LESLIE: Alright. Now up, we’ve got Paul calling in from Tennessee who’s got an issue air in well water and with a water pump. Tell us what’s going on.
PAUL: I’m getting some air in this well water. The well is six-and-half years old, as is the house. And it goes down 350 feet and the casing goes down 105 feet where they grouted it. When they first put it in, I was bothered by the amount of turbidity I had in it and I was changing the whole-house filter about once a week.
And I went back to the drilling company and they said, well, it would take about three months to quit that. Well, it was 36 months. And then after about four years, I started getting some water hammer in the cold water, particularly in the basement although upstairs, it’ll do it, too.
But then I’m getting air out of the faucets upstairs and it’s collecting air from somewhere and I can’t figure out where. And as far as I know, the well tank, with the bladder in it, the 40 pounds of air pressure hold the bladder. That seems to be OK, Tom.
TOM: OK. Yeah, that was the first thing I was going to think: that if you had a leak in that bladder tank, that that would cause air in well water. Other possible causes are bad siphons but I’m not quite sure how you could test that without having all the gear that you would need.
Have you had the well company come back and take another look at this, specifically for the air-bubble problem?
PAUL: No. Because it’s been quite a while and they – the guy they used to have there at the company, in the daytime, didn’t seem to know much about it. In fact, when he told me 3 months it was going to clear up and it was 36 months, I thought maybe I’m talking to the wrong guy. But I haven’t gotten a hold of him.
TOM: Well, he told you 3 months because his warranty was 90 days, right?
TOM: Paul, obviously, we’re getting air in well water, into that system and if it’s not coming through the bladder tank, I’m not quite sure where it’s coming in. And I think you’re going to have to get a well expert there – a real expert – that understands these things and try to see if there’s any way they can determine exactly how that air is getting in.
Do you have another well company that you might try?
PAUL: Yeah, there’s several of them here because this area is very rural. We’re right at the edge of the Smokies.
TOM: I would try another well company, because you didn’t have good luck with the first one, and see if you can get to the bottom of it. But I agree with you: if it’s not the tank, it more than likely is the pump.
PAUL: OK. Well, very good. And thank you. I will try someone here local and see if they can (inaudible at 0:10:33) it out.
TOM: Alright, Paul. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here to help you with your home improvement projects. Whether it’s décor, remodeling, new construction, whether you’re going to do it yourself or hire it out, we’d love to help you get those projects done the right way the first time. You can help yourself first, though, by picking up the phone and calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or you can post your question, right now, to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s show, from cracks to potholes to just general wear and tear, asphalt driveways need a lot of regular TLC to be able to stand up to the test of time, not to mention all of the road salt that lies ahead. We’re going to have the step-by-step to make sure yours is ready for the rough weather, in just a bit.
LESLIE: And updating your home with beautiful, new flooring is one of the most popular projects for this time of year. But is this a project that you can do yourself? We’ll sort out the pros and the cons.
TOM: Plus, this hour, we’re giving away the perfect product to help you clean up your outdoor furniture for the season with all that dirt, mildew, mold and general grime that might have it covered right now. We’re giving away Spray & Forget’s Outdoor Furniture Cleaner. It’s the go-to product to really spruce that furniture right back up.
We’ve got a supply going out to one listener drawn at random. Make that you. Give us a call, right now, for the answer to your home improvement question and your chance to win at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Ken in Illinois might have an issue with a tree causing some problems with the foundation. What’s going on?
KEN: Well, I have got a tree or – either that or a very stubborn, big weed that is growing right next to my foundation.
TOM: Now, does it appear to be causing any issues? Or you’re not seeing any cracks in the foundation, are you?
KEN: Not yet. Because it’s probably about the size of maybe between a quarter and a half-dollar.
TOM: Yeah, this is kind of a nuisance right now. And as long as it’s not, you know, part of your prized tree collection, I would not let it continue to grow that close to the foundation. I would cut it away.
I mean a lot of folks are concerned about the impact of roots on foundations. And for the level of concern, the times I actually find scenarios where roots have actually impacted a foundation are rare.
TOM: So, it’s nothing to panic over but it’s not wise to allow anything like that to grow that close to the foundation, especially at this early stage. So I would definitely cut it back.
KEN: Every time I cut it back, it just keeps growing. So, I want to somehow get rid of it and I don’t know how to actually kill it.
TOM: So, can’t you just dig it out?
KEN: Well, you know what? I would but we just had a termite treatment around there. And they told me not to disturb the dirt.
TOM: Oh, I get it. Yeah. You don’t want to disturb the treatment chemicals, yeah.
TOM: Well, I tell you what, I think that if you were to dig carefully around it and just cut it down below the surface a little bit, you probably wouldn’t have much effect on those treatment chemicals.
KEN: On the treatment? OK. Well, I might …
TOM: Yeah, I just wouldn’t pull dirt out and put in fresh dirt or anything like that. I would just try to put back what I took out.
TOM: But I really don’t think it’s going to affect you.
KEN: OK. Well, we’ll give that a try.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck with that project, Ken. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
KEN: Thank you. Have a good day.
LESLIE: Suzanne from South Dakota is on the line who’s got some unwanted visitors in the house.
What have you got going on over there? Some carpenter ants?
SUZANNE: Well, we’re not sure where. We don’t see what they’re doing but – and this isn’t the first time. But it seems like in the spring and early summer we get quite a few in the house. And we were just needing to try to get rid of them somehow.
TOM: They may be a different type of ant. But look, here’s the bottom-line answer, Suzanne. If you’re having a significant ant infestation, there are always things that you can do that are low-toxic and sort of natural remedies, like putting Borax around and baking soda and things like that. But truth be told, if you really want to get rid of these insects kind of once and for all – if you want to do it once, do it right – you do need the help of a professional exterminator that’s licensed and has access to the proper products.
Today, the products that are put down to control insects are very well engineered and very heavily tested and monitored. It takes a company an extraordinary amount of time and expense to get their products approved. And when they come in and apply these products, they’re designed not to kill everything in sight but just to basically help you eliminate the insect that you’re trying to avoid which, in this case, are your ants.
So, if it’s a significant population of ants, you’re seeing them frequently, don’t tolerate it. It’s going to be a nuisance to you, even if you kind of – in fits and spurts was able to manage them with some over-the-counter products. If they’re just going to be a constant presence, I would hire a pro to exterminate them.
I would tell you to go to HomeAdvisor.com and use that website to find exterminators in your area that are highly reviewed by your neighbors, because that’s how that works. And then select one and have the house treated. OK?
SUZANNE: I see. OK. Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Suzanne. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show. I hope you guys had a fantastic Labor Day weekend. I know, for me, the kids are finally back at school. And this time, I’ve got two at school all day, all the time. How amazing is this? What am I going to redo first?
What are you guys going to redo first? Are you painting? Are you cleaning the upholstery? What are you doing to get the house back to yours? Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Just ahead, there’s an old saying that good fences make great neighbors. But that’s only if you can get the fence built. We’re going to have some tips to make that project a lot easier, after this.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by to take your calls, your questions to 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros, compare prices and book appointments online, all for free.
And after the long summer, if your outside furniture is looking a bit dirty or moldy, the best product to spruce it up is Spray & Forget’s Outdoor Furniture Cleaner. And we’ve got a supply of just that to give away to one listener who calls in their home improvement question or posts it, online, at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Yeah. I’ve got to say the best part about Spray & Forget Outdoor Furniture Cleaner is it’s a no-rinse formula. So it’s going to remove the dirt, grime, all those bird droppings, sap, all the yucky stuff that comes from the trees right from the fabric and the hard surfaces. It also will remove green and black biological stains that you find are caused by algae or mold or even mildew.
You can use it on patio furniture, the furniture covers, the grill, the grill cover, awnings, hammocks, flags, you name it. Any outdoor surface you can get clean. It also gives you UV protection and helps to keep the color from fading over time.
Check them out at SprayAndForget.com.
