Congratulations! You worked hard, had great numbers, and you put yourself in position for a great promotion. Your company noticed and offered you a great situation with increased pay and more benefits down the road. The only problem is that you have to move from your comfortable beachside apartment in San Diego to a frigid Chicago apartment in a booming metropolis where rent prices are on the rise.
While you make decent money now and should do well in the future, you still want to spend as little as possible on this major move, and you want to do it efficiently with as little hassle as possible. Can you have the best of all moving worlds? You can with a little advance planning. Here’s where to begin:#1 Get Rid of It
The first thing to do is look at all of your stuff. We all have stuff, and it’s many times stuff we don’t need. 10 scraggly Ethernet cords, old smartphones, short HDMI cables, iffy phone charging cords, and a variety of branded charging cubes you picked up at trade shows “that you can use in your car or at work” are all just some examples of the smaller techy junk you should dispose of.
Now let’s move on to the larger things like that 42” TV with a little crack on the edge of the screen, or that old monitor that you think you might need in case your dog knocks your monitor to the floor again like he did last Thanksgiving. That unmatched set of 12.5 and 15-pound dumbbells might be useful if you want two different sized arms, but you get the idea—get rid of unneeded stuff.#2 What to do With It
You have three options for stuff removal. Sell it, throw it away or donate it. A yard or garage sale is a good place to start. Since you absolutely need to rid yourself of as much clutter as possible, price things appropriately. If you really have some extra time, go to a few similar sales before you do yours and note prices charged. You’ll then have a good idea of what you can charge.
After the sale, you will inevitably have some stuff leftover. Anything that is “good,” like usable clothing or working electronics could be donated. Homeless shelters have a great need for simple items, and believe it or not, socks are their most requested clothing item. Schools might like your electronics—just don’t try and donate your parent’s Commodore 64. (You may have to look that one up.)
Now you are left with un-salable and un-donatable stuff. If you did your homework, you’ll know where the unmonitored neighborhood dumpsters are, and you’ll make a stealth trip at 2:00 a.m. to unload your unwanted belongings. If not, you’ll have to call your municipality to find out where the city dump is, or you will need to contact a hauler—this is a Craigslist thing—and have them load up your stuff and take it away.#3 Organize and Pack – Systematically!
Packing is key. The quick move where everything is dumped into boxes at the last moment is to be avoided at all costs. As soon as you know you have to go, start with one room at a time and carefully box items that you are taking. Then label the boxes explicitly. When you have finished one room, move to the next. Don’t do this randomly as that will increase stress and moving anxiety. Your goal will be to sleep on the floor the night before the move surrounded by neat stacks of all of your stuff ready to be loaded in the morning.#4 How Is It Going to Get There?
Round one has been completed and now you have to figure out how the things you are moving are going to get to your new apartment. Traditional van line-type movers are an option, but historically people have had problems with some of these companies. National moving van companies have been known to hold belongings hostage for more dollars.
A better idea is to a blended DYI move. It works this way:
One popular method is moving cubes. A company drops a cube onto your driveway. You fill it up, and then they pick it up and drop it off at your new location. While you can load, and unload, these cubes by yourself, a better idea may be to hire helpers to do it. Some cube companies provide names and contact information, and you can also look on Craigslist.
A variation of the cube move is to use a trucking service. These aren’t traditional movers because all these companies do is drop off a semi-trailer at your residence. You will have pre-authorized payment for a portion or all of the trailer space, and you may have to put up a partition after you have loaded your things. If you use more space than originally thought, you’ll have to pay, but all of this will have been agreed to beforehand. Then, this works the same as the cube—the trailer is picked up and then dropped off at your new location.#5 Pack It Properly
Items shift during moves, and if not loaded and packed correctly, you may find that your nice four-chair dining room set in pieces when you start to unpack. Therefore, make sure anyone that helps you knows what they are doing, and talk to the trucking and/or cube company about available insurance to cover any moving losses.
Moving is a pain, and we feel for you. That said, by following our tips and ideas above, you can make the experience a lot less stressful. Organization, planning and careful vendor selection will help keep costs down also. Keep those costs down and you might work your way toward overcoming a previous mortgage rejection or fixing your credit score. You never know!
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And thank you for joining us on this, the Memorial Day Weekend, which for us means an extra day to do home improvement projects around the house. If that’s …
LESLIE: That’s true.
TOM: If it’s the same for you, we’re in it with you. We’re in it together. Give us a call. Let’s talk about your project at 888-MONEY-PIT or you can post your question online to our Community page at MoneyPit.com.
Just ahead, if your siding and sidewalks and decks are looking pretty grimy, we’re going to give you a simple solution that can help make that mess disappear and prevent mildew, moss and more from growing right back.
LESLIE: Plus, speaking of grimy things, if you’ve got mold, the best way to deal with it is to prevent it. We’re going to share tips to stop mold cold.
TOM: And also speaking of grimy things, do you have kids that are making a mess in their room? Well, if you would like to clean up that room or perhaps redecorate it for a new arrival or update a space for kids who insist they’re not kids anymore, we’re going to have money-saving tips for easy updates, just ahead.
LESLIE: Plus, this hour, we’re giving away exactly what you’ll need to have a weed-free lawn this summer. We’ve got a supply of Bonide BurnOut Weed and Grass Killer Pump and Spray. It really does magically work. Your lawn’s going to be gorgeous.
TOM: So, give us a call right now. We’re here to help you with your how-to projects. Let us solve your DIY dilemmas. Got a décor project? Got to repair, remodel? The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Krista in Vermont is on the line and is dealing with some very low water pressure. Tell us what’s going on.
KRISTA: I bought my house about a year ago and I’m on a shared well with my two other neighbors. And they both have great water pressure but we have really awful water pressure. It takes three hours for the washing machine to run. We cannot use our garden hose. And we’ve had some plumbers come take a look and they said that there must be some kind of restriction in the water pipes, since the other neighbors both have really great water pressure.
TOM: This is not well water. You’re on street water?
KRISTA: We’re on well water.
TOM: You’re on well water. And the well serves all the neighbors?
KRISTA: Yeah, it serves the two neighbors that live north of us.
TOM: OK. Well, I mean they’re right that there could be a restriction. The restriction could be a valve that’s partially closed. It may look open but maybe it’s really closed. It could be, if you have old pipes – do you have old pipes there? How old is the house?
KRISTA: Yeah, it’s from ‘54. Yeah, it is copper.
TOM: Old for plumbing is like 20s, 30s, 40s when they had steel pipes.
TOM: So, ‘54 is going to be copper and decent-quality copper.
So here’s what I would do. I would start testing that water pressure at different points. If you can test it close to where it comes into the house, that’d be the first place to check it.
TOM: You may have to put a tap in the pipe to do that, like an extra little valve to do that. But I would start checking it at different points and see if we can kind of narrow down where the restriction is.
TOM: You have to do a little detective work here. You’re going to find, at some point, it’s restricted. It could be the main water valve, if you’ve got one. Sometimes well systems don’t have those.
KRISTA: Right. The valve in our house was just replaced but I don’t know about the valve at our neighbor’s house, where the well head is. And we were also told by one plumber that we could put a water-pressure tank in the house to fix it. And then another plumber told us that wouldn’t work at all.
TOM: That’s not going to work. You need a – you could – there’s a booster that you could put in. But I would start trying to figure out if this is a problem at the point where the water comes into the house, because that’s going to change the discussion. It’s not your plumbing; it’s the well system. And I imagine you have some rights, since you’re sharing a common well here, to get the same pressure as everybody else.
KRISTA: Yeah. OK.
TOM: And that’s going to have to be a discussion you’ll have with the people that are involved, OK?
TOM: But you’ve got to figure out what you’ve got – you don’t know that yet – and that’s the way to do it. Does that make sense?
KRISTA: Alright. Yes. Sounds good. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project.
LESLIE: Dan in Virginia, you’ve got The Money Pit. What are you working on?
DAN: I’m getting ready to build a steel building. And I was wondering how thick to make the concrete, though. I’ve had different people tell me different thicknesses and everything, so I was just wanting to get you all’s opinion on it.
TOM: OK. So you’re building a steel building, like for a garage?
DAN: It’s going to be part of a garage and part barn.
DAN: It’s 30×50 and it’s 15 feet high.
TOM: And you’re going to put a concrete slab and then build the building above it?
DAN: Yeah. On top of it, yes. And in one section of it, I want to put one of those vehicle lifts in it.
TOM: So, you really need to have a foundation for that. Where do you live in the country?
DAN: I live in southwest part of Virginia: Tazewell County, to be exact.
