TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Happy Holidays. If you are working on getting your room ready for the days ahead, we are to help. The quantity is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Because it is truly the ho-ho-home progress season where you’re taking on those projects to form your mansion bright and cheery and cozy and warm, is not simply for you but for all of your friends and family.
Coming up on today’s present , now that it is getting so close to the holidays, do you have a couple of last-minute projects to get done but no time to do them? Well, if so, hiring a handyman is a great option. But how do you find one, you know, kind of at the last minute that can complete the project on time and on budget? We are going to walk you through that process, because it’s actually not as hard as you might think.
LESLIE: And likewise onward, we’re going to solve a mystery put to us by a listener who had no electricity in his garage and three electricians couldn’t tell him why. And the answer "il go to" surprise you.
TOM: And the Farmers’ Almanac has been predicting winter forecast with an 80.5 accuracy frequency since 1792 which is amazing, by the way. And they are calling for frequent blizzard phenomena, from spurts to no fewer than seven large-hearted snowstorms from coast to coast.
LESLIE: Oh, geez.
TOM: So, if you’re tired of shoveling, a blizzard blower might be in your immediate future. It can do it for you but they’re not one size fits all. So we’re proceeding is to say how to choose the perfect one for your house.
LESLIE: And now that it’s cold outside, are you thinking about when that warm weather is coming back? We’ve got a great product from QUIKRETE to give away, this hour, that can help. It’s a laid of their very popular Walkmaker Forms. And it’s the easiest way to build a beautiful cobblestone walkway.
TOM: So, let’s got to get it. Whatever is on your to-do list, slide it over to ours, right now, by name us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Larry in Missouri is having a plumbing issue. Tell us what’s going on.
LARRY: Yes, I have a well on my dimension now that fills the spray for our mansion. And in the last couple of months, we’ve had what I think is an unusual thing happening. The couplings on the 1-inch tube- the PVC pipes that are coming from the well- so far, 3 of them have smashed and maybe split- the couplings have divided almost right in half. And so I’ve had to dig out this PVC pipe from in the anchor, because it’s all underground.
LARRY: And just wondering, what "couldve been" stimulating those couplings to be splitting like that?
TOM: OK. The couplings that you’re using- what’s the dimensions of the PVC pipe? Is it an inch-and-a-half or what is it?
LARRY: One-inch PVC pipe.
TOM: And so, mostly, the coupling is where you have two sections that working in partnership. Is that remedy?
TOM: So what you might want to "ve been thinking about" doing is replacing these glued- they’re glued-on couplings. Is that title?
LARRY: Yes, they are.
TOM: What you might want to think about doing is supplanting these glued-on, hard-bitten, plastic pipelings( ph) with something called a Fernco. Are you very well known that?
TOM: It’s more of like a rubber boot and they have different types for different pipes. But it attaches importance to both sides of the tube and it has a little bit of flexible in between it. And this way, if you’re getting expansion and contraction in the tube, it’s going to move with it and put less stress on the joint.
LARRY: Mm-hmm. Now, the ones that I have totally replaced- I have replaced three of them even further and I would predict there’s probably five other, probably, to the well. What I’ve done- there is this one- it’s got a rubber seal on it but then they bolt together. I don’t know exactly what they’re called but ...
TOM: It’s called a Fernco- F-e-r-n-c-o. Their website is Fernco.com. And they’re sell off plumbing furnish houses; I know they sell them at The Home Depot. You should have no problem finding this.
This might be what you’re using, based on how you describe it; I’m not quite sure. But this is a good solution when you’re having this question with the couplings that you’re using bursting down because, as you’ll see, this will give you a lot of opennes. I’ve been using these in the floor for pipes for many years and I’ve never had one miscarry on me yet.
LARRY: OK. Well, very good. I will look into that and see if I knows where to find them around here. And if another one breaks, I will try it out.
TOM: Give it a shot. Thanks so much for request us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now, Libby from Missouri is on the line and has some issues with a hardwood floor. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
LIBBY: I actually guess my hardwood flooring need to be redone. They’re extremely faded where there’s traffic and a great deal of gap.
LIBBY: And that mansion is about 60 years old. It’s very loud. Quantities of time wear and scrapings. And I’m trying to determining whether I should just not try to redo them and- or maybe there’s something that I can do to them to determine them examine better without totally refinishing them. I don’t know. You have any suggestions?
TOM: Well, sure, Libby. Let me query you about the condition of the floors. You said that they’re scratched but are the scrapings merely in the finish or are they sort of deep scrapings in the timber boards themselves?
LIBBY: No, they’re not deep scratches. Just from like- time daily wear, chiefly. They’re in really good shape. One office that’s not exerted very much is in I mean excellent- it examines approximately brand new. But the other, there’s- it’s simply ordinary, daily kind of wear.
TOM: Alright. So here’s what you can do, Libby. You don’t have to belt-sand the floorings, which is the way- when you totally refinish them, you take all the old-fashioned finish off and you grind down an 1/8 -inch of information. You don’t have to do that. What you can do is you is able to gently sand the upper surface of the finish and then articulated another blanket or two of urethane over that.
The best nature to do that is with a floor buffer and a sanding screen. Now, you can go to a tool-rental place and you can rent a flooring buffer and then you can purchase sanding screens, which are these screens that are about 18 inches in diameter. Appears various kinds of like window-screen material but it’s abrasive.
And there’s two sides to it, so you can use one side, fling it over, then use the other side. And you outlook it underneath the flooring buffer and as you use the buffer in the apartment, it lightly abrades the surface of the old-fashioned flooring. That takes out the dirt and the grunge. It takes off some of the old-fashioned- any age-old wax, that kind of stuff. And it’ll start to take out the scratches and that kind of evens it out and cleanses it up. Then you vacuum it or damp-mop all that dust up. And then you can apply two seams of urethane.
Now, I’ll give you a gimmick of the trade. The first bed should be a high gloss, because the glossy urethane is harder than satin. So applied the first seam of high-pitched gloss and maybe even a few seconds layer of high-pitched gloss but your last mantle could be satin. And that will give you a neat, even, soft finish and still be as hard-boiled as possible.
LIBBY: Oh, OK. I will see if I can get someone to help me with that.
TOM: Alright. Well, good fortune with that assignment. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show and Podcast. It’s is accessible on your regional radio depot, as well as your favorite major podcast app.
Up next, are you trying to get your home in tip-top influence before the hosts of visitors show up? Well, hiring a handyman to help with those minor fix-ups can really take a lot off your sheet. We’re going to share gratuities on how you can do just that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Look around your room right now. We know if you do one little twisting, you’re going to see something that’s got to get done but perhaps you don’t know how to do it. Well, pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fastest and most easy method to find the right pro for any kind of home job, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Well, now that the calendar various kinds of officially says winter, are you finding that your knowledge is really thinking about spring? It happens. We like the channel you think, guys, because we’re all looking forward to the warmer weather. Well, if you call now with your home better question, we’ve got a great giveaway for those working warmer eras that, I predict, are ahead.
We’ve got the QUIKRETE Walkmaker Form. Now, it’s an easy and economical method that you can add a beautiful, durable concrete walkway or even a porch to your dwelling. It’s definitely a do-it-yourself project that anybody can direct. You’ve just got to pour a mixed QUIKRETE Crack-Resistant Concrete into this Walkmaker Form, smooth it with a trowel and then remove the form when the concrete is thumbprint-hard. Maintenance doing this until you have enough sections to even out that walkway or the patio. So it’s truly a great DIY project. It comes out fantastically.
You can check it out all online at QUIKRETE.com. And you can get it in a knot of different patterns: country stone, basket weave, brick alliance, European. Check it out, again: QUIKRETE.com. But recollect, give us a call for your chance to win.
TOM: The crowd is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Carol in Texas is working on a decorate projection. How can we lend a hand?
CAROL: We are drawing our bathroom lockers. They are- they were put in the bathroom in 1980-something. I’m not absolutely convinced the year. We bought this house- the person or persons lived in it 28 times and we’ve been here almost 9 years. And they’re kind of a maple color and they’re not very attractive. I’ve applied that Orange Glo on them trying to perform them examine better. I don’t know what they used on them. Probably Liquid Gold or something trying to bring out the sheen.
But it’s just approximately beyond the part. And I’d like to have new closets but where reference is do, we’re probably going to have to redo the whole bathroom, we are therefore decided we are to be able paint them various kinds of an off-white color.
What we want to know is: what’s the approaching to attaining that make-up stay on?
LESLIE: Now, you said that the cabinets are a maple color. Are they actually wood and they’re stained?
CAROL: Yeah, that’s the stain on them. They’re stained.
