An outdoor bar is a great focal point of any backyard patio and ideal for entertaining throughout the year. The bar can be a simple design or as elaborate as you can imagine. Even with a built-in refrigerator, a BBQ Grill, shelves and even a sink, but either way, it can be customized to fit your specific needs. The construction process is quick and easy for even the most novice do-it-yourselfer. The base is constructed using a simple dry stack block process with an application of QUIKRETE QUIKWall to give it a beautiful stucco finish.
QUIKRETE QUIKWall is a special, fiberglass reinforced stucco that is simply troweled over the surface of a dry-stack block wall… QUIKWall can create beautiful stucco surfaces that are stronger and faster to build than traditional block and mortar construction. The bar countertop is made of concrete using QUIKRETE Countertop Mix and melamine forms.
Before you get started, make sure your base slab is solid and level.If you need to build a pad for the outdoor bar. High Strength QUIKRETE 5000 is the recommended product for slab construction…because of its high strength and rapid strength gain. To get started, it is important to stage the first course of block and snap a chalk line on each side of the block wall as a reference line to ensure that your corners are square and your base walls are straight. Also check to make sure the base course is level.
If the base slab is not level, remove the blocks and lay a ½ inch bed of QUIKWall under each block on the slab. This will help keep the first course level if there are imperfections or a slope in your concrete base. For this application, the QUIKWall mix should be workable but firm enough to support the weight of the first course.Because there are no mortar joints in this construction technique, your first course of block will determine if your base will be level and square.
Now, set your bottom course; check your alignment and level every 3 to 4 blocks. Once your first course is set, dry-stack the remaining block in a running bond pattern to the desired height. All corners should use an interlocking pattern. QUIKWall can be successfully mixed by hand or machine. The size of your project will often determine which method you choose.
Hand mixing can be done in a mortar tub or wheelbarrow with a mixing hoe and is suited for small projects. Always wear rubber gloves and safety glasses, when working with cement-based materials. Each 50 pound bag of QUIKWall will require about a gallon of water. Additional water can be added in small amounts to achieve a workable mix. Adding liquid cement color to standard white or gray QUIKWall can add a decorative stucco finish.
One 10 oz. bottle of QUIKRETE Liquid Cement Color will color up to two pounds of 50 pound QUIKWall. To achieve a consistent color throughout the mix, the Liquid Cement Color should be blended into the mixing water, before adding it to the mix. Using the same water-to-color ratio will help maintain color uniformity from batch to batch. This is especially important when working on large areas. The proper consistency is achieved when the wet QUIKWall will “hang” on a trowel held at a 90’ angle.
Before applying QUIKWall, thoroughly dampen the block wall with water; dampening the block will make the mix easier to finish and will help prevent inconsistent color and cracking, especially in hot temperatures. Apply a consistent 1/8 to ¼ inch coat of QUIKWall to both sides of the block. Use a square finishing trowel held at a 45 degree angle and work from the bottom of the wall to the top.
One 50 pound bag of QUIKWall will cover approximately 50 square feet at 1/8 inch thick. The coverage may vary based on the texture and thickness of the QUIKWall application. After applying QUIKWall to the base, water cure the entire surface with a fine water mist. This is especially important for color consistency and to prevent surface cracking.
Once your base is complete, confirm the measurements for the concrete countertop. Concrete is a very durable, but heavy building material; so it is best to build the countertop in manageable sections. For example, a 2 foot by 3 foot countertop, 2 inches thick will weigh about 145 lbs. In addition, if your countertop sections are 4 feet in length or less, steel reinforcement is not necessary.
The best way to achieve a dense, smooth surface for your concrete countertops is to use a precast method. In a precast process, the countertops are poured in forms constructed from ¾ inch melamine – coated particleboard. Cut 2 inch strips of melamine for the form sides to create a 2 inch thick concrete countertop. Drill pilot holes every 6 inches along the length of the side forms and attach the side forms to the base using 2 ½ inch deck screws.
Use a carpenter’s square to make sure all corners are square. Then run a thin bead of silicone caulk in all form seams and smooth with a fingertip. This will give the countertop a smooth edge. Now the form is ready for the countertop mix. Countertop Mix can be mixed using a standard drum mixer, or in a 5 gallon pail with a ½ inch drill mixer and mixer blade. QUIKRETE Countertop Mix is designed specifically for countertops… the high density, high strength concrete mix can be removed from the forms in just 18 hours and achieves over 6000 PSI in compressive in 28 days.
Another characteristic that makes Countertop mix unique is that it requires very little mechanical vibration to consolidate and densify the mix, which minimizes voids and helps provide a smooth surface. Countertop Mix is available in two base colors: gray and tint base white. Gray can be used for a natural gray concrete color and to achieve darker colors with the addition of liquid or dry pigments. Tint base white is designed to be used with pigments to achieve a lighter color range.
The concrete should be mixed for a minimum of 5 minutes until the desired consistency is achieved. The mix is formulated to perform equally well in a plastic or flowable consistency. To give the countertop an integral color, liquid cement color can be added to the mixing water before it is added to the mixer. After mixing, fill the form, making sure the mix is consolidated into the corners of the form. Complete the pour in two equal “lifts” about 1 inch deep.
Work from the bottom-up rather than side-to-side. This will minimize any surface color variations. If necessary, structural steel should be embedded after applying the first lift. Then continue placing the mix, overfilling the form slightly. Then using a metal straight edge, screed the surface in a sawing motion. You will want to do this in both directions several times. Screeding will level what will be the underside of the countertop.
After screeding, use a rubber mallet to vibrate the form to consolidate the mix and remove air voids that would cause surface imperfections. Another option is to use a vibrating palm sander. Once the finishing process is completed cover the forms with plastic sheeting and allow to stand undisturbed for 18 hours. After the forms are removed, flip the countertop and use fine sandpaper to smooth edges and remove imperfections.
