TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Happy Holidays. If you are working on getting your room ready for the days ahead, we are to help. The quantity is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Because it is truly the ho-ho-home progress season where you’re taking on those projects to form your mansion bright and cheery and cozy and warm, is not simply for you but for all of your friends and family.
Coming up on today’s present , now that it is getting so close to the holidays, do you have a couple of last-minute projects to get done but no time to do them? Well, if so, hiring a handyman is a great option. But how do you find one, you know, kind of at the last minute that can complete the project on time and on budget? We are going to walk you through that process, because it’s actually not as hard as you might think.
LESLIE: And likewise onward, we’re going to solve a mystery put to us by a listener who had no electricity in his garage and three electricians couldn’t tell him why. And the answer "il go to" surprise you.
TOM: And the Farmers’ Almanac has been predicting winter forecast with an 80.5 accuracy frequency since 1792 which is amazing, by the way. And they are calling for frequent blizzard phenomena, from spurts to no fewer than seven large-hearted snowstorms from coast to coast.
LESLIE: Oh, geez.
TOM: So, if you’re tired of shoveling, a blizzard blower might be in your immediate future. It can do it for you but they’re not one size fits all. So we’re proceeding is to say how to choose the perfect one for your house.
LESLIE: And now that it’s cold outside, are you thinking about when that warm weather is coming back? We’ve got a great product from QUIKRETE to give away, this hour, that can help. It’s a laid of their very popular Walkmaker Forms. And it’s the easiest way to build a beautiful cobblestone walkway.
TOM: So, let’s got to get it. Whatever is on your to-do list, slide it over to ours, right now, by name us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Larry in Missouri is having a plumbing issue. Tell us what’s going on.
LARRY: Yes, I have a well on my dimension now that fills the spray for our mansion. And in the last couple of months, we’ve had what I think is an unusual thing happening. The couplings on the 1-inch tube- the PVC pipes that are coming from the well- so far, 3 of them have smashed and maybe split- the couplings have divided almost right in half. And so I’ve had to dig out this PVC pipe from in the anchor, because it’s all underground.
LARRY: And just wondering, what "couldve been" stimulating those couplings to be splitting like that?
TOM: OK. The couplings that you’re using- what’s the dimensions of the PVC pipe? Is it an inch-and-a-half or what is it?
LARRY: One-inch PVC pipe.
TOM: And so, mostly, the coupling is where you have two sections that working in partnership. Is that remedy?
TOM: So what you might want to "ve been thinking about" doing is replacing these glued- they’re glued-on couplings. Is that title?
LARRY: Yes, they are.
TOM: What you might want to think about doing is supplanting these glued-on, hard-bitten, plastic pipelings( ph) with something called a Fernco. Are you very well known that?
TOM: It’s more of like a rubber boot and they have different types for different pipes. But it attaches importance to both sides of the tube and it has a little bit of flexible in between it. And this way, if you’re getting expansion and contraction in the tube, it’s going to move with it and put less stress on the joint.
LARRY: Mm-hmm. Now, the ones that I have totally replaced- I have replaced three of them even further and I would predict there’s probably five other, probably, to the well. What I’ve done- there is this one- it’s got a rubber seal on it but then they bolt together. I don’t know exactly what they’re called but ...
TOM: It’s called a Fernco- F-e-r-n-c-o. Their website is Fernco.com. And they’re sell off plumbing furnish houses; I know they sell them at The Home Depot. You should have no problem finding this.
This might be what you’re using, based on how you describe it; I’m not quite sure. But this is a good solution when you’re having this question with the couplings that you’re using bursting down because, as you’ll see, this will give you a lot of opennes. I’ve been using these in the floor for pipes for many years and I’ve never had one miscarry on me yet.
LARRY: OK. Well, very good. I will look into that and see if I knows where to find them around here. And if another one breaks, I will try it out.
TOM: Give it a shot. Thanks so much for request us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now, Libby from Missouri is on the line and has some issues with a hardwood floor. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
LIBBY: I actually guess my hardwood flooring need to be redone. They’re extremely faded where there’s traffic and a great deal of gap.
LIBBY: And that mansion is about 60 years old. It’s very loud. Quantities of time wear and scrapings. And I’m trying to determining whether I should just not try to redo them and- or maybe there’s something that I can do to them to determine them examine better without totally refinishing them. I don’t know. You have any suggestions?
TOM: Well, sure, Libby. Let me query you about the condition of the floors. You said that they’re scratched but are the scrapings merely in the finish or are they sort of deep scrapings in the timber boards themselves?
LIBBY: No, they’re not deep scratches. Just from like- time daily wear, chiefly. They’re in really good shape. One office that’s not exerted very much is in I mean excellent- it examines approximately brand new. But the other, there’s- it’s simply ordinary, daily kind of wear.
TOM: Alright. So here’s what you can do, Libby. You don’t have to belt-sand the floorings, which is the way- when you totally refinish them, you take all the old-fashioned finish off and you grind down an 1/8 -inch of information. You don’t have to do that. What you can do is you is able to gently sand the upper surface of the finish and then articulated another blanket or two of urethane over that.
The best nature to do that is with a floor buffer and a sanding screen. Now, you can go to a tool-rental place and you can rent a flooring buffer and then you can purchase sanding screens, which are these screens that are about 18 inches in diameter. Appears various kinds of like window-screen material but it’s abrasive.
And there’s two sides to it, so you can use one side, fling it over, then use the other side. And you outlook it underneath the flooring buffer and as you use the buffer in the apartment, it lightly abrades the surface of the old-fashioned flooring. That takes out the dirt and the grunge. It takes off some of the old-fashioned- any age-old wax, that kind of stuff. And it’ll start to take out the scratches and that kind of evens it out and cleanses it up. Then you vacuum it or damp-mop all that dust up. And then you can apply two seams of urethane.
Now, I’ll give you a gimmick of the trade. The first bed should be a high gloss, because the glossy urethane is harder than satin. So applied the first seam of high-pitched gloss and maybe even a few seconds layer of high-pitched gloss but your last mantle could be satin. And that will give you a neat, even, soft finish and still be as hard-boiled as possible.
LIBBY: Oh, OK. I will see if I can get someone to help me with that.
TOM: Alright. Well, good fortune with that assignment. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show and Podcast. It’s is accessible on your regional radio depot, as well as your favorite major podcast app.
Up next, are you trying to get your home in tip-top influence before the hosts of visitors show up? Well, hiring a handyman to help with those minor fix-ups can really take a lot off your sheet. We’re going to share gratuities on how you can do just that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Look around your room right now. We know if you do one little twisting, you’re going to see something that’s got to get done but perhaps you don’t know how to do it. Well, pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fastest and most easy method to find the right pro for any kind of home job, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Well, now that the calendar various kinds of officially says winter, are you finding that your knowledge is really thinking about spring? It happens. We like the channel you think, guys, because we’re all looking forward to the warmer weather. Well, if you call now with your home better question, we’ve got a great giveaway for those working warmer eras that, I predict, are ahead.
We’ve got the QUIKRETE Walkmaker Form. Now, it’s an easy and economical method that you can add a beautiful, durable concrete walkway or even a porch to your dwelling. It’s definitely a do-it-yourself project that anybody can direct. You’ve just got to pour a mixed QUIKRETE Crack-Resistant Concrete into this Walkmaker Form, smooth it with a trowel and then remove the form when the concrete is thumbprint-hard. Maintenance doing this until you have enough sections to even out that walkway or the patio. So it’s truly a great DIY project. It comes out fantastically.
You can check it out all online at QUIKRETE.com. And you can get it in a knot of different patterns: country stone, basket weave, brick alliance, European. Check it out, again: QUIKRETE.com. But recollect, give us a call for your chance to win.
TOM: The crowd is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Carol in Texas is working on a decorate projection. How can we lend a hand?
CAROL: We are drawing our bathroom lockers. They are- they were put in the bathroom in 1980-something. I’m not absolutely convinced the year. We bought this house- the person or persons lived in it 28 times and we’ve been here almost 9 years. And they’re kind of a maple color and they’re not very attractive. I’ve applied that Orange Glo on them trying to perform them examine better. I don’t know what they used on them. Probably Liquid Gold or something trying to bring out the sheen.
