There are many things that are integral to a home or building, but one of the most important parts is the door. Doors allow you entry into the home or into a room inside. They also let you have privacy, security, and protection from the elements. But with so many different types of doors that you can use in your home, which offer the best combination of beauty, security and energy efficiency?
Whether you need an exterior front door or a small pocket door to your bathroom, there are many options to consider. From material to style, the type of door you choose will have a big impact on the way your home looks and functions.Single Doors
Single doors are probably one of the most types of doors installed. They can be interior or exterior, made of wood, fiberglass, steel, glass, or some kind of combination. They can be solid or hollow, and come in many different designs. The type of single door you choose for your home will be largely dictated by several factors.Function and Cost
Is this an interior door or an exterior door? Exterior doors are more likely to be heavy, solid, and secure. For that reason, you’re more likely to find an exterior door that’s made of steel or solid wood, rather than fiberglass, glass, or a hollow core. Because of their heavy nature, an exterior door is likely to cost between $500 and $2,000. The cost is primarily based on style; a steel door with a decorative glass insert will cost more than a plain steel door, for example.
Interior doors may be a lighter weight than an exterior door. It may have a hollow core, be made of wood or MDF, or it may be solid or glass. Typically, the more secure you want the area to be, the heavier the door is likely to be. For example, closet doors are more likely to be hollow than bathroom or bedroom doors. Since interior doors are lighter and not designed to offer security, they typically cost between $75 and $125. In this case, hollow MDF doors are on the lowest end of the spectrum, while solid wood interior doors are on the higher end.Architecture and Style
The architecture of your home will play a large role in the type of door, its style, and its material. For example, if you have an Arts and Crafts, or a Craftsman style home, your front door will be made of wood, and will likely have some inset glass panels at the top. On the other hand, if you have a Colonial, then paneled doors are the most common style, with solid wood or steel doors used on the exterior and wood or MDF doors used inside.
To best determine what types of doors will look good in your home, identify your architectural style, then look up the popular door styles for when it was built.Double Doors
Double doors are an interesting and very specific door style that is mostly seen in certain architectural styles. Double doors may also be interior or exterior and made of many different materials, as well as having many different styles.
What makes this type of door different, is that the two doors may both be working doors, or you may have a one “dummy” door and one working door. In this case, only one door actually opens and functions, but it gives you the illusion of a larger doorway. Like single doors, the type of double door you may get may depend on several other factors.Function and Cost
With many types of doors, cost varies widely. Double doors are less common than single doors, but you can often find them in both interior and exterior locations. For the exterior of the home, it’s most common to find the double door in two places; the front door in a large entryway, and a French-style double door for to open out onto patios or outdoor living areas. When it comes to the exterior, you’ll likely find that the front doors are more likely to be wood, and if you are using a double door, it’s more common to choose a highly decorative style. Leading to the patio or backyard, a double door is more likely to be made of glass.
The cost of an exterior double door is largely driven by material at this point. For example, a double steel door will cost around $2,500, while a double wood door will cost around $1,500. Adding glass to either door will raise the cost again by half, so around $3,750 for a steel double door with glass and around $2,750 for a wooden double door made of glass on average. Costs can go much higher if you add other decorative elements, and for certain types of security doors.
A double glass door, such as French doors has a different price point, at around $1,200. Keep in mind these are not as secure.
On the interior of the home, you’ll actually find that double doors can be used nearly anywhere that you have a wide space. For example, double doors on the interior of a home are most commonly found leading to dining rooms, master bedrooms, home offices, and home libraries.
Like exterior doors, interior double doors may be made of wood or they may be glass “French” doors. In both cases, it’s common to see a very elaborate double door, as the space the doors take up is larger, which leads to more area for decoration.
For this area, the cost of glass doors is around the same – $1,200. For wooden interior doors, costs start around $500, and go up from there the more decorative they become.
The most common architectural style to feature a double door is the Victorian. Nearly all Victorian style homes feature double doors in some way. This includes both the front door and interior doors as well.Sliding Doors
Many homes today also feature sliding doors. Sliding doors are ideal for spaces that have a lot of width, but not a lot of room for a door to swing.Function and Cost
In many cases, sliding doors are most commonly installed as an exterior door leading to a deck, patio, porch, or other outdoor living space. These doors are usually made of glass and are designed to give you a large, unimpeded view of the exterior, while at the same time providing you with an easy to access area. A basic sliding glass door will run around $300, but can increase to $700 or $900 if you opt for a full wall of glass, or special features like internal blinds.
