TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this beautiful fall weekend? If it’s your residence, you are in the right place because we are here to help you get those chores done. Whether you’re doing it yourself, hiring a pro- whether it’s repair, remodel, home renovation or maybe exactly planning for the future- give us a call right now. Let us talk you through it at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s prove, floors make up the largest horizontal surface in any dwelling. And fall is the most popular time of the year for an update. But with so many new types to choose from- and they are only stop rolling them out, folks- we’ve got hardwood, we’ve got engineered, we’ve got laminate, we’ve got vinyl, we’ve got engineered vinyl. I imply how do you know what’s right for you? We’re travelling to have some easy steps to help you choose, only ahead.
LESLIE: Plus, the gardening season is winding down but that doesn’t mean you have to give up on all those fresh veggies. A greenhouse can keep them stretching strong. We’re going to review some DIY options to build your own from kits.
TOM: And have you made a good look at your driveways and garage floorings or walkways and noticed some rifts? Well , the time is right to seal them up before winter’s frost designates in and represents them worse. We’ll have a guide on how to do time that.
LESLIE: But first, this show is about helping you with your own home decor and improvement questions. So call in your home improvement question now and you’re was just going to get the answer. Plus, today you’ll too get a chance at acquiring tools to assist you get the job done.
We’re featuring the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar-Clamp Package worth 80 bucks.
TOM: So, give us a call right now. The count is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. That’s 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Bob in Illinois is on the line and "workin on" a kitchen makeover. What can we do for you?
BOB: Oh, we’ve got kitchen cabinets- they’re probably close to 30 years old- and we’re wanting to remodel our kitchen and I’m wanting to strip them down. And I was just wondering what was the best way- what to use to get it on with.
TOM: Well, the very best information is that 30 -year-old cabinets are generally very, particularly well-built. You can’t really strip down a 10 -year-old cabinet, since they were pretty much come apart. But if it’s a 30 -year-old plywood cabinet, you can definitely row it.
Now, what do you want to do after you divest it? Do you want to coat it or do you want to go with a clearly defined veneer?
BOB: I’d like to go with a clear membrane on it. Maybe articulated a pecan finish on it or something.
LESLIE: And what’s on there now? Are they just discoloured or are they covered?
BOB: No, they’re time stained.
TOM: It’s hard to change the color of a stained board. I’m just telling you only be prepared for that. But what you might want to do is use a good-quality stripper. Like Rock Miracle, for example, is a good one.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, another thing that’s good to do is head over to your local mom-and-pop draw browse, because sometimes there are newer commodities who the hell is out there.
I was just getting some wallpaper adhesive but in that section, there were some certainly nice paint strippers. They apply a little differently, they go on more easily, they work more quickly. So I always merely pop into the shop to kind of accompany what they’ve get in there that they’ve worked with.
But Tom and I have both expended Rock Miracle and I like that because it gone on more like a glue, so you can really construe where it is, you can see it start to work. And I guess it depends on how much stain is on there, how dirty they are.
I would start by handing them a good clean. Then make sure they’re dried very well, then kept the stripper on them. Follow the directions. And you’re going to want to use a cable brushing and a dye scraper. And that’s going to get that finish off of there.
Now, it’s important to work on them on a flat skin-deep, so take all the doors and drawer front off. Label them as you take them down, with a piece of strip on the back surface of the members of the council doorway and one on the cabinet box itself so that you know exactly where things croak. And leave the hinges on the box places so that you can have the doors flat. These are things that are just tricks of the trade that will help you be more successful.
And if your openings are full overlay- are they or are they not?
BOB: Are they what now?
LESLIE: When your cabinet entrance closes, do you realize any of the cabinet box around it, like a frame? Or does the door cover it?
BOB: Yeah, it does; it flushes up against the enclose of the cabinet.
LESLIE: So, that’s a backing and a swear. Because then you can ignore the box or you can also work on the box while it’s in place, to strip that down, as well. And in that case, the Rock Miracle is really good because it’s certainly thick, so it’ll stay on in a horizontal predicament, as well. So, those are some good things.
And you may have to apply it more than formerly, depending on how well-adhered your discolour currently is. I mean you’ve certainly got to see. And then keep in mind that depending on the species of wood, the type of color that you might get from the stain that you’ve selected to go on there might be a little different. So you might want to work on a back side or a smaller area, just so you can see how it will respond and what emblazon you’ll actually end up with.
BOB: Thank you, then.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Dina in New Jersey on the line who’s dealing with something going on with the chimney. What’s happening? You’ve got grout crumble? What’s leading on there?