LESLIE: So they’re discoloured wood. It’s not like a Thermofoil that looks like wood or a laminate? It’s wood.
CAROL: No, it’s real timber. They’re real grove cabinets.
LESLIE: Now, if they’ve been stained and restained over the course of a couple of years and you’ve got a lot of finishings of a cleaner on there, your best bet "couldve been"- and this is how I would kind of attack it. I would remove the doors and the drawer breasts, being very careful about labeling which becomes where, you know? A little fragment of painters tape on the back side and a little piece on the hinge saying, “-AA, ” or “1- 1, ” just so you know exactly where things go back.
And I would leave the hinges either on the door or on the box. It’s kind of easier to left open on the box, just for painting editions. And this way, you know exactly where anything goes back; that time kind of remembers things tidy.
And then, you really need to get some of that gleam off. So you could do it a got a couple of different ways. You could use something that’s like a liquid sandpaper that you clean on that comes rid of some of that sheen. But if it’s a super-high gloss and they’ve been oiled or polished over its first year and they’re unusually sort of gunked up, virtually, with a great deal of finish on them, you may want to sand them down a little bit. Because you need to get down to something that’s a little bit not so silky and so built up from years of cleaning and only the yuck that happens in the shower, just so that you’ve got a surface that the paint’s was just going to stick to.
And formerly you’ve done that to the doors or drawer fronts and the boxes themselves in the bathroom, you need to prime it very well with a high-quality primer. I would use KILZ or Zinsser- one of those that’ll stick extremely, very well- cause that baked very thoroughly and then go ahead with your topcoat decorate. And because it’s in a bathroom and because it’s a high-moisture area and it’s something that you’re going to want to be clean a good deal, I would go with a silky finish and an lubricant basi if I can get my hands on one. If not, a glossy latex will do the trick but more sturdy, of course, would be the oil base.
CAROL: Thank you and I relish your help.
TOM: Carol, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, now that it’s getting super close to the holidays, do you have a couple of last-minute projects to get done but no time to do them? Hiring a handyman really is a great option. But how do you go about finding one that can get the project done well, on time, on budget? We’ve got some tips to help you do only that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
Now, first of all, you’ve got to understand that a handyman service is very different than a contractor. Now, these laborers often make different approaches to initial consultations and costs. But employing a handyman can really be super affordable. In fact, HomeAdvisor reports that most homeowners tend to pay between $177 and $647 for a completed programme. So it’s a great alternative for those working jobs that don’t call for any major remodeling but you still need to get them done and you don’t feel pleasant make them yourself.
TOM: Now, it’s important, though, that you understand how you’re being charged for a handyman’s business, because it’s not all the same. You could be charged located on an hourly frequency or a flat pace, depending on the project. And deciding which depends on the known and likewise the unknown factors of a job.
So, for example, if the contractor is hired to hang a ceiling daybreak, it’s a reasonably simple task. The median handyman is going to know how long it’ll take to time that and what tools are going to be needed. But if the number of jobs involves repairing drywall after a sea divulge , not so much. It’s not straightforward. You don’t know what you’re going to find when you get that ceiling rip out. So in that case, it might be hourly.
Now, for small jobs, pros could also charge you a minimum frequency. And that’s fair because they do have the time and expense of getting to and from your residence, even if a chore only makes 10 instants to complete. But whichever way you go, it’s very important to agree on toll ahead of time. As long as you can provide sufficient more detailed information on the number of jobs, a handyman should be able to give you a pretty firm quote, in writing, before starting any project.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And here are a couple plans that can help you remain those costs down, as well. You should try and clear the furniture and any other obstacles that are around the area where the project’s is happening, because this manufactures the handyman’s responsibility easier. And if you’re paying hourly, it reduces the number of time that’s actually invested at the number of jobs and not prepping to do the job.
Now, if you’ve got a bunch of small projects, incorporate them into one work bellow. Perhap you’re replacing a medicine board, reforming a doorknob on an interior doorway or specifying a drippy faucet. You can save more coin by hiring that handyman to take care of all of them in one day instead of paying for three separate visits.
And remember, supermarket around. Because three repeats? That’s frequently ample. You’ll get a good doctrine. But retain, merely because something is the lowest toll doesn’t mean it’s always the best deal. You might end up compensating more in the long run for something that might need to be redone or take longer to happen.
And also, bear in mind some agencies offer deductions for elderlies, ex-servicemen, the disabled. Whatever it is, they’re going to list this in their ads and it was possible to a major selling moment for their services. So keep an eye out for these things and make your time and find the right person.
TOM: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your neighborhood and compare prices, read checked reviews and book appointments online, all free of charge. No question the type of job, HomeAdvisor obligates it fast and easy to hire very best local pros.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve got John in Missouri on the line with a garage question. Tell us what’s going on.
JOHN: This sewage has caused the one part of the garage slab to drop.
JOHN: And we known to when we bought the house. It’s gotten a little worse every year. And I guess my big question is: what are my options as far as repairing it? And then, what I’ve- various kinds of look into- I haven’t gone anybody out to look at it and give me estimates yet. Is mudjacking and curing( ph) it as opposed to time not doing anything- and then when it’s too bad, just rending out the concrete and repouring another slab. So I guess that’s the question that I have.
TOM: The point that you had all these contractors "ve been coming" and look at the slab and look at the house and apply you a entire wide range of topics of solutions is typical. When you call somebody that’s in the concrete-repair business, they’re going to come out and recommend a concrete fixing. So you were very smart to call in the independent, professional home inspector and therein got the correct advice- was simply fix the sewage and everything else will take care of itself.
JOHN: The best 500 horses I ever are used in my life.
TOM: Exactly. So now that you fixed the sewage, you’ve got this slab that’s agreed down and you’re wondering, “What do I do with it? ” I has not been able to recommend, with a garage slab, is everything as expensive as mudjacking or anything of that nature. The expense of that procedure is not worth just trying to save the slab. That slab will break up very, very easily- astonishingly easily- with a jackhammer or even a sledgehammer, frankly.
And you would tear that out, relevel the flooring, compress it, compress it properly and pour a new slab. So that’s "the worlds largest" cost-effective and permanent, long-term solution. Everything else would- I foresee would be a waste of coin and very speculative.
JOHN: Thank you. I relish that. Like I said, I haven’t had anybody come out and actually look at it more. It’s various kinds of one of those ankle-biter kind of things that ...
TOM: Well, here’s what’s going to happen, John. If you have somebody that’s in the mudjacking business come out there, they’re going to say, “Hey, you need mudjacking, ” OK? If you have a mason come out there and he tells you to tear it out and introduced a brand-new one in, I’d is in agreement with that. I think that’s the best thing to do.
John, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Give us a call anytime with your home fixing or your residence increase question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. This time of year with the holidays, I never sleep. I’m typically wrapping something or painting, so one of us will certainly be answer the phone.
Up next, have you ever had something go wrong in your home that even the pros can’t figure out? We’re going to tell you about a number of problems we solved for a listener in seconds that three electricians had missed, next.
TOM: Making good residences better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a announce, right now, with your how-to question, your DIY dilemma at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
Hey, do you need brand-new flooring in your kitchen or bathtub? HomeAdvisor will instant join you with the title pro for the job for free.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’re chief over to Georgia where Robin is dealing with a hall question. What’s going on with the cement?
ROBIN: The back of the plaster porch, where it convenes the house, has descend down from the brick about an inch and maybe as much as 2 inches in some plazas. And then, up the wall, the brick has also get orders in it, in some locates, that have put down, as well. And "youre seeing" where the brick has declined down under the windows.
TOM: OK. So what’s happening here is settlement and it’s happened gradually, probably over a number of years. And commonly, what happening on porches is - you are aware, you frame the outside kind of groundwork wall of the foyer and then you pour the concrete last-place. And sometimes, when they backfill the hall, it doesn’t compress properly or sometimes you get organic debris in there, like tree stumps and that sort of thing. And then they, of course, rot apart, you get voids and then the porch drops.
So the question is: can you patch something that has dropped 2 inches? And my answer is no. It’s too much to patch. So, "youve been" have two picks. You can temporarily shut those divergences. The only purpose in doing this is to stop some of the liquid that might collect from rainfall of running in there and constituting the matter worse. But it really is a particularly temporary fix.
The proper thing to do would be to have that concrete storey lacerated out. Once it’s torn out, you’ll be able to work on the brick wall that’s sagging underneath. The bricks would probably be sitting on top of a step of a foundation. I don’t know why they’re dropping but you need to investigate that, rebuild the bricks up under the window and then pour a brand-new material flooring on properly tamped, properly pact base.
