TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this beautiful fall weekend? If it’s your residence, you are in the right place because we are here to help you get those chores done. Whether you’re doing it yourself, hiring a pro- whether it’s repair, remodel, home renovation or maybe exactly planning for the future- give us a call right now. Let us talk you through it at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s prove, floors make up the largest horizontal surface in any dwelling. And fall is the most popular time of the year for an update. But with so many new types to choose from- and they are only stop rolling them out, folks- we’ve got hardwood, we’ve got engineered, we’ve got laminate, we’ve got vinyl, we’ve got engineered vinyl. I imply how do you know what’s right for you? We’re travelling to have some easy steps to help you choose, only ahead.
LESLIE: Plus, the gardening season is winding down but that doesn’t mean you have to give up on all those fresh veggies. A greenhouse can keep them stretching strong. We’re going to review some DIY options to build your own from kits.
TOM: And have you made a good look at your driveways and garage floorings or walkways and noticed some rifts? Well , the time is right to seal them up before winter’s frost designates in and represents them worse. We’ll have a guide on how to do time that.
LESLIE: But first, this show is about helping you with your own home decor and improvement questions. So call in your home improvement question now and you’re was just going to get the answer. Plus, today you’ll too get a chance at acquiring tools to assist you get the job done.
We’re featuring the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar-Clamp Package worth 80 bucks.
TOM: So, give us a call right now. The count is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. That’s 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Bob in Illinois is on the line and "workin on" a kitchen makeover. What can we do for you?
BOB: Oh, we’ve got kitchen cabinets- they’re probably close to 30 years old- and we’re wanting to remodel our kitchen and I’m wanting to strip them down. And I was just wondering what was the best way- what to use to get it on with.
TOM: Well, the very best information is that 30 -year-old cabinets are generally very, particularly well-built. You can’t really strip down a 10 -year-old cabinet, since they were pretty much come apart. But if it’s a 30 -year-old plywood cabinet, you can definitely row it.
Now, what do you want to do after you divest it? Do you want to coat it or do you want to go with a clearly defined veneer?
BOB: I’d like to go with a clear membrane on it. Maybe articulated a pecan finish on it or something.
LESLIE: And what’s on there now? Are they just discoloured or are they covered?
BOB: No, they’re time stained.
TOM: It’s hard to change the color of a stained board. I’m just telling you only be prepared for that. But what you might want to do is use a good-quality stripper. Like Rock Miracle, for example, is a good one.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, another thing that’s good to do is head over to your local mom-and-pop draw browse, because sometimes there are newer commodities who the hell is out there.
I was just getting some wallpaper adhesive but in that section, there were some certainly nice paint strippers. They apply a little differently, they go on more easily, they work more quickly. So I always merely pop into the shop to kind of accompany what they’ve get in there that they’ve worked with.
But Tom and I have both expended Rock Miracle and I like that because it gone on more like a glue, so you can really construe where it is, you can see it start to work. And I guess it depends on how much stain is on there, how dirty they are.
I would start by handing them a good clean. Then make sure they’re dried very well, then kept the stripper on them. Follow the directions. And you’re going to want to use a cable brushing and a dye scraper. And that’s going to get that finish off of there.
Now, it’s important to work on them on a flat skin-deep, so take all the doors and drawer front off. Label them as you take them down, with a piece of strip on the back surface of the members of the council doorway and one on the cabinet box itself so that you know exactly where things croak. And leave the hinges on the box places so that you can have the doors flat. These are things that are just tricks of the trade that will help you be more successful.
And if your openings are full overlay- are they or are they not?
BOB: Are they what now?
LESLIE: When your cabinet entrance closes, do you realize any of the cabinet box around it, like a frame? Or does the door cover it?
BOB: Yeah, it does; it flushes up against the enclose of the cabinet.
LESLIE: So, that’s a backing and a swear. Because then you can ignore the box or you can also work on the box while it’s in place, to strip that down, as well. And in that case, the Rock Miracle is really good because it’s certainly thick, so it’ll stay on in a horizontal predicament, as well. So, those are some good things.
And you may have to apply it more than formerly, depending on how well-adhered your discolour currently is. I mean you’ve certainly got to see. And then keep in mind that depending on the species of wood, the type of color that you might get from the stain that you’ve selected to go on there might be a little different. So you might want to work on a back side or a smaller area, just so you can see how it will respond and what emblazon you’ll actually end up with.
BOB: Thank you, then.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Dina in New Jersey on the line who’s dealing with something going on with the chimney. What’s happening? You’ve got grout crumble? What’s leading on there?
DINA: I have water, apparently, leaking in and it’s coming down around the fancy bricks of my hearth. Because I hear the cement disintegrating and I witness changes of- after a rain that I had, it’s darker over on the cement that’s crumbling.
I’ve had my chimney relined and I simply don’t know what it is. They said maybe it’s the flashing up on top that needs to be repointed and then it should be shut. I just don’t know where to start and I’m getting high-pitched, big-hearted prices.
TOM: Alright, Dina. This is a masonry chimney?
TOM: A brick chimney, yes. OK. Masonry chimney, OK. Same difference.
DINA: OK, thank you for being there for parties like me.
TOM: Alright. “No, it’s not masonry, it’s brick.” “Well, that clears it up.”
Alright, look, when you have a masonry/brick chimney, at the top there is a chimney cap, which is a concrete lip that becomes between the duct liner and the outside of the brick edge. And often, "when youve got" seeps, that concrete crack- cap is cracked. And it’s a very minor repair to seal those hits or even to oust those fractures- that concrete part. It’s just a little, perhaps 6-inch-deep section of concrete that’s sort of troweled between the clay vent liner and the outside edge of the brick.
So the first thing I would do is seal the chinks or rifts around that and see if that fixes it. Now, the openings are coming into the chimney. They’re not coming around the chimney by the ceiling, right? So that necessitates- that kind of eliminates flashing, because the flashing shuts the gap between the masonry chimney and the roof. And if the flashing was failed, then you would have, probably, openings when you look up at your ceiling. The chimney itself is disclosing, so the most common culprit is simply that concrete cap or that masonry detonator in all regions of the top of it.
The other thing that you could do is you could threw a chimney cap on this, because that has the effect of sort of arrange a ceiling over your chimney without actually blocking the chimney. And sometimes, that will dissuade the loudnes of irrigate from getting into it.
Now, the- one of the things I have to caution you about is that the chimney contractors- the chimney embroils- that do these sorts of fixings are a disingenuous radical. They’re not the most honest contractors out there and they almost always try to tell you a tale of woe, of fatality and destruction that will befall upon you unless you open your checkbook open wide and write them a big number. So, just be careful to find somebody reputable that can dig into what’s going on and really do what’s required but not an excessive extent of work on it, OK?
DINA: Uh-huh. They’ve also mentioned make repointing on the chimney and then waterproofing it.
TOM: If it turns out that the masonry is cracked or deteriorated or falling out between the bricks, certainly repointing- but I think it’s a lot simpler than that. I think most likely it’s just some minor cracks in the chimney cap.
DINA: Uh-huh. Because what they showed me was- they said, “See? There’s moss stretching here. So that means that there’s water in between the bricks.”
TOM: There’s always going to be water in a chimney. It’s a masonry structure; it holds moisture. And if you’ve went moss, you can settled a mildicide on it. You can settle a product like Concrobium on there that will kill that moss or another product announced Wet& Forget that will kill that moss. And then beyond that, you need to get to the source of the reveal, which I think is that chimney cap.
So let’s not overcomplicate it, OK? Let’s see if that thin concrete detonator is cracked and get that fixed.
DINA: Thank you so very much. And now I know that bricks are masonry. Thank you.
TOM: Alright. Thanks so much. Bye-bye.
LESLIE: John in Delaware is dealing with a spider problem. I can’t even talk about it for fear they will jump into my house. What’s going on?
JOHN: I moved to the beach about 10 years ago. I’m not- I’m 12 miles from the water but I don’t know whether that’s part of the problem or not. But "weve had" spiders inside the house all the time. They’re always in the corners of the apartment. It’s rare to come into any chamber and not have one. And it seems like as quickly as you be disposed of them, a week last-minute "youve had" more in the same ranges. And it is very annoying.
TOM: What do you do to get rid of them, John?
JOHN: The exclusively thing I do is I try to kill them and knock down their little web.
