Painting the exterior of your home is one of the most important types of home maintenance. And while many homeowners choose to hire a painting contractor, with a few house painting tips to keep in mind, this is one project you may be able to tackle yourself, especially if you have the time and you’re the least bit handy.
By doing your own painting, you can keep the cost to a minimum and you’ll also enjoy a great sense of accomplishment when your beautiful new exterior paint job is completed.
According to the Paint Quality Institute, there are four keys to successful exterior painting. Follow these expert tips and you’ll get a great-looking exterior paint job that will last for years.Careful Surface Preparation
Inexperienced painters can’t wait to begin applying the paint, but professionals know it’s what you do beforehand that spells success or failure with exterior home painting.
Before starting to paint, make sure the surface is clean and free of dirt and chalk. Scrub with soap and water, then rinse. Next, remove any loose, flaking, or peeling paint by scraping, wire-brushing, and sanding. Or, speed the whole process by renting a pressure washer to prepare the surface for painting.
On wood siding, sand areas with glossy paint so the new paint will adhere better. If you see any bare wood, be sure to spot-prime that area. You can skip this step if you are using an advanced, top-quality paint, since these coatings act as both primer and paint.
Finally, brush off any dust or paint chips that remain. With these house painting tips complete, your home exterior is now ready to paint.Buy Good Quality Paint
One of the most little known but important house painting tips to buy good paint! Even though the highest quality exterior paint costs a little more, you can’t afford to cut corners here: Your paint is the protective coating that keeps the elements at bay. Fortunately, even the best exterior paints are still rather inexpensive. Plus, since most of the work in painting is labor, you exterior paint job will last far longer when you use the best possible paint.
For the best performance, the Paint Quality Institute suggests you purchase quality 100% acrylic latex exterior paint. These paints have superior adhesion, so they’ll “grab” tightly onto a properly prepared surface. They also are very flexible, which permits them to expand and contract with the surface below in extreme cold or heat. Down the road, these qualities help prevent many common exterior paint failures like peeling and flaking.
There are other benefits to the highest quality 100% acrylic latex paints: they typically hide better than ordinary paint, which is especially important when painting over a dark color. They are easier to apply by brush and they typically contain special additives to help keep mildew in check.
Despite their higher cost per gallon, top quality 100% acrylic latex paints actually save you money and time. How? Because the best of these paints function as both primer and paint, so you won’t have to buy and apply two types of coatings to your home exterior. Plus, top quality home exterior paints typically last 10 years or more compared to three or four years for ordinary home exterior paint; so they are actually much cheaper when you consider their cost-per-year-of-service.Use Quality Brushes and Tools
The best quality tools and accessories not only help you apply a thicker, more uniform coat of paint to your home exterior, but they’ll also make your work easier.
Choose well-balanced brushes with tightly packed bristles that feel springy when you run an open hand across them. Assuming that you are applying latex exterior paint, you should work with brushes and rollers made of synthetic materials such as polyester.
Of course, you can also rent spray-painting equipment. If you do, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully.Paint in the Right Weather Conditions
Exterior painting is not a foul-weather sport. In fact, braving it may actually compromise the quality and long-term performance of your exterior paint job.
As a result, try to paint your home exterior in moderate weather – when temperatures are no higher than about 85 degrees, with little wind. These conditions will permit your paint to form a durable, protective film that will last for years.
When painting on warmer days and in hotter areas, avoid painting in direct sunlight, since surface temperatures can be 10 to 20 degrees higher than the air temperature. Work your way around the house, painting areas that are in the shade.
Weather-wise, latex exterior paints offer a bonus: They can be applied just 30 minutes after it rains as long as the surface isn’t visibly wet.
There’s more to exterior home painting than meets the eye, but the project is well within the skill set of most do-it-yourselfers. By following these exterior painting tips, you can save a bundle by doing the job yourself.
For more information about exterior home painting and more house painting tips, visit the Paint Quality Institute’s website at www.paintquality.com.
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From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here to help you tackle your next home improvement adventure. What’s on the to-do list today? Give us a call. Let’s talk through it at 888-666-3974.
Coming up on today’s show, if your child’s room is space-challenged and maybe you’re thinking about making some changes so you don’t have to, I don’t know, step on Legos anymore, we’re going to have some tips to help you design a room that can grow as fast as they do.
LESLIE: And let me tell you, stepping on those Legos, especially in the middle of the night barefoot, it’s not a fun thing (inaudible).
LESLIE: Alright. And also ahead, you know, between bad weather and more deliberate forms of vandalism, mailboxes really can take a beating. We’re going to have tips on how to build a mailbox that can stand the test of time and the neighborhood kids.
TOM: And now that spring rains are upon us, is your house truly watertight? We’ve got tips on how to prevent all the sneaky ways water finds its way in, just ahead.
But first, let’s take your calls, your questions and get you some answers, 888-666-3974, 888-MONEY-PIT. Give us a call right now.
Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Anastasia in Colorado is on the line with a bathtub question. What’s going on?
ANASTASIA: Well, I have a tub drain. Trying to get that out – the drain out because it’s – I can’t put a plug in it now. So, what I’ve tried is the drain-remover tool or it’s a plug wrench. And then I also tried that flaring tool to get it out and neither one of them works, because the little crosshairs in the bottom aren’t still in there, because it’s from 1960 tub.
TOM: Oh. So you have nothing to grab onto, is that what you’re saying?
ANASTASIA: Yeah. So, I’ve tried to get WD-40 in there, underneath the tray, but I can’t reach under there. And then I could crawl under the house but I don’t want to do that. So I was trying to think of a better way of getting it out.
TOM: If I understand it correctly, this normally would unscrew but what you’re driving – what you’re trying to grab onto is either stripped or completely gone.
TOM: I have only two suggestions for you. Number one is to hire a plumber, which is probably – you didn’t need me to tell you that. But I will say that the plumbers deal with this kind of thing all the time. And secondly, if I was a plumber and I was faced with this and there was absolutely no other way to get this off, I would probably drill it off and chisel it away, which you could do with a cold chisel.
And it’s not a pleasant process and it’s time-consuming and kind of a pain in the neck but when all else fails and you’ve just got nothing to grab onto, that’s a way to get it done.
ANASTASIA: Alright. That’s what I thought but I thought you might have a little trick up your sleeve.
TOM: But that’s a trick but it’s a lot of hard work. Anastasia, thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Art in Pennsylvania is on the line working on some storm repair. Tell us what happened.
ART: About a month ago, we had a windstorm and it took off three sections of shingles off of the roof. And I was able to retrieve them. They were, ironically, in pretty good shape.
But I remember seeing a program on PBS where they were redoing homes down in Florida, in the section where they get a lot of storms down there. And I think there is a requirement for the way that shingles are to be installed down there and I’m thinking, if I remember it right – and I didn’t have a chance to see the whole program. But on mine, when I took mine off, there was only like three nails in each of these shingles there. And I think, if I remember correctly, that down there they were requiring that there be more nails than that used to install shingles.
TOM: Well, Art, your goal now is to replace the shingles that you lost. And did you save the shingles? Were they intact enough to use the actual shingle for the repair? Because this way, the color will match.
ART: Yes. Yes, they were; they were in very good shape, yes.
TOM: Alright. So then what I would do is I’d get back up there and – assuming you can do this safely – and you’ll nail the new shingles back in. You want to put nails – you can put them pretty much where the old nails were but of course, not in the same holes because they’re going to be broken-through now.
You can’t really put too many nails on them. If you want to put an extra nail or two, that’s fine. But the key is after you get done nailing all of these down again, what I want you to do is to get an asphalt cement. And you can get it in a caulking tube and put a little dab under the loose end of the shingles so that the tab presses down and reseals. Because when shingles are new, they have an adhesive on the back of the tab that seals it to the shingle below. But when they’re torn off, that adhesive is gone. So you put a little dab of asphalt cement in there and that will keep it in place and stop it from sort of lifting up the next time you get a strong wind that comes across. Does that make sense?
ART: OK. Well, I thank you very much. You’ve been very helpful.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit. What’s your how-to or your décor question? What are you working on? Call in now at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They make it fast and easy to find top-rated home pros you can trust for any home project.