That’s really all you are able to do at this place because you can’t spot something - you can’t articulated a bed on it of additional concrete to kind of fill that in. It simply won’t stay. It won’t look right. OK, Robin?
ROBIN: OK. Well, thank you for coming in. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re accept, Robin. Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, have you ever had something go wrong in your residence that you find even the pros merely can’t figure out what’s happening? It is also available jolly baffling and is also able to pretty expensive. Well, we’re going to tell you about a problem that Tom solved for a listener in seconds that three electricians had missed.
So, Tom, what exactly happened?
TOM: So, Larry wrote me about his garage. And the story was "hes had" five outlets that were dead, including the one his freezer was on, which I’m guessing led to a bunch of spoiled food. The circuit breakers, though, they were all on; nothing of them had junketed. And there were no GFCIs detected. There were no ground glitches found. And three electricians were called and not a single one could figure it out. So it was quite a perplexing problem for Larry.
Now, having heard this and having sort of been down these arteries for many years- and specifically, this one before- I knew that there had to be a GFCI. Now, what that expressed support for is ground-fault circuit interrupter. And you guys might recognize this as the shop that has the little measure and reset button it.
And basically, what it does is if there’s something plugged into this that has a short in it- which is a diversion of current to a soil source, which could be you going a sicken- it will instantly put off before anybody gets hurt. And when homes are built, one of the points that developers will do is they’ll put a ground fracture in one of the channels and then have it dominance all the outlets that sort of are following that.
And I knew something precisely had to be one now. So I said to Larry, “Look, there’s have to go to be- it’s got to be there. I want you to look is not simply in the garage but I crave you to look in your basement, your kitchen, your bathroom and outside. Basically, every target that there’s a sodden orientation, you could have a ground fault. And who knows where this developer introduced it? ”
So, he did and literally, like a marry hours later, he wrote me and said, “I met it.” Where’d he find it? In the garage but not on the wall. He encountered it behind a garage-wall board. So person actually had clothed the channel- the ground-fault store- with a cabinet.
LESLIE: That’s so crazy.
TOM: Well, one of the things I mentioned to him is there has to be an outlet on every wall. And when he saw a wall that didn’t have an outlet, he said, “Ha. I wonder.” And sure enough, it was behind the wall cabinet.
Now, the other part of this story, which is interesting, is not only did I facilitate him find it, I told him why- how it junketed in the first place. Because you remember when I told you where reference is described the situation, he said he has a freezer? Well, you are able to never, ever made a refrigerator or a freezer on a ground-fault circuit. Because when the compressors knock on and off, they pull so much capability that they kind of fake-out the dirt flaw and the ground demerit thinks that somebody’s going a stun and it turns off the circuit.
So, now, Larry is very happy. Of route, he’s got to now find, I approximate, a home to store whatever was in that cabinet. But this cabinet’s down, the electrical circuit is restored and he is ready to run a new channel just for that freezer.
But sometimes, that’s how it goes. But I told Larry, “Well, the good news is you got it straightened out. And you too knew the three electricians you will never, ever hire for development projects at your house.” Because those chaps should have figured this out.
LESLIE: You reached among us anytime, 24/7, right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT with your residence amend or your dwelling better question.
Well, according to that Farmers’ Almanac, you should be expecting no fewer than seven large-scale snowstorms from coast to coast this wintertime. That is terrible news, especially if you’re tired of shoveling. You know what? Now would be a great time to invest in a blizzard blower. It seems like we’re going to be using them a lot. We’re going to share some tip-off to choose the best one for your work, next.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone, summon us, right now, with your home progress question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a position. Only use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project. It’s all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: But first, pick up the phone and render us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. We’d have liked to help you out. We’d love to give some medals, as well, this hour. And we’ve went one, specially if you’re the type of person that though the calendar says winter and it might be snowing outside, you’ve already got your mind on some summer assignments. You’re thinking like, “Hmm, maybe if I get a project meant for the outpouring, the climate will get now faster.” So here’s your chance.
We’ve got, up for grabs, the QUIKRETE Walkmaker Form. Now, it’s mostly a model that you set some mixed QUIKRETE into. And once it’s thickened, you can just pop it out of the form, keep manufacturing them over and over and over again until you’ve got enough to create a walkway or a patio.
It’s a super-great do-it-yourself project. The blueprints are country stone, basket weave, feeing brick bail, European. Check them all out at QUIKRETE.com. You can be found in out how it drives. But remember, brain on over to MoneyPit.com, ask your question, announcement us with your question for your chance to win.
TOM: The QUIKRETE Walkmaker is going out to one listener drawn at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, with your question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: We’re going to Mike in Michigan who’s got some concerns about operating in the jug temps.
MIKE: I examine a rumor that there’s sealant that can be applied in much colder temperatures. But upon my research, I haven’t attained any firm that sells it or has only one knowledge of it.
TOM: You speaking about caulk?
MIKE: Yeah. To shut braces and cracks.
TOM: Well, generally, the solvent-based caulks can be used in a great deal lower temperatures than the latex-based caulks. Are you utilizing silicone caulks?
MIKE: No, we’re also exploiting polyurethane.
TOM: You might want to look at the silicone products. Now, this is nothing special; it’s not a new type of product. But I know that some painters use these down to 0 degrees.
Now, the trick is keeping it warm enough to apply it this is why it flows well. But if you can keep the caulking tube warm and then go outside and use it, the employment should be OK down to nearly 0 severities, as I recall.
MIKE: OK. And the freeze/ thaw round, I know, is water turns to frost, it expands. That will not expand the sealant being soak?
TOM: No. Because it’s solvent-based. You don’t have the same expansion issues.
MIKE: OK. And how well does that degree out? Do you have to more or less putty it in and smooth it out yourself?
TOM: It is more difficult to level out because of the cold temperature. As you know, if you’ve ever employed this sort of thing on warm day, it flows really nicely. But because it’s chilly, it emphatically doesn’t flow as well. But if you’re skilled with the caulk gun, you should be fine with it. And cleanup is a little bit more difficult, as well. But again, it comes down to your talent and I’m sure if you’re doing it all these years that you’d be enabled to overcome that issue.
MIKE: Yes, yes. We’re just looking- when we heard about it, we figured, well, if we can get another month or two out of the season of doing sealing, we can acquire more money every year by doing so.
LESLIE: There’s too a concoction out there called a “caulk warmer.” And it looks like a- kind of like an insulated lunchbox but it’s more like an envelope-style. And you can hold two to five tubings, depending on which size you get. And that can help you keep the caulk at a flowable temperature while you’re getting ready to work.
MIKE: Oh, OK. I acknowledge all your help and assistance. You folks have a great day.
TOM: Alright. Good fortune with that projection. Thanks so much better for holler us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, since 1792, the Farmers’ Almanac has been predicting weather with, get this, an superb 80 -percent accuracy rate. And they say we should expect no fewer than seven major snowstorms, you are aware. No big deal.
TOM: Yuck. Well, if that’s got you motivated to start thinking about buying a snow blower or if you’re like me and your snow-shoveling boys are away at college, here’s a few things to know that will help you find the one that’s going to work best for you.
And by the way, if you’re listening to this, right now, from the coast of Hawaii or Miami, you time obliterate that little grin off your face and think about how luck you are for a second while we help the rest of America, who’s truly chill right now.
LESLIE: Yeah, yeah, yeah. And we’re all coming to visit you in Hawaii. We know where you live. We’re coming.
But guess what, guys? There’s actually two types of snow-clearing machines: a snow blower and a snowfall thrower. And they’re two different things.
Now, a single-stage machine is called a “thrower,” because that’s what it does. It picks up the blizzard and then transports it out the parachute in one motion or theatre. Now, two-stage machines are announced “snow blowers, ” because it moves the snowfall twice. First, a metal auger is going to scoop up the blizzard and frost and then a high-speed impeller is going to throw it out through granting discharge tube.
Now, the auger on these bigger machines, it doesn’t touch the foot. It’s better for if you’ve got a gravel or concrete skin-deep. Plus, they boast taller buckets that are capable of inhaling bigger snowdrifts. So you’ve got to really "ve been thinking about" the type of face and the amount of snow.
TOM: So if you’re trying to decide between the options, you want to think about the area that you have to clear, the quantity of snow "youre trying to" get in that surface. The single-stage snow throwers are typically about 19 to 22 inches wide but the thicknes isn’t as important as the high levels of these machines.
Also, you don’t want to use a single-stage snow thrower on a gravel surface. And if you’re frequently duelling those 12 -inch blizzard moves or it is required to clear large, depth areas of snow, then maybe you might go for the bigger, two-stage snow blower.
