LESLIE: Now we’re heading on over to Kansas where Russ has a question about how best to install metal roof on barn. What can we do for you?
RUSS: OK. I’ve got a farm that I bought eight years ago and on the farm, there’s a very large, very old barn. A matter of fact, the loft is large enough that you could probably fit a regulation-sized basketball court inside of it. According to the graffiti inside the barn, it was built in either ’34 or ’38. And it was done originally with cedar-shake shingles with 1×4 stringers, what, about every 4 inches or about a 3½-inch space in between them.
TOM: Yep. I know the construction well.
RUSS: OK. And as you know, those cedar shingles are not going to be in very good condition as of this point. So I know I’m going to have to go up there. Trying to figure out a safe way to work up there so I can remove the cedar shingles, so I can prep it to go back with, probably, a metal roof. The question is – I’ll have to screw the roof down. The question is: am I – will I be able to go directly with the 1x4s with the metal roofing or would I be better off nailing everything fully and putting down some plywood or OSB?
TOM: Well, to install metal roof on barn, I think that a good roofer could work with the 1-by furring strips that are up there right now. Because, frankly, that’s the way metal roof was originally put down. It wasn’t put down on solid sheathing; it was put down on strips just like that. So I think that that’s a fine option for you. I don’t think you need to do the sheathing in this particular case.
If you were going to put down asphalt shingles, I’d tell you you need to sheathe it. But for a metal roof, you may have to do some additional carpentry to get the strips where you want them, to make the seams on the roof and so on, but I don’t see a reason for you to sheathe this barn. I think the metal can go right on top of that.
RUSS: OK. So patch the rotted 1x4s and maybe put in some where the seams are and we should be good that way?
RUSS: OK. Do you have any suggestions on how to safely work on a 45-degree pitch?
TOM: Yeah. Call a roofer to install metal roof on barn. It’s not a do-it-yourself project. I mean that’s a really high-end project and if you do it every day, you have all the appropriate safety gear and scaffolding and skill set to be able to work on that. That’s a very dangerous place to try out your do-it-yourself skills because handling those big sheets up there, you get a wind gust and you start flying off the roof. Those medical bills add up very quickly, so I would definitely recommend that you have a professional do this.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Are you dreaming of a new kitchen, but losing sleep over the costs associated with buying and installing brand new cabinets? Well, you can rest easy, for there’s another option: cabinet refacing. Kitchen cabinet refacing provides a quick and affordable way to completely transform the look of a kitchen without replacing a single cabinet. Refacing consists of installing all new cabinet doors and drawer fronts, but leaving the existing cabinets and drawer boxes intact. The face frames of the cabinets and any exposed ends are veneered or painted to match the finish on the new doors and drawer fronts. All the old knobs, pulls and hinges are replaced as well.
As you can imagine, cabinet refacing is a whole lot quicker and neater than ripping out your old cabinets and installing new ones. If you are ordering custom-made doors and drawers, you’ll need to allow a few weeks of manufacturing time beforehand. But while it usually takes six to eight days to replace cabinets in the average-size kitchen, installation for refacing only takes about three to five days. Plus, you can reface the cabinets without disturbing your existing countertops. However, not every kitchen is a candidate for refacing. Here’s how to determine if it’s a viable option for your kitchen.How to Evaluate Your Kitchen for Cabinet Refacing
The great thing about cabinet refacing is that it doesn’t matter how outdated, dingy or dilapidated the doors and drawer fronts are. What’s important is that the cabinets themselves, along with the drawer boxes, are in sound condition and good working order.Start by inspecting the inside of each cabinet to ensure there aren’t any obvious signs of structural damage, such as cracked side panels or loose bottoms. Gently poke around inside the cabinet with an awl or similar tool. If you discover any soft, spongy areas, that could be an indication of wood rot or water damage. Be sure that the upper cabinets are securely fastened to the walls and each other. Check base cabinets for water damage, too, especially under the sink. The bottom of the cabinets should be firm and flat, not warped, sagging or dislodged. The face frames, if any, must be firmly attached to the cabinets, and their edges and corners should be smooth and flat. Small cracks and holes can be filled with wood putty, but face frames that are split in two must be replaced. Make sure that all shelves are securely attached and not cracked, loose or warped.
With cabinet refacing, you gain new doors, drawers, hardware, slides and glides without having to uproot your whole kitchen. You can also choose to add new countertops or a backsplash during the refacing process.What’s the Difference: Kitchen Cabinet Refacing vs. Refinishing
Don’t confuse cabinet refacing with cabinet refinishing. While the terms are sometimes used synonymously, they have two separate meanings. As mentioned earlier, refacing includes the installation of brand new cabinet doors and drawer fronts. With cabinet refinishing, the old doors and drawer fronts are removed, refinished and reinstalled. Refinishing is a good option if you just want to freshen up the new look of the cabinets, but to completely transform your kitchen, consider refacing instead.The Cabinet Refacing Process Cabinet refacing includes the installation of all new hardware, including door hinges, and pulls and knobs for all doors and drawers.