TOM: Good luck with that. That’s not working out too well for you, I gamble, huh?
JOHN: No, it’s not.
TOM: You’re not was just going to earn the fighting if that’s your therapy coming. The thing about insects today is the best way to control them is through science. And if you look at a company like Orkin - you are aware, a company that’s been around forever- these people know exactly what insecticide to put down, they know how to made it down in the right amounts and the products that they use today are very insect-specific.
It exerted to be that there was sort of a broad-spectrum pesticide that was put down. Today, the pesticides are very, very specific for the problem. And if I was dealing with this in my house, I wouldn’t be running around with my boot trying to kill them all. I would have the pesticide implemented within the right amounts, right place and be done with it.
So, I would recommend that you call Orkin and have that taken care of the right way. It’s safer to do that than to buy over-the-counter pesticides, which you end up over-applying- which are far more dangerous, in my opinion- and certainly a great deal less baffling than having to stomp them to extinction, OK?
So, I would application a pesticide to domination these spiders and that’s the best solution.
JOHN: OK. And you would not advise trying to do it on your own. You’d advise getting a company that’s- would pay them regularly to have them come back?
TOM: Yeah, you can’t buy the products that a professional can buy. They’re not available to the public because they have to be applied just right. That’s why it’s a good project to turn to a pro, like Orkin.
John, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breeze and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call anytime at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home service pros in your neighbourhood. You can predict reviews and book appointments all online.
Well, fall is the most popular time of year for adding brand-new floorings. But with so many types to choose from, how do you know what’s right for you? We’re going to have some easy steps to help you choose, in today’s Pro Project presentation by HomeAdvisor.com, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. Find top-rated home service pros and diary appointments online, all for free.
TOM: And if you call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, you might just win the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar-Clamp Package that we’ve got to give away. With these helpful fixes, you’ll be able to clamp with one handwriting. Plus, they always can be joined together to double-dealing the capacity for bigger jobs. You’re going to come two of the secures for an estimated value of 80 bucks.
That package is going out to one listener outlined at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Chris in Pennsylvania is having a problem with a dishwasher. What’s going on?
CHRIS: Bought a new house and I’m a first-time homeowner. And my home was built in 1957. And so, I was just wondering if I would have to hire separate people to work on the carpentry, the electric and the plumbing? Or is there somebody, like a regular contractor, that they are able to leant a dishwasher in?
TOM: Do you have a seat for a dishwasher right now, Chris? Or has one never been installed?
CHRIS: One’s never been installed.
TOM: OK. So you’ve got to figure out where you’re going to situated this and it’s going to take away from some board space.
Now, typically, the dishwasher is next to the kitchen sink. And if you happen to have, say, a 24 -inch closet next to your kitchen capsize, that will be the perfect place to do that. But this is going to take a bit of cultivate. You’re departing is essential to do carpentry and I think you’ll need a carpenter and probably a plumber to do this. And you may need an electrician, depending on whether or not the plumber could do the wire for you or if there’s wire right there you are able to drag from.
Because what has to happen is you’d remove the cabinet to create that 24 -inch gap, then the dishwasher would slip in there. And it needs to be plumbed, so you need to have the ply position and the pump run mostly through the side cabinet wall, where the settle is, and tap into the plumbing there. Then, of course, it needs to have electricity, so you’ll need to have an outlet installed. So it is a bit of development projects, I’ll say to you that.
LESLIE: Yeah. But if she were to hire somebody like a general contractor- who have been able those subs in his arsenal, if you are able to, or at least access to those people- they would better supervise the entire project and sort of take all of that worry out of your hands.
TOM: Or just a really good handyman. The hassle is that, theoretically, or at least technically speaking, you need a licensed plumber to do the plumbing employ and you need a licensed electrician to do the electrical work.
TOM: Alright, Chris?
CHRIS: Alright. I recognize your advice.
TOM: Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, flooring is playing a key role in your mansion. And refurbishes can increase your home’s appraise, esthetics and function. But the choices for the different types of flooring is really be dizzying. So before you start tearing up carpet, we’ve got a few things to consider, in today’s Pro Project presentation by HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Now, first, you want to think about what flooring fits the road "youre living in" a particular room.
So, for example, if you or your kids are spending a lot of time baby-sit or dallying on the floor, carpet or area rugs could be the way to go. But if allergies are an issue, wood storeys, tile, laminate, engineered vinyl, those types of surfaces might be better.
LESLIE: Now, cost of each kind of material are going to vary widely and depending on the quality and of course, square footage.
Now, the labor penalties can dwarf the material expense. So the harder the flooring is to install, the more the labor is going to cost.
TOM: But before you make choices about where to cut those costs and where to splurge, it actually comes down to the flooring itself. Keep in subconsciou that floors get more wear and tear than any other part of the house. So you might save money up-front buying lower-grade materials and doing the station yourself but it could provided free of charge more in the long run.
LESLIE: Now, you’ve got to think carefully about the use of the room, traffic patterns, kids, domesticateds and anything else that can do damage to your flooring. Also, thoughts about that room’s location. If the flooring is for a lavatory, kitchen or basement, water-resistant has got to be important. But fortunately, the authorities have so many new hand-pickeds in laminates and engineered vinyls that really closely imitation the gape of for-real wood floorings that you can consider something that actually is like the real deal.
TOM: Now, one cost that homeowners often forget- but we don’t want you to forget- is preparing the subfloor. If you don’t happen to have a clean, flat, position surface, you may need a contractor to do the prep drive before you are able to put down any flooring materials.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your province, compare prices, speak confirmed reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No content the type of job, HomeAdvisor induces it fast and easy to hire very best local pros.
LESLIE: Stuart in Louisiana is on the line and has a question about light bulbs. What can we do for you?
STUART: I was curious about choosing the correct kind of light bulb- fluorescent versus LED- and what wattage if I- whichever one I choose.
TOM: So, compact-fluorescent technology is pretty much fading now- amnesty the pun- and I think what you really want to look at is some of the many selections in LEDs. In terms of wattage, you are aware, it’s not really measured in wattage anymore; it’s measured in lumens. But generally speaking, if you do hear a wattage gauge on the bulb, it’s going to be about 25 percent of what you’re access to going in terms of light output.
So, for example, a bulb that would deliver the equivalent of around 100 watts of light, that you might be used to in an incandescent bulb, is only going to use about 25 watts or less of electricity, exclusively because it’s that much more efficient. A pile of kinfolks don’t recognize that wattage is a measure of power; it’s not a measure of dawn. Light’s measured by lumens. But we’re just so accustomed, over the years, to choosing the wattage when it comes to bulb and understanding how much light-headed that delivers.
But if you’re trying to figure out about what the shift proportion is, it’s about 25 percent. It exercises about 25 percent of the power to deliver the same ignited that you would’ve goes out of, say, the 100 -watt incandescent bulb in my lesson. Do that make sense?
STUART: It can certainly. So what lumen wander would I be mostly looking forward to if I demanded to have the same quantity of wattage- I’m sorry- same sum of light as a 100-watt light bulb?
TOM: Good question. A 100 -watt incandescent bulb is going to deliver about 1,600 lumens. So, not that easy to do the math. It’s not really convenient. But that’s what it is. A 100 -watt bulb delivers about 1,600 lumens; 75 -watt bulb would deliver around, say, 1,000 to 1,100 lumens. So that’s the compas that you’re glancing for.
STUART: Fantastic. Thank you very much for your assistance.
TOM: Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Give us a announce with your dwelling repair or home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Hey, how about building a greenhouse in order to be allowed to have fresh veggies all time long? We’re going to help you out with some DIY tips-off to get that job done, after this.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a label, right now, with your drop-off home improvement questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. It’s my favorite epoch of the year because it’s not too hot and not too cold. You can get pretty much any racket done around your home, inside or out. And we are here to help. Whatever is on your to-do list, slip it over to ours by cry us at 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Bob in South Dakota is dealing with a drywall issue. What’s going on at your house?
BOB: We have a 1990 s residence and we had sheetrock nails that were put in that began popping, mainly toward the ceiling area and angles- inside regions- especially. And we had a contractor do- redo some. We redid some ourselves. One of the things they did and we did is we just drove the nails in and reported them and made a clamp maybe 2 to 3 inches from it. But the nails reappeared after we did it. What’s the answer?