LESLIE: Now, most blizzard blowers are going to run on gas but there are electric accounts of single-stage snow throwers accessible, which is great if you’ve went small-minded areas like a deck or paces where a gas-powered machine only isn’t going to fit.
And also, safety is super important when you’re using a snow blower. You’ve went really powerful blades that move at very high speeds. Now, the safety check starts before that first flake fails. Now, before it does snow, you’ve have to go to clear the driveway of all downed divisions, toys, newspapers, any other debris that could be a hazard.
And you was intended to made to ensure that you know the locating of all the landscape light-footed fixtures that are slotted along the edge of the driveway, because you don’t want to run them over with that snowfall blower. And never, never, never clear a choked impeller or auger with your hand. You’ve got to turn off the engine and then use a wooden stick to dislodge whatever is clogging it.
TOM: Yeah. Very important because the machine can move, even when it’s off, as soon as that poke object is removed. Sometimes, there’s built-up pressure and it will really move forward and can be very dangerous. So make sure you’re unusually, very careful when you’re clearing those clogs.
LESLIE: 888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and volume appointments online for free.
And coming up, if you’re feeling a shivering from all this wintertime brave, perhaps it’s time to install a whirlwind doorway. They can be tremendously helpful, so we’re travelling to share some tips-off if you’re considering one for your coin pit.
TOM: Where dwelling solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Call us, right now, with your dwelling better question at 888 -MONEY-PIT or post your question at MoneyPit.com, just like Rich did.
LESLIE: That’s freedom. Rich writes: “I recently set a brand-new fiberglass introduction opening that looks great. We’ve considered installing a storm door outside for additional protection and so we can have full-view glass door during the warmer months. I’ve heard, though, that I need to vent the door so it doesn’t warp or ruin our entry entrance. If so, how do I do this or should I merely hop-skip the tornado entrance altogether?”
TOM: It’s interesting that you think that you would have to vent a gale opening, right? Because isn’t the idea of a blizzard door to stop the drafts? So why would you need to vent the tornado entrance?
LESLIE: Create one.
TOM: Right. But there is some truth to all of this. Now, it doesn’t certainly have to do with the fiberglass doorways. But when you have a metal door, typically you have, for example, this- a trim around the window, like a vinyl balance around the window. And when you threw a rain opening over that, you get kind of this greenhouse effect where the door will overheat. That opening in front of the door will overheat. In fact, sometimes it gets so hot that when you try to grab the handle from the inside, it feels like you’re going to burn your hand.
Now, the thing is, though, with fiberglass entrances, you don’t need a cyclone door. It’s good enough as it is. Fiberglass openings are far more shielded than metal entrances or wooden doors. So you can skip the squall doorway for that reason.
Now, you did mention in the summer, certainly you could employed a screen door on this for breathing. In fact, I have a fiberglass door on our office entrance. And it’s a beautiful opening. It looks just like wood, because it has that sort of an impression, that sort of style and scheme to it. But we lay in a sort of hideaway screen door so that it kind of clicks back into a roll on the side.
LESLIE: Oh, that’s smart.
TOM: So we don’t even have to have the actual made of the door. It just sort of pulls out and it requires a neat ventilation.
But you do not need a blizzard door with fiberglass. And if you do have one, you are able very well decrease the life of the finish on that fiberglass, just because of all the added showing and hot that’s was just going to log into that.
LESLIE: Alright. Good point.
Next up, we’ve got a pole here from Josh in Michigan. Now, Josh writes: “In my bathroom, I’ve been having some problems with what looks like drips on the wall. The drips are sometimes a yellowish shade and more see after the shower. Is this a venting trouble? ”
TOM: Well, probably. I means you is a lot of humidity in this space because it’s not vented well enough. You are going to get the water running against the walls or condensing against the walls. It will pick up the mineral deposits "thats been" there from showers of long ago, which could be yesterday or the month before. And it will dehydrate with those salts and establish those kind of colorful drips.
This thing is, though, if you deal with the environment, which is the high-humid environment that you are, that’s not going to be as much of a problem. You’ll also find that it’s not going to be moldy, right? It’s just going to be a lot more pleasant of a space.
So, what I would recommend that you do, in this case, is oust or add, if you don’t have it, a bathroom-vent fan. But not only any fan. You want to made to ensure that the switching on it has a humidistat. Because if it runs on a humidistat, even when you leave the bathroom after the shower is done, the love will can run until the moisture’s gone. Because most of us will exactly put off that fan when we leave the bathroom. But that’s kind of counterproductive, because the humidity is still there.
LESLIE: Yeah. You do really have to run that show supporter after the shower. You know, so many times my kids will precisely bust out of the lavatory and you can see the steam kind of "ve been coming" when you are. It certainly sticks around. So you want to make sure you run it well after to get all of that steam and sweat out of the bathroom, really to keep things in tip-top shape in there.
Plus, you want to really make sure that the expres supporter is vented outside. You don’t want to leant all that moist air into the attic because it then aims up spawning your insularity less effective. And that movements a whole knot of other problems.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Thank you so much for expend this part of your vacation- and yes, I call it a “holiday, ” because we’re getting closer together every weekend may seem like the vacation now- with us. If you’ve got questions that we can help you with when it comes to taking on your residence chores, your programmes, contribute us a bawl, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or berth your question at MoneyPit.com.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No component of this transcript or audio register may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Make, Inc .)
The post How to Hire a Handyman | Electrical Mystery Solved | Tips to Buy Snow Blowers seemed first on The Money Pit.
If you’ve started a dwelling renovation campaign, "youre supposed to" know how difficult it can be to finance. Even if you set aside a considerable nest egg or take out a loan, increased timelines and unexpected expenses can propel your budget into turmoil. Cosmetic repairs can often wait, but structural restorations tend to demand immediate attention and require a tight turnaround. Are you at the end of your budget with the final push of your dwelling mend still in need of completion? Don’t settle for walking around that defect in your living room floor -- you have options.
Here are four ways to get your home renovation job done, even if you’ve previously gone over budget.4 gratuities to assist you find coin for renovations
Not sure how to pay for the rest of your residence restorations? These tips could help get the job done.1. Apply for a credit cards with a residence better retailer
Select hardware retailers furnish their clients the option to sign up for a consumer credit card or take out a project loan. If you’re considering exploiting a credit card from a traditional bank to finance your dwelling reparation assignment, it’s a good thought to compare that against the conditions provided by a retail credit card. In addition to a credit cards, some retailers likewise offer project credits -- both of which can feature company-specific perks.