Every countertop contains natural surface variations that make each countertop truly unique, the countertop’s appearance can be enhanced with surface treatments such as staining and sealing. QUIKRETE® Acrylic High Gloss Sealer – Wet Look is a water-based, high-gloss, clear acrylic sealer designed to seal concrete surfaces from water, dirt, oils, and grease, and to enhance the natural surface color.
Wet-Look Sealer can be applied after the concrete has cured in about 28 days. To guarantee a proper seal, wipe down the countertop surface, before applying the Wet Look Sealer. This is necessary to remove any dirt or dust that may have adhered, during the 28 day curing process. Once the surface has been cleared of any particulate matter, apply QUIKRETE Acrylic High Gloss Sealer. The wet look sealer can be applied with a roller or a brush.
When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.
Step 1 Stage the first course of block, on top of solid, level concrete slab.
QUIK-Tip: If you need to build a pad for the outdoor bar, use QUIKRETE 5000
Step 2 Snap a chalk line on each side of the intended block wall, to make sure the corners are square and the wall is straight.
Step 3 Set the first course, against the chalk line.
QUIK-Tip: Make sure the first course is level by checking every third or fourth block.
Step 4 Once the first course is set, dry stack the remaining block in a running bond pattern, making sure the corners are interlocking.
Step 5 Mix the necessary amount of QUIKWALL, following the directions on the bag.
QUIK-Tip: The mix is the right consistency when the stucco will hang from a trowel at a 45 degree angle.
Step 6 Dampen the block with water using a garden sprayer.
Step 7 Apply the stucco at 1/8” to ¼” thickness using a square trowel, starting from the bottom and working up the block wall.
Step 8 Once the stucco is applied to the entire base, water cure with a fine mist to prevent cracking.
Step 9 Re-confirm the dimension for the countertop by measuring the top of the block base.
Step 10 Build forms from ¾” melamine by screwing four 2” strips to a base sheet, according to the countertop dimensions.
QUIK-Tip: Concrete is heavy, so use multiple forms that don’t exceed 2’ x 3’ and 2” thick to manage larger countertop projects.
Step 11 Squirt a bead of silicone caulk in the seams of the forms, and smooth with a caulk tool or fingertip to give the countertop a smooth edge. Remove any excess.
Step 12 Mix QUIKRETE Countertop Mix, following the directions on the bag, and pour into the forms in two 1” layers. If necessary, place metal rebar or wire mesh between the two layers for added strength.
QUIK-Tip: QUIKRETE Liquid Cement Color can be added to the fiber-glass reinforced stucco and/or the concrete countertop mix to give the outdoor bar more decorative flair.
Step 13 Over fill the forms slightly, before pulling a 2×4 in a sawing motion over the surface several times each direction.
Step 14 Consolidate the mix, and remove air voids by tapping the forms with a rubber mallet or vibrating with an orbital sander without the pad.
Step 15 Let cure for at least 18 hours, before removing the forms.
Step 16 Once each countertop section us removed from the form, smooth the edges with fine sandpaper.
Step 17 Place, as desired, on newly formed bar base.
Step 18 After the countertop mix has cured the full 28 days, a sealer can be applied with a roller or brush to protect the surface from dirt, oil, grease and other unwanted stains.
The post How to Build an Outdoor Bar with Concrete Block | Video appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re here to help you with your residence improvement projects, your decor quagmires. Whatever is on your to-do list, give us a call right now. We’ll help you get that job done. The crowd is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, this spring, billions of Americans is likely to be putting their residence on world markets. But the majority of members of them are not even going to think about how they’ll move all their stuff until after their room dumps, which in fact is too late to make a smart decision. So we’re going to have some tips-off, this hour, to help you save meter, hassle and cash.
LESLIE: And have you ever acknowledged a cranny in a wall over your groundwork and wondered if it’s something that you should be am concerned about or not? Well, Tom Silva from This Old-time House is stopping by with tips on how is to determine whether a fracture is something that needs attention or precisely a normal part of your home that’s settling in.
TOM: And you might think that you’re done with all that spring cleansing but your residence actually might be dirtier than you think. We’ll share the areas more often missed by even "the worlds largest" thorough cleaners, including some that can actually become health hazards.
LESLIE: But first, we want to know what you are working on this spring season. Everybody is gearing up towards Memorial Day and it’s still early in the spring time of year. So, what can we help you with? What are you working on? I know I’m about to do a big project in my garden. You can tell; all my reactions are kicking in, which is why I sound like this. This is what happens when you’re digging in your yard for a week at a time. You purpose up seeming like this from all the pollen.
So what can we do to help you? Give us a summon. We want to lend you a hand.
TOM: The amount is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Plus, if you do give us a bawl, we’ve went copies of our bible, My house, My Money Pit, going out to five listeners who summon or pole their question. To are contributing to get a start on those spring projects, generate us a call right now. That number, again: 888-666-3974.
Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Charles in Ohio is on the line and are addressed by some puppies that are ready to really eat away at the yard. What’s going on?
CHARLES: I was wondering if there’s an saving nature to fix my trouble I’m having in my backyard. I have a fence that’s square-shaped in the back of my ground, if you count the back of the house. I have two bird-dogs and they like to run from one surface of the house to the other, leaving a dirt direction- hardened, broiled road- from one side of the house to the other. And I’m looking for a path to fix that that would be easy on my pocketbook.
TOM: OK. So, can we control the dogs so that they won’t wear it out again if we reinstate the lawn?
CHARLES: No. The dogs, they- any time they see anything come across in front of our residence, they like to run from one slope to the other. So without chaining them up, which defeats the purpose of our fence, we like to let them move free.