TOM: Alright. So you do get some winter there, which means the ground is going to get frozen. And if the slab is not properly anchored with a footing underneath it, not to mention the weight of the roof and then the roof with snow and everything else, you’re going to get some – you could have some settling or some cracking.
So, you can do this one of two ways: you can either build a standard foundation out of block or you could do what’s called a “monolithic pour,” which is the concrete basically goes across the floor and then down into sort of a trench around the outside of that building. And that forms, in one piece, the footing and the slab together. And this way, you’ll be in good shape.
Now, in terms of that lift – that vehicle lift – you might even dig it out a little bit more in that area where the lift’s going to be and make that area – the slab a little bit thicker. Just make sure you have some extra support in the middle of the floor. Alright?
I hope that helps you out. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are listening to The Money Pit. Give us a call now to 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home service pros in your area. You can read reviews, compare prices and book appointments online.
TOM: Just ahead, if your siding, sidewalks, decks or patios are looking a bit grimy, we’re going to give you a simple solution that can help make that mess disappear and prevent mildew, moss and more from growing back. We’ll be back with that and more of your calls, after this.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to hear from you at 888-MONEY-PIT so give us a call, right now, with your how-to question. 888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
And we’ve got a great reason for you to reach out to us by phone or by posting your question to The Money Pit community, because we’re giving away the Bonide BurnOut Weed and Grass Killer Pump and Spray today. It features all-natural ingredients. It can be used for organic gardening. It’ll kill unwanted weeds and grasses in gardens, driveways, walkways, patios, around schools and in many other places.
It acts fast. There’s no mixing necessary. It’s worth 39.99 but we’re sending it out to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’re going to head on over to Ohio where Norma is dealing with some roof leaks. What’s going on?
NORMA: In the back of the house, near my glass sliding doors – was leaking.
NORMA: I could see the ceiling there was water coming in around the doors and leaking down into the track for – of the door. And that happened right after we had a really deep freeze here. And I believe the ice froze up, melted some and then froze back up again. And I looked it up and I think it’s called “ice jam” or something like that.
TOM: Ice dam.
NORMA: Ice dam. OK.
NORMA: That was close.
TOM: You were close, yep.
NORMA: Uh-huh. And so I called a roofing company and actually, they came out. And they told me I need a whole new roof, which is going to cost me about $20,000 because I’ve got a lot of roof.
TOM: Of course they did. How old is your roof?
NORMA: We replaced it in 2010 – 8 or 10.
TOM: Well, then that’s …
LESLIE: That’s a new roof.
TOM: Let me ask you something. You’ve got homeowners insurance?
TOM: Well, ice damming is covered by homeowners insurance. You need to call your insurance company, maybe even a public adjuster, and tell them you had ice-dam damage and it needs to be fixed. Because to fix the ice-dam damage, they have to remove the roof. So guess what? You get a new roof paid for by them.
NORMA: Oh. Even if it’s just in one spot?
TOM: Yeah. Because you can’t just fix one spot. An ice dam’s an ice dam. If it’s covered, it’s covered.
NORMA: Oh, OK. And see, the other thing they said – that the roofing around the vent thing that comes out the bathroom – you know what I mean?
NORMA: It’s a vent on top of your roof.
NORMA: And they said that the roofing was sort of – not all the way – it wasn’t laying flat around that. Because I had some …
TOM: Well, look – listen, first of all, I don’t like this roofing company because I just think that they’re telling you a tale here to try to get to your wallet.
LESLIE: To try to get more money.
TOM: I mean the roofs never lay perfectly flat around plumbing-vent flashings because the flashing is under the shingles. And it basically makes the seal between the vent and the roof. So, that’s kind of, you know, not true, alright?
TOM: So I would – first of all, I would call my insurance company, report that you had an ice dam. And if they give you a hard time, find a public adjuster because public adjusters work for you and they get a percentage of the claim. And they usually find a lot more than the insurance-company adjuster does. So they kind of pay for themselves. Let them fight the battle.
But to fix this, the roof comes off. There’s a type of roofing material called “ice-and-water shield.”
NORMA: Yes. That’s what they said I didn’t have.
TOM: It goes up about 3 feet from the edge of the roof, up into the roof, up over the sheathing. And then once that’s down, then shingles go back down on top of that.
TOM: So, that’s what causes it and that’s the fix. And the good news is that homeowners covers it because it’s storm damage.
NORMA: Yeah, it is storm damage. You’re right. OK. I never thought about it like that.
NORMA: Thank you so much.
TOM: Well, you’re very welcome.
NORMA: So I could call my insurance and get that repaired. And the second thing you said was – that I was noting, that I’ve already forgotten. What was the other thing you said?
TOM: What? About the vent – plumbing vent – or about the type of insurance adjuster to use?
NORMA: Oh, yeah. Public adjuster. Is that what you called it?
TOM: Public adjuster. Yep. Public adjuster. Correct.
NORMA: Yeah, OK. Alright. Thank you so much.
TOM: Alright. Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT. Glad we were able to help you out.
We may have saved that young lady 20,000 bucks, Leslie.
LESLIE: She was so excited. She didn’t even know.
Well, if your siding, sidewalks, decks or patios are looking pretty grimy, we’ve got a simple solution that can help make that mess disappear and prevent mold, mildew, moss and more from growing back. It’s a product called Spray & Forget.
TOM: And they have several different formulations. But the one that I’ve been using recently is the House and Deck Outdoor Cleaner. It cleans all types of siding, decks, fences, as well as pavers or brick or concrete patios. It’ll take care of pool surrounds and you can also use it on vinyl and plastic outdoor furniture, all the stuff that gets dingy and dirty and grimy about this time of year.
LESLIE: Yeah. And the best part is that it’s pretty easy to use. There’s no scrubbing. I mean really, it’s very limited elbow grease here, you guys. As the name implies, you just spray it on and Mother Nature takes over the cleaning duties with the rain, the sun and the wind.
TOM: And over time, it keeps all your exterior surfaces clean and it does that safely with no harsh chemicals. You’ll find it at Home Depot, Ace Hardware, Amazon, Do it Best and True Value. And it retails for 19.99. Learn more at SprayAndForget.com.
LESLIE: Gary in Michigan, you have got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
GARY: We have a short circuit. Somewhere in our house, we have a wire that blows our fuse all the time.
TOM: OK. Does it happen because you’re doing anything, like running an appliance or something of that nature?
GARY: No, we just hit the circuit breaker and it goes off.
TOM: What do you mean you hit the circuit breaker and it goes off? You mean you turn the circuit breaker on and it pops right off?
GARY: Well, we pop – yes. Yeah, exactly.
GARY: We bought the house. We didn’t know about it and it’s there now.
TOM: Oh, OK. Well, you’ve got to call an electrician because the circuit breaker is doing its job. If the circuit breaker is not letting you turn that circuit back on, then that circuit is either wired dangerously or it has a bad breaker or there is something wrong with the way it’s all pulling together. So, I think that this is not something you can track down on your own, because you can’t even get the power on. The electrician is going to have to do this with the power off and see if we can trace out that circuit, see what it’s serving.
Do you know – have any idea where it’s going to?
GARY: Yeah, kind of. Yep. There’s …
TOM: Well, is there something not working? Is there lighting not working? Are there outlets not working? Where do you think it’s going? It’s not on, so …
GARY: Yeah, a whole room. Yeah, whole room, yeah.
TOM: So there’s one room. OK.
So, then, what he’ll probably do is – and they’re going to have to open up the outlets and the switches and the lighting fixtures in that room and check out every connection point and see if there’s any evidence. There could be something burning in there. You don’t know. So, you definitely need to have an electrician check it out. I would go to HomeAdvisor.com and find an electrician through there. You can pick one that’s got great ratings and schedule an appointment and see what happens.
But it’s definitely not something you should do yourself. If it was, I’d tell you but this is beyond the average homeowner’s skill set. It’s potentially dangerous and it’s important for your safety and to make sure your house doesn’t burn down. OK?
GARY: OK. Thank you.
TOM: Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Robin in Wisconsin has a question about flooring. How can we help you?
ROBIN: Hi. We’re refinishing our finished basement. And the former owners glued down the carpet on the concrete and we’re scraping off what we can. Do we need to – I want to put in vinyl-plank flooring. Do we need to sand that down or should we put a leveler or is there an underlayment that we can put under? Or is it going to matter if there’s some glue on there?
LESLIE: How much glue are we talking about? Are we talking about inches of it or just some areas of slight unevenness?
ROBIN: No, no. Just little areas of unevenness. And we’ve been sanding it [the best way of] (ph) procedure.