TOM: Well, it would if you time drove it back in and didn’t framed a second nail that overlaps it.
LESLIE: And then it’s in the same hole, so it’s given the same movement area.
Now, what Tom mentioned with the second nail is you’re right putting a pin in; a clamp is a great way to do that. But if you’re putting a screwing in, I would have made out the fingernail instead of giving it the room to come back out.
But what you can do, if you learn the nail to start backing its way out, you can take a second nail and overlap it so that the two heads would overlap. So when you drive in the second nail, it pushes that first nail back down with it and will keep it in its region. Because the new tack is in fresh wood, so it’ll stay there. And then you go ahead and mask over it and sand it and spackle it, everything. Make it delightful and smooth to prime and paint.
But a screw really is the best way, because those won’t back themselves out.
BOB: What do you think, in your professional ruling- I’ve listened to your indicate a good deal and just as a plug for you guys, thanks a lot for all of the useful hints. But what do you think has caused those screwings to pop like that- or fingernails, I should say?
TOM: Ordinary expansion and reduction. You know, the claws that are used to attach drywall have a adhesive coating on them. They’re like a rosin coating. And when you drive the claw in, it’s supposed to kind of stick in the wall but it doesn’t. And as the walls expand and contract, they very often will back out. It’s really usual. It would be singular for it, frankly, to not happen.
But the key is that when it does happen, if you just drive it back in it’s going to happen all over again. But if you were to overlap the old-fashioned nailhead with a brand-new nailhead so that you’re now developing kind of a second nail and a second nail hole that’s propping it in place, that’s effective. Or you draw out the drywall hammer absolutely and supersede it with a drywall screwing and it will never pull out.
The fact that you articulated the screwing 2 or 3 inches from the old-fashioned one will help keep that council tight but it’s not going to stop the drywall nail from expanding and contracting and propagandizing itself back out, as you’ve learned. You precisely - you really need to sort of reinforce it by overlapping the heads with a new nail.
BOB: OK. Yeah, that sounds good. And I see, from what I’ve participate, if we draw the age-old nail and kept a bolt in a ways away, I think that’s the best solution. Because then we don’t have any possibility of anything happening there again and doing away with developments in the situation completely.
TOM: Trial and flaw is the best, right?
BOB: Absolutely. Thank you guys so much. Thank you for the great show.
TOM: Alright. Thanks so much for entitle us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, now that it’s the drop season, are you thinking how are you going to have those fresh veggies at my fingertips all time long? Well, you can if "were living" in a four-season climate but maybe you don’t have that option. You can, though, if you build or buy a greenhouse.
So, if you think building a greenhouse is a big deal, it actually doesn’t have to be. You’ve came restriction opening, a mini-greenhouse is a great option. There are small and portable options that can fit into a narrow sphere. There’s low-pitched tunnel-style greenhouses. That’s another one. And because of their size, they can be used and then readily removed and stored.
TOM: Now, prefab is another way to go from there. These greenhouses are often sold as kits. They’ve came openings, they’ve went shelves and they can take up only 30 or 40 square paws of space.
But if you’re lucky enough to have a larger piece of land, you can add a traditional greenhouse. That’s always fun. This type of structure has walls and a ceiling that are made from, usually, a see-through material, generally glass but sometimes plastic or acrylic. And the glass can capture heat in the structure while protecting the inside from these components, like freezing and blizzard and wind.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, greenhouses are typically fitted with counters or shelves on which you are able to germinate the seeds. Generally, those kinds of greenhouses are manually heated, which is really great if you do live in a cooler climate.
TOM: Now, we’ve got a very detailed announce on all the options with greenhouses, on MoneyPit.com. So check it out. It’s called “Grow Fresh Veggies All Year Long, ” and is on the home page, right now, at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Trudy in Delaware needs some promotion jazzing up her brick home. What can we do for you?
TRUDY: I have a single-family house and the locate of it is not finished, from the soil up to where the siding starts. And I’m are looking forward to is common knowledge that I could use on that so I have a more finished look.
TOM: So is it a brick groundwork, Trudy?
TRUDY: No , no. It’s a brick figurehead and then the sides and the back is surfacing. But from the grime- from the ground up to where the siding starts is about maybe 2 feet. It’s merely basic cement, unfinished seem. And I wanted to know what I( inaudible ).
TOM: Right. There’s a couple things you can do. You can do something real simple, like cover it. You would use a masonry coat for that exterior. Masonry paint.
The other thing that you could do is you could stucco that. Now, that’s a little bit more work but there are premixed stucco desegregates that you can buy at a home core. And with a few cases tools, you could apply a stucco to that, perhaps situated a little of a motif on it. And it is required to do that, though, by following all the right stairs for prep. Because if you don’t get it right, it’ll freeze and break off.
But those would be the two easiest ways to clean that up.
TRUDY: OK. So, yeah, I didn’t crave something to start chipping off or the cover to start slinking( ph ).
TOM: Right. Well, that’s why you’ve got to use the right products with the cover. You’ve got to prime it and you’ve got to use an exterior-quality masonry colour. And kind of the same thing with the stucco. You’ve got to use the right tools and the claim application methods and make sure it’s nice and clean and cool when you start and it’ll hold up neatly. Alright, Trudy?
TRUDY: OK. Thank you so much.
TOM: Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime 24 hours per day, 7 days a week at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Just ahead, have you make a good look at your driveway, the garage floor, walkways? Maybe you’re seeing some crannies? Well , the time is right to shut those up before the winter’s frost really provides in and exclusively acquires them worse. We’re going to have a guide to do only that, next.
TOM: Where home answers live, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it cost to do your dwelling assignment before you hire a pro and instantly diary one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
TOM: And if you do give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, you’ll get the answer to your home improvement question and a chance at prevailing a really fun tool pack we’re giving away.
We’ve got the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar Clamps to give away. And I love these clamps because they’re very easy to use. In fact, you can clamp with one hand, which is handy, extremely if you’re impounding the project together with the other while you get the clamp in place. Plus, if you’ve got a really big project, well, they can be joined together and that can double the capacity for those big projects.
You’re going to come two of the E-Z Hold Medium-Duty Expandable Bar Clamps for a total quality of 80 bucks if you pick up the phone and call us right now. We might just draw your reputation out of that group of folks and hold those fixes to you. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ryan in Georgia is in hot water, literally. What’s going on at your money cavity, Ryan?
RYAN: Something kind of bested me for a little bit. I’ve got an idea of what it might be but I’m not 100 -percent sure. I’ve got something that I have, which is very- it’s always really hot in Georgia about 80 percent of the time. And every time, when we turn- during the day, we turn on the cold water. It’s scalding, scalding hot for about two to four minutes and it depends- that the section on, I guess, what time of day it is. But the- I could even turn on the hot water and the hot water will be a lot colder than the cold water. And eventually, it will get colder. But I checked every other water source in my house.
I’ve checked the shower and the showers are fine; it’s not affected whatsoever. The alone thing, assuming- that I think it might be, which you guys probably know further information on this than I do is- the reason why it’s not doing it in the showers- because that has the- I don’t know if you want to call it the “thermostat” or a “temperature gauge” that controls the cold water and the hot water that makes sure it’s not too hot. And I imagine, since we’re in Georgia, a great deal of the pipes are in the attic and attics. When it’s most- when it’s 90 to 100 magnitudes out, they- comes moderately red-hot in our attics.
TOM: Well, I think you’re right on track with that ideology, Ryan, because I’ve seen that in my own home in New Jersey. I know it’s not in every fixture, of course, because it genuinely depends on how the pipes are moved. But I know that the nature my kitchen is built, it was sort of an- it’s an addition that was done in the early 1900 s. And the plumbing on that is sort of the- on the furthermost southern wall.
It gets very, very warm there during the day and sometimes, when we don’t implement it all day- and then I turn it on, I do get hot water through the coldnes faucet. And I know that’s exactly because the pipings in that area are being exposed to a lot of heat. And the hoses are just warming up and it’s warming the irrigate in turn. But after that warm water that’s in those pipes that are right in that encircling area leads through information systems, it gets cold again.
So I think that’s exactly what you’re seeing here. I don’t necessarily think it’s a problem. It’s more of an annoyance and yes, it does squander a little bit of water. But does this happen in the winter or is it simply a summertime question?