TOM: You know what? A couple of things come to mind, one of which is that the kind of grass that "youve had" there- I was thinking, Leslie, that something like a zoysia grass might be a little bit tougher.
LESLIE: It is very, particularly durable.
Now, the other thing I was thinking- is this directly in the front of your house or is it on the side of your home?
CHARLES: The barrier is currently under back of the house, so mostly it’s a big smiley face from the left side of the house to the right side because they run around the- my deck.
LESLIE: I was going to say if there’s a lane to make a slate pathway or some sort of stone that plainly would change the seek of the yard itself but would give you an area that’s not going to be constantly scratched away at.
CHARLES: That sounds very feasible.
LESLIE: And that’s not very difficult to do. You can altogether create a pathway exerting some edger or you can get remains of slate at any sort of stone yard. You can think about a ton of different ways to do it. Pavers. You can pick a price point and stick to it.
CHARLES: That sounds great. Will the dogs, because I framed stone back there, stay off of that and create a new course or will that not feign the dogs at all?
TOM: I don’t think so. I belief the dogs want to run against that barricade, so they’ll probably "ve been trying to" get as closely connected to it as possible.
CHARLES: That sounds great. I sure do appreciate it. I’ll look into some stone work then that- where I can make a smiley face croaking- back of my house.
TOM: Alright, Charles. Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Dawn in Florida who seems to be a quality enthusiast looking to retexture a ceiling.
Dawn, I think this a first. How can we help you?
DAWN: My home is about a year-and-a-half old and when they textured the ceiling, it’s a flame orange peel, same concept they did on the walls. And they said it would be easier and more economical to do that than to try to do a slick hair on my ceiling. I don’t think that’s true-life. Instead now, a year-and-a-half last-minute into it, then I noticed that you can still see the dirt commemorates.
Well, I’ve been doing a lot of research on painting and they have all this Venetian plaster and all these different techniques. And I often got to wondering if I could do that on a ceiling- the same wall skill on a ceiling.
TOM: What does the ceiling look like right now? Like how deep is the texture that "youve had"?
DAWN: Very light. It is a very light orange peel but you are able see the strip and the mudding. Late at night, I look up there and I’m like, “I can still realise the lines where the drywall goes together.” So, you can definitely see it raised.
TOM: I’m concerned that even if you do kept the Venetian plaster kind of paint on that, that it might not be thick fairly. Because if you can see the videotape and the mud, it means that the ceiling was never properly spackled. And if it wasn’t accurately spackled, you’re likely to see that through no matter what you do.
DAWN: Well, what do you think I should do? You think I should hire somebody to come in and precisely redo my ceilings? It’s not a very big house. It’s actually an ICF-construction mansion. It’s got solid concrete walls with rebar. And so it’s very solidly constructed and I went through a lot of disturbance to have it done so a typhoon couldn’t blow me away. But I demand it to look good on the inside, as well.
TOM: ICF stands for shielded concrete assembles, for those working in our gathering that have never heard that term consumed. And it’s a tremendous way to build a house because it is hurricane-proof. Literally, all the things that come thrown around in a typhoon will not pierce the outside of the house. You’d be surprised how immediate a 2x4 could be jammed right through a building that’s spawned with wood siding or even vinyl surfacing. Could be even worse.
And the ceiling itself, if it wasn’t perfectly spackled, I’m concerned that if you set anything on top of that, it’s going to show through. So I would suggest then- what you might want to do is to sand- have individual come in and beach those areas that are not properly spackled. Do a good job spackling them and then thinly sand the whole thing, threw a good hair of primer over it and then- because this is a repair, it’s not about to become a smooth as if it wasn’t a amend. So then you could use a plaster decorate- a Venetian plaster or a textured paint- as a final step. Does that make sense?
DAWN: OK. Well, I think we’re on the same page and I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breeze and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And just ahead, are you thinking of selling your home the following spring? Have you planned how you’ll move all your nonsense? Smart homeowners to be considered selling and moving at the same time. We’re going to share tip-off on how to do time that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on? Give us a call right now. The crowd is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Mental note, Leslie, if you’re going to do some concrete exertion around your house. This weekend, I decided that I was going to form- actually, say, a little bit last week- said I would form a bow alongside of a paver walkway because the edges were starting to slump a bit bit. And I want something super solid, you know, so that wouldn’t happen. So I words it up. I represent I exercised chalk strands and stakes and 2x4s and it- dig it out and positioned some gravel on the bottom of the curbed arena and it seemed excellent. Said, “OK. Tomorrow morning, I’m going to pour this sucker.” Well, then we got an inch-and-a-half of sprinkle overnight.
LESLIE: Oh , no.
TOM: I had to do it- the whole thing all over again as soon as that rainwater stopped.
So, if you’ve had a project proceed awry, we feel your pain. Give us a summon, right now, and we’ll help get you out of that jam-pack. The count is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Rich in Illinois needs some help with a make-up project. Tell us what you’re working on.
RICH: I’m working on a residence that I’ve been living in since 1988. And the bottom four divisions of my sword siding save peeling. It’s like a 30-foot-long article. Each segment is 8 inches wide. And it has a wood-grain pattern on it; looks like it’s been stomped. And every two years, I approach this project. First time, I made a cable brushing to it and beat all the loose off and primary it. And 2 years later, I was doing it again.
And every year, I try a different method. I tried a wire rotate on a teach. Last-place time, I made an aura compressor and a hose and a instruct and a wire wheel and went down to the bare metal.
RICH: And went to the paint store and they gave me some primer and some paint. And seemed like everything I try- I bathe it with draw thinner sometimes before I do it. Sometimes I simply use soap and spray. I ever make sure it’s a nice, baked date- about 80 magnitudes- when I cover it. And it seems to always come back about every two to three years.
