TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’re here for you, to help you with your summer home improvement projects. Or maybe you’re thinking about proposing a project for the chillier climate ahead. Summer is great because you can plan those projects and get them done while it’s still comfortable to work outside. If any of that is on your to-do list or maybe you’ve just got a decor job or a closet-organization campaign or a kitchen remake, we’d love to hear the details. Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s appearance, as we ability into the heart of the summer season and preserve spending more and more time outside, well, the ticks are doing the same thing. And they can be quite unsafe, so we’re going to have some tips to help you stay clear, including a homemade repellant that really, genuinely works.
LESLIE: And replacing a irrigate heater isn’t often on a homeowner’s increase radar until it is because it’s seeping. We’re going to share tips-off on what you should be checking for now to avoid want emergency permutations later.
TOM: Plus, do you know the easiest door to break into for any house? It’s often the garage door. We’ll tell you why and share the surprisingly simple gradations you can take to secure that entry.
But first, we want to hear from you. Give us a label, right now, with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. If you do, we’ll toss your list in The Money Pit hard hat because we’re giving away two great tools from our friends at Arrow: a professional electric stapler and nailer and the Arrow Dual-Temp Glue Gun. Those products are going out, with a render of staples and glue lodges and everything you need, to one caller drawn at random. The multitude is 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Joe in California is on the line with a leaky chimney. Tell us what’s going on.
JOE: Well, it’s an aged one from the 60 s, I conclude, but it was beautifully constructed. It’s 15 hoof wide and 2 fibs up and I’m on the second story. But the irrigate "ve been through" the mortar coming in and it’s terrible. It’s like a waterfall in the wintertime.
TOM: So, you say that water is coming through the mortar. Do you know for a fact that it’s coming through in a particular place? Because, generally, when chimneys leak, there’s two areas that we concentrate on. The first is the particularly top of the chimney. And if it’s a masonry chimney, you probably have a clay flue liner. Is that correct?
JOE: Yes, it is.
TOM: Alright. And then so the opening between the clay duct liner and the outside edge of the brick chimney, that has to have a concrete cover on it. And that are required to be sloped away from the flue liner to the outside perimeter. It can’t have any cracks or holes or spreads in it. And very frequently, you have to caulk it, if that does develop, around the flue liner, as well as through the cracks.
The second place that chimneys generally reveal is at their intersection with ceilings. And regrettably, roofers have almost universally lost the skills and capacity that would have enabled them to be able to flashing this common properly between the chimney and the ceiling. Because the proper way to do this is with a two-piece flashing system where you have a base blink that goes underneath the ceiling shingle and up against the side of the chimney. Then counter blink, which is etched into the mortar joint, folds over the outside edge of the chimney and also over the basi flashing.
And the reason that sort of two-piece design is important is because chimneys are always moving and roofs are always moving and they don’t move together. And so, this is sort of a slip brace, so to speak, where they can actually move and displacement with the wind and the heat and the downpour and the expansion and contraction without actually breaking down.
So, I would look at those two areas. And then I’ll just give you one other gratuity. If you have a roof where there’s a lot of water running down before it affects the base of the chimney, in a situation like that, what you want to do is leant a diverter on the roof, midway, to kind of short-circuit some of the liquid that’s running down towards the chimney and race it around the chimney. And that will just simply reduce the publication of spray that’s going in there and potentially revealing through into your house.
JOE: This has got a flat, metal top over the top of the chimney that mostly keeps the rain from coming down the chimney but I haven’t really looked at the vent liner up there. That’s a good point.
TOM: Yep. Take a careful search, Joe, OK?
JOE: OK. Alrighty. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Norma from Delaware on the line who wants to know what size pipes you need to get good adversity in the bathroom.
Norma, that sounds like a personal question. What’s going on at your money excavation?
NORMA: OK. I’m going to install a shower panel.
NORMA: And in order to get good- the right influence, how large-scale do the pipings need to be?
TOM: Right. You said you wanted to install a shower panel? So is this one of these units where it comes in and then fans out to multiple spray intelligences?
NORMA: Yeah, the spurts, right.
TOM: How is your irrigate adversity right now?
NORMA: Nice good. Well, my home is about eight years old.
TOM: Oh, if it’s only eight years old and you have pretty good water pressure, you should be OK with this. I will say, though, that the ocean influence coming out of variou showerheads is not going to be as invigorating as coming out of a single showerhead. So, it’s going to give you good coverage but it may not be as strong. And I don’t think there’s much that you can do about that. If you’ve got normal street stres, that’s how those shower-panel contingents are in place to work. But only be mindful that it’s not likely to be as strong when it’s vanishing to come out of variou managers, because you basically really need more spray to do that.