RYAN: No, no. Not 100 percentage if it happens in the winter. But it might but I know even our attics sometimes, in the winter, does get pretty decently heated, extremely. But the- I know it’s unquestionably in the spring, come and summer.
TOM: I imply the only thing that you could do is you could segregate those pipings. If you can get access to them, you have been able lean fiberglass insulating sleeves around your cold-water pipes and that would prevent them from overheating as they are right now.
RYAN: That’ll even make a difference, even though they’re- all the piping is all in the attic? The attic’s fairly hot.
TOM: Well, right, wherever they’re heating up. And that spray gets to your faucet from the attic really quick.
RYAN: Alright. So merely a fiberglass sleeve? I’ve seen a little- looks like foam- pitch-black foam sleeves. Does that the project works, extremely?
TOM: Yeah. You could do that, too. I meditate the fiberglass sleeves are a little bit most expensive but they’ll work better.
RYAN: OK. Yeah, I’ll obviously do that then.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck with that project, Ryan. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT. Glad we were able to solve that mystery.
LESLIE: Well, winter is likely to be upon us in exactly two or three more months. And when that cold locateds in, small-scale crackings that you may have in your driveway, the garage flooring or walkways can get filled with water that’s going to freeze and expand and it’s was just going to attain them a lot bigger. That’s why now is the best time to seal those up before winter’s frost sets in and establishes them worse.
Well, QUIKRETE has a line of commercial-grade sealants and adhesives that can suit any concrete or masonry fixing that you are required to. And they shared some tips-off on how to handle two types of sounds, in particular.
TOM: Yeah. So, first, let’s talk about small hits. And I define those as less than 1/4-inch wide. These are most likely the result of shrinkage as the concrete cures. And they’re really easy to repair exploiting QUIKRETE’s Advanced Polymer Concrete Crack Sealant.
This product is super adaptable so formerly it’s worked, it can expand and contract with the sound and therefore, thwart ocean from- and therefore protect the liquid from seeping in and performing the hit worse.
LESLIE: Now, for bigger fissures or chinks in expansion joints that can get filled with a lot of grime, QUIKRETE makes an Advanced Polymer Self-Leveling Sealant that’s super effective in load those divergences and stopping sea from extending for the purposes of the concrete slab, which can lead to bigger problems with settlement and cracks.
Now, for that concoction, it’s best to clean out the divergences of grime or dusts, fill in the gaps with sponsor rod first and then apply the sealant over the rod.
TOM: And now is a really important time to do this, because if that liquid gets in there it’s going to freeze and it’s going to expand and it’s going to oblige the concrete a lot worse over this winter. So, make love formerly, make love right, you won’t have to make love again.
The QUIKRETE Advanced Polymer sealants and cements are solvent- and isocyanurate-free, so you’ll get an environmentally-friendly and exceedingly superior solution to traditional polyurethane technology. They’ve got a fast-cure technology, as well. It becomes tack-free in about an hour. They’re accessible at home centers and lumberyards throughout the U.S. for between six and eight bucks a tube.
QUIKRETE. It’s what America is made of. Learn more at QUIKRETE.com.
LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime with your home restore or residence increase question 24 hours a day, 7 days a few weeks at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Just ahead, in numerous territories, showers in residences that have windows aren’t required to have exhaust supporters, which is a real hassle for homeowners. We’ll talk through the fix, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a occupation. Use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others have paid under same assignments, all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
And don’t forget you can always pole your question on Money Pit’s Facebook page or right in The Money Pit Community section, just like Ronnie did in California.
Now, Ronnie writes: “My house was built in 1960 and there are no exhaust fans in the bathroom. I’d like to put up crown molding in the lavatories but is it going to swell from the moisture? Is there a certain type that I should be using? ”
TOM: You know, it is true that if you have a window in your lavatory, that house codes will not require you to have an deplete follower. So, it’s kind of dumb because who is going to open up the windows in January? Well, maybe in California you would- in Southern California- but certainly not in the East Coast or anywhere in between.
But look, if you’re worried about moisture, you should be putting up composite molding. It’s made of PVC and it can’t rot. But there are bigger sweat headaches that you’ll need to deal with, like molding and mildew. So, I would definitely explore ways to get a bath exhaust fan in that room, even though it is you have to run it up through the attic and out, in terms of the exhaust ducting. Because not having that humidity showing out can lead to a lot of mildew and mildew questions that you just really do want to avoid.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, Patricia in Buffalo writes: “My heating greenbacks have been really high and I’m thinking about beefing up isolation before the winter establisheds in. I’m interested to know the difference between fiberglass and newer spray-foam insulation.”
TOM: That’s a great question. Fiberglass, of course, is the traditional separation. The major difference is that when you introduced that in your attic, you have to vent it because your attics are going to be moist and mute and the fiberglass "re going to have to" be bone-dry to work properly.
In my house, I actually had fiberglass. I left it in place but then I computed scatter foam to the underside of the roof sheathing and totally shut in the attic. And I have never been more comfy and my legislations have never been lower, because that insulation shall not be required to be ventilated. So once you get it on, you can basically close up all of the volcanoes because the attic becomes, essentially, an extension of your living space.
LESLIE: Well, experience preventing those heating statements down in a much warmer mansion this winter.
TOM: Well, are you new to the fanciful life of its ownership? Well, then, exceedingly shortly, you’re probably "il be going" brand-new to the splendid macrocosm of dwelling improvement, as well. We’re going to have some gratuities to help you get started on your very first assignments. Leslie has some gratuities, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
Leslie? Always a project that it is important to done.
LESLIE: Seriously. But first, congratulations. You’re the proud owned of your unusually first home. Now what?
Well, like a newborn, a home’s got to be cared for and desired and likewise, like a newborn, nobody gives you regulations on how to take care of it, whether it’s a house or that babe. So, here’s actually what it comes down to: as a first-time homeowner, it’s your job to maintain your dwelling year-round.
So, the first thing to do is invest in the tools that you need to do that. Now, a essential toolbox should include a mallet, some screwdrivers, a pry bar, a level and an adjustable wrench. You can add some superpower implements later or right away but you should include a drill and a circ interpret. Those tend to really cros all the bases.
Now, understanding the basics of your home’s mechanical systems is absolutely necessary. So spawn sure you know where your water-main line is, how to slam it off if there’s an emergency. And get acquainted with that fuse or breaker chest. And remember that home ownership throws you in charge of covering all of those utilities. So, if the initial months in your new abode have given you sticker outrage over ability and ocean expenditures, take some steps to manage your power dollars.
Finally, even if you’re in a brand-new home that’s under warranty, it’s wise to have a contingency fund to cushion those curveballs that life could hurl at every homeowner. If you crave some more enormous gratuities, simply Google “money quarry first-time homeowner tips.”
TOM: The objective is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, the most active part of typhoon season is upon us and no one is more vulnerable than our senior citizens, especially if they live alone. We’re exiting to have gratuities to assist you impede those important kinfolks in your life safe from weather disasters, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t "re going to have to" get it on alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio record may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Yield, Inc .)
A ceiling fan is a great way to make any room more comfortable. It can also help reduce your home’s heating and cooling costs. To replace a light fixture with a fan, all you’ll need is about two hours and some basic supplies. Here’s what you’ll need for this intermediate-level project:
TOOLSCircuit Tester Ladder Philips Screwdriver Flat Head Screwdriver Wire Cutter Wire Stripper Tongue & Groove Pliers Mini Hacksaw
MATERIALSElectrical Tape Ceiling Fan Cable Clamp Connectors Electrical Box – Fan Rated And/or Fan Hanger Kit
To replace a light fixture, be sure to equip yourself with the proper safety gear. Throughout the video, we’ll alert you regarding when you should and should not use the safety gear.
Turn off circuit. Start by turning off the breaker connected to the circuit you’ll be working on. Confirm the power is off by switching on the fixture. If it doesn’t turn on, you’re ready to begin.
Remove old fixture. Remove the glass cover and light bulbs from your old fixture. Fixtures are typically held in place with screws and a mounting strap. Loosen the screws, twist the base and then pull the base over the hole. Test each wire with a non-contact circuit tester to avoid dangerous shocks.