Sliding types of doors can also be used inside, however. There are a few different types of interior sliding doors, and ways that you may use them. The most common is the decorative sliding door. Usually a double door and either decorative or paneled, these doors will slide along the walls, effectively turning one large room into two smaller areas when the doors are shut. These doors are most likely to be wood, but in areas where weight is an issue, they may also be made of fiberglass. These doors start at around $500 and go up to about $1,000 for most styles.Architecture and Style
The Barn door, a specific style of sliding door, is becoming increasingly popular as interior options, particularly in rustic-style homes. These doors may be reclaimed barnwood or new, and they have a rustic modern style that’s very appealing in some settings. The hardware for these doors is usually left exposed while more traditional sliding doors will have their hardware hidden.
For Victorian homes, you may find more ornate sliding doors with heavier panels and decorative carvings.Pocket Doors
A subset of the sliding door is the pocket door. This type of door is designed to slide into the wall when not in use, so that it can no longer be seen when open.Function and Cost
Pocket doors are best suited to small areas that cannot accommodate a door swing, such as Jack and Jill bathrooms that connect to bedrooms.
Pocket doors may be made of any material including wood, fiberglass, MDF, hollow core, or metal. Because they are designed to slide into the wall when not in use, they’re usually plainer in style than other types of sliding doors. Pocket doors are often plain in appearance, but because of the difficulty in install, you can expect to pay around $700 to have a pocket door put in your home.Architecture and Style
You’ll primarily find pocket doors in smaller homes, such as Bungalows. Rather than being part of the style, since the doors are often hidden, they rely more on function and operation within the space.Picking the Perfect Types of Doors for Your Home
The right type of door for a home will ultimately come down to many things. Style, architecture, location, material, and personal preference. Keep in mind that the cost to install doors does vary depending on style, as well as size and type, as does the cost of the doors themselves. The right door can be perfect finishing touch to any home exterior or interior, so be sure to find the right type of door for your project to get the look and function you’re after.
The post Best Types of Doors: Weatherproof Options for Security, Style and Energy Efficiency appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to sea-coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this fine spring era? We’re now to help you if it has something to do with your live. If "youre gonna have to" planning a remodel project, maybe an outdoor-living assignment, that has just grown by leaps and bounds. We know that about 40 percent of Americans are thinking about improving their outdoor opening the following spring and summer. If "youre gonna have to" in that bucket, pick up the phone and yield us a bawl. Perhaps you’re picturing about improving your lavatory or your kitchen? Wondering what the most recent developments is in expression of the most wonderful engineering in fixtures and faucets and cabinets to use? All great questions. We want to hear what you’re is currently working on. Announce us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or affix your question to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s present, if you’ve made a trip to your garbage drawer lately, you may have missed a seemingly innocuous cache of common household items that can potentially put your dwelling at major danger. We’re going to tell you about a simple storage blunder that has some rooms going up in flames, in only a bit.
LESLIE: And you might know that lumber floorings are super favourite. But today, the flooring marketplace is inundated with wood-look products and it obliges it hard to know whether or not you’re to buy the real thing. We’re going to sort out the phonies from the real transactions, just ahead.
TOM: Plus, if you’re ready to dig into some spring cleanup for your home’s exterior- perhaps your siding, your walkways, your driveways- and get rid of all that winter clay, a pressure washer is definitely one of the handiest implements to have around to accelerate that process along. We’re going to have a review on a super-affordable, brand-new Greenworks electric pressure washer that’s just out at Lowe’s.
LESLIE: But first, we want to help you with your spring dwelling decoration and home better schedules. So give us a entitle now in order to be allowed to help you get started to kick off this warm-weather season perfectly.
TOM: The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Let’s get to it.
LESLIE: Tony in Florida is on the line with some loud plumbing. Tell us what’s croaking on at your coin pit.
TONY: It’s in the walls. It seems like the clanking is going on in the walls. And I can’t get to the hoses because they’re hidden- they’re all are subject to the walls. So every time I applied the faucet on, red-hot or cold, bash, it’s one fling and that’s it. That’s what I get. And I’m just wondering, is there some easy, quick fix for something like that, you know?
TOM: Yeah. So does this happen, Tony, when you open and close the faucets? Is that when it’s worst?
TOM: Alright. That’s called “water hammer.” And what irrigate hammer is - you have to remember that spray is very heavy; it weighs, actually, 8 pounds per gallon. And so, as the water is traveling through the plumbing thread and you open or close a faucet, the inertia of that liquid precisely restrains moving. And it’ll sway the tube and that’s what shapes the banging clang. And of course, pipes transmit sound like crazy and so you’re coming that various kinds of chime to it.
So, what can you do? There’s two things that you can do. All the piping that you could possibly access- so that would be like in the vault or crawlspace or attic. Any region where you can see a hose, you require to contribute some additional strapping to the wall so that takes some of the go out of it.
The second thing that you can do is you can position- or have a plumber invest- something called a “water-hammer arrestor, ” which is, essentially, a leaf springs for a plumbing system. And it will take that inertia from the sea and assimilate it gradually so it doesn’t bang the pipe.