NORMA: Oh, OK. Well, I inquired with the developer and he told me that from the basement to the shower flooring, I have three-quarter tubes. And then from the flooring to the showerhead, 1/2 -inch.
TOM: And that’s ordinary. That’s normal. So, that doesn’t change anything.
NORMA: Oh, OK. Alright. Thank you so much for your help.
TOM: Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Rick in New Jersey, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICK: When our residence was constructed, in place of the usual wooden committees that are used to trim around the edges of the ceilings and around the bottom of the chamber of representatives, they abuse a plastic composite-type material.
RICK: And it’s used in place of wood and it’s maintenance-free, previous forever, that various kinds of material. With the exception that any sit this grove is- this composite fabric is chipped, it becomes kind of a haven for mold and mildew. And you get green growing there and it’s - you expend a great deal of time and endeavor continually pressure-washing to clean-living it out. So, what I’m looking forward to is some means of sealing- is there some road of sealing this to prevent this mold growth on what is otherwise a maintenance-free material?
TOM: Well, if it’s composite, it may be a product called AZEK- -AZ-E-K. And that’s paintable. And so you could paint those areas and that might tend to seal it in a bit more. Because I think what you’re saying is that the cut regions are probably more absorbent than the surface areas and so you’re getting a bit more moisture. Maybe it’s a net. There’s a little rougher surface there that might be a trap for grime that feeds mildew or algae and that sort of thing.
So, what comes to mind right away is that you simply could draw it. But of course, you know what comes after draw: repaint.
RICK: Exactly. It takes away the maintenance-free aspect of it.
RICK: But is there a type of paint that would be more conducive or last longer, like an epoxy-type paint or something like that?
TOM: Not for a surface area like that. No, you would just use an exterior coat and you would probably prime it first.
RICK: So it wouldn’t be latex. It would be an enamel?
TOM: No, you would use a 100 -percent acrylic latex draw. That’s what AZEK recommends be used. And you too might was intended to take a look at Sherwin-Williams for the decorate make, because I know that they have coats that are specifically reached for vinyl or PVC products, which is what that product is. AZEK is simply an extruded cellular PVC.
LESLIE: Not everybody does this but some contractors tend to skip the pace of replenish gap when it comes to a composite cut. You know, they’re like, “Eh, you can’t see it. It’s OK.” But this could give you the opportunity- if you’re going to colour the edging, as well- to move ahead and replenish any nail depressions. And that’ll certainly hand it almost a more natural wood look, the brushstrokes. It could be a good thing.
RICK: OK. Thank you very much. That’s a great idea.
TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And just ahead, don’t get sick from ticks. We’ll have gratuities and gimmicks to help you from get ticked off, after this.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone, right now, and present us a scold. We’d love to hear what you’re working on. The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home programme before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Don’t ignore, give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT where we can give you a hand with whatever it is you’re "workin on". Plus, if you pay us a order now, you’re becoming to get the answer to your question and a chance to win a really great set of tools to get those projects done.
We’ve got, up for grabs, the Arrow T5 0AC Professional Electric Stapler and Nailer, plus the Arrow GT2 0DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun. Now, these guys have been reaching stupendou tools for 90 times for both pros and do-it-yourselfers.
And Arrow really knows what they’re doing. That electrical stapler and nailer delivers consistent pro-grade performance with every fire. And I’ve must tell you that this adhesive gun is my favorite. I love the dual temperatures. It succeeds great on differently constituted surfaces. You can make sure whatever you’re adhering to one another is not going to melt. It’s genuinely going to stick.
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LESLIE: Nils in Delaware is on the line with a fly difficulty at a brand-new room. What’s exiting on?
NILS: Girlfriend obtained a historical home that was located in our county seat where all the court houses are. It was built in 1806 and they moved it out of city. And so now we’re redoing it a room at a time but we’re trying to keep it in date, because it’s in the registry. So, I suspect we’ve got to be careful what we do.
But when we opening hours the ceiling in the downstairs bathroom, there was a humongous snake that have been killed in the ceiling.
TOM: Oh, no.
NILS: And all that was left was the bark and she was done when "shes seen" that.
TOM: Wow. That’s freaky.
NILS: But we’ve got all these different types of frogs in the ground. We’ve got a million ticks and now we’ve got these- everybody’s calling them “furnace flies” that sees them. But we don’t have a furnace. We’ve got a boiler but that’s out in what’s called a “potting shed” and it’s a disconnected structure from the dwelling. So I don’t know where these flies are coming from.
