LESLIE: Tim in Illinois is on the line and looking to add heated bathroom floor. How can we help you with your project?
TIM: Redoing a bathroom in a 100-year-old house. And we’re looking at putting floor tile down, possibly with heat under the tile. And I was wondering what – the best way to do it. By putting the tile on, do you need to go right to the subfloor or do you have to have some kind of concrete board underneath the tile with doing heat under the floor?
TOM: Well, sometimes the heat is actually put underneath the subfloor itself, so that’s another way to add heated bathroom floor from the back side of it. Depends on your access issues. But there’s a special type of subfloor that’s designed for radiant heat or sub-slab heat where, especially if it’s PEX-based, the piping runs through a channel in the subfloor itself. So there’s no chance it could get crushed or anything like that. It’s sort of a channeled-out piece of underlayment.
And then once that’s done, you can put your tile adhesive right on top of that and glue the tile to that underlayment.
TIM: OK. This is in an upstairs bathroom, so we won’t have access to the bottom side.
TOM: What kind of a heating system are you thinking about putting in? Is it going to be electric?
TIM: It’ll be electric. We have geothermal in the house itself, so we’ve got forced-air heat. So it would have to be – I think they have some kind of electric under-mat or something like that. And also, I was wondering, is it best to just do the areas where – the main traffic areas? You don’t need to do the whole floor. Is that correct?
TOM: No, you don’t have to. It certainly is nice. You don’t have to go around the toilet to add heated bathroom floor, for example. So, yeah, if you went in front of the sink, in front of the toilet and wherever you step out in the shower, then that should be fine.
And yes, some of those electric heating systems are really nice. They don’t use as much electricity as they used to. You can set them up on timers so they heat up right before you go in the bathroom and then time-out after that.
TIM: OK. So if I get this correct, you can just put a thinset concrete and then put tile right down onto the subfloor? Is that right? With the heating mat underneath?
TOM: Right. If it’s nice and smooth, you can do that to add heated bathroom floor. If it’s uneven, then there’s a number of ways to smooth that out, either through an additional subflooring material or by setting mud underneath it.
TIM: I appreciate your show. Thank you.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
LESLIE: Scott in Illinois has a question about a stamp from pressure treated lumber. How can we help you today?
SCOTT: I put in a wood deck about a year ago. It’s treated lumber; cedar, I think. And the lumber yard or the mill, they stamped it with their stamp that tells the grade or the manufacturer or whatever it is. And I want to stain it with a transparent stain, so I want to figure out how to get that off of there. I’ve tried power-washing it but that doesn’t do any good.
TOM: No, you have to sand it. The stamp from pressure treated lumber is in the grain of the wood, so you’d have to sand it out. And you can do that without affecting it because the pressure treatment goes throughout the entire wood.
But it’ll be a slightly lighter color. But why are you going to go with clear? Why not use a semi-transparent or a solid-color stain?
SCOTT: So it looks more weathered.
TOM: Yeah. I mean you can do that to remove stamp from pressure treated lumber. I will tell you, the difference between semi-transparent and solid color is probably about five years of longevity. Because the solid color just lasts a lot longer because it’s got more pigment in it.
SCOTT: Is that right? OK. So, a solid color will last 10 years compared to 5 or something?
TOM: Long, long – yeah, yeah, I think so. I think that’s fair. And by the way, you won’t have to worry about that stain because it’ll just go right on top of it.
SCOTT: Yep, OK. Too easy.
TOM: That’s what we try to do, Scott. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Whether you are building a fence, setting a mailbox, or even a basketball goal, the best way to make sure your post will stay sturdy and true for years is to set it in QUIKRETE Concrete Mix. The quickest and easiest way to set your post is to use QUIKRETE Fast-Setting Concrete because there is no mixing. You simply pour it into the hole dry. Then, add water.
When digging your post hole, it is important that the diameter of your hole be three times the width of your post, so the hole for a 4 inch wood post should be about 12 inches wide. The depth of your post should be 1/3 to 1/2 of post height, above ground, so a six foot tall fence would require a hole depth of at least two feet.
It is also recommended to add about six inches to the hole depth for the addition of gravel. Once you have dug your post hole, add about six inches of QUIKRETE All-Purpose Gravel into the bottom of the hole. Then, compact and level the gravel, using the post or a 2×4. Set the post into the hole. Then, use a level to position the post perfectly vertically.
Fill the hole with QUIKRETE Fast-Setting Concrete, up to three to four inches below ground level. Next, pour about a gallon of water into the hole. Allow the water to saturate the concrete mix. Fast-Setting Concrete will set hard in about 20 to 40 minutes. Wait about four hours to begin constructing your fence or applying heavy weight to your post. Fast-Setting Concrete can be used for setting wood or metal posts. It can also be mixed with water and poured around a post, as in the traditional post setting applications.
When working with cement-based products, always wear eye protection and waterproof gloves.
Step 1 Dig post hole so diameter of the hole is 3 times the width of the post (i.e., the hole for a 4” wood post should be about 12 inches wide). The depth of the hole should be 1/3-1/2 the post height above ground (i.e., a 6-foot tall fence would require a hole depth of at least 2 feet).
Step 2 Add about 6 inches of QUIKRETE All-Purpose Gravel into the bottom of the hole. Then compact and level the gravel using a post or 2×4.
Step 3 Set the post into the hole and attach 2×4 braces to adjacent sides of the post.
Step 4 Use a level to position the post perfectly vertical.
Step 5 Fill the hole with Fast-Setting Concrete up to 3 to 4 inches below ground level.
Step 6 Pour about a gallon of water per 50 lb bag into the hole and allow the water to saturate the concrete mix.
NOTE: mix will set hard in 20 to 40 minutes
Step 7 Wait about 4 hours to begin constructing your fence or applying heavy weight to your post.Shopping List 50 lb QUIKRETE Fast-Setting Concrete 50 lb QUIKRETE All-Purpose Gravel Pressure treated wood post or galvanized metal post Level 5-gallon bucket Measuring pail Post hole digger Gloves Safety glasses
(Optional)QUIKRETE Building form Shovel Plastic mixing tub
From Source Article: moneypit.com