DINA: I have water, apparently, leaking in and it’s coming down around the fancy bricks of my hearth. Because I hear the cement disintegrating and I witness changes of- after a rain that I had, it’s darker over on the cement that’s crumbling.
I’ve had my chimney relined and I simply don’t know what it is. They said maybe it’s the flashing up on top that needs to be repointed and then it should be shut. I just don’t know where to start and I’m getting high-pitched, big-hearted prices.
TOM: Alright, Dina. This is a masonry chimney?
TOM: A brick chimney, yes. OK. Masonry chimney, OK. Same difference.
DINA: OK, thank you for being there for parties like me.
TOM: Alright. “No, it’s not masonry, it’s brick.” “Well, that clears it up.”
Alright, look, when you have a masonry/brick chimney, at the top there is a chimney cap, which is a concrete lip that becomes between the duct liner and the outside of the brick edge. And often, "when youve got" seeps, that concrete crack- cap is cracked. And it’s a very minor repair to seal those hits or even to oust those fractures- that concrete part. It’s just a little, perhaps 6-inch-deep section of concrete that’s sort of troweled between the clay vent liner and the outside edge of the brick.
So the first thing I would do is seal the chinks or rifts around that and see if that fixes it. Now, the openings are coming into the chimney. They’re not coming around the chimney by the ceiling, right? So that necessitates- that kind of eliminates flashing, because the flashing shuts the gap between the masonry chimney and the roof. And if the flashing was failed, then you would have, probably, openings when you look up at your ceiling. The chimney itself is disclosing, so the most common culprit is simply that concrete cap or that masonry detonator in all regions of the top of it.
The other thing that you could do is you could threw a chimney cap on this, because that has the effect of sort of arrange a ceiling over your chimney without actually blocking the chimney. And sometimes, that will dissuade the loudnes of irrigate from getting into it.
Now, the- one of the things I have to caution you about is that the chimney contractors- the chimney embroils- that do these sorts of fixings are a disingenuous radical. They’re not the most honest contractors out there and they almost always try to tell you a tale of woe, of fatality and destruction that will befall upon you unless you open your checkbook open wide and write them a big number. So, just be careful to find somebody reputable that can dig into what’s going on and really do what’s required but not an excessive extent of work on it, OK?
DINA: Uh-huh. They’ve also mentioned make repointing on the chimney and then waterproofing it.
TOM: If it turns out that the masonry is cracked or deteriorated or falling out between the bricks, certainly repointing- but I think it’s a lot simpler than that. I think most likely it’s just some minor cracks in the chimney cap.
DINA: Uh-huh. Because what they showed me was- they said, “See? There’s moss stretching here. So that means that there’s water in between the bricks.”
TOM: There’s always going to be water in a chimney. It’s a masonry structure; it holds moisture. And if you’ve went moss, you can settled a mildicide on it. You can settle a product like Concrobium on there that will kill that moss or another product announced Wet& Forget that will kill that moss. And then beyond that, you need to get to the source of the reveal, which I think is that chimney cap.
So let’s not overcomplicate it, OK? Let’s see if that thin concrete detonator is cracked and get that fixed.
DINA: Thank you so very much. And now I know that bricks are masonry. Thank you.
TOM: Alright. Thanks so much. Bye-bye.
LESLIE: John in Delaware is dealing with a spider problem. I can’t even talk about it for fear they will jump into my house. What’s going on?
JOHN: I moved to the beach about 10 years ago. I’m not- I’m 12 miles from the water but I don’t know whether that’s part of the problem or not. But "weve had" spiders inside the house all the time. They’re always in the corners of the apartment. It’s rare to come into any chamber and not have one. And it seems like as quickly as you be disposed of them, a week last-minute "youve had" more in the same ranges. And it is very annoying.
TOM: What do you do to get rid of them, John?
JOHN: The exclusively thing I do is I try to kill them and knock down their little web.
TOM: Good luck with that. That’s not working out too well for you, I gamble, huh?
JOHN: No, it’s not.
TOM: You’re not was just going to earn the fighting if that’s your therapy coming. The thing about insects today is the best way to control them is through science. And if you look at a company like Orkin - you are aware, a company that’s been around forever- these people know exactly what insecticide to put down, they know how to made it down in the right amounts and the products that they use today are very insect-specific.
It exerted to be that there was sort of a broad-spectrum pesticide that was put down. Today, the pesticides are very, very specific for the problem. And if I was dealing with this in my house, I wouldn’t be running around with my boot trying to kill them all. I would have the pesticide implemented within the right amounts, right place and be done with it.