LESLIE: Oh, my goodness. And sanding it is only going to find – gunk up all your sandpaper and gunk up your hand sanders. It only sort of reactivates the glue. It’s kind of strange.
ROBIN: Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. OK.
LESLIE: So, generally, with a vinyl-plank flooring, certain manufacturers might have an underlayment on the backside. Some might recommend something. Most of the times I’d say just follow the manufacturers’ recommendations, because they know what’s best for their product. But for the most part, with a vinyl plank, you’re not going to need any sort of underlayment. Those will either usually overlap and adhere to one another with a double-sided tape or they’ll click and lock. It really depends on which product you’re working with.
But I would say if it’s a thinner vinyl plank and you just get a lot of flex to it, you might see areas of more thickness of the adhesive. But if it’s a bit more rigid vinyl plank, I think you’re going to be able to go right over that and not worry about it.
ROBIN: Oh, perfect. Great. Thank you for your help.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Bill in Michigan is on the line. How can we help you today?
BILL: My wife and I built a house about 10 years ago and we have a 2-car attached garage. And the problem is is that the floor of our garage is not level. And so, when water drops off the car from rain or more particularly, ice and snow, it drops off onto the garage floor and starts to go in different low spots on the floor.
BILL: And a lot of it goes directly towards the wall of our house.
BILL: So I’m wondering if there’s anything we can do to correct that problem without having to remove the floor and replace it.
LESLIE: Can you use something like Abatron or Abocast – I forget which one is the leveling compound – but to build up more on one side? Or will that just automatically try to go flat?
TOM: You know, I’m thinking, Leslie, it’s so much work to be able to deal with a surface this big, to try to get it level again.
I actually think, Bill, it’s frankly going to be easier to tear out the old floor. That might seem extreme but you may be surprised that with the right tool, like a jackhammer, you can have your entire floor torn out in a couple of hours. It breaks up really easily. And then you can properly level it, properly reinforce it and then repour it and be done.
BILL: I was afraid you were going to suggest that. Because the problem is is the floor is sitting on precast concrete beams, because we have a spare storage space underneath the garage. And so the water drips down there.
TOM: Ah. Oh, man.
BILL: So, I could do that, I guess, but I don’t know the likelihood of being able to take concrete off of those precast …
TOM: Yeah, that does – no, that dramatically – I was thinking it’d be over fill dirt like every other one.
TOM: But no, that does make it a lot harder. So I guess you are going to have to look into a floor-leveling compound for this. And there’s a variety of products out there that this can work with. But the key is is it’s not just more concrete; it’s a product that’s designed specifically to stick to the existing concrete floor.
TOM: Because you have the full temperature swing there in Michigan and if you don’t have good adhesion, you’re obviously going to have that second layer chip off. So, it can be done. It’s a bit of a pain in the neck but it definitely can be done.
BILL: Would you suggest a concrete contractor? Do you think they would be familiar with the options there?
TOM: You may be better off having a pro do it, because you really have to set some forms to get this leveled just right. And then you remove them as you go so that it drains (inaudible).
BILL: Oh, how much could you put on top of a floor that I described?
TOM: Oh, you could put 2 or 3 inches, easily.
BILL: OK. OK. I appreciate that.
TOM: You’re welcome, Bill. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: The best way to deal with mold is to prevent it. Kevin O’Connor from This Old House is just ahead with tips to stop mold cold.
TOM: And today’s edition of This Old House on The Money Pit is brought to you by ADT. Introducing ADT Go, the new family mobile safety app and service. Go to ADT.com to learn more today.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And right now on MoneyPit.com, you can enter The Money Pit’s Power Your Summer Sweepstakes for a chance to win the quiet, clean and portable Cat INV2000 Inverter Generator.
LESLIE: Yeah. It’s great for tailgating, camping, on your job site and more. This small but really powerful 1,800-watt generator, it retails for 749 bucks and 99 cents even. But you can win one free, right here, at MoneyPit.com. Enter now through June 10th and you’ll be able to power your entire summer with ease.
TOM: Check out the Power Your Summer Sweepstakes, right now, at MoneyPit.com and enter for your chance to win.
LESLIE: Well, moisture might be great for your skin and giving you a youthful appearance. Heck, it’s even good when you go grocery shopping for fruit and produce. But when it comes to your home, it is the last thing that you want on the inside.
TOM: That’s right. Too much moisture can cause paint to peel and mold to grow but there are ways to prevent it. Here to tell us how is the plumbing-and-heating expert from TV’s This Old House, Richard Trethewey.
RICHARD: Nice to be here.
TOM: Now, we often think of mold being a basement problem but mold is actually more common in the bathroom, isn’t it?
RICHARD: Well, anywhere you combine moisture, air and some food source – drywall or a paper – you’re going to get a mold problem. And the bathroom is a perfect candidate for that.
TOM: And one of the best ways to prevent that is to have good bath ventilation. What are some of the options to choose from?
RICHARD: Well, I think there’s really three. The most common one that we all know is that bath fan. Sometimes, it has an integra (ph) light in it and it sits right in the center of the bathroom. And it turns it on and you exhaust it to outside.
RICHARD: They also make a remote fan now, which you could put a – as the name suggests, you could put a fan up in an attic and it could be the fan for more than one bathroom. And that can be quieter and it can be energy-saving.
TOM: So it’s ducted to the individual bathrooms then but really one motor can basically run everything.
RICHARD: That’s right. And the motor’s efficient and quiet.
RICHARD: And the other thing that you see more and more in these tighter houses is a thing called an “energy-recovery ventilator” or a “heat-recovery ventilator.”
TOM: Alright. Now, how does that work?
RICHARD: Well, just imagine that all the places where you could get air that was both highly humid and filled with odor – that would be bathrooms and kitchens – that leaves through an exhaust duct through this box.
RICHARD: And as that air leaves, it will pass through this energy-recovery ventilator while at the same time, fresh air from outside will pass in the opposite direction across that stale, heated air.
Now, the air doesn’t touch it directly but the heat is transferred to that new air that’s coming in.
TOM: Ah, so we actually take some of that heat that we paid to create – in that smelly, damp, moist air – and we transfer it through this sort of heat-exchange mechanism to the fresh air coming in.
RICHARD: That’s right. That’s right. Yeah, we get the best of both worlds. We get preheated, fresh air into the building while we’re exhausting the stale air out. And with an energy-recovery ventilator, we also can transfer humidity, so we’re not going to be bringing in dry, dry air in the winter. We’ll get some of the humidity that was in the house to stay in the house.
TOM: Now, let’s talk about the switching mechanisms for these, because I think that one of the easiest ways to try to keep mold down in your bathroom and reduce that humidity is to make sure not only that you have the ventilator of your choice but that it runs long enough to do the job. Timers can play an important part there, couldn’t they?
RICHARD: Right. You need enough fresh air in a building and as the building gets tighter, as fuel goes up, people are insulating more and doing all sorts of things to keep the heat and the air in. So putting a timer for 20 or 25 minutes of every hour, to just bring some fresh air in, is actually good to keep ahead of that mold issue.
TOM: And probably the more that you can do this with occupancy sensors and things like that – where you don’t have to depend on your kid, for example, to set a timer when they step out of the shower – makes the most sense, because it’s more of a chance it’s going to actually get used.
RICHARD: I think that’s part of the future, Tom, is this remote-proximity sensor. I think in a bathroom, it should bring on the fan to bring fresh air in, it should bring on a recirc line to bring hot water to the hot-water faucet. And then more and more of that’s being done now with some of these cool home-automation systems.
TOM: Now, let’s talk about venting. Once you take that humid air out of the bathroom, it’s real important that you don’t put it somewhere else where it can do damage, like the attic.
RICHARD: We’ve seen on Ask This Old House all these years, so many times the attic is so filled with mold because the vent pipe has come off of the exhaust fan. You’ve just been dumping highly humid air into this wooden …
TOM: Which is cold and condenses and it’s wet all the time.
RICHARD: Perfect condition for mold, yeah.
TOM: Not to mention the fact that that insulation getting wet really doesn’t do its job very well, either.
RICHARD: That’s right. That’s right. We often see that flexible ducting that’s used on these bath fans also can – if it’s not supported, can provide sag points where moisture will sit in it and that really becomes a mold place.
TOM: Interesting. So it becomes almost a trap, just a plumbing trap, but it’s collecting condensation.
RICHARD: That’s right. That’s right. That’s right.
TOM: Now, what are some other things that you can do to reduce mold in the bathroom?