But what you’re describing is a very typical, very normal predicament in an elderly mansion. Generally, unless it’s really super-bad, it doesn’t cause damage. But it’s more of an annoyance than anything else.
Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Bonnie in California, welcome to The Money Pit. How is impossible to help you today?
BONNIE: We have a condo that we’ve- it’s been leased for 12 years. And when our renters moved out, we were going to sell it. And we pictured stains on the carpet and we thoughts , “Well, we’ll pull out the carpet, oust it and really decorate and cleaning process and gave it up for sale.”
BONNIE: Well, when we attracted the carpet back, the cement slab- it’s a cement slab, single-level condo, 1,600- approximately 1,700- square foot with a cement-slab storey. And where reference is plucked back the carpet, we found that it was very damp and there was that white, fuzzy various kinds of ferment or whatever they call it that comes up from the cement.
TOM: Efflorescence. Mm-hmm.
BONNIE: Mass of that. We snapped up all the flooring and thought, “Well, we’ll is moving forward and hire a contractor and have it all fixed and put new trash down.” And it didn’t run dry; it exactly was damp.
But in any case, this problem is not coming solved. We have- we don’t know exactly where to go from here. We want to figure out if there’s some way to seal that storey that is going to keep it from devastating the carpet and timber again and get it for sale. But fasten it so that it’s- so that we can say it’s fixed.
TOM: Alright. Well, here’s what I think is going on, located on your description. If you’ve got that much of a irrigate source that close to the concrete slab- concrete is unusually hydroscopic. I symbolize it has certainly sucks water like crazy. And so if the ground outside is saturated, that is clearly selected through the concrete into the interior and that’s why the flooring has been so wet. My concern is that this could develop, if it hasn’t already, into a mold problem.
The bad news for the condominium association is that if they’re responsible for such structures of this building, which would include the storey, this is their problem to repair , not your problem to fixture. And if I was admonishing them, I would tell them to stop calling contractors to check leaking ponds and start announcing professional engineers that can analyze the building and anatomy out exactly what’s going on and prescribe the proper mend. They’ve got to think big here, not suppose small. Because I think they have a lot of drawback, because it’s perhaps not you; you just happen to be the one that find it. But if your neighbors start pulling up carpet, they’re going to probably find the same thing.
All that you can do on the inside is certainly stop-gap. You can clean up the efflorescence, you are able to framed a masonry sealer on the storey. But the problem is that that concrete is going to continue to get wet, continuous efforts to get damp and eventually it’s going to back out into the unit. So, I think that you need to have a extremely serious sit-down with that condominium association.
BONNIE: Mm-hmm. OK.
TOM: Alright? Good luck, Bonnie.
BONNIE: Thank you very much.
TOM: Thank you for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breath and online at MoneyPit.com. Impart us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any programme. Just go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And exactly onward, of all the things floating in or around our garbage drawers, there’s one amazingly common item that can flare up and generate a major residence attack. We’ll tell you what it is, after this.
Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Leave us a call, right now, with your dwelling betterment question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it is possible find top-rated residence service pros and record appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Joe in Texas is looking to collect some rainwater. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
JOE: Alright. Well, we have a ranch near Stephenville, about an hour-and-a-half southwest of Dallas/ Fort Worth. And it can get reasonably arid out here. So, we have some sprinkle barrels- or some black, sizable casks- fixed up to our torrent gutters. And we’re trying to get wise to where it’s actual potable spray that we can use and drink in- time in our everyday, daily lives. So we were kind of wondering what type of filtration system to put on to run that water through and too how to keep the clutter from our ditches blowing in there.
TOM: Well, rainwater reaping is something that’s actually has been going on for centuries. And the committee is modern systems that are available to help you both muster the rainwater and sanctify it, because that’s the key and you want to make sure it’s safe.
A good home to start is RainHarvest.com. That’s an internet site for a company that has specialized in this area for numerous, many years. And they have everything from tiny, home-size organisations up to industrial-size methods. And they too have the specialty filters you asked about keeping the gunk out of the spray. There are special filters to keep out the needles and the tree drop and things like that from going down in there.
So it sounds like you’re kind of well on your practice but what you’re going to need to pick up is a purification system. And that’s a good locate to start: RainHarvest.com.
LESLIE: You know, another good locate that’s out there is HarvestH2O.com. A fortune of articles on there about filtration, purification, some products. Good schedule to resources and founders, as well, there.
JOE: Alright. Thank you.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Frieda from Ohio is on the route with The Money Pit. How is impossible to help you today?
FRIEDA: Hi. My Amana Radarange microwave, it’s attached above my stave. And on the bottom, the down flame that shines down onto the stove, the light bulbs in that deter burning out. And I have to replace them about once a few months and they’re going expensive.
TOM: What kind of light bulb are you working? Simply a regular incandescent?
FRIEDA: It’s like the R11, the little contraption bulb? Forty watt?