TOM: And just ahead, is your child’s room space-challenged? We’re going to have some tips to help you design a room that can grow as fast as they do, after this.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And hey, whether you’re planning a décor project, remodeling your kitchen, your bath, fixing a leak or fixing a squeak, we are here for you every step of the way. So call in your question, right now, to 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
And sometimes, a small repair can feel like it turns into a major remodel.
LESLIE: What happened?
TOM: I had an issue this week. Our dishwasher stopped working. All of a sudden, we noticed that there was no water coming out and we had that kind of scary, burning kind of a smell.
LESLIE: Oh, yeah.
TOM: So, yep, killed the power. Decided it was an older dishwasher; it wasn’t worth fixing. So I ordered up a new one and then as I was waiting for it to come in, which took a couple of days, I decided I had some time to yank out the old one. So I yanked out the old one and underneath the dishwasher, to my surprise, was nothing but a wet, mushy mess. There had been a very slow leak that had gone undetected for a long time and it rotted out a good piece of that floor. I was surprised. We saw nothing, we smelled nothing. There was no evidence of it whatsoever.
LESLIE: I’m surprised the dishwasher didn’t fall into the basement.
TOM: I know, right? So I yanked this out. I’m like, “Oh, my goodness. You’ve got to be kidding me,” and picking up these pieces of what was like plywood. And it looks like mud in my hands. It was terrible.
So not to mention the fact that I’ve got a really old house, so I didn’t really have a square hole for my dishwasher. I went in thinking it was a parallelogram, like the sides were square. I decided, I think it was – what’s the other one where they’re all different? Is it rhomboid, where there’s four of them that just – sides that just – nothing lines up? So I had to kind of start with a level platform and work it up to a flat, level space and then just kind of let everything else sort of fall where it was.
So, all of those folks that we talk to on air and online through social media go, “Oh, your house must be perfect.” Yeah, not so much. We have the same issues going on as you do in your house. So give us a call and we will help you through what’s going on, 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Tony in Florida is on the line with some noisy plumbing. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
TONY: It’s in the walls. It seems like the clanking is going on in the walls. And I can’t get to the pipes because they’re hidden – they’re all covered by the walls. So every time I put the faucet on, hot or cold, bang, it’s one slam and that’s it. That’s what I get. And I’m just wondering, is there some easy, quick fix for something like that, you know?
TOM: Yeah. So does this happen, Tony, when you open and close the faucets? Is that when it’s worst?
TOM: Alright. That’s called “water hammer.” And what water hammer is – you have to remember that water is very heavy; it weighs, actually, 8 pounds per gallon. And so, as the water is traveling through the plumbing line and you open or close a faucet, the inertia of that water just keeps moving. And it’ll shake the pipe and that’s what makes the banging sound. And of course, pipes transmit sound like crazy and so you’re getting that kind of sound to it.
So, what can you do? There’s two things that you can do. All the piping that you could possibly access – so that would be like in the basement or crawlspace or attic. Any place where you can see a pipe, you want to add some additional strapping to the wall so that takes some of the bounce out of it.
The second thing that you can do is you can install – or have a plumber install – something called a “water-hammer arrestor,” which is, essentially, a shock absorber for a plumbing system. And it will take that inertia from the water and absorb it slowly so it doesn’t bang the pipe.
But what you’re describing is a very typical, very normal condition in an older house. Generally, unless it’s really super-bad, doesn’t cause damage. But it’s more of an annoyance than anything else.
Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Pam in Missouri is on the line with a lighting question. How can we help you today?
PAM: I have fluorescent lights in my kitchen and two other rooms and they are recessed into the ceiling. They’re the kind like you would put maybe into a shop: those 3- or 4-foot-long tubes, T8 bulbs that I hear are going away?
TOM: Yep. Yes. Uh-huh.
PAM: What can I do?
TOM: So, are you having trouble finding the bulbs? Is that what you’re concerned about?
PAM: I am not now but I’m – hear that they will be not used anymore.
TOM: Yeah. But they last so darn long. Why don’t you just go shop online and buy a case of them and call it a day? I mean really. Yeah, they’ll be harder to find but they’re going to be available, because a lot – there’s a lot of industrial folks that use those in offices and that sort of thing. So I wouldn’t fret too much about that.
Listen, if you want to change your lights at some point, then you can plan that project. But I wouldn’t tell you to rip out and remove all your lighting fixtures now just because you’re worried about a supply problem. I’d just go pick up a case of these things. They last forever. And then put the project off until you’re ready to do some real remodeling.
PAM: I’d rather do that because, otherwise, I’d have a big hole in the ceiling that would have to be patched.
TOM: Yeah, exactly. It’s a bigger project for you because they’re built-in. So you’re going to have to take them out, you’re going to have to drywall over the holes. It’s a big job, so – no, I would just pick up a case of the bulbs and live with it for a while, OK?
PAM: Great. That’s easy for me. Thanks.
TOM: Yeah, they’re not too expensive. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, is your child’s room space-challenged? If you’re tired of tripping over Legos or dealing with lost puzzle pieces, we’ve got some easy décor tips that can help you design a room that can really change as fast as they do.
First, you always want to plan spaces that can grow with your child. Now, that includes everything from choosing a color palette that’s going to work and serve for the long-term backdrop for all their ever-changing tastes and interests and buying better furniture pieces. Now, that includes everything from choosing paint colors that can serve as sort of a long-term backdrop for all of those ever-changing tastes and their interests and buying better furniture pieces that can really stand up over time.
LESLIE: Yeah. That’s super important. The room has got to grow with the kid.
Next, you want to think about smart storage. And storage, perhaps, has the biggest impact on the design of a kid space, as it not only gives you the room you need to hide all of their stuff – and they’ve got a lot of stuff – but it also frees up floor space for any activities that you want to have in the room. And that’s important to design in.
Now, storage needs to be flexible for their changing needs. Now, closets are always a great place to find storage but that’s only if they’re organized. So, think about your closet and what you can do to get the most use of the space in there. Is it adding smart organizers? Is it putting bi-level clothing rods? Look at what they’ve got in there, think about what they’re going to put in there and put pieces in that will help you store those items correctly.
And finally, be on the lookout for opportunities to create two-for-one solutions. If you can add a window seat, for example, that creates a great place to sit but it also gives you handy storage for toys or books. Really, think about double-duty items for kids’ rooms. It’s going to save you a lot of space and a lot of headaches.
TOM: For more tips, check out our brand-new post, “Create a Kids Room That Will Grow with Your Child.” That’s online, right now, at MoneyPit.com: “Creating a Kids Room That Will Grow with Your Child.”
LESLIE: Doug in Rhode Island is up next with an electrical question. How can we help you?
DOUG: I did some remodeling work in upgrading the island. And it used to be a floating island. And now that it’s fixed to the floor, I’m considering putting electrical outlets. And I’m just curious as to what might be the best location, as well as what the code – the electrical code – might require.
TOM: Well, are you over a basement or a crawlspace?
DOUG: I’m over a basement.
TOM: OK. Because what you’re going to want to do is run the wire up from the basement below, into the side of the island. Is it a standard kitchen cabinet that you’ve used to create this island with?
TOM: Because you can mount the electrical outlet, basically cut it into the side of the cabinet. You’re going to want it off the countertop, down below on the side of the cabinet. And the key safety aspect here is you want to make sure that it’s a ground-fault outlet. Those are the outlets that have the test and reset buttons in them for wet locations.
DOUG: I did see something online concerning that.
TOM: Yeah. So as long as you use a ground-fault circuit interrupter outlet and you just bring the wire up from the basement, that’ll be the most practical way to do it. It’ll probably end up not being on the same circuit as the kitchen because, generally, what you do in a situation like that is you grab the closest power source that you can, that’s convenient and safe, and just kind of go up from there.
DOUG: OK. Sounds good. Thanks for your help.
LESLIE: Patrick in Iowa is on the line with a roofing question. How can we help you today?
PATRICK: OK. I bought a home; it was a for-sale-by-owner. The roof was put on about four or five years ago. And in the disclosure, he mentioned there was nothing wrong with the roof. But since moving in – now, being in Iowa, we get severe weather and I understand a couple shingles might rip off during a windstorm or something like that. But it’s literally – it’s daily, shingles are coming off.