Using Home Depot as two examples, let’s dive into the specifics of using a consumer-driven retailer credit card.Pros: When you take out a Home Depot credit card, you may become eligible for special discounts on their products and services. For example, in December 2019, they are offering 0% interest if you use their credit card to purchase positioned fencing and fee it off within 12 months. With the Home Depot consumer credit card, you’ll have up to a year to perform returns. That’s four times as long to stir returns simply for being a card member. Some retailer credit cards allow you to earn parts that can be exchanged for qualifying obtains in store, who are capable of further facilitate lower the cost of your restorations. Cons: Most in store credit cards, are subject to credit approval, wanting you might not certify if you have bad credit history. You might merely is the possibility of procreate buys at the store with a credit card from a specific retailer. Be careful not to open so many credit cards with retailers that you forget about them. Very numerous open credit cards can not only impairment your credit orchestrate but also continue to accumulate interest in the event that you inadvertently leave a small balance on a card you’ve forgotten about. 2. Get a 0% APR credit card
Some credit cards offer a 0% APR for a limited promotional span. If you need to pay for your home redevelopment programme quickly and intend to pay it off in a short period of time, this could be the title alternative for you. If you repay the funds before the promotional period expires, you won’t owe the best interest. However, be sure you understand the terms in the event that you don’t repay the funds before the 0% introductory rate expires. The interest rate could hike hugely, and you’ll likely owe interest from the date of the purchases , not from the end date of the promotional period.Pros: Take advantage of the introductory time period without interest, which strays from six to 18 months on average. Some is available with almost two years without interest remittances. Earn cash back for the utilization of your 0% APR card. For example, some placards volunteer customers 1% money back on all buys, which is in accordance with more money you can spend on your project.If you can pay off the credit card before the preparatory charge expires, this is a no penalty method to borrow money. Cons: Once the 0% APR time period dissolves, money careful attention to fees and interest rates associated with the card, as they could be far higher than other credit cards.If you fail to meet the terms and conditions of card use, your 0% APR period can discontinue prematurely. Statistics show the median spend for home renovations in 2018 was $15,000. Your credit card limit might not be big enough to pay for your entire renovation. 3. Use personal savings Source: Foto de Fondo creado por Dragana_Gordic- www.freepik.es
If you do have a savings account but are unsure whether or not to use it for your restorations, consider the interest you’d have to pay for other financing options. If your tower residence repair job is creating an unsafe living environment, consider the financial risk of leaving the project unfinished. It could be a better utilization of era and coin to use personal savings to complete the project and offer yourself back over age.Pros: Lower your total project cost by avoiding hefty interest payments. Save time and beset by cutting out a third-party lender, thereby allowing yourself to focus on the details of the project. If your recognition autobiography makes it difficult to get a loan, expending your savings draws it possible to get the job done and refund yourself over hour. Cons: This method isn’t available to numerous purchasers who don’t have substantial savings account. Many savings accounts have a minimum, implying you’ll have to keep a certain amount of monies in your account for it to remain active. If your savings are locked in long-term financings you are able to not have access to the cash needed to complete amends. 4. Obtain a Personal loan
If you’re unable to complete your restorations due to budget constraints, taking out a personal loan could be a good way to finance your residence betterment assignment. Personal loan terms can previous anywhere from 24 to 84 months, and numerous are in need of recognition composition of around 600. Typically delivered in the form of a lump sum, a personal loan can be a viable option for both big one-time expenditures or project costs over epoch.Pros: With a fixed exchange rate and defined monthly fees, borrowers can avoid any uncertainty of how much they’ll owe at a given point in time. If you’re approved, some lenders will conclude your funds available by the next day -- which can be crucial for tight home-repair deadlines. Most personal loans can be used for whatever you want, returning flexible spend alternatives that can be used between variou vendors. Cons: Unless you have excellent credit, taking out a personal loan could have high-pitched interest rates and strict repayment guidelines.Some personal credits expect collateral if they’re above a certain amount. For example, one bank offers personal lends up to $ 100,000 without compelled collateral. Unlike a 0% APR credit card, a personal loan begins accruing interest as soon as you take it out. You might also incur a prepayment sanction if you try to repay the loan early. How to avoid going over budget
While unanticipated costs "re driving" up the budgetary resources of a dwelling renovation activity, there are ways to keep some overheads in check so that you aren’t blindsided by preventable overheads.1. Always rebudgeting
When you’re starting a residence better project, make sure you sit down with your contractor and carefully evaluate national budgets. Talk about areas where you’re willing to splurge and areas where you’d preferably save. Then, as you end different elements of the project, roll unused funds from one budget to the next. In other names, if you come in under budget on part of the project, don’t see that as an opportunity to spend the rest of your budget in that specific area, unnecessarily. Professionals intimate restorations frequently go about 20 % over budget, so you never know what astounds might be around the corner.2. Compare rates online
Recent research has shown that while 8 % of homeowners uttered renovations commodities alone online, 50% still patronized in store. The same study presented the average amount expend was higher for those who browsed in store versus online. Shopping online could help you find the best deal and you could also be less persuasion to pick up extra components you don’t truly need.3. Reuse materials when possible
You might be allured to do away with all of your aged materials and start fresh, but repairing information from your home to use in the renovations could help you cut costs. For example, do you need all brand-new kitchen cabinets or can you update them with a coat of draw and brand-new equipment? Before you start your restoration, be decisive about what you’re going to buy new and where you can reuse entries. Mixing old and new fabrics can help keep your overheads low-toned all there is giving you an updated look.
The post Did Your Planned Renovations Go Over Budget? 4 Tips to Fully Fund Your Project Until the End sounded first on The Money Pit.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re here to help you with your New Year’s home improvement project. You’ve got a project that you’d like to plan for these chilly months, right now, or the spring months ahead? They’ll be here before you know it. We’re here to help. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or if you are dealing with a repair, something that’s just really been bugging you and you want to get it fixed, we can help with that, too. Or if you’re just sick and tired of the way the place looks, we’ve got some décor ideas and tips that can help you spruce it up. But help yourself first: pick up the phone, give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
Hey, coming up on today’s show, we’re going to talk a bit about icicles. You know, they look very pretty hanging from the edge of your roof this time of year. But they do signal a potential problem with your roof that you’ll definitely want to address. We’re going to have tips on how to prevent ice dams and the major leaks they can cause.
LESLIE: And also ahead, a serious stove can definitely boost your cooking powers and not to mention your home’s resale value. But installing a commercial range requires some special planning. We’re going to tell you what you need to know.
TOM: And termite problems are easily spotted over the spring and summer. But would you know if you had termites during the cold months? They may. They’re still there. They’re still working, munching away. We’re going to teach you what to look for, right now, when the destructive bugs are harder to spot.
LESLIE: That’s right. We’re here to give you a hand. But first, we want to talk to you. So let us know what you are working on. I know we’re two weeks into the new year. Have you already started planning 2019’s project? Give us a call. We’d love to help.
TOM: 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974. Let’s get to work.
LESLIE: Renee in Texas, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RENEE: Yes, mine is kind of like a double question. I have about a 30-year-old, connected-on-both-sides townhome, two levels.
TOM: OK. OK.
RENEE: And I heard a crack a couple months back. Well, it was one of the support beams and it just – like a big, strong branch just cracked.
TOM: Huh. Did you actually see the cracked beam somewhere?
RENEE: No, I didn’t see that but I have begun to have cracks along on that same side of the house, in the corners of the wall?
RENEE: Down the corners where it’s breaking apart. But at the same time, I’ve noticed that the house has become unlevel. And that’s a little part because it’s old and it’s connected on both sides but I’m in Texas and we have big droughts and it kind of shifts a little bit.
RENEE: My concern is when I get the support beam fixed and the foundation fixed, I’ve seen on the DIY shows that suddenly they go back and they look and the house or the chimney has just been trashed. What can I do to prevent that?
TOM: Why do you say it’s been trashed? Because it shifted?
RENEE: Right. When they did the – when they put in – when I’ve watched the DIY shows, they go and they fix the foundation and the foundation’s fine. And of course, they shift everything up and now there is …
TOM: Yeah. That’s why you have to be very, very careful when you do anything that changes the angle that the house has sort of settled into. Because if you don’t, once you bring a foundation up, everything else moves. Yeah, in a wood house, if you try to straighten a slopy floor, for example, all the wires and the plumbing get stretched and twisted and so on. So it’s not just foundations that are of concern.
I’m concerned, though, about this crack that you say that you’ve heard. But you’ve seen cracks in your walls but you’ve not physically seen the structural crack, correct?
TOM: Alright. Now, you said it’s a townhouse. Is there an association that …?
TOM: OK. So in an association form of ownership, typically you don’t own the structure. So the structure – if the structure was to fail, that’s typically the responsibility of the association to address. Is that your understanding?
RENEE: I can double-check on that.
TOM: But in a typical condominium form of ownership, what you own is inside wall to inside wall. In some cases, you own the …
LESLIE: And then what’s beyond that wall is not yours.
TOM: Right. In some cases, you own the drywall; in some cases, you don’t. So, for example, if there was a fire, God forbid, and the whole place burned down, you would be paying for the drywall, the kitchen cabinets, the appliances, stuff like that. And the association would be rebuilding everything else, including the related infrastructure.
So you need to figure out, if there’s a structural problem, who’s responsible for it. I suspect you’re going to find it’s the association that’s responsible for it, which is good news for you. And then I would bring that to their attention and ask them to address it.
Now, as far as the cracks in the corners of the wall are concerned, I have to tell you that that’s pretty typical and that by itself doesn’t necessarily mean that you have a structural problem. The way to fix that, though, is important and that is that you want to sand down the drywall in that area. And then you want to add some additional tape and the type of drywall tape you use would be the perforated type. It looks like a netting; it’s like a sticky netting. You put that on and then you spackle through that three coats: one, two, three coats; each one thin but three coats. And that type …
LESLIE: And allowing each one to dry and be sanded in between.
TOM: Yeah. And that type of repair typically will last.
Now, after you do the spackle repair, you’ll have to prime the wall. You can’t just paint on top of it; you’ll have to prime it and then paint it.
TOM: So I would address the structure with the association, I would fix the cracks on your own and then see what happens.
RENEE: OK. So just one more question. Let’s say that if it’s not in the association, that I do have to go into it, not only am I concerned about my roof but how much of a problem will I have with my neighbors on both sides of me?
TOM: Depends on where the crack is, if it exists at all. If that’s the case, then I would suggest you hire a professional home inspector and have the inspector do what’s called a “partial inspection,” which is usually a single-item inspection, and investigate this crack and see what’s going on in the structure. And then we’ll know how far it’s gone and what needs to be done about it.
RENEE: Yeah, that’s cool. Thank you, guys. I appreciate your time.
LESLIE: Neil in North Carolina is on the line with a roofing question. What’s going on at your money pit?