TOM: Well, listen, Nils, we can give you some advice on how to tackle the flies. But between the flies and the clicks and everything else that’s going on in this house, I actually think you should just chipped the sting and pick up the phone and call a pest-control adventurer- a licensed pest-control professional. Because they have appropriate tools and the method used and the products that can effectively and safely make this house a great deal less insect-infested.
Now, with the flies, you are able to impel your own fly traps out of apple-cider vinegar. All you do is you take a cup or a container, you settled a duet inches of vinegar- apple-cider vinegar- in it, you cover the top of that jar with plastic, swipe some pits in it that are big enough for the flies to get in and they’ll find their way in there and they won’t be able to get out. So I mean we can give you some sort of home rectifies like that. But if you’ve get this degree of insect infestation in this old house and even the encircle gardens ...
NILS: Oh, no, no, no. There is no infestation in the chamber of representatives. It’s really we’ve got flies that go around the kitchen and her family room. Most of the flooring is like 18-inch planks, 18 inches wide. And we just don’t know where the flies are coming from and how to be disposed of them. And I have to be careful, because our neighbor was killed in a car accident and we’ve inherited all five members of her "cat-o-nine-tails" because they had nowhere to go, I guess.
TOM: Well, I still think that you could have the house professionally considered, safely, even with the swine inside of it. And it’s going to be a lot more effective than shooting them down with any other type of remedy. The authorities have pyrethrin scatters that you can buy over the counter but I time don’t think you should use them.
A professional is going to come in and sometimes parties meditate, “Well, if the professionals come in, they’re using the really strong stuff.” Well, I ever put it this course: they’re using the right stuff and they’re using the liberty extent of it to do the job at hand. Pesticides today are heavily adjusted and they have to be applied very specifically and consistent with the label directions. And they do a pretty good job, because the guys are trained to know how to get it on. And so, considering the level of problem you’ve went going on now, that’s exactly what I would do here. OK, Nils?
TOM: Well, according to the CDC, there are as many as nine different tickings that you can be to be subjected to when being outside this summer. And each of them can carry a dozen or more diseases and some of which are capable of even be serious.
So, to keep yourself tick-free, there are a few picks in the repellants that you can take. First off, you want to use a repellant that contains 20 percent or more DEET, picaridin or IR3535. Now, any of these is going to give you protection that will last several hours.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, you can also use commodities that have been treated with permethrin. You can produces that are pretreated or you can treat attire and gear, like your boots, throbs, socks and tents with those repellants containing 0.5 percentage permethrin. That’s one-half of one percent.
Now, the permethrin actually remains a protector through various bathes, so you don’t have to repeat it for every outdoor undertaking, extremely if it’s on your tent and it’s raining. But do reapply when you should.
TOM: Now, you can also determine your own tick repellant. Essential oils are great for this. So all you need is 2 ounces of hag hazel or vodka, 1 ounce of water and 20 throws each of any three of the following lubricants: you can use geranium, lemon, eucalyptus, lavender, Virginia cedarwood and Alaskan cypress. You mix them up in a spraying bottle, shake well, then apply.
And we’ve went that terminated recipe on MoneyPit.com. Plus, we’ve got a list of plants that you can add around your home that will naturally repel ticks, like lavender, one of my favorites. Only search for “tick repellant” on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Craig in Rhode Island is on the line and he needs some assist with a lavatory makeover. What are you working on?
CRAIG: Well, actually, my second lavatory in my surmount, it’s kind of old. It has a Symmons ocean mixer- a shut-off valve. And actually, I’m looking to replace it. It’s cracked, it has some issues. But I can’t is behind the shower to open the wall up to change it because it’s actually contiguous to my first bathroom shower. It’s a fiberglass, one-piece pop-in.
My first study is take the position out, tile it. But then I "re going to have to" set a shower wash in. I’d have to do a lot more extra work and coin. And then I discover possibly cutting the hole bigger and they have bigger back plates. But I don’t want it to look awkward, as well, you are aware?
TOM: So which is what is wrong with the valve you have there now?
CRAIG: Well, consider, I don’t mull the desegregating valve- I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. But the plate on the shut-off valve, it’s cracked. I likewise have well water. I know it’s been taking a toll on the pipes. The home is 20 years old. I’m pretty sure it’s original to the home, as well. I’ve only owned it for about coming up on two years now and ...
TOM: So you basically are telling me that it’s a cosmetic article?
CRAIG: It is, it is. But I’m redoing the shower and I want to update the fixtures. And like I said, it’s kind of your ordinary accommodation, Symmons, very like a chrome- the kind of cheap, chrome finish.
TOM: Well, search, you have the most inconceivable situation because you have back-to-back plumbing walls. And typically, you design bathrooms so that one side of the wall’s a closet where you can go and tear out the back wall and then you can get to the valves. But in your bag, you’re damned if you do and you’re damned if you don’t, because you either have to take apart the fiberglass shower or you’ve got to take apart the shower that’s mostly coming you started here.
