Even with standard maintenance, HVAC systems can be the sources of occasional mysterious knocking, unbalanced output and other causes for noisy heat. Here are a few common issues, their sources, and and tips to sort them out.Unbalanced Heating or Cooling
Poor duct design and sealing are often the culprits behind an unbalanced HVAC system. In a perfect world, rooms would be designed with completely balanced temperature distribution. The challenge is a blend of your local climate and construction demands.
Improvements begin by inspecting your ductwork and sealing any leaks. Add insulation to improve comfort for more predictable room-to-room temperatures. Make sure that the air-return portion of a forced-air system is functioning properly because that can also have an adverse impact on room temperatures. One way to ensure this is by undercutting interior doors so that there’s enough space between the door’s bottom and the floor—at least an inch. With that, air can escape to the return vent even when the door is closed.
You can check and adjust airflow by doing a “tissue test” at each room’s supply and return vents. Here’s how: Switch your thermostat to “fan” and then go from duct to duct, holding a tissue in front of the vent to determine airflow. Supply vents should blow the tissue toward you with a good little gust, and return vents should pull the tissue right up against themselves.Oil-Canning of Ducts
This noisy heat phenomenon happens when metal ducts rapidly fill with air as your system starts up, expanding with a big bang, just like an old oil can. Hence the name. Repair is easy, a simple matter of proper reinforcement of the ducts. Just to be sure that oversized airflow or other elements aren’t the issues, it’s wise to have an HVAC technician check things out and help determine safe solutions that’ll keep the air moving, but much more quietly.
Banging pipes and radiators are common noisy heat complaints when it comes to steam systems. The knocking sound is the result of tiny steam explosions that occur when water collects in the radiator rather than heading back toward the boiler to be reheated
If a little knocking sets your world rocking, there’s an easy fix. Literally, tip the balance by repitching the unit so it sends the excess water back toward the unit’s inlet valve. You can do this by adding a shim—a small piece of wood—under the legs on the end of the radiator opposite the inlet valve.
Cold radiators are another cause of noisy heat. If too much air gets trapped in a hot water radiator, water won’t be able to move smoothly through it, and you’ll wind up with the radiator either totally or partially cold when the heat is on. Occasional “bleeding” of the radiator will help you maintain efficiency. To do this, you’ll need a radiator key, a simple wrench designed in the shape of a key to fit the air bleed valve on the top of the radiator.
Turn the heat on and once all the radiators are warm, use the key to drain out any air that has become trapped at the top of the radiator. Once hot water starts to “spit” out of the bleed valve, you can shut it off and you’ll find that that the entire radiator will heat. Be careful though, since the hot water can burn you if you’re not cautious.Photo Credit:Gelly___ / Pixabay
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And it’s the final week of the ho-ho-home improvement season. So if you’re rushing to fix up your house before the big guy arrives, you’re in exactly the right place. We’re here to help you get the jobs done: the décor projects, the organizing projects, the repair projects. If your house is totally stressed out because of all the folks that have been coming and going, we can help you plan for some repairs for the year ahead. Whatever is on your to-do list, your job is to slide it over to ours by calling us at 888-666-3974.
Coming up on today’s show, if you’re a renter, you’re probably doing that to save money. But we don’t want you to waste it on high utility bills, so we’re going to have some tips on how you can save money heating your apartment. It’s going to make you a lot more comfortable and it doesn’t involve any types of major repairs that only the landlord would do. This is stuff that you can do yourself to cut back on that chill and make yourself a lot happier.
LESLIE: Alright. I love those tips.
Plus, did you know that one of the most energy-efficient materials that you can use when you’re building a home is plastic? That’s right. You know, we’re going to share the many ways that this amazing material is now being used to help improve your comfort and lower your energy bills.
TOM: And if you’ve been thinking about updating your kitchen but are concerned about the costs and the complications of the project, we’re going to have tips on easy updates that you can do over a weekend that can totally transform your space without those hassles.
LESLIE: Plus, we’re giving away a fun tool to help serious DIYers get lots of projects done around their money pit. It’s the Arrow PT50 and it delivers some serious pneumatic-tool performance at a price that DIYers love. But we love it because we’re giving it to you for free.
TOM: We’re giving out that Arrow PT50 to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. The number, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Sue in Ohio needs some help cleaning a carpet. Tell us what’s going on.
SUE: I have a concrete sun-porch slab that has – had been covered with black carpeting. And it’s – we had a very muggy summer this year and green mold started to grow on it. And though I tried washing it off and rinsing it off – and it just won’t take care of it. And I know that you had helped other people with mold problems, with 10-percent bleach. But I wouldn’t dare put bleach on that black carpet and I wondered if there’s something else that will kill that mold.
TOM: Well, how do we know it’s mold? It sounds like algae.
SUE: Could it be?
TOM: It could be, yeah. What I would do is I would simply – if the carpet’s that dirty, I would simply go out and rent a steam cleaner – rent a carpet cleaner. Those carpet cleaners are pretty darn effective. I rented one myself at The Home Depot just a few weeks ago for a couple of rooms in an apartment that we own that was getting a new tenant. And I’m always astounded with what a phenomenal job those steam cleaners do on what looks like carpet that has to be torn out.
But when you steam-clean it with the right materials, use the chemicals that come with the machine, it does a really good job. You’ve just got to take your time. Usually have to go over it a couple of times and it takes a little bit of work but it really does a great job. So I wouldn’t try to do this any other way.
The way the steam cleaners work is water is injected into the carpet and then almost at the same time, a very strong vacuum pulls that water back out with the dirt and debris attached to it.
SUE: Oh. So the steam kills the algae.
TOM: Yes. It’ll clean it. And then if you dry it really well after that, it should stop it from coming back.
SUE: OK. OK. Well, that’ll help me, yeah.
TOM: Alright? And that won’t damage the color.
SUE: OK. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Jim in Mississippi on the line with a question about siding. How can we help you today?
JIM: My wife and I are looking at retiring here before long. And we purchased a house that we’re going to be living in and we’re remodeling it. And it’s an older home. It was built in 1946. And we’ve been doing some work remodeling on the inside. But on the outside of the house, it’s had vinyl siding put on it in the last several years. And I had a contractor out doing some work for me and I had him to take a look at what was under the vinyl siding. And he told me that it was lap board. It looked like, to him, it was 6-inch lap board. And I didn’t know if the lap board – if it had asbestos in it or not.
TOM: Well, I think he’s calling – he’s talking about clapboard, which is like a horizontal, 6-inch siding. And typically, that’s made of wood or a composite; it’s not usually that style made of asbestos. In a house that was built in that era, if it did have asbestos it would most likely be an asbestos tile. That’s called a “cement asbestos tile,” because the asbestos is inside of a cement binder.
So, if it’s not a tile, then it’s not likely to be asbestos.
JIM: Actually, what he said – he mentioned lap board – is what he said. I was thinking maybe – I know that they used to make a Masonite …
TOM: But I mean you said that that would have been the original siding, so that would have been since the late 40s?
JIM: Yeah, the house was built in ‘46.
TOM: That wouldn’t be the masonry hardboard siding, not at that age.
JIM: OK, OK. So you don’t think there’s any concern, as far as the siding.
TOM: Well, not unless I know more. Unless I know more. But certainly, I would want to find out what that is. He ought to be able to tell you if it’s a composite material or not.
JIM: OK. Well, I was just concerned about – like I said, he was just doing a little work for me and I asked him just to take a look.
TOM: Mm-hmm. Yeah.
JIM: And he told me – he said he didn’t think I needed to be concerned about it but I …
TOM: Yeah. You can scrape the surface and see if it’s wood or not or if it’s hardboard or what. It’s pretty easy to tell.
JIM: Yeah, he scraped the surface of it and it just sort of peeled off.
TOM: Well, it might be the paint he took off, too. But it’s not likely based on what you’re telling me, OK? You can test it to be sure but it’s not likely.
Good luck with that project. Thanks, again, for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Now you can call in your home repair or your home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Up next, hey, just because you’re a renter it doesn’t mean you have to settle for high heating bills. We’ve got apartment-friendly tips to keep heated air from escaping, when The Money Pit Radio Show continues after this.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Do you have a project in mind? Does it involve a lot of stapling? If you do, we’ve got the perfect tool that we’re giving away this hour. It’s the Arrow PT50. It’s a pneumatic staple gun and it comes with a supply of staples.