TOM: And is this a moderately new problem, this once-a-month burnout, or has it been going on for a long, long time?
FRIEDA: It’s getting worse. We’ve had the microwave in here- it’s maybe about 16 years old or- accord or take.
TOM: Yeah, that doesn’t genuinely owe you any fund. That’s fairly aged for a microwave device. You’ve pretty much reached the end of a normal life cycle. In happening, I’m kind of surprised it lasted that long, because it’s been my experience that the microwave ovens that are prepared above compass don’t last nearly as long as a countertop microwave. Because the additional hot from all that prepare has the effect of kind of outfit on those components.
Typically, when you get a bulb that burns out instantly, it’s either because you have a loose alliance, you have a loose floor or "youve got a problem" with the voltage that’s to move in there.
Sometimes, depending on what’s happening with the two power companies, you are able to coming, say, more than 120 volts. You might be going 125 or 130 volts, sometimes, because there could be something that is bad down the line with the power supply- the high quality of its power supply. So if you have extra volts going into those lamps, that is one of the first things that tends to show it. It’s kind of like the canary in the coal quarry. When the illuminates start to go- burn out routinely- like that, it could be an issue with the voltage.
So, have you been thinking about a newly microwave?
FRIEDA: Not really.
TOM: What I would suggest is at this point, you really need to have the voltage tested. So I would call the practicality busines and ask them to rhythm the voltage going into your house and see if it’s- let’s eliminate that as a possibility.
If that is OK, I would- the second thing I would check is the plug that it’s actually plugged into. I’d check the outlet to make sure it’s properly grounded. And if it’s accurately footed, then I think you’ve exhausted the two things that are the easiest to reparation and at that point, you might want to think it is right ousting the microwave.
FRIEDA: Alright. That sounds good.
TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, we’ve all done it: trying to clean up the house, come nonsense out of perception, we’ve shoved it to drawers and into closets. But there’s an opportunity that when you straighten up, you’re too putting your home and their own families at serious risk.
LESLIE: That’s right. You know, too often you’ve got stuff sitting around your live that can go up in flames if it acre in the wrong neighbourhood, like too close to heat beginnings. But here are some do and don’ts that will help you retain to keep everybody safe at home.
First of all, never use your home’s furnace and water heater region for extra storage. These areas are often small and accumulating anything in them, genuinely, is inadvisable.
TOM: Now, the National Fire Protection Association has a recommendation for this. They say nothing combustible should be within 3 foot of any heating equipment. Now, that includes rags, half-empty paint cans, sodden clothes you’re drying out and all that random nonsense you may have accumulated near your hot-water heater right now.
LESLIE: Yeah. And be talking about flammable, there also have been a lot of reports of room burns starting when 9-volt artilleries come into contact with everyday metallic objectives, like a gem clip or a thumbtack. Even a battery that you might have thought was dead or wasn’t sure so you really propelled it in that junk drawer, that’s a dreadful idea.
TOM: If the terminals on that battery are cross-connected- like, say, you have a pair of scissors in the clutter drawer or the paper clip- if that artillery be coming back linked with both sides of that, it could potentially spark. And of course, if there is some newspaper in there, you’ve got sparking and well, you could figure the remain out. It’s not good.
So, to be safe, before you toss any batteries into a drawer, what you can do is applied some strip over the battery’s terminals. A little segment of electrical tape works well. And this will save those electrical present-days in their proper target and retain you and your mansion safe.
LESLIE: Diane in New Jersey, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
DIANE: We live in New Jersey. And my dad had the Pennsylvania Dutch come all the way to New Jersey. And they put up a beautiful gambrel pole barn with that neat chassis to it.
DIANE: But I showed the committee is little rafters along the edge. And even though they have little punctures in their own homes, every year the floats come in through there and I have hundreds, all dead bad guys, at the end of time. And I don’t know what I could do to stop that problem.
TOM: So, you have- this is a barn that you have and it’s a fairly open barn? I mean you’re not going to keep the flies out of the barn. You can’t make it that tight because by the nature of the building, it’s fairly drafty, chastise?
DIANE: Well, actually, my dad- we never had any swine near stallings but he- it’s completely closed all the time. It’s got two electrical door at either resolve and a opening, so it is contained. The only room they’re getting in is through- under the edges of the ceiling, there’s a- it looks like a- I don’t know. You know the sewers, kind of? It looks like troughs- trough situation. And there’s an opening there and the sunlight and the air depart through, which I guess you need for animals. But we’re not working it for animals.
TOM: So at the apartment margin, the rafters, does it have a complete soffit? Is it constructed so that you have a flat, showed arena underneath it? Or is it merely wide open?
DIANE: No. There is a showed area. They have looked at it closely. And it appears to have- and it’s get little pits in it big enough for flies.
TOM: So they’re not getting in this soffit range where you’re suspecting.