Disconnect old fixture and strap. Cut any wires connected to the old fixture and, if necessary, remove the mounting strap. Remove the wire nuts, untwist the wires, and disconnect the ground wire from the fixture box with a screwdriver. You’ll be left with a white wire, a black wire, and a bare wire.
Remove old fixture box. Conventional light fixture boxes aren’t strong enough to support a fan, so you’ll need to replace it with one that’s fan rated. If your current fixture box is screwed to a ceiling joist, simply remove the screws. If it’s nailed to a joist accessible from an attic, use a hammer or pry bar to remove the box and nails. If your fixture box is hanging from a strap, remove the nut or screw holding it in place. You may need to use a mini hacksaw to remove the strap to make room for the new electrical box.
Install brace. Your fan-rated box will need to be supported by ceiling joists. If you have an attic that enables access from above, you can use a box that attaches to the joist. Without attic access, you’ll need a fan brace that can be installed from below. Fan braces are typically sold as a kit that includes a brace, box and bracket or U-bolt. Slip the brace into the ceiling hole with its feet on the inside of the drywall and its bar centered over the hole. Twist the bar until both ends meet the joists, then tighten with tongue and groove pliers.
Prep new box. Preparing your new fixture box before you install it will make installation much easier. Start by punching out holes for your wires, then install cable connectors, making sure you’ll be able to access the screws if you need to make adjustments. Screw the green grounding screw into the designated hole.
Install box. Slip the U-bolt or bracket over the brace, then feed the wires through the cable connectors. Line up the bracket and box screw holes, then secure the nuts provided in your kit. This may take a little patience.
Install fan mounting bracket. This installation features a pass-through, with light switches on each side of the room and two sets of wires. You’ll need to prep these wires before installing the mounting bracket. To do this, screw the ground wire into the box, using the extra wire to twist both ground wires together. If necessary, use wire strippers to remove about three-eighths of an inch of insulation from each wire. Twist the black wires together and secure with a wire connector. These wires are a pass-through. You won’t need them when installing the fan. Twist the white wires together, then attach the mounting bracket to the fan box using the screws included in your kit.
Assemble and attach blades. Each blade typically features three holes to attach it to the fan or blade irons. Attachment methods vary, so be sure to check manufacturer instructions before you begin. Attach each blade to the bottom of the motor with the screws provided, making sure each is tight.
Secure down rod to motor. Secure the down rod to the motor. In most cases, the down rod will be threaded into the motor housing and secured with one or more setscrews.
Prepare wires and hang fan. Place the canopy over the down rod, leaving it loose. Then hang the motor by inserting the ball on the down rod into the bracket.
Wire the fan. The fan motor’s grounding wire is typically green, bare or sometimes covered in a color noted by the manufacturer. There may also be a grounding wire attached to the hanger. Use a wire connector to secure them to the ground wire from the power cable. Connect the white wire from the box to the white fan wire and the black wire from the box to the black fan wire. Secure the canopy against the ceiling with screws provided.
Assemble the light fixture. Attach the fixture according to the manufacturer’s instructions and install light bulbs. Turn on the power at the breaker box and enjoy the cool breeze coming from your new fan!
The post How To Replace A Light Fixture With A Ceiling Fan | Video appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by to help you take on your home improvement projects, solve your remodeling challenges, your décor dilemmas. If you’re enjoying a beautiful weekend, that’s cool. You can stay in the lounge chair with the cool drink. But if you’re thinking about getting a project done or you’re in the midst of one, we can help. But help yourself first: post your question to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com or call us, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s show, we’re about halfway through summer, which means, Leslie, it’s that time of year when millions of folks transform their garages and yards into a storefront to get rid of the junk they no longer want, right?
LESLIE: Yes. There’s even a National Garage Sale Day. It’s held every year on the second Saturday of August.
TOM: Well, whether you want to clear clutter or maybe make a few bucks or both, we’re going to have some tips to help your garage sales go smoothly.
LESLIE: Yeah, like telling people no early birds. Because man, they will show up at 4:00 a.m. They are serious about it.
Also ahead this hour, guys, now that we are moving towards the end of the summer, have you taken a good look at your driveway? Late summer and early fall are really the best times to replace worn, cracked driveways. We’re going to have some tips to help you hire the best pro to get that job done, in today’s Pro Project, coming up.
TOM: And also ahead, if you’ve got kids that are old enough to stay home, are they also old enough to handle a home-related emergency? We’ll help you prepare them for the basics of what could go wrong.
LESLIE: But before all that, we’d love to hear from you. Post your question to The Money Pit Community page or give us a call right now. We’re here to help.
TOM: The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Amanda in Connecticut is on the line with an A/C system that’s not doing the C part of the cooling. What’s going on, Amanda?
AMANDA: Hi. I don’t really know. It’s a brand-new system.
LESLIE: Brand new as in the entire central air-conditioning system is new to the house or just a new condensing unit outside?
AMANDA: The new condensing unit. The house already had the venting in it but it didn’t have the unit.
TOM: OK. So they added the compressor outside, correct?
TOM: And who did this work? Was it a contractor?
AMANDA: Uh-huh, yeah.
TOM: Did they not test it to make sure it was working?
AMANDA: They said they would come back when it was hot. And so I called them and – the hot day. And they came back and it just didn’t cool after four hours. And he told me it’s because the house is an older house and that the returns are on the outside walls and makes it harder for it to cool down – longer for it to cool down?
TOM: Well, look. You hired these guys to complete your cooling system. So, any good contractor is going to look at the house and they’re going to identify any problems with the size of the ducts or where the ducts are run. They’re going to make sure that they’re sized properly.
Do we know that the compressor is actually working outside?
AMANDA: Yeah. They did – they came back again after that and made sure that it had the Freon in it and checked to make sure that it was working properly.
TOM: Well, obviously, something is not working properly, OK? And it’s either the compressor or there could be something with the way the ducts are installed. I can’t begin to diagnose it for you except to tell you that it’s not right. The contractor should know better than this. I don’t think you’re getting the best advice or service from this contractor, because it shouldn’t be that difficult for an HVAC contractor to figure out why a house is not getting cool. This is their business.
So, if you’re not getting anywhere with these guys, you might want to think about bringing in another contractor to get a second opinion, maybe not even share with them that you had this unit installed recently and see if they can figure out why it’s not cooling. See what kind of advice you get.
But it seems to me that this first contractor had a responsibility to do what it takes or at least to complete the job or advise you if there was something that was going to prevent the compressor from cooling the house. Then why were they willing to sell you the compressor in the first place? You see what I mean? They’re the experts here.
AMANDA: He’s saying to me that four hours is not a long time.
TOM: That’s not true at all. That’s ridiculous.
AMANDA: I pretty much said I had to go outside to cool off.
TOM: Listen, I would get another contractor or an expert in there to find out why exactly it’s not working, take a look at all the things that impact cooling. And then at least you’ll know what was done or not done and you can take it from there. But it doesn’t sound to me like you’re getting the best advice here.
AMANDA: Thank you and I love listening to your show.
TOM: Oh, thank you very much. And I hope we’ve helped you out. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Scott in West Virginia is on the line with a kitchen faucet that’s leaking. Tell us what’s going on.
SCOTT: Well, I’ve got a little problem in my kitchen. My wife is driving me crazy about it and it’s driving me crazy, also.
TOM: Alright. What’s going on?
SCOTT: Most of the time, you have a drippy faucet in your kitchen or something like that. My problem is is that it’s leaking around the handles: the hot and cold. And I’ve never had that to happen before and I’m like, “OK. Do I have to replace the whole thing or is there a kit that I can buy that – to stop this mess?”
TOM: Do you know what manufacturer of the faucet you have?
SCOTT: I knew you were going to ask me that and I thought about looking and I just didn’t. And I believe it’s Delta but I’m not sure about that.
TOM: See, here’s the thing. If you can identify the manufacturer, you can get a rebuild kit with new washers and so on for those faucets. But if you can’t figure it out, do not ever use a generic. Because if you use a generic, even though it looks perfectly, it doesn’t fit.
Now, that said, if it’s an older faucet and you replace it now, the new faucets are going to have ceramic discs – ceramic disc valves – which the older they are, the tighter they get. So they really never leak. So the technology has gotten so much better now with the way faucets are made that you might want to consider just replacing it, rather than trying to take it apart and put it back together and maybe they’ll still leak.