This thing gives you a pretty serious tool performance at a great price. It’s nicely designed. It’s got an easy-load magazine. It’s got an overmolded comfort grip, which is important. Because when you’re doing those big jobs, your hands get so sore.
LESLIE: Oh, it really is important to make sure that the tool you’re using sort of fits into your hand, is made to protect your hand in the process of using it. Because if you’ve got a tool you love – and I promise you will love the Arrow PT50 – you’re going to use it again and again.
It’s also got the power and versatility to tackle pretty much any home project. And it’s capable of bump-firing to speed those big jobs along. And that’s when you just sort of hold the trigger down and you go pop-pop-pop as you sort of press down on the safety as you move it along, along, along on the project that you’re working on. And then you can just continue to fire those staples in.
It includes all of the necessary fittings and operates on home compressors up to 120 pounds per square inch. So it works on pancake compressors, even the ones that are a little bit larger.
Check them out, right now, at ArrowFastener.com and you’ll also find some great step-by-step projects out there on things that you can do with your PT50, including how to carpet stair treads. Just click on Projects.
TOM: That Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun and a supple of staples going out to one listener drawn at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, with your home improvement or décor question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Larry in Ohio is on the line with a heating question. How can we help you?
LARRY: Yes. I’ve got a house – it’s 6,000 square foot – and they divided the utilities up into two separate houses. And right now, I have a hot-water tank that we use all the time and we have a hot-water tank that sits on the side that the kitchen is on, that is only used for the dishwasher.
And I’m wondering, would I be better off to get me a tankless hot-water tank or just deal with the electric? I’ve got an electric, 50-gallon one. I don’t know which one would be more cost-efficient.
TOM: So, the only thing that you’re using that water heater for, on that side of the house, is the dishwasher? And that’s a 50-gallon water heater?
LARRY: But like I say, this house was actually set up to be a bed and breakfast.
TOM: If the only thing that water heater is serving is the dishwasher and there’s no way to get that dishwasher fed off of the other water heater, you just need a very small water heater for that dishwasher and I mean like a 20-gallon electric or something like that. Really small. Because there’s really not much water that it needs to heat and it would be foolish to have it heating 50 gallons, 40 gallons of water, 24/7, when you really don’t need it except to wash dishes and I presume, to run the kitchen sink.
So a very small electric water heater, perhaps even on a timer so that it only kicks on maybe in the evening hours when you’re using that dishwasher, would be the smart thing to do there and the least expensive way to both install the new water heater and to run the new water heater. OK?
LARRY: OK. Actually, there’s two bathrooms that are also hooked to this but it’s just the idea right now – we’re not using it. We’ve got two bathrooms on the other side of the house, too.
TOM: OK. Well, that’s different. That’s different. If you have two bathrooms – full bathrooms?
LARRY: Yes. Full bathrooms.
TOM: Well, then, OK, so that’s different. If there’s a full – two full bathrooms – I’d asked you if it was just the dishwasher and you said, “Yes.” But if it’s two full bathrooms on it, then you do need a larger water heater. And again, I would probably recommend – if you’re not using it that often, I’d probably recommend an electric water heater, in that situation, on a timer.
TOM: But you’ll probably need more like a 40-gallon.
LARRY: Actually, on the tankless ones, I’ve noticed the different amount of water per minute.
TOM: Yeah, well – but you – do you have gas? Do you have natural gas?
LARRY: I’ve got propane.
TOM: You have propane? Well, you could use a tankless water heater. The installation cost will be a lot higher. It does deliver you 24/7 endless supplies of hot water. Except in that side of the house, again, you’re not really using those bathrooms that much, so that’s not as big of a concern to you.
That’s why I’m suggesting a minimum, inexpensive electric water heater for that. At least you’ll maintain your home value. Because if you didn’t have adequate – an adequate water heater to supply those two bathrooms plus the dishwasher, your home value would suffer. But I wouldn’t necessarily recommend you put in a $1,500 tankless, because I just don’t think it’s going to be cost effective for you.
LARRY: OK. That was my big question right there: would it be cost-effective (ph)?
TOM: Alright, Larry. Hope that helps. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, most of us will spend more on heating this winter than we really want to. But while homeowners can do things like purchase new energy-efficient heating systems, renters don’t have those same options to improve heat in a home that they don’t own. Or do they?
TOM: Actually, renters can make several easy improvements that’ll keep them both warm and keep that money close at hand.
Now, if your apartment’s heating system and rental agreement permit, you should install a programmable thermostat. That will have the heat kick in when you’re home but dial it back when you’re gone. And these new, Wi-Fi-enabled versions are super easy to hook up and you can replace them with the old ones when you move out.
LESLIE: Now, you also want to make sure that all heating registers are unobstructed so that the warm air can flow freely into each room in the apartment. Now, if your unit has radiators, you want to slide heat-resistant reflectors between that radiator and the wall. And that can help send even more warmth into your room.
TOM: Now, also look for possible air-escape routes, like around windows and doors, and seal those off with a removable caulk. It’s pretty cool stuff because what it does – it provides a weatherproof barrier against the drafts and the moisture when applied indoors or out. But it can be easily removed without causing any damage. It just peels right off in the spring.
LESLIE: Yeah. You want to make sure that you add that weather-stripping to doors and windows. And make sure you shop your local home improvement center or hardware store, because there you’ll find a variety of easy-to-use weather-stripping products that are tailored to different surfaces and constructions. Because that’s really the key: it’s got to stick to whatever and wherever you’re trying to put it. So make sure you buy the right product for the right place.
TOM: And finally, you want to cover those hidden holes in your outside walls. So what are we talking about? Well, covers on windows. That’s important. Covering the through-the-wall air conditioners. That’s going to block some of those drafts. And then for the outlets and the switches, you want to add gaskets behind them. These things cost pennies and they seal the gaps around that light switch or the outlet. You’d be amazed how much air will just sail through the wall in a spot like that.
So, easy things to do. Even if you’re a renter, you don’t own the place, these are improvements that you can literally take with you – in the case, for example, of a thermostat –or that don’t cost very much but will make you much more comfortable.
888-666-3974. What are you working on? We’d love to hear about it. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Harriet in Georgia is on the line with a painting question. What are you working on?
HARRIET: I have a brick house and the trim is wood. My house was built in ‘78 and originally, the trim was painted with oil-based paint. And since then, it’s been painted with latex paint. And I felt like the oil-based paint lasted better, longer. And I wondered, which do you all recommend?
TOM: Well, certainly, oil-based paint is more durable in terms of sort of wear and tear because it’s harder. But if you have latex on it right now and you want to go back to oil or back to solvent-based paint, you’re going to basically have to sand that to make sure there’s no loose paint left. And then you’re going to have to prime it and then put your topcoat over that.
Because my concern is that if it’s not prepped properly, that you might get a situation where it delaminates, Harriet, and starts to peel off. You’ve got to get rid of that top layer of paint by sanding it to make sure that whatever is left is really well-adhered to the surface that it was originally applied to. Does that make sense?
HARRIET: Yes, it does. Well, if I did the oil-based paint and did sand it, would – is that a better paint than latex or does it really matter that much?
TOM: Well, it’s maybe a little bit more durable but there’s plenty of good-quality latex paints that are out there today. The thing about paint is you don’t want to kind of cheapen out on it; you want to use the best paint from a good manufacturer. Because if you use like, for example, a Benjamin Moore or Sherwin-Williams, you’re going to have good results. The only time I really suggest oil-based paint these days may be on a floor, if you’re going to paint a floor, because it’s really durable for that or perhaps on something like kitchen cabinets, where the doors are getting banged around a lot.
But for trim, for the most part, you can use a latex-based paint.
HARRIET: OK. I’ll do that. Thank you so much.
TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Charles in Arkansas is on the line and needs some help putting in a door. What can we do for you?
CHARLES: Got an old door I’m replacing on the front of my house. It’s an exterior door. I bought an oak door – solid door – to replace it. I did not measure for the hinges when I bought the door. I just measured for the doorknob and I don’t know how to cut those grooves for the hinges: those 4-inch hinges that go on the door.