But it’s just approximately beyond the part. And I’d like to have new closets but where reference is do, we’re probably going to have to redo the whole bathroom, we are therefore decided we are to be able paint them various kinds of an off-white color.
What we want to know is: what’s the approaching to attaining that make-up stay on?
LESLIE: Now, you said that the cabinets are a maple color. Are they actually wood and they’re stained?
CAROL: Yeah, that’s the stain on them. They’re stained.
LESLIE: So they’re discoloured wood. It’s not like a Thermofoil that looks like wood or a laminate? It’s wood.
CAROL: No, it’s real timber. They’re real grove cabinets.
LESLIE: Now, if they’ve been stained and restained over the course of a couple of years and you’ve got a lot of finishings of a cleaner on there, your best bet "couldve been"- and this is how I would kind of attack it. I would remove the doors and the drawer breasts, being very careful about labeling which becomes where, you know? A little fragment of painters tape on the back side and a little piece on the hinge saying, “-AA, ” or “1- 1, ” just so you know exactly where things go back.
And I would leave the hinges either on the door or on the box. It’s kind of easier to left open on the box, just for painting editions. And this way, you know exactly where anything goes back; that time kind of remembers things tidy.
And then, you really need to get some of that gleam off. So you could do it a got a couple of different ways. You could use something that’s like a liquid sandpaper that you clean on that comes rid of some of that sheen. But if it’s a super-high gloss and they’ve been oiled or polished over its first year and they’re unusually sort of gunked up, virtually, with a great deal of finish on them, you may want to sand them down a little bit. Because you need to get down to something that’s a little bit not so silky and so built up from years of cleaning and only the yuck that happens in the shower, just so that you’ve got a surface that the paint’s was just going to stick to.
And formerly you’ve done that to the doors or drawer fronts and the boxes themselves in the bathroom, you need to prime it very well with a high-quality primer. I would use KILZ or Zinsser- one of those that’ll stick extremely, very well- cause that baked very thoroughly and then go ahead with your topcoat decorate. And because it’s in a bathroom and because it’s a high-moisture area and it’s something that you’re going to want to be clean a good deal, I would go with a silky finish and an lubricant basi if I can get my hands on one. If not, a glossy latex will do the trick but more sturdy, of course, would be the oil base.
CAROL: Thank you and I relish your help.
TOM: Carol, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, now that it’s getting super close to the holidays, do you have a couple of last-minute projects to get done but no time to do them? Hiring a handyman really is a great option. But how do you go about finding one that can get the project done well, on time, on budget? We’ve got some tips to help you do only that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
Now, first of all, you’ve got to understand that a handyman service is very different than a contractor. Now, these laborers often make different approaches to initial consultations and costs. But employing a handyman can really be super affordable. In fact, HomeAdvisor reports that most homeowners tend to pay between $177 and $647 for a completed programme. So it’s a great alternative for those working jobs that don’t call for any major remodeling but you still need to get them done and you don’t feel pleasant make them yourself.
TOM: Now, it’s important, though, that you understand how you’re being charged for a handyman’s business, because it’s not all the same. You could be charged located on an hourly frequency or a flat pace, depending on the project. And deciding which depends on the known and likewise the unknown factors of a job.
So, for example, if the contractor is hired to hang a ceiling daybreak, it’s a reasonably simple task. The median handyman is going to know how long it’ll take to time that and what tools are going to be needed. But if the number of jobs involves repairing drywall after a sea divulge , not so much. It’s not straightforward. You don’t know what you’re going to find when you get that ceiling rip out. So in that case, it might be hourly.
Now, for small jobs, pros could also charge you a minimum frequency. And that’s fair because they do have the time and expense of getting to and from your residence, even if a chore only makes 10 instants to complete. But whichever way you go, it’s very important to agree on toll ahead of time. As long as you can provide sufficient more detailed information on the number of jobs, a handyman should be able to give you a pretty firm quote, in writing, before starting any project.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And here are a couple plans that can help you remain those costs down, as well. You should try and clear the furniture and any other obstacles that are around the area where the project’s is happening, because this manufactures the handyman’s responsibility easier. And if you’re paying hourly, it reduces the number of time that’s actually invested at the number of jobs and not prepping to do the job.
Now, if you’ve got a bunch of small projects, incorporate them into one work bellow. Perhap you’re replacing a medicine board, reforming a doorknob on an interior doorway or specifying a drippy faucet. You can save more coin by hiring that handyman to take care of all of them in one day instead of paying for three separate visits.
And remember, supermarket around. Because three repeats? That’s frequently ample. You’ll get a good doctrine. But retain, merely because something is the lowest toll doesn’t mean it’s always the best deal. You might end up compensating more in the long run for something that might need to be redone or take longer to happen.
And also, bear in mind some agencies offer deductions for elderlies, ex-servicemen, the disabled. Whatever it is, they’re going to list this in their ads and it was possible to a major selling moment for their services. So keep an eye out for these things and make your time and find the right person.
TOM: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your neighborhood and compare prices, read checked reviews and book appointments online, all free of charge. No question the type of job, HomeAdvisor obligates it fast and easy to hire very best local pros.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve got John in Missouri on the line with a garage question. Tell us what’s going on.
JOHN: This sewage has caused the one part of the garage slab to drop.
JOHN: And we known to when we bought the house. It’s gotten a little worse every year. And I guess my big question is: what are my options as far as repairing it? And then, what I’ve- various kinds of look into- I haven’t gone anybody out to look at it and give me estimates yet. Is mudjacking and curing( ph) it as opposed to time not doing anything- and then when it’s too bad, just rending out the concrete and repouring another slab. So I guess that’s the question that I have.
TOM: The point that you had all these contractors "ve been coming" and look at the slab and look at the house and apply you a entire wide range of topics of solutions is typical. When you call somebody that’s in the concrete-repair business, they’re going to come out and recommend a concrete fixing. So you were very smart to call in the independent, professional home inspector and therein got the correct advice- was simply fix the sewage and everything else will take care of itself.
JOHN: The best 500 horses I ever are used in my life.
TOM: Exactly. So now that you fixed the sewage, you’ve got this slab that’s agreed down and you’re wondering, “What do I do with it? ” I has not been able to recommend, with a garage slab, is everything as expensive as mudjacking or anything of that nature. The expense of that procedure is not worth just trying to save the slab. That slab will break up very, very easily- astonishingly easily- with a jackhammer or even a sledgehammer, frankly.
And you would tear that out, relevel the flooring, compress it, compress it properly and pour a new slab. So that’s "the worlds largest" cost-effective and permanent, long-term solution. Everything else would- I foresee would be a waste of coin and very speculative.
JOHN: Thank you. I relish that. Like I said, I haven’t had anybody come out and actually look at it more. It’s various kinds of one of those ankle-biter kind of things that ...
TOM: Well, here’s what’s going to happen, John. If you have somebody that’s in the mudjacking business come out there, they’re going to say, “Hey, you need mudjacking, ” OK? If you have a mason come out there and he tells you to tear it out and introduced a brand-new one in, I’d is in agreement with that. I think that’s the best thing to do.
John, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Give us a call anytime with your home fixing or your residence increase question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. This time of year with the holidays, I never sleep. I’m typically wrapping something or painting, so one of us will certainly be answer the phone.
Up next, have you ever had something go wrong in your home that even the pros can’t figure out? We’re going to tell you about a number of problems we solved for a listener in seconds that three electricians had missed, next.
TOM: Making good residences better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a announce, right now, with your how-to question, your DIY dilemma at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
Hey, do you need brand-new flooring in your kitchen or bathtub? HomeAdvisor will instant join you with the title pro for the job for free.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’re chief over to Georgia where Robin is dealing with a hall question. What’s going on with the cement?
ROBIN: The back of the plaster porch, where it convenes the house, has descend down from the brick about an inch and maybe as much as 2 inches in some plazas. And then, up the wall, the brick has also get orders in it, in some locates, that have put down, as well. And "youre seeing" where the brick has declined down under the windows.
TOM: OK. So what’s happening here is settlement and it’s happened gradually, probably over a number of years. And commonly, what happening on porches is - you are aware, you frame the outside kind of groundwork wall of the foyer and then you pour the concrete last-place. And sometimes, when they backfill the hall, it doesn’t compress properly or sometimes you get organic debris in there, like tree stumps and that sort of thing. And then they, of course, rot apart, you get voids and then the porch drops.