NEIL: I bought this old farmhouse and the people before me had a wood burner in the living room and they also had a wood burner in the kitchen that they cooked on. Now, they took them with them but before they left, they got an oil furnace installed – a Monitor – and capped off the living-room chimney. So when I came in, I brought a wood burner with me and I hooked it up to the chimney. I had somebody up on the roof that checked down through the chimney, said it was all nice and clear. Well, when I fired it up, creosote in the chimney started dripping down through the piping, into the living-room floor.
NEIL: And I suffered – suffocated – the fire and went outside. And it had run out of the chimney, down the shingles.
TOM: Oh, man. What a mess.
NEIL: Yes, very much so. And it looked terrible. Now, these are asphalt shingles and it’s just about a 6-inch-wide river running down from the chimney and over the side. And I have not been able to find anybody that could tell me how to get rid of it other than replace the whole roofing shingles.
TOM: I don’t think it’s the kind of thing you can clean. I think there’s going to be so much carbon deposit in that gooey creosote liquid, that’s probably a combination of water and tar and carbon, you won’t be able to really clean those shingles. You really are going to have to replace the shingles that are damaged.
You know, you can remove just those damaged shingles without replacing the entire roof. There’s a little roofer’s trick of the trade that works well for that. You slip a flat bar up underneath the shingles and find the point where the nail comes through. And the flat bar has a little V in the end of it. You get it in that spot and kind of wiggle it back and forth and the nail will pop right up. The first one might be a little bit harder to get up but once you get going, it’s pretty easy. And then kind of reverse that when you put the newer – the replacement – shingles back down. The last one is going to be harder to nail in place but you put a little extra asphalt-sealing adhesive on that and you’ll be good to go.
But I don’t think you can clean it.
NEIL: Yeah, that’s what I’ve been told. Nobody had come up with any way to clean it. A fella said he’d bring down his pressure washer and I said, “Nah, nah. That’ll blow the shingles clean off.”
TOM: Well, it’ll certainly wear off the asphalt-granule surface. I don’t think that’s the way to go. But I mean the more important question is: what are you doing about that wood stove? Because that doesn’t sound like that was a very safe install.
NEIL: The install was OK. But I should have had that chimney scrubbed or something on the inside, to get rid of that creosote that lined it. When this fella looked down it, he was looking for obstructions and things like that.
TOM: Yeah, well, you definitely need to have it cleaned. You might want to think about having the chimney lined: dropping a stainless-steel liner down there. Yeah, safety first, my friend. OK? Be careful with that.
TOM: Sorry we couldn’t give you a cleaning tip but at least you now have yet another opinion on what exactly you guys have to do, which is to actually replace those shingles.
Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. You can post your question to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com or give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home service pros in your area. You can read reviews and book appointments online.
TOM: Still to come, icicles on trees are pretty. Icicles on your roof, well, they might cause some leaks. We’ll tell you how to prevent those ice dams, after this.
Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right home pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Hey, thinking of a not – I don’t think it’s such a major remodel and I want to get your opinion on this, Tom.
We’ve been spending time, during the holiday season, visiting friends. And while I love my wood-burning fireplace, I’m always fascinated at the ease and warmth of people who have gas inserts. And some of them really look fantastic, just like a realistic log fire. What are your thoughts? I’ve already called a plumber. I’m waiting to see if I can run the line and how much that’s going to cost. But good idea? Bad idea?
TOM: After-market gas inserts are – can be pretty expensive to run from a gas-bill perspective. They’re not very efficient. Plus, you’ve got to make sure your chimney is properly lined for it. Very unforgiving because the temperature of those gases, as it goes up they’re not going to warm the chimney as quickly. So you get a lot of condensation.
TOM: The condensation is very acidic. It can chew away at the mortar joints and such, so you’ve got to have the right chimney. And if you’re going to have to get in and put in a chimney liner and the insert, it’s just not worth it. Plus, there’s nothing better than a wood fire, even though they’re a lot of work.
LESLIE: It looks so easy and so pretty.
TOM: You know, it’s just – and yeah. Save it for the next house. I mean when you’re buying one that’s designed for gas from the get-go and it’s a manufactured unit, just pops in the wall, that’s a totally different scene. When you try to convert a wood-burning fireplace to a gas fireplace, I’ve seen that done many times. And usually, it results in a lot of money in gas, because those burners are huge. They can be 100,000 BTU burners, which is more than – more gas than you need to heat your house, Leslie. So, we’re talking really …
TOM: Oh, yeah. Really expensive.
LESLIE: Because I’ve seen some pretty nice, big, burning gas fires lately.
TOM: Yeah, really – right. Really expensive.
LESLIE: And I’m like, “Ooh, that’s really lovely.”
TOM: Plus, you have the carbon-monoxide issue, so you have to make sure the flue is pretty much chained in the open position. So, yeah, for all those reasons I really don’t like it. Don’t like it. Sorry. I’m sure you can find another project.
LESLIE: I’m still going to look into it, because it seems really nice.
TOM: Alright. Alright.
LESLIE: But man, talk about the downer for 2019.
TOM: OK. I know. Hey, man. Listen, I love wood fireplaces but – and gas fireplaces are OK but only if they’re the manufactured kind.
Anyway, what is your home improvement question? We’ve heard Leslie’s. We want to hear yours. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Mike in Illinois is on the line. How can we help you today?
MIKE: I have a – the drywall through the center of my house is separating at the seams.
MIKE: And it’s straight through the center of the house, down the hallway through the center of the house. And I’m not sure if it’s due to moisture in the attic, drying out and expanding or if it’s the floor in the house moving.
TOM: Mike, how old is your house?
MIKE: I’d say 20 years old.
TOM: OK. And is this relatively new or has it been around for a while?
MIKE: It’s been there shortly after I moved in.
TOM: Oh, so it’s been there like 20 years.
TOM: Yeah, I think it’s probably shrinkage. When a house is first built, the lumber is very wet and over the first couple of heating seasons, it tends to shrink a lot and you’ll get a lot of movement. Now, over the years, you may have tried to patch it and then you just find that it opens up again. That’s very typical.
TOM: What you want to do to patch it is you need to sand it down where it’s cracking. You need to use new drywall tape on top of that. You can use the perforated tape. It’s easier to work with, in terms of the spackle, because you don’t have to worry about air bubbles behind the paper tape. Use the perforated tape, put about three layers of spackle on there, sand in between, prime, paint. You should be good to go.
MIKE: OK. If I have bathroom vents that are venting out into the attic, would that cause it or would that cure it if I …?
TOM: No, I don’t think – well, first of all, I don’t think it’s caused that but that in and of itself is a problem. You shouldn’t be ducting bathroom exhaust fans into an attic; they should continue through the attic to the exterior.
And the reason for that – you’re in the Chicago area, correct? Pretty cold there. And if you get that insulation damp, it’s not going to be very effective.
MIKE: OK. So, with it venting in there, that’s decreasing my R-value of my insulation, too.
TOM: It is. R-value is rated at 0-percent moisture. So when you add moisture to it, it goes down dramatically. So, the more moisture in the attic, the less effective the insulation becomes.
MIKE: OK. To fix that, would it be alright to add insulation on top of that after I fix that problem?
TOM: Yeah, you can add more insulation but you have to duct from the exhaust fan out of the attic. So, you can do that by going like sort of through the gable wall or up through a roof vent with a proper termination on the end of it so no water gets in there. And just get that warm, moist air out. Don’t leave it in the attic.
MIKE: OK. And I’ve done some research on the internet. I’ve got two bathroom fans. To run them into one, they said to find a wire or a vent that’ll flip one side to the other so it doesn’t backdraft into the other bathroom. I cannot find that.
TOM: Well, I don’t think you really need that because, for example, if you run it to the gable wall and you have a typical bath-duct terminating type of a hood on it, that’s got a spring on it that stays shut. So it’s only going to open when the air is blowing out.
There’s another way to do this and that is to have a remote bath fan where they actually have the motor part that’s up in the attic space and the ducts just connect to the ceiling of the bathrooms. But that’s a nice system – it’s a quiet system – but it’s much more expensive to do. You see that a lot in hotels.
MIKE: OK. Well, thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Mike. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, it’s officially winter. And while snow on your roof and those pretty icicles on the eaves certainly look lovely and wintery and very festive, both could actually mean that you have a problem. Now, heavy snowfalls followed by warmer days, that often allows ice to dam up at the roof edge, where it’s going to block melting snow. And that can lead to some serious leaks inside your home.
TOM: Yeah, that’s right. And it’s much more common in warmer attics because those are not property ventilated. So, to prevent this, you need to make sure that your attic is adequately ventilated with good soffit and ridge ventilation.