TOM: So we know the door fits into the jambs, it fits into the opening? We just need to figure out to get it hinged? Is that correct?
CHARLES: I just need to know how to cut the door for the hinges.
TOM: But the door does fit the opening right now, so you have an existing opening it can fit into.
CHARLES: Well, yes. A matter of fact, you know, if you ask for 84-inch door, you’re going to get about 83- or 82½-inch door, so it’s just adequate on size. It’s just a matter of the cutting of the hinges.
TOM: OK. So it’s really just a case here of being very accurate in how you lay this out. So you have to remember that when you set the door in the opening, you need about a ¼-inch of space above the door just to allow for expansion and contraction and adjusting the door. So what you want to do is measure down from the top of the door and measure up from the bottom of the door until your first hinge position. I would put those maybe 8 or 10 inches down from the top and equally – equidistant – up from the bottom and then the third one right in between.
And remember that what you want to do is – you can take that door, set it on its side. You can lay the hinge right over it where it’s going to be attached and you can draw an outline of that hinge onto the door. And then with a really sharp chisel, you’re essentially going to notch out the thickness of the hinge material itself, which is really something in the order of a 1/16-inch or so of material that will come off of that, so that when the hinge is on the door it lays completely flat. The idea here is that the hinges don’t really take up any space.
And now, once you have those set on a door, you’re going to put the exact same – in the exact same locations, you’re going to notch them out into the jamb in much the same way. You’ve just got to be really accurate with your measurements to make sure they line up properly. Another way to do this is to put them in the jamb first, set the door in place, kind of shim it up and get it exactly where you want, then transfer the marks over. Either way, the alignment is key.
And once you do that, when you’re ready to put it all together, the trick of the trade is when you
start to drive the screws in and hold the hinge plates on, don’t drive them all the way home. Leave them a little bit loose so you have some slop in that hinge. It’ll make it a lot easier for you to get it all back together. And then you can tighten it up once the hinge pins are in place.
CHARLES: That’s what I wanted to find out.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Just ahead, did you know that one of the most energy-efficient materials you can use when building a home is plastic? We’re going to share the many ways that this amazing material is now being used to help improve your comfort and lower your energy bills, so stick around.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Hey, did you know that many of the most energy-saving materials used when building a home are actually made from plastic? There are actually many ways that this amazing material is now being used to help improve your comfort and lower your energy bills.
TOM: With us to talk about that is Chris VandenHeuvel with Plastics Make it Possible.
CHRIS: I appreciate you having me on.
TOM: I think that folks don’t really appreciate the fact that there’s a lot of plastic in their house, you know? And the fact of the matter is that when it comes to making your home energy-efficient, we really couldn’t do without it. Let’s talk about some of the ways that we tighten up our house with that material.
CHRIS: Yeah. I think most people realize – especially if they have a big house or especially if you have an older house – that it can be really expensive to heat and cool that. And fortunately, a lot of newer, advanced building materials made out of plastics can really help your home energy efficiency.
The big role it really plays is helping to seal the building envelope, which I’m assuming your listeners have probably heard that term before.
CHRIS: It’s basically just the barrier between indoor air-conditioned air and outdoor air. So it’s walls, windows, doors and so on and so forth.
And the concept of envelope, I think, is really important to think about. It’s just like a typical envelope that you stuff with cash, for example. If you don’t seal that up, you’re going to wind up losing some of that cash.
TOM: Yep. Mm-hmm.
CHRIS: And if you have a leaky house and you don’t have the building envelope nicely sealed, the outdoor air is going to come in and basically remove the indoor air, which is basically like taking cash from you, as well.
TOM: It’s interesting that we’re still building homes much the same way as we did 200 years ago. We put up a wood frame and pretty much everything that happens after that is designed to tighten up that building envelope. And plastics now is a big part of that. So we’re talking about things like plastic-foam insulation that can help you seal against the outdoor heat and the cold or plastic house wrap that really does a good job in draft-proofing the house, right?
CHRIS: Exactly. Adding plastic house wrap, which really is sort of like the waterproof materials that we wear on our body to protect us from rain and so on and so forth.
TOM: It’s like the raincoat.
CHRIS: Exactly. It winds up adding an additional coat which prevents air moving in and out of the house. It’s really very efficient at that.
And you mentioned some of the plastic building insulation. The big ones are the foam-plastic insulations, which most people are fairly familiar with. There’s the polystyrene foam, which can be used throughout the entire house, but it’s pretty well known, also, for putting underneath foundations or underground walls because it’s so durable and water-resistant. And then there’s polyurethane foam, which expands. Usually, it is professionally installed and it expands into the wall cavities and the ceiling and so on so forth. And it helps prevent hot and cold air moving in and out. It also keeps out dust, dirt, insects. And then there’s polyiso, which is a thick foam board, which some folks are now using on the outside of the walls. So they put it underneath the siding so that the outdoor air never even touches the building material, such as the 2x4s you mentioned.
CHRIS: So, it’s a pretty innovative way of using advanced plastic building materials.
TOM: I can think of two of those materials that I have added to my house over the prior decades. Many years ago, when we replaced the siding, we used an isocyanurate-foam insulating board on the outside and that made a big difference. And then not so long ago, we added spray-foam to the entire attic space, the crawlspaces under the house. And it made a huge difference in the comfort of the house. I mean I live in a house that was built in 1886 and when we would go from the two-story section to – it’s like a one-story. We call it the “new addition” because it was built in 1901.
TOM: But when we go into that section of the house, it was always hot in the summer and cold in the winter. But now it’s perfect, so we really do enjoy the benefits that that brings to us.
We’re talking to Chris VandenHeuvel – he’s with Plastics Make it Possible – about all the ways that plastic is now being used to make our homes more energy-efficient.
And Chris, you guys have a tour that’s going on right now. You built a tiny house and it is making its way around the country. And it’s interesting because in this tiny house, you’ve been able to showcase a lot of these advanced plastic-building materials, right?
CHRIS: That’s right. It’s interesting that our homes in the United States keep getting bigger and bigger. Right now, the average home is about 2,700 square feet, which is the size of the square footage of a tennis court. And that’s the doubles tennis court.
CHRIS: But at the same time, we’ve got this tiny-house movement where people are building homes that are a few hundred square feet. And we thought it’d be interesting to build a home that showcased a lot of these advanced plastic building materials. In particular, focus on how you seal the building envelope.
So we asked Tiny House Nation star Zack Giffin – I’m not sure if you’re familiar with that TV show – to build us a house and focus specifically on all of these various building materials – such as foam insulation, sealants and caulks and siding and so on so forth – all of which help contribute to seal the building envelope, keep the hot air out or the cold air out where it’s supposed to be and the conditioned air inside.
TOM: And there are many other building components that are made of advanced plastics, as well. I mean I’m thinking vinyl windows. That’s really changed the face of the window industry.
TOM: Many years ago, when they first came out – and now you can’t live without them. They’re affordable, they’re energy-efficient and they last for a really, really long time.
CHRIS: That’s exactly right. And then some of them also have little air pockets on the inside of them to provide more insulation. Some of them actually have foam insulation on the inside of them to increase the insulating effect.
And there’s a number of different things, like vinyl windows. Rather than just here’s a wood door, you can create these beautiful doors that are made out of fiberglass, with foam insulation on the inside of them. Skylights made out of polycarbonate, which are – can allow sunlight to come in but they’re UV-protected to keep the hot air out. Vinyl siding and trim, which you mentioned, as well. So there’s a ton of different advanced plastic building products. And the key is having them all work together in a system that seals the building envelope and prevents kind of air from leaking in and out, as you described in your old 1900 house.
CHRIS: That’s how – the way they were built.
CHRIS: And even some newer homes today, they don’t do a perfect job of sealing the building envelope.
TOM: Mm-hmm. Right.
CHRIS: So do-it-yourselfers can go in, whether it’s an old home or a new home, with different caulks, sealants, insulation products and really help seal that building envelope.
TOM: Chris VandenHeuvel with Plastics Make it Possible. Thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit, Chris. Really interesting discussion about all the ways that plastics are making our buildings more energy-efficient.
If you’d like to learn more, visit their website. It’s PlasticsMakeItPossible.com. And be sure to check out the new tiny house that Plastics Make it Possible is touring around the country, to see up close and personal the many ways that these products are making even these tiny homes incredibly energy-efficient.