So the question is: can you patch something that has dropped 2 inches? And my answer is no. It’s too much to patch. So, "youve been" have two picks. You can temporarily shut those divergences. The only purpose in doing this is to stop some of the liquid that might collect from rainfall of running in there and constituting the matter worse. But it really is a particularly temporary fix.
The proper thing to do would be to have that concrete storey lacerated out. Once it’s torn out, you’ll be able to work on the brick wall that’s sagging underneath. The bricks would probably be sitting on top of a step of a foundation. I don’t know why they’re dropping but you need to investigate that, rebuild the bricks up under the window and then pour a brand-new material flooring on properly tamped, properly pact base.
That’s really all you are able to do at this place because you can’t spot something - you can’t articulated a bed on it of additional concrete to kind of fill that in. It simply won’t stay. It won’t look right. OK, Robin?
ROBIN: OK. Well, thank you for coming in. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re accept, Robin. Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, have you ever had something go wrong in your residence that you find even the pros merely can’t figure out what’s happening? It is also available jolly baffling and is also able to pretty expensive. Well, we’re going to tell you about a problem that Tom solved for a listener in seconds that three electricians had missed.
So, Tom, what exactly happened?
TOM: So, Larry wrote me about his garage. And the story was "hes had" five outlets that were dead, including the one his freezer was on, which I’m guessing led to a bunch of spoiled food. The circuit breakers, though, they were all on; nothing of them had junketed. And there were no GFCIs detected. There were no ground glitches found. And three electricians were called and not a single one could figure it out. So it was quite a perplexing problem for Larry.
Now, having heard this and having sort of been down these arteries for many years- and specifically, this one before- I knew that there had to be a GFCI. Now, what that expressed support for is ground-fault circuit interrupter. And you guys might recognize this as the shop that has the little measure and reset button it.
And basically, what it does is if there’s something plugged into this that has a short in it- which is a diversion of current to a soil source, which could be you going a sicken- it will instantly put off before anybody gets hurt. And when homes are built, one of the points that developers will do is they’ll put a ground fracture in one of the channels and then have it dominance all the outlets that sort of are following that.
And I knew something precisely had to be one now. So I said to Larry, “Look, there’s have to go to be- it’s got to be there. I want you to look is not simply in the garage but I crave you to look in your basement, your kitchen, your bathroom and outside. Basically, every target that there’s a sodden orientation, you could have a ground fault. And who knows where this developer introduced it? ”
So, he did and literally, like a marry hours later, he wrote me and said, “I met it.” Where’d he find it? In the garage but not on the wall. He encountered it behind a garage-wall board. So person actually had clothed the channel- the ground-fault store- with a cabinet.
LESLIE: That’s so crazy.
TOM: Well, one of the things I mentioned to him is there has to be an outlet on every wall. And when he saw a wall that didn’t have an outlet, he said, “Ha. I wonder.” And sure enough, it was behind the wall cabinet.
Now, the other part of this story, which is interesting, is not only did I facilitate him find it, I told him why- how it junketed in the first place. Because you remember when I told you where reference is described the situation, he said he has a freezer? Well, you are able to never, ever made a refrigerator or a freezer on a ground-fault circuit. Because when the compressors knock on and off, they pull so much capability that they kind of fake-out the dirt flaw and the ground demerit thinks that somebody’s going a stun and it turns off the circuit.
So, now, Larry is very happy. Of route, he’s got to now find, I approximate, a home to store whatever was in that cabinet. But this cabinet’s down, the electrical circuit is restored and he is ready to run a new channel just for that freezer.
But sometimes, that’s how it goes. But I told Larry, “Well, the good news is you got it straightened out. And you too knew the three electricians you will never, ever hire for development projects at your house.” Because those chaps should have figured this out.
LESLIE: You reached among us anytime, 24/7, right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT with your residence amend or your dwelling better question.
Well, according to that Farmers’ Almanac, you should be expecting no fewer than seven large-scale snowstorms from coast to coast this wintertime. That is terrible news, especially if you’re tired of shoveling. You know what? Now would be a great time to invest in a blizzard blower. It seems like we’re going to be using them a lot. We’re going to share some tip-off to choose the best one for your work, next.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone, summon us, right now, with your home progress question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a position. Only use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project. It’s all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: But first, pick up the phone and render us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. We’d have liked to help you out. We’d love to give some medals, as well, this hour. And we’ve went one, specially if you’re the type of person that though the calendar says winter and it might be snowing outside, you’ve already got your mind on some summer assignments. You’re thinking like, “Hmm, maybe if I get a project meant for the outpouring, the climate will get now faster.” So here’s your chance.
We’ve got, up for grabs, the QUIKRETE Walkmaker Form. Now, it’s mostly a model that you set some mixed QUIKRETE into. And once it’s thickened, you can just pop it out of the form, keep manufacturing them over and over and over again until you’ve got enough to create a walkway or a patio.
It’s a super-great do-it-yourself project. The blueprints are country stone, basket weave, feeing brick bail, European. Check them all out at QUIKRETE.com. You can be found in out how it drives. But remember, brain on over to MoneyPit.com, ask your question, announcement us with your question for your chance to win.
TOM: The QUIKRETE Walkmaker is going out to one listener drawn at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, with your question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: We’re going to Mike in Michigan who’s got some concerns about operating in the jug temps.
MIKE: I examine a rumor that there’s sealant that can be applied in much colder temperatures. But upon my research, I haven’t attained any firm that sells it or has only one knowledge of it.
TOM: You speaking about caulk?
MIKE: Yeah. To shut braces and cracks.
TOM: Well, generally, the solvent-based caulks can be used in a great deal lower temperatures than the latex-based caulks. Are you utilizing silicone caulks?
MIKE: No, we’re also exploiting polyurethane.
TOM: You might want to look at the silicone products. Now, this is nothing special; it’s not a new type of product. But I know that some painters use these down to 0 degrees.
Now, the trick is keeping it warm enough to apply it this is why it flows well. But if you can keep the caulking tube warm and then go outside and use it, the employment should be OK down to nearly 0 severities, as I recall.
MIKE: OK. And the freeze/ thaw round, I know, is water turns to frost, it expands. That will not expand the sealant being soak?
TOM: No. Because it’s solvent-based. You don’t have the same expansion issues.
MIKE: OK. And how well does that degree out? Do you have to more or less putty it in and smooth it out yourself?
TOM: It is more difficult to level out because of the cold temperature. As you know, if you’ve ever employed this sort of thing on warm day, it flows really nicely. But because it’s chilly, it emphatically doesn’t flow as well. But if you’re skilled with the caulk gun, you should be fine with it. And cleanup is a little bit more difficult, as well. But again, it comes down to your talent and I’m sure if you’re doing it all these years that you’d be enabled to overcome that issue.
MIKE: Yes, yes. We’re just looking- when we heard about it, we figured, well, if we can get another month or two out of the season of doing sealing, we can acquire more money every year by doing so.
LESLIE: There’s too a concoction out there called a “caulk warmer.” And it looks like a- kind of like an insulated lunchbox but it’s more like an envelope-style. And you can hold two to five tubings, depending on which size you get. And that can help you keep the caulk at a flowable temperature while you’re getting ready to work.
MIKE: Oh, OK. I acknowledge all your help and assistance. You folks have a great day.
TOM: Alright. Good fortune with that projection. Thanks so much better for holler us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, since 1792, the Farmers’ Almanac has been predicting weather with, get this, an superb 80 -percent accuracy rate. And they say we should expect no fewer than seven major snowstorms, you are aware. No big deal.
TOM: Yuck. Well, if that’s got you motivated to start thinking about buying a snow blower or if you’re like me and your snow-shoveling boys are away at college, here’s a few things to know that will help you find the one that’s going to work best for you.
And by the way, if you’re listening to this, right now, from the coast of Hawaii or Miami, you time obliterate that little grin off your face and think about how luck you are for a second while we help the rest of America, who’s truly chill right now.
LESLIE: Yeah, yeah, yeah. And we’re all coming to visit you in Hawaii. We know where you live. We’re coming.
But guess what, guys? There’s actually two types of snow-clearing machines: a snow blower and a snowfall thrower. And they’re two different things.
