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LESLIE: Tony in Virginia is on the line with some creaky stairs. Tell us what’s going on.
TONY: Well, I’ve got a 55-year-old ranch house and this time, before we change the carpet, I’d like to try and get some of the creaks out of the stairs that go to the basement.
TONY: And on each step, I’ve put seven 2-inch screws where the – around where the finishing nails were. And then on the back plate, I put six screws. And some of the squeak is definitely better but they’re still very squeaky.
TOM: So, what kind of staircase is it? Is it – do you know your stairs? Is this what’s called a “box stair,” where you have a wide stringer on the side of it that goes all the way down to the basement?
TOM: And so can you get to that face? So could we screw through the stringer, into the edges of the treads to get rid of creaky stairs?
TONY: Boy, that would be tough because it’s a crawlspace. It’s possible but it would be almost heroic to get to that spot.
TOM: OK, I hear you. So here is a way to fix creaky stairs – and you’re going to carpet this, so we really don’t care how pretty this repair that I’m about to tell you to do is, because it’ll be covered by carpet.
But where the treads go into the stringers, what you can do there is on a 45-degree angle, you can pilot first some small holes. And then drive the screws at an angle through the tread, catching as much of the tread meat as you dare and then going through the back of the tread and then into the stringer itself. Because probably where the tread pulls in and out of the stringer is where you’re getting most of your squeak. I’m going to imagine that what you screwed down right now is the attachment between the tread and the risers, because those are more accessible. But we want you to actually – to secure the tread into the stringers on both sides.
So do that sort of by nailing – not nailing but screwing at a 45-degree angle, piloting first. But not with a big pilot: just enough to kind of keep the screw straight. And that will pull the tread down into the stringer and hopefully lock it in place. That plus what you’ve already done, Tony, I think is the best that you can do. You know, wood stairs have a lot of parts to them and they do move as you walk up and down. They will squeak. But if you try to secure those loose treads before you carpet them, I think it’ll make a big difference, OK?
TONY: Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Setting handrails, bolts or metal posts in existing concrete requires the use of a special, highly fluid expansive cement material called QUIKRETE Anchoring Cement. Standard cement based products shrink as they cure and will leave a void between the existing concrete and the newly placed cement mix surrounding the post. Anchoring cement expands as it cures, locking the post into place.
QUIKRETE anchoring cement is a pourable, rapid setting expansive cement that sets in 10 to 30 minutes and because it is Portland cement-based, it is suitable for continuously wet environments. A masonry core drill should be used to create a hole that is at least 1 inch larger than the diameter of the railing or bolt. The hole should be from 2 inches to 4 inches deep.
By increasing the embedded depth of the post, the pullout strength will increase. To mix anchoring cement, add about five parts cement to one part clean water. Always wear safety glasses and waterproof gloves when working with anchoring cement or any other cement-based product.
Use a margin trowel to thoroughly mix the material to a fluid consistency similar to Syrup. Making sure that the mix is uniform and lump-free. If the mix is too wet, add additional anchoring cement and mix thoroughly. If the mix is too dry, add small amounts of water sparingly.
QUIKRETE Anchoring Cement is a rapid-setting material, so mix only as much as can be used in about 10 minutes. Prior to pouring the anchoring cement, remove any loose debris and dampen the hole. Do not leave any standing water.
Slowly pour the anchoring cement into the hole, around the post, to a level slightly above the surface. Anchoring cement will reach over 4,000 PSI compressive strength in 24 hours and can support heavyweight in just two hours. For vertical applications, simply add less water and mix to a heavy putty consistency.Project Instructions
When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.
Step 1 Create a hole with a masonry core drill that is at least 1 inch larger than the diameter of the railing or bolt; the hole should be from 2 inches to 4 inches deep.
TIP: by increasing the embedded depth of the post, the pull-out strength will increase.
Step 2 Mix Anchoring Cement by adding about 5 parts Anchoring Cement to 1 part clean water.
TIP: QUIKRETE Anchoring Cement is a Rapid Setting material so mix only as much as can be used in about 10 minutes.
Step 3 Use a margin trowel to thoroughly mix the material to a fluid consistency similar to syrup. Make sure that the mix is uniform and lump free. If the mix is too wet, add additional Anchoring Cement and mix thoroughly; if the mix is too dry, add small amounts of water sparingly.
TIP: for vertical applications, simply add less water and mix to a heavy putty consistency.
Step 4 Prior to pouring the anchoring cement, remove any loose debris and dampen the hole, but do not leave standing water.
Step 5 Slowly pour the Anchoring Cement into the hole around the post to a level slightly above the surface. (Anchoring Cement will reach over 4000 psi in 24 hours and can support heavy weight in just 2 hours.)Shopping List QUIKRETE Exterior Use Anchoring Cement 1/2” drill Masonry core drill bit Measuring pail Masonry brush Margin trowel Gloves Safety glasses
From Source Article: moneypit.com