Thanks again, Chris.
CHRIS: Thanks, Tom.
LESLIE: Alright, Chris. Thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
Coming up, if you’ve been thinking about updating your kitchen but you’re concerned about the costs, we’re going to have some tips on easy updates that you can do over a weekend that totally transform your space without the hassles, in today’s Building with Confidence Tip presented by Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans, next.
TOM: Where home solutions live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. You’ll get the answer, plus an opportunity to win a great product we’re giving away this hour. It’s the Arrow PT50 Pneumatic Staple Gun and a supply of staples, worth 50 bucks.
It’s a nicely-designed tool with an easy-load magazine, an overmolded comfort grip. And it’s got the power and versatility to take on any home project. It’s even capable of bump-firing to speed big jobs along.
It’s worth 50 bucks. Going out to one caller drawn at random at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. You can learn more about the product at Arrow Fastener and also check out their Projects section, where they’ve got step-by-step guidance on a whole bunch of things you can get done around your house.
And this month, they’re featuring a project about how to carpet stair treads. So, if you’re thinking about taking that on, the info that you need is at ArrowFastener.com.
LESLIE: Barbara in Texas is on the line with a brick question. What’s going on?
BARBARA: Well, I have brick around my house and the mortar is coming out. Back when it was built around 40 years ago, they didn’t put in enough of the cement so it would stay in. So, I don’t know if that’s something I should attempt to try to fill in. I know matching the grout color is real important. What do you all recommend?
TOM: So do you have a lot of this to do, Barbara? Or is this just sort of some minor repairs?
BARBARA: No, there’s quite a bit.
TOM: Yeah, I wouldn’t recommend you do it yourself. I’d have a mason do this because there is some technique to this. You have to mix up the mortar just right. It’s got to be kind of sticky. And once it’s laid in, it really takes a skilled hand to do it. So, I would have a professional do that. I would not make that a do-it-yourself project.
If it was just some areas that were broken out and needed some minor fix, then I’d say OK. But if there’s a lot of repointing to do, I would not suggest you do that yourself, only because it takes an awful lot of practice and sort of a steady hand. That is something you wouldn’t be able to do right out of the gate.
BARBARA: OK. [My need is] (ph) going to get it right like that. Thank you so much.
TOM: Alright. Good luck, Barbara. Happy to help.
LESLIE: Well, if home is where the heart is, then the kitchen is clearly one of those vital organs that converts a house into a home. So it’s no surprise that kitchen renovations are among the most popular remodeling projects tackled every single year. But while so many home improvement projects can be complicated, major kitchen remodeling can actually turn your life upside-down, not to mention all the fast-food pounds you’re going to be putting on waiting for that kitchen to welcome you back in.
TOM: Absolutely. You’re going to have the pizza guy on speed dial.
TOM: Well, to avoid those home improvement hassles, it does make sense to break the projects into modules, which can be completed independently of one another. Not only does this approach make the project more manageable, these smaller changes can really have a big visual impact and cut down on the need for more major makeovers.
LESLIE: For example, changing your kitchen countertop, painting the cabinets or just replacing all of that cabinet hardware. Those are projects that can be done in hours – not weeks, not months and not cost a bajillion dollars – and result in very attractive transformations.
TOM: Also, other big spaces, like replacing the kitchen floors, improving the kitchen lighting and just painting the room can deliver a fresh, new look to that space. And replacing the faucets with water-efficient models, as well as maybe switching out some old appliances for more ENERGY STAR-certified appliances can lower utility costs across the entire board.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Building with Confidence Tip brought to you by Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans. It’s completely online, reduces annoying and time-consuming paperwork and gives you a real, accurate and personalized mortgage solution based on your unique financial situation, with no hidden fees or hassles.
TOM: Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans. Apply simply, understand fully, mortgage confidently.
LESLIE: Paul in Alaska is on the line with a roofing question. What can we do for you?
PAUL: I have a 45-year-old, built-up roof and it was the age of the house. And it just needs to be replaced. And so I’m looking at one of three options: the EPDM, which is the .06-inch rubber, if we can have – I guess have recovery board under it. And then there’s two torch-down options: one is APP and one is SBS. Now, I’m told the SBS – there’s one contractor that actually offers that and he says that, you know, it’s less susceptible to cracking, so it lasts longer. And we have about 100-degree swing in temperatures here in Anchorage: between about 80-above to maybe minus-20. But the SBS can be torch-down, cold or MOP. And of course, the APP, I guess, is just basically torch-down but …
TOM: OK. Well, first things first. In terms of the flat roof, torch-down roofs or the EPDM roofs, I think, would be my choice in those environments. And what really makes the difference with these flat-roof installations is simply the workmanship, because there’s just no tolerance for errors. If you’re putting in a sloped roof – and you can be a little sloppy with your assembly of the roofing shingles, for example, and they’re pretty forgiving and usually don’t leak. The flat roof? If you get it wrong, you’re going to have a mess on your hands.
So, I would make sure that the contractor was very experienced with flat-roof installation and then let them work with the product that they’re going to be willing to back up.
PAUL: Thank you very much.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Up next, a holiday poll here, guys. Would you rather have the smell of a fresh Christmas tree or the ease of setting one up and taking one down that’s artificial? We’ve got your live-versus-fake tree pros and cons, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your calls to 1-888-MONEY-PIT or you can post your questions to us online via our social-media pages – Facebook, Instagram, Twitter – also the Money Pit Community page at MoneyPit.com which is, I believe, where Rose landed when she had a question about a shower. What’s going on?
LESLIE: Rose writes: “While taking a shower in my daughter’s upstairs bathroom, I noticed the water in the bathtub tended to accumulate towards the front of the drain area. Also, some creaking sounds while I was stepping. What could this be?”
TOM: Hmm. Interesting. I wonder if this is totally new or if this is something that’s ongoing. It’s kind of hard to tell what you mean when you say creaking sounds. Because when I hear about noise in a shower, typically that happens because the shower pan wasn’t properly put in or the bathtub wasn’t properly put in. Because the newer tubs are made of fiberglass or some sort of reinforced plastic. And typically, what the contractor is supposed to do is put sort of a wet mix of mortar under it and then press it down to give it additional support. And if that doesn’t happen, you do get that kind of buckling, creaking sound.
Of course, if it’s structural, I’d be more concerned. I just have no way of telling. So I think that you’re wise to notice this. I might recommend that you have an expert take a look at it. And that might be a professional home inspector or somebody of that nature that doesn’t have a project to sell you, to try to figure out if this is just normal or there could potentially be a structural issue underneath. Because we don’t want you to fall through that tub. That would be like the real Money Pit movie, right, when the tub fell through the ceiling and he ended up in the kitchen or something? We don’t want you to do that.
LESLIE: That part of the movie makes me just laugh and laugh and laugh when Tom Hanks is stuck in that rug in the floor and his little arms are just stuck in there. Don’t let that happen to you, alright, Rose?
TOM: Well, it can be a tough decision to make but real trees and fake trees each come with their own distinct perks and drawbacks. Leslie helps you wade through them to make the best decision to keep everyone merry and bright, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: That’s right. You know, as any live-tree loyalist will tell you, fresh-cut Christmas trees smell the best. And they even keep your home cleaner by removing carbon dioxide and replacing it with oxygen. So, therefore, get a live tree. I think you know where I stand on this, guys.
But if you do get a live tree, make sure that you buy one from a nearby farm, because that’ll help your local economy. And then they can be broken down into mulch after the holiday. That’s all the benefits of having the live tree.
Now, the downside of a live tree is you’ve got to deal with all the needles. It needs watering and a lot of it. You want to make sure that you water it enough so that it doesn’t dry out. And then, of course, with the lights it can become a major fire risk.
Now, if time is hard to come by this holiday or you’re going to be out of down for long stretches, a fake tree really might be the best way to go. And honestly, sometimes I feel like fake trees just get a bad rep. There are a lot of perks out there to a fake tree. And let me tell you that they look gorgeous. They are prelit and prelit very, very well and that is something that takes a long time if you’re doing it yourself on a live tree.