So I patched some of the shingles but it is – it’s every time we get a wind, shingles are just blowing off. And so I ask him, “Can I have the name of the company that did the roof?” And so, I got the name and phone number and I talked to the workers that did it and they said, “We’ve been out there every single year, year after year. We told him it’s no longer covered. He has to pay for it himself.” And he – and they asked, “Didn’t he mention that in the disclosure?” And I looked through the disclosure and of course, there’s nothing in the disclosure that mentions anything about it.
TOM: Right. Of course. Yeah. Wow. Sounds like you have a pretty strong case of fraud.
PATRICK: And of course, I don’t want to go down a road that is going to take months and months and months or years. But it is – it’s just one of those cases that if it’s not in the disclosure – but then I can prove that it is. I mean is there any recourse whatsoever?
TOM: Well, yeah. The recourse is to hold him legally responsible for the cost of replacing the roof. And this is really more of a question for an attorney than for home improvement experts like ourselves.
But I was a professional home inspector for many years. I’ve seen these situations before. And if you have a seller that outright misrepresents the condition of part of the property on the disclosure, then they should be held liable for that and in some cases, can be held liable for multiples of what the actual damage is which, in this case, is essentially going to be the cost of a new roof.
PATRICK: And it’s not just that. If I was told, then I could have just budgeted for …
TOM: Right. You could have headed it off, exactly. But it’s – some people just want to make sure – just want to misrepresent their home and try to hide all the problems. And that’s why you have professional home inspectors out there which – by the way, did you get a home inspection done, Patrick?
PATRICK: Yes. There is a mortgage on it. Of course, the mortgage company did their inspections.
TOM: Well, no, besides the mortgage company, did you have your own, independent, professional home inspection done?
PATRICK: I did not.
TOM: Yeah. So that probably was a mistake. Because home inspectors work for you and not for the mortgage company. And a good-quality home inspector – for example, one that’s a member of the American Society of Home Inspectors – would have spent two to three hours going over that house and probably would have seen all of the repaired shingles. Because that’s something that’s actually fairly obvious to see.
So, unfortunately, you can’t focus on the past but you should try to hold the seller responsible and maybe you could take him to small-claims court. I don’t know. Again, question for a lawyer but it sounds like you’re going to need a new roof.
PATRICK: Well, I know that it’s a metal roof that’s going to be going on, so …
TOM: OK. Alright. Well, good luck. Sorry that happened to you, Patrick. Good luck with the project, though. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, between bad weather and more deliberate forms of vandalism, our mailboxes really can take a beating. Roger Cook from TV’s This Old House is stopping by with tips on how to build a mailbox that can stand the test of time.
TOM: And today’s edition of This Old House on The Money Pit is brought to you by ADT. Introducing ADT Go, the new family mobile safety app and service. Go to ADT.com to learn more today.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, whether you are buying, selling or just enjoying your home, we are here for you every step of the way. Call in your improvement or décor question now to 888-MONEY-PIT, presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
Kevin in Maryland, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
KEVIN: Hi. I’ve got a washer and a dryer on the second floor of my house. And it seems, in the last year, I’m getting a lot more vibration, a lot more sound out of those units. And I can feel it a lot more in the second floor. So I’m wondering if there’s anything I can do to kind of reinforce something in order to limit that vibration. Because I’ve got three small children now and my amount of washing and drying is not going to go down at all.
TOM: Well, two things. First of all, you want to double-check that the appliance is absolutely level. Because if it’s slightly out of level, you’ll get more vibration. Then the second thing that you could do is pick up some anti-vibration pads for the feet of the washing machine. These are like rubber blocks that are indented where the washing machine legs sort of sit inside of it. Then they sit on the floor and they help absorb some of the vibration.
I have the washer and the dryer actually stacked – full-size units – stacked on the second floor of my house. And I put the anti-vibration pads in it and whenever the machine is spinning, I can literally look at those pads and see them working, because the vibration is really being absorbed by them. And in fact, I have – also have the washer sitting inside of an overflow pan that’s made out of fiberglass. So to get that to work, I had to sort of carve the bottom of the vibration pads to fit sort of the angle of the pan that they’re sitting in. So even with that modification, they work and they work well.
So I would pick up the anti-vibration pads. They’re about 25 bucks for a set of four and you could find those online or I think I found mine at Home Depot.
KEVIN: Alright. Thank you very much.
TOM: Alright, Kevin. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, the roadside mailbox at your driveway may be the first impression your house makes to visitors. And there are some very decorative and stylized options available now.
TOM: Well, that’s right. But roadside mailboxes also need to be built tough to stand up. Between bad weather, snowfall, snow plows and the occasional more deliberate forms of vandalism, mailboxes can take a real beating.
Here to teach us how to build a mailbox that can stand the test of time and everything else is landscaping contractor Roger Cook from TV’s This Old House.
ROGER: Thank you. And I’ve got to tell you that this winter wreaked havoc on mailboxes in the New England area.
TOM: I can only imagine. In New Jersey, as well, there were – seemed to be more laying down than standing up.
ROGER: Between the snow that was pushed on top of them or the plows hitting them themselves, the lawns were literally littered with mailboxes in the spring.
LESLIE: Once it all melted.
TOM: Alright. So, Roger, let’s say the snow has melted and we saw the scattered remains of our formerly beautiful mailbox. We’ve got to put it back together or we’re going to build one right from scratch. The position of that mailbox is really important; it’s actually controlled by the federal government, correct?
ROGER: It is very important but there’s one more step that is really super important and that’s calling your utility-locating service.
ROGER: Now, you can reach them by dialing 811 nationwide.
TOM: So, across the country, 811 works.
ROGER: Right. And they’re going to come out and you have to give them 72 hours and they’ll mark out all the utilities in the street. So you’ll know that – where you can put in the mailbox and not hit, say, a gas line. Because taking your post-hole diggers and digging a hole in a gas line can ruin your whole day.
TOM: That’s right.
LESLIE: And that’s really because the location of the mailbox is just on the perimeter of your property. And that’s, you know, really the property of the town/village/city. That’s where they put all those utilities for your home and everybody else’s.
ROGER: Yep. That’s where all the lines tend to be.
TOM: Now, once we’ve cleared that the lines are not there and we’re safe to dig, what’s the key to making sure that that mailbox can really stand up?
ROGER: Well, first you have to consider that when you’re putting it in, that the federal government has regulations. They want that mailbox 41 to 45 inches high and they want it 8 inches back from the street. Once you have those measurements and you know where you’re going to put it, then you can decide what type of material you want to work with. There’s everything from plastic, wood or even wrought iron.
TOM: Now, when you set that mailbox post, that’s really the first part here. Digging that hole, concrete? No concrete? Stone? What do you think?
ROGER: Well, if it’s vulnerable to snow and a plow, I would say put concrete around it. If it’s not, just pack it in good gravel and it should be OK.
LESLIE: How do you make sure that that post is square and standing up straight?
ROGER: They make a special level – a fencepost level – that fits onto the board of the mailbox. And it’s great because you tie it, strap it onto the mailbox. Your hands are free and you can just look at it as you’re moving that post around and level it up very easily rather than taking the handheld and going from one side to the other. Makes short work of leveling up the post.
TOM: Now, you mentioned the materials before. PVC is becoming very popular. Is that strong enough to stand up as a mailbox post?
ROGER: You have to reinforce it a little bit. What we do is we either slide a 6×6, if it’s a 6×6 vinyl post, inside it and that’ll give it some strength. Or we fill it with concrete.
TOM: Alright, Roger. And as a final tip, when we’ve got that new mailbox installed, any tips for landscaping around it?
ROGER: I like to use some perennials around it or some real hardy annuals, because it’s going to be a high-traffic area.
ROGER: So you want to make sure whatever plants are there can withstand the traffic.
TOM: Good advice. Roger Cook from TV’s This Old House, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit with a plan to build a mailbox that will never miss a letter, moving forward.
ROGER: Hey, Tom, they have this new thing? It’s called email.
LESLIE: Alright. And now that Tom and Roger won’t be getting any mail this year, you can catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For your local listings and a step-by-step video on how you can install a new mailbox, visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House is brought to you by Marvin Windows and Doors.
