the door, plus another inch or so. So it’s usually a couple of inches thick. And it may be higher on one side where the carpet is and lower on the other side where the floor is.
But it’s a pretty standard piece of carpentry work or a pretty standard piece of a carpet-installation project. And I would recommend that you remove that carpet from the bathroom and put in a different type of flooring. What’s underneath that carpet? Is there tile under there now?
BARRY: No, it’s a cement slab. It’s a slab house.
TOM: OK. So then what you might want to think about doing is putting in something like a laminate floor.
Now, laminate can look like tile or it could look like stone. But it’s very moisture-resistant, so it’s a terrific choice for the bathroom. And if you want something to kind of warm it up, then put a throw rug on top of it. But I wouldn’t put carpet back.
BARRY: Yeah. Well, that’s what we were thinking, too.
TOM: Yep. Very simple step. Putting in a doorsill is all you need to do. And if you don’t know how to do it yourself, I’m sure your installer can help.
BARRY: I don’t have to nail the threshold to the door – I mean to the floor?
TOM: Oh, no. It’ll be secured to the floor but there’s lots of ways to do that. There’s a way that you can screw through the threshold with a special screw called a Tapcon fastener. And it will secure it to the floor. There are ways.
LESLIE: And then there’s a piece that snaps over it. There is – if you go into your home center, – Home Depot, Lowe’s or whatever you’ve got near you – in the flooring aisle, there’s going to be – at the end, you’ll see wood, metal. They’ll be called “transitions.” It’ll be from carpet to wood. It’ll have all the varieties of one surface to the other surface and all the different ways to install them. They’re pretty easy.
BARRY: Oh. Well, thank you, guys, for the information and I hope you have a good day.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Hey, are you thinking about putting your house on the market? We’re going to highlight design trends that can actually help sell your home, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros, for free, at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Alright. But you’ve got two pros right here answering questions from The Money Pit Community section.
Now, Carol in Utah writes: “What should I do if I believe something was overlooked or just wrong in my new home’s report from the home inspector? I just discovered that I don’t have enough insulation in my attic. Shouldn’t I have been told that?”
TOM: You know, as a guy who was a home inspector for a good part of 20 years, I’d say no. It would have been a good advice to have but the fact that you don’t have enough insulation is – I mean first of all, whether or not you have “enough” is going to depend on when that house was built, because energy-efficiency standards change every couple of years. And almost all older homes could use more insulation. But I don’t think that’s a defect.
Look, if your floors had big holes in them and he didn’t tell you that, that’s one thing. But the fact that maybe you need some more insulation, it’s kind of an improvement, alright? So, I don’t think that that’s necessarily a defect of the home inspection report.
But here’s how you can tell for sure. If you go to the website for the American Society of Home Inspectors – that’s ASHI – A-S-H-I – .org or I think it’s also HomeInspector.org – you can download there these standards of practice for the home inspectors. And that basically – it says what should be and what’s not included in a home inspection. So it’s very clear as to what every element is that should be inspected. And you can kind of compare that against your inspection report and give you a better sense as to whether or not the pro you hired did the job that he or she was hired to do.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post here from Kate in Texas who writes: “I have an old ceramic-tile floor in my bathroom. A couple of tiles are chipped but I’m sure the manufacturer isn’t making them anymore. What can I do besides putting in a whole new floor?”
Well, Kate, sometimes you can alternate patterns in tiles. So maybe if you want to pop out the ones that are chipped and pop out a couple more to make something that looks like it’s there on purpose and put a new tile in – otherwise, reach out to the manufacturer. You never know. And there are a couple places online that you can send that tile to and they will match it for you.
TOM: Well, we see home trends come and home trends go but it seems that some changes are here to stay.
And Leslie, you’ve got some details on some that are going to stick around for a while, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: That’s right. Now, you guys, if you’re planning on putting your home on the market soon, there are a few key design trends that you should be aware of to help sell that home as quickly as possible. That’s really the goal: you list the house, you want to sell it fast. Don’t give yourself any time to rethink the whole thing. Get it over with.
Now, the key word here to remember, guys, is flexibility. Your rooms need to be able to be easily converted into another kind of space. Those potential buyers that are walking into your house, they want to see that they can accommodate someone who works from home, maybe an aging parent, a boomerang child just coming home from college. So many other different scenarios play out every day in everybody’s lives, so you want somebody who’s walking in the door as a potential buyer to look at your house and see those options.
Now, you might also think about adding some elements of universal design. Baby boomers are aging and not only are they caring for their elderly parents, they also want to know that their home can accommodate them themselves as their needs change with their own aging.
So, be flexible. Make those opportunities in your home so that you can see those offers coming in.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, when those leaves finally take a dive, it’s usually because of a massive rainstorm. And all of that wet fall mess, it has the potential for a very dangerous invader to form in your house and that’s mold. So we’re going to talk about how you can get rid of mold, when it’s a DIY project or when a pro is required and also whether or not you can get some insurance coverage on mold cleanups. That’s all coming up on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
From Source Article: moneypit.com