Now, here’s some great ideas about a fake tree. You can reuse them year after year. It saves you money, it saves you a hassle. They look just like the real thing. The fake trees are maintenance-free, so you don’t have to worry about allergies or sap. But you do need a place to store them year after year. Assembling them does take time and they’re often made from a non-renewable resource: plastic. And there’s often no benefits to the economy as many of those fake trees are made abroad.
So you’ve got to think about all of these different factors, which one better suits your family. Either way, have a wonderful holiday season. Enjoy your tree, real or fake. Have a wonderful, wonderful holiday. I hope it’s warm and cozy, everybody.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, you know what’s not warm and cozy? Having to shovel your driveways and sidewalks after a big snowstorm. But if you’re ready to give your back a break and buy a snow blower, there are a lot of options to wade through. We’re going to help you choose the one that’s best for you, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We’re now to assist you in with your home improvement projects, your decoration jobs. If there’s a project on your to-do list, devote us a call right now. If it’s one that you’re having a little trouble getting done, we can help get you out of a jam-pack. Or if you’re "ve been thinking about" hiring a pro to get a job done, we can tell you exactly how to find the best one and what to make sure you ask for when you ratify that home improvement contract. Whatever is on your to-do list can be on ours if you pick up the phone and call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Well , now that it’s spring and we begin to see all those springtime blooms perfectly bloom- but you know what? I’m a little impatient. I want to see them bloom straight off. I’m various kinds of tired of waiting for them. It’s like they’re teasing, you are familiar? And it turns out that the rapidity with which those grows bloom is determined by what the Department of Agriculture calls the “hardiness zone.” So we’re going to share some tips-off on the most wonderful practice to get a color-filled garden going , no matter where you live and whatever it is you fall on that map.
LESLIE: And too ahead, one of the most difficult of chores that homeowners encounter when they’re trying to have a quality lawn is getting rid of weeds. Now, it’s an age-old problem that’s stirred more complicated by the fact that there are over 200 types of grass that love your lawn as much as you do. And they kind of want to stick around, so we’re going to share some solutions in a bit.
TOM: Plus, are you planning a project to improve your outdoor living but you want to be confident the project is actually a good investment? We’re going to share the details on a project that can deliver years of happiness and one of the most valuable returns on an investment when it comes age for you to sell.
LESLIE: But first, we want to hear about assignments who the hell is replenishing your springtime dates, inside and out, floorboards to shingles, whatever it is you are working on. I know we’re still cleaning up from our sloppy winter. Even though it wasn’t very snowy, it did a number on our garden. So, that’s what’s been fill my weekends. What are you guys working on?
TOM: Give us a see, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Leslie, let’s get to those spring projections. Who’s first?
LESLIE: Mary in Massachusetts is on the line with a ridge-vent question. How can we help you today?
MARY: My house is 70 year olds. In time, it needed to be re-shingled. So the roofer asked now they use ridge vent and they opened the center of the roof. And it( audio chink) large and I was happy with the shingles but I do not like that ridge volcano( audio crack ). It’s like having an open space. Is there a mode I can close that?
TOM: No. That is doing exactly what it’s intended to do and exactly what it has to do, Mary. We all grew up with homes that were grossly under-ventilated. But if your attic is cooled perfectly, it should be the same temperature as the outside. It is not a conditioned cavity; it is unconditioned. So the hot is trapped at the flooring grade where you have insulation but the bank vent-hole is designed to let air out of the attic where it’s most likely to outlet.
So, for example, if your home is freshened perfectly, the wind is going to blow over the ceiling, it’s going to depressurize the bank and pull air out of the attic from that infinite. It plucks out sweat in the wintertime, it gathers out heat in the summertime.
And the other half of that are soffit vents at the overhang. These work together to properly ventilate a roof. So you’ve time never experienced a properly cooled attic but that is exactly what ridge ventilates is presumed to do. And I would not change them because if you do, you’re extending to have a number of issues to crop up.
Number one, you’ll have moisture that will build up in the attic. And what that will do is clear the insulation much less efficient. If you compute really 2-percent moisture to fiberglass insulation, it loses about a third of its fight to heat loss. Secondly, in the summertime, you’ll have unwarranted heat, which will realize cooling the house that much more expensive. So, I wouldn’t do a thing.
MARY: Hmm. OK. I was curious. I’m not thrilled with it but I predict I have to live with it.
TOM: Yep. Get used to it. It’s doing its errand, Mary, OK?
MARY: Thank you.
TOM: Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for request us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: James in Delaware, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JAMES: The other day, I sat in my living room when all of a sudden, this real loud whistle sound came out of my water-heater heater room. I opened it up. I’d exactly never heard this before and it did this for a few minutes. And then it just stopped.
TOM: You didn’t determine any sea come out of the overflow, did you?
JAMES: No. No. That’s what I can’t figure out.
TOM: How old-time is the water heater, James?
JAMES: About four or five years ago, I put in all electrical- who the hell is gas before- but all electric. I applied a Trane heater in and there was another label that they put in with the spray heater. And it seems like now- I haven’t heard that since. Now, when I use the water- the faucet- in the kitchen, right after I turn it off, a marry minutes later I hear this noise that’s like a click noise or something in the spray heater.
TOM: So, that sounding sound is probably the pipes expanding and contracting as they heat up and cool down. It tends to amplify itself by reason of the nature of the copper pipings. But everything that you’re inform me doesn’t signal that I’m thinking you’re having any kind of problem. Just sometimes, as the spray expands and contracts, it will constitute some odd sounds to it.
JAMES: Do I have to drain the heater at all or ...?
TOM: Do you have hard water there?
JAMES: Oh, yeah.
TOM: So "if youre having" hard-boiled water, sometimes you get mineral sediment along the bottom of the sea heater. But that wouldn’t genuinely bang an electric sea heater, because the scrolls are up in the middle of the ocean. They’re immersed right into the middle of the cistern, so it’s not going to make them less efficient. So you could but I don’t think it’ll have any effect.
If you have a gas water heater, the heating element’s at the bottom. And sometimes, if you get mineral deposits that sit over the bottom of the water tank, it’s kind of like an insulator and it establishes it harder to heat the water. But in the case of electrical liquid heater, the heating elements are embedded up in the ocean heater, often a foot from the bottom and a foot down from the top. So that wouldn’t affect it.
JAMES: Well, I saw there’s- isn’t there one at the top and the bottom?
TOM: Yes. But it’s immersed in the middle of the cistern. It sticks through the barrel, various kinds of at a right inclination. And there’s one about a hoof down from the top and one that’s about a foot up from the bottom. So you’re not going to have any settling of mineral-salt deposits on it.
JAMES: What’s the life expectancy of one of the following options acts?
TOM: About 10 times- 10 to 12 years.
JAMES: Ten times and that’s it. And when can I approximate the elements vanish, frequently?
TOM: Well, if the elements travel, they can be replaced. But the tanks tend to leak after 10 -plus years.
JAMES: Wow. And where should I impede an eye- where does it- they divulge in the bottom? They merely divulge water all over the place?
TOM: The best thing to do is if you’re going away, right, you are able to always turn off your main water valve. And likewise, turn off the water heater, because it won’t waste a lot of electricity by heating up irrigate in the mansion that you’re not using.
JAMES: Listen, let me tell you something, I love you guys. You people have a really very virtuous- a great show. Because there’s a lot of talk demo on and different things but you guys promotion a lot of people.
TOM: We try. Thank you so much better, James. We genuinely increase that. Good luck with the project and thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show. Give us a call, let us know what you are working on. We’re standing by at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You knows where to find top-rated home service pros and bible appointments online, all for free.
Just onward, are you ready to see more signals of spring? Well, so are we. We’re going to have some tips to jump-start your garden and get those heydays blooming quickly, next. Plus, more of your sees right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
TOM: Uttering good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your dwelling job before you hire a pro and instantly record one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
Now we’ve went Frank on the line who’s having an issue with paint on his siding.
What’s going on, Frank?
FRANK: It’s all- and first of all, it’s all coming off. It’s like no one ever primary it before or anything and I don’t know if "theyre using" paint or stain. And I’m not really sure what to go back with, if you have to prime it. I’m truly- I don’t know. I’m lost.
TOM: So we’re talking about backing shingles here , not roofing shingles, remedy?
FRANK: Right. Cedar shingles- grey cedar shingles.
TOM: So the paint’s coming off after you’re power-washed them, so you probably didn’t have good adhesion to begin with.