Specifically, let’s talk about grout or caulk, for example. That’s that one dirty area of the house that you wish you’d get clean but sometimes you just can’t.
RICHARD: Well, they have mildew-resistant caulking and that can do a good job. It’s not going to stop every bit of mildew if you’ve got high, high humidity levels. You can use paperless, mold-resistant drywall in the bathroom. You’ve got to really get rid of that food source, which is any paper or cellulose, where mold wants to grow.
TOM: And always make sure you have a paint that has a mildew-resistant additive to it, as well?
RICHARD: That’s right. That’s right.
TOM: Yeah. So, essentially, if we want to stop mold growth in our bathroom, we need to attack it on all fronts: we need to make sure we keep the humidity down; we ventilate all that warm, moist air; and then any other opportunity we have to choose something that’s mold-resistant, then definitely take that step.
RICHARD: Yeah. Water is the active ingredient that you’ve got to stay ahead of, most importantly, Tom.
TOM: Unfortunately, we need a lot of that in the bathroom.
RICHARD: That’s right.
TOM: Richard Trethewey, the plumbing-and-heating contractor from TV’s This Old House, great advice, as always. Thanks for stopping by.
RICHARD: Great to be here.
LESLIE: Alright. You can catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For your local listings and some great step-by-step videos on home improvement projects you can tackle this weekend, visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House and Ask This Old House are brought to you on PBS by GMC Trucks and SUVs.
Just ahead, working on a child’s room can be a fun, creative adventure but it can also be an expensive adventure, too. We’ll help you save some money on your decorating, after this.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Hey, speaking of HomeAdvisor, it was a very bad week for water heaters in the Kraeutler family and the extended family, I should mention.
LESLIE: What happened?
TOM: Well, first, I get a call from mom and she’s in Florida, you know, many, many, many miles away from where I am.
LESLIE: Right. You can’t just run over and fix something.
TOM: No. I would if I could, Mom, but I can’t because I just can’t hop in the car for the next 24 hours and drive or find a plane.
LESLIE: And imagine all the water that will be all over her house.
TOM: Right. But it turned out her electric water heater stopped working. And I figured, it’s a 12-year-old water heater, it probably had a bad thermostat and/or a bad coil. So, we had had a problem some months ago, when she was up here and the house was vacant. And she got a letter from the water company saying, “You used 10,000 gallons of water.” I’m like, “That’s not good because you’re not there.”
And it turned out it was a leaking valve that was actually leaking into the toilet, so it didn’t cause a problem. But I called – I went online to HomeAdvisor.com and I found a local plumber, a guy named Eric. He went there and he fixed it.
So I found Eric’s number again. I called him. He says, “Is your mom tech-savvy?” I’m like, “Well, not a lot but I can walk her through it.” “Just take a picture of the data plate.” That’s what we did. Got the model number. He showed up the next day. He had the exact part that we needed, changed out the coil, the thermostat. Mom’s good to go. So, problem solved, right?
LESLIE: That’s awesome.
TOM: For one day, we have no problems. Next day, my sister calls. She’s got one of these alerts on her water heater that’s an ADT thing. And it goes off if there’s water under the water heater.
TOM: And she’s like, “I’m at work and this thing went off. I’m in a meeting for two hours. I can’t get there. What should I do?” I said, “Get out of the meeting.” I said, “In the best-case scenario, it’s a slow leak and nothing’s going to happen. But in the worst-case scenario, in 2 hours your house is going to have about 2 feet of water in it if it’s got a major rupture. So, you’ve got to go over there right away.”
So it turned out her 75-gallon power-vent water heater – has one of those motors on top that sucks the exhaust out, because it’s real efficient – had leaked. Luckily, slowly. So I talked her through how to turn the water valve off, turn the gas valve off. Told her to go to HomeAdvisor. She did. And she hooked up with a company in Princeton called Abat and their plumbing team. And I thought this was funny. These are the four guys that showed up, fixed it: Frankie, Frank, Vinny and Joey. I’m pretty sure that we’re all Italian here in New Jersey.
So it’s great. They were funny guys, super professional.
LESLIE: That’s amazing.
TOM: Gave her a great price. Got it done. So both of those guys were found – one in New Jersey and one in Florida – from HomeAdvisor. So, really positive experience. Loved these guys. Great service. And if you need a contractor, I would definitely recommend you checking out HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: That’s great.
Andrea from Ontario, Canada is on the line with a mold question. How can we help you today?
ANDREA: My question (inaudible) regarding black mold. And it’s behind my sink. Between the sink and the backsplash, there’s a little bit of space and this black mold settles in. There’s a lot of moisture, obviously. They’re running the water and it splashes, so – behind and around the sink, as well as around my tub.
I tried bleach. I scrubbed it. We, at one point, took out the caulking and recaulked it but it came back. So I’m at a – kind of a loss what to do with this.
TOM: Mold is going to grow any place that you have an organic material, which could be drywall. Or it could also be, believe it or not, soap scum. It can have organic matter in it and that can feed mold. And so, you have a condition there that’s going to be prevalent to mold regrowth. Even when you clean it, it’s going to come back. You’re not going to permanently prevent it unless you change the environment – the climate – that exists in that particular area.
So, with respect to the tile area, let’s deal with that first. When you retiled – when you recaulked, I’m sorry – did you pull all the old caulk out?
ANDREA: Pulled it all out. Took it all out. It was actually our contractor who said, “Keep it very dry.” “Bone dry,” he called it. And then once we had it all dried out, then he came back and put a layer of this white material. I’m not exactly sure what it was but he finished it all.
TOM: OK. So you’re not quite sure what the product is.
Here would be the steps. When you pull the old caulk out, you need to spray the joint between the tub and the tile with a bleach solution. That’s going to kill any mold spores that are left behind. Then, after that’s dry, one additional step: fill up the tub with water because it makes it heavy and it pulls it down. And then you caulk it.
And when you caulk it, you want to use a product that has mildicide in it. Now, DAP, for example, has a caulk that has an additive called Microban. And Microban will not grow mold; it will prevent it from growing. And so, if you use the right product and you take the step of treating it with a bleach solution first, before you apply it, that helps it to last as long as possible. But again, if you don’t control humidity conditions, eventually it will come back.
As for the sink, the same advice applies. You not only have to clean it, which takes away the visual, but you have to spray it with a mildicide. And so you could mix, say, a 10- to 20-percent bleach solution with water. And then let it dry and that will help prevent it from coming back.
ANDREA: I’ll try that.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you’re working on a kid’s room – maybe there’s a new arrival or you want to update the space for kids who insist they’re not little anymore – this is a project that can quickly eat up a lot of cash.
But here’s a couple of ways to keep those costs in line. First of all, set a budget for yourself. Pay the most for what you hope to use the longest: things like neutral shelving, bookcases, an upholstered chair or a well-functioning desk. This way, they’ll be able to do their homework in there, as well. Think about using pieces for the long run and invest in those. It’s really smart.
TOM: And second, pick up a neutral paint. We’re all for repainting every few years but if you want to do that all the time, the cost is going to really add up, especially if you’re hiring it out. So if you choose a neutral color, it’s going to help reduce some of that. Plus, no matter what furniture the kids sort of morph to over the years, it’ll always look great.
For more tips on ways to save money when you’re redecorating your kids’ rooms, check out “Create a Kids Room That Will Grow with Your Child.” It’s our newest post on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Up next, something is rotten in North Carolina, specifically in a listener’s laundry room. It’s not Denmark; it’s North Carolina in this case. We’re going to help hunt down that foul odor, next. It’s probably a pair of socks that – behind the washing machine. And that tends to happen.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re to help you with your how-to projects. Call it in, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Alright. We’re here to help you with all things, like finding the right pro or working with these two pros right here to answer some questions. Pat in Macon, North Carolina writes: “I have a rotten-egg smell in my laundry room. You smell it when the water is running into the washing machine or into the laundry-room sink. Any idea what may be going on?”
TOM: Yeah. So, when you get a rotten smell or a sulfur smell with water and if it’s all over the house – so if it was in other sinks, then I would tell you that it’s in your water heater. And it’s because the sacrificial anode, which is a rod that goes into the water heater, has essentially worn out and should be replaced, which can be done. If you look at the top of the water heater, you’ll see a big hex nut. You unscrew that, you can pull the rod out, put a new one in.