Now, a single-stage machine is called a “thrower,” because that’s what it does. It picks up the blizzard and then transports it out the parachute in one motion or theatre. Now, two-stage machines are announced “snow blowers, ” because it moves the snowfall twice. First, a metal auger is going to scoop up the blizzard and frost and then a high-speed impeller is going to throw it out through granting discharge tube.
Now, the auger on these bigger machines, it doesn’t touch the foot. It’s better for if you’ve got a gravel or concrete skin-deep. Plus, they boast taller buckets that are capable of inhaling bigger snowdrifts. So you’ve got to really "ve been thinking about" the type of face and the amount of snow.
TOM: So if you’re trying to decide between the options, you want to think about the area that you have to clear, the quantity of snow "youre trying to" get in that surface. The single-stage snow throwers are typically about 19 to 22 inches wide but the thicknes isn’t as important as the high levels of these machines.
Also, you don’t want to use a single-stage snow thrower on a gravel surface. And if you’re frequently duelling those 12 -inch blizzard moves or it is required to clear large, depth areas of snow, then maybe you might go for the bigger, two-stage snow blower.
LESLIE: Now, most blizzard blowers are going to run on gas but there are electric accounts of single-stage snow throwers accessible, which is great if you’ve went small-minded areas like a deck or paces where a gas-powered machine only isn’t going to fit.
And also, safety is super important when you’re using a snow blower. You’ve went really powerful blades that move at very high speeds. Now, the safety check starts before that first flake fails. Now, before it does snow, you’ve have to go to clear the driveway of all downed divisions, toys, newspapers, any other debris that could be a hazard.
And you was intended to made to ensure that you know the locating of all the landscape light-footed fixtures that are slotted along the edge of the driveway, because you don’t want to run them over with that snowfall blower. And never, never, never clear a choked impeller or auger with your hand. You’ve got to turn off the engine and then use a wooden stick to dislodge whatever is clogging it.
TOM: Yeah. Very important because the machine can move, even when it’s off, as soon as that poke object is removed. Sometimes, there’s built-up pressure and it will really move forward and can be very dangerous. So make sure you’re unusually, very careful when you’re clearing those clogs.
LESLIE: 888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and volume appointments online for free.
And coming up, if you’re feeling a shivering from all this wintertime brave, perhaps it’s time to install a whirlwind doorway. They can be tremendously helpful, so we’re travelling to share some tips-off if you’re considering one for your coin pit.
TOM: Where dwelling solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Call us, right now, with your dwelling better question at 888 -MONEY-PIT or post your question at MoneyPit.com, just like Rich did.
LESLIE: That’s freedom. Rich writes: “I recently set a brand-new fiberglass introduction opening that looks great. We’ve considered installing a storm door outside for additional protection and so we can have full-view glass door during the warmer months. I’ve heard, though, that I need to vent the door so it doesn’t warp or ruin our entry entrance. If so, how do I do this or should I merely hop-skip the tornado entrance altogether?”
TOM: It’s interesting that you think that you would have to vent a gale opening, right? Because isn’t the idea of a blizzard door to stop the drafts? So why would you need to vent the tornado entrance?
LESLIE: Create one.
TOM: Right. But there is some truth to all of this. Now, it doesn’t certainly have to do with the fiberglass doorways. But when you have a metal door, typically you have, for example, this- a trim around the window, like a vinyl balance around the window. And when you threw a rain opening over that, you get kind of this greenhouse effect where the door will overheat. That opening in front of the door will overheat. In fact, sometimes it gets so hot that when you try to grab the handle from the inside, it feels like you’re going to burn your hand.
Now, the thing is, though, with fiberglass entrances, you don’t need a cyclone door. It’s good enough as it is. Fiberglass openings are far more shielded than metal entrances or wooden doors. So you can skip the squall doorway for that reason.
Now, you did mention in the summer, certainly you could employed a screen door on this for breathing. In fact, I have a fiberglass door on our office entrance. And it’s a beautiful opening. It looks just like wood, because it has that sort of an impression, that sort of style and scheme to it. But we lay in a sort of hideaway screen door so that it kind of clicks back into a roll on the side.
LESLIE: Oh, that’s smart.
TOM: So we don’t even have to have the actual made of the door. It just sort of pulls out and it requires a neat ventilation.
But you do not need a blizzard door with fiberglass. And if you do have one, you are able very well decrease the life of the finish on that fiberglass, just because of all the added showing and hot that’s was just going to log into that.
LESLIE: Alright. Good point.
Next up, we’ve got a pole here from Josh in Michigan. Now, Josh writes: “In my bathroom, I’ve been having some problems with what looks like drips on the wall. The drips are sometimes a yellowish shade and more see after the shower. Is this a venting trouble? ”
TOM: Well, probably. I means you is a lot of humidity in this space because it’s not vented well enough. You are going to get the water running against the walls or condensing against the walls. It will pick up the mineral deposits "thats been" there from showers of long ago, which could be yesterday or the month before. And it will dehydrate with those salts and establish those kind of colorful drips.
This thing is, though, if you deal with the environment, which is the high-humid environment that you are, that’s not going to be as much of a problem. You’ll also find that it’s not going to be moldy, right? It’s just going to be a lot more pleasant of a space.
So, what I would recommend that you do, in this case, is oust or add, if you don’t have it, a bathroom-vent fan. But not only any fan. You want to made to ensure that the switching on it has a humidistat. Because if it runs on a humidistat, even when you leave the bathroom after the shower is done, the love will can run until the moisture’s gone. Because most of us will exactly put off that fan when we leave the bathroom. But that’s kind of counterproductive, because the humidity is still there.
LESLIE: Yeah. You do really have to run that show supporter after the shower. You know, so many times my kids will precisely bust out of the lavatory and you can see the steam kind of "ve been coming" when you are. It certainly sticks around. So you want to make sure you run it well after to get all of that steam and sweat out of the bathroom, really to keep things in tip-top shape in there.
Plus, you want to really make sure that the expres supporter is vented outside. You don’t want to leant all that moist air into the attic because it then aims up spawning your insularity less effective. And that movements a whole knot of other problems.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Thank you so much for expend this part of your vacation- and yes, I call it a “holiday, ” because we’re getting closer together every weekend may seem like the vacation now- with us. If you’ve got questions that we can help you with when it comes to taking on your residence chores, your programmes, contribute us a bawl, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or berth your question at MoneyPit.com.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No component of this transcript or audio register may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Make, Inc .)
The post How to Hire a Handyman | Electrical Mystery Solved | Tips to Buy Snow Blowers seemed first on The Money Pit.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here to help you with your home improvement projects. We’re here to educate, to help you get confidence in taking these projects on. If you need a coach, we’re sort of your home improvement coach. Whether you’re a do-it-yourselfer or someone who wants to hire out the job, we are here to guide you, give you tips, advice, confidence, inspiration to avoid the perspiration when you take on those projects around your house. Now, your job is to help yourself first by picking up the phone or reaching out to us on our Community page at MoneyPit.com or calling 1-888-MONEY-PIT with your home improvement question.
Coming up on today’s show, if you’ve been thinking about a remodeling project and wondering what to do with your ceiling, I will bet there’s one ceiling that you are definitely not considering: a drop ceiling, right?
LESLIE: Oh, yeah. For sure. I get it. They look old, they’re dated. Well, you might want to give drop ceilings a second look because those that are coming out today can be absolutely stunning. In fact, it’s even hard to tell that they are drop ceilings. We’re going to share some details on that, in just a bit.
TOM: Plus, do you spend more time picking out paint for a project than you do actually picking out the paintbrush you’ll use? We’re going to share tips on how to choose a brush that won’t leave marks, waste paint or have bristles that break off and get stuck in the wet paint. I hate when that happens.
LESLIE: That’s really the worst. That’s like you get a whole project done and then you’re picking at the one loose bristle.
LESLIE: Alright. It’s time for fireplace season again. And if you are lighting your fireplace for the first time, it might make you feel a little nervous and that’s for good reason. You know, dirty chimneys can send your relaxation up in smoke. We’re going to tell you how to make sure that your fireplace is ready to fire up for the season ahead.
TOM: Plus, we’ve got a great giveaway this hour. We’ve got a product that Leslie had – both protects your home and entertains you both at the same time.
LESLIE: Ah, those are two pretty good things.