LESLIE: Yeah. But depict is going to come off when you pressure-wash. That’s just how it goes.
TOM: Well, that’s true-life and- well, depending on the ferocity of the pressure washer. But likewise, if dye wasn’t pertained well, if it wasn’t primed properly, then it will come off even that much more quicker. So what I would recommend you do is to get rid of any release cover that’s left behind. You’re probably going to have to abrade those shingles, probably brush them with a wire clean. Make sure you really get anything that’s loose off of that.
Then you’re going to need to prime the part shingle surface with an oil-based primer, because that’s going to give you maximum adhesion. The primer- one of the qualities of the primer is that it really sticks to the substrate. And then after it’s primary, you are able to situated a topcoat of colour over that. But that’s the process and there’s time no shortcutting it, especially if you’ve got adhesion problems with the decorate that you’ve taken off. You can’t applied good make-up over bad paint. You’ve got to get rid of all the bad paint, prime it properly and then repaint it and you’ll be good to go, Frank.
FRANK: OK. Because I’ve had some people telling me that you could use stain.
TOM: Well, you could use stain, as well, but only if all of the old-time dye is off. Otherwise, it’s going to look pretty bad.
Now, if you use stain, you still have to prime it. I’ve went cedar shingles on my home and I primed it first and then used a solid-color stain over that. And between the two of them- the last time I did it this space, it lasted about 15 or 17 years. But you’ve got to prime it. No matter what you do, you’ve got to prime it.
FRANK: OK. And an oil-based primer. OK. Thanks a lot.
TOM: You’ve got it, Frank. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Deborah in Pennsylvania, you’ve came The Money Pit. What can we do for you today?
DEBORAH: OK. I’m purchasing a home that has a couple of stains on the ceiling. And it is about to change the discolorations are located directly under the ventilates. I don’t know any other way to explain it but they’re like these tubes on the outside where the roof is. So, I was told by the inspection that those rubber-stopper situations that go around them need to be replaced.
TOM: OK. Yeah. So, the plumbing-vent twinkle is what is leaking here. And the plumbing-vent flashing consists of an aluminum portion of flash material that starts underneath the roof shingles and a rubber boot that is designed to fit over the plumbing tube. And they are usually- that rubber boot will very often crack and deteriorate and does have to be replaced.
Not a seriously complicated enterprise. A roofer or a carpenter can do it in about 10 or 15 minutes. They exactly mostly have to peel up a roof shingle or two right around there. You can do that with a flat prohibit. You can actually situated the flat bar under the roof shingle, get it right up to where the nail is and kind of wiggle it back and forth. That tack will come right out. You can various kinds of disassemble the roof one shingle at a time, supersede the flashing show and settled it back together.
So, pretty easy, straightforward mend job and not the least bit surprising, Deborah. OK?
DEBORAH: OK. Well, I admire you taking my bellow. Thank you.
TOM: Yeah. You’re welcome. Good luck, Deborah. Thanks so much for announce us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well , nothing says spring like colorful, flowering floras in your yard. And now that we’re well into outpouring, it’s time to seed the grains that will become those beautiful blushes of summer. But if you can’t are looking forward to grains to germinate, you can plant live buds for an instant pop of color.
Now, the key here is to choose right type of flowers for your region and that’s actually a jolly specific science.
TOM: Well, that’s right. Now, "the two countries " is divided into 11 different plant-hardiness zones. That’s determined by the U.S. District of Agriculture’s Plant-Hardiness Zone Map. And it lays out precisely where you are on that map and that specifies which flowers can stretch or are most likely to thrive at that special point. If you try to choose a bush that’s outside of your zone, it’s going to take longer or it may not actually thrive at all.
LESLIE: That’s why drawing up the clay for those flowers is really important, as well. Now, you have to have healthful grime and the correct pH levels for the type of heydays that you’re planting. You had wished to make sure you test the clay with a package and then add organic matter if it’s needed. You can add peat moss, sawdust, sand, excrement, grind husk, a homemade compost. What you compute is going to depend on what those results you get. So it’s really important to measure that grunge. You want to give those bushes the best chance to thrive and this really is a good way to do it.
TOM: It’s also important that, of course, you water as aimed. Now, it’s possible that you could have too little water but it’s just as possible you could have too much water and flood out those plants. You want to try to strive it- strive to get exactly the right amount so that the plants can actually survive and thrive.
And if you can keep it in the zone and you liquid it properly and you make good use of that report, you are very likely to get those blushes quickly and be able to enjoy that spring garden that much sooner.
LESLIE: Steven in Texas needs some help with cabinet ministers project. What is impossible to do for you?
STEVEN: Yes. So my spouse has challenges with chemicals, like formaldehydes and glues and make-ups that they put in kitchen cabinets, the new ones. And I was wondering if you had any idea what a person could use that you could get away from those types of chemicals in cabinets.
TOM: So you’re looking forward to a cabinet make that is kind of formaldehyde-free and VOC-free? Is that correct?
STEVEN: Yeah, that’d be right. Yes.
TOM: Steve, that’s an interesting question because when it comes to kitchen cabinets, so many of the products that go into kitchen cabinets have its full potential to have VOCs or volatile organic combinations in them. Because you could start with the boards that are used to build the cabinets. If they’re a pressboard or a composite board of some sort, that may have formaldehyde in it, for example. Then you have the finishes and on and on and on.
I think what you want to do is you want to look for kitchen cabinetry that is built to meet the brand-new CARB 2 standard. That’s C--AR-B- 2 standard. That stands for the California Air Source Board and that’s a standard that measures the level of those types of toxins in cabinetry. And so if you search for kitchen cabinets that encounter that standard, I think that’s a good place to start.
STEVEN: Well, generally, I do like maybe some metal cabinets, you are familiar. That would look nice in a kitchen. Would you have any ideas on something like that?
TOM: Well, you’d still have finishes on metal closets that would have been able to some of the same issues.
TOM: I haven’t looked metal lockers in a kitchen in forever. The Gladiator tribes at Whirlpool are doing a really good job these days with metal cabinetry for laundry rooms and practicality the regions and openings like that. But I don’t know if that cabinet route is going to extend to the point where you’d have enough flexibility to get it on in a kitchen.
LESLIE: Well, I can share with you a vendor of a no-formaldehyde-added cabinetry. They’re actually beautiful, handmade, wooden cabinets. I’m not sure this is right their cost extent but I am very well known the fact that they are not adding any substances to it. And they are very responsible in how they utilize the wood and the products that they use to make their cabinets. It’s a company out of Portland and their word is Neil Kelly. And it’s N-e-i-l-K-e-l-l-y.
And then, there was a metal-cabinet manufacturer that I was familiar with a little while ago. It’s Fillip Metal and it’s F-i-l-l-i-p. It’s sort of this new resurgence of some interesting, repurposed fabrics. And you might want to check them out, as well.
STEVEN: OK. Well, thank you very much for the information. I appreciate it.
TOM: Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Sandy in Pennsylvania, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
SANDY: Yes, I was calling to ask about building a garage. My husband and I time bought a home. It’s a two-story Colonial but there’s no garage and we’re trying to decide detached, fastened, with or without a breezeway. We know we want it to be oversized but we’re trying to decide which would be the most efficient and convenient select to go with.
TOM: So, it’s as much an architectural question as it is a structural question, because you’re trying to figure out what’s going to fit best with the property. So that quantity- that involves looking at the house itself in periods of its design and too looking at the neighborhood to determine what’s going to fit in well. Because it’s OK to have the nicest house on the chunk but it’s not OK if it’s that much nicer that the rest of the neighborhood pullings it down in value. Does that make sense?
SANDY: Yes. And I guess the rest of the dwellings are very, unusually same except they have garages.
TOM: OK. Well, then that’s a good example for you to follow.
TOM: Now, if you have the breezeway, then undoubtedly you’re going to have more functional seat. So I’m not quite sure what we can do to help you with this question, because it’s certainly a motif that "youve got to" kind of will be voting in favour of with your husband and then set apart building it. When it does get built, it certainly has to be built by a pro, tabled pursuant to all of the neighbourhood regulations, which are going to probably require that you have a adjusted of architectural plans.