I know it should be replaced but I kind of like the siding. But it’s steel and it’s- the company is no longer in business now and so the warranty is up on it.
TOM: And there’s different qualities of steel. So even though they are it had a rust-resistant finish on it, it could have just worn off. And I wonder if whatever process they used is what’s causing the decorate to not stick.
When you primary it, are you using an oil-based primer or are you expending an alkyd primer?
RICH: Both. I’ve exploited both. I don’t know if it’s the primer that I use or if it’s- I’ve even went down to no depict at all and precisely the galvanized picture and- I don’t know. I don’t know what it- I don’t know if it’s the primer or what I’m abusing to dry the siding with that’s inducing it or it’s the decorate. I tried four or five different kinds of paint on this and primer.
TOM: What I would do- I signify if I was primary it- and you been in a position to done this already. But what I would do is I would use same manufacturer’s primer and depict. So, for example, I don’t think you can go wrong with Rust-Oleum. That’s pretty much one of the best metal draws of all.
I would use the red Rust-Oleum primer- the oil-based primer- and I would cause it thoroughly dry after you fling off all the loose depict and sand it and make sure the surface is ready to accept it. But I would use the oil-based Rust-Oleum primer which, by the way, makes forever to cool. Depends on the condition but three or four or five hours is not remarkable. And then, I would use the Rust-Oleum topcoat. Again, oil-based. And I rarely recommend oil-based but in this situation, I think that’s what’s going to give you the best adhesion.
Now, Rich, there’s one other piece of advice that we could give you on this and it comes from a process that’s extremely- that’s done very often when people work on automobiles. There’s a make called Prep-Sol- P-r-e-p-S-o-l. And it’s a solvent that’s designed to be applied to bare metal before the primer. You might want to look that up as- I don’t know what - you told you to exerting a solvent. I don’t know if you were exploiting mineral salt- mineral forces or something like that- but this is specifically uttered for it. Just Google it. It’s announced Prep-Sol- P-r-e-p- S-o-l. And it’s a cleaning solvent.
RICH: OK. Do I apply it with a brush or a cloth or ...?
TOM: You apply it with a cloth. Use a clean-living cloth and you apply it - you immerse it in with the cloth.
RICH: Yeah, I’ll try that. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for announce us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, billions of Americans are putting their live on the market this spring season but the majority of members of them won’t even to be considered how they’ll move all their stuff until after they sell their house, which kind of is too late to make a smart decision. So, to help, we’ve got a few gratuities to save time, hassle and cash.
TOM: Now, first, contrary to favourite tradition, the best time to start strategy your move is as soon as you decide to sell your home. Some of the stuff you’ll do to prepare a home for sale can actually help with the moving process. Chores like sprucing up and cleaning out the wardrobes and the basements or the attics render plenty of time to purge and coordinate as "theres going", meaning there’s going to be a lot less to do formerly your home is under contract.
LESLIE: Now, there are a number of factors that can impact that plan to move and that’s including the distance to your new home.
Now, a neighbourhood move could totally be a do-it-yourself job while a long-distance move clearly makes screening and elect a professional moving company to assist you in with that. So, you’ve got to be be available to compare written guesses, ask for recent referrals and show their mover credentials.
Unfortunately, this is one area where bad contractors thrive and some will even threaten to hold your occasions captive until the greenback is paid. You hear about this more often than you don’t hear about it. And it’s kind of a scary thing because, rightfully, some person you time match is literally driving away with everything you own in one truck.
TOM: Yeah. With moving, any quantity of stuff more than a few cases carloads is not a DIY project. So, you want to be sure to choose your pro extremely carefully, including interpret real examines from buyers who have exercised the movers in the past, in places like HomeAdvisor.com, to make sure you and your nonsense arrive on time, undamaged and on budget.
LESLIE: Joyce in Missouri is on the line with a floor-finishing question. How can we help you?
JOYCE: I do have a question about my hardwood. It’s the old-fashioned, solid hardwood from- it was put down back in the 50 s. I affection it and I refinished it, oh, probably about 15 to 17 years ago. And with the time and traffic, the top is wearing now and I need to sand it down and resurface it. When I did it then, I used GYM-SEAL. But I want to know what would be the best product that would be long-term live and something that would be user-friendly for an individual.
TOM: OK. So, first of all, in terms of the sanding-it-down part, does the floor have any truly severe wear or is it just the finish that’s worn?
JOYCE: Just the finish.
TOM: So you don’t have to sand it down the whole way. What you can do is you can mostly only gently sand the surface. There is a machine called a U-Sand machine, which is like an abrasive saucer sander that you can rent at a home core or a hardware store. It has four abrasive saucers in it. It does have a vacuum organisation building in it is therefore doesn’t leave dust all over the place.
But it won’t wear down the timber too much. It’ll just sort of take that top seam of finish off and get it ready to be refinished. Because with hardwood floors, you don’t want to sand them totally down if you don’t have to, because that makes many years off their life when you take all that finish off down to the raw wood. It’s truly not necessary.
And then after you sand it, then you can apply an oil-based polyurethane. So not water-based but oil-based. Not acrylic-based but oil-based. And you’re going to apply that with what’s called a “lambswool applicator.” It’s kind of like a mop. And you dip it into a paint tray, you apply it in a extremely smooth, even coat. Start on one point, toil your way out the door and then leave for a good four or five, six hours depending on the weather.
JOYCE: OK. With the windows open?
TOM: Yeah. Yeah. If it’s a delightful, dry era and the windows are open, that’s very good thing. But only remember: whatever it says for dehydrating meter on the can, at the least doubled it because it tends to be a bit sticky for a while.