And I don’t really have a good solution for you. I was asking you about the already existing valves because I was just wondering if perhaps- sometimes, plumbers can rebuild all the working parts of that from the action side, from within, and maybe pick up some added faucets that will look like they’ll work in there. I wouldn’t go to the tear-out without at least exploring that.
I, for example, recently had a new shower valve that had to really be replaced. And it turned out that the valves were plastic- inside, some of the valve factors were plastic. The sets? And we sobbing them out and we removed and replaced with brass. And we were able to find those at a plumbing-supply store. And so I didn’t have to actually supplant the faucet.
CRAIG: My next step "il go to"- I’m going to go to a plumbing give and see if they just have an updated various kinds of- modernized Symmons where I could maintain that valve in and everything is kind of pieced together, as well.
TOM: Right. I think that’s a smart-alecky thing. What you want to do is make some characterizations of that and go talk to a knowledgeable person behind the bar and figure out what your options are.
CRAIG: Yeah, yeah. That’s my next stair and it’s not a- I guess I’ll be tiling a brand-new shower.
TOM: Yeah. If you can figure out a highway to make it passable, I think you should do that because you know what?
TOM: Nobody’s going to see that space and I’d hate to see you spend a few thousand bucks redoing it if all you’re trying to get is new valves.
CRAIG: That’s what I’m trying to stay away from. Well, thank you, guys, very much.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Hey, have you checked your spray heater lately? Well, doing so can help you eschewed water-heater difficulties. We’re going to explore that in today’s Pro Project, presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: On this beautiful summer weekend, what campaign are you working on? We’d have liked to hear about it. Give us a announce, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Allison in New York on the line who has an unwanted visitor at their money pit. What’s going on?
ALLISON: My husband- I please he was on with me- but our goal is to humanely capture we believe to be a squirrel that’s ranging between the decline ceiling in our basement. And my husband said, “Two-by-eight joint rafters.” There’s like a 2-inch seat exclusively and ...
TOM: What I require you to do is to go out and pick up a trap called a Havahart trap. Now, these Havahart captures are live catches in that they’re going to catch this squirrel. And then you’re going to pull this trap out and you can take them out to the woods somewhere and release them.
What you do with the Havahart trap is once you get it set up, in the back of the capture whatever it is you require this squirrel to kind of end up, kept an apple back there. And don’t only settled it back there but cable it to the back wall of the capture. Take a piece of depict wire, thread it through the apple and kind of tie it off. Because I’ll tell you what, although there is these captures are good, those squirrels and other small-scale imps can sometimes grab that without tripping the door. But if you wire it to the back of the capture, they don’t have a chance. And determined it near the opening, wherever you can get access to it.
And I’ll tell you, sooner or later, that squirrel is going to wander in that trap and bam, you’ll hear the door slap and they will not be happy. They’ll kind of be invited to participate in circles trying to figure out a highway to get out. But you can cover them with a blanket, prostrate them in the back of your automobile, in the case, and take it out somewhere. And then as you open that up, believe me, they’re not going to stand around to kind of talk about it with you; they’ll precisely bolt. As soon as you face-lift that door, they will bolt into the woods.
TOM: I hope that helps you out, Allison. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for christen us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, according to the experts at ENERGY STAR, sea heaters are the second highest energy user in the home. And expending a sea heater can expenditure a family of four 620 bucks yearly. Now, that is more than enough reason to keep an eye on how your water heater is performing. We’re going to have gratuities on how to do time that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
Now, first off, it’s important to know your water heater’s age. The median life cover of a spray heater is anywhere from 8 to 12 years. And regrettably, there’s no exam or telltale sign that a sea heater needs replacing, of course, aside from a major seep, which you want to avoid.
Now, if the irrigate seems less sizzling, although there is the temperature on your heater has not changed, it could be a sign of a breakdown. Other clues could include leakage around fittings and corrosion on the heater itself or any of the plumbing connections.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, sometimes, a sea heater is feasible to amended. But if it’s getting to that 8- to 10-year-old range, you might just want to hire a pro to oust the entirety group. And take advantage of the improved efficiency that newer liquid heaters can bring.
For example, a new ENERGY STAR-certified electric heat-pump water heater utilizes less than half the vigour of standard water-heater frameworks and can actually save a clas of four roughly $3,750 over its 13 -year life span. Plus, many utilities offer motivations for buying ENERGY STAR-certified spray heaters that are in a position reduce cost and increase savings even more.