TOM: It will protect you at the same time; we just hope it doesn’t alarm you at the same time. Because we’re talking about the Onelink Safe & Sound by First Alert. It’s a detector that will notify you, on your cell phone, in the event of a smoke or carbon-monoxide emergency. Plus, it’s got a premium speaker that plays music. It even answers voice commands because it’s got built-in Alexa. Really interesting combination of smart-home technology.
We’ve got one to give away from First Alert worth almost 250 bucks. Going out to one caller drawn at random. Does that sound like a great prize? Well, help yourself first: pick up the phone, call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. We will toss your name in The Money Pit hard hat and you might just be winning that great, new product from First Alert: the Onelink Safe & Sound worth almost 250 bucks.
LESLIE: Mike in Iowa is on the line with an insulation question. What can we do for you today?
MIKE: I’m looking to put some fiberglass insulation up in my attic. I have access to some 6-inch that’s faced on one side and it has foil on the other. Could I lay that down in my attic without having any problems?
TOM: You already have existing insulation there, right, Mike?
MIKE: Yeah, I’ve got 10 inches in my ceilings.
TOM: The answer is no and here’s why: the foil face is a vapor barrier and if you put a vapor barrier in there, you’re going to trap moisture. Now, a very common scenario is people put that up in the attic, they leave the vapor barrier facing up but that’s actually wrong. The only place a vapor barrier belongs is against the heated space, which would be under the 10 inches of insulation you already have there.
So, the foil face is not a good thing. Now, I will say that you – if you really want to be frugal about this, you could probably pull that foil off and lay the unfaced batt perpendicular to what you have right now. It’ll be a bit of a messy job, because it sounds like it’s older insulation, so you’re going to have to protect yourself with dust masks and safety glasses, long sleeves and all of that.
MIKE: I don’t care to do that. But right now, in my attic, at one time I had a flat roof. And right now, I’ve got rolled tar – or not tar paper but rolled shingling up in my attic floor. That’s probably acting as a vapor barrier, I would guess, today.
TOM: It probably is, yeah. Because it would stop humidity from getting through it. The problem is that it traps it in the insulation and when it does that, the insulation doesn’t work well. Insulation that’s damp does not insulate, so that humidity is working against you.
MIKE: I have wood heat and it takes a lot of moisture out of the house. That’s probably in my favor, I would guess.
TOM: I would think so. Now, you want to preserve that wood floor? You want to use all of that wood floor space?
MIKE: I’d like to use as much as possible, yes.
TOM: Well, why don’t you do this? Kind of a way to kind of have your cake and eat it, too, is to carve out an area in the center of the attic that you reserve, basically, just for storage. And then you add unfaced fiberglass batts on top of the wood floor to the other areas. Yeah, it’s not perfect having that whatever floor covering you have in between but I still think it’s going to add some insulation to that space and help cut some of your energy bills. And unfaced fiberglass batts are not that expensive and pretty easy to handle.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Natasha in Missouri is on the line with a molding question. What can we do for you today?
NATASHA: Our house is about 11 years old and the interior walls – the sheetrock or the drywall – is finished with a nice, round, bullnose corner. So it doesn’t come to a right angle, so to speak. And just through wear and tear with kids and dogs, we have found several dents appearing. And I’m wondering if you have ideas on how we might repair that or if we are going to have to just replace that whole corner edging. Any thoughts?
TOM: Yeah. I mean is this like the metal rounded corner?
NATASHA: I think it’s metal. I tap on it and it sounds plasticky but it might be metal, which would explain the dents.
TOM: Why not just plaster over those?
NATASHA: I thought about that. Some of them are just little dimples but I don’t know if I can successfully fill and sand and patch. But that’s one thought we’ve had.
TOM: Yeah. You could skim-coat it. And the other thing that you could do, if it’s a crisp dent, is you can use auto-body filler. We use that on metal doors, like metal doors that have dents in it and that sort of thing. It’s just a little harder to sand. But if it’s just the outside corner on drywall, you could use spackle for that. Build it up and then sand it. It sands really easily. You’re just going to have to prime it and repaint it.
TOM: Shouldn’t be a big deal.
NATASHA: Great. Well, that’s exciting. Some other advice I’d had was to replace the whole corner, so I love your suggestion much, much more.
TOM: Well, you can always do that but why don’t we try the easy stuff first?
NATASHA: Maybe in the bedrooms where it’s not so obvious. We’ll try that first, so …
TOM: Then you can practice and you’ll get good at it.
NATASHA: That’s right. Hey, thanks so much. I really appreciate your help.
TOM: You’re welcome, Natasha. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Call in your home repair or home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: And just ahead, do you think drop ceilings look old and dated? Well, you might want to give them a second look because those coming out today can be absolutely stunning. We’ll share the new options, after this.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we try to make good homes better. Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement project at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got Rudy in Tennessee joining us here at The Money Pit who had a leaky roof and now you’re trying to fix up all the remaining issues. Tell us what happened.
RUDY: So, we had a big rainstorm. And just got a call from my wife and I came in and looked at it and I had a bunch of water running down the seam of my drywall, into the – onto the landing inside my house. Then I called a handyman. He came and took down the drywall and wait, he noticed that it was kind of leaky. The roof was leaking and then it came in on the drywall.
I had a roofer come out, licensed. He came, he repaired the roof and also put some water guards to kind of channel the water away. And then the handy-guy put up the drywall and taped it, painted it over. And so then, probably about a month later, all that drywall – the new drywall – kind of buckled, kind of came out.
And there’s no more water. It’s rained here multiple times since then. I haven’t seen any more water come in but I didn’t know if it was moisture still in the wall or if it was just bulky drywall that the person put up.
TOM: Well, it’s not – is no such thing as bad drywall. There are bad drywall contractors but no such thing as bad drywall. And when you say buckle, is it swollen or is it sort of popped off the wall?
RUDY: It popped off the wall. Like you can push a little bit on it and you can see the exact place where the patched drywall was. You can look at the seam and it’s kind of uneven.
TOM: OK. So, if it sort of popped off the wall, then I suspect that it just wasn’t adhered properly and it might just need to be re-secured. You might need a few extra drywall screws or nails in that.
If it’s swollen and starting to look like it’s wet or damp or stained or moldy then, of course, the roof leak could be continuing. But if it’s just loose and came off the wall, then it might, in fact, be that it wasn’t attached very well and normal expansion and contraction of that area has forced it to sort of release. So I would go back to the contractor and ask if he can re-secure it and retape it, re-spackle it.
RUDY: Perfect. Thank you, guys. Enjoy listening to your show.
TOM: Well, thanks so much for calling, Rudy. We appreciate it.
LESLIE: Hey, the holidays are ahead and we want to make sure that your house is both safe and ready for entertaining. Well, we’ve got a product that can do both. We’re giving away, this hour, the very cool Onelink Safe & Sound by First Alert.
Now, this is an alarm system and sort of an entertainment system, if you could, that’s worth 250 bucks. Now, the Onelink Safe & Sound, it’s a smoke, fire and carbon-monoxide detector but it does so much more. It actually lets you play music with some built-in premium speakers and you can use simple, hands-free commands with built-in Alexa. So, she can play The Money Pit, she can help your kids with homework, she can give you all kinds of advice and guidance, even show you how to get out of the front door in an emergency.
It’s really great. It’s going to alert you on your cell phone in the event of a smoke or carbon-monoxide emergency, no matter where you are. And it also has voice-and-location technology to alert users to the type of danger and its location. I mean that’s huge. You can get ahead of things before you even know something’s happening, all when you’re in the house. This is fantastic.
Check it out at Onelink.FirstAlert.com. Again, it’s worth 250 bucks but it’s going out to one random listener.
TOM: Make that you. Pick up the phone, give us a call right now. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Linda in Ohio is on the line and needs some advice on purchasing a generator. How can we help you? By the way, great idea.
LINDA: Is it possible to use a generator when you live in an apartment?
TOM: So are you talking about what kind of generator – like a portable generator or a standby generator?
LINDA: Maybe some standby if my power goes out.
TOM: So, for an apartment, you have to understand that a standby generator or a whole-house generator is something that’s permanently installed, Linda. So the answer would be no. That said, you could use a portable generator but of course, you’d have to run wires – extension cords – from the generator itself into the house. So it’s not very convenient.