JOYCE: OK. So an oil-based polyurethane and a lambswool applicator.
TOM: Yup. And then with a light-footed sanding before you start the whole situation. OK?
JOYCE: Sounds incredible. Thank you so very much and you all have a wonderful day.
TOM: Thanks, Joyce. Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
You know, we get more the issues of floorings than any other topic on this program.
LESLIE: And they occupy a huge parcel of your residence. And there’s ever something to do with them.
TOM: They do. And they take a lot of defamation, so that’s probably why people need to fix them all the time.
LESLIE: They do.
Now we’ve get Doug in Virginia on the line with a siding question. How can we help you?
DOUG: Yes. I had- my son’s house has some vinyl backing on it. And the kinfolks that owned it before he did were patching something with some of the spray-foam insulation- the crack-filler stuff- and it exuded out all over the siding. So I know I can go back and cut it loose, cut what’s extra stuff. But when I get down close to the vinyl, "whats being" I empty the residue off with to make it clean without damaging the vinyl?
TOM: It’s very difficult because you get- those foams are usually polyurethane and they have real adhesive qualities to it. Real adhesive. So, what you can do is try to gently scratching it off with a putty knife. But make sure you use- an elderly one is better because it won’t is immensely so abrupt. And very carefully do that.
And then, I’ve stripped off some sud- errant sud- with WD-4 0 as the solvent. So you might want to try that with a ScotchPad because ScotchPad is not abrasive. But you were able to scatter the backing with the WD-4 0 and then work the ScotchPad back and forth. You may find that you draw away some of that residue. It truly depends on what kind of foam it is. But you’re right, formerly it’s dry, to cut as much of it off and then "ve been trying to" abrade the rest of it off. But do so with a recollection not to damage the siding.
DOUG: OK. Well, I’ll give it a try. WD-4 0.
TOM: Yep. Try it. It’s one of the thousand uses for that stuff. They say you only need two things in your implement paraphernalium: WD-4 0 and canal tape. They’re pretty close.
DOUG: Then I can go over the whole back of the house with WD-40 to revitalize the vinyl, right?
TOM: Well, I wouldn’t- if it’s the whole back of the house, if you’re talking about spot-cleaning, OK. But if it’s the whole back of the house, then I think you’ve got a bigger problem. I think you’re looking at new siding.
DOUG: But would I get an oily recognise when I use the WD-4 0 that will appear different than the rest of it?
TOM: You will, you will. But soap and water will take it away.
DOUG: I guess that’ll fade, yeah.
LESLIE: That’s why it’s good for only like a little spot.
DOUG: Alright. Well, thanks a lot.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Cracks in your footing might be nothing major to worry about or they could be a sign of a bigger problem. So, how do you know the difference? We’ll was talking about, in precisely a bit.
TOM: Preparing good homes better, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We’d love to hear from you about what you’re working on this beautiful springtime weekend. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a enterprise. Use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide and realize what others pay off similar activities, all for free, at HomeAdvisor.com.
And if you pick up the phone and impart us a call, right now, we’ll toss your name in The Money Pit hard hat because we’re giving away five two copies of our volume, My house, My Money Pit: Your Guide to Every Home Improvement Adventure.
LESLIE: Margaret in Arkansas is on the line with a tiling question. What can we do for you?
MARGARET: I’ve got a big imagination. I expected that there was a make out there that would equal it.
MARGARET: I’ve got an age-old flooring that I was hoping that I could perhaps crowd the cracks and the little locates it’s chipped out and then refinish the whole storey to where it looked like new.
TOM: Yeah, that’s- I would not pursue that. Because you know what? First of all, the reason it cracked is probably because the subfloor wasn’t properly installed or has diluted for some reason. Because tiles don’t bend. And if they’re cracking, that means that the floor is weak underneath.
So, except in cases of the periodic odd amend when you’re precisely fixing like one or two cracked tiles, it’s not the kind of thing that you want to invest any time in whatsoever.
MARGARET: So, the best thing is just to take it up or ...?
TOM: You can either take it up or you could actually kept a brand-new floor on top of that if you don’t want it to be tile. You could, for example, invest a laminate floor on top of that, which goes down in interlocking bits. And then that sort of hovers on top of the tile; it’s not physically fixed. It just sort of stays in place by its own weight. It’s very beautiful and exceedingly sturdy trash and not too expensive. Certainly a lot cheaper than redoing the tile floor.
MARGARET: OK. Laminate is what it’s called.
TOM: Laminate. It’s announced “laminate floor.” Lots and bunches of different types out there.
MARGARET: OK. Thank you so much.
TOM: Alright, Margaret. Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for come us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, something that you might not be aware of is that movement is all around you. It’s your residence. Now, you might not realize this but your home is always expanding and sickening with temperature reforms and resolving.
TOM: And that change can cause rifts to your foundation. But how do you know if a fracture is serious or precisely the result of some ordinary residence action? For that, we turn to Tom Silva, members of the general contractor on TV’s This Old House.
TOM SILVA: Thanks, people. Nice to be here.
TOM: So, I’m sure just about every residence has its share of cracks, liberty?
TOM SILVA: It sure does because the house is always moving, as Leslie says.
TOM: And there are a lot of reasons that that happens?
TOM SILVA: There are a lot of reasons that it happens. Wind, number one. But in the foot, it’s expansion and reduction from various times of the season. You get a cold region, you’re going to get swelling from the ice and in the winter it’s going to relax, so the pressure on the wall is going to push back.
TOM: And you get more structural questions, like poverty-stricken sewage? You get a lot of water around the foundation?
TOM SILVA: Absolutely. That’s why you want to relieve that pressure so the ice doesn’t form and less possibility of pushing against the wall.