TOM: Now, if your home usages natural gas or propane for hot water, another option to consider is tankless ocean heater. A tankless spray heater lasts around 20 years, which is much longer than a traditional container ocean heater. Plus, those tankless legions, well, they’re very small and they can actually be installed closer to the bathtub or the kitchen. That allows the hot water to reach those areas a lot more quickly without running the water needlessly as you wait for it to get warm.
And while they’re most expensive to buy and invest, tankless plans are super efficient and hot the water as you need it, uttering sure you never run out of red-hot water no matter how many adolescents live in the house.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your neighbourhood, equate prices, speak supported reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor stimulates it fast and easy to hire very good local pros.
LESLIE: John in Missouri, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JOHN: I have a pressure-treated wood I’ve use. And I applied it on- I’ve closed it with a solid-stain paint. And it seems that within- after two years, my timber, it are now starting to decomposed. It gets soft. I wanted to know: why is this happening? It’s pressure-treated wood.
TOM: When you stained it, first of all, did you do all sides of the board, includes the bottom rim of the slat? Because very often, that’s where humidity comes gathered in.
JOHN: I did the whole board and I assembled it. And it just seems like it braces the- like a sweat within it. And it was in, like I say, two years it’s - you can almost push on it. It’s soft or it starts rotting.
TOM: Yeah, I suspect that it’s- there’s different beds of pressure-treatment. But I suspect whatever was done to this was not done very well. You know, I had some terrain ties who reportedly pressure-treated. And within a marry of years, they were rotted apart. I stepped on them one day and exited right through it. So, I suspect that the quality of the lumber in this barricade wasn’t really whatever it is you expected it to do.
I’ve taken just plain fir barrier and I’ve analyse it with WOODLIFE and reached sure that the bottom of the barricade was up at least 2 to 3 inches over the grass, because otherwise it gets a lot of moisture that attracts up into it. And I’ve had barricades like that, that I analyse and then I worked a solid-color stain on, last 15 years.
Just because it’s pressure-treated or not well pressure-treated doesn’t mean it can’t last. But I think it’s a combination of the installation and then the management of the stain that was used initially.
JOHN: OK. Because, recognize, I have a boat pier and it’s over the water. And I simply articulated clear sealer over it and you know what? It previous longer than me sealing it with solid-stain paint.
TOM: And it comes down to the quality of the lumber itself. And whatever this fencing is made out of just is not comparable to what your dock’s made out of, John. Sorry to tell you that but I thinks that’s what’s going on. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
JOHN: OK. Well, thanks, and have yourself a great day.
LESLIE: Just ahead, do you are aware which entrance is the easiest entrance to break into for any house? Well, it’s the garage. We’re going to tell you why and share the surprisingly simple steps that you can take to secure that entry, next.
TOM: Where residence answers live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your sees, your questions, your DIY dilemmas at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a responsibility. Really use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project. That’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: And don’t forget, give us a call right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT. Plus, if you pass us a bellow now, you’re going to get the answer to your question, plus some really great implements to assist you get those projects done.
Up for grabs, this hour, we’ve got the Arrow T5 0AC Professional Electric Stapler and Nailer, plus the Arrow GT2 0DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun. These are two great implements from a company that’s been building concoctions for pros and do-it-yourselfers alike for 90 years.
This glue gun heats up fast and facets a drip-resistant adhesive gratuity so that you can control the adhesive move and truly get an accurate point of cement placement, which is so important because you don’t demand it on your paws. You crave it on your project. It’s came so many great features and it’s ideal for upholstery, woodworking, planes, even general home repair.
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TOM: Call we are currently with your residence betterment question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. You might just acquire both implements, plus a supplying of staples, claws and glue affixes. That entire parcel is worth 90 horses and going out to one caller drawn at random. The number, again, is 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Michael in Virginia is on the line and is working on a decking campaign. Tell us about it.
MICHAEL: Hey. So I’ve got a 12 x12 deck that came with the house. And it’s about 20 times old. Some cards are starting to peel up. And I know I’ll is the possibility of get a screw to stick in the sublayment( ph ). Am I able to sister the underlying boards with 2x4s or something to build up the base? Or am I better off replacing all of the substructure together with the deck?
TOM: So, if it’s 20 years old- and it sounds like it’s not pressure-treated- and if the existing floor joists have decomposed to the point where they won’t even braced a pin or a claw, I think it’s time to replace that floor, structure and all. Because your- the clock is clicking now and it’s going to be potentially awfully unsafe in a very short period of time.
So what I would tell you to do is to remove it, change it and be able to use composite for the decorate surface. You can use pressure-treated for the enclose but use composite for the flooring skin-deep. Between the composite and the pressure-treated, you’ll get more than another 20 years out of it.