DIANE: I don’t know. I thought they were coming through those holes.
TOM: Yeah. But if they’re that small-minded, they’re not coming in. Look, normally, soffit ventilation is too small for bugs to get into. So they’re likely coming in a different way. Do you have a crest vent at the pinnacle?
DIANE: Actually it’s just for looks because when I- there is a staircase that goes up to the top of the barn and there’s no openings in the roof.
TOM: Diane, if you’re trying to keep these barn moves out of the barn, there’s genuinely two ways to approaching this. Mechanical, which is what we’re talking about to its implementation of making sure that you have screening wherever it’s required. This would include any volcanoes, gable express, cupola vents, soffit shows and the like. And of course, you mentioned that it has sizable entrances that generally remain closed. I suspect there’s not much you can do right there.
But the second technique is chemical. And the committee is professional pesticides that are designed specifically to deal with these wings. There’s generally some formulation of pyrethrin that essentially is sprayed inside the barn to control these insect populations. And in fact, in some cases where you actually have cattle, the committee is formulations that can also be applied to the livestock without harming them.
So, I would do two things: I would made to ensure that I examine the barn very carefully for any additional openings where these controls can get in; and then I would consult a pest-management professional for an appropriate be applied in pesticide, because you have such a severe problem. I don’t think this is anything you’re going to be able to handle with, say, a most natural, smaller-scale approaching like I might give you for your home. In this case, I think you need to choose the right make and have it applied accurately. And when done, carried out in accordance with all the label attitudes, I think it is a relatively safe thing to do.
I hope that helps you out. Thank you so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Jennifer in Texas is on the line and requirement some cure with a flooring projection. Tell us about it.
JENNIFER: We are strategy on laying hardwood in our home. We have a two-story residence and I’m wanting to know if it is better to lay each plank the same tack, upstairs and downstairs, or is impossible to permutation it up?
TOM: Generally speaking, you want to go in the long counseling of the chamber. So in other words, you miss the boards to be parallel to the longest wall. I don’t- I would not swap that up because it’s going to look odd, don’t you think?
LESLIE: Yeah. It moves the apartment seem bigger.
JENNIFER: Oh, OK.
TOM: Now, what kind of hardwood storeys are you putting down, Jennifer? Are they prefinished hardwood floorings?
JENNIFER: Yeah, it’s the snap-and-lock.
TOM: OK. So it’s an engineered floor. So, make sure they’re parallel to the longest wall. And remember, nothing is square about a house.
TOM: So, bar the center of the office as determined by the hub place between the walls. And figure it out so you don’t end up with a flake of hardwood flooring on the end.
JENNIFER: OK. Thank you.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Precisely onward, a brand-new examination says that two-thirds of Americans wish lumber storeys. But today, the flooring grocery is flooded with wood-look commodities and which are in a position to make it super hard to know whether or not you’re purchasing the real thing. We’re going to sort out the impostor from the real bargains, in time a bit.
TOM: Concluding good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Well, according to new investigate by the National Wood Flooring Association, two-thirds of U.S. homeowners say they would choose grove floorings for their fantasy dwelling. But the flooring grocery is inundated with wood-look products, building it tough to be seen whether you’re purchasing the real thing or not.
LESLIE: That’s right. The NWFA has a brand-new initiative announced “Real Wood. Real Life.” to clear up the disorder. With us to talk about that is Brett Miller, the vice president of education and certification.
BRETT: Hello. I acknowledge being on.
TOM: So, there are an dreadful batch of alternatives to real wood floor today. And there’s reasons for it. Some of it’s less expensive, easier to set. But for those that really do want the seek of real timber, what kind of resources are available for them to make sure they’re picking the best floorings for their special life?
BRETT: As you told me, there is a lot makes that are out there today resembling the watch of lumber. And they’re doing- a lot of these products are doing such a great profession that it’s difficult- even for wood people, in some situations- to be able to identify the difference.
As you mentioned, we have recently propelled a “Real Wood. Real Life.” expedition, which is designed to reach the consumer and allow the interests of consumers to suitably choose and identify what grove floor works for their specific situation.
TOM: What kinds of things do you need to consider when choosing your grove storey? There are different hardness, for example, of every kind of wood species.
BRETT: That’s correct. And every lifestyle is a little bit different. Every dwelling is a little bit different. And every area that has wood can even be a little bit different.
So, as you told me, wood categories is big. The hardness of the wood runs across the board, across the hardwoods and the softwoods within the wood-flooring industry. The slash of the lumber- the lane it’s cut out of the tree- can also be used alter the durability and the hardness and how it reacts to ordinary, daily life as well as the finishes that are used on the wood.
Today, we’re viewing a lot of natural, probing oils that really soak into the grove fibers themselves and harden from inside. Easy to maintain but a different seem. And beings that are used to a plastic-type coating, like a urethane finishing over the top, it’s been a bit of a read bow in how live their lives those types of floors, in terms of how durable they can be and how they react to everyday life.