TOM: So if we discover these crackings, how do we assess the extent to which it’s a minor sort of unimportant sound or one that are actually asks some notice?
TOM SILVA: A small, hairline hit is pretty common and that is typically happen in the swarm of the wall. The give with the daylight is- too much sunlight, it could set up a little bit extremely quick and it’s really not an issue. But if you get a crack that’s wide or get wider or you’re unsure, what I like to do is take a pencil or a Sharpie and glean a line from all the regions of the crack and then go across a season and see if it has drooped, if the line has moved.
LESLIE: Oh, that’s really smart.
TOM SILVA: And that tells you that there’s been some settling underneath, that maybe some organic matter got underneath the backfill process and has rotted away.
TOM: Like a tree stump or something like that? Mm-hmm.
TOM SILVA: Yeah, yeah. Or inadequate sewage or perhaps water getting underneath, bathing some sediment away. And it’s going to cause it to settle.
Another type of foundation crack is a horizontal crack. And lot of periods, you see that in a blocking foundation where there’s too much pressure against the wall.
TOM SILVA: And those are ones that would really concern me because the wall is actually bowing in to the base.
TOM: Hmm. It’s actually displaced.
TOM SILVA: Right, right.
LESLIE: So too much adversity may be from the backfill when the foundation was spewed back in or from the heavines of such structures above? What would motive that pressing?
TOM SILVA: Or too the freezing/ thawing outside because of the poorest of the poor drainage. So there’s a lot of issues there.
TOM: So you get a lot of water in that soil and that spray is going to expand that soil and push on the wall and it kind of ratchets it over the years.
TOM SILVA: Oh, yeah. Absolutely.
TOM: It gets a little worse every year; doesn’t go back.
TOM SILVA: Yeah. No , no. It doesn’t go back. When it expands out and in the summertime when it bone-dries, the soil descends back in, completes the bit void from the vibrations of airplanes and trucks and gale and everything else. Then it freezes. Now you have a little more bite to push it out a bit more. So it’s exclusively going to get worse.
TOM: So "when youve got" that stage of sort of structural cranny, that might be a good time to call in key experts, like a structural designer, correct?
TOM SILVA: Structural architect is the best method to go right there. He’s going to tell you how to fix and solve that problem.
LESLIE: And he doesn’t do the job himself, so that’s kind of like a good , non-biased belief of what needs to be done.
TOM SILVA: Yeah, yeah. You are going to pay this person to tell you how to fix the problem and then you’re going to hire individual that’s vanishing to choose the problem.
TOM: And adopt his advice.
TOM SILVA: Absolutely. To the T.
TOM: I ever think it’s a good suggestion to have the engineer "il be back later" and kind of sign off on the project, because that sort of becomes a pedigree. Says it was done right.
TOM SILVA: If I have an technologist come on website to do anything in the chamber of representatives, if he said we have to do something, he then comes back and said, “Yeah, it’s OK,” you’ve done it right.
TOM: Right. Good advice. Now, if you have a minor hit and one that you do want to tackle yourself, how would you approach that?
TOM SILVA: First thing I would do is I would open that rift up. I’d take a 1/2 -inch chisel and I would go down the fracture and make it wider and I’d make sure that the sides are flat. You don’t want to have it V-shaped. That direction, you can put your cement or your spray in that joint and it will have something to go against. You can’t just take hydraulic cement and lay it on the crack.
TOM SILVA: It will merely dry off and fell out of. It needs to be between two walls to work correctly.
TOM: Now, that’s a good point. And it’s somewhat counterintuitive because people that realize a hit don’t think the first thing they want to do is make it bigger.
LESLIE: Make it bigger.
TOM SILVA: Yeah. But that’s what you have to do. And you have to make it bigger and you have to make it flat on both sides.
TOM: So if you’re a do-it-yourselfer, what would you say is probably very good, most foolproof cloth to use?
TOM SILVA: If you’re going to do it yourself, you’re leading to chisel a groove, you’re going to make sure you have flat faces and you can use a hydraulic plaster if it has two skin-deeps to go against.
TOM: Now, good advice. And speaking of being a DIYer, what’s the biggest misconception you’ve control homeowners realize with organization repairs?
TOM SILVA: Caulking.
TOM: Yeah. Thinking caulking solves everything is, right?
TOM SILVA: Caulking will solve it all, yeah. Latex caulking. Now, silicone is the worst thing you can have because silicone doesn’t stick with a porous surface.
TOM: That’s huge advice. Tom Silva, the contractor from TV’s This Old House, thanks very much for stopping by The Money Pit.
TOM SILVA: Always a pleasure. Nice to be here, guys.
LESLIE: Alright. Catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For local leanings and step-by-step videos of many common home improvement projects, visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House and Ask This Old House are brought to you on PBS by GMC Trucks and SUVs.
And time ahead, springtime emptying needles your mansion appearing enormou but just how clean is it really? We’ll have tips on where to find germs that are hiding in plain sight, after this.
Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a announce, right now, with your home progress question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: 888 -MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros and bible appointments online, all for free.
TOM: Got the garden started this weekend, Leslie. You were talking about working outside. That’s what we did. We got the garden started.
LESLIE: Oh, my goodness. You can tell I’ve been working outside. I’m telling you, Tom, my allergies this season, I was not prepared for what time digging- I want I’m doing a lot of work in my ground. And to try to save some coin, I’m pulling out a lot of the shrubs and the landscaping myself.
TOM: A spate of substance? Yeah.
LESLIE: It’s a downright mess and I cannot stop coughing and sneezing. And this is why I definitely sounds like, you know- I’m not even sure what I sound like.
TOM: You made that.