Now, I’ve looked at composites and price-wise, they’re pretty pricey. Am I going to be able to save a few bucks by going to a heavier-duty, like a 2x6 kiln-dried board and sealing all that when it goes in?
TOM: Well, the thing is you don’t- well, I wouldn’t use 2x6. What I would use it 5/4x6 if you want to go with the timber decking. But you’re going to have to seal and stain that every couple of years. The thing with composites is all you’ve need to go to do is clean it. If you look at a big-box store, like a Home Depot, those composites are not seriously expensive and they look really good.
MICHAEL: Alright. I’ll have to check them out.
TOM: Because recollect, you’re not replacing the floor joists with it. You’re only doing the deck skin-deep. So if it’s 12 x12, it’s 144 square hoofs, it’s 288 lineal feet. It’s probably worth it.
MICHAEL: I determine. Now, we are thinking about expanding it another few paws, too.
TOM: Yeah. Well, that will be the time to do it, you are aware?
LESLIE: So you’re doing- the substructure is still all of the pressure-treated lumber, because you need that for the supporting and then all of the decking itself and the fascia boards- and you are able to even do the railings. All of that can be the composite. And it’s really gorgeous. I have one that’s kind of mid-range but it has an interesting grain to it and virtually looks like an ipe. You can get ones who the hell is super simple and you can get ones that really look strange. And I anticipate that’s where your price point is going to swing a lot.
MICHAEL: Now, how do you deal with the railings and the barricade it in?
LESLIE: So the two posts would come up and that would be the basis for your supports and that would be your pressure-treated lumber. And that would be built up through from the substructure. And then there are sleeves that go over it in the composite. Now, you can get ones that competition your decorate or you can go with white.
MICHAEL: And then for the substructure- now, I am talking about discolouring this out. There are these cement- I don’t know, they’re about a foot by a foot- blocks that you can buy that you can lay your 4x6 across for- they say it’s for decorate in the yard. Am I better off doing that or spewed concrete?
TOM: The authorities have prefabricated status for decks. They look sort of like pyramids but they’re not like 1x1. They’re like 1x1 by about 3 feet tall and they have a place for a bracket on top. I’d use those. They operate really well. They’re a little harder to install because you’ve got to be more accurate with where the hole is. But sincerely, I speculate the easiest thing to do is just to dig it yourself- a 1-foot by 1-foot square that’s a couple of feet depth- and mix up 3 or 4 bags of QUIKRETE and meet that the position. And then you can drop the pressure-treated claim into that. And then if you use the right stage of pressure-treated, it can actually be in-ground.
MICHAEL: Yeah, absolutely. Thanks a lot, Tom.
TOM: You’ve got it. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Do you know which entrance is the easiest doorway to break into for any house ? Well, it’s the garage.
TOM: We’ve got a tip to help you scaped becoming a victim of that kind of breaking and entering.
LESLIE: Yeah. If you’d like to protect your home from intruders, it’s really important that you marks vulnerable spheres around your mansion, like bury distinguishes that is a result of bushes or trees, as well as easy phases of entryway, specially if you’re going out of town.
For example, the garage door may be easier to open than you think. But you can secure it simply by installing a bolt through one of the additional faults in the garage-door tracks. Now, with the bar in place, that door is not "il be going" enabled to roll upwards and the door is going to be secure.
TOM: Now, for everyday exploit, you can integrate a smart-alecky garage-door controller. And that’s a great way to keep tabs on whether the door is opened or closed, from your smartphone. These controllers will not only alert you when the door is open or shut but they’ll even be borne in mind if you drive away and forgotten to close the garage entrance. And then it’ll allow you to open or close that doorway even from miles away.
So some immense options and a great door to make sure you hinder self-assured got to make sure your house abides safe.
LESLIE: Bill in Nevada is on the line with an LED-lighting question. What can we do for you?
BILL: I recently changed service standards, overhead, incandescent igniting fixture with an LED illuminate fixture. The station exited OK; everything directs. But when you turn on the light-colored, there’s a shelve. There’s about a second-and-a-half, maybe a two-second delay before the lightings actually is everything all right. Is that standard? What causes it? And more importantly, is there something I can do about it?
TOM: Yeah, I’ve seen that with some LED fixtures that I have and I never thought it was anything other than ordinary. Resulted bulbs themselves are pretty complicated when you look at all the circuitry. And I really presume that’s what it takes to bring the light up and maintain it at that stage. So I’ve never thoughts twice about that being an issue. But I could see how it might surprise you.
BILL: So you’ve realise it before?
TOM: Oh, yeah. I’ve clearly looked it before.