There is something called a “transfer switch” that can work for a portable generator where it’s kind of like having a mini-electrical panel inside. But again, it’s something that requires some installation. And generally, when it’s an apartment, you can’t do that. So, the only thing you could really do would be to have a portable generator: one that you took out of storage, put outside – because you can’t run it in the apartment – and then run extension cords in to try to deal with that short-term, hopefully, power outage.
LINDA: Wow. That sounds like it would be difficult.
TOM: Yeah. It’s not the best answer but it’s – see, because generators are something that are permanently installed into the building’s sort of core electrical system? And that’s why it’s real important that they be done correctly. You can’t – when you install these transfer switches inside, they have technology built into them to prevent what’s called a “backfeed,” so that electricity doesn’t go back through the wiring and can hurt a lineman, for example, that’s working on the power lines. So, you can’t really run it without the transfer switch and that has to be permanently installed. And the generator itself is a very big appliance. That said, a portable generator is much smaller.
Now, if you just want to power a couple of things, you could use a very small generator. Generac has one that’s called the iQ that’s 2,000 watts. That’s under 1,000 bucks and will power a fair number of household items: small appliances, lights, that sort of thing. But you have some options there. But again, you have to use an extension cord.
LINDA: OK. Well, thank you.
TOM: Alright, Linda. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’ve been thinking about a remodeling project and wondering what to do with your ceiling, I’ll bet there’s one ceiling that you’re probably not even thinking of considering and that is a drop ceiling.
LESLIE: They look old and dated, right? But you might want to give drop ceilings a second look because those coming out today can be absolutely stunning.
Now, there are multiple options for ceiling tiles. And as with any DIY project, it’s important to balance simplicity, cost, appearance and a lot of other factors. But today, you can find drop ceilings that look like old-fashioned tin ceilings, wood paneling and really, so much more. You know, you can get a coffered-ceiling look that would take a craftsman hours and days to create, not to mention cost hundreds and hundreds if not thousands of dollars. Plus, with the right kind of finish, it’s really hard to tell that they actually are drop ceilings.
TOM: Yeah. And with a drop ceiling, you really have countless choices for color and texture and material. But with drywall, you’re limited to what color you want to paint it. And while white’s generally a great color for smaller spaces because of the sense of openness, if you’re looking for something bold or different, you could look at some colored, textured tiles, for example, with those drop ceilings. And that could be a really cool idea.
LESLIE: Yeah. First of all, if you want to make sure that a drop ceiling is going to work for you, you’ve got to consider the available headspace. Now, it’s not just a practical consideration but an aesthetic one, as well.
Now, you really have to consider that space above the window frame to the ceiling. Keep in mind, when you install a drop ceiling you’re going to lose about 6 to 8 inches of headroom. So if you can’t sacrifice that space, that might not be an option for you. But in a lot of cases, you can. And depending on the profile of the tile you pick, it will then sort of increase or decrease that headspace even more. But a grander drop ceiling can sometimes make a space feel much, much, much larger. So you’ve got to consider your ceiling height, where that window falls into the space to the ceiling before you make that final decision. Because it will make a huge difference.
TOM: Now, one last benefit of drop ceilings is this: they do provide for easy access if any of your mechanical systems are behind them, like pipes and wiring. And that’s especially useful if you use a drop ceiling in say, for example, a finished basement. So, take a second look. I think you’ll be really surprised. And the next time I do my kitchen, I want to take a look at the ceilings that look like tin. I’ve seen these fantastic, sort of patina-paint jobs that you can do on it and it really is a gorgeous look.
LESLIE: And they’re gorgeously detailed. Then after – you have to do a great paint job on it to achieve that affect. But keep in mind there’s some great metallic paints out there. If you’re looking for just a straight copper look or a metal look to create that tin, you can very easily. Now, Tom is talking about the verdigris, which is a little bit of faux finishing in there. But done right, it’s gorgeous.
John in New York is on the line with a fungus issue. What’s going on at your money pit?
JOHN: Well, the thing is I heard about your substance – whatever treatment it was. It was called Spray & Forget. And I wondered if there was such a preparation for internal use in a house, like basement walls.
TOM: OK. So what are you seeing in your basement walls?
JOHN: Well, I think I do have some dampness in the basement and possible fungus and I thought…
TOM: And so you would like to make that go away. And when you look at these walls, does it look kind of like white and gray and crusty?
JOHN: Yeah, in some areas. And it’s just a few places.
TOM: OK. So the white, gray, crusty stuff is not a fungus. It’s not mold. It’s not mildew. It’s mineral-salt deposits. What happens when a basement gets damp, the water evaporates from the – or goes from the groundwater and gets drawn into the basement walls and then evaporates out. And it leaves its mineral-salt deposits behind. And I’ll tell you an easy way to prove that that’s exactly what’s going on here is grab some white vinegar, put a bit in a spray bottle and spray it on that gray substance. You’re going to see the salt melt away when it strikes the vinegar. And you’ll know for sure that’s exactly what it is.
The only time you’re going to want to use a mildicide, like a bleach-and-water solution in a scenario like that, is when you truly do have mold or a fungus. And that’s almost never – it almost never grows on a block wall. It always grows on something that’s more organic, like a drywall or wood, paper. The block wall, I mean it’s possible you can get mold on it because sometimes you get dust that sticks to it and the dust feeds the mold. But usually, it’s mineral-salt deposits that’s indicative of just a damp basement.
What I would also tell you to do is, after you get that cleaned up, is to look outside your house and make sure that your gutters are clean and free-flowing and those downspouts are well away from the house. I’m talking like 4 to 6 feet because that will stop a lot of that water from collecting at that foundation perimeter and pulling up into those walls. Does that make sense?
JOHN: Yes, yes. I appreciate your time, man.
TOM: You’re very welcome, John. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Just ahead, when you pick out the paint for your project, do you spend as much time picking out the paintbrush that you’re going to apply it with? Probably not. You’re probably really focused on that color and then maybe what the right sheen is.
Well, you should be paying that much attention to the brush. We’re going to tell you why, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show where home solutions live. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, fall is the perfect time of year for DIYers to take on a painting project. But too often, their focus is on picking the right paint – the color, the type – and not actually picking the right paintbrush or roller to apply it with.
TOM: Yep. That is definitely true. And the fact of the matter is if you use a lousy brush, you’re going to get a lousy result. Well, our next guest has a mission to make sure that that doesn’t happen to you. She is Erica Yacobozzi, the brand manager for Purdy Professional Painting Tools.
ERICA: Hi. Thanks for having me on the show. Appreciate it.
TOM: So, I think this is definitely a scene that we have seen play out time after time. People are spending a lot of time making that color selection and the quality selection and looking at paint chips and samples and all of that. And then the last thing they do is – “Oh, yeah, I need a paintbrush,” and they throw a sponge brush or something in the basket and expect to get a good job out of it. And that just doesn’t do the trick.
ERICA: That is correct, yeah. We do see a lot of consumers that do that, especially DIYers. But they spend a lot of time painting in the – picking the paint color and the paint they’re going to use but then they don’t invest in their application tools, so their paintbrushes or their rollers.
And Purdy, what we do is we actually have products that are really chosen by the professional painters but are just as great for the DIYers. So, we want to make sure that with our products – with our brushes and rollers – that you’re getting the perfect finish every time. Because the last thing you want to do is spend hours painting and then going back and having to redo it because the applicator didn’t give you the right result. So, with Purdy, that’s not going to happen.
TOM: Well, exactly. And I think the things that happen when you use an inferior brush or roller is you get lousy paint distribution, right? The paint runs out quick on the brush, which means you’re going back to the bucket many more times. You can’t get a sharp line like when you’re trying to cut in around corners and trim and stuff like that. You’re going to get brushstrokes or marks or the absolute worst: you get bristles that come off the brush and get stuck in your wet paint. Ugh. I hate when that happens.
TOM: And that’s why you need a good-quality brush. And you guys have been making brushes since 1925, which is pretty amazing. One of the things I found interesting about your operation is that you actually have brush makers that have been making brushes for 20 or 30 years. Is that right?
ERICA: That’s correct, yeah. Our brushes have been handcrafted in the U.S.A. – in Portland, Oregon – since 1925. And they continue to this day, so it’s a really great quality story. Made in America. And like you said, our brush makers, a lot of times they’ve been making brushes for 20 or 30 years. They really take pride in their work. They’re craftsmen, too; they want to make sure that their brushes are perfect before it even leaves our Portland facility – our Portland, Oregon facility.