However, in this case, it’s only in her laundry room, which leads me to believe it’s probably in the drains. Because you can get biogas that forms in those drains, in those traps. And if that happens, it can be awfully smelly. So what you really have to do here is you have to mix up a pretty sturdy solution of oxygenated bleach and pour it down that drain. I would start with the laundry-room sink and let it soak, let it saturate in there. You know, pour it down, let it drain down, let it sit. Put a little more, a little more, a little more until it really does a good job of killing any bacteria that’s in that space. And see if that does it; see if that deals with the odor issue.
The other thing that you might want to do is replace the rubber drain hose from the washing machine. Because if water is sitting in that, it could also grow some bacteria in that place, as well.
Give that a try and see what happens.
LESLIE: Alright. That should do the trick. I mean it’s always weird when you get those tricky odors. And also, check to make sure that there aren’t stinky socks behind the washing machine, stuck between the washer and dryer. It happens. I’ve got two boys. I find weird things all around that laundry room.
Alright. Next up, Debbie writes – she’s from North Andover, Massachusetts and she writes: “What’s the best way to get dark stains off of composite decking?”
TOM: Well, I guess it depends on what the stains are. If the stains are because you spilled a whole bunch of burger grease, that’s one thing. But if the stains are from mildew or algae, then you could use a product like Spray & Forget, where you apply it to the stain and pretty much walk away. Over the next week or two, as the sun starts to activate the Spray & Forget, it will kill that moss, that mold, that mildew, that algae, that lichen. All of those types – they’re all plant growths. And then it will lighten up and it’ll fade away and there’ll be a residual deposit of the Spray & Forget on the deck and it won’t come back.
So, if it’s grease, then you’re probably going to have to mix up something like an oxygenated bleach to try to get that grease out of it, because that’s a whole ‘nother scene.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And it’s interesting. Because it’s composite, you think that a stain is not going to sit.
LESLIE: But something like a grease kind of works its way into that material itself, so it’s like you really have to try to back it up out of there and get that stain out. And that’s why that oxygenated bleach or even a TSP, those are good things to do. But make sure that it doesn’t affect the color or the finish of your composite decking. Because oxygenated bleach or TSP, all those things, you never know what it’s going to do.
TOM: And listen, if that doesn’t work, you can always take the board out and flip it over because they’re good on both sides, right? And so if the …
LESLIE: But that’s interesting. With composites, sometimes you have different grains on opposite sides.
TOM: Yeah. But the color will be the same. So, yeah.
LESLIE: Color will be the same but you might have a different look. So double-check that, too.
TOM: Yep. Good point.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, thank you so much for spending this part of your Memorial Day weekend with us. We hope we’ve given you some tips, some ideas for a project you want to get done now or in the near future as we all roll into this beautiful summer ahead. Remember, we’re here for you, 24/7, at 888-MONEY-PIT and online at MoneyPit.com. We’d love to hear from you, love to get a question or two. If you posted it to The Money Pit community or you called it in, we will get it.
Remember, we are here for you, 24/7. Always available to help with your how-to dilemmas. The number again, 888-MONEY-PIT, or post your questions to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
The post How to Stop Mold from Taking Hold of Your House #0514181 appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re here for you, to help you with your summer home improvement projects. Or maybe you’re thinking about proposing a project for the chillier climate ahead. Summer is great because you can plan those projects and get them done while it’s still comfortable to work outside. If any of that is on your to-do list or maybe you’ve just got a decor job or a closet-organization campaign or a kitchen remake, we’d love to hear the details. Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s appearance, as we ability into the heart of the summer season and preserve spending more and more time outside, well, the ticks are doing the same thing. And they can be quite unsafe, so we’re going to have some tips to help you stay clear, including a homemade repellant that really, genuinely works.
LESLIE: And replacing a irrigate heater isn’t often on a homeowner’s increase radar until it is because it’s seeping. We’re going to share tips-off on what you should be checking for now to avoid want emergency permutations later.
TOM: Plus, do you know the easiest door to break into for any house? It’s often the garage door. We’ll tell you why and share the surprisingly simple gradations you can take to secure that entry.
But first, we want to hear from you. Give us a label, right now, with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. If you do, we’ll toss your list in The Money Pit hard hat because we’re giving away two great tools from our friends at Arrow: a professional electric stapler and nailer and the Arrow Dual-Temp Glue Gun. Those products are going out, with a render of staples and glue lodges and everything you need, to one caller drawn at random. The multitude is 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Joe in California is on the line with a leaky chimney. Tell us what’s going on.
JOE: Well, it’s an aged one from the 60 s, I conclude, but it was beautifully constructed. It’s 15 hoof wide and 2 fibs up and I’m on the second story. But the irrigate "ve been through" the mortar coming in and it’s terrible. It’s like a waterfall in the wintertime.
TOM: So, you say that water is coming through the mortar. Do you know for a fact that it’s coming through in a particular place? Because, generally, when chimneys leak, there’s two areas that we concentrate on. The first is the particularly top of the chimney. And if it’s a masonry chimney, you probably have a clay flue liner. Is that correct?
JOE: Yes, it is.
TOM: Alright. And then so the opening between the clay duct liner and the outside edge of the brick chimney, that has to have a concrete cover on it. And that are required to be sloped away from the flue liner to the outside perimeter. It can’t have any cracks or holes or spreads in it. And very frequently, you have to caulk it, if that does develop, around the flue liner, as well as through the cracks.
The second place that chimneys generally reveal is at their intersection with ceilings. And regrettably, roofers have almost universally lost the skills and capacity that would have enabled them to be able to flashing this common properly between the chimney and the ceiling. Because the proper way to do this is with a two-piece flashing system where you have a base blink that goes underneath the ceiling shingle and up against the side of the chimney. Then counter blink, which is etched into the mortar joint, folds over the outside edge of the chimney and also over the basi flashing.
And the reason that sort of two-piece design is important is because chimneys are always moving and roofs are always moving and they don’t move together. And so, this is sort of a slip brace, so to speak, where they can actually move and displacement with the wind and the heat and the downpour and the expansion and contraction without actually breaking down.
So, I would look at those two areas. And then I’ll just give you one other gratuity. If you have a roof where there’s a lot of water running down before it affects the base of the chimney, in a situation like that, what you want to do is leant a diverter on the roof, midway, to kind of short-circuit some of the liquid that’s running down towards the chimney and race it around the chimney. And that will just simply reduce the publication of spray that’s going in there and potentially revealing through into your house.
JOE: This has got a flat, metal top over the top of the chimney that mostly keeps the rain from coming down the chimney but I haven’t really looked at the vent liner up there. That’s a good point.
TOM: Yep. Take a careful search, Joe, OK?
JOE: OK. Alrighty. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Norma from Delaware on the line who wants to know what size pipes you need to get good adversity in the bathroom.
Norma, that sounds like a personal question. What’s going on at your money excavation?
NORMA: OK. I’m going to install a shower panel.
NORMA: And in order to get good- the right influence, how large-scale do the pipings need to be?
TOM: Right. You said you wanted to install a shower panel? So is this one of these units where it comes in and then fans out to multiple spray intelligences?
NORMA: Yeah, the spurts, right.
TOM: How is your irrigate adversity right now?
NORMA: Nice good. Well, my home is about eight years old.
TOM: Oh, if it’s only eight years old and you have pretty good water pressure, you should be OK with this. I will say, though, that the ocean influence coming out of variou showerheads is not going to be as invigorating as coming out of a single showerhead. So, it’s going to give you good coverage but it may not be as strong. And I don’t think there’s much that you can do about that. If you’ve got normal street stres, that’s how those shower-panel contingents are in place to work. But only be mindful that it’s not likely to be as strong when it’s vanishing to come out of variou managers, because you basically really need more spray to do that.
NORMA: Oh, OK. Well, I inquired with the developer and he told me that from the basement to the shower flooring, I have three-quarter tubes. And then from the flooring to the showerhead, 1/2 -inch.
TOM: And that’s ordinary. That’s normal. So, that doesn’t change anything.
NORMA: Oh, OK. Alright. Thank you so much for your help.
TOM: Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Rick in New Jersey, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICK: When our residence was constructed, in place of the usual wooden committees that are used to trim around the edges of the ceilings and around the bottom of the chamber of representatives, they abuse a plastic composite-type material.
RICK: And it’s used in place of wood and it’s maintenance-free, previous forever, that various kinds of material. With the exception that any sit this grove is- this composite fabric is chipped, it becomes kind of a haven for mold and mildew. And you get green growing there and it’s - you expend a great deal of time and endeavor continually pressure-washing to clean-living it out. So, what I’m looking forward to is some means of sealing- is there some road of sealing this to prevent this mold growth on what is otherwise a maintenance-free material?