BILL: Alright. Well, that was the question. I revalue you taking it and "re giving me" a good, quick answer.
LESLIE: Hey, you already recycle but do you upcycle? We’re going to tell you how to step up to the next position of dark-green living, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
And "youre gonna" sung to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show presentation by HomeAdvisor.com. You never have to worry about overpaying for a occupation again. Exactly use their True Cost Guide to see what others have paid for similar projects. Then do matched with top-rated pros, predicted discuss, get repeats, diary appointments. It’s all online and it’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Alright. You can also post your question to The Money Pit’s Community sheet at MoneyPit.com. Greg did just that. He says, “I’m thinking about installing hardwired, integrated some detectors. Is it worth my while? And what should I know beforehand?”
Well, is it worth your while? I don’t know. You strategy on having a fire? I mean you just can’t decide that, Greg, so I’d say yeah, it’s worth your while.
First of all, just for those kinfolks that don’t know what an interconnected inhale detector is, you are aware, in the old days, smoke detectors were individualized. So if one set off, it was only that one unless the inhale fixed its highway to the rest of the house. With interconnected detectors, if a detector goes off, say, in the basement or in the garage or in the kitchen, all the detectors go off at the same time. And that’s important, especially if it happens in the middle of the night, because it gives you more time to get out.
The other thing that you might want to think about doing is adding not only interconnected detectors but those that have dual sensors built into them. That implies it responds to both flare ardors and ones that are slow and smoldering, this is why it covers both kinds of fire. And lastly, remember that a lot of the smart-alecky smoke detectors today, they can do all this without you having to actually race electricity to every single one, because that obliges them all certainly interconnected. And if there’s an area of the house where, perhaps, the authorities have really reverberated sleepers, you are able to even get talkers that work with these things to really elevate up the capacity so that you and your family can be totally safe.
LESLIE: And you know what? Just knowing that you have these in your home renders such a peace of mind. And you know you’re prepared and that’s truly what you’ve came to be- is preparation to keep your family safe.
TOM: Well, you might be a pro at household recycling but have you ever tried upcycling? If you’re not exactly sure what that is, Leslie has got the details and the ideas in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: That’s when you make your recycling bucket and you gave it on the top rack. No? I’m just kidding.
TOM: Haven’t you done entire dwelling pictures based on precisely the upcycling hypothesi: the intuition of meet material around the house and reusing it?
LESLIE: I mean for sure. It’s a matter of finding stuff around the house, knowing trash at thrift stores, experiencing material that’s being thrown away. There’s always a action to utilize something for something else or to time improve the use of something that you’ve once came. It actually does abbreviate squander, save money and it certainly can motivate innovative summertime projects for you and the whole family.
So, if you’re cleaning out the garage or vault, the storage shed, keep your eyes peeled for items that can be transformed into unique home accents. Now, a ignore piece of furniture can easily be upcycled into a ritzy lavatory accessory. An handsome, old-fashioned space can be converted into a table, mirror, message board. You’ve got to think out of the box with these things.
Now, if you need new storage for tools and other paraphernalium, scan online idea boards for inspiration. You may once have everything that you need to create smart organizers and exhibitions: an old-time shutter, an age-old segment of sud card that you wrap with fabric. Always reckon like, “Hmm. What’s this? Can I wrap it with something? Can I confine it with something? If I settled a holder in it, will that do something else?” All of these things can create something new. Something simple as a piece of molding with some grips or drawer drags becomes a jewelry organizer.
Very is easy to do these things. Remember, remember creatively and try to work those upcycling projects into your summer procedure and you’ll end up with some genuinely unique and personalized ensues. And then affix your results. Whatever you build, whatever it is, I want to see it. Post them on MoneyPit.com’s Community section. I want to know what you’re "workin on". And even if you’ve ascertained something and you think, “What can I do with this? ” send it to me. I want to help you.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, July is not a month you was intended to get stranded without air conditioner. If you know what to look for if yours starts acting up, though, there’s a really good chance the correct is an easy one. We’ll tell you what you need to know, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No parcel of this record or audio record may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Production, Inc .)
. Plumb Bob.
A plumb bob is a weighted things linked to a string that can be utilized to develop a vertical line. That weighted item can be as easy as a rock or as sophisticated as the brass plumb bob revealed. Some are bullet- or cone-shaped, however in the DIY world they ’ re frequently in the guise of a chalk box or chalk line..
Plumb bobs have actually been around a
very long time. If walls are “ plumb ” or completely vertical, Egyptians utilized them to construct the pyramids and home builders throughout the ages have actually utilized them to identify. They ’ re “perfect” for jobs like focusing lights over a kitchen area island, figuring out the appropriate spacing of recessed lights or framing basement walls.