So, I would recommend that you call Orkin and have that taken care of the right way. It’s safer to do that than to buy over-the-counter pesticides, which you end up over-applying- which are far more dangerous, in my opinion- and certainly a great deal less baffling than having to stomp them to extinction, OK?
So, I would application a pesticide to domination these spiders and that’s the best solution.
JOHN: OK. And you would not advise trying to do it on your own. You’d advise getting a company that’s- would pay them regularly to have them come back?
TOM: Yeah, you can’t buy the products that a professional can buy. They’re not available to the public because they have to be applied just right. That’s why it’s a good project to turn to a pro, like Orkin.
John, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breeze and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call anytime at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home service pros in your neighbourhood. You can predict reviews and book appointments all online.
Well, fall is the most popular time of year for adding brand-new floorings. But with so many types to choose from, how do you know what’s right for you? We’re going to have some easy steps to help you choose, in today’s Pro Project presentation by HomeAdvisor.com, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. Find top-rated home service pros and diary appointments online, all for free.
TOM: And if you call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, you might just win the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar-Clamp Package that we’ve got to give away. With these helpful fixes, you’ll be able to clamp with one handwriting. Plus, they always can be joined together to double-dealing the capacity for bigger jobs. You’re going to come two of the secures for an estimated value of 80 bucks.
That package is going out to one listener outlined at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Chris in Pennsylvania is having a problem with a dishwasher. What’s going on?
CHRIS: Bought a new house and I’m a first-time homeowner. And my home was built in 1957. And so, I was just wondering if I would have to hire separate people to work on the carpentry, the electric and the plumbing? Or is there somebody, like a regular contractor, that they are able to leant a dishwasher in?
TOM: Do you have a seat for a dishwasher right now, Chris? Or has one never been installed?
CHRIS: One’s never been installed.
TOM: OK. So you’ve got to figure out where you’re going to situated this and it’s going to take away from some board space.
Now, typically, the dishwasher is next to the kitchen sink. And if you happen to have, say, a 24 -inch closet next to your kitchen capsize, that will be the perfect place to do that. But this is going to take a bit of cultivate. You’re departing is essential to do carpentry and I think you’ll need a carpenter and probably a plumber to do this. And you may need an electrician, depending on whether or not the plumber could do the wire for you or if there’s wire right there you are able to drag from.
Because what has to happen is you’d remove the cabinet to create that 24 -inch gap, then the dishwasher would slip in there. And it needs to be plumbed, so you need to have the ply position and the pump run mostly through the side cabinet wall, where the settle is, and tap into the plumbing there. Then, of course, it needs to have electricity, so you’ll need to have an outlet installed. So it is a bit of development projects, I’ll say to you that.
LESLIE: Yeah. But if she were to hire somebody like a general contractor- who have been able those subs in his arsenal, if you are able to, or at least access to those people- they would better supervise the entire project and sort of take all of that worry out of your hands.
TOM: Or just a really good handyman. The hassle is that, theoretically, or at least technically speaking, you need a licensed plumber to do the plumbing employ and you need a licensed electrician to do the electrical work.
TOM: Alright, Chris?
CHRIS: Alright. I recognize your advice.
TOM: Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, flooring is playing a key role in your mansion. And refurbishes can increase your home’s appraise, esthetics and function. But the choices for the different types of flooring is really be dizzying. So before you start tearing up carpet, we’ve got a few things to consider, in today’s Pro Project presentation by HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Now, first, you want to think about what flooring fits the road "youre living in" a particular room.
So, for example, if you or your kids are spending a lot of time baby-sit or dallying on the floor, carpet or area rugs could be the way to go. But if allergies are an issue, wood storeys, tile, laminate, engineered vinyl, those types of surfaces might be better.
LESLIE: Now, cost of each kind of material are going to vary widely and depending on the quality and of course, square footage.
Now, the labor penalties can dwarf the material expense. So the harder the flooring is to install, the more the labor is going to cost.
TOM: But before you make choices about where to cut those costs and where to splurge, it actually comes down to the flooring itself. Keep in subconsciou that floors get more wear and tear than any other part of the house. So you might save money up-front buying lower-grade materials and doing the station yourself but it could provided free of charge more in the long run.
LESLIE: Now, you’ve got to think carefully about the use of the room, traffic patterns, kids, domesticateds and anything else that can do damage to your flooring. Also, thoughts about that room’s location. If the flooring is for a lavatory, kitchen or basement, water-resistant has got to be important. But fortunately, the authorities have so many new hand-pickeds in laminates and engineered vinyls that really closely imitation the gape of for-real wood floorings that you can consider something that actually is like the real deal.