TOM: The value of the Spray & Forget Outdoor Furniture Cleaner is 29.90. Going out to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. The number, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now I’ve got Linda from Rhode Island on the line who’s having a hard time being patriotic.
What’s going on, Linda?
LINDA: Well, what I have – the flagpole I have is the actual bracket that you put the aluminum pole into.
LINDA: And I was trying to attach it to the front column, which is aluminum, on my porch.
LINDA: The column is not perfectly smooth. It’s variegated with indents.
TOM: OK. Right.
LINDA: And it is right up close to the frame of the door.
LINDA: So, I put one – I was able to put one screw in that came with it. And when I put the other screw in, it held for maybe a day the first day the flag was up.
LINDA: And the next time I went to put it up, the other screw – one of the screws pulled out.
TOM: Just popped out, yeah. OK.
TOM: So, let me – you want to put this on the column. You say the column is next to your door? Is that right?
LINDA: Right next to the doorframe. It’s a very small area but the whole area in the front is small.
TOM: Alright. So, a couple of ideas. First of all, in a scenario like that, the hardware that comes with the bracket is probably not good enough. Because what you want is a screw that’s going to go deep into that column or deep through the column. And if, in your case, the column is part of the front façade of the house, it would go into the frame. So, a longer screw is going to be helpful.
And the second thing is that you’re going to want to pilot-hole those screws before you put them in, not just try to force them into the column metal. So you’re going to want to use a drill that is smaller than the screw. If you can imagine a screw has the threads and has sort of the solid part in the middle, you want the pilot drill to be just a little bit smaller than that solid part of metal in the middle of the screw.
Now, the other thing that you could possibly do – if you’re having trouble because, as you described, it’s uneven and sort of variegated, I think, was the word you used – is you could put another block on that column first. Now, you could do this with metal, you could do it with a piece of oak, like wood that was finished. And you would attach that really solidly and then you put the bracket on top of that. So, this way, you’ll have another piece in between but it might make, collectively, for a more secure installation by not putting the bracket right on that variegated, uneven column.
So, those are a couple of options for you. But I think you’re going to need better hardware, not just what came with the bracket. Because you’re right: it has to be really secure, especially when that flag starts whipping in the wind. Those brackets take a lot of force. And if it’s not held in well, it’s going to pop out.
LINDA: Oh, well, thank you ever so much. I certainly will take your advice and I will try it.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LINDA: Thank you.
TOM: Well, you know, it used to be that when you wanted to work with concrete for small projects, like maybe setting a fence post, it was pretty much a hassle because you had to buy all the raw materials, you had to mix them up. You probably had to use tools like your garden wheelbarrow or your garden hoe and then clean them off before the concrete became permanently attached to the tools. It was a big mess.
LESLIE: Well, QUIKRETE has made it a lot easier with their Fast-Setting Concrete in the red bag. It’s a special blend of fast-setting cements, sand and gravel that are designed to set in about 20 to 40 minutes. Now, you can use it for setting a fence post, a mailbox, deck footings or even pouring a small concrete slab.
And for those posts, you don’t even have to premix it. You just pour the dry mix into the hole, add the water and the post is going to be solid-set in 20 minutes.
TOM: QUIKRETE Fast-Setting Concrete is available at all home improvement retailers for about $5 per bag, so look for it in the red bag.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Michael in California on the line who wants to start an A/C debate. Let’s hear it.
MICHAEL: I had a question with regards to a window unit changing out to a split system and what your feelings are in regards to cost-saving.
TOM: Yeah, Leslie and I both have split-ductless systems in our homes. Now, I have one in my office and I actually have a central air-conditioning system. But on this side of the house, in the west side of the house, it gets so much sun that the central A/C can’t keep up with it. And so, as a result, it gets really hot, especially on the super warm, summer days.
So I use split-ductless there. It can handle a bigger area than a window unit. It’s going to be quieter than a window unit and it’s actually more energy-efficient than a window unit.
LESLIE: I mean, Michael, they truly do kick butt. We have one in our basement at home because, apparently, we’re the only house in the Northeast of the United States that has a super-hot basement in the summer. Every other person I know, you go down in their basement it’s freezing; ours, it’s like a sauna. So we put a split system down there and it cools fantastically. And to be honest, ours sort of works as an air conditioner, a dehumidifier and we also have the optional heat pump so that we could have supplementary heat in the basement in the winter months.
And in the summertime, I practically never even put it on air condition, just because the dehumidification option cools the space fantastically. It’s super quiet; you would never even know it’s on. The condensing unit, which will go outside, is slim and small; it does not occupy a large footprint. I thought it was an affordable option and it works fantastic.
MICHAEL: And do you have a recommendation for any particular brand?
TOM: Yeah, take a look at Mitsubishi Electric’s Cooling & Heating System. They are one of the leaders in the split-ductless category. Their systems are very energy-efficient and they have a technology that works like a cruise control in a car and then it ramps up to the cooling temperature that you want very quickly. And then it maintains there without turning on and off and on and off; it kind of slows down and speeds up. It actually feeds that cool temperature, leaves it nice and steady. Super-quiet system and also has a couple of cool features.
For example, it has a smartphone app that you can use to run it. So, if you like gadgets, like me, you like good-quality, energy-efficient equipment, take a look at that Mitsubishi system.
MICHAEL: Alright. Well, thank you. I appreciate the info.
TOM: You’re welcome, Michael. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ruth in Georgia, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RUTH: I have – it’s on the inside of my house. I have redwood stain and I have a white film. I’ve used furniture polish and got it off, thinking that took care of it, but it’s back again.
LESLIE: Where is this stain? Is it trim work? Is it …?
RUTH: It’s the banister and the doors.
TOM: And you have a redwood stain on these areas?
RUTH: Yes. It’s a redwood stain on it.
TOM: Well, if it’s trim work and banisters, doesn’t it have a finish coat on it, like a polyurethane?
RUTH: No, it does not.
TOM: Typically, for banisters and trim, you would use the stain first, then you would have a clear coat on top of that.
RUTH: No, it does not have that.
TOM: So, is it fairly rough to the touch then?
RUTH: Yes, it is.
TOM: So, what I would do then – because the stain is not designed to be the finish coat. Stain is designed to be covered with a urethane. So I would do this and I would do this in an experimental way to start with. I would clean it again, make sure it’s nice and dry and then I would seal it or urethane it.
And I think on the trim, you could use water-based urethane; get a quart of it. And it goes on real thin, it dries very quick and it will seal in that stain. And see if that protects it in the way you expect it to behave. Because stain is really just designed to color the wood and make the grain come out. It’s the urethane that gives you the wear-and-tear protection.
RUTH: I appreciate your help. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Ruth. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Joe in California is on the line with a leaky chimney. Tell us what’s going on.
JOE: Well, it’s an old one from the 60s, I believe, but it was beautifully built. It’s 15 foot wide and 2 stories up and I’m on the second story. But the water is going through the mortar coming in and it’s terrible. It’s like a waterfall in the wintertime.
TOM: So, you say that water is coming through the mortar. Do you know for a fact that it’s coming through in a particular place? Because, generally, when chimneys leak, there’s two areas that we concentrate on. The first is the very top of the chimney. And if it’s a masonry chimney, you probably have a clay flue liner. Is that correct?
JOE: Yes, it is.
TOM: Alright. And then so the space between the clay flue liner and the outside edge of the brick chimney, that has to have a concrete cap on it. And that should be sloped away from the flue liner to the outside edge. It can’t have any cracks or holes or gaps in it. And very often, you have to caulk it, if that does develop, around the flue liner, as well as through the cracks.
The second place that chimneys typically leak is at their intersection with roofs. And unfortunately, roofers have almost universally lost the skill set that would have enabled them to be able to flash this joint properly between the chimney and the roof. Because the proper way to do this is with a two-piece flashing system where you have a base flashing that goes underneath the roof shingle and up against the side of the chimney. Then counter flashing, which is carved into the mortar joint, folds over the outside edge of the chimney and also over the base flashing.