SCOTT: Right. It’s probably, I’d say, 10 or 12 years old, so …
TOM: Yeah. Might be due for a new one.
Hey, listen, we saw one not too long ago that actually is a touch – motion-activated that – Moen makes it. It’s called – I think it’s called MotionSense. And you wave your hand over the top of this thing and it comes on or you bring a dish sort of up to it and automatically it comes on. Or it has a regular …
LESLIE: It’s like, “Look, I’m washing your dish.”
TOM: Or like a regular faucet. Right. It’s like how many times do you walk up to the faucet to fill your cup – coffee cup – up or to rinse it out, I mean? Just by walking up to it, it comes on.
LESLIE: Or with your hands from chicken breasts, you know? It’s like you don’t want to touch the faucet.
TOM: Yeah. Yeah, that was pretty cool. So I think it’s called MotionSense. It’s by Moen.
SCOTT: OK. That sounds worth looking into.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck, Scott.
SCOTT: OK. Thanks, you guys, for the info.
TOM: You’re very welcome. And make your wife happy and replace it, will you?
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Still ahead, summer is always the best time of year to turn your trash into someone else’s treasure. We’re going to have tips for a great garage, yard or tag sale, after this.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to hear from you. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where you can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and book appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Jim in California needs help with a decking project. What can we do for you today?
JIM: I’ve got two decks that I rebuilt approximately three summers ago and had never treated them. Did a real nice job: mitered corners, rounded everything, routed everything. And of course, not treating them, they have weathered and I need to clean them.
LESLIE: OK. And so your issue is you’re seeing some wear and tear but the big problem is discoloration?
JIM: Yes. The oxidization.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. So everything looks a little gray and just weathered?
LESLIE: Now, with the discoloration, that’s normal wear and tear of any type of wood surface. And if you were to just, say, put a sealer on there, yes, you’re going to protect the wood from any further cracking or checking and you may help it, depending on the kind that you use, from further damage from, say, the sun. But if you want the color to be really what you restore, you’re going to have to go with a stain that has a color in it.
So depending on the condition of that decking, you can go with a semi-transparent, which will deposit color on but still allow you to see the condition of the wood through it, you know, through the stain itself. Or you can go with a solid stain, which gives you a little bit of longer time between having to refinish it, gives you more protection because it is a further saturation of color and a heavier pigmentation of color. So it really depends on what kind of look you want and really, the condition of the wood itself.
JIM: Yes. Well, my wife wants me to bring the color back.
TOM: That color is long gone, my friend. You can’t bring it back once it grays out like that but you can restore it if you stain it, like Leslie suggested. And you can use semi-transparent or solid color and it will look really good and you’ll still see the grain. So you’re not going to lose the grain of the wood. But once it turns gray like that, you’re not going to be able to restore it unless you sand it and that’s really pretty much a waste of effort.
LESLIE: Well, with the last blast of garage-sale season ahead, it’s a good time and a great reminder to dig into those crammed storage spaces, get organized and make a profit in the process.
TOM: Yeah. Now, to get started, lightening your load is a lot easier when you have a system. So, here’s kind of our system. When you go through belongings, you want to sort them into piles of things to keep, things to trash and things to sell. Now, once you’ve taken out the trash and reorganized the keepers, you can team up with neighbors and friends to come up with a good selection of good-quality items.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, remember this, guys: the serious shoppers, they come early. So be prepared with your best wares a few minutes before the start time listed in your ad. Also, guys, though, they will come very, very, very early. So be prepared for that. You also want to be careful about selling things that may have updated safety features, like baby furniture, car seats. Those things you have to be super careful about.
Now, furniture, housewares, electronics, even kids’ sporting equipment, they always sell very, very well. So if you’ve got those, you could be sitting on some cash.
TOM: And you might be surprised how much new space you’ll create by cleaning things out and how much money you’ll make by letting go of what you don’t need.
Now, if the garage-sale idea is not for you, we’ve got a great post on MoneyPit.com called “How to Sell Your Stuff Online in the Age of Apps.” We walk you through all of the latest apps that are out there for selling stuff online. It’s never been easier and frankly, you may even make more money doing it that way than having that sale, because you have a much bigger marketplace of everybody across the country that might be interested in your stuff. So check it out, online, at MoneyPit.com: “How to Sell Your Stuff in the Age of Apps.”
LESLIE: Tracy in Texas is on the line and needs some help with a universal-design project. Tell us what you’re working on.
TRACY: I have a daughter who’s 21 years old and we need some help when it comes to bathing her. We’re looking at doing a bathroom addition onto her room but we don’t even know, really, how to get started. Do we need to consult with an architect on the design advice? She’s homebound, medically fragile, 100-percent disabled and we just are looking at some advice on how to even get started to meet her needs so that we only have to do this one time.
LESLIE: Is a tub situation easier for you or is a shower?
TRACY: Probably a shower.
LESLIE: OK. Because there are the tubs with the doors that open. It depends on how difficult it would be to sort of move her from chair to seated tub position. It just depends on how comfortable you are with the bathing situation, if you want to get in there and get wet.
But Tom and I have actually done a lot of work with universal design and are quite familiar with some of the processes.
TOM: Well, that’s right. And I do think it’s a good idea to use a certified kitchen-and-bath designer and that’s somebody who is going to be specializing in universal design. You’re going to ask specifically for someone that has that talent, because they’re going to be up-to-speed on the best products that are out there for your particular situation, be able to recommend appropriately and you’re going to get a bathroom that actually looks nice and functions well for you.
I would not, would not call a standard remodeling contractor. Because a remodeling contractor will say, “Yeah, I understand. I know what to do.” And you know what? They just don’t, because it’s very specialized.
In fact, some years ago, Leslie, didn’t the AARP have a special certification program for contractors and architects that were working with universal-design situations?
LESLIE: They did. It was through the Homebuilders Association. And they had a special course that you could take to become certified as a universal-design specialist. So you might want to start with the AARP’s website, just to find some recommendations of folks in your area who are certified. I believe it was called the CAPS – Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist – Program.
And even though that’s not necessarily your need, it has similar associations. So you might want to start there as far as just trying to find somebody who can help you find the right products. Because you want something that looks good; you don’t want it to feel like a hospital. You want it to function and you want it to be done right the first time.
TOM: They have a lot of resources for universal design. Probably the best collection anywhere online is on the AARP website. You just simply click on the Home & Family section and then Home Improvement and you’ll find a lot there.
They also have a section on livable communities, because the universal design just makes sense for folks of any age, whether you are a senior citizen, whether you are disabled or whether you are just a mom that comes home with her arms full of grocery bags and needs to pop open a door with her elbow because she can’t really turn a door knob. There’s tips like that that really make it so much easier for you to live comfortably in your house, regardless of age or physical condition. So I would start there, as well.
But make sure you work with people that are experienced in universal design. There are lots and lots of people out there. You’ve just got to find them, OK?
TRACY: Great. Thank you so much for your help.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve got Ben in Nebraska on the line who’s dealing with a hot attic. Tell us what’s going on.
BEN: My attic temperature has been peaking at about, oh, 45 to 48 above ambient temperature. And I could describe what kind of roof. It’s a hip roof and it’s probably about 42 feet long. And I’ve got 13 feet of ridge (audio gap) up above and I was just wondering what would be the way to go: a ridge vent or wind turbine or maybe electric roof fan?
TOM: OK. Well, first of all, a hip roof is among the most difficult types of roofs to vent because you have such a small ridge. That said, what I would do is make sure that you have a continuous ridge vent on that ridge. That’s the first part. The second part is you need to make sure you have continuous soffit vents all around the overhang at the edge of the roof. Because the air, theoretically, will enter the soffit, go up under the roof sheathing and exit at the ridge. Does that make sense?
BEN: Well, it was a place built in ‘76 and it had vinyl soffing (ph) put over it and darn few vents. And I just recently got done putting some extra soffit space in there but that didn’t really seem to make any difference.
TOM: Well, are the soffits fully vented right now, Ben?
BEN: No. Just over the old holes. They put in a couple panels of vented.
TOM: Oh, so they covered the old wood soffits with ventilated panels? Is that what you’re saying?
BEN: Yeah, the old wood soffits were about 14×6 and there were three in the long end and two in the short.