From Source Article: familyhandyman.com
A tree in your landscape can be a thing of beauty. But after it’s gone, the stump left behind is not so beautiful. It’s a tripping hazard, can damage your lawn mower as you try to mow around it, attract insects, and let’s face it — sawn-off trunks just don’t look great! Stump removal is your only option.
But unfortunately, removing that stub of a tree that’s left is more difficult than you might think. It’s connected to a root system that once anchored a tree, keeping it upright in all kinds of wind and weather. In fact, the root system of most trees roughly mirrors the size and height of the tree itself, spreading as far out and down as the branches reached out and up.
After the tree is gone, those roots are still attached to the stump, clamping it firmly in place in the ground. The roots will eventually decay, returning nutrients to the soil, but the stump itself can take as long as 10 years to break down. Do you really want to work around that eyesore for the next decade?
Unless you lead with your checkbook, there’s nothing “easy” about stump removal. But if your willing to trade-off waiting time for expense, there’s a number of ways to eliminate the stumps for very little cost. Here are a few different methods to choose from.
The most common method of stump removal is grinding, but that job is about as far from DIY as you can get. You’ll need to hire a tree service who’ll use a specialized stump grinder, a machine resembling a torture machine from the scariest horror movie you can imagine. The toll features a spinning circular grinding blade that is plunged into the ground again and again to chew up the stump and reduce it to sawdust.
It happens fast, but the average cost for having a stump ground is $300, and prices can go as high as $900. If you have several stumps to deal with, you can pay an hourly rate, but at $150 or more an hour that can add up quickly.
Manual Tree Stump Removal
For the hearty do-it-yourselfer, digging out a medium-to-small sized stump can be done in an afternoon. Here are the steps.Dig around the stump with a pointed shovel to expose the roots. Extend the hole a few feet out from the stump to give yourself room to maneuver. Cut through the exposed roots. It helps to have a variety of tools on hand, to get through compacted soil and different sizes of roots. Good tools for this part of the project include a lopper, pruning saw, ax, and digging bar. Continue to work your way through roots and soil until you can rock the stump back and forth. Push the trunk to one side with a pry bar and cut through the exposed roots. Repeat, making your way around the trunk to get at the roots on all sides. Continue until the root ball is cut free. Remove and fill the hole with soil.
Chemical Tree Stump Removal
Stump removal chemicals are sold online and in home improvement stores. They generally contain potassium nitrate, which speeds up the microbial process of decomposition. They may be in liquid form or a powder, to which you add water. You will want to keep kids and pets away while the chemical is doing its work.Purchase stump removal product. With a chainsaw, cut off the stump as close to the ground as possible. Drill multiple 1′ holes 10′ deep in the top of the stump. Drill a few more holes slanting inward from the side of the trunk. These will provide air to help fuel decomposition. Pour the chemical in the top holes, according to directions. Cover the stump with a tarp and wait 4-6 weeks. The wood will become spongy. Chop out the softened wood with an ax and fill the hole with soil. Depending on the size of the stump, you may need to repeat the steps. Burning Tree Stump Removal
This is particularly effective when used as a second step after the chemical removal method. Instead of chopping out the remaining wood, burn it! If you’re starting your removal with fire, you’ll find that it works best on older, drier stumps. If yours was cut very recently or it is still putting out shoots then it’s still fairly green and won’t burn as well. For obvious reasons, follow all safety precautions, have a properly rate fire extinguisher handy, and keep kids and pets away from the stump as it smolders. The process is as follows:Check with local authorities for fire burn restrictions. With a chainsaw, cut off the stump as close to the ground as possible. Drill multiple 1′ holes 10′ deep in the top of the stump. Drill a few more holes slanting inward from the side of the trunk to intersect with the holes drilled down from the top. Pour kerosene or fuel oil into the holes. Do NOT use gasoline! Wait 2 weeks to let it soak through the wood. For a large trunk, repeat and wait another 2 weeks. Clear away debris from around the trunk and lay down bricks or rock to create a fire ring. Have a hose at the ready, as wel as a large fire extinguisher rated to work on fuel oil and wood. (An ABC rated extinguisher covers all types of fires). Using sticks and kindling, build a fire on top of the trunk. Once lit, the fire will burn out as the sticks are consumed, but the trunk will ignite and start to smolder. The trunk will continue to smolder for days. Check on it a couple of times a day, and stir up the embers if needed. Once the fire is completely burned out and the area is cool, rake out the ashes and fill the hole with soil.
There’s no reason you have to trip over an ugly stump in your yard for the next decade. Just pick your plan of attack and evict that memory of a tree gone by.
From Source Article: moneypit.com