TOM: Now, one cost that homeowners often forget- but we don’t want you to forget- is preparing the subfloor. If you don’t happen to have a clean, flat, position surface, you may need a contractor to do the prep drive before you are able to put down any flooring materials.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your province, compare prices, speak confirmed reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No content the type of job, HomeAdvisor induces it fast and easy to hire very best local pros.
LESLIE: Stuart in Louisiana is on the line and has a question about light bulbs. What can we do for you?
STUART: I was curious about choosing the correct kind of light bulb- fluorescent versus LED- and what wattage if I- whichever one I choose.
TOM: So, compact-fluorescent technology is pretty much fading now- amnesty the pun- and I think what you really want to look at is some of the many selections in LEDs. In terms of wattage, you are aware, it’s not really measured in wattage anymore; it’s measured in lumens. But generally speaking, if you do hear a wattage gauge on the bulb, it’s going to be about 25 percent of what you’re access to going in terms of light output.
So, for example, a bulb that would deliver the equivalent of around 100 watts of light, that you might be used to in an incandescent bulb, is only going to use about 25 watts or less of electricity, exclusively because it’s that much more efficient. A pile of kinfolks don’t recognize that wattage is a measure of power; it’s not a measure of dawn. Light’s measured by lumens. But we’re just so accustomed, over the years, to choosing the wattage when it comes to bulb and understanding how much light-headed that delivers.
But if you’re trying to figure out about what the shift proportion is, it’s about 25 percent. It exercises about 25 percent of the power to deliver the same ignited that you would’ve goes out of, say, the 100 -watt incandescent bulb in my lesson. Do that make sense?
STUART: It can certainly. So what lumen wander would I be mostly looking forward to if I demanded to have the same quantity of wattage- I’m sorry- same sum of light as a 100-watt light bulb?
TOM: Good question. A 100 -watt incandescent bulb is going to deliver about 1,600 lumens. So, not that easy to do the math. It’s not really convenient. But that’s what it is. A 100 -watt bulb delivers about 1,600 lumens; 75 -watt bulb would deliver around, say, 1,000 to 1,100 lumens. So that’s the compas that you’re glancing for.
STUART: Fantastic. Thank you very much for your assistance.
TOM: Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Give us a announce with your dwelling repair or home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Hey, how about building a greenhouse in order to be allowed to have fresh veggies all time long? We’re going to help you out with some DIY tips-off to get that job done, after this.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a label, right now, with your drop-off home improvement questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. It’s my favorite epoch of the year because it’s not too hot and not too cold. You can get pretty much any racket done around your home, inside or out. And we are here to help. Whatever is on your to-do list, slip it over to ours by cry us at 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Bob in South Dakota is dealing with a drywall issue. What’s going on at your house?
BOB: We have a 1990 s residence and we had sheetrock nails that were put in that began popping, mainly toward the ceiling area and angles- inside regions- especially. And we had a contractor do- redo some. We redid some ourselves. One of the things they did and we did is we just drove the nails in and reported them and made a clamp maybe 2 to 3 inches from it. But the nails reappeared after we did it. What’s the answer?
TOM: Well, it would if you time drove it back in and didn’t framed a second nail that overlaps it.
LESLIE: And then it’s in the same hole, so it’s given the same movement area.
Now, what Tom mentioned with the second nail is you’re right putting a pin in; a clamp is a great way to do that. But if you’re putting a screwing in, I would have made out the fingernail instead of giving it the room to come back out.
But what you can do, if you learn the nail to start backing its way out, you can take a second nail and overlap it so that the two heads would overlap. So when you drive in the second nail, it pushes that first nail back down with it and will keep it in its region. Because the new tack is in fresh wood, so it’ll stay there. And then you go ahead and mask over it and sand it and spackle it, everything. Make it delightful and smooth to prime and paint.
But a screw really is the best way, because those won’t back themselves out.
BOB: What do you think, in your professional ruling- I’ve listened to your indicate a good deal and just as a plug for you guys, thanks a lot for all of the useful hints. But what do you think has caused those screwings to pop like that- or fingernails, I should say?
TOM: Ordinary expansion and reduction. You know, the claws that are used to attach drywall have a adhesive coating on them. They’re like a rosin coating. And when you drive the claw in, it’s supposed to kind of stick in the wall but it doesn’t. And as the walls expand and contract, they very often will back out. It’s really usual. It would be singular for it, frankly, to not happen.