And the reason that sort of two-piece design is important is because chimneys are always moving and roofs are always moving and they don’t move together. And so, this is sort of a slip joint, so to speak, where they can actually move and shift with the wind and the heat and the rain and the expansion and contraction without actually breaking down.
So, I would look at those two areas. And then I’ll just give you one other tip. If you have a roof where there’s a lot of water running down before it hits the base of the chimney, in a situation like that, what you want to do is put a diverter on the roof, midway, to kind of short-circuit some of the water that’s running down towards the chimney and run it around the chimney. And that will just simply reduce the volume of water that’s getting in there and potentially leaking through into your house.
JOE: This has got a flat, metal top over the top of the chimney that mostly keeps the rain from coming down the chimney but I haven’t really looked at the flue liner up there. That’s a good point.
TOM: Yep. Take a careful look, Joe, OK?
JOE: OK. Alrighty. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, from cracks to potholes to just general wear and tear, asphalt driveways need regular care to be able to stand up to the test of time. We’re going to have the step-by-step to make sure yours is ready for the rough weather ahead, when Roger Cook stops by.
TOM: And today’s This Old House segment on The Money Pit is brought to you by Lumber Liquidators. Get the latest fall trends in hardwood, bamboo, laminate and waterproof floors for less.
We’ll be back with more tips and your questions, after this.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to hear from you right now. So pick up the phone and call us with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They really have the best local pros for any home service.
LESLIE: That’s right. Doesn’t matter what the project is, they make it fast and easy to find top-rated pros.
TOM: And there are no membership fees. It’s 100-percent free to use. HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Alright. Kay is on the line now and she needs some help painting a door.
Kay, tell us about your project.
KAY: Yeah. And I listen to you every week you’re on.
TOM: Well, thank you so much.
LESLIE: Oh, thanks, Kay.
KAY: I wanted to paint my wood door. It’s a very old wood door. And we lived here since ‘69 and I’m trying to keep it original. It’s red now.
KAY: My husband painted it only one coat and I think it was blue.
KAY: It needs another coat to make it real red but I want to paint it white.
TOM: Well, I mean the color is a personal preference. So, to paint this door, the best thing to do is to take it off of the hinges and lay it flat on a couple of sawhorses. And then you want to sand the old surface. You want to make sure you get rid of any flaking paint, any cracked paint, because you can’t put good paint over bad paint. You’ve got to get all that stuff off.
KAY: It’s not cracking or anything. It’s smooth as can be.
TOM: Alright. So then he must have done a great job when he painted it last time.
KAY: He did. He sanded it down to the wood. It was all, you know, original wood, so it’s really smooth. That’s why I wasn’t sure and I don’t know if I can get the paint off like if you – and I didn’t want to scrape it.
TOM: Well, I don’t think you have to take all the old paint off. If it’s adhering well, then you’re good to go on it. So sand it down and then I would recommend that you put a coat of primer on. Because this will make sure that the new paint adheres as well as the old paint did.
Primer is kind of the glue that makes the paint stick. So, put the primer on.
KAY: Will KILZ work? Because I’ve got a gallon of KILZ.
TOM: It’ll work fine, yep. You put the KILZ on, let it dry and then you could put your topcoat on that.
KAY: To sand it, what do I have to do? Knock the sheen off?
TOM: Yeah, knock the sheen off. Exactly right. You don’t have to sand it down to the raw wood but you have to get that sheen off. So a medium grit, like 100-grit sandpaper, would work really well, OK?
LESLIE: Well, asphalt driveways are the personal roadways of our homes. But just like the roads we travel to work, they certainly take a lot of abuse: extreme weather, sun, road salt, you name it.
TOM: That’s right. And from cracks to potholes to just general wear and tear, asphalt driveways need regular care to be able to stand up to the test of time. Here to tell us how to do just that is landscaping contractor Roger Cook from TV’s This Old House.
And Roger, this is a project I end up doing about every two years. I’d love to identify a more durable solution to keeping that driveway in good shape. Any ideas?
ROGER: Move. No, it’s an ongoing process because you think about a driveway, it sits out and it bakes all summer long and then it freezes all winter long, so there is going to be some movement in it. And you will get, eventually, hairline cracks and even the pavement itself just needs to be recovered with the oil. The oil will dry out.
TOM: And I think a lot of us assume that our driveways should be just as durable as the roads that we drive on but those roads are built quite different than a driveway. And driveways, there seems to be a wide variety to it in terms of how well they’re built. Some of them are thinner, some of them are thicker, some have a good base, some don’t. And you can tell as time goes on.
ROGER: You sure can. In some cases, you can even get ruts in the driveway where you drive because it’s not good material underneath it. But the key is to save that driveway for as long as you can. It’s thousands of dollars to replace a driveway. It’s a big job that you cannot do yourself as a homeowner. But you can go out and you can fill cracks and you can reseal the driveway and get more life out of it.
LESLIE: So is it better to sort of start with repairing the cracks, potholes, et cetera that you might be noticing in your driveway before you go ahead and reseal it?
ROGER: Yes. Hopefully, it hasn’t gotten to that point when you’re there. You can catch everything early because like anything else, the smaller the crack, the easier it is to seal and keep from getting bigger. And that’s the thing: when a crack opens up in the driveway, water goes in and then it freezes and it opens the crack more, more and more. So we’re – hopefully, we can intervene in that cycle and stop it from ruining the driveway.
TOM: Now, what about the low spots or the sort of the mini-potholes? Is there a patching product you can use for those?
ROGER: There is. There’s a couple of them. One is a very – type that can go on very thin. But a lot of time, with those potholes, you really have to dig out and excavate and then use a different product which is good for 2 inches of compaction.
TOM: And that’s more like a stone, kind of blacktop patch sort of product, right?
ROGER: Yeah, it’s literally the stuff you see them using on the street again. And then, what you would do is after you patch that area, you should reseal the whole driveway. Because otherwise, you’re going to have little black spots all over the place.
LESLIE: And that’s really a project that you need to have enough materials start to finish; you don’t want to stop midway.
LESLIE: So how do you know that you’re getting enough for the job?
ROGER: You buy that product in a 5-gallon bucket. It usually weighs about 55 pounds. Now, that bucket usually covers 300 to 400 feet. So you can get pretty close, boy, using that amount, because there’s nothing worse than getting halfway through the job and not having enough to finish. If you get an extra bucket, you can always return it. There’s nothing worse than trying to run down while the other stuff is drying and grab a bucket and get back in time to blend it all together.
TOM: Now, any preferences on sealer type? I know there’s solvent-based and there’s latex products today.
ROGER: I’ve been with the solvent-based ones and had good luck with those. The key, I think, is to use one of the squeegee-type brushes they have to put it on with and get a nice, even coat.
TOM: Right. And those are inexpensive, so you pretty much can – one use and throw it away, right?
ROGER: They’re really not good for anything after you have them spreading that …
TOM: Yeah. You don’t want to have to clean those, right?
ROGER: No, no, don’t try that.
LESLIE: And wear good, protective clothing covers, because it does not come off of anything. I’ve got some work boots to show that it’s never going to go away.
ROGER: And do not walk in the house afterwards without inspecting the shoes, because you don’t think you have any on you and you go walking across the kitchen floor and someone will bring to your attention that you will be cleaning the floor.
TOM: And very quickly.
Now, what if the driveway is just structurally deteriorated? Is there a point where it makes sense to have another layer added to it or just to take it completely down and start from scratch?
ROGER: You know, if you put a layer on top of it, it’s still bad underneath.
ROGER: And eventually, it’s going to fail. So it’s the economics of is – it’s less expensive to just put a layer over the top than obviously it is to come and rip out what you have, take away a foot of material, put a foot of gravel, compact it and then come back and re-asphalt the driveway.