LESLIE: I love that each one of your brush makers sort of signs the brush with a sticker that’s special to them. I love it. It’s like the original maker movement. It’s fantastic.
ERICA: Yeah, they’re like artists, like mini-artists that actually – they’re so proud they’re putting their signature on every brush and – because they’re proud of it, which is really exciting. And we actually have some pro painters that actually find brushes that are made by certain brush makers, because they have an affinity towards that brush maker. So, kind of …
TOM: Oh, that’s interesting.
LESLIE: Oh, how funny.
ERICA: Isn’t that funny?
TOM: We’re talking to Erica Yacobozzi. She’s the brand manager for Purdy Professional Painting Tools.
Now, Erica, aside from brushes, Purdy makes pretty much every other painting tool that you might need. I want to ask you about rollers. Now, that is something that I have seen many times over the years. You know, you think you’re buying a good roller but at some point – and usually when you’re not too far into the process, the roller sort of breaks down and you start to get those roller marks that are left as you pass over the wall. Why does that happen and what are the differences in the way the roller is made that will stop it from happening with a Purdy product?
ERICA: Yeah, that’s a great question. We hear that complaint a lot, especially for DIYers. Once again, they’re purchasing the paint, they’re not thinking about the roller. They’re grabbing one of those really cheap rollers and not thinking, “Oh, if I actually get – spend a little bit more, you get a quality product from Purdy, I’m not going to have those problems.”
What’s happening is actually the fabric is breaking down and matting, because the quality of the fabric that’s actually on a roller cover isn’t durable and it’s not lasting. But with Purdy, you’re going to keep dipping that roller in the paint and kind of putting it up to different conditions. And it’s going to withstand that, so you’re not going to get those marks in your wall. You’re not going to get the lint on your wall, which is kind of like that whole getting bristles stuck in your paint. You’re not going to get the lint stuck in your paint that you’re going to have to go in and pick out afterwards.
So, our fabric is really great fabric. We have cores that are made out of plastic. They’re not cardboard, where other brands have cardboard cores that are in the roller cover that break down after it gets soggy with paint. We really want to make sure our products are durable, stand up to really every painting condition.
TOM: And speaking of durable, I read a story once where you actually have pros that are handing their brushes down to their kids. And that’s how long these brushes can last when they’re properly cared for.
ERICA: Yep. Yeah, yeah. That’s the key. You do have to properly care for it. Because if you don’t take the time to clean it afterwards, you’re probably not going to be able to pass it down. But for those that do take care of it, it is something that lasts a really long time.
TOM: Alright. I’ve got to ask you this. So, what is the proper way to clean a paintbrush? Let’s say it’s latex paint. What’s the proper way? Hot water? Cold water? I mean how do you do it?
ERICA: Sure. As long as you have a sink or some sort of water, room temperature. You don’t want it to be too hot or too cold. And you really want to make sure that you’re not using something hard, like a wire brush. Because some people that are cleaning out with a wire brush, well, that’s going to cause some bristles to fall out because you’re actually trying to pull out the bristles.
Yeah, you just take your hands with water and just ensure that – you just really have to take the time to make sure the water runs out 100 percent.
ERICA: So, really, that’s it. It’s just the time.
TOM: I imagine a good-quality brush is actually easier to clean. Sometimes, if you don’t have a good brush, the paint does get stuck deep in the bristles. But if it’s a good brush, it probably cleans better, as well.
ERICA: Yes. You are correct. Yep. Definitely.
TOM: Well, it’s good information. It’s a great product. And we’re making like these are super expensive; they’re really not. You can get a three-pack of Purdy brushes starting at around 20 bucks. So, definitely need to consider the Purdy products when you’re in the store. Their XL line is great for DIYers because it can really handle any type of paint.
Erica Yacobozzi, the brand manager for Purdy Professional Paint Tools, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
ERICA: Thank you, guys.
TOM: And you can review the entire line at Purdy.com – P-u-r-d-y.com.
LESLIE: Hey, everybody. Are you looking forward to that first crackling fire? Well, hold that match until you’re sure that your fireplace and chimney are safe and secure. We’ll tell you what to look for, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone and give us a call, right now, with your home improvement question at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They really have the best local pros for any home service.
LESLIE: That’s right. Doesn’t matter what the project is, they make it fast and easy to find top-rated pros.
TOM: And there are no membership fees. It’s 100-percent free to us. HomeAdvisor.com.
Well, whether or not you’ve used your fireplace yet this season, don’t light another match just yet. Fireplaces and chimneys do have a big job to do. And making sure they’re up for it is really key to your family’s safety.
LESLIE: Yeah. Seasonal chimney maintenance is going to ensure that the smoke, fire, ember, ashes are all going to stay contained in that fireplace and in the chimney. Now, they’re also going to check for creosote. And that’s a highly combustible buildup that can lead to chimney fires.
Now, your chimney has got to be checked for creosote at least once a year or maybe after about 80 fires. You can head on over to HomeAdvisor.com and find a certified chimney sweep with good reviews right there.
TOM: Now, even a safe fireplace can also use some backup, so you want to make sure that you put a non-flammable rug in front of the fireplace to keep all those loose sparks from damaging your floors or worse. And if your wood is not dry enough, you’ll get more sparks. Because what happens is the moisture in the wood sort of boils, right? And those little gas pockets pop and that’s what sends those sparks flying. So, important you have those floors protected.
LESLIE: Yeah. And here’s another thing I think people forget a lot until, all of a sudden, you have an unwanted visitor in the house. Make sure that you’ve got chimney caps on. You want to have them installed. It’s going to keep wildlife from using your chimney as a passageway into your home. It’s nice and warm in there. They’re finding an easy way into the house and you don’t want that to happen.
I remember we first bought our house, a squirrel came down through the chimney. And luckily, we had those glass doors on the fireplace when we moved in. And we heard a ruckus and we couldn’t believe it that there was, literally, a squirrel sitting in there.
TOM: It’s funny because I remember one of my early years as a home inspector, I always would look up the chimney, right, from the fireplace? And I was lifting that damper door and it was heavy. I’m thinking, “This is weird. It’s heavy.”
LESLIE: Oh, no. What was in there?
TOM: So, listen – so I lift the damper door up and then a tail drops through the door. It’s like, “Whoa.”
LESLIE: Oh, my goodness. Was it alive or dead?
TOM: So there was – I think it – no, I think it – oh, it was alive. Very alive. I think it was a raccoon. And I think I scared him more than he scared me. And so he scampered out the chimney.
LESLIE: I don’t know. I feel like you can’t scare a raccoon. They’ve got masks on and they don’t seem very shifty.
TOM: Yeah. Well, listen, another thing to do is to also clean out your firebox. And that’s the area where logs burn. And you want to be sure, though, when you clean it out you take those ashes that you pull out. Even if they seem to be completely out, totally cool, don’t trust it. Always, always, always put those ashes in a metal container and keep it well away from the outside of your house. Don’t store it near the fireplace, don’t store it next to your wall. Get it away from your house. I can’t tell you how many times those ashes fire back up and they can cause a serious problem with your house, a serious fire. So make sure you get them away from your house.
LESLIE: Now we’re heading to South Dakota where Esther has a garage question. What can we do for you today?
ESTHER: Well, we have a long, skinny garage with one door. And I would like to extend the cement floor, of course, and loosen all those bolts that fasten it to the cement and turn it on its side and put two doors or a double door on this long side so we could fit two cars in there.
TOM: So you want to take the door from the end of the house – where it just basically opens up to this long, extra-long garage – and you want to swing the doors over to the side of the house so you can have room for a double door. Is that correct?
ESTHER: Yeah. I just want to turn the garage. I’d leave the hole on the end, you know. I would make that into a sliding door instead of overhead door so it wouldn’t get in the way of the trams up on top.
ESTHER: But someone said that they didn’t think that that way – then the tracks would be going parallel with the stringers across the top.
TOM: So your first challenge here – before we talk about yours doors, because that’s the last thing that you have to deal with. The first challenge is you have to actually structurally change that long side of the house to be able to have these now two large garage doors in it. So that is going to require rebuilding those walls. And is this a two-story house on that side?
ESTHER: OK, no. This is not an attached garage. This is a free-standing garage.
TOM: So on that long side, though, is that where the roof sits?