But the key is that when it does happen, if you just drive it back in it’s going to happen all over again. But if you were to overlap the old-fashioned nailhead with a brand-new nailhead so that you’re now developing kind of a second nail and a second nail hole that’s propping it in place, that’s effective. Or you draw out the drywall hammer absolutely and supersede it with a drywall screwing and it will never pull out.
The fact that you articulated the screwing 2 or 3 inches from the old-fashioned one will help keep that council tight but it’s not going to stop the drywall nail from expanding and contracting and propagandizing itself back out, as you’ve learned. You precisely - you really need to sort of reinforce it by overlapping the heads with a new nail.
BOB: OK. Yeah, that sounds good. And I see, from what I’ve participate, if we draw the age-old nail and kept a bolt in a ways away, I think that’s the best solution. Because then we don’t have any possibility of anything happening there again and doing away with developments in the situation completely.
TOM: Trial and flaw is the best, right?
BOB: Absolutely. Thank you guys so much. Thank you for the great show.
TOM: Alright. Thanks so much for entitle us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, now that it’s the drop season, are you thinking how are you going to have those fresh veggies at my fingertips all time long? Well, you can if "were living" in a four-season climate but maybe you don’t have that option. You can, though, if you build or buy a greenhouse.
So, if you think building a greenhouse is a big deal, it actually doesn’t have to be. You’ve came restriction opening, a mini-greenhouse is a great option. There are small and portable options that can fit into a narrow sphere. There’s low-pitched tunnel-style greenhouses. That’s another one. And because of their size, they can be used and then readily removed and stored.
TOM: Now, prefab is another way to go from there. These greenhouses are often sold as kits. They’ve came openings, they’ve went shelves and they can take up only 30 or 40 square paws of space.
But if you’re lucky enough to have a larger piece of land, you can add a traditional greenhouse. That’s always fun. This type of structure has walls and a ceiling that are made from, usually, a see-through material, generally glass but sometimes plastic or acrylic. And the glass can capture heat in the structure while protecting the inside from these components, like freezing and blizzard and wind.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, greenhouses are typically fitted with counters or shelves on which you are able to germinate the seeds. Generally, those kinds of greenhouses are manually heated, which is really great if you do live in a cooler climate.
TOM: Now, we’ve got a very detailed announce on all the options with greenhouses, on MoneyPit.com. So check it out. It’s called “Grow Fresh Veggies All Year Long, ” and is on the home page, right now, at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Trudy in Delaware needs some promotion jazzing up her brick home. What can we do for you?
TRUDY: I have a single-family house and the locate of it is not finished, from the soil up to where the siding starts. And I’m are looking forward to is common knowledge that I could use on that so I have a more finished look.
TOM: So is it a brick groundwork, Trudy?
TRUDY: No , no. It’s a brick figurehead and then the sides and the back is surfacing. But from the grime- from the ground up to where the siding starts is about maybe 2 feet. It’s merely basic cement, unfinished seem. And I wanted to know what I( inaudible ).
TOM: Right. There’s a couple things you can do. You can do something real simple, like cover it. You would use a masonry coat for that exterior. Masonry paint.
The other thing that you could do is you could stucco that. Now, that’s a little bit more work but there are premixed stucco desegregates that you can buy at a home core. And with a few cases tools, you could apply a stucco to that, perhaps situated a little of a motif on it. And it is required to do that, though, by following all the right stairs for prep. Because if you don’t get it right, it’ll freeze and break off.
But those would be the two easiest ways to clean that up.
TRUDY: OK. So, yeah, I didn’t crave something to start chipping off or the cover to start slinking( ph ).
TOM: Right. Well, that’s why you’ve got to use the right products with the cover. You’ve got to prime it and you’ve got to use an exterior-quality masonry colour. And kind of the same thing with the stucco. You’ve got to use the right tools and the claim application methods and make sure it’s nice and clean and cool when you start and it’ll hold up neatly. Alright, Trudy?
TRUDY: OK. Thank you so much.
TOM: Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime 24 hours per day, 7 days a week at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Just ahead, have you make a good look at your driveway, the garage floor, walkways? Maybe you’re seeing some crannies? Well , the time is right to shut those up before the winter’s frost really provides in and exclusively acquires them worse. We’re going to have a guide to do only that, next.
TOM: Where home answers live, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it cost to do your dwelling assignment before you hire a pro and instantly diary one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
TOM: And if you do give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, you’ll get the answer to your home improvement question and a chance at prevailing a really fun tool pack we’re giving away.