TOM: So, you might just want to start with that because an architect- architects can help you look at the options very easily with the computer programming they use today and give you a chance to look at it from several different inclinations, both outside and inside, in terms of available storage seat and in different configurations.
SANDY: OK. Likewise, we need to replace the ceiling on the residence, so I was thinking making it an attached or with a breezeway kind of reaches it a little bit more efficient. As we replace the ceiling on the residence, we’d be putting the roof on the garage, as well.
TOM: OK. Well, it would make sense in order to be allowed to do the part ceiling and have that folded into the same project. And then you could, in fact, fold it into the same financing, more, if you’re financing the project. So, yeah, I’m all for meaning those projects to be done together. Because when the roofing team is on site, that’ll be the most cost-effective way to get it all done.
TOM: And to have it match.
TOM: We did our roof in the last year and we did everything but the garage. And the garage truly didn’t need it but seeing that brand-new, beautiful roof on the house, I really decided that I would ignore the fact that I had a few years of life left on my garage roof. And we did that, as well, which is why we always say that the three most expensive messages in dwelling betterment are “might as well.”
SANDY: Right. Right.
TOM: Alright? Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for label us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Just ahead, one of the most difficult of enterprises homeowners meeting when they’re trying to have a quality lawn is getting purged of weeds. We’re going to have tips to make sure your weeds lose the lawn battle, after this.
TOM: Drawing good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, one of the most difficult of tasks that homeowners encounter when trying to have a quality lawn is getting rid of the grass. You know, it’s an age-old problem that’s acquired more complicated by the fact that there are over 200 the different types of weeds that love your lawn as much as you do, perhaps even more.
TOM: That’s right. Now, to help us get a handle on the problem and the solutions, we welcome lawn-care expert Jim Wood from Bonide, a company that’s been helping homeowners beat back those grass now for over 90 years.
JIM: Thank you, Tom and Leslie. Glad to be on your show.
TOM: So this has got to be a question - you’re the guy that wherever you are, whether you’re- I don’t know- at the mall, the doctor’s office, having a lunch at the regional diner, people know you’re a lawn-care expert. People probably comes down to you all the time and ask you, “How do we be disposed of the darn weeds in the lawn? ” Is it always the same answer or does it actually depend on what kind of lawn they have and what kind of grass they have?
JIM: Well, it pretty much depends, Tom, on the time of the year and likewise how much stress the lawn is under. As we get into late springtime and summer, there’s a variety of factors that come into play in controlling weeds in lawns.
TOM: When you say lawn stress, it seems like an oxymoron. I always think of the lawn as being very chill.
LESLIE: Super relaxing.
TOM: Yeah, a residence you want to relax. But how does a lawn do stressed?
JIM: Well, the lawn get stressed simply because of shortage. Warm temperatures will make stress on cool-season grass. Heavy wind dries out the lawn, organizes the shortage scenario, which led to the stress on the plant.
And one of the things about weed switch is in order to get button of grass, they need to be actively originating. So, when a plant is under stress, "its not" actively germinating. So the homeowner will not see the outcomes that they fully expert.
TOM: So, do the weeds get an opportunity, when the plant’s under stress like that, to kind of grab contain?
JIM: Oh, they are able to, depends on the type of weed plant. Some will germinate in stress modes. But the biggest event is they definitely are very, very hard to control when the gras grass or the targeted weed is under stress.
LESLIE: Now, do you have to know what type of weed it is before you go and select that weed care? Or is there sort of a one type for all?
JIM: Well, if your targeted weeds are currently in your turf-grass domain, your lawn area, yes, you can go out and get yourself a broadleaf lawn-weed killer, such as Weed Beater Ultra, which will see up to 200-plus weeds that a homeowner is going to find on their lawn. That particular make will be applicable early in its first year: April, early May into mid-May. It can be applied into June. You start to get into July and August, you’ve got to back off a little bit because it’s getting too hot. And then you can reapply it again sometime in September through November.
So, it opens up a very great window of possibilities for a homeowner to restrict broadleaf grass in their lawns.
TOM: Now, Jim, a lot of these weed makes come in a center. I think sometimes parties get confused about how to mix properly. Is this particular product likewise offered in a ready-to-use formula, like the genu that you can just sort of screw your hose to and move?
JIM: It’s available in a ready-to-spray. It is what- the terminology used we use for a hose-end applicator. It’s very easy to do. The homeowner time basically secures it up to their hose, walkings to the furthest point in their yard and then toils and scatters moving, basically, backwards so they’re not walking through the soaking, plowed expanse. And then it’s too accessible in a ready-to-use, which is used for spot treatment now and there.
TOM: We’re talking to Jim Wood- he’s the lawn-care expert with Bonide- about how to control weeds in our yard.
So, Jim, apart from the Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer, I think sometimes tribes are now able to become themselves a target for added grass by the way they chipped their lawn. People are in a hurry to want to try to relieve the number of ages they’ve got to push that riding mower over the grass. So, sometimes they cut it too short. That can have an effect, too, right?
JIM: Tom, that’s very true. And that’s one of the contributors to having a weed-infested lawn. Cutting the grass too short stresses the lawn. So what happens is it demonstrates an opportunity for weed grains to germinate and to grow. The principle situation is to cut their lawn at about 3 to 31/2-inches towering. And that will shade the soil and foreclose weed-seed germination.
TOM: Perfect. Jim Wood from Bonide, thank you so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
If you’d like to learn more about the Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer, where you can find it, how it use and a lot of the other fine produces that Bonide offsets, chief on over to their website at Bonide- B-o-n-i-d-e-. com.
JIM: Thank you, Tom and Leslie.
LESLIE: Coming up, are you planning a project to improve your outdoor living but need to be confident that that projection is a good asset? We’re going to share the details on a project that can deliver years of indulgence and good ROI when you sell, in today’s Pro Project represented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Impelling good residences better, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You never have to worry about overpaying for a position. With HomeAdvisor, you can use their True Cost Guide and examine what others paid for same assignments and then get matched with top-rated pros, read critiques, get paraphrases and volume appointments, all free of charge. That’s at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Scott in Iowa on the line who are required to help with a paint campaign. Tell us what you’re working on.
SCOTT: I just recently bought a rental house and the plaster- it’s an older home and the plaster was falling off the house. Well, the guy I bought it from had restored it but if you look at it, it’s falling out in some areas and bowing back in in some areas. And I was just wondering, would I have to re-drywall it or is there a cheaper and easier way to fix that?
TOM: How much of this exists? Is there a lot of this that’s where it’s- the plaster seems to be loose?
SCOTT: Throughout the whole house.
TOM: Yeah, OK. So it’s a problem because it’s "re going to be" dangerous.
What happens is the plaster, when it’s requested, it’s worked over something announced “wood lath, ” which are like thin rows of grove. Kind of looks like those pokes we use to hold up garden floras and tomatoes and acts like that. And the plaster expands to behind the lath and it sort of locks in place.
But over the years, with an old home, those “keyways, ” we call them, loosen up and then the plaster is not attached to the wall anymore. So you are looking at a situation where the walls are going to get worse. It’s not going to get better. And if it’s the ceiling that’s loose, it could be dangerous. Because when that plaster comes, it’s actually, truly ponderous. I’ve seen it dent floors and certainly could hurt somebody.
So now we have- the question is: what’s the best way to deal with this? “Should I tear the plaster out? Should I drywall over? ” I’ve done it both courses and I’ve come to the conclusion, after trying it this practice for many years, that the best thing to do is to set drywall on top of the plaster, not tear it out, for a couple of reasons. First of all, it’s less chaotic. Secondly, that even when you tear out the lath and the plaster, you’ll find that the studs from the old-fashioned mansion behind it are not exceedingly even. So when you made drywall up, it tends to warp sometimes.
So what I would do is I would fix brand-new drywall over the plaster. You can be utilized 3/8 -inch-thick drywall, very; you don’t even needed by 1/2 -inch drywall. And then by bind from the drywall, through the plaster into the studs, you’ll help secure that loose plaster so you won’t have any further movement in that room. That would be my recommendation.