LESLIE: And I make the durability is something really important to talk about, because a lot of beings sort of conceive, “Oh, if I get a real grove floor, there’s so much maintenance. How durable is it disappearing to be? I have a very busy family. We have vast pets.” How are you able sort of clear up the fluster as to what the soundnes elevation is to an actual wood floor?
BRETT: And that’s a great question and I recall that’s one that - you are familiar, we were at the Builders’ Show recently. And one of our banners that we put up, that we came out with for this campaign, demonstrated the dog sitting on a lumber floor. And one of the keys is that babies are great on grove floors. And the perspective that when a floor scratches, it’s a bad thing is one that our the businesses and genuinely, every floor covering in the industry lots with. Wear and tear and durability.
One of the things that we’ve certainly wanted to focus on within this campaign is the fact that even if you get a dog scratch or even if you get any sort of wear and tear on that timber floor, it’s a part of the histories of that storey. Wood storeys can last for hundreds of years. And in fact, in Europe, there’s floors that are over 500 years old the hell is original floors to the facilities they’re in. When maintained properly and when understood that wear of a grove storey is really the patina and the age and the elegance of that wood flooring- is part and parcel of the mindset that we’re trying to change.
TOM: Every scratch tells a storey. It’s part of the charm, Leslie.
LESLIE: No, I intend I agree with it.
TOM: Brett, when you talk about wood, are we talking exclusively about solid grove? What about engineered hardwood? Is that also what you guys are considering grove flooring in this campaign?
BRETT: About a year ago, there were some produces that "re coming out" into the marketplace being touted as grove storeys, when all they were was they may have contained wood pulp or lumber composites but they had goods-for-nothing to do with real wood. So it impelled us, as an industry, to come out and define what a real grove storey is. And as silly as we thought that was up front, it turned out to be a very difficult task. And we pulled together some of our members to define what a real wood floor is.
And within that interpretation, the self-evident is solid-wood flooring. It’s a piece of lumber from top to bottom, all the nature through the traditional 3/4 -inch solid section of wood flooring. An engineered-wood storey is also a real-wood storey. Engineered-wood flooring is real from top to bottom but made of several veneers. So the top bed would be whatever the category is and then then core and the endorsement is also made of wood. And then we came out with a third list that helps separate those commodities that may have real lumber on top but may be made of a composite substance below. So the core and the backing- who are knowledgeable about?- in 10, 15 times, may be made out of titanium or something funny like that. But at the end of the day, if it’s real timber on the top, it’s a real grove floor.
LESLIE: Now, do you think that for somebody who’s looking to buy a dwelling, is there a higher recognized significance in a house that has real lumber floorings?
BRETT: Topic of information, with some of the results of the study that we’ve done, as well as the real-estate manufacture, virtually 80 percent of homeowners imagine lumber storeys supplement the highest value to a residence over any other type of floor covering. It has been proven that homes with timber floors do sell faster and for more money than residences without. Real-estate agents indicate that an identical dwelling with timber floors can sell for up to 10 percentage more than a home across the street without lumber floors.
LESLIE: That’s a lot of money.
BRETT: It is. It can be. And one of the most important costs of wood storeys- and this being real lumber storeys- is that the lifespan of that floor can readily surpassed even the life of the residence, in a lot of situations.
TOM: We’re talking to Brett Miller. He’s the weaknes chairman of education and certification for the National Wood Flooring Association.
Brett, before we let you go, one of the questions we get asked very often now on the depict has to do with cleansing floorings. If you do have a real wood storey and you’re concerned about not marring it, what is the best mode to cleanse a lumber flooring? What kinds of materials do you use? Do you have to be careful about how much moisture is involved? Tell us.
BRETT: Yes. Likely one of the most challenging things our manufacture deals with is proper maintenance on wood storeys. The best thing to do for a grove floor is to keep grunge and grime off of the storey. And that can happen just simply by embroiling, dust mop or vacuuming but abusing the vacuum cleaner on a bare-floor setting.
What we insure a lot of is people utilizing concoctions that add a sheen or a polish or something to that wood-floor finish and it can ultimately damage that finish. And it also scuffs and blemishes very easily. It’s not the same as a wood-floor finish.
We likewise see issues with beings working steam to clean floorings and even the aged, traditional swabbing the floor or expending wet cleans on those wood floors.
BRETT: So , no moisture is really necessary. The best cleanup is just to stop grease and junk swept off that floor finish. Because as soon as you walk across that dirt it, in essence, turns into sandpaper on the bottom of your shoes.
TOM: Makes sense.
Brett Miller, the vice president of education and certification for the National Wood Flooring Association, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
If you’d like more information, you are able to see their website at NWFA.org.
BRETT: And thank you, guys, so much better for having me on. I actually appreciate it.