We’ve got the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar Clamps to give away. And I love these clamps because they’re very easy to use. In fact, you can clamp with one hand, which is handy, extremely if you’re impounding the project together with the other while you get the clamp in place. Plus, if you’ve got a really big project, well, they can be joined together and that can double the capacity for those big projects.
You’re going to come two of the E-Z Hold Medium-Duty Expandable Bar Clamps for a total quality of 80 bucks if you pick up the phone and call us right now. We might just draw your reputation out of that group of folks and hold those fixes to you. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ryan in Georgia is in hot water, literally. What’s going on at your money cavity, Ryan?
RYAN: Something kind of bested me for a little bit. I’ve got an idea of what it might be but I’m not 100 -percent sure. I’ve got something that I have, which is very- it’s always really hot in Georgia about 80 percent of the time. And every time, when we turn- during the day, we turn on the cold water. It’s scalding, scalding hot for about two to four minutes and it depends- that the section on, I guess, what time of day it is. But the- I could even turn on the hot water and the hot water will be a lot colder than the cold water. And eventually, it will get colder. But I checked every other water source in my house.
I’ve checked the shower and the showers are fine; it’s not affected whatsoever. The alone thing, assuming- that I think it might be, which you guys probably know further information on this than I do is- the reason why it’s not doing it in the showers- because that has the- I don’t know if you want to call it the “thermostat” or a “temperature gauge” that controls the cold water and the hot water that makes sure it’s not too hot. And I imagine, since we’re in Georgia, a great deal of the pipes are in the attic and attics. When it’s most- when it’s 90 to 100 magnitudes out, they- comes moderately red-hot in our attics.
TOM: Well, I think you’re right on track with that ideology, Ryan, because I’ve seen that in my own home in New Jersey. I know it’s not in every fixture, of course, because it genuinely depends on how the pipes are moved. But I know that the nature my kitchen is built, it was sort of an- it’s an addition that was done in the early 1900 s. And the plumbing on that is sort of the- on the furthermost southern wall.
It gets very, very warm there during the day and sometimes, when we don’t implement it all day- and then I turn it on, I do get hot water through the coldnes faucet. And I know that’s exactly because the pipings in that area are being exposed to a lot of heat. And the hoses are just warming up and it’s warming the irrigate in turn. But after that warm water that’s in those pipes that are right in that encircling area leads through information systems, it gets cold again.
So I think that’s exactly what you’re seeing here. I don’t necessarily think it’s a problem. It’s more of an annoyance and yes, it does squander a little bit of water. But does this happen in the winter or is it simply a summertime question?
RYAN: No, no. Not 100 percentage if it happens in the winter. But it might but I know even our attics sometimes, in the winter, does get pretty decently heated, extremely. But the- I know it’s unquestionably in the spring, come and summer.
TOM: I imply the only thing that you could do is you could segregate those pipings. If you can get access to them, you have been able lean fiberglass insulating sleeves around your cold-water pipes and that would prevent them from overheating as they are right now.
RYAN: That’ll even make a difference, even though they’re- all the piping is all in the attic? The attic’s fairly hot.
TOM: Well, right, wherever they’re heating up. And that spray gets to your faucet from the attic really quick.
RYAN: Alright. So merely a fiberglass sleeve? I’ve seen a little- looks like foam- pitch-black foam sleeves. Does that the project works, extremely?
TOM: Yeah. You could do that, too. I meditate the fiberglass sleeves are a little bit most expensive but they’ll work better.
RYAN: OK. Yeah, I’ll obviously do that then.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck with that project, Ryan. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT. Glad we were able to solve that mystery.
LESLIE: Well, winter is likely to be upon us in exactly two or three more months. And when that cold locateds in, small-scale crackings that you may have in your driveway, the garage flooring or walkways can get filled with water that’s going to freeze and expand and it’s was just going to attain them a lot bigger. That’s why now is the best time to seal those up before winter’s frost sets in and establishes them worse.
Well, QUIKRETE has a line of commercial-grade sealants and adhesives that can suit any concrete or masonry fixing that you are required to. And they shared some tips-off on how to handle two types of sounds, in particular.
TOM: Yeah. So, first, let’s talk about small hits. And I define those as less than 1/4-inch wide. These are most likely the result of shrinkage as the concrete cures. And they’re really easy to repair exploiting QUIKRETE’s Advanced Polymer Concrete Crack Sealant.
This product is super adaptable so formerly it’s worked, it can expand and contract with the sound and therefore, thwart ocean from- and therefore protect the liquid from seeping in and performing the hit worse.