And if you plan to replace your roof, be sure to have a contractor install ice-and-water shield. Now, that’s a roof product that will be installed along the roof edge and it goes up under the first, say, about 3 feet of roof from the edge. And it basically provides an extra layer of protection against those ice dams, because that’s where they form. And if one did form and try to back up there, it can’t get under the roof shingles because the ice-and-water shield will stop it.
LESLIE: Now, if you live in a southern climate, ice-and-water-shield underlayment can actually protect your house from leaks from heavy, wind-driven rain: you know, the type you might get in a hurricane. In that installation, it would cover the entire roof and then you go and install the shingles right on top of it.
TOM: Yeah. And the idea is that when the shingles get blown off in a strong storm, that ice-and-water shield basically is still attached. Because it’s very sticky, in a way; it adheres right to the plywood sheathing. And therefore, it’s going to protect your home until you can get back to fixing it.
And that’s just one of the many tricks of the trade we try to share with you every week on The Money Pit. If you’ve got a question about a problem or issue at your money pit, give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, a serious stove can boost your cooking powers, not to mention your home’s resale value. So what do you need to know if you’re looking at one of these brawny beauties in your kitchen? Stick around. We’ll help you sort it out.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone and give us a call right now. We’d love to talk with you about your next home improvement project. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
Hey, do you need new flooring, a new kitchen or bath? Or do you need a new roof or are you ready to get a deck you’ve been dreaming of? HomeAdvisor will instantly match you with the right pro for the job, for free.
LESLIE: Mary in North Carolina is on the line with a mossy roof. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
MARY: Well, we have a 10-year-old roof – asphalt shingles, I believe they are – and the sections between shingles are beginning to be filled up with moss.
LESLIE: It’s like a mossy grout line.
MARY: Yeah, that’s right. I’d like to know how to get it safely clean and keep it from growing back again. It isn’t the entire roof. We are in an A-frame house, so it’s very sharp, very steep roof. And it’s just about the 8 or 10 feet closest to the edge.
LESLIE: OK. Do you see it all the way around or do you just see it on, say, the north-facing side or in the area …?
MARY: It’s just on this north-facing part.
LESLIE: OK. So that’s the area that gets the least amount of sunlight.
LESLIE: Do you have a large tree that’s adding more shade to this area?
MARY: We have a lot of trees, yeah.
LESLIE: A lot of trees.
TOM: Yeah, therein lies the problem.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, I mean the best solution here is – can you trim out or thin out those trees in any way to get more sunlight onto that portion of the roof? Because if you can do that, sunlight really is your best weapon in getting rid of this moss and keeping it away. Now, you’ll have to do some work to get it to be gone in the first place but if you can add more sunlight, you’re going to help it stay away.
MARY: Alright. Very good. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, few things define an upscale kitchen like a commercial range. With those heavy, cast-iron grates, beefy knobs and high-BTU burners, the pro-style range has become the modern-day hearth: a focal point in the home’s main gathering place.
TOM: Of course, a serious stove can boost your cooking powers, too, not to mention your home’s resale value. So what do you need to know if you’re looking for one of these brawny beauties in your kitchen? Well, This Old House plumbing-and-heating contractor Richard Trethewey is here to tell us.
RICHARD: Hi, Tom and Leslie.
TOM: So we’re seeing more and more of these. They’re really popular and they’re not just their cooking power. Homeowners just love the way they look.
RICHARD: They really do add a very dramatic look to their – to your kitchen. Everybody wants to think they’re Wolfgang Puck and this is really the chance. But an actual commercial range, a true commercial range, is not designed for a residential kitchen. You really have to get a pro-style range because it’s got additional insulation. The commercial ones don’t have enough insulation. They worry about the standby loss from catching kitchen cabinets on fire.
LESLIE: Oh, wow.
TOM: Right. Because it’s just so hot, it doesn’t stop that heat in a cabinet body like it does in a conventional range.
RICHARD: Right. That’s right.
TOM: It goes right through.
RICHARD: That’s right. In a kitchen, you want to keep – in a commercial kitchen, you don’t care because there’s plenty of ventilation.
LESLIE: And everything’s metal.
RICHARD: That’s right. A pro-style range is scaled to fit the standard depth of counters. That’s the difference. They can fit in a regular, 24-inch-deep counter but they have beefed-up insulation. But they also have burners that are crazy powerful. They can blast out 18,000 to 25,000 BTUs, where a basic stove range might have 12,000 BTUs as their biggest burner.
TOM: You can burn your dinner that much quicker.
RICHARD: That’s right. That’s right. Yeah.
LESLIE: Well, I think it’s interesting, too, because when you’re looking at a pro-style range or oven, they’re so much larger. So you really have to consider that you’ve got the space for this. I’ve seen them as wide as 5 feet – 60 inches.
RICHARD: Right. The standard range in America is a 30-inch range. And so these pro-styles come in 30, 36, 48 and 60. That’s a 5-footer.
RICHARD: That is a lot of burner and it really looks kind of imposing if all you want to do is cook a pot of tea on that big burner.
RICHARD: So it means you have a lot of burners, you’ve got a lot of cooktop options. They’ve got unbelievable choices, with griddles and side grills and boiling pots and stuff like that. A lot of cool stuff on it, though.
TOM: You also have a choice of fuel ranges on this, right? It could be gas or electric or combinations, right?
RICHARD: Yeah. Most of them are gas and many of the great chefs will tell you they want to cook on the cooktop with gas and use electric for their precision in the ovens. But most of them are going to be gas and they’re going to be either natural gas or propane. Some of them are dual-fueled, where you’re going to have gas and electric.
LESLIE: Yeah, I’ve got that at home. I’ve got a gas cooktop and the electric convection, because it really does help give you a more uniform cooking temperature throughout.
RICHARD: That’s right.
LESLIE: So it really helps to cook things more evenly on their proper cook temperatures. But I think it’s so important that – we’ve discussed this as far as ventilation. You’ve really got to make sure that you’re balancing the air that’s coming out and the air that’s going in.
RICHARD: My goodness. That is the biggest part of this story. Now, imagine you’ve got a nice, tight house. You’ve insulated the house beautifully. And you’ve got bath fans in each bathroom and each one of those bath fans will pull 50 cubic feet per minute.
We just did a scene the other day on This Old House where I took a cardboard box and showed to the American public what a cubic foot looked like: 12 inches by 12 inches by 12 inches. And you go, “Look, every time this bathroom fan – 40 of these have to leave the building, which means 40 equivalent CFM have to come back in the building somewhere.” And we talked about how important it is to have balanced ventilation.
Now, on the project we’re doing right now, we had a big commercial – a pro-style range. It needed 900 CFM – 900 of these little boxes that I showed – every minute.
TOM: That’s a lot of boxes.
LESLIE: That’s crazy. Per minute.
RICHARD: Not every hour, not every day. Every minute. And so we really had to talk about that. When that fan is on, when that stove is on, we have to install a fan to push 900 CFM of ice-cold air in the winter or super-hot air in the summer, into the building.
LESLIE: Back into the house.
RICHARD: Crazy. I think you’ve got to realize that you do it with some penalty when you go to one of these big, big commercial ranges. Because if you don’t do it – if you don’t do any makeup air – think about what happens. Now, we turn on the stove, we put on the hood, 900 CFM are now leaving the building. Where’s that air going to come from? Well, it’s going to come down every chimney, it’s going to come in through every bathroom fan, it’s going to pull on every window, it’s going to make the whole building under negative pressure.
So the biggest sort of troublemaker in the whole ventilation system in this building is this monstrous, commercial, pro-style range.
TOM: Wow. So there’s a big cost to these ranges, not only in buying them. But the operational cost, if you don’t get it just right, can really be extraordinary. But they’re really interesting and they’re definitely fun to have.
RICHARD: It reminds me of – we always saw people that come into a showroom – a plumbing showroom – and say, “I want to have that big whirlpool tub.”
RICHARD: You know that big 5-foot by 5-foot whirlpool tub? And they would forget that they also now have to put in a water heater that’s big enough.
RICHARD: This is the same thing with commercial stove. They come as a pair; you have to have ventilation to go with that commercial stove.
TOM: Good advice.
LESLIE: And you know what? You also have to make sure it’s going to fit into your house, through the door.
RICHARD: That’s right. But we have saws, we have Sawzalls. We can cut the cabinets.
TOM: Richard Trethewey, the plumbing-and-heating contractor on TV’s This Old House, thank you so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
RICHARD: Thanks. Great to be here.
LESLIE: Alright. Catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For local listings and step-by-step videos of many common home improvement projects, visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House is brought to you on PBS by Marvin Windows.