TOM: The roof rafters come down on that side? Alright. So that is a load-bearing wall, Esther, so it has to be reframed for a standard garage opening. That’s a big job. This is not just a matter of moving the tracks over and knocking out a few 2x4s. This is a big job. You’re going to have to have a header across that that serves as a beam that’s going to support that roof.
ESTHER: Now, would it be better to have one wide, wide door with the beam across or two separate doors with a column in?
TOM: Just as much work. Doesn’t matter.
ESTHER: Oh. OK.
TOM: Big job. Not a do-it-yourself job. A job for a pro. Frame that out and then you’ll – and then you could – perhaps you could preserve the old garage door and move it to one side. But I’ve got to tell you, garage doors are a real pain-in-the-neck to take apart. They’ve got about a million pieces to them and they’re a lot easier to put together when you start all disassembled and are built in place.
ESTHER: Well, we have turned garages before, in different places where we live.
TOM: Alright. So this is a project that you are very familiar with, except in this case, you’re going to have to reframe that exterior wall. And that is the bigger part of this project.
LESLIE: Still to come, holiday celebrations mean a lot of food, which can mean a lot of cooking. If you want to make your kitchen a safe and functional place to make that food prep easier, stick around. We’ve got advice on how to do just that, when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on? If it’s your house, your condo, your yurt, whatever you call home, give us a call with your how-to questions at 888-666-3974, which happens to spell 888-MONEY-PIT. And that’s presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro. And you can instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Alright. But while you’re online, post your question to The Money Pit Community section and we will answer them, just like we always do every week. And first up, we’ve got one here from Ann in Florida.
Now, Ann writes: “I live in a second-floor condo of a three-story building. The neighbor next to me just discovered that she has black mold growing on several of her walls. I have walls that are adjacent to some of them. Should I worry?”
TOM: Well, certainly it’s an issue that’s got to be dealt with. I would be a little bit concerned. I’d like to know what the cause of the mold is, whether it’s being started by a leak, for example, in the building. Because it could be growing in the walls before it starts to grow on the walls.
What I would recommend, Ann, is that you document what’s happening here in a letter to the condo management. And just don’t put a maintenance ticket in but make sure it’s documented. Because the faster it gets fixed, the lower your risk.
LESLIE: Yeah. You’ve got to jump on that mold quickly because it can spread so fast. And you just don’t want to mess with it.
TOM: Well, many of us will be spending more and more time in the kitchen as we get ready for holiday celebrations and all sorts of festivities throughout the new year. So, if you’re looking for shortcuts to make that process a little bit easier, Leslie has got tips on how to create a kitchen that is safe and functional, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
Leslie, take it away.
LESLIE: You know, it’s true. I really do love cooking for my family and my friends but there are several tips and tricks that I always keep in mind to make sure that I’m working safely and I’m working smart.
First of all, you’ve got to remember that raw poultry can carry Salmonella. And preparing it requires an extra step of disinfecting. You’ve got to wash your hands often. You should use a plastic cutting board, not wood because that wood’s just going to hold all those germs in the small cuts on that board’s surface. And if you want some quicker cleanup, what I tend to do – and it depends on what else I’m working on and how many cutting boards have gotten use – you can flip over that board right after you do the poultry prep. But you have to make sure that you wipe down that counter with a disinfectant afterwards. And even if I’m switching to another cutting board, I always wipe everything down in between there, including the faucet and the handles to turn the water on and off. Because it gets everywhere, the poultry, and you just don’t want to get anybody sick.
Now, heavy pots and pans, they can be tricky on their own just to move them from place to place. So when you’re filling, you want to place the pot on the stove first and then add your ingredients. You can get an extra-long hose for your sink sprayer so you can fill the pots with water without moving them. Granted, you’ll still have to move them after things are cooked but it’s one initial step saving yourself from moving something heavy.
Now, lighting. A lot of times, you think of the kitchen, you want to have mood lighting but you really need to have task lighting. And it’s not difficult to do. You can stick on those LEDs – they run on batteries – and put them under your cabinets. Because that’s going to help you really see what you’re working on in the kitchen. And this is the busy time of year in there, so you have to make sure you can see what you’re doing. I mean nobody wants a half-stuffed turkey. Am I right, you guys?
Finally, you’ve got to remember that half of all burns treated in the ER result from a scalding injury. So make sure that you set your home’s water temperature to 120 degrees. And that’s going to avoid water coming from the tap at a dangerous temperature. You might have people in your house who aren’t used to the water temperature range in your home, so just help everybody stay safe this holiday season. And enjoy it and enjoy your family and your friends and all the tasty foods of the season.
TOM: Good tip.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, have you ever had a deal with a drippy, leaky faucet? Well, faucets have come a long way and now they’ve got better valves and finishes. So we’re going to share how you can find faucets that can deliver years of drip-free use, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Gardening doesn’t have to end just because the kids are back to school and the temperatures are starting to cool off. In fact, fall gardening can be one of the most productive times of the year for many homeowners. Cool season crops like lettuce, broccoli, and peas can all be easily grown within the span of a fall garden. Many fruits and vegetables also reach maturity during the fall including melons, apples, pumpkins, and squash!Keys to a Successful Fall Garden
Starting your fall garden is very dependent on your climate and location, as determined by the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, a handy interactive tool developed by the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service. This interactive map is the standard by which gardeners and growers can determine which plants are most likely to thrive at a location By entering your zip code, you’ll quickly identify your hardiness zone and be able to shop for plants that grow well in your own backyard!
Here’s how to prepare for fall gardening based on your USDA Hardiness Zone:Zones 1a-4a
Locations in this coldest region of the country include far north states of Alaska as well as the Northern Plains states of Montana, North Dakota, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. The Northern areas of New England are also grouped in these zones that see frigid winter temperatures.
The growing season for a fall garden will be smaller in these zones compared to other parts of the country based on their location and elevation. Homeowners in this region should begin preparing for fall planting in July as the first frost date can be as early as July 1st in the extreme 1a zone. Homeowners in zones 2 will see a first frost date in August while those in Zone 3 will see a frost in September. Zone 4a will normally see a first frost in the early part of October. Consider choosing quickly germinating fall crops like lettuce in order to have mature plants before the first frost arrives in your area.
Much of the middle to northern areas of the country are within these zones which include parts of Idaho, Wyoming, and much of the Midwest. The Southern regions of New England are also a part of these zones that still see cold temperatures during the winter.
Homeowners in Zone 4b can see frosts in early October so fall planting should take place in the middle of August in order to reap a fall garden harvest. Those in Zone 5 can see frost in the latter part of October and would benefit from planting in late August as well.Zones 6a-7b
Much of the country falls into this category as Zones 6 and 7 can span over much of the West and through the middle of the country. Those in Zone 6 are likely to experience a first frost during the first part of November which should give an ample amount of time to grow fall vegetables.
Homeowners in Zone 7 will see a delayed first frost towards the end of November allowing a lot of growing time up through Thanksgiving. Both of these Zones would benefit from planting in September as August would most likely be too hot for cool season plants.
If you are lucky enough to live in these zones you most likely see mild temperatures in the fall garden season. Locations in these zones include the Pacific Coast as well as much as California and the Southern states. Zones 8-10 see hot and sometimes humid summers that cool off slightly for fall. Homeowners in Zone 8 won’t see a frost until early December while those in Zone 9 will see one in late December.
In Zone 9, however, there are many fruits and vegetables that can withstand heat and survive in frost, making gardening in this zone quite bountiful. Locations in Zone 10 are unlikely to see a frost at all and have a year round growing season. Fall planting can take place much later in these locations at around early October in order to provide enough cooling off for those plants that can’t stand the heat.Zones 11+
Only a few locations in the country are in this USDA Hardiness Zone including Hawaii and the very Southern tip of Florida. Homeowners in these regions may actually have a harder time growing cool season plants as the weather is fairly warm all year round. For those that live in these topical climates – it’s a small price to pay for the pleasure of pleasant weather year-round!
There are plenty of possibilities in growing fall produce no matter what USDA Hardiness Zone you are in. From peas to lettuce to green beans, your fall garden can grow a lot of food in this shortened growing season before winter arrives. Consider your home’s location and unique growing climates in order to prepare for a successful and productive fall season in the garden.
From Source Article: moneypit.com