LESLIE: Now, for bigger fissures or chinks in expansion joints that can get filled with a lot of grime, QUIKRETE makes an Advanced Polymer Self-Leveling Sealant that’s super effective in load those divergences and stopping sea from extending for the purposes of the concrete slab, which can lead to bigger problems with settlement and cracks.
Now, for that concoction, it’s best to clean out the divergences of grime or dusts, fill in the gaps with sponsor rod first and then apply the sealant over the rod.
TOM: And now is a really important time to do this, because if that liquid gets in there it’s going to freeze and it’s going to expand and it’s going to oblige the concrete a lot worse over this winter. So, make love formerly, make love right, you won’t have to make love again.
The QUIKRETE Advanced Polymer sealants and cements are solvent- and isocyanurate-free, so you’ll get an environmentally-friendly and exceedingly superior solution to traditional polyurethane technology. They’ve got a fast-cure technology, as well. It becomes tack-free in about an hour. They’re accessible at home centers and lumberyards throughout the U.S. for between six and eight bucks a tube.
QUIKRETE. It’s what America is made of. Learn more at QUIKRETE.com.
LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime with your home restore or residence increase question 24 hours a day, 7 days a few weeks at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Just ahead, in numerous territories, showers in residences that have windows aren’t required to have exhaust supporters, which is a real hassle for homeowners. We’ll talk through the fix, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a occupation. Use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others have paid under same assignments, all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
And don’t forget you can always pole your question on Money Pit’s Facebook page or right in The Money Pit Community section, just like Ronnie did in California.
Now, Ronnie writes: “My house was built in 1960 and there are no exhaust fans in the bathroom. I’d like to put up crown molding in the lavatories but is it going to swell from the moisture? Is there a certain type that I should be using? ”
TOM: You know, it is true that if you have a window in your lavatory, that house codes will not require you to have an deplete follower. So, it’s kind of dumb because who is going to open up the windows in January? Well, maybe in California you would- in Southern California- but certainly not in the East Coast or anywhere in between.
But look, if you’re worried about moisture, you should be putting up composite molding. It’s made of PVC and it can’t rot. But there are bigger sweat headaches that you’ll need to deal with, like molding and mildew. So, I would definitely explore ways to get a bath exhaust fan in that room, even though it is you have to run it up through the attic and out, in terms of the exhaust ducting. Because not having that humidity showing out can lead to a lot of mildew and mildew questions that you just really do want to avoid.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, Patricia in Buffalo writes: “My heating greenbacks have been really high and I’m thinking about beefing up isolation before the winter establisheds in. I’m interested to know the difference between fiberglass and newer spray-foam insulation.”
TOM: That’s a great question. Fiberglass, of course, is the traditional separation. The major difference is that when you introduced that in your attic, you have to vent it because your attics are going to be moist and mute and the fiberglass "re going to have to" be bone-dry to work properly.
In my house, I actually had fiberglass. I left it in place but then I computed scatter foam to the underside of the roof sheathing and totally shut in the attic. And I have never been more comfy and my legislations have never been lower, because that insulation shall not be required to be ventilated. So once you get it on, you can basically close up all of the volcanoes because the attic becomes, essentially, an extension of your living space.
LESLIE: Well, experience preventing those heating statements down in a much warmer mansion this winter.
TOM: Well, are you new to the fanciful life of its ownership? Well, then, exceedingly shortly, you’re probably "il be going" brand-new to the splendid macrocosm of dwelling improvement, as well. We’re going to have some gratuities to help you get started on your very first assignments. Leslie has some gratuities, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
Leslie? Always a project that it is important to done.
LESLIE: Seriously. But first, congratulations. You’re the proud owned of your unusually first home. Now what?
Well, like a newborn, a home’s got to be cared for and desired and likewise, like a newborn, nobody gives you regulations on how to take care of it, whether it’s a house or that babe. So, here’s actually what it comes down to: as a first-time homeowner, it’s your job to maintain your dwelling year-round.
So, the first thing to do is invest in the tools that you need to do that. Now, a essential toolbox should include a mallet, some screwdrivers, a pry bar, a level and an adjustable wrench. You can add some superpower implements later or right away but you should include a drill and a circ interpret. Those tend to really cros all the bases.
Now, understanding the basics of your home’s mechanical systems is absolutely necessary. So spawn sure you know where your water-main line is, how to slam it off if there’s an emergency. And get acquainted with that fuse or breaker chest. And remember that home ownership throws you in charge of covering all of those utilities. So, if the initial months in your new abode have given you sticker outrage over ability and ocean expenditures, take some steps to manage your power dollars.
Finally, even if you’re in a brand-new home that’s under warranty, it’s wise to have a contingency fund to cushion those curveballs that life could hurl at every homeowner. If you crave some more enormous gratuities, simply Google “money quarry first-time homeowner tips.”
TOM: The objective is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, the most active part of typhoon season is upon us and no one is more vulnerable than our senior citizens, especially if they live alone. We’re exiting to have gratuities to assist you impede those important kinfolks in your life safe from weather disasters, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t "re going to have to" get it on alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio record may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Yield, Inc .)
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When I meet with homeowner’s considering selling their homes, they are often curious about the best way to prepare their home to sell without spending a large amount of money. The desired end result of preparing your home to sell is an increased bottom line when the home is sold.
Let’s look at added value in the reverse. Instead of picturing preparing your home to sell for a higher price, picture preparing it so that it doesn’t sell for a lower price. Read that again! That’s the same thing right? Wrong! Think about it: If the market for a home similar to yours brings $400,000 in tip-top condition and yours is not in tip-top condition, is it likely to also bring $400,000? If you answered no to that question, then you now see my point. This method of preparing your home to sell accomplishes two things. First it helps you avoid getting low-ball offers. Second it keeps you from pricing yourself out of the market by over-improving.
Here are a few ideas that will help you add value to your home without breaking the bank:Cleaning: Deep clean your home – inside and out. This includes appliances. The benefit to a buyer is the ability to truly see and appreciate your home. Buyers will come to their own conclusion about how well you’ve cared for your home by how clean it is. You don’t want to hear phrases like “this home’s been lived in”. Trust me, that is not a compliment. Walls: A fresh coat of paint will change the entire appearance of your home and one of the best steps in preparing your home to sell! Be sure to choose a neutral color. This year, shades of gray are the new white. Wallpaper can be expensive to remove; however, if properly sealed in place, a coat of primer and paint will solve your problem. Flooring: Ideally replacing the carpet prior to selling is preferred; however, if it is in good condition, just have it stretched to smooth any buckled areas, then have it cleaned. Don’t stop with cleaning the carpet, have your ceramic tile and/or hardwood flooring cleaned as well. Fixtures: Replace outdated fixtures with brushed nickel, antique bronze, or brushed brass. Lighting: Add life to your lighting! Consider changing the single overhead light to a monorail track. It gives you the option to have a central base for easy installation while also giving you the flexibility of light placement, direction, and styles! Staging: Consider having your home staged. Buyers are wowed by what they see as they walk through the home. A neat, clean, warm, welcoming space adds to a buyer’s desire to purchase. They may offer more for the home because it appears to be in better condition. Kitchen: Clean your cabinets. Re-stain or paint your kitchen cabinets. Update the knobs or handles. The cabinetry should complement the appliances so no white appliances with Espresso cabinets please. Bathroom: Try overhead pendant lights at the vanity, and then add dimmers to create ambiance. Update the Fixtures. How about a square vanity sink vs. round? Better yet, make it a work of art and install an above-counter basin. Install a Rain Shower. Again, visit the condition of your cabinets. Consider re-staining or painting them and updating the knobs/drawer pulls. Keep your vanities clean and de-cluttered. Or, try these inexpensive bathroom updates to help sell your home. Bedrooms: Re-arrange the furniture to show off the space. You may need to remove a few pieces. This will come in handy when the buyer tries to determine if their king sized bed will fit. Closets and storage spaces: This is a feature often overlooked by sellers yet coveted by buyers. De-clutter and organize your closets. Show off your storage space! Buyers always find value in homes with plenty of closets and hiding places. Nuisance Repairs: These are the pesky “I’ll get to it later” items that are often ignored. Use this list to spark your memory of these and other deferred maintenance items that you can quickly and inexpensively repair: Make sure the doorbell actually rings and that the paint on the front door isn’t peeling, re-attach the smoke detector, check the spindles on the staircase, re-seal the deck and/or patio, caulk around your bathtubs and windows, and spruce up the landscaping.
You’ve not spent a lot of money preparing your home to sell but you’ve made your home a lot more appealing to buyers, which equates to added value! Way to go!
Editors Note: Leneiva Head is a top real estate broker and founder of Welcome Home Realty with nearly two decades of experience. Leneiva’s specialties include Residential & Commercial Leasing and Sales, HUD/VA/REO Properties, short sales, standard sales and creative financing. She always provides clients with education and guidance throughout every home buying and selling process. To learn more about Welcome Home reality, click here.
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