Up next, now that spring rains are in full swing, it’s a good time to make sure your home is leakproof. We’ll have tips to help you keep it dry, from your roof all the way down to your basement, after this.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to talk with you about your next home improvement adventure. We call them “home improvement adventures” because if you think about it, adventures are exciting, they’re exhilarating and they never quite end up exactly like you planned, right?
LESLIE: You don’t really know where they’re going.
TOM: And that’s what happens with a home improvement project. So, whatever is going on in your money pit, we’d love to hear about it, right now, 888-666-3974. Or you can also post your question to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: We’re going to talk with Dot in Wisconsin who’s got a decking question. How can we help you with your project?
DOT: Yes. My deck is located on the south side of my house and every year, we’ve been putting a paint on it. And it’s where we get a lot of sun. And I’m wondering if there’s a special kind of paint I should use, because it peels a lot.
TOM: So, there are special paints for decks. And if you’re continuing to put more coats of paint on the old deck, my concern is that you’re never going to get good adhesion. You may have too many coats of paint on that now.
Are you using paint or stain, Dot?
DOT: I believe it’s a paint.
TOM: I’m afraid, at this point, what you really need to do is to remove that paint so you can get down to the original wood. Because you can’t put good paint over bad paint; it’s going to continue to peel. And once you get down to that wood, then you should prime it and then paint it.
But if you’re able to get most of the paint off – and perhaps you can because, apparently, it’s not sticking well, where you really don’t have too much left – then I would recommend not using paint on it. I would use solid-color stain. It’s still going to give you a continuous color but it’s going to absorb better into the wood and it’ll kind of fade rather than peel. And I think that’s what you’re shooting for.
DOT: OK. Is there a certain type of product to remove the stuff that’s on there now?
TOM: Yeah, there’s a wide variety of paint strippers out there. I would look for one of the citrus-based products and try that. You’re going to – you may have to try a couple of them until you find the one that works best with your particular deck.
DOT: OK. Thank you.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, now that the warm weather is ahead, it’s a good time to inspect the outside of your home for signs of wear and tear brought on by that winter weather. And I want you to start with a roof check. Now, you can do this safely by using binoculars to look for shingles that are missing or broken or buckling or blistering, any of which can cause a leak to occur.
LESLIE: Now, next you want to clean and inspect your home’s siding. Now, you can use a product like Spray & Forget to clear away all the dirt and algae. But remember, if you use a pressure washer, you want to make sure you adjust the setting carefully, based on your siding, so you don’t puncture any holes in whatever your siding is.
TOM: Next, you want to take a look at the angle of the grading at the perimeter of your home. You want to make sure it hasn’t settled so much that it no longer sort of drains water away from your house.
LESLIE: Yeah. Because you don’t want – now is the time that we start to hear about all of those spring rainstorms leaking into basements and crawlspaces. So you want to make sure that you add that soil, get rid of anything that’s settled down. Add more to it to maintain that slope and get everything going away from the foundation. That’s what you want: you want things to go away from your house.
TOM: Yep. And most importantly, be sure to keep those gutters clean and the downspouts extended, as well, because that causes so many flooding problems. It’s just unbelievable.
So, easy stuff to do. Really important. And every one of these steps will help you keep water out of your house.
LESLIE: OK. Let’s welcome Donna from North Carolina with some squeaking floors. What’s going on?
DONNA: We have a 13-year-old home in Raleigh, North Carolina, which was purchased as new construction. We have squeaky floors – wood floors – primarily in the kitchen, in front of the sink. Originally, we – there were shims placed between the joists to even the floor after we moved in. But after a first frost, there were raised areas of flooring, particularly in the kitchen. And some of the shims were removed to even the floors once again.
Currently, we’re selling our house and my concern is that when the purchaser employs a home inspector, that the squeaky floors would be so obvious that we would need to resolve the problem. And I wondered what you would suggest we do.
TOM: I was a home inspector for 20 years and I’ve never ever, in those 20 years, reported squeaky floors as a structural problem.
TOM: So, on that point, I don’t think you have a lot to worry about unless you have somebody that really doesn’t know what they’re talking about. Sometimes, if you get an inspector that is really under-skilled, they will take the minute, normal occurrences of a home and turn it into a major issue. But that’s it.
It is kind of annoying. And trying to figure out why it squeaks requires you understanding which part of that floor assembly is moving, because it’s evidence of movement. So, if there’s movement between the subfloor and the floor joist underneath, that could be one source. Or if there’s movement between the finished hardwood floor and the subfloor and the floor joist, that’s another type of movement.
You can deal with all of this if you were to be able to identify where – from the top side, from the kitchen side – the floor joists are underneath that area that’s loose. And then you can drive what’s called a “trim screw,” which is about as wide as a finish nail, with the proper prep. Which means you have to pre-drill the floor. But you can drive a couple of those into the hardwood floor to kind of tie it all together. And once you do that, you’ll find that you’ll quiet it down quite a bit. And the size hole that you’ll have to fill is no more than the width of a finish nail.
DONNA: OK. So the key is finding the joist, I would guess.
TOM: Floor joist. And there’s a way to do that, too. And you can do that by measuring it out or you could simply get a stud finder – a stud sensor. They have them today where they’re good enough where they can actually see through 2, 3 inches of building material and find the floor joist below with great precision. Stanley makes a number of very good-quality and inexpensive stud sensors that can do that.
But don’t panic. A squeaky floor is pretty much typical and it’s not indicative of a structural issue.
LESLIE: Oh, yeah. It’s just more annoying. And I think one of the benefits of you saying – you know, you seem to have so much knowledge of the shims and what’s going on there. It makes me feel like you have access to the thing, so it should be fairly easy for you to get to the bottom of.
DONNA: Alright. Well, thank you so much for that information. It’s encouraging.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Coming up, patios should be for collecting friends and family, not collecting rainwater. We’re going to have some tips for keeping the water off of your outdoor space, when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com, where you can find top-rated home improvement pros you can trust. Call in your home improvement question, 24/7, to 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Or post your question on The Money Pit Community section, just like Heather did.
Now, Heather writes: “ I have a concrete patio. It holds water when it rains and then turns green in the middle. My husband seems to think that the builder didn’t put a plastic barrier. How can I fix this or keep it clean? Thanks for your help.”
TOM: You know, your husband is right in that plastic often goes under concrete but it doesn’t go under concrete patios. You only use it under the floors inside your house, like when cement slabs are poured in basements and crawlspaces and even sometimes in garages. But for patios, you want water to drain off and you want it to drain through.
Your problem is that your patio doesn’t do that because it’s not sloped properly, Heather. And unfortunately, this is almost impossible to fix at this stage of the game. I mean you could put an additional layer of an epoxy compound of – an additional layer of concrete that’s specially formulated to stick to old concrete on top of that but it’s a difficult, messy undertaking.
And frankly, because it’s a patio, I’d rather just see you tear it out and replace it. It’s not that big of a deal and almost just as much work as would be to recoat the whole thing. You’ll be surprised that the average 4- or 5-inch-thick patio slab can be broken up with a jackhammer in probably a half-hour or less. And a little bit more time to cart all that away and pour a new one.
And when you do pour it, you might opt to do something like a paver patio, which doesn’t even require concrete underneath it and it looks really attractive. You just want to make sure you prep that base. That’s where most people make mistakes, whether they’re patios or pavers. They don’t prep the base. It’s got to be properly prepared with the right layers and the right kind of material and tamped down and sloped properly. And if you do that, you’ll no longer have any drainage issues and it can really last you a heck of a long time.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we have a post here from Jake who writes: “I have plaster walls in my house and they have cracks. I’ve tried to fix the cracks with paper tape and nylon wall tape but the cracks keep coming through. How can I fix them permanently?”
TOM: Well, cracks in plaster walls are pretty typical. It would be unusual to see a house that didn’t have them. When the plaster is first installed, it’s troweled through what kind of looks like wood sticks called “plaster lath.”
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Well, it gives it something to stick to otherwise.
TOM: Oh, I’m sorry, yeah, it’s either wood lath or plaster lath. But it’s troweled on and then it sort of spreads and that’s how it sticks to the wall. And when it cracks, as the structure settles, it’s pretty normal.
Now, one thing you can do with this kind of crack is you could use a repair product that’s like a plastic washer. It’s like a fender washer, in a sense, that it’s really wide and has a small hole. And essentially, you screw it right into the crack and it grabs both sides of that broken piece of plaster and pulls it in tight. And then you put a couple of layers of plaster over it or even drywall compound on top of it. And that will sort of secure it in place.