SCOTT: That works out.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: As you experience the warmer forecast, are you one of the millions of homeowners that starts "ve been thinking about" ways to further improve those outdoor gaps? If "you il be", it’s smart to knowledge the ROI and that’s return on asset. Because not all residence increases deliver a return on investment that you can count on. One that does, though, is building a deck. But your deck not only has to be well-designed to be attractive, it also has to be well-designed to be safe. And that’s why this is a project best turn left to a pro. We’ve got some tips to help you get that projection done, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: OK. So, first, let’s talk about cost. Now, according to HomeAdvisor’s most recent True Cost Report, the national average cost for a deck is just over about 7,000 horses. But those costs can vary widely based on the dimensions of the the floor, the number of positions the floor has and the material.
For example, decks that are made of pressure-treated lumber start at around 2,500 bucks while those improved utilizing composite lumber are going to begin upwards of 8,000. So, it certainly depends on all of those factors.
LESLIE: Now, regardless, a floor does deliver one of the best returns on your remodeling investment when it does come time to sell.
Now, house a deck likewise helps your home stand out in the marketplace. It realizes it much more of a advantageous residence to buy. Now, this is going to increase buyer competition for your home and result in a sale at the largest possible price.
TOM: Now, before you hire a pro, we undoubtedly recommend getting guess from at least two or three contractors before you finalize one pro to do the project. Make sure you read re-examine from others that have had similar projections done by the same contractor, as well. It’s so important to read those reviews and make sure this sounds like somebody that you can work with.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. You also want to devote a lot of time upfront on the specific characteristics. And don’t be shy about be discussed with your pro about ways to save money on development projects. Sometimes, small-minded scheme conversions that you represent early on can actually have a big impact on the final cost of the job. So speak up.
TOM: And that’s today’s Pro Project was put forward by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your field, read substantiated reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Kathleen in Rhode Island who’s doing some decorating and needs some help selecting floorings. How can we help you?
KATHLEEN: Ah, there are so many choices. We’re looking at laminate, engineered and hardwood. What do you advocate? I have one concrete floor, which is the walk-out basement. And then it’s the first and the second floor. First is main live neighborhood and second is bedroom.
TOM: Well, in the vault, you can’t use solid hardwood; you can only use engineered hardwood or the laminate because it’s very damp.
LESLIE: Right. And the laminate’s probably the most wonderful choice.
KATHLEEN: But what about wear and tear? That’s the other thing. I mean laminate cannot ever be sanded. You need to slam it out and redo it when engineered can be.
TOM: Well, I’ve came probably 10 years on the laminate storey in my kitchen and 3 kids that grew up on it. And I’ve got to tell you, it’s pretty rough stuff.
KATHLEEN: And now there are different degrees of laminate, more , no?
TOM: There’s different finishes, there’s different durability. There’s a test called a Taber Abrasion Test that’s done on laminate surfaces. It’s likewise done on the finish of hardwood surfaces. And that’s what regulates how durable they are.
So, as long as you- if there’s an option in the quality of finish from something that’s maybe designed for residential or commercial, I’d ever go with the tougher one.
LESLIE: Right. Well, Kathleen, in my home, our basement is where my teenagers hang out, it’s my workspace. And I positioned a laminate flooring down there and I elect one that has a beautiful grain to it. It looks like a hardwood. And then I’ve utilized area carpets to sort of warm it up and make it feel more homey. But it’s super sturdy. I had a plumbing issue see awry and lots of water underneath it and it didn’t buckle, bend. I has been possible to baked it all out and keep it really, certainly in good shape. So I’m all for a laminate in a lower level.
Now, when it is necessary to your main floor and your bedroom field, I’d be more inclined to lean toward an engineered hardwood or a hardwood, depending on your budget and depending on the aesthetic. You can go with- if your concern is wear and tear and refinishing, you can go with a commercial-grade finish. It’s about to become a little bit more costly but it’s going to allow that hardwood to really stand up.
The other option to consider is in your entryway foyers or places where you come in and out, like a mud room, become laminate again in there or do a tile or a marble or something that will be more easily cleanable, more durable, simply to handle that type of wear and- wear situation.
Now, I personally, on two seconds floor and even in living spaces - you say you’re by the salt water. I realize you have a certain sort of design style that could be sort of- I’m guessing like a traditional but contemporary at the same time, since you’re on the water. And wider boards are very popular now.
KATHLEEN: Yes, I concur. They’re very attractive.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. They’re very attractive. You can go for a plank that has some sort of a hand-scraping detail to it that reviews a little more age-y and more shabby and- but still be durable.
KATHLEEN: OK. And so you’re comfortable with that for a full living space? The laminate.
TOM: Alright, good, we speak you into it.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much better for name The Money Pit.
Up next, light-green dwelling better options seem to be multiplying lately but it isn’t ever clear how much you’re actually helping the planet and yourself with the choices that you’re obliging. We’re going to have gratuities to help you fix the right choice for both, after this.
TOM: Clearing good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this fine outpouring weekend? We’d love to hear from you. If it’s a residence improvement campaign that maybe you need some assist with, help yourself firstly, though, by request us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They genuinely have the best neighbourhood pros for any home service.
LESLIE: That’s right. It doesn’t was important that that activity is, they make it fast and easy to find top-rated pros.
TOM: And there are no membership fees. It’s 100 -percent free to use, HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Don’t forget, while you’re online, to head on over to MoneyPit.com and announce your questions in the Community section. And I’ve got one here from Julie in Wisconsin who author: “I want to supersede a glowing fixture with a ceiling fan. Is there anything special I have to do, like new wiring? ”
TOM: Hey, that’s a good question and that’s a really fun project, Julie. So it really is- there’s actually two parts to that. One is the electrical part and one is kind of the mechanical/structural part.
Now, depending on how that container is installed, a ceiling follower is a lot more heavy than a light fixture. So, the following is some special brackets that need to go into the ceiling organize to reinforce that and the wobbly vibration that it’s going to cause and the added weight. So that’s really important.
In calls of the wire, most lighting tours can certainly power a ceiling fan. It’s kind of a one-for-one when you add that wiring. In other utterances, you’re going to have a black wire, white wire and a dirt wire. And you’re going to have a black wire, white wire, grind wire on the love most of the time, so it’s frequently a one-to-one various kinds of connection.
But with all electrical projects, you clearly want to get an electrician if it’s not something you’ve done before, because you could get seriously hurt. But remember, make sure it’s installed solidly and cabled properly and you’ll have countless, many years of happy use with it.
LESLIE: Alright, Julie. Good luck with that. Ceiling love are so great on warm summer nights.
TOM: Well, dark-green residence better alternative seem to be multiplying lately and it’s not ever clear how much you’re actually helping the planet and helping yourself with the choices you conclude. Leslie has some gratuities to assist you in style it out, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
Leslie, it seems like light-green, organic and healthy are words that are way overused these days. How do we represent sure we’re getting what we think we are?
LESLIE: Those are a lot of periods that you’re seeing thrown around in a lot of places and it does get embarrassing. I planned there’s a term for it; it’s announced “greenwashing.” You know, it’s - you’re just get bombarded with all this word that you’re not really sure what that real value is.
Now, if you’re planning to purchase a home improvement-related concoction and you want to ensure that it’s environmentally friendly, there are a few things to look at, beyond those advertising claims, required to determine whether the make is truly green.
You want to start by considering the basics. Now, I’m talking about the raw materials that go into that concoction and where they are from. You’ve got to remember that anything that’s got to be transported a long way introduces other precious resources into that equation. Then you’ve got to look at the cements, the finishings, the finishes that are used to procreate that concoction viable and whether or not the manufacturing process induces to freeing of damaging elements. And next, you’ve got to consider the produce box and the likelihood that that commodity is going to release VOCs- those volatile organic complexes- into your dwelling home during and after installation.
Now, a product’s afterlife has also got to be a big factor in determining the greenness of it. Really as there are benefits to selecting a product made from sustainable ingredients, it was necessary to be informed that those ingredients is also available recycled, rehabilitated, repurposed, whatever it is when that product’s time with you is over. All good concepts must be given to an goal and when that let this happen, a lettuce one is much preferred.
So do your research. Don’t be confused by the terminology and I’m sure you will find enormous eco-friendly makes to bring into your home.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, coming up next time on the program, have you ever noticed a hit in a wall or organization and wondered if it’s serious or not? Well, Tom Silva, the general contractor from This Old House, is going to stop by with provide answers to that question and more, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No section of this transcript or audio register may be are described in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Make, Inc .)