TOM: Well, if it’s composite, it may be a product called AZEK- -AZ-E-K. And that’s paintable. And so you could paint those areas and that might tend to seal it in a bit more. Because I think what you’re saying is that the cut regions are probably more absorbent than the surface areas and so you’re getting a bit more moisture. Maybe it’s a net. There’s a little rougher surface there that might be a trap for grime that feeds mildew or algae and that sort of thing.
So, what comes to mind right away is that you simply could draw it. But of course, you know what comes after draw: repaint.
RICK: Exactly. It takes away the maintenance-free aspect of it.
RICK: But is there a type of paint that would be more conducive or last longer, like an epoxy-type paint or something like that?
TOM: Not for a surface area like that. No, you would just use an exterior coat and you would probably prime it first.
RICK: So it wouldn’t be latex. It would be an enamel?
TOM: No, you would use a 100 -percent acrylic latex draw. That’s what AZEK recommends be used. And you too might was intended to take a look at Sherwin-Williams for the decorate make, because I know that they have coats that are specifically reached for vinyl or PVC products, which is what that product is. AZEK is simply an extruded cellular PVC.
LESLIE: Not everybody does this but some contractors tend to skip the pace of replenish gap when it comes to a composite cut. You know, they’re like, “Eh, you can’t see it. It’s OK.” But this could give you the opportunity- if you’re going to colour the edging, as well- to move ahead and replenish any nail depressions. And that’ll certainly hand it almost a more natural wood look, the brushstrokes. It could be a good thing.
RICK: OK. Thank you very much. That’s a great idea.
TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And just ahead, don’t get sick from ticks. We’ll have gratuities and gimmicks to help you from get ticked off, after this.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone, right now, and present us a scold. We’d love to hear what you’re working on. The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home programme before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Don’t ignore, give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT where we can give you a hand with whatever it is you’re "workin on". Plus, if you pay us a order now, you’re becoming to get the answer to your question and a chance to win a really great set of tools to get those projects done.
We’ve got, up for grabs, the Arrow T5 0AC Professional Electric Stapler and Nailer, plus the Arrow GT2 0DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun. Now, these guys have been reaching stupendou tools for 90 times for both pros and do-it-yourselfers.
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LESLIE: Nils in Delaware is on the line with a fly difficulty at a brand-new room. What’s exiting on?
NILS: Girlfriend obtained a historical home that was located in our county seat where all the court houses are. It was built in 1806 and they moved it out of city. And so now we’re redoing it a room at a time but we’re trying to keep it in date, because it’s in the registry. So, I suspect we’ve got to be careful what we do.
But when we opening hours the ceiling in the downstairs bathroom, there was a humongous snake that have been killed in the ceiling.
TOM: Oh, no.
NILS: And all that was left was the bark and she was done when "shes seen" that.
TOM: Wow. That’s freaky.
NILS: But we’ve got all these different types of frogs in the ground. We’ve got a million ticks and now we’ve got these- everybody’s calling them “furnace flies” that sees them. But we don’t have a furnace. We’ve got a boiler but that’s out in what’s called a “potting shed” and it’s a disconnected structure from the dwelling. So I don’t know where these flies are coming from.
TOM: Well, listen, Nils, we can give you some advice on how to tackle the flies. But between the flies and the clicks and everything else that’s going on in this house, I actually think you should just chipped the sting and pick up the phone and call a pest-control adventurer- a licensed pest-control professional. Because they have appropriate tools and the method used and the products that can effectively and safely make this house a great deal less insect-infested.
Now, with the flies, you are able to impel your own fly traps out of apple-cider vinegar. All you do is you take a cup or a container, you settled a duet inches of vinegar- apple-cider vinegar- in it, you cover the top of that jar with plastic, swipe some pits in it that are big enough for the flies to get in and they’ll find their way in there and they won’t be able to get out. So I mean we can give you some sort of home rectifies like that. But if you’ve get this degree of insect infestation in this old house and even the encircle gardens ...
NILS: Oh, no, no, no. There is no infestation in the chamber of representatives. It’s really we’ve got flies that go around the kitchen and her family room. Most of the flooring is like 18-inch planks, 18 inches wide. And we just don’t know where the flies are coming from and how to be disposed of them. And I have to be careful, because our neighbor was killed in a car accident and we’ve inherited all five members of her "cat-o-nine-tails" because they had nowhere to go, I guess.
TOM: Well, I still think that you could have the house professionally considered, safely, even with the swine inside of it. And it’s going to be a lot more effective than shooting them down with any other type of remedy. The authorities have pyrethrin scatters that you can buy over the counter but I time don’t think you should use them.
A professional is going to come in and sometimes parties meditate, “Well, if the professionals come in, they’re using the really strong stuff.” Well, I ever put it this course: they’re using the right stuff and they’re using the liberty extent of it to do the job at hand. Pesticides today are heavily adjusted and they have to be applied very specifically and consistent with the label directions. And they do a pretty good job, because the guys are trained to know how to get it on. And so, considering the level of problem you’ve went going on now, that’s exactly what I would do here. OK, Nils?
TOM: Well, according to the CDC, there are as many as nine different tickings that you can be to be subjected to when being outside this summer. And each of them can carry a dozen or more diseases and some of which are capable of even be serious.
So, to keep yourself tick-free, there are a few picks in the repellants that you can take. First off, you want to use a repellant that contains 20 percent or more DEET, picaridin or IR3535. Now, any of these is going to give you protection that will last several hours.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, you can also use commodities that have been treated with permethrin. You can produces that are pretreated or you can treat attire and gear, like your boots, throbs, socks and tents with those repellants containing 0.5 percentage permethrin. That’s one-half of one percent.
Now, the permethrin actually remains a protector through various bathes, so you don’t have to repeat it for every outdoor undertaking, extremely if it’s on your tent and it’s raining. But do reapply when you should.
TOM: Now, you can also determine your own tick repellant. Essential oils are great for this. So all you need is 2 ounces of hag hazel or vodka, 1 ounce of water and 20 throws each of any three of the following lubricants: you can use geranium, lemon, eucalyptus, lavender, Virginia cedarwood and Alaskan cypress. You mix them up in a spraying bottle, shake well, then apply.
And we’ve went that terminated recipe on MoneyPit.com. Plus, we’ve got a list of plants that you can add around your home that will naturally repel ticks, like lavender, one of my favorites. Only search for “tick repellant” on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Craig in Rhode Island is on the line and he needs some assist with a lavatory makeover. What are you working on?
CRAIG: Well, actually, my second lavatory in my surmount, it’s kind of old. It has a Symmons ocean mixer- a shut-off valve. And actually, I’m looking to replace it. It’s cracked, it has some issues. But I can’t is behind the shower to open the wall up to change it because it’s actually contiguous to my first bathroom shower. It’s a fiberglass, one-piece pop-in.
My first study is take the position out, tile it. But then I "re going to have to" set a shower wash in. I’d have to do a lot more extra work and coin. And then I discover possibly cutting the hole bigger and they have bigger back plates. But I don’t want it to look awkward, as well, you are aware?
TOM: So which is what is wrong with the valve you have there now?
CRAIG: Well, consider, I don’t mull the desegregating valve- I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. But the plate on the shut-off valve, it’s cracked. I likewise have well water. I know it’s been taking a toll on the pipes. The home is 20 years old. I’m pretty sure it’s original to the home, as well. I’ve only owned it for about coming up on two years now and ...
TOM: So you basically are telling me that it’s a cosmetic article?
CRAIG: It is, it is. But I’m redoing the shower and I want to update the fixtures. And like I said, it’s kind of your ordinary accommodation, Symmons, very like a chrome- the kind of cheap, chrome finish.
TOM: Well, search, you have the most inconceivable situation because you have back-to-back plumbing walls. And typically, you design bathrooms so that one side of the wall’s a closet where you can go and tear out the back wall and then you can get to the valves. But in your bag, you’re damned if you do and you’re damned if you don’t, because you either have to take apart the fiberglass shower or you’ve got to take apart the shower that’s mostly coming you started here.
And I don’t really have a good solution for you. I was asking you about the already existing valves because I was just wondering if perhaps- sometimes, plumbers can rebuild all the working parts of that from the action side, from within, and maybe pick up some added faucets that will look like they’ll work in there. I wouldn’t go to the tear-out without at least exploring that.
I, for example, recently had a new shower valve that had to really be replaced. And it turned out that the valves were plastic- inside, some of the valve factors were plastic. The sets? And we sobbing them out and we removed and replaced with brass. And we were able to find those at a plumbing-supply store. And so I didn’t have to actually supplant the faucet.
