Bedrooms are often the last room in the house to get some decorating love. But with the right planning and bedroom decorating ideas, this space can become a personal sanctuary that calms, centers and energizes.
Davis Remignanti, Furniture.com’s lead design consultant, offers these easy design tips and bedroom decorating ideas to help transform even the most traditional “sleep space” into a dreamy haven:
Personalize it. Start by thinking of your boudoir as a sanctuary and begin designing your the room as a true retreat with a focus on your favorite pastime. Whether you love to paint, read, exercise, or listen to music, dedicate a space in your bedroom to doing what you love best.
Give your activity some uncrowded room by providing the desk space, storage, or comfy seating that it requires. Let the rest of your room design flow from your interest center. Sketch your concepts online at Furniture.com’s Room Planner.
Savor your zzzzzzzz’s. At the end of the day (literally), the bedroom is about sleeping, and your bed is where you likely spend approximately 1/3 of each day. Since a good night’s sleep will make all the difference tomorrow, consider upgrading your mattress to a pillow top style, or simply adding fresh new bedding. Then, stretch out and relax on your cozy bed.
Shun the distractions. Use your bedroom to escape from the world by hiding away your larger electronics – television, stereo components and computer – in an armoire that provides easy access to your media channels (and the outside world) when you want them, but is even easier on the eyes when you don’t.
Showcase your passion. When planning your decor, consider this bedroom decorating idea: resist the impulse to pack away your mementos. Instead, look for opportunities to showcase souvenirs and photos of what you love to do and the people you love to be with. A true retreat is not just a getaway, but also a celebration of your passions, so let these interests show in your bedroom.
Look up. Don’t forget the vertical space your bedroom offers. Carry your retreat design theme into the third dimension by updating your bedroom walls with a fresh new color or border. Since bedroom walls tend to be an underutilized resource, you can put the bedroom walls to work by examining where you can add much-needed shelving and storage options. Finish by adding a new piece of artwork to the bedroom wall to complete your theme.
Lighten your outlook. Any room makeover calls for a fresh look at lighting. Survey the bedroom as a whole, as well as specific task needs. The lighting requirements in your new activity area will differ greatly from your dressing and your sleeping areas. For extra convenience and added ambiance in your bedroom retreat, consider putting your primary bedroom lights on a dimmer switch.
Feel groovy. When accessorizing your bedroom retreat, feel the energy of Feng Shui and ensure good health by following the practice originated in China, honoring the indoor environment. Where possible, introduce water, wind chimes, color and crystals into your bedroom decorating design. Read more about history and practice of Feng Shui decorating ideas.
Browse the possibilities. Review the decorating ideas advice, product information, and interactive design tools at Furniture.com for more ideas on completing your bedroom decor project. Furniture.com merges the convenience, accessibility and ease of online shopping with the local customer service and fast, in-home delivery of national retail furniture chains.
The post 8 Bedroom Decorating Ideas to Create Your Happy Space appeared first on The Money Pit.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We’re here to help you take on your next residence increase projection. Inside or out, up or down, whether it’s kitchens, basements, lavatories, crawlspaces, living room, decoration, decks, terraces, whatever is on your to-do list, here’s what you need to do to slide it over to ours: pick up the phone and give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. We can be used to decide how to address that activity, whether you can do it yourself or you need a pro, how you can save some coin along the way. All great things for us to talk about this hour on The Money Pit.
And precisely ahead, it’s summer-storm season, which is a great time to ask the question: how is your roof holding up? Summer is a good time to consider a roof replacement and that’s a hassle best left up to