TOM: Good advice. Roger Cook from TV’s This Old House, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
ROGER: Oh, it’s great. Primetime drive.
LESLIE: Alright. You can catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For your local listings and a step-by-step video on how you can repair your driveway, visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House and Ask This Old House are brought to you on PBS by GMC Trucks and SUVs.
Up next, updating your home with beautiful, new flooring is one of the most popular projects for this time of year. But is it a project you can do yourself? We’ll have details, just ahead, in today’s Flooring Tip presented by Lumber Liquidators, next.
Where home solutions live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, we’ve just come off of a really big holiday weekend, sort of officially ending summer. I mean not the actual end-of-summer date but you guys know what I mean. Well, when you were outside, did you notice maybe your outdoor furnishings or the deck kind of looking a little worse for the wear? Maybe you see some dirt, maybe some mold? They’ve been sitting out there in the elements all summer long.
Well, we’ve got a great product to help you spruce up that furniture. It’s Spray & Forget’s Outdoor Furniture Cleaner. And we’re giving away a supply to one lucky listener who calls us or posts their home improvement question or even a décor question. We’ve got up for grabs the Spray & Forget Outdoor Furniture Cleaner worth 29 bucks.
TOM: Yep. It’s a no-rinse formula. It’s takes out the dirt, the grime, the bird droppings and the tannins that are left in fabric and hard surfaces. It also takes out the green and the black biological stains that are caused by algae, mold and mildew. It works great on furniture covers. It works great on cushions, all that upholstery. It really is going to make it look terrific.
It also leaves some UV protection behind, so that’s going to rejuvenate and prevent color-fade protection over time. And it’s friendly for the planet.
You can get more info at SprayAndForget.com. It’s worth 29.90 but we’ve got a supply going out to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. The number, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or you can post your question online at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Richard in Kansas, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICHARD: I’m interested – I have an older home I remodeled. It’s built in the 30s and I wanted to put in a whole-house water-filtration system. And I was going to connect right to the service line going in.
And I’ve been shopping around. I found the small canister types and then it just jumps up to a big, 33-gallon, barrel-type filtration, which is too much. And I just wanted to know what a good brand is and what I need – reverse-osmosis and all that.
TOM: Richard, 3M makes the Filtrete line. That’s F-i-l-t-r-e-t-e. And they have single filters for use under maybe your kitchen sink or bathroom but they also have a whole-house system. It’s not terribly expensive; I think it’s under 100 bucks. And installation is pretty straightforward, so perhaps you could even do it yourself. And they also have various levels of filtration.
So I would take a look at the Filtrete Whole-House System Water Filters and I think that’s a good choice to make sure your water is tasting good throughout the entire home.
Well, updating your home with beautiful, new flooring is a great way to add value and enjoyment to it for years to come. But is this a project you can do yourself or should you hire a pro to help? We’ll help you sort that out, in today’s Flooring Tip presented by Lumber Liquidators.
LESLIE: First, just like any project, just because you can do the job yourself doesn’t mean that you should. Now, some floors can be difficult to install and can require special tools that you might not have. Plus, if you’re not experienced, mistakes made could even ruin the flooring or impact the product’s warranty, only adding to that project’s overall expense.
TOM: Now, that said, whether you’re DIY-savvy or not, there are a lot of benefits to having floors professionally installed, like having licensed and insured installers to assess, measure, install and even clean up that installation mess. Pros can also make sure your floor is installed the right way, which means you can have the peace of mind the job was done right and just get on with enjoying your floor.
LESLIE: And today’s Flooring Tip has been presented by Lumber Liquidators. Now offering professional installation nationwide. With Lumber Liquidators Install+, you’ll get the floor you want, the quality installation you need and the value you deserve.
TOM: Visit your local Lumber Liquidators store nationwide today or online at Lumber Liquidators.com. Lumber Liquidators, beautiful floors for less.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Joseph on the line with an electrical question. What’s going on at your money pit?
JOSEPH: I’ve got an older house. It was built in the 1940s and my daughter’s nursery, the overhead fan and lights work but none of the sockets in the room function. And I have no breakers that have tripped.
TOM: So, somewhere, those sockets are disconnected. Now, are you sure the sockets are not connected to a light switch?
JOSEPH: I am 99-percent positive, sir.
TOM: There’s a seed of a doubt there that perhaps they could be. You know, sometimes the light – the outlets are operated by a light switch. But I would say that it’s not normal for that to happen in a 1940s house.
But what you need to do is this – and when I say you need to do, more accurately an electrician needs to do. You’ve got to get into the wiring that’s supplying those outlets and try to figure out why it’s disconnected. I can’t imagine a reason it would have been physically disconnected, which means it’s most likely some failure in the wiring of the outlets themselves. But if you open up the outlets, you can see if you have hot wires there and try to figure out at what point they became de-energized. Because they are probably wired in series, so the wiring goes from one to the next to the next. And you need to do a little bit more investigation to figure out why that is.
But it’s really not a do-it-yourself project. I don’t want you to make a mistake and I don’t want you to get electrocuted.
JOSEPH: Yes, sir. Then I will definitely look at calling an electrician.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Still ahead, when the water pressure in the shower is low, blood pressure can get sky-high. Find out what’s causing your home’s water pressure to fluctuate and what to do about it, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Hey, we’re here to answer all your home improvement questions. There’s lots of ways to get in touch with us. You can post your question online to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com or call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Now, Kathy from California posted her question and she’s having an issue with water pressure.
LESLIE: That’s right. Now, Kathy writes: “The water pressure throughout my house is intermittently high and low. Within a 1-minute period, it goes from being very low to wonderful for maybe 6 to 8 seconds and then low again. It makes laundry take forever, washing dishes a pain and showers less than enjoyable. Any advice on what the problem might be and how to fix it?”
That sounds terrible, Kathy. I’m very sorry.
TOM: It absolutely does. And if it’s happening throughout the house, you’ve got to start by looking at the main valve.
Now, I wonder if you are on city water or this is well water. Because it would explain a lot of it was well water. But it could be an issue with the pump that’s cycling like that.
But the first step, Kathy, is determining how much pressure you have at the main water line, because that needs to be constant throughout the entire house. And if you don’t have enough pressure there, then that could be the reason you’re having this inconsistency. So, I would have a plumber check the water pressure at the main.
Now, if you do have well water, you may very well need to take one additional step and check not only the well water but also a pressure tank. Because what happens is the well water is pumped into the pressure tank and then supplied from the pressure tank to the rest of the house, with the tank sort of maintaining pressure throughout that entire period of time.
So, a couple things to look into, depending on whether or not you get your water from the ground or from the municipal main water line. Hope that helps and thanks so much for writing us at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post here from Richard in Connecticut who writes: “The skylight in my kitchen ceiling condenses in the winter, dripping water down the drywall and wrecking the paint around the opening of the skylight. The best solution I’ve come up with is using a plastic sheet to seal off room air from reaching the skylight. Needless to say, it doesn’t look very nice. Any better suggestions?”
TOM: Well, Richard, look, the reason you’re getting this condensation is because you have two things happening here.
First of all, you have a lot of wet, humid air in the kitchen. So, I would ask that you check your vent fan over the range and make sure it’s venting out and not recycling, if that’s at all possible.
Secondly, the skylight itself is obviously not insulated or the insulation in the glass, if it is glass, has failed. So, unless you have an insulated glass surface, when that warm, moist air strikes the cold surface, you get condensation and the drips and the mess.
Now, the idea of putting in some sort of a barrier in between will help but as you mentioned, it’s kind of ugly. There is an opportunity, though, to put in what’s called an “interior storm window.” These are custom-made to fit how windows – like old, wood windows that are drafty in old houses, where you love the windows but you hate the drafts. And they go in temporarily, basically, during the winter season on the inside. But frankly, it’s so much darn work to have one of those made. I’d almost rather see you replace the skylight if at all possible.