CRAIG: My next step "il go to"- I’m going to go to a plumbing give and see if they just have an updated various kinds of- modernized Symmons where I could maintain that valve in and everything is kind of pieced together, as well.
TOM: Right. I think that’s a smart-alecky thing. What you want to do is make some characterizations of that and go talk to a knowledgeable person behind the bar and figure out what your options are.
CRAIG: Yeah, yeah. That’s my next stair and it’s not a- I guess I’ll be tiling a brand-new shower.
TOM: Yeah. If you can figure out a highway to make it passable, I think you should do that because you know what?
TOM: Nobody’s going to see that space and I’d hate to see you spend a few thousand bucks redoing it if all you’re trying to get is new valves.
CRAIG: That’s what I’m trying to stay away from. Well, thank you, guys, very much.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Hey, have you checked your spray heater lately? Well, doing so can help you eschewed water-heater difficulties. We’re going to explore that in today’s Pro Project, presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: On this beautiful summer weekend, what campaign are you working on? We’d have liked to hear about it. Give us a announce, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Allison in New York on the line who has an unwanted visitor at their money pit. What’s going on?
ALLISON: My husband- I please he was on with me- but our goal is to humanely capture we believe to be a squirrel that’s ranging between the decline ceiling in our basement. And my husband said, “Two-by-eight joint rafters.” There’s like a 2-inch seat exclusively and ...
TOM: What I require you to do is to go out and pick up a trap called a Havahart trap. Now, these Havahart captures are live catches in that they’re going to catch this squirrel. And then you’re going to pull this trap out and you can take them out to the woods somewhere and release them.
What you do with the Havahart trap is once you get it set up, in the back of the capture whatever it is you require this squirrel to kind of end up, kept an apple back there. And don’t only settled it back there but cable it to the back wall of the capture. Take a piece of depict wire, thread it through the apple and kind of tie it off. Because I’ll tell you what, although there is these captures are good, those squirrels and other small-scale imps can sometimes grab that without tripping the door. But if you wire it to the back of the capture, they don’t have a chance. And determined it near the opening, wherever you can get access to it.
And I’ll tell you, sooner or later, that squirrel is going to wander in that trap and bam, you’ll hear the door slap and they will not be happy. They’ll kind of be invited to participate in circles trying to figure out a highway to get out. But you can cover them with a blanket, prostrate them in the back of your automobile, in the case, and take it out somewhere. And then as you open that up, believe me, they’re not going to stand around to kind of talk about it with you; they’ll precisely bolt. As soon as you face-lift that door, they will bolt into the woods.
TOM: I hope that helps you out, Allison. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for christen us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, according to the experts at ENERGY STAR, sea heaters are the second highest energy user in the home. And expending a sea heater can expenditure a family of four 620 bucks yearly. Now, that is more than enough reason to keep an eye on how your water heater is performing. We’re going to have gratuities on how to do time that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
Now, first off, it’s important to know your water heater’s age. The median life cover of a spray heater is anywhere from 8 to 12 years. And regrettably, there’s no exam or telltale sign that a sea heater needs replacing, of course, aside from a major seep, which you want to avoid.
Now, if the irrigate seems less sizzling, although there is the temperature on your heater has not changed, it could be a sign of a breakdown. Other clues could include leakage around fittings and corrosion on the heater itself or any of the plumbing connections.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, sometimes, a sea heater is feasible to amended. But if it’s getting to that 8- to 10-year-old range, you might just want to hire a pro to oust the entirety group. And take advantage of the improved efficiency that newer liquid heaters can bring.
For example, a new ENERGY STAR-certified electric heat-pump water heater utilizes less than half the vigour of standard water-heater frameworks and can actually save a clas of four roughly $3,750 over its 13 -year life span. Plus, many utilities offer motivations for buying ENERGY STAR-certified spray heaters that are in a position reduce cost and increase savings even more.
TOM: Now, if your home usages natural gas or propane for hot water, another option to consider is tankless ocean heater. A tankless spray heater lasts around 20 years, which is much longer than a traditional container ocean heater. Plus, those tankless legions, well, they’re very small and they can actually be installed closer to the bathtub or the kitchen. That allows the hot water to reach those areas a lot more quickly without running the water needlessly as you wait for it to get warm.
And while they’re most expensive to buy and invest, tankless plans are super efficient and hot the water as you need it, uttering sure you never run out of red-hot water no matter how many adolescents live in the house.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your neighbourhood, equate prices, speak supported reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor stimulates it fast and easy to hire very good local pros.
LESLIE: John in Missouri, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JOHN: I have a pressure-treated wood I’ve use. And I applied it on- I’ve closed it with a solid-stain paint. And it seems that within- after two years, my timber, it are now starting to decomposed. It gets soft. I wanted to know: why is this happening? It’s pressure-treated wood.
TOM: When you stained it, first of all, did you do all sides of the board, includes the bottom rim of the slat? Because very often, that’s where humidity comes gathered in.
JOHN: I did the whole board and I assembled it. And it just seems like it braces the- like a sweat within it. And it was in, like I say, two years it’s - you can almost push on it. It’s soft or it starts rotting.
TOM: Yeah, I suspect that it’s- there’s different beds of pressure-treatment. But I suspect whatever was done to this was not done very well. You know, I had some terrain ties who reportedly pressure-treated. And within a marry of years, they were rotted apart. I stepped on them one day and exited right through it. So, I suspect that the quality of the lumber in this barricade wasn’t really whatever it is you expected it to do.
I’ve taken just plain fir barrier and I’ve analyse it with WOODLIFE and reached sure that the bottom of the barricade was up at least 2 to 3 inches over the grass, because otherwise it gets a lot of moisture that attracts up into it. And I’ve had barricades like that, that I analyse and then I worked a solid-color stain on, last 15 years.
Just because it’s pressure-treated or not well pressure-treated doesn’t mean it can’t last. But I think it’s a combination of the installation and then the management of the stain that was used initially.
JOHN: OK. Because, recognize, I have a boat pier and it’s over the water. And I simply articulated clear sealer over it and you know what? It previous longer than me sealing it with solid-stain paint.
TOM: And it comes down to the quality of the lumber itself. And whatever this fencing is made out of just is not comparable to what your dock’s made out of, John. Sorry to tell you that but I thinks that’s what’s going on. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
JOHN: OK. Well, thanks, and have yourself a great day.
LESLIE: Just ahead, do you are aware which entrance is the easiest entrance to break into for any house? Well, it’s the garage. We’re going to tell you why and share the surprisingly simple steps that you can take to secure that entry, next.
TOM: Where residence answers live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your sees, your questions, your DIY dilemmas at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a responsibility. Really use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project. That’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: And don’t forget, give us a call right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT. Plus, if you pass us a bellow now, you’re going to get the answer to your question, plus some really great implements to assist you get those projects done.
Up for grabs, this hour, we’ve got the Arrow T5 0AC Professional Electric Stapler and Nailer, plus the Arrow GT2 0DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun. These are two great implements from a company that’s been building concoctions for pros and do-it-yourselfers alike for 90 years.
This glue gun heats up fast and facets a drip-resistant adhesive gratuity so that you can control the adhesive move and truly get an accurate point of cement placement, which is so important because you don’t demand it on your paws. You crave it on your project. It’s came so many great features and it’s ideal for upholstery, woodworking, planes, even general home repair.
If you want to learn more about both implements, check out Arrow’s pro-tool giveaway at ArrowFastener.com. There’s even projects on the website, so you are able to never extended out of things to do with your Arrow tools.
TOM: Call we are currently with your residence betterment question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. You might just acquire both implements, plus a supplying of staples, claws and glue affixes. That entire parcel is worth 90 horses and going out to one caller drawn at random. The number, again, is 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Michael in Virginia is on the line and is working on a decking campaign. Tell us about it.
MICHAEL: Hey. So I’ve got a 12 x12 deck that came with the house. And it’s about 20 times old. Some cards are starting to peel up. And I know I’ll is the possibility of get a screw to stick in the sublayment( ph ). Am I able to sister the underlying boards with 2x4s or something to build up the base? Or am I better off replacing all of the substructure together with the deck?
TOM: So, if it’s 20 years old- and it sounds like it’s not pressure-treated- and if the existing floor joists have decomposed to the point where they won’t even braced a pin or a claw, I think it’s time to replace that floor, structure and all. Because your- the clock is clicking now and it’s going to be potentially awfully unsafe in a very short period of time.
So what I would tell you to do is to remove it, change it and be able to use composite for the decorate surface. You can use pressure-treated for the enclose but use composite for the flooring skin-deep. Between the composite and the pressure-treated, you’ll get more than another 20 years out of it.