Hey, have you been working outside? Taking on some home improvement projects, some yard campaigns like Leslie, who is digging her ground or me? I was planting a garden-variety. Tried to get those Jersey tomatoes seeded early so we have the big-hearted, juicy ones when the summer comes around.
LESLIE: Oh, for the- right in the middle of summer.
TOM: Oh, yeah. Exactly.
But whatever you’re working on, give us a call right now. We’d love to help you take on that job, 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now, we’ve went Diane from Rhode Island on the line with a basement matter. What going on in here at your fund oppose?
DIANE: Hi. I have a house; it was built in 1945. And in my basement, the plaster walls- and it looks like once upon a time, they were painted white-hot. And the bottom half of the walls, who the hell is below the soil level, it crumbles and it leaves a lot of sediment. And I can see through the big happenings of pebbles in the wall.
TOM: So the reason that the bottom half of the wall is deteriorating is probably because of sweat. What are these walls made out of? Are they made out of concrete or concrete block or cinder block?
DIANE: Concrete. There’s no block.
TOM: There’s no obstruct; it’s concrete. Alright. So I reckon what’s happening here is you’re getting water that’s leaking through the lower half of the walls. And you’re probably get efflorescence. You is likely to be getting some spalling, depending on the temperatures, that could be causing some of the wall to freeze and then basically chip off fragments of the concrete.
So, what I would do, in such cases, is I would start by trying to reduce the amount of moisture that’s collecting in that wall by relating to the sewage requirements right outside of it. Generally speaking, this is caused by one of two things or more commonly, a combination of the angle of the grunge at the foundation perimeter. If it’s extremely flat, if it’s ascent into the house, if there’s any kind of landscaping ties or brick perimeters or more much mulch, any of those conditions that are holding water around the foundation is a bad situation. And more importantly, the trough structure. Make sure "youve had" sewers, that the sewers are diversified at the least 4 to 6 feet from the house. If you are able to deter that perimeter of your residence drier, this trouble will definitely stabilize.
DIANE: OK. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, outpouring cleaning can induce your room are so beautiful and it can actually filch your humor, extremely. But could your home still be dirtier than you think?
TOM: Well, it could be. The following is several arranges that most homeowners don’t think to clean. And if you ignore some of these smudges for too long, they can actually become health hazards.
For example, let’s talk about all those paddle supporters that we’re probably starting to use right now, especially on those warm eras. The top of the ceiling fan is not merely get dirty, it communicates dust and clay and germs flying every time you snap it on. So you want to get up on a ladder and clean the top of those blades with every seasonal cleaning.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, another germ magnet- and this always grosses me out. Any time my minors are sick, I’m telling you I’ve got a good trick for this. I’m talking about stair banisters and doorknobs, as well as knobs on lockers and drawers. Now, these stuffs get soiled and super germy really fast.
And I’m telling you, when my children are sick, I make those bleach mops and I put one on each entrust and I merely march up and down the stairs and I touch all the cabinets. I only save swapping them out and I time erase every single surface, because those concepts certainly get so dirty so fast. You miss to avoid waiting until beings are sick. Precisely give them a immediate clean every week or two with that cleansing spraying or hot, soapy water.
And don’t forget about the top of your refrigerator. You know, kitchen grease, clay, grease, it gathers up there. And that can lead to germs, even fungus. You can see mold and mildew grow up there. So keep the top of your fridge clean-living. It’s especially important if you’re storing food up there. I know I do, so you must be.
TOM: And here’s something you may not be thinking about. You know those reusable, cloth grocery crates? They’re great for the environmental issues but they could be bad for your health if you don’t keep them clean. Think about it: they touch everything from shopping carts to raw fruit and meat and they do need a good soap after every give. So, toss them in the laundry. It’s terribly, highly simple to keep them clean-living and keep them from spreading germs around your house.
LESLIE: Terry in Mississippi is on the line looking for some help to get rid of termites. Tell us what’s going on.
TERRY: Yes. I’d like to know, what kind of spray should I get for termites?
TOM: Well, termite management is not a do-it-yourself project. Because termites really need to be professionally considered because of where they live. They live penetrating in the grunge, Terry. And so, to treat them effectively, a termiticide has to be applied to the soil and in a continual bail the whole way around your house.
And what happens with the modern termiticides is they’re undetectable, so the termites don’t know it’s in the grunge. They pass through it, they get it on their bodies and then they go back to the nest and pass it to all their termite pals. And that erases out the entire nest.
So, it’s not really a do-it-yourself project. I would talk to some exterminators and maybe ask precisely about a product announced Termidor- T-e-r-m-i-d-o-r. Good product. It’s been around for a long time. I exercised it in my own house and it’s an undetectable termiticide that’s very effective and lasts for many years.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for announcing The Money Pit.
Hey, gues you’ve got to repaint a room that was covered with the worst color combination possible. Well, we’re going to share the step-by-step to tackle that challenge, next.
TOM: Spawning good residences better, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your asks, your questions about your home improvement projects, your remodeling assignments, your decor challenges. The digit is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it cost to do your home project before you hire a pro and instantaneously work one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Don’t forget, while you’re online be sure to post any questions that you’ve got to The Money Pit’s Community page. Now, Terry in California corresponds: “I want to repaint an interior apartment. The existing shade is a vibrant purple and pink.”
TOM: Well, patently, we know why she wants to repaint it.
LESLIE: You know what? Everything 80 s coming in, so maybe if she waits a couple of weeks, it’ll be back again and she’ll want those colors.
But let’s see here. She wants to know the best way to prep the walls for the least amount of coatings to cover such colors colors.
TOM: Well, prep-wise, I mean you just want to make sure they’re clean. So I would use a TSP solution and soak everything down to get all the dirt and the grime and the grease and anything that’s on there off.