If you did, make sure you get a good-quality skylight with low-E glass that’s going to insulate your home well. And since it will be insulated glass, you won’t have the problem of the warm, moist air striking the cold glass and then dripping down all over the place in your kitchen.
LESLIE: Yeah. Because that’s a mess you really don’t need to deal with. Plus, anything’s better than that piece of plastic.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. As we ride closer towards the fall season, we’re here to help you with all your fall home improvement projects, whether they’re do-it-yourself projects or ones you want to hire out a pro. If we didn’t get to your call today, remember, you can reach us, 24/7, at 888-MONEY-PIT. And always post your questions online at MoneyPit.com.
Thanks so much for listening. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
The post Do-Overs: Solutions for Potholes, Cracks and Stains appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this beautiful spring weekend? If it’s your residence, your dwelling, your ground, you’re in accurately the liberty residence because that’s what we do. What a co-occurrence. Give us a call right now. We’d love to help you take on your next home progress assignment at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s show, are you itching to get the plot germinating but wondering what you should start to plant now? We’re going to have some gratuities on a few weeds that are suited for early-summer planting and late-summer eating, exactly ahead.
LESLIE: And also onward, warm climate brought about by the bugs, including the kind that like to eat your house, like termites. You know, they can certainly do a lot of damage but we’re going to tell you how to recognise them, hopefully, before that happens.
TOM: But first, we want to hear from you. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. If you do, we’re giving away an shocking reward that can help you maintain your residence all time long.
LESLIE: That’s right. We’ve got, new from RYOBI, the SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower. Now, the RYOBI SMART TREK features gas-like power. It’s self-propelled technology that’s going to adapt to your pace , not you adapting to the mower’s pace. And it truly does have gas-like power.
It’s available at The Home Depot and HomeDepot.com for 449 bucks. But we have one to give away today to a very lucky listener, right here at The Money Pit.
TOM: Very exciting. Give us a call, right now, with your residence improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Renee, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we are contributing to today?
RENEE: My question is concerning my sump spout. Plainly, a sump pump in the vault. And for a very long time- for several months, I had not been able to heard the sump spout going on. A few weeks- a few months ago, when it was raining very hard, I went down to the basement to see why the sump run wasn’t kicking on and it was the well was filled with water. So, I became onward and I drained the water out by bucketing- making buckets of this, spewing containers of water out until I went down to see where the bullet was. And it was better wouldn’t come on. So I tapped the bullet and eventually, when the spray rose, it did kick on again.
But then now I’m hearing this babble racket in my kitchen-sink piping. And I want to know why.
TOM: Where is the sump pump discharging? Is it exhausting into this cellar sag?
RENEE: The sump spout discharges- it’s connected to the outside sewer strand. And that’s- I guess that sewer- the line is connected to the basement- the kitchen sink.
TOM: OK. So first of all, it has to go through a bait. If it doesn’t go through a capture, you are able come sewage gas that comes back into the basement. So that’s the first thing.
Secondly, the gurgling might just- because it doesn’t have enough water in the sump itself. You’re probably gathering a lot of air in there.
And thirdly, because your sump pump was filling up when you had heavy rain, the causes of that liquid is easily within your ability to repair and stop. Generally, when your sump spout fills up after a heavy rain, it’s because your sewers are clogged or overflowing or your downspouts are not discharging away from the foundation. Or the grunge around the house is not sloping away from the outside walls. That’s what causes problems with water filling up in cellars and fills in a kind- because that outside face sewage is just not set up right.
So I would focus on improving your exterior drainage. There’s a great article on MoneyPit.com about how to solve wet vaults. A slew of that advice applies to this. And then you’ll find that the sump pump is gonna have to run that much less.
RENEE: OK. That’s great news.
TOM: Renee, thanks so much better for scream us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Bill in Michigan is on the line. How can we help you today?
BILL: My wife and I constructed a mansion about 10 years ago and we have a 2-car attached garage. And their own problems is is that the flooring of our garage is not level. And so, when ocean sags off the car from rainfall or more particularly, ice and blizzard, it throws off onto the garage floor and starts to go in different low smudges on the floor.
BILL: And a lot of it disappears directly towards the wall of our house.
BILL: So I’m wondering if there’s anything we can do to correct that trouble without having to remove the floor and replace it.
LESLIE: Can you use something like Abatron or Abocast- I remember which one is the leveling deepened- but to building and strengthening more on one side? Or will that only automatically try to go flat?
TOM: I’m thinking, Leslie, it’s so much work to be able to deal with a surface this big, to try to get it level again.
I actually envision, Bill, it’s frankly going to be easier to tear out the old-fashioned flooring. That might seem extreme but you may be surprised that with the right tool, like a jackhammer, you can have your entire storey torn out in a couple of hours. It undermines up certainly easily. And then you can suitably level it, accurately reinforce it and then repour it and be done.
BILL: I was afraid you were going to suggest that. Because the problem is is the floor is sitting on precast concrete radiations, because we have a spare storage space underneath the garage. And so the irrigate trickles down there.
TOM: Ah. Oh, man.
BILL: So, I could do that, I guess, but I don’t know the likelihood of being able to take cement off of those precast ...
TOM: Yeah, that does- no, that dramatically- I was thinking it’d be over fill dirt like every other one.
TOM: But no, that does manufacture it a great deal harder. So I guess you are going to have to look into a floor-leveling compound for this. And there’s a variety of commodities out there that this can work with. But the key is is it’s not just more concrete; it’s a produce that’s written specifically to stick to the existing concrete floor.
TOM: Because you have the full temperature fluctuate there in Michigan and if you don’t have good adhesion, you’re undoubtedly going to have that second layer chip off. So, it can be done. It’s a bit of a pain in the neck but it certainly can be done.
BILL: Would you intimate a material contractor? Do you think they would be familiar with the options there?
TOM: You may be better off having a pro make love, because you really have to set some words to get this level just right. And then you should be eliminated as you go so that it drains (inaudible).
BILL: Oh, how much could you put on top of a flooring that I described?
TOM: Oh, you could positioned 2 or 3 inches, easily.
BILL: OK. OK. I increase that.
TOM: You’re welcome, Bill. Good blessing with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. But you can also reach us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, which is presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to encounter top-rated, neighbourhood dwelling improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And only ahead, are you itching to get your garden germinating but wondering what you should start to plant now? We’re going to have some tips on a few cases bushes that are suited for early-summer planting and late-summer munching, really ahead.
Making good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
You are listening to The Money Pit, which is was put forward by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a errand. Only use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others pay off a similar assignment. It’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
And remember, while you’re online, ability on over to MoneyPit.com where you can post your questions in the Community section. You can also be used give us a ask with whatever it is you are working on, right here, at 888-MONEY-PIT. We’ll give you a hand. And hey, however you ask your question with us on the breeze, you’ve got a chance to win a great prize. And this is really the excellent summertime giveaway.
We’ve get up for grabs the RYOBI 40 -Volt Lithium 20-Inch SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower. That’s right. I said self-propelled. So, it’s going to adapt to how you walk along, with the SMART TREK technology. So if you’re walking sluggish, it’s going to walk at your speed. If you’re walking swiftly, same lot. It’s not going to drag you across your ground. And even though it is battery-powered, you get the full gas-power feel. It’s really a great choice.
It’s worth 449 horses. If you want to check it out, you can see it at Home Depot and at HomeDepot.com.
TOM: We’ve got one going out to one luck listener. Make that you. Pick up the telephone, give us a order, right now, with your dwelling better question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Steve in Illinois, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
STEVE: Looked outside this year and we’ve got a building that was built in 1929. It’s got a porch above the porch down below. And on the exposed joists, those carpenter bees have framed some flaws in there. And it- we’re looking for a course to eliminate the carpenter bees and not necessarily poison everything in the neighborhood.
LESLIE: Well, part of what they’re doing is - you are familiar, they really enjoy eating this natural wood. So they’re coming there because you’ve got something tasty to offer up. And it turns out that they love to endure these holes that are perfectly 3/8 -inches round.
So, you can do a couple of things. You can have it given by a pest professional and then seal up those pits and that should do the trick. But you’re right: substances are use and that might not be what you have in mind.
The other thing is you can cover that or change that joist perfectly- or whatever the patronize is- with a synthetic wood or a composite that looks like wood but it’s not actually timber. It is likely to be extruded PVC, it is able to recycled plastics. This path, it looks like wood; it’s doing the same job that the lumber case was. However, carpenter bees, carpenter ants, termites, whatever pests like to eat a natural informant as lumber, they’re going to try it, they’re not going to get into it and they’re going to be really confused and fly away and find somewhere else to eat.
STEVE: Yeah, that sounds like an option. Yeah, I was wondering if there was something that- I assume that painting it has not been able to make a difference. I didn’t know if there was something that could be topically applicable in it that would be environmentally friendly and keep the bees out.
LESLIE: Unh-unh. I’ve had them eat through the decorated grove that compiles up my entire screened-in porch. And then what happens is they bore a hole but they won’t bore all the way through. They’ll bore into the wood, even if it’s just a 1x6 or whatever. They found to stand into it and then bore through the grove itself and lay their eggs in there.
STEVE: OK. And it- yeah, it’s amazing. It looks like somebody got out with a instruct and taught the hole in there.
LESLIE: It’s precisely bizarre. It’s perfect how they do it.
STEVE: So, basically, the options, mostly, are having someone come out and treat it or either submerge or converting the material that’s there.
LESLIE: Yeah, reforming material is typically the best bet since they were won’t eat it. And then, as an added benefit, it doesn’t require any upkeep except the periodic cleanup. You’re not going to be painting it all the time. It really is a win-win situation.
STEVE: OK. Yeah, I’ll look into that. I’ve got a contractor that’s got to come out regardles, so I’ll look into both options. But it sounds like it- I’d prefer something that wouldn’t have to do with pesticides but ...
TOM: Steve, I hope that takes care of those carpenter bees once and for all. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Deb in Wyoming, you’ve came The Money Pit. How is impossible to help you today?
DEB: Yeah, I’ve got some trouble with an area of grass right in the midst of my ground. It’s probably 20 x20.
LESLIE: The yard? Or the problem area?
DEB: The difficulty range is probably 20 x20.
LESLIE: OK. That’s a big problem.
DEB: Yeah. And the lawn is pretty big and it thrives actually good the whole way around such areas. And it simply- it’ll grow maybe an inch or two and then it kind of heads out and never really get dark-green. We leant additional water on it and we fertilize it and aerate it, just like the rest of the lawn, but it only doesn’t look good. And seems funny that this organization is time in one area.
LESLIE: Well, it could be that that area, for whatever reason, has a different pH balance than the other parts of your lawn itself. And hence that the grain that you’re utilizing is reacting differently to the soil than the other areas.
So, you might want to take a couple of soil samples from the question expanse and have those experimented. Sometimes, the dwelling centers sell hardly kits. Sometimes, you might have to contact your neighbourhood construct bureau to find out who you can do that with. But you can have a soil test done pretty easily and inexpensively.
And formerly you know exactly what’s going on with the soil in this area, I mean that could be instructing to have this information. Because you could be using the mistaken grain, you could be using the erroneous fertilizer. That will tell you exactly what type of fertilizer, when, how to sea it. That’s really the key now and that should clear up a lot of this problem.
DEB: OK. That like the sound of that. I’ll sure give it a try.
TOM: Deb, I hope that helps you out. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, there are lots of early-summer veggies to choose from, like turnips and beets and radishes and carrots and onions, that are great for early-summer planting. If that’s on your to-do list, it’s best to start with the small seedlings for those working with the shorter changing seasons. Now, some of these seed crops need 90 epoches for maturity but others, like the winter varieties of radishes, they’re ready to begin harvesting in 22 days from seeding. So, you are able to basically eating them in less than a month.
LESLIE: That’s really fast and kind of amazing.
Now that you’ve got a bunch of fresh veggies, well, what are you going to do with them? You can also be used contributed them to leafy salad speck that are also perfect for early-summer germinating, like Swiss chard, arugula and needle lettuce.
And hey, good story: if you like snow peas and you want to add them to a salad, go right ahead and stretch them in your yard. They are excellent for growing in this type of weather. And even though we’re not hoping for any wintertime climate anytime soon, snow peas change in the snow.
TOM: How about that? For more details, check out “Green Goodness: 12 Veggies You Can Plant Right Now” on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Tony in North Carolina is on the line with a water-heating question. What can we do for you today?
TONY: My wife and I are in the process of- I suspect we’re trying to gather as much datum as we can. About to build another home in the next few months and we very much are interested in some of the ENERGY STAR features that we are- have been seeing.
Just wondering, is it feasible for us- there’s only four of us in their own homes- to install the tankless water heater or would we be squandering money there?
TOM: A tankless irrigate heater is an excellent option for a family of four or even more. You buy the tankless water heater based on the number of bathrooms in the chamber of representatives. And the advantage is that you’re simply applying it to heat the sea as you need it. A cistern liquid heater maintenances all of that water red-hot, 24 -7, whether you’re exploiting it or not. A tankless liquid heater attacks on challenge and hots irrigate as it delivers across its heat exchanger, basically. So I do think that a tankless liquid heater sounds like a good engineering in order to be allowed to consider.
And how perfect that you’re building a dwelling now and can strategy it. One of the more common accusations we get- that you might want to consider, Tony- is parties complain that it takes too long for their liquid to get hot in the morning. So, the reason that happens is because the sea heater is very far away from the lavatory. That is a condition that would continue even with a tankless but the advantage is that since the tankless spray heaters are very small and can also be direct-vented through the exterior siding, that you could actually have the ocean heater more centrally located to the lavatories. So that when you do turn the ocean on in the morning, you’re not waiting very long for that irrigate to actually get there.
TONY: OK. I thank you so much for it.
LESLIE: Now we’re chief on over to Washington State where Sabrina is dealing with some grout that’s cracking up. And it’s not roaring; it’s falling apart. Tell us what’s going on.
SABRINA: So I had some grout set fairly some time ago. And they’re about 18 -inch tile sections. And what I’m detecting now is there are several residence- it’s kind of happening all over- where the grout is actually cracking. And I’m not sure what to do.
TOM: So, is it a penalize cracking or is it a big crack?
SABRINA: The grout is cracking and now some of the tile article are cracking.
TOM: Yeah, that’s a problem. It resonates to me like the tile was not put down on a locate that was solid enough. When you use a big tile like that, you need to have a really strong base. So you have to have a mud base or you have to have a tile locate. And you are able even have to have an expansion material underneath that so that you don’t get this kind of cracking. If you don’t get good substantiate across an 18 -inch tile and you get a little bit of movement in the floor, it cracks very quickly.
So, I think this- at this spot, it’s going to be something you’re going to have to manage. And if it gets really bad, you’re going to end up making those tiles out and supplanting them. It’s very hard to recover from this when the tile hassle was potentially not done right to begin with.
SABRINA: Yeah. And I was wondering if it has anything to do with- I’ve heard a couple of beings "re trying to tell me" the underlayment- and maybe you said that- the underlayment wasn’t procured down properly or whatnot.
TOM: It wasn’t strong enough, right. It wasn’t strong enough. You identify, if there’s more- if there’s flex in the storey, the tile is not going to bend, it’s going to crack. And so that’s why the tile- what’s under that tile has to be really solid. With a- bigger the tile, the wider the tile, the little forgiving it is. If you settled mosaic down, you know, it can move the working day long and you’re never going to see those sounds. But when you positioned a big, 18 -inch square tile down, it’s got nowhere to go.
SABRINA: It’s got nowhere to go.
SABRINA: And what is your recommendation for my- for correcting it?
TOM: Unfortunately, there’s no easy recommendation. If the tile project was done wrong to begin with, there’s nothing I can tell you to do that’s going to fix it at this top in time. It’s really going to be something that you’re going to have to condone and eventually, you’re going to end up replacing them. And this time, you’re going to do the suitable place with putting the flooring down.
How long have these tiles been down?
SABRINA: About five years.
TOM: I was going to say, whoever threw them down didn’t really do the job freedom. You’re going to end up having to tear it out and do it again.
SABRINA: That’s OK. Well, thank you, guys. I just wanted to talk to some professionals. And I heard your show and I really appreciate you guys giving me the advice.
LESLIE: You are adjusted to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online.
Hey, if you’ve been experiencing a beautiful garden-variety and landscape but you’re noticing that you’re not the only one, you could be dealing with wildlife that’s making a snack out of your ground. We’re going to have some tips on a natural solution to keep them away, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, if you’ve been enjoying a beautiful garden and landscape but you’ve noticed that you’re not the only one, you might be dealing with wildlife who’s making a snack out of your yard.
TOM: Well, whether it’s rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks or my own personal nemesis, deer- yes, that’s right, I’m at war with Bambi- there’s a mixture that can control these and many more.
LESLIE: With us to talk about that is lawn-and-garden care expert Jim Wood from Bonide, a company that’s been helping homeowners save wildlife at bay now for over 90 years.
JIM: Hi, Leslie. Hi, Tom. Thank you for having me.
TOM: This can be really annoying. You think you’ve done everything right and you’re flourishing a beautiful scenery or a beautiful garden, you wake up one morning or you come home one nighttime from creation and you find out that some of your beautiful return has been snipped at ground level by some of the neighbourhood wildlife. You must get a lot of questions about that at Bonide.
JIM: Yes, we do. And we have a very large assortment of repellents that we have available for customers. But Repels-All Animal Repellent is by far our best seller, as it assures over 15 different animal pests.
TOM: Interesting. So, this particular product naturally repels them? What is it about the produce that stirs these swine want to stay away?
JIM: Well, it’s reached with all-natural ingredients. And what it does, Tom, is it creates a negative tendernes with the animal. The animal does a bad response to either the smell, the savour or the irritation.
JIM: That’s the style that commodity employs. So it was working on all three abilities: bouquet, flavour and irritation.
TOM: Then formerly they get sort of a sense of that and know they don’t want to go back to it, do they generally stay away or is it something that you have to do over and over again?
JIM: It will have to be reapplied about every two months. It’s rain-fast formerly baked and it’ll last up to two months. So they’ll need to procreate some reapplications.
And the other thing you need to realize- individual consumers need to realize- is as bushes thrive- let’s say you scattered the seed in late April. And as that weed germinates through the month of May, understand the brand-new raise doesn’t have any spray on it. So you have to come back and spray that brand-new growth, as well.
LESLIE: Jim, do you think that the animals get used to that taste or that smell of a product and then maybe you shouldn’t be using the same product again and again, because they do develop that same flavor for it? Or can you echo the concoction?
JIM: Leslie, the ideal scenario is to change up the repellings that "youre using" so animals don’t get accustomed to the one experience, one smell, one irritation. If homeowners continue to use the same commodity month in, month out, the animals will get used to it and they’ll exactly mostly manipulate right through it. So the ideal scenario is to change up the repellings that the homeowner uses.
They can use Repels-All- one application- followed up with Bonide’s Animal Repellent, which is a totally different active ingredient and then go back the next time, which would be the third application - you can prepare that with Repels-All. So, yes, it emphatically is a benefit to switch up your animal-repellent concoctions that you use.
LESLIE: So you really should be applying every month or so as the growth in season is happening.
JIM: Yes, I is undoubtedly agree with that. And I would also have indicated that if they get a heavy rainstorm, it has not been able to be a bad notion to reapply after that, as well.
TOM: We’re talking to Jim Wood- he is a lawn-care expert with Bonide- about how to keep some wildlife at bay.
And Jim, what about the type of bush you’re trying to keep this wildlife away from? Does it matter if it’s a vegetable or say, a undergrowth or your lawn? Time this commodity undertaking equally well on all of those types of floras? Is there any concern about, say, putting it on vegetables that would be harvested?
JIM: I’m glad you fetched that up because that is a critical point with Repels-All. Excellent item for apply on shrubbery, trees, perennials, flowers, et cetera, et cetera. Nonetheless, the homeowner should not apply Repels-All immediately to an palatable. So, vegetables and fruits, happens like that, no.
However, you can use either the liquid or the granular copy as a perimeter therapy around those flowers that are being chewed by a targeted animal you want to control.
TOM: Or doing the outside of it and not on the flower- or the vegetable, in such cases- itself.
Now, is this a concentrate? Do you have to mix it up? Or how is it applied?
JIM: Well, Repels-All comes in liquid and granular. In the liquid copy, we have a hose-end, we also have a concentrate that prepares 2 gallons of scatter and then we have a ready-to-use quart container. Then "were having" three sizes of a granular edition. So, the smallest size does up to about 1,000 square foot and then the 6-pound pocket does 5,000 square feet.
TOM: And I’m looking at the list now of all the various the different types of swine that it fights and it includes deer, rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, skunks, fledglings, armadillos and more. Can’t be mentioned that I’ve ever had a problem with an armadillo but those deer, they just love my bushes.
JIM: Oh, this’ll clearly help keep them away.
TOM: Alright. Jim Wood from Bonide, thank you so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
If you’d like to learn more about Repels-All, brain on over to Bonide.com. That’s B-o-n-i-d-e.com.
JIM: Thank you, Tom and Leslie.
LESLIE: Still to come, can you spot rot? Well, maybe not. Now, if it’s termites that have taken up residence instead, you could be mistaken. We’re going to tell you the difference and what the hell is do about both, after this.
TOM: Where residence answers live, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. We’re going to help you with all the things you are working on around your money oppose. And 888 -MONEY-PIT was being submitted by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and record appointments online, all for free.
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LESLIE: Alan in Idaho is on the line with a fissure in a foundation. Tell us what’s going on at your coin pit.
ALAN: You know, when I first bought the chamber of representatives, a contractor chum of mine said it was no big deal and he gave me some epoxy. Said to drill some gap in it and squirt it in there until it mushed out all the way through and then just go ahead and smooth it off. Well, I didn’t seal it but it’s cracked right again beside it.
TOM: OK. So you have a crack in the foundation that you filled with epoxy and it’s continuing to crack. Is that the action?
TOM: How aged is your house?
ALAN: Sixty-seven is when it was built.
TOM: Alright. So it’s concrete-block wall or cinderblock wall, chasten?
ALAN: It’s concrete.
TOM: Now, do you have any drainage questions around the house?
ALAN: Not that I know of.
TOM: Have you had any moisture in the vault or clues of that?
ALAN: The only time I’ve ever had any moisture in the vault is a previous owned instructed a gap in the storey and ran away the condensate pump through the air conditioner into the floor.
TOM: Alright. That’s not the various kinds of sweat we’re concerned about. The rationale I would like to request that question is why there is just like your wall is a little unstable and that it’s continuing to move. And the first occasion to do when that happens- if it’s not a serious crack , not one where the wall is being removed- is to make sure that your grading and your drainage case are absolutely letter-perfect. Because the more sea that drenches around the outside of that house, the more spray that comes off gutters and gets discharged against the wall, the weaker that footing gets.
It’s kind of like this: when it’s rainy and "youre walking" across a field, you sink into the mud because wet dirt is not as strong as baked grime. So we want to try to keep the dirt around your room- and specifically, under your footing- as cool as is practicable. So sewage ascendancy is important.
Now, beyond that, if this is just sort of a hairline rift that’s forming- is that what we’re talking about here?
ALAN: Yeah, yeah, it is. Well, the original one was a moderately good-sized fissure but ...
TOM: Well, what I would do if it’s a hairline sound is I would fill it with silicone caulk, because it will expand and sicken and won’t- epoxy is pretty rigid if it’s going to break and sound through it. So I would just load it with silicone caulk; that will merely keep out some moisture and drafts from coming through it.
ALAN: Alright. And now, if I dig down- I know it doesn’t go clear to the footing because I’ve been down that far. I mine down to see how far it went down. And so, dig down and indicate perhaps tarring it up below grade?
TOM: I wouldn’t go through all that. I convey right now, it’s- I would simply improve the sewage problems and seal the sound from the inside where you can.
TOM: Alright? I don’t think it’s going to really add to it to tar up the whole foundation. You don’t seem to have any major moisture problem here, so we’re just trying to deal with the drafts and any potential leakage in the future.
Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’ve noticed that some of the wood surfaces around your live examine a bit, say, off and then maybe you touch them or you poke at them and you was of the view that the wood pretty much is no longer there, how do you know if what you’re seeing is lumber that’s rotted or wood that’s been damaged by bugs or maybe even both?
LESLIE: Well, injured lumber can shape your home’s exterior look aged, tattered and then it leads to deeper structural difficulties. Either way, the wood’s got to be restored whether that impairment is caused by insects or decomposition. But if it’s insects that are doing the attacking, you might also need to call in a pest professional to make sure that they are not going to come back and get it on all over again.
TOM: Now, if the lumber is rotted, it’s going to look spongy, kind of almost like cork. But if it’s been attacked by wood-destroying bugs, that damage will have a distinctly different pattern to it. Think about the reverberate of a tree: "youve had" the thin reverberates and then you have the thick peals. Now, the thin hoops are of the hard, sluggish wintertime proliferation of the tree. And the thick rings are the soft, rapidly summer growth.
Now, both carpenter ants and termites will gobble that softer summer raise and then they’ll leave that thin wintertime raise alone. So if you encounter a tree that looks like it’s kind of carved out based on those reverberates, you definitely are dealing with insects.
LESLIE: Yeah. Plus, termites are also going to leave dirt or sand behind, which they use to build these tunnels that keep the insect themselves protected while they go out and about and do all that munching away on your house.
Often, though, people will refer to rot damage as dry rot but that’s genuinely a misnomer, because dry rot is nothing more than rotted grove that’s bone-dry out.
TOM: Yeah. And rot needs sweat to develop. So, besides the repair, you do need to protect the timber with a proper finish to keep it from happening again.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Laurel from Louisiana on the line with assist with a tiling job. How can we help you today?
LAUREL: My husband and I are building a new room right now and we’re putting ceramic tile in the front room and the kitchen. And it’s not "re going to be" closed, so we were wondering what was the best kind of sealant to put on that ceramic tile.
TOM: What various kinds of tile are you using that’s not closed? Are you trying to say that it’s not glazed?
LAUREL: No, it was glazed but I was told that you are required to put a sealant over it to stir the tile last longer?
TOM: No , absolutely no truth to the rumors. The glazing is abundance tough sufficient to protect the tile. What you- the sealant frequently refers to the grout. And if you seal the grout, it can help keep it cleanser and rebuff spray. And the grout sealants are silicone-based.
So, as long as you use a good grout sealant- and the time to do this is before you keep moving, you are familiar? Because once you keep moving and you start grinding some dirt in that tile, it becomes a lot harder to maintain. But if you seal the grout right after the tile is installed, that’s the best time to do it.
LAUREL: What would be the best kind to use?
TOM: A silicone one. A silicone-based grout sealant is what you’re looking for.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And you want to look for one that applies in a style that you are comfortable with. Like if you’re doing a smaller grout line, you would look for one that roughly looks like a nail-polish brush or a rolling foam motor. With a floor tile, you could be looking at a 1/4 -inch to a 1/2-inch grout direction, so that’s easier to apply. But you want to make sure you have something that "youre feeling" comfy applying rigorously to the grouted areas.
LAUREL: OK. Alright. Well, thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Laurel. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Coming up, if you realise a crack, does it always spell structural hassles? We’re going to tell you how to sort the serious from the cosmetic, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a label, right now, with your dwelling increase question at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your residence job before you hire a pro and instantaneously work one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: And don’t forget, chief on over to MoneyPit.com where you are able to affix your question in The Money Pit’s Community section.
And I’ve got one now from Vicky. Now, Vicky is in Hawaii and she copies: “We’re about to interview two different contractors who are willing to build our room. What are important questions that I is well aware when he met with these contractors? We once is well aware they improve the whole house and it comes with everything, from the storeys to the roof, even appliances, kitchen, tub, electrical, plumbing, et cetera. I want to be able to compare the entreats equally.”
TOM: That’s a great question, Vicky, and the only room you’ll be authorized to liken those dictations evenly is if you have a very firm, well-developed placed of architectural specifications. Because all of those situations that you just mentioned, from the floorings to the roof to the appliances, they all need to be described in great detail in those specs. Because otherwise, how do you know what kind of insulation, for example, one make is offering over another?
I had a cousin that was building a home that was destroyed in Hurricane Sandy and I had sent him the names of some insulation contractors. And I asked him how it proceeded. He said, “Well, one gave me the prices and they were dramatically different.” I said, “Something’s not right.” And I look back their estimates. He didn’t realize that one contractor was literally putting in half of the separation of the other contractor, because he didn’t have the right spec there or in such cases, I think that because it was a repair, maybe there was never one developed. But it’s time a good example of what can happen. So you need to have a really good set of specifications.
Also, you need to make sure you have an attorney look at the contract with the builder. You want to make sure it furnishes, for example, how many people are going to be on the website. Is he exerting subcontractors? Is he doing most of the wield himself? Find out what that crew experience "il go to" be like and make sure you provide for change dictates, because you’re always going to change your sentiment. And if you do that, you want to make sure there’s a mechanism for either lending or removing from the cost of the overall profession so you have not yet been astounds at the end.
LESLIE: And you know what, Vicky? Make sure you leave plenty of apartment for a guest room for Tom and I, so we can visit.
TOM: I’d love a good reason to go to Hawaii.
LESLIE: Who wouldn’t?
TOM: Well, if you spot a hit that’s happening in your wall or ceiling, does it spell deeper disturb? Not typically. And Leslie has the detailed information about how you are able to know, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, if you do notice a hit in your wall or in the ceiling, don’t panic. Although you’re going to feel concerned about it, you’ve got to realize that usually it’s a function of age and then, of course, movement of the house rather than a clue of a real structural problem.
Now, as it ages, the house is going to settle. A grassland patch or precisely spackle is going to fall out because it’s not filling into that hole and then nursing onto the gap. It’s too going to fall out as things are moving. So, the best way for a homeowner to fix it is to use a strong, perforated drywall tape.
Now, this videotape has large squares and it approximately looks a lot like a stiff netting. So, first, you want to apply this to bridge that divergence in the crack. Then go ahead and smooth a magnanimous sum of spackle or mud over it. And formerly that area is baked, you’ve got to sand it. You might have to do a pair of beds, sanding in between. You want to feather it out so it makes a nice, smooth transition from the new to the aged. And then is moving forward and repaint it.
And I dislike to say it but you might have to repaint the whole wall because, sometimes, time decorating a patch reaches that spot a bit more obvious. So, assess and experience. Try the small spot firstly and then probably travel paint that whole wall.
TOM: Yeah, that’s good admonition. Now, if you do be understood that a crack seems to be moving or is brand new- in other words, it wasn’t there last year and now it’s there and maybe it’s getting worse- that might be a different reason that’s compelling that. And when you be understood that, you might want to call in a pro, specially if it’s a groundwork crack.
Look, all residences have fissures of some sort. But the ones that are really active are the ones we want to try to stop.
Coming up next time on The Money Pit, we’re going to talk about how to turn your patio or porch into a sizzling kitchen gap. It’s not quite as expensive as you might think. Kevin O’Connor from This Old House is going to stop by with suggestion for making this amazing addition to being able to your hall or yard.
But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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