TOM: Yeah, you have – I know exactly what you’re talking about; I’ve seen this many times. In fact, when I was a home inspector, I used to check for this by sort of pressing up on that soft, vinyl soffit – it looks all pretty and vented – to find solid plywood underneath.
It’s a problem. You really have to take the vinyl soffit material down and remove all of the old wood soffit material so that now it’s fully open. Then you can put the vinyl, perforated soffit material back up and you’ll have a fully vented soffit.
TOM: You can’t just put vented vinyl on top of wood soffit that has even vents sort of cut into it, because you’re just not getting enough airflow in. With a hip roof, the best place to get airflow is at the soffits and if they’re choked off, it’s never going to be cool up there.
So I would start by opening up those soffits and adding a good-quality ridge vent. Take a look at the vents that are made by CertainTeed – the Air Vent Corporation. And I say that because those vents have sort of a baffle design that improves the negative pressure at the ridge, which helps draw more air out of it. I don’t like the ridge vents that look kind of like corrugated cardboard; they don’t have enough cross-ventilation, enough way to get air out. I like to see vents that are big and fully open so that the air can really pull out of that. But I think a good-quality ridge vent and soffit vents that are properly open all around are really going to solve this issue for you, Ben, OK?
BEN: Alright. Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Just ahead, asphalt driveways take a beating from Mother Nature. And now that we’re moving towards the end of summer, have you taken a really good look at your driveway? Late summer and early fall are truly the best times to replace worn and cracked driveways. We’re going to have some tips to help you hire the best pro to get that job done, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your calls, your questions to 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Charlotte in North Carolina on the line who has got a popcorn ceiling that doesn’t have butter on it.
Charlotte, tell us what’s going on.
CHARLOTTE: Well, what happens now – we have a brown stain on the ceiling from the leak but we’ve had the leak repaired, of course. And it’s a popcorn ceiling. I’ve always hated this popcorn ceiling; I’m not opposed to getting rid of it. But I’m just wondering, what’s the best way to make the repair here? Because I’m afraid if we just take off the section where the stain is, it’s not going to match anymore and it’ll – you can – it’ll be like a repaired look. What would be your suggestion?
LESLIE: Now, is it truly a popcorn ceiling? Like when you reach up, you sort of end up with remnants of it? Or is it like a textured stucco ceiling?
CHARLOTTE: Whatever that drywall is that they kind of make and they spray on the ceiling.
TOM: Yeah. So, here’s the thing. You’ve had the roof leak. The roof leak is now repaired?
TOM: Has it physically damaged the ceiling or is it just the stains you’re concerned about?
CHARLOTTE: It mostly looks like the stains. To me, it looks like there might be one small section that might have a little bit of a bulge in it.
TOM: Alright. Well, let’s ignore that for the moment. What I would suggest you do is to use a good-quality primer and repaint that ceiling.
Now, if it’s just a very limited area, you could prime just the stain and leave the rest. If it’s a bigger area, you’ve got to prime the whole ceiling. But if you use a good-quality primer there, like a KILZ or a B-I-N or something like that, then that should seal in the stain and you could put paint on top of that. You will have to paint the whole ceiling if it’s not been done recently. But if you seal it with a primer and then paint it, that will make the ceiling stain disappear and preserve the popcorn.
Removing the popcorn, at this point, is just a whole lot of work but it sounds like it’s really not necessary for you to do, unless you just don’t like the look of it.
CHARLOTTE: Thank you very much. That’ll help a lot. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re welcome, Charlotte. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, asphalt driveways take a beating from Mother Nature. You know, sun, moisture, those freeze/thaw cycles, they all combine to cause cracks, exposing the aggregate and really aging the binders that hold your driveway together. That’s why it’s important to repair driveway cracks or potholes and apply driveway sealing on a regular basis to protect it.
But if you’ve done that or maybe you should’ve done that and now it seems that the driveway is ready for replacement, here’s a few things that you should know before you call a pro.
TOM: Well, that’s right. And we’ve got that info, in today’s Pro Project Tip presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
First, you need to know what you’re buying. Aside from driveway sealing, which is when a very thin coating of asphalt sealer is applied, there are really only two ways to redo a driveway. Now, a pro can add a layer to what you have already or they can completely tear out the driveway and start from scratch.
Now, if the driveway is just worn but it doesn’t have big potholes or cracks, a topcoat could be an option. But if the driveway is in really bad shape, adding a topcoat won’t change that and the new asphalt will likely sag and crack pretty quickly.
LESLIE: Now, for a driveway replacement, the most important thing is the preparation of the base. Once that old asphalt is removed, a new gravel base, typically about 6 inches, should be installed and then it’s rolled.
Now, think about a steamroller. A giant, rolling, truck-type thing is going to roll over until it’s almost as solid as a finished road. If this part is done well, you can expect your new driveway to look like the day it was put down for many, many years.
Now, it’s also important that the driveway be sloped for proper drainage. Nothing wears out a driveway faster than puddles of water.
TOM: Absolutely. Now, lastly, it’s really important to choose the right type of asphalt. Yes, there are different types. Some asphalt has more aggregate or stone in it than others. If you put asphalt down that is too sandy, which is sort of the other end of that spectrum, you’re going to have problems in a couple of years. You put one down that’s got a lot of aggregate, it’s going to last 10 or more years.
Now, the difference is really in the appearance. The sandy asphalt has more of a glossy, shiny kind of nicer look to it. But the devil is in the details. It’s just not going to hold up. You’re much better off with driveway mix, which is an asphalt that has an aggregate in it, so it really stands up. It’s just a lot stronger and it’s going to last a lot longer and that’s going to make you really happy.
LESLIE: Alright. Good luck with all your driveway projects, guys. They’re going to look gorgeous.
Today’s Pro Project has been presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your area and compare prices, read verified reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor makes it fast and easy to hire the best local pros.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve got Eva in North Carolina on the line with a water-heating question. How can we help you today?
EVA: Our home is about 11 years old. We have a hot-water heater on our third floor of our home. And I’m a little nervous about it being up on the third floor. And with it aging out, I’m concerned about it potentially bursting or leaking. So what we’d like to do is replace the hot-water heater in this house.
However, we’re not sure. We kind of have a disagreement. We’re broke right now, financially, but we would – for peace of mind’s sake, I would like to possibly look into a tankless. My husband thinks we should just replace the current one that we have upstairs on the third floor with the same darn thing because he’s like, “If it’s new, it won’t leak and it won’t burst.” So what do you guys suggest?
TOM: How old is the water heater?
EVA: As old as the house, I presume. The house is about 11 or 12 years old.
TOM: Well, if it’s an 11-year-old house, it’s going to have an 11-year-old water heater. And while, yeah, that’s closer to the end of a normal life than not, believe it or not, it’s not horribly old. I’ve seen water heaters go 15, 20 years.
EVA: But because it’s on the third floor of the house, I’m nervous because water is going to – it’s not like it’s in the basement or the garage. So if there is a leak or something like that, I’m concerned about there being a lot of water damage to our home.
TOM: I understand. And you could – that would happen if a pipe broke, as well. So, if you want to replace it with a tankless, that is going to be more expensive than a tanked water heater. But it’s definitely worthwhile because they last a lot longer and they also give you on-demand hot water, so you never really ever run out of warm water.
If you’re concerned about your plumbing system’s reliability in general, just make it a practice that whenever you guys go away for a weekend or longer, you turn the main water valve off. You don’t need to leave water on when you’re not home for an extended period of time. So, that might also be something you might want to start doing on a regular basis.
EVA: So whenever you’re going to be gone for the weekend or more than a couple days, turn the main water valve off.
TOM: That’s right. Because you don’t need it on. And this way, if the water heater ever were to break, it would lose the 40 or 50 gallons that’s in it but it would not constantly run, run, run.
EVA: Gotcha. So, going back to my original question, what do you guys suggest we do? Because my husband thinks, well, let’s just get a new one, the same thing. And then he thinks it’s going to give me some peace of mind.
TOM: OK. Here’s what I would do. You said that money is tight. I don’t want you to throw good money at bad ideas and I think replacing it with the same thing is kind of a bad idea, especially since it’s 11 years old. What I would prefer to see you do is live with that for another year or two, save up some money and then put in a tankless.
EVA: OK. And do you recommend tanklesses (ph) go in the crawlspace or in the garage or outside?