But I’d only do that if the plaster was really, really lose. If it’s just a normal crack, I wouldn’t worry about it. But if you feel like it’s in danger of falling, then I would try to repair it.
LESLIE: I mean plaster really does take a lot of upkeep. You have to really want to maintain that traditional plaster look and keep that in your home. But it takes work.
TOM: It does, it does. But we call it “charm.”
LESLIE: Right. It really is gorgeous.
It’s funny because our houses are both 100 years old. And mine has plaster walls in some areas and then you can see where the new pieces went up that are drywall. So I’ve got the mix.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, thanks so much for stopping by, spending a little time with us. We hope that we’ve fueled your passion for fix-up around your house, for décor, for repair, for improvement inside and out. If you’ve got questions, check out our website at MoneyPit.com. Community section right there. There is, I think, about 1,000 answered questions there right now, plus even more articles on the site at MoneyPit.com, as well as videos. You can also follow us on Facebook, on Instagram, on Pinterest. Or you can subscribe to our podcast on iTunes and Google Play.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
The post How to Decorate a Kid’s Space to Grow as Fast as They Do #0430181 appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are for one reason and one conclude merely: because we have nowhere else to be. No, actually, because we’re now to help you with your home improvement projects. That’s what we do every weekend, all weekend long. We never take a break. If you’ve got a question about what’s going on with a project around your home, if you want to plan a project to meet your residence more beautiful, to add some price to your home or precisely to fix something that’s really bugging the heck out of you, we are here to help. Help yourself first, though, by picking up the phone and calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
Coming up on today’s present, if your garden is literally going to the dogs, we’re going to have some easy gratuities for keeping your furry friends from spoiling lawns.
LESLIE: And also ahead this hour, perhaps you’ve been thinking about a vacation home or going somewhere really wonderful. Well, if that’s out of your contact, you are able to want to consider glamping. Now, glamping is short for glamour camping. And we’re going to see share some tip-off on how you can do that, simply by converting a camper or trailer into a really comfortable getaway that comes home with you after every trip.
TOM: Plus, are your carpets inspecting a little worn out? Well, one simple pace can become the difference between carpets that wear thin and those that last two or three times as long. We’ll have that gratuity, merely ahead.
LESLIE: And if you apply us a summon now with your home betterment question, you’re starting to get the answer plus the tools to help get the job done. We’re giving away a $50 set of Arrow implements and fixings, perfect for crafters, creators, DIYers and pros.
TOM: Give us a label, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Those tools may going to see you. The container includes the Arrow Heavy-Duty Staple Gun, the Mini Glue Gun and the Rivet Kit. Give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Sharon in Georgia, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
SHARON: Hi. I’m interested in tearing down a wall that’s between two rooms. And I’m wondering if I can do that by myself- I don’t have any ordeal at all- or if I- it’s something that I would need to have an expert do.
TOM: Maybe, maybe not.
LESLIE: It depends. What’s in the wall? Is it load-bearing?
SHARON: Yeah. How do you tell that?
TOM: Well, where is this wall? First of all, what various kinds of house do "youve had"? What mold is your house? Is it Colonial? Ranch?
SHARON: I have a- what do you call that- bi-level, where there’s an upstairs part and a downstairs constituent?
TOM: Bi-level? OK. Alright. And where is the wall?
SHARON: The wall- it’s two bedrooms and the wall is right between the two bedrooms.
TOM: Hmm. So is it parallel with the figurehead wall of the house and the back wall of the house or is it horizontal?
SHARON: It is perpendicular.
TOM: It’s most likely not a enduring wall; that is my sight-unseen assessment. I could be wrong but it’s most probably not. Because usually in a bi-level, the only demeanor wall is the center wall that goes down the centre, latitude with the front and the back wall of the house.
But even that said, what you can do, as a do-it-yourselfer, is you can tear out the drywall and get to that. But remember, once you do that, Sharon, you’re going to be having - you’re going to be looking at plumbing, you’re going to be looking at heating pipes, you’re "il be going" looking at wire , not to mention the fact that you’re going to see have to spot all that drywall. So, there’s a lot to it.
SHARON: Oh, really? I recalled I could be a do-it-yourselfer; I truly is ready to do the project myself. It just seems (inaudible).
TOM: Well, ogle, you can do it yourself. We don’t want you to become a do-it-to-yourselfer, alright?
SHARON: Oh, right.
TOM: So you really should not be doing the electrical exertion yourself. What you have been able do ...
SHARON: I am concerned about that part.
TOM: Yeah, what you could do is take apart all the drywall. That’s easy to do. But again, if ...
LESLIE: Yeah, take out the trimming, take down the drywall.
TOM: Yeah. Maybe if you get it all ready, you are able to have a carpenter "youre coming" draw the wall out and an electrician rerun the outlet and you’ll be done.
SHARON: Alright. Well, I just wanted some expert admonition about that.
SHARON: I’m glad you told me before I get in the centre of it.
TOM: Exactly. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve come Ben in Arizona who’s dealing with a situation of arachnophobia. What’s going on with those spiders?
BEN: Oh, not a whole lot. They seem like they’re overtaking our yard. I can mow and they just scatter everywhere. I kill anywhere from 30 to 50 of them every time I mow.
TOM: Do you have any hypothesi what kind of spider it is?
BEN: No. They call it- from what I’ve sounded, they call them “wood spiders.” And I don’t know if that’s what they’re- genuinely what they’re announced or not. But they’re brown and they’ve kind of went pitch-black streaks across their backs. And some of them are smaller than- some of them look like they can get to 2-inch diameter or so, something like that.
TOM: There’s actually a couple things that you can do to try to control these- the person of these wolf spiders. First of all, things that you can do on your own are to try to eliminate their nesting areas. And that are areas where you have bushes, ivy, forages or any seed that is right up against the house. Wood piles, lumber stacks, rock piles are all places where these spiders can nest.
But the most effective way to get rid of them is to use a pesticide. Now, you are able to either do this yourself or you can hire a pro. If you want to do it yourself, there is a pesticide dust that you can buy in a lot of places; I know it’s is accessible on Amazon. It’s announced EcoEXEMPT D Dust- the letter D- EcoEXEMPT D Dust. And it’s an organic, plant-based insecticide that’s ready to use. And it’s pet-safe, as well, which is important.
I’ve get to tell you, if I had minors and I had so much better of a problem, I’d probably have it done first by a professional and then I’d to be implemented with my own do-it-yourself pest limitation after. Because the products that the pros use are just much more effective. And they are absolutely safe if they’re applied by a trained professional according to label directions. Does that make sense?
BEN: OK. Alrighty.
TOM: Good luck with that programme. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are chanted to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on aura and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, neighbourhood residence better pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
Up next, when it comes to your garden and garden, man’s most special friend can feel like the adversary. We’re going to share some tips to keep your landscaping from get to the dogs, after this.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone and throw us a scold, right now, with your home betterment question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, presented by HomeAdvisor. Find out what it overheads to do your home campaign before you hire a pro and instantaneously work one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
And if you pick up the phone and call us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, we will likewise toss your word in The Money Pit hard hat, because we’re giving away a marvelous organize of Arrow tools and fastenings worth 50 horses. Perfect for crafters, manufacturers, DIYers, pros, you mentioned it. These are all made right here in Saddle Brook, New Jersey. They have been determining concoctions for 90 years, the Arrow Fastener Company. And the package includes the T50 Heavy-Duty Staple Gun, the MT300 Mini Glue Gun and the RL100 Rivet Kit.
And that staple handgun, Leslie, is one that you need to have if you like to do a little upholstery operate around the house. And I know that’s something you are aware about.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, it’s really important, when you’re working with upholstery, that you’ve got a staple gun with a long nose. It’s got to be lightweight, it’s got to be durable. It can’t jam, because you’re always sort of digging into the space and nursing fabric with one mitt and trying to get the staple gun with the other. So you want a staple gun that shells perfectly every time. And Arrow always delivers simply that.
TOM: You’ll get the tools plus all the fasteners, glue sticks and rivets you need to get the job done. Call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Janet in Illinois is working on a decorate assignment. How can we help you with that?