Up next, are you confident that your home is termite-free? The bugs can be hard to spot in winter but we’re going to teach you where to look for them before that damage kicks in, after this.
Where home solutions live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. Find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Now we’re going to Missouri where Tammy is having issues with her new furnace. What’s going on? Let’s talk you through this.
TAMMY: Oh, I replaced the furnace in my home here before the beginning of winter. And since then, I’ve had a buzzing noise in my breaker box every time it kicks on. I would like to say that the furnace that I replaced was about up to my knees. And the newer furnace is about chest high. Would that have something to do with the pulling of the amps or …?
TOM: Well, the size of the – physical size of the unit may or may not be related to this. It’s more like how much power is it pulling and how is it wired into the breaker box? But if you’re getting a vibration in the breaker box itself, that’s not a good sign. The breaker could be deteriorating internally and what you’re hearing are the early stages of that or perhaps the advanced stages of that. I don’t know.
I would tell you that if you’ve got that kind of a signal, I would definitely have it checked out by an electrician. Open that panel up, have him pull out those breakers, look behind them. Make sure they’re – it’s sized properly. Make sure nothing is over-fused, for example, where the wrong size fuse is being used on a wire and therefore not protecting it from overheating.
It’s definitely not a good sign and shouldn’t be happening. And you need to get it checked out further, OK, Tammy?
TAMMY: Alright. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, termites can certainly wreak havoc on your home and turning buying and selling into a nightmare. Now, the key here is to avoid the costly headache by identifying termites as soon as possible.
Now, depending on the season, it could be easier to do or certainly more difficult. Because in the summer, you have a lot more evidence; in the winter, not so much.
TOM: Yeah, true. But there are a few things you might spot in the winter that can help identify the wood munchers before they do too much damage.
The first thing you want to look for are mud tubes on your foundation walls. Now, these could be inside foundation walls or even outside foundation walls or the underside of the wood floors. Like if you were in your basement and looking up, you might see them. Now, the tubes are about a ½-inch wide and they’re made by termites to keep them in a dark and moist space while they work. They’re chewing on your house, pretty much. They’ll build them from the ground, basically, to the wood they’re working on and sort of travel back and forth. It’s like a super highway for insects. It’s crazy.
Now, if you don’t have a basement or a crawlspace, they can be even harder to spot but I’ll give you a trick of the trade. With drywall, if you hold a really strong flashlight sort of parallel to the wall, sometimes you can see that just under the surface of the paint, it looks like grooves in the wall. Those could be the termite mud tunnels right through the paper face on that piece of drywall or sheetrock. And they are just getting ready to go to town and chomp on that wood wall.
So, you can find them if you know what to look for.
LESLIE: Now, here’s a couple of things that you can do, especially in these winter months, to keep those termites away.
You want to keep any firewood that you’ve got stacked up totally away from your home’s foundation. And you should be having your home inspected yearly to check for any form of termite infestation. It’s preferable to do this in the spring or summer, just because there’ll be more evidence and easier to spot and you’ll be able to do something about it. This way, if a termite has already made their way in, you can treat the problem before serious damage is done.
TOM: Wise to be on the lookout for these bugs 12 months out of the year.
888-666-3974 is our phone number. We’d love to chat with you about what’s going on in your home. Maybe you want to update it for the year ahead. Maybe you want to do a décor project or repair project. Maybe you’re doing an addition. Want to cut those energy bills? Give us a call. All great topics for us to chat about. And hey, everyone listening is going to learn about the project, as well, and get some ideas for their own house. It all works, 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’re heading over to North Carolina where Chris has a question on flooring. What can we help you with today?
CHRIS: I had a leaking toilet that rotted my wood subfloor. I ripped it all up and I put the new pieces of wood back down.
CHRIS: Well, my cuts weren’t exactly perfect and there’s some spacing in between, like maybe three-sixteenths.
TOM: Yeah, that’s pretty good.
CHRIS: OK. It’s just in some sections. And I’m going to put down the ¼-inch cement board to put tile down here.
CHRIS: And I just wanted to know: what type of mortar do I use to put the cement board down onto this wood subfloor? And then once the cement board is down and it’s screwed in, do I have to put some type of mesh tape to put the boards together and then mortar the tape?
TOM: No. So, first of all, if you’re going to put down DUROCK, which is sort of that cement board that you’re describing, generally, that’s screwed down. So you would screw that down to the floor. And then on top of that, you would apply the adhesive for the tile. And you’d glue the tile right to the board.
TOM: You know, having those gaps in the plywood repair is no big deal because that’s all going to be covered over. Just make sure that when you put the cement board down that you don’t align the seams of the board with any of the old seams of the plywood below it.
TOM: Everything should overlap.
CHRIS: Do I still have to put the mesh tape, though, for the boards – the cement boards – or no?
TOM: Yeah, I don’t think so.
TOM: I think you can go right on top of that. As long as you have good adhesion of those boards down, they’re secured well in place, they shouldn’t move.
CHRIS: OK, great.
TOM: Chris, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Coming up, easy ideas to help make your bathroom more accessible for families of any age, without giving up style, so stick around.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show where we make good homes better. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement question or post it on The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com. You can also reach us on social media. You can post to us at Twitter.com/MoneyPit or Facebook.com/TheMoneyPit. We’d love to connect with you. Maybe you could post some pictures of your project. We can get back to you with some ideas to help get you going on the right foot.
But right now, we’re going to jump into The Money Pit’s Community section because there are some folks waiting there for some answers, starting with Julie in Chicago.
LESLIE: That’s right. Julie from Chicago writes: “The sliding-glass doors on my tub enclosure were looking disgusting so I removed them, including the frames’ strips. Can I replace the doors myself or should I hire someone? Is there anything tricky about this project?”
TOM: Well, I don’t think there’s anything tricky about it. It’s a pretty easy project. But one thing that could be tricky is if you have tile walls, because that frame for the sliding-glass door – that door-frame channel – would have been attached through the tile to the wall below it – bolt behind it, I should say.
Now, if you’re going to have to drill through a ceramic tile, first of all you want to get it right because you don’t want to put too many holes in your ceramic tile. And it’s got to be done properly. And secondly, you need a special drill bit for that which, of course, is a masonry bit. It’s got a different type of tip on it. There’s also a special type of drill that works better and that is a hammer drill, because it vibrates the drill, basically, in and out as it spins it. And it helps cut through tile – I mean like butter – if you do it right.
So, as long as you can figure out how to drill through the tile – if you do, in fact, have to do that, Julie – I think it is a project that you can do yourself. You want to make sure that you use good-quality silicone caulk on those channels. You want to put a good bead of it behind it and then on the edges, too. And the reason I say silicone is because it’s less likely to grow mold and mildew and look disgusting, which is the reason you pulled the old one off.
TOM: So, I think that’s a good place to start.
And I don’t know, Leslie. I personally do prefer those doors more than shower curtains, because we’ve got shower curtains in my house. And I’ll tell you, it seems like they last about two to three weeks before they start growing mold and we’ve got to take them down and wash them again. They just get moldy so quick.
LESLIE: Oh, that’s interesting. See, I don’t find that problem with shower curtains. And having two boys in my family and one full bath, I definitely prefer the shower curtain. Because those kids just walk in and out of the bathroom as often as possible, of course, when you’re trying to just take a shower. So, curtains for me but I do love the look of a glass enclosure in a shower. It’s just so lovely and so clean.
Alright. Corinne in Pennsylvania writes: “The black, flexible spacers between the three big concrete slabs that make up my driveway are brittle and coming out. How do I replace them? With what? And can I do it myself?”
TOM: Definitely. So, go ahead and pull the rest of those out and then dig into those slabs so that you clear about the whole, say, 4-inch depth out. What you next want to do is install what’s called a “backer rod,” which is like a foam bead that gets stuck in there. It kind of looks like a miniature pool noodle. You know those things kids play with in the summer? You stick it down there so it’s about an inch below the surface and then you pour on top a flowable urethane sealant, which will ride across it, not fall down deep in the crack because it’s protected by the backer rod. And it will seal that nicely and it won’t dry out and look all disgusting like those black spacers look right now.
Definitely a do-it-yourself project. Should be able to do it in a weekend. No problem.
LESLIE: Seriously. Two email questions tonight about things looking gross. What’s going on in the new year, you guys?
TOM: You are listening to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. We’re here for you, 24/7. If you’ve got a home improvement question that pops to mind, pick up the phone, call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. We’ll call you back the next time we’re in the studio.
You can also post your question on any of our social-media platforms – Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and the like – or in The Money Pit’s Community section at MoneyPit.com. And I hope we’ve given you a few good ideas today to help you get started on your next project.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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From Source Article: moneypit.com