TOM: Well, they can pretty much go wherever you want. If you put them outside, they get a little less efficient because, of course, the outside temperature is cold and that means they have to work a little bit harder.
TOM: And sometimes, they’re put in rooms that are insulated or outside closets and that sort of thing. But you have the flexibility because a tankless water heater is going to be about a quarter of the size of your tanked water heater.
EVA: OK. So it sounds like that’s what you recommend is a tankless but maybe just live with this one for another year or two.
TOM: I think that makes the most sense. OK, Eva?
EVA: OK. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
I don’t feel like 11 years old is a terribly old water heater.
LESLIE: No. I mean given that a lifespan is 10,12 years. And you’re right: before we moved in, the one in our house was like 20 years old.
TOM: I used to see that all the time as a home inspector. And yeah, it’s old but not worth emergency replacing.
LESLIE: You can live with it. No. Just for peace of mind. There are other things that you can do.
TOM: There’s enough life left in that to risk not doing it now and saving up your money for a year or two and then going tankless. Because tankless is definitely the technology that is state of the art today and worth every penny of its cost.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Still to come, you’ve decided your kid is old enough to be home alone but can they handle a home-related emergency? Learn how to prepare them, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, welcome back to The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. Hey, are you ready to get that deck you’ve been dreaming of? Well, stop dreaming. Head online because HomeAdvisor.com can instantly match you with the right pro for the job, for free.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Patrick on the line who’s got a roofing question. How can we help you today?
PATRICK: I had a question about a metal roof versus a shingle roof. Our roof is about 17 years old and it’s ready for – it’s ready to change.
LESLIE: Now, is it ready to change because you don’t like the way it looks or is it failing in some way?
PATRICK: Oh, no. It’s actually fine; the shingles are fine. But I was kind of wondering about the cost benefit of spending twice as much for a metal roof versus a shingle roof for another – you know what? How long will the shingle – how long should that metal roof last? What’s the gauge of the metal? That kind of thing.
TOM: How long do you plan on staying in the house?
TOM: Forever. OK, that’s important information.
So, if you put a metal roof on this house, I think it can last, for all intents and purposes, forever. The metal roofs of yesteryear, when they were properly maintained, would easily last 50 to 100 years. The metal roofs of today will do the same thing and they can even do it more successfully because of some of the modern elements of technology that are added to it.
For example – you are in Florida? Is that correct?
PATRICK: Yes. Port Charlotte.
TOM: The one nice thing is that metal roofs have a reflective paint; it’s like a low-E paint. And they actually reflect some of that radiant heat back off of the roof. So instead of having a roof that’s like a heat collector, you’re going to have a roof that’s a heat reflector. So there’s also an energy-efficiency element to it, as well.
But I think that metal roofs last literally indefinitely, as long as they’re properly maintained. They don’t need a lot of maintenance. Of course, if there’s a storm and that sort of thing, they stand up a lot better; they don’t fly off like shingles do. And even though it’s twice as expensive, it’ll probably be the last roof you’ll ever have to put on that house.
PATRICK: If I do this $11,000 roof, will I report that to my homeowners insurance and will I get a benefit from that or no?
TOM: That’s a good question for your broker. Certainly, a metal roof is more fire-resistant. I also would look into energy – any energy-efficiency rebates. Because since it’s a low-E roof coating, you may actually qualify for an energy rebate. So I would look into that, as well.
PATRICK: And how would I look into that?
TOM: A good source is the Metal Roofing Alliance. That’s a trade association for the metal-roof industry. Go to MetalRoofing.com. And in fact, they have a section on their website about tax incentives, so they are available for metal roofs.
PATRICK: Alright. I appreciate your help.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, at some point, every parent faces the decision of determining whether or not a child is OK to stay home alone. Now, as a parent of three, I know that every child is going to be different. So, it’s important to make sure that they not only can handle themselves but also handle things that could go wrong in your house.
LESLIE: Yeah. First of all, kids should know how to call 911. They should know that number and know, actually, how to use it. But beyond that, there are other good things to know and that’s really dependent on your child’s age and ability.
For example, does your child know how to find and shut off the water main in case of a major leak? Do you know where that valve is? Well, go find it and put a big tag on it and then share that location with your kids.
Now, here’s another thing: can your child safely operate a fire extinguisher? Does your child know what to do if the smoke detector goes off? What should he or she do if the power goes out? These are all things you’ve got to consider.
TOM: Yep. These are all questions to ask yourself and to teach your children, again, only if you feel they’re ready.
For a complete, comprehensive guide to help you get your kids ready for any emergency, you can head on over to Ready.gov. Great website, chock full of tips and advice on how to handle small disasters, as well as the big ones.
LESLIE: Up next, there’s a popular household cleaner that’s sending thousands of kids to the hospital and calling Poison Control. Find out what it is, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
LESLIE: And while you’re online, you’ve got two pros here ready to answer your questions that you post in the Community section, just like Chris in Oklahoma did. Now, Chris writes: “My neighbors just told me that they found termites in their wood trim. Does this mean I’m going to get them? What should I do?”
TOM: Probably already do have them.
LESLIE: Oh, no.
TOM: If they’re in the neighborhood, they’re in the neighborhood. Just it may have hit – they may have hit your house – your neighbor’s house first.
Look, you need to do an inspection on a regular basis if you live in an area that has subterranean termites, because they live in the soil, they come up into the house to feed, then they go back to the soil for water. And so, an inspector is going to know how to identify them.
If you want to try to do your own, you need a super-bright flashlight. You need to look at the outside foundation perimeter. You’re looking for mud tubes. These are sand-colored tunnels that termites will build on the outside of a foundation wall. They’ll also tunnel up through firewood if you have any wood on the ground. Not a good idea but if you have any, you turn it over and see if they’re infesting it.
And then inside, you want to look at the foundation walls, up where the framing meets it, and look for those tubes. Tap on all the floor joists, see if anything sounds hollow. If you’ve got termites, you need to have it professionally treated. It’s easy to do these days. It’s not DIY. But you do it once. If it’s done right, you won’t have to worry about them for a very, very long time.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, all of these wood-eating insects – you’ve got carpenter ants, carpenter bees, termites – they can cause thousands of dollars’ worth of damage.
LESLIE: And they can cause it rather quickly. So, the only way you can really stay on top of that is if you have a professional come and do an annual inspection, to make sure that your house is OK and keeping those bugs out.
TOM: Well, you know better than to leave medicine in reach of kids. But what about basic household cleaners? Turns out they can be just as toxic. Leslie has tips to help keep the little ones clear of cleaning products, including one newer product that’s causing more harm than the rest, in this week’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Well, come on, you guys. You know there’s a ton of things out there that are made to make life easier. But I feel like sometimes, as people, we’re not becoming smarter or figuring out ways to be even more silly when it comes to household products.
Now, liquid laundry detergent, those little packets, they make life super easy but they really complicate things, as well. They’re small, they’re colorful, they’re these little packets. I mean they have prompted more than 32,000 calls to Poison Control centers since 2012. That’s a number so high because the packets resemble candy.
Now, it’s not just a matter of keeping the laundry packets out of your kids’ mouths. They shouldn’t even be handled by your children. Because they’re used in washing machines, these laundry packets dissolve very quickly when they come in contact with moisture. And that could be a sweaty, wet, little hand. And that releases toxic chemicals that can linger and then make their way into your children’s eyes or mouth, even hours later.
And the laundry packets aren’t the only danger to kids. You never want to store toxins in containers for juice or milk unless they are clearly and properly labeled with the contents. And keep all of your household cleaners locked up and out of reach, no different than you would treat medicine.
And speaking of, if you’ve got older kids at home, you want to make sure that all of your medicines are in a locked medicine cabinet, chest, whatever. And dispose of medicines that you no longer use or need, quickly. Lots of places have medicine-collection days. Pharmacies do it. Some of your town centers have it. I know we have a Stop Throwing Out Pollutants and they have a Prescription Drug Day. So, pay attention to this. Don’t just put them in the trash and don’t just keep them around.
TOM: Good advice.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, natural wood adds beauty to any home. We’re talking about wood siding, wood trim. It’s gorgeous. But it’s also an invitation for bugs and rot. Another option is synthetic siding. It’s available now. It looks just like wood but it does not have the headaches. We’ll have tips on the latest technology in synthetic siding and trim, on the next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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