JANET: We have prescribed the material for the flooring of the deck and it’s going to be waterproof and where we have a patio beneath it. And we would like to finish the underneath place so that we can do some canned lighting or- and/ or some ceiling fans. And wondered what the best product would be to finish the underneath side.
LESLIE: To sort of waterproof it, block it from any sort of water, be it rain or snow, getting to that lower underside.
JANET: Well, the top produce is going to do that. So we just want to finish it so it’ll look nicer than just having the lumber picturing from the framework.
TOM: OK. Will this be exposed to the weather from the two sides, though? I understand you’re putting a ceiling over the top but will there be slopes on this or is it possible for breeze and downpour to blow in?
JANET: It is only possible for gust and downpour to blow in so, yeah, we would want that.
TOM: So you is necessary in order a good-quality product that’s going to seal and protect the wood.
So in that case, Leslie, I guess I would go with solid-color stain, a floor stain.
LESLIE: Yeah. But I think you’re looking for a material, first, to turn in the ceiling, correct, other than wood?
JANET: Right. Yes.
TOM: Oh, for the ceiling? The underside of the ceiling?
TOM: How about AZEK?
TOM: Yeah, -AZ-E-K. Yeah, AZEK is an extruded PVC product that’s offered in many different finishes. It’s synthetic, so it doesn’t decomposition and it doesn’t need paint.
TOM: So if you go to -AZ-E-K.com and look at a lot of the sheet concoctions ...
LESLIE: Yeah. I gambling there’s a beadboard or something that would look like a shingling or a panel for the ceiling.
LESLIE: That could be very lovely.
TOM: Right. But the deck skin-deep is also going to need some care. So that- for that surface, I would use a solid-color stain.
JANET: Alright. Audios wonderful.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Jason in Delaware is on the line and needs some help with an electrical update at their coin excavation. Tell us what’s going on.
JASON: Hi. Well, let’s understand. We bought an older home: probably like 1940, 1950. It’s a great home, no doubt about it. We thought we were going to have a bunch of problems: we thought we were going to have to replace the roof, we believe we were going to have to supplant the foundation. But it’s pretty much like somebody constructed the house and never truly lived in it.
TOM: I think we’re getting to a “but.” Everything’s immense but what’s happening?
JASON: But the breaker chest is outdated. And the total cost of replacing that - hiring a licensed and professional contractor and everyone- or the electrician to do it- is going to cost us around $5,000.
TOM: Alright. Why do you say it’s outdated? What’s mistaken with it?
JASON: It’s a 100 -amp box.
JASON: And you can’t run more than two air conditioners in the chamber of representatives at one time.
TOM: Take a gulp. I’ve went immense story for you, alright?
JASON: What’s that?
TOM: You don’t have central air, right? You’re running window cells?
JASON: Window units.
TOM: You do not need a brand-new committee. A hundred amps is path more than enough superpower to run that home. What you are required to ...
LESLIE: Unless you’re planning on clearing those updates.
TOM: Yeah. What you need are some new tours, which are easier to run.
TOM: You see, the reason you’re tripping those breakers is because whatever circuit those air conditioners are on is plucking more influence than that one circuit can handle.
Now, most circuits that go to bedrooms, for example, are 15 -amp circuits. You framed an breath conditioner or two on a 15 -amp circuit, it’s going to pop, specially an older air conditioner that’s not as energy-efficient, because it’s going to start pulling more strength. And if you happen to have those two air conditioners on the same circuit, there’s not a chance that you’re going to be able to run that when you have to.
What you do is you compute more routes. So you add another circuit that’s just for that air conditioner, from the degree where it’s installed to the panel. Put that on its own 15 -amp circuit there are still you have it; you’re done. No $5,000 for a brand-new panel.
See, this is another example- when electricians came to see you and they size you up and they give you world prices on doing a activity that you really don’t need. A hundred amps is a lot of supremacy. I doubt in a house that’s probably gas-fired- is that right? It’s gas-powered?
TOM: So you have a gas-powered house, so you’ve went gas heat, gas stove, gas spray heater. You know, if you drew 30 amps when everything was running in that house, I’d come as a surprise. So you don’t need a new box; you need more circuits.
JASON: OK. Well, thank you, guys, so very much.
TOM: Well, pups may be a man’s best friend or a woman’s best friend but they’re rarely your yard’s best friend.
LESLIE: That’s true.
TOM: I mean from their hoof freight to their messes, pets can really wreak havoc on landscaping.
LESLIE: Yeah. Trying to grow grass on a path that your pup has concluded is typically an uphill battle. So try installing a stone walkway over those moves instead. Now, your pup can still run where he misses, while you enjoy that beautiful stone walkway’s natural charm.
TOM: Or you could switch to hardscaping and sort of confine your pup to that gap with a traditional or an electric fence. Stone and masonry are easy to clean. And as an additional level of bonus, they keep your dog from excavating excavations and dragging that soil inside.
LESLIE: Now, if you can’t bring yourself to keep your dog from his beloved grass, switch to a variety that’s more pliable against foot and paw transaction, like Bermuda grass or Kentucky bluegrass.
TOM: Or if the issue is pup spots- naked patches that are caused by a dog’s byproducts- well, you might want to consider planting a lawn made of clover. It stands up better to what your pets leave behind- their behind- so to speak.
LESLIE: Laura in South Carolina is just not enjoying the savour of a popcorn ceiling. Tell us what’s going on over there.
LAURA: Well, a tree descended on the roof of our live, which generated the ceiling to crack in the bedroom.
TOM: Yep. Mm-hmm.
LAURA: And we’ve gotten the roof attached and all those things deposited and everything. And we are therefore redid the drywall and the plaster up in the ceiling. But we can’t match the popcorn so that you can tell or not tell that there’s been shatter. And we don’t know what to do.
TOM: How have you tried to patch it?
LAURA: Well, we made- we patched it first. We removed the section that had actually come through the ceiling and put new- the brand-new ceiling up.
TOM: Yep. Yeah.
LAURA: And then we plastered over the rift, "because theres" two crannies where the leading edge of the- the diameter of the tree was, all the way to the middle of the ceiling
LAURA: And so we plastered that and then we tried to use that popcorn composition that you get at Lowe’s or Home Depot.
LESLIE: In the spray can?
LAURA: And you- yeah, in the little- no, we are seeking to the spraying but that was so, so muddled. And then we got the can of it- the little container of it- where you use the putty knife or the paintbrush?
LAURA: And tried to settled that up but it does not- it ogles gruesome; it looks like water is dripping or large-hearted dribble marks.
LAURA: And it really does not match at all and we don’t know what to do.
TOM: So, did you file an insurance claim for this act of God?
LAURA: Oh, yeah.
TOM: You did?
LAURA: It wasn’t actually an routine of God; it was a dead tree from the neighbor’s house that fell.
TOM: Oh, OK. But it’s is covered under insurance, claim?
LAURA: Yeah, insurance policies took care of it.
TOM: So why didn’t they go all the way and exactly rehabilitate the ceiling? If this was something that is covered by insurance and you had a popcorn ceiling and you deserve to have that ceiling restored, why didn’t they just pay for a painter to come in with the popcorn-ceiling machine and time respray the whole thing?
LAURA: Well, it was kind of a mistake on our duty because there was a gentleman that lives in the neighborhood who’s a contractor that we got. And then he finished the outside and most of the inside but didn’t finish that part.
TOM: Alright. Well, live and learn. I mean you probably can go back to them but gape, are you really in love with the popcorn ceiling? Because most people are not; most of the labels we get about popcorn ceiling is the way to get rid of it.
LESLIE: How to get rid of it.
TOM: So, the other option here is just to get rid of what’s there and equal it all.
TOM: And you can do that. It’s not really that hard to do. You lessen the ceiling with - you can use a pump-up sprayer to employ a little bit of a ocean scatter on it: not severe , not a lot but just enough to dampen it. Then you can scrape away the popcorn with a putty pierce or with a drywall bayonet, like a spackling blade?
TOM: And you get that off the entire ceiling that room. And then you primary the whole thing and then you paint it with a flat depict, because it won’t reflect light when it affects across the flat make-up. And that usually blends in quite nicely.