Now, I’ve looked at composites and price-wise, they’re pretty pricey. Am I going to be able to save a few bucks by going to a heavier-duty, like a 2x6 kiln-dried board and sealing all that when it goes in?
TOM: Well, the thing is you don’t- well, I wouldn’t use 2x6. What I would use it 5/4x6 if you want to go with the timber decking. But you’re going to have to seal and stain that every couple of years. The thing with composites is all you’ve need to go to do is clean it. If you look at a big-box store, like a Home Depot, those composites are not seriously expensive and they look really good.
MICHAEL: Alright. I’ll have to check them out.
TOM: Because recollect, you’re not replacing the floor joists with it. You’re only doing the deck skin-deep. So if it’s 12 x12, it’s 144 square hoofs, it’s 288 lineal feet. It’s probably worth it.
MICHAEL: I determine. Now, we are thinking about expanding it another few paws, too.
TOM: Yeah. Well, that will be the time to do it, you are aware?
LESLIE: So you’re doing- the substructure is still all of the pressure-treated lumber, because you need that for the supporting and then all of the decking itself and the fascia boards- and you are able to even do the railings. All of that can be the composite. And it’s really gorgeous. I have one that’s kind of mid-range but it has an interesting grain to it and virtually looks like an ipe. You can get ones who the hell is super simple and you can get ones that really look strange. And I anticipate that’s where your price point is going to swing a lot.
MICHAEL: Now, how do you deal with the railings and the barricade it in?
LESLIE: So the two posts would come up and that would be the basis for your supports and that would be your pressure-treated lumber. And that would be built up through from the substructure. And then there are sleeves that go over it in the composite. Now, you can get ones that competition your decorate or you can go with white.
MICHAEL: And then for the substructure- now, I am talking about discolouring this out. There are these cement- I don’t know, they’re about a foot by a foot- blocks that you can buy that you can lay your 4x6 across for- they say it’s for decorate in the yard. Am I better off doing that or spewed concrete?
TOM: The authorities have prefabricated status for decks. They look sort of like pyramids but they’re not like 1x1. They’re like 1x1 by about 3 feet tall and they have a place for a bracket on top. I’d use those. They operate really well. They’re a little harder to install because you’ve got to be more accurate with where the hole is. But sincerely, I speculate the easiest thing to do is just to dig it yourself- a 1-foot by 1-foot square that’s a couple of feet depth- and mix up 3 or 4 bags of QUIKRETE and meet that the position. And then you can drop the pressure-treated claim into that. And then if you use the right stage of pressure-treated, it can actually be in-ground.
MICHAEL: Yeah, absolutely. Thanks a lot, Tom.
TOM: You’ve got it. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Do you know which entrance is the easiest doorway to break into for any house ? Well, it’s the garage.
TOM: We’ve got a tip to help you scaped becoming a victim of that kind of breaking and entering.
LESLIE: Yeah. If you’d like to protect your home from intruders, it’s really important that you marks vulnerable spheres around your mansion, like bury distinguishes that is a result of bushes or trees, as well as easy phases of entryway, specially if you’re going out of town.
For example, the garage door may be easier to open than you think. But you can secure it simply by installing a bolt through one of the additional faults in the garage-door tracks. Now, with the bar in place, that door is not "il be going" enabled to roll upwards and the door is going to be secure.
TOM: Now, for everyday exploit, you can integrate a smart-alecky garage-door controller. And that’s a great way to keep tabs on whether the door is opened or closed, from your smartphone. These controllers will not only alert you when the door is open or shut but they’ll even be borne in mind if you drive away and forgotten to close the garage entrance. And then it’ll allow you to open or close that doorway even from miles away.
So some immense options and a great door to make sure you hinder self-assured got to make sure your house abides safe.
LESLIE: Bill in Nevada is on the line with an LED-lighting question. What can we do for you?
BILL: I recently changed service standards, overhead, incandescent igniting fixture with an LED illuminate fixture. The station exited OK; everything directs. But when you turn on the light-colored, there’s a shelve. There’s about a second-and-a-half, maybe a two-second delay before the lightings actually is everything all right. Is that standard? What causes it? And more importantly, is there something I can do about it?
TOM: Yeah, I’ve seen that with some LED fixtures that I have and I never thought it was anything other than ordinary. Resulted bulbs themselves are pretty complicated when you look at all the circuitry. And I really presume that’s what it takes to bring the light up and maintain it at that stage. So I’ve never thoughts twice about that being an issue. But I could see how it might surprise you.
BILL: So you’ve realise it before?
TOM: Oh, yeah. I’ve clearly looked it before.
BILL: Alright. Well, that was the question. I revalue you taking it and "re giving me" a good, quick answer.
LESLIE: Hey, you already recycle but do you upcycle? We’re going to tell you how to step up to the next position of dark-green living, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
And "youre gonna" sung to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show presentation by HomeAdvisor.com. You never have to worry about overpaying for a occupation again. Exactly use their True Cost Guide to see what others have paid for similar projects. Then do matched with top-rated pros, predicted discuss, get repeats, diary appointments. It’s all online and it’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Alright. You can also post your question to The Money Pit’s Community sheet at MoneyPit.com. Greg did just that. He says, “I’m thinking about installing hardwired, integrated some detectors. Is it worth my while? And what should I know beforehand?”
Well, is it worth your while? I don’t know. You strategy on having a fire? I mean you just can’t decide that, Greg, so I’d say yeah, it’s worth your while.
First of all, just for those kinfolks that don’t know what an interconnected inhale detector is, you are aware, in the old days, smoke detectors were individualized. So if one set off, it was only that one unless the inhale fixed its highway to the rest of the house. With interconnected detectors, if a detector goes off, say, in the basement or in the garage or in the kitchen, all the detectors go off at the same time. And that’s important, especially if it happens in the middle of the night, because it gives you more time to get out.
The other thing that you might want to think about doing is adding not only interconnected detectors but those that have dual sensors built into them. That implies it responds to both flare ardors and ones that are slow and smoldering, this is why it covers both kinds of fire. And lastly, remember that a lot of the smart-alecky smoke detectors today, they can do all this without you having to actually race electricity to every single one, because that obliges them all certainly interconnected. And if there’s an area of the house where, perhaps, the authorities have really reverberated sleepers, you are able to even get talkers that work with these things to really elevate up the capacity so that you and your family can be totally safe.
LESLIE: And you know what? Just knowing that you have these in your home renders such a peace of mind. And you know you’re prepared and that’s truly what you’ve came to be- is preparation to keep your family safe.
TOM: Well, you might be a pro at household recycling but have you ever tried upcycling? If you’re not exactly sure what that is, Leslie has got the details and the ideas in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: That’s when you make your recycling bucket and you gave it on the top rack. No? I’m just kidding.
TOM: Haven’t you done entire dwelling pictures based on precisely the upcycling hypothesi: the intuition of meet material around the house and reusing it?
LESLIE: I mean for sure. It’s a matter of finding stuff around the house, knowing trash at thrift stores, experiencing material that’s being thrown away. There’s always a action to utilize something for something else or to time improve the use of something that you’ve once came. It actually does abbreviate squander, save money and it certainly can motivate innovative summertime projects for you and the whole family.
So, if you’re cleaning out the garage or vault, the storage shed, keep your eyes peeled for items that can be transformed into unique home accents. Now, a ignore piece of furniture can easily be upcycled into a ritzy lavatory accessory. An handsome, old-fashioned space can be converted into a table, mirror, message board. You’ve got to think out of the box with these things.
Now, if you need new storage for tools and other paraphernalium, scan online idea boards for inspiration. You may once have everything that you need to create smart organizers and exhibitions: an old-time shutter, an age-old segment of sud card that you wrap with fabric. Always reckon like, “Hmm. What’s this? Can I wrap it with something? Can I confine it with something? If I settled a holder in it, will that do something else?” All of these things can create something new. Something simple as a piece of molding with some grips or drawer drags becomes a jewelry organizer.
Very is easy to do these things. Remember, remember creatively and try to work those upcycling projects into your summer procedure and you’ll end up with some genuinely unique and personalized ensues. And then affix your results. Whatever you build, whatever it is, I want to see it. Post them on MoneyPit.com’s Community section. I want to know what you’re "workin on". And even if you’ve ascertained something and you think, “What can I do with this? ” send it to me. I want to help you.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, July is not a month you was intended to get stranded without air conditioner. If you know what to look for if yours starts acting up, though, there’s a really good chance the correct is an easy one. We’ll tell you what you need to know, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
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