A little deception of the swap for that. You can use a storey swab- a brand-new flooring mop, by the way- and make sure you wring it out. Because sometimes, when you use them on the flooring, they’re pretty runny. But you were able to just wring it out a lot and use that to kind of wash the walls instead of "re going to have to" kind of use your limbs to get that sponge over every square hoof. A leech clean is a lot easier way to do that.
Now, in terms of those complexions, the secret is this: it’s in the primer, privilege? You’re going to want to prime those walls. And you want to make sure, if the finish is any color other than white, which is sort of the default color for primer, that "youve had" the colour storage colour the primer. So, if it’s yellow or fuchsia or- what’s the Pantone Color of the Time? That purple?
LESLIE: Wasn’t it like a blue-blooded denim?
TOM: Whatever color it is, hue the primer. Tint the primer because, assure, that gives you both the priming purpose which, of course, is to sort of give you a good surface for the upper mantles of decorate to stick to. That cover-up that. But if you colors it, it also covers all those colours underneath. So, ever retain, tint the primer when you have a challenge like that. It’ll have to be an alkyd-based or water-based primer, which is fine because they’re great today. Because most paint storages are not tinting oil-based produces anymore.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, Josh is wondering: “At what temperature should I adjust my attic ability vent-hole love to keep my attic cool? I live in a red-hot, muggy environment where temperatures are often in the 90 s. And the ceiling get full show to the sun throughout the day, so it’s got to be a gajillion degrees up there.”
TOM: I gamble it is. But you know what? While those supremacy volcanoes, those attic followers that are motorized, seem like a good notion- they generally turn on between 90 to 110 grades, by the way. It’s the deep-seated. But they’re not the best choice for chill attics.
Here’s why. If you have central air conditioning, when that fan knocks on, it is often used to depressurize that attic gap. So it plucks all the air- the hot air out of the attic- good but it doesn’t stop there. It’s disappearing to contact down through all the crackings and crevices and the opening around wires and pipes and between walls and it’s going to start sucking the breeze conditioning out of your room at the same time. So it can actually drive up your cool costs, which is what you’re trying to avoid in the first place.
So a better option is what’s called a “continuous ridge and soffit vent.” It’s a vent-hole that goes down the peak of the ceiling and at the undersides of the soffits so that when warm breeze blows over the chamber of representatives, it inclines to draw out of the attic at the bank and it’ll push in at the soffit and carry up all that heat and moisture and humidity out with it. So it’s a considerably better system for hindering a cool attic than that powered attic ventilator.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you know, it’s good for call year-round because if you have insulation in your attic, which you are able to, and in the heating season it’ll keep the moisture outside of the separation. And it’ll actually help keep your residence warmer.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. We hope we’ve given you some tips-off and themes on how you could enjoy the season and take over the projects that you’d like to get done around your home. Remember, you can reach us, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If we’re not in the studio, we’ll call you back the next time we are. Or you can post your question to the Community page at MoneyPit.com.
But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t was therefore necessary to get it on alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No segment of this transcript or audio folder is also available reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Creation, Inc .)
The natural beauty of plants and flowers is a favorite ingredient of holiday decorating, but it can also be hazardous to your health. Some plants that look festive can cause skin irritation from simple handling, and others have berries and leaves that can be fascinating but dangerous to children and pets.
If you’re planning to decorate with holiday plants or already have a few in your home, be aware of the dangers some pose so you can plan and display accordingly. Maintenance is also important: dropped berries and leaves need to be picked up at least once daily. Here’s more on the potential hazards of five popular holiday plants.Holly
Curious kids aren’t usually attracted to holly’s spiny leaves, but the berries are another story. Consuming one or two berries can cause a tummy ache, eating a few more leads to diarrhea and vomiting, and eating 20 holly berries causes death.
Amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus
If ingested, the bulbs of these graceful winter blooms will lead to stomach aches, heart arrhythmia and even convulsions. Their leaves also contain toxins, although in smaller amounts. Amaryllis and paperwhites are more often consumed by pets than people.
Every part of the mistletoe plant contains toxin dangerous to people and pets. It can cause nausea, diarrhea, blurred vision, blood pressure problems and even death in humans, and if a small pet eats just a few mistletoe berries, it can be in serious danger. Small children are also attracted to the berries, whether on the plant itself or after they’ve fallen to the floor. Call poison control if mistletoe is ingested, and avoid problems by swathing mistletoe in tulle or a bag that will catch and hold any berries before they hit the floor.
The dangers of the poinsettia plant are generally overblown, but it’s not entirely harmless. If ingested, it can irritate the mouth and stomach, sometimes resulting in diarrhea or vomiting. If the milky sap comes in contact with skin, irritation, including redness, swelling, and itchiness, may develop. Rarely, eye exposure can result in a mild “pink eye” reaction.
You may recognize this invasive, nonnative plant, especially if you live in California, Hawaii, Texas, Alabama or Florida. Brazilian pepper’s shiny evergreen leaves and bright red berries may seem to be the perfect match for holiday decorating, but many people wind up with rashes just from touching or being near this plant. It can also cause mild to severe breathing reactions.
The cherry-tomato-like fruit of this plant is extremely toxic to cats, dogs and some birds. Humans who eat Jerusalem cherries can have reactions ranging from gastric distress and vomiting to slowed pulse, seizures and hallucinations. All parts of the Jerusalem cherry are toxic—even more so when unripe—so call poison control if any bit of it is ingested.
In the event of an emergency call to your local poison control center, you’ll need to know the name of the plant consumed as well as the exact parts and amount consumed. Also be prepared to provide the approximate time of consumption and the person’s age, weight and condition. These are critical to giving proper care in the event of a holiday plant emergency.
Source: Bayer Advanced
From Source Article: moneypit.com