So, if you’re not satisfied with the patching- because it sounds like you’re employing the liberty products. And if it’s not glancing right to you and you can’t have the part ceiling regenerated, then why not get rid of the popcorn that remains and just go with a popcorn-free ceiling?
LAURA: Yeah, that might be the best- but I didn’t know how hard it would be to remove that ceiling, we are therefore didn’t want to start something we didn’t know if we could finish, like ...
TOM: Yeah, it’s not easy but it’s not atrocious, either. So, that’s- I think that’s your best approach.
LAURA: Yeah, it sounds like it’s "il be going" our merely option at this station. Alright. Well , thank you for coming in. I appreciate it.
TOM: Well, you’re very welcome. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
You know, I don’t know if Laura did this but if you do have something that you can file with your policy corporation for shield on- for coverage on, I "re saying" - you really want to get a public adjuster in at the get-go. Because public adjusters work for you, not the insurance company. They work on a percentage of the claim. They’re always going to find more than the insurance-company adjuster does.
And this is a perfect example of the kind of thing they would not miss. They wouldn’t put in for the popcorn ceiling to be patched; they would include a big plan digit for the entire thing to recover, perfectly supplanted. And if you do that at the get-go of a project like this, it’s going to come out better.
And the other lesson, I guess, Laura learned is never hire the nice male that lives around the corner to do your project when- get enough money for it and have a professional do it. It’s not a part-time job.
LESLIE: No. And it is possible to never resolve well when implementing a neighbor’s help.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Accord us a request with your home amend or your home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’re still dreaming of making that time trip but you don’t have a big budget, we’ve got some ideas for creating vacation memories all year long without violating the bank, coming up when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on on this fine summer day? If it’s your live, your garden, your condo, your co-op, you’re in accurately the claim locate because we are here to lend a hand. Call us, right now, with your questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Maryann in Virginia is on the line with a roofing question. What can we do for you today?
MARYANN: We had a awful windstorm here about a month ago and it really unleashed ravage to the roof. There were a lot of loose tiles and ...
TOM: What kind of roof do "youve had", Maryann?
MARYANN: It’s really the basic asphalt roof right now?
TOM: Asphalt-shingle roof? OK. Yeah, you said tiles; I time want to make sure we knew what various kinds of shingle you had, OK?
MARYANN: Yeah. Freedom. And there’s just like one stratum of shingles on and so the question that I have, really, is- the roof is only 17 years old and I know, merely from living there 16 of those years, that we’re going to get these windstorms. And what I would like to know is what would be a good roof to change this with or should be used situate a second roof on top of it or a metal roof?
TOM: OK. So, kind of a multi-part question.
First of all, let me ask you, how long do you expect to stay in the house, Maryann?
MARYANN: Oh, a good while.
TOM: Like a good while, like the entire life of the new roof?
TOM: OK. So, here’s what I would suggest. First of all, if you’re going to be in the house a long time, we always recommend removing the first layer of shingles, not putting a second layer on. And here’s why: if you introduced a second layer of shingles on, because the first layer is underneath, it tends to act as sort of a hot submerge. And because it stands hotter and warmer longer, it more rapidly evaporates the lubricants and different fabrics that are in the shingles and justifications them to flunk quicker. So, the jug the roof, the better. Take off the first layer of shingles.
And so far as making sure that the ceiling is not going to blow off, there are high wind-resistant shingles that you can buy.
LESLIE: And Owens Corning, they make a very attractive, kind of dimensional-looking asphalt shingle that I want to say goes up to 120 miles. So I- an hour. I would start off with their website. But you clearly want to get a roofing shingle that’s made to withstand high winds.
And there are even some that will maintain higher puff puffs there if, say, you’re in Miami-Dade County. But I don’t think you need to be that crazy.
MARYANN: Alright. Well, thank you very much.
TOM: Well, if you’d like to take off for a relaxing trip but do that on a budget, you might want to consider what some call “glamping, ” which is pretty much the opposite of roughing it. You get to enjoy the great outdoors but with all the comforts of home. And you can take it one step further and kind of glam up your camper to create a vacation home on wheels.
LESLIE: Yeah. Just imagine a pop-up trailer tricked out with the best bunking and beautiful decor. You can tent near the sea or lake and now you’ve got a home right on the sea. The best part is since you can park it in your driveway after the vacation is over, you don’t need to worry about flood insurance or hurricane impair that get together with a vacation property.
Now, this new trend of glamping is something that you can take advantage of, even when you’re not apart. You can create a guesthouse, department, human cave, even exactly some additional seat that’s only steps away from your home for you to escape to. The next time your teen multitudes a sleepover, you don’t have to lose any sleep.
TOM: Now, there are a lot of possibilities and you can do this at a fraction of the cost of a second home. And if you look for vintage campers to refurbish, they can be a very cost-effective project.
That’s what we’re all about: acquire affordable ways to get those projects done around your home. Give us a see, right now, if you’ve got a specific project in thinker. And that figure is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Steven in South Carolina is on the line with a irrigate heater that seems to be leaking. And it’s only four months age-old, so that’s not good. Tell us what’s going on.
STEVEN: Leslie, I consider myself a home better master.
STEVEN: And I put in this new water heater in a rental part that I have- a rental unit/townhouse. And I went over there the other day and noticed that the pressure-relief valve is slowly leaking. And I can’t figure out why it would be leaking.
TOM: Well, Steven, there’s two reasons it could be leaking: the first is that you have a bad pressure-relief valve; the second largest is that your water heater is not working precisely and it’s actually building up excess pressure. And as a result, the valve is doing exactly what it’s intended to do, which is to open up if the pressure in the valve surpasses- or the pressure in the barrel outstrips 150 pounds. So which is it? That is the question.
And I wouldn’t recommend that you do this project yourself. But I approximate the first thing I would do is probably oust that valve and see if it is still happen.
TOM: The interesting thing that you could try to do is you could try to let a little bit of water out of it. Since it’s previously disclosing, it’s probably not going to get much worse. We almost never tell people to do this because sometimes, if there is a little crud in the ocean from clay or debris that’s inside the plumbing system in your house, it can actually obligate the leaking worse. But if it’s previously revealing pretty bad, I would open and close that little valve lever- the bar on the side of the valve that releases some stres- a few meters. Simply make some irrigate blast out of that and see if it resets.
But if it continues, then there’s something wrong with the ocean heater and it’s doing its job.
STEVEN: Well, let me ask you this. What about- I employed it in the same way it was installed 10, 12 year ago. And it’s time the hot water out, cold water in. And isn’t there some kind of a diaphragm-type valve or something that can go on the newer water heaters?
TOM: It doesn’t- it’s not for that, OK? You may be talking about a water-hammer arrestor but this has nothing to do with the pressure in your irrigate heater. The spray heater is an device that’s designed to work by itself. It’s designed to heat the spray and deliver the spray to your domestic plan. And specifically, if it’s not doing that correctly, in terms of this valve, it’s going to open up and prohibited from rupturing.
So , no. The irrigate heater is not supposed to leak and if it is leaking, something’s wrong- either a bad valve or a bad water heater- and you’ve got to get to the bottom of it.
STEVEN: I relish your insight.
TOM: Alright. Good fortune with that project.
STEVEN: Yeah, hopefully. Hopefully, it working out for me.
TOM: Alright. I’m sure it will. Steven, thanks so much for announcing us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a ask with your home fixing or your home improvement question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Still to come on the indicate, steam-cleaning is a simple way to stir your carpeting last longer if it’s done right. We’re going to have some tips, after this.
TOM: Spawning good residences better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: The Money Pit is presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a racket. Merely use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a same project. That’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
You know what else is free, Leslie? We’ve got some free implements to give away.
LESLIE: That’s right. We’ve got a $50 set of Arrow implements and fixings that are excellent for crafters, creators, DIYers, even pros. We’re giving up, this hour, the Arrow T50 Heavy-Duty Staple Gun, a Mini Glue Gun and a Rivet Kit.
Now, the Mini Glue Gun, it’s compact, it’s easy to use and it’s perfect for a huge range of DIY and crafting projects. Even immense for upholstery, general household reparations, institution, crafting projections. Such a awesome implement to keep in your handy drawer at home.
Give us a summon. You’ll get the tools plus all the hooks, glue stays and studs that you need to get started. And that’s all going out to one lucky listener.