LESLIE: Hey, are you wondering what supremacy implement is the most helpful for your spring cleansing? Well, our election, for sure, goes to the pressure washer. We’re going to share tips-off on a new representation that’s affordable and effective, next.
TOM: Becoming good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pay us a see, right now, with your residence better assignment. We want to hear about the project that you’re working on for in or outside your home. Are you planning a floor or a porch? Are you planning to improve your lawn and your countryside? Perhaps you’re building a boulder wall in the back of your house to kind of held up some earth, perform some more space, eliminate some maybe some soggy homes. Perhaps you’re doing a kitchen or a shower. Perhaps you’d like to get organized with those wardrobes. Whatever you’re working on, slither it over to our to-do schedule. We’ll give you some help by announced us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
And 888 -MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your dwelling projection before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros, for free.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Sparky in Georgia on the line with, fittingly, an electrical question. What can we do for you?
SPARKY: Hi. I’m in a prewired residence that has RG59 coaxial cable coming into each room. I need to supplant that now with RG6, which is a thicker coaxial cable. What is the best acces of going through to change all those?
TOM: Well, generally, whenever you want to rewire anything in the members of this house, it doesn’t ever make sense to remove what’s there. What you’ll generally do is cut it back. And you’ll really virtually - you’re going to run the brand-new cable as if you were putting it in for the first time. Of course, because the home is previously up, it’s tricky to do this to run it through walls and substance but you are able to expend cable serpents to do this. And sometimes, if the cable is loose in the wall, you can actually attach the new cable to the old-time cable and draw it through at the same time.
Sometimes you can get away with that but it basically makes a lot of skill to run brand-new wires in a house that’s previously up. And that’s fairly much the behavior you do it. The reaction is: any lane you can. So, if your cable is loose and you are able to pull one finish up and confine the other culminate to it so that you’re various kinds of plucking it all the action through, you do that. If you can’t do that because it’s nailed in place, then what you might do is just sort of snip off the ends, tuck it apart in the wall and range a brand-new cable next to it. But basically, it’s a bit of a knotty errand and you try to get wise done any way you can.
SPARKY: I gotcha. Highly good. You’ve been helpful. Thank you very much.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, we’re quickly approaching the spring-cleaning season. I mean we’re in it. You might be just diving into your spring-cleaning season or you could be spreading it out over the entire season. Whatever "you were doin ", let’s talk about a really helpful implement to have and that is the pressure washer. It surely can speed up that process particularly, particularly quickly.
Now, Greenworks has a new, 1,800 -PSI electrical pressure washer on world markets now. It’s super convenient to use and it’s got a heap of very helpful features.
TOM: Yep. It’s got a 13 -amp motor and it delivers 1.1 gallons of liquid a instant. So that’s actually a lot of emptying power. It too comes with five quick-connect nozzles, including the Turbo Nozzle. I have this concoction and that is my go-to for pretty much all the jobs around my house, whether I’m cleansing the sidewalk or shelling some cover off maybe an old-fashioned radiator or even scavenging my vehicle. I enjoy having all of those nozzles at the ready, because they’re just so easy to switch in and out of each one to do exactly exactly what you need to do.
LESLIE: You know, what we also like is that when this entire pressure washer was designed, it’s been designed so that everything it is necessary to is stored on board, like the spray gun, the superpower cord, all of the tips. So it’s got everything you need right within reach and "youve never" have to run back to the molt or the garage. And it also has an on-board soap tank, also, which sees it really easy to add the detergent.
TOM: Yep. And it’s especially useful for campaigns like cleansing your driveway or your floor or your walkways or your siding or even your car.
I was reading some evaluations, more, and people are just affection this concoction. You’re going to find it for the everyday premium of just 169 at your local Lowe’s home improvement store. So, if you’d like something that can really spruce up your springtime clean, check out the brand-new Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Electric Pressure Washer at Lowe’s.
LESLIE: Now we’re heading over to Virginia where Margaret has a question about a bathtub. Tell us what’s going on.
MARGARET: We have an aged, cast-iron bathtub and it’s real rusty in distinguishes. And I’m wondering what we could do to restore it.
LESLIE: Now, when you say real rusty in distinguishes, are we talking about large-scale places or are we talking about tiny, little ones from a chipping now and there?
MARGARET: No. We’re is speaking to big-hearted blots because the sea- it was not good sea when we first moved here. And so it had a lot of wear and tear on it about 40 years before we moved here. And we’ve been living here, probably, about 45 times, so ...
TOM: So your bathtub is virtually 100 years old, huh?
TOM: Yeah. Well, inspection, it dished the members of this house well. It’s not going to last forever. It needs to be reglazed at this point. And I’ve had some know-how with folks that have tried to reglaze these bathtubs inside the house. And it can be done but it’s an awfully sloppy and intensive errand. And unless it’s done professionally, it doesn’t seem to last-place very long. There are home reglazing gears. Rust-Oleum shapes one that’s for bathtub and tile but I wouldn’t expect it to last all that long.