Once you’ve determined that cabinet refacing is a viable option for your kitchen, you must decide whether to tackle the job yourself or hire a professional cabinet refacing contractor.
If you choose the DIY approach, start by measuring carefully to ensure that the new components will precisely fit the existing cabinets. You can order custom-made doors to fit your measurements, or buy prefinished, ready-to-install doors and drawer fronts. You’ll also need to purchase veneer and plywood for covering the face frames and exposed cabinet ends. You’ll also have to purchase all the necessary hardware, such as hinges, pulls and knobs. This is a large, time-consuming project to take on yourself, so consider this approach only if you’re an experienced DIYer.
While it may cost a bit more to hire a professional contractor for your kitchen cabinet refacing project than to do the work yourself, the upside is that the installation will be done faster and neater, and the quality of the work will be guaranteed by licensed professionals.
To find a suitable contractor, you could visit the kitchen showroom at a local home improvement center or schedule an in-home consultation, usually free of charge. A sales associate will explain the installation process and help you choose your new cabinet doors, drawer fronts and hardware.
Next, a professional will measure your kitchen cabinets, order the correct size and number of doors and drawer fronts, and schedule an installation date.
When the contractor arrives, he or she will start by removing all the cabinet doors and drawer fronts. The cabinet surfaces will then be prepped and the face frames veneered. Plywood panels will be attached to any exposed cabinet ends. The new doors and drawer fronts will be installed along with all new hinges, knobs and pulls. The contractor will then haul away debris and clean up the kitchen.
Therein lies the biggest benefit of cabinet refacing: Your dream kitchen can become a reality in just a few short days!
Editors Note: Joseph Truini is a carpenter with many years of experience advising homeowners on kitchen cabinets and other home storage solutions. He shares his expertise online for The Home Depot. To research cabinet refacing options, including those discussed by Joseph, you can visit The Home Depot’s website.
The post Kitchen Cabinet Refacing: Make Sense for Your Kitchen? appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
LESLIE: Elvis from Texas is on the line. He is in the building and he has a question about leaking Kitec plumbing pipes.
Elvis, what can we do for you?
ELVIS: My wife and I had a house built. Started back in early 2005 and it’s in Lubbock. Houses are made on concrete slabs.
ELVIS: Before they poured the slab, they put in a – with all the plumbing was installed. And instead of copper plumbing, which was in kind of short supply back in 2005, the going thing then was called Kitec. I think it’s K-i-t-e-c. And it’s a double-walled plastic pipe with aluminum in the center, instead of regular connections that use, if I’m understanding, a bronze connector. And we’ve had a couple of small problems with the plumbing but it seems as though I’ve read that the bronze can cause a delinkification (ph) in the copper.
And I’m wondering if there’s been any studies done, if there’s different fittings that can be replaced. If the plumbing has to be replaced, it’d be very labor-intensive to go underneath the house. And we get down to fairly low winters, maybe to zero, and I don’t think I’d want any plumbing overhead for it to freeze. Or if you have any suggestions or thoughts.
TOM: Yeah, Elvis. The problem with Kitec plumbing is, as you suspect, the fittings will leak.
Now, what’s interesting is that Kitec starts with PEX, which is cross-linked polyethylene which, by itself and as installed today, is actually an excellent plumbing pipe with fittings that don’t leak. But the Kitec system has definitely had a history of leaking. In fact, there are many class-action lawsuits over that product that are active and going on around the country. And you certainly should investigate those that you may qualify to join.
Unfortunately, your solutions only include, really, replacing the leaking Kitec plumbing pipes. And what I would advise you to do is to only replace it where it’s accessible. I mean I wouldn’t create the emergency if the emergency doesn’t exist, so I’m not going to tell you to tear open your walls and pull all the plumbing out and start from scratch. But I would say that if you do happen to be doing a bathroom renovation or you open a wall and you find Kitec, it should be sort of a matter, of course, where you always replace it. Because it’s not going to get any better; it’s only going to get worse.
ELVIS: Not news I wanted to hear but kind of what I suspected.
TOM: Yep. Unfortunately, that’s the case. Every once in a while, we get a building product like leaking Kitec plumbing pipes and I’ve seen it happen many times over the years. And there’s just no way to make it better because at its core, it’s a defective system.
ELVIS: OK. No way to just replace the fittings. It’s going to be the type that has problems.
TOM: That’s correct. So I would attach it to a plumbing – to copper piping or to traditional PEX piping.
ELVIS: OK. So I can talk with some local plumbers and discuss it from that point.
From Source Article: moneypit.com