TOM: The figure is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Pat in South Dakota is on the line with a paint activity. How can we help you?
PAT: Can you repaint vinyl placing?
TOM: Yes. You can repaint vinyl- well, you’d be painting it, first , not even repainting it. But I will tell you this: once you cover, you do "re going to have to" repaint. So, you’re not going to have the maintenance-free service that you had once before. You will have to repaint it.
Now, that said, if you’re going to do the repainting or you’re going to paint it, you want to make sure that "youre using" a produce that’s designed specifically for vinyl siding. And I would only use a product from a top label like Benjamin Moore or Sherwin-Williams. They both have their own line of vinyl-siding paint. So choose your colour carefully, make sure it’s good-quality paint and keep in mind that eventually you’re going to have to repaint it.
PAT: OK. That was what I wondering. Thank you so much.
TOM: Good luck. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you’ve get wall-to-wall carpeting at home, you know that with girls, babies and merely general kinfolk freight, that can all lead to your carpeting coming moderately dingy looking very quickly.
Now, fortunately, it’s not hard to steam-clean them yourself. This is something that you can do, at least formerly a year, to keep your carpets glancing brand-new and reeking fresh. And it’s going to used to help last longer, as well. Because the number-one reason that carpets wear out is clay. It’s like sandpaper that gets ground into that carpet every time you walk on it. And then that breaks down the fibers.
TOM: I am ever shocked with what a great activity a steam cleaner can do. You know, I’ve had babies in college. And when it gets to the end of its first year and it’s time to move out, that carpet has not been touched for nine months. The last-place term it was clean was when they moved in and now they’re moving out and it’s merely altogether gross, because you can never nail them down to move stuff out of the route. And I tell you what, each year I anticipate I’m going to have to buy carpet for this place, because it merely glances so terrible. And more I rent a steam cleaner and it all comes up.
So, steam cleaners do a great job at that heavy-duty cleaning. And like you say, that dirt is actually what wears down those carpet fibers. So if you keep your carpet well vacuum-clean, you steam-clean once a year, it’s going to last a long time and keep your home feeling and looking fresh.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve went Charles on the line.
Charles, what’s going on at your coin cavity?
CHARLES: We’re in North Central Louisiana and we get up in the 90 s with the high-pitched humidity. But exclusively, my house was built in' 91 and I’ve got good insulation in my attic: the roll-type insulation. About 8 inches of it. And then we keep another 3 inches of blown separation on it.
What the problem is is I don’t have any kind of airflow to really draw the heat out of my attic. I have a big vent on the north end of the roofline and I have two turbines and that’s it. "There arent", I repute- what do you call them, soffit vents or something that are usually you appreciate under the edge of your roofline? On the- yeah, I don’t have any of those so I’m wondering, would that facilitate my place some? And if so, how do I figure how many I need and how to space them?
TOM: So, here’s how you supplement added ventilation to a roof that’s configured like the one that you’ve described. The best type of insulation is, in fact, soffit venting combined with ridge venting. So soffit venting is at the overhang and ridge venting is at the peak. Now, because you don’t have soffits, there is a type of a ventilate called a “roof-edge vent” or a “soffit-edge vent” that essentially spreads the roofline only about 2 or 3 inches and provisions an intake duct for breeze to go far right under those shingles.
So if you were to add the roof-edge vent and then combine that with a endless bank vent, you would have the kind of flow that you really need. So what happens is as the wind collisions the ceiling, it propagandizes up, it depressurizes that ridge, it’ll pull air out from the bank ventilate while pushing aura in from those soffit vents that we just talked about. And that will do a lot to cooling that attic space.
Now, those turbines that you described, if you get the ridge and the drip-edge vents installed, I would remove the turbines because they’re just going to get in the way. They’ll interrupt that airflow that we’re trying to establish the pattern for.
CHARLES: Yeah, this crest duct you’re talking, I’m going to have to have them redo the ridge thing. It’s a shingle-type roof. Going to have to have them redo that?
TOM: Yeah, you’re going to have to do some carpentry been working. The ridge ventilate is pretty easy because you can trimmed right through the ceiling shingles, at the top peak, and attach the crest show right on top of that. And it’s a moderately watertight equip. The soffit drip-edge vent, that’s a little bit more complicated. You’d "re going to have to" take apart the first got a couple of rows of shingles to get that in.
CHARLES: Alright. Well, I recognize the data and I’m going to take a look at that material and then start looking around for a good contractor that can do that for ...
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for name The Money Pit.
You can reach us anytime 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Up next, could your mansion help a little more glint? Get in on the design direction that’s making a comeback: lacquer. We’re going to tell you how, after this.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a request, right now, with your home increase question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: That’s claim. You never have to worry about overpaying for a chore. You can simply use their Genuine Cost Guide to see what others have paid under same activities. Then get matched with top-rated pros, predicted critiques, get excerpts and diary appointments, all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And if you’ve got a home progress question, you can call us at 888 -MONEY-PIT or post it to MoneyPit.com, which is what Jim did. And he’s got a question about cleaning wood kitchen cabinets.
LESLIE: That’s liberty. Jim writes: “What commodity would you recommend for cleansing timber kitchen cabinets? We simply bought a new house and the cabinets are a light-white oak and they’re very dirty with grease, paw grease and cigarette-smoke residue.”
TOM: That’s like the trifecta there.
LESLIE: Yeah, seriously.
TOM: Grease, grime and cigarette smoke.
Well, I’ll tell you what, you have to start with a soap. But the problem is you can’t get too moisture to those used cabinets, because you could rot the wood.
So, I would start with Murphy’s Oil Soap. If it’s a good, dependable wood cleanser, you’re going to find it to be very effective at attracting a lot of that out of there. But just don’t use a lot of water with it. You can dip a washcloth into the Murphy’s Soap, lick the cabinets down, clean the washcloth, mop them again and so on, so that you’re not really sort of sloshing that sea on there. And that’s going to do a good job of taking a lot of that out there.
Now, another huge concoction, though, is WD-4 0, which has a ton of household applications. But you only want to use it as distinguished management. If you’ve got some specific areas in those closets that you just can’t get clean, try a little squirt of WD-4 0, especially if there’s adhesive on it from sticky shelf newspaper or something of that nature. It succeeds really well.
LESLIE: Yeah. All of this is a great start. And if you’re not joyful with the finished look, recollect at this part, you’ve sort of done the prep to start painting. So that’ll be the first step but cleaning really is a great way to see what you’ve got and decide where you want to go.
TOM: Well, love it or dislike it, the 80 s are back. And whether you’re wearing acid-washed denim or not, the most stylish place to keep your robes is a lacquered dresser or chest of drawers. And the gleam does not have to stop there. Leslie has got some theories, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Yeah, that wax look is popping up again. But timber that’s finished with lacquer does need proper prep. That includes sanding and sealing.
So, before you apply that glaze, clean completely with a way cloth. Then use exclusively aerosol-spray lacquer and protect that working area with drop cloths, newspaper. And delight make sure that you work in a well-ventilated space.
Now, you’re going to want to apply the lacquer slowly and evenly. And you’ve got to hold the can about 18 inches from the surface of the project. Any further away than that and that lacquer can orange-peel and sort of return a dimpled form on the surface. Closer than that is going to cause you to have too much lacquer building up and you’re going to get rolls or sags.
Now, as you work, overlap the glaze spraying decorations slightly. You require various thin coat to give you that high-gloss look, as opposed to a couple of ponderous coatings immediately. Make sure you follow those instructions and dry perfectly in between the coats.
Now, lastly, while wax can be used on most woods, you cannot use it on mahogany or rosewood, simply because those timbers are just too oily. And that’s going to see bleed through the finish and it’s not going to see last-place. It likewise can’t be used over sure-fire finishes, including oil-based discolorations and countless wood fillers. So you’ve got to make sure you’re putting it on the right surface.
But trust me, if you do, lacquer is gorgeous. I adore the super sheen. It realizes pigments seem really saturated and it’s phenomenal even in sudden situates, like a handrail or a banister in your stairwell. Superb. Use it wisely and adore it.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, older windows are more challenging than alluring when they get stuck slam or even affix open. If that chimes familiar and you’re thinking about updating those windows, we’re going to have tips for how you can work on getting them unstuck without making more detriment, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t "re going to have to" do it alone.
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