The best nature to do this is to have the bathtub made out and reglazed. But if you’re going to do now all that, you are able to as well replace it and not only have that- not just not have that reglazed unless it’s peculiarly beautiful. I contemplate those are your options. It’s not easy to do a touch-up to something like this when it’s just got so- it’s got almost 100 years of wear and tear on it.
MARGARET: Oh. Yes, yes. OK. That was my question. I appreciate that.
TOM: Regrettably, Margaret, there’s no easy acces to remove 100 years of wear and tear on that tub and so you’re probably better off simply replacing it.
LESLIE: Hey, are you looking for some brand-new pillow? Well, you might be surprised at the prices. Before you decline a boatload of bucks on expensive expanses, make sure you know which sheets are worth the extra money for those working additional Zs. We’re going to tell you how, after this.
TOM: Reaching good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Here to help you with your residence better projects. Help yourself firstly by calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT being submitted by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a occupation. Use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to identify what others paid for a same job, all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: While you’re online, upright your questions to The Money Pit and Tom and I will get back to you real quick. Right here, we’ve got one from Marie who writes: “A neighbor’s kid wrote on my barricade with permanent marker and I want to get rid of the mess before the nicer climate hits. Any ideas for removing it? ”
Well, if you’ve got a vinyl fence, I say Magical Eraser. And you’re luck; you get off easy.
TOM: Yeah. Or WD-4 0 will break down those markers and take them off. Just make sure you rinse it real good. But listen, if it’s a wood barrier, there’s no way you’re going to get it off; it’s soaked into the wood. So, what is necessary do is prime it and draw it. Not only paint but frame primer on it first. Otherwise, that marker will sort of bleed right through and you’ll be reminded of that stinking kid all summer long.
LESLIE: Hopefully, it doesn’t say anything too offensive.
TOM: Well, busy schedules make most of us have to fight hard to putting in place the smartphone and shut the laptop and psyche on off to bed. And formerly we get there, we need the most wonderful sleep we can possibly get. Leslie has the details enabling you to do merely that, in today’s copy of Leslie’s Last-place Word.
And Leslie, this is all about the pillow, right? I planned not all sheets are created equal.
LESLIE: That really is true. But first of all, my opinion: nothing is better than fresh, clean-living expanses on the couch. It always feels so ...
TOM: Cleanliness comes first, then the type of sheets second.
LESLIE: But it ever feels so wonderful when you’ve really changed the sheets and you climb right into your fresh bed.
But before you do that, let’s think it is right the all sorts of membranes, how much "youre supposed to" invest. Because I mull a lot of people get very surprised when they think it is right comfort quilt, thread tallies, fabric types. You could move up and down the alley at the dwelling storages and precisely really be completely overwhelmed. So, before you decline those dollars, know exactly what each type offers and what their detriments are.
Now, first and foremost, bamboo membranes. You maybe assure them around. They aren’t just soft, they’re super soft. You can actually compare them to cashmere. And they’re is going to be softer the longer that you keep them. But if they’re from China- and most of the bamboo expanses are- there’s an opportunity that they come from an uncertified mill. So, skip bamboo sheets if all of this uncertainty about where they are from is going to keep you awake at night.
Another option is organic, Egyptian cotton membranes. These are super sought after and genuinely, with good reason. They’re soft, durable, breathable. They’re good for anyone who gets warm in the middle of the night. But if you adore the seeing of a crispy bed, you want to pass on the Egyptian cotton. It’s going to wrinkle easily and it kind of ever performs the bed looks a lot like it’s a little messy. So, if you’re a stickler for having everything nice and nifty and folded straighten, that’s not the membrane for you.
Now, for luxury expanses, fostered silk sheets are the ultimate in softness. But even if you can afford to splurge on this expensive bedding, the long-term expense there might be more than you bargained for. Silk sheets are readily injured if you’ve went jagged toenails, bumpy feet, fingernails, rough skin on your shoulders. And forget about working your washer and dryer to clean them. You have to hand-wash them or dry-clean them and then air-dry them. And that is something I do not want to deal with when it is necessary to my bedding.
So I always go for a high thread-count cotton. I look for something that feels good that’s going to wear well. And following the conclusion of the day, again, a delightful, crispy, clean-living bed is fantastic.
TOM: Good advice.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time, washers and dryers. You know, those are two gadgets that get a pretty serious exercising in the majority dwellings, specially if you’ve got young kids. And while they are generally don’t necessary a lot of upkeep, they do need some upkeep if you’d like them to keep working safely and effectively. We’ll have tips on how to do precisely that, on the very next copy of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No parcel of this record or audio datum may be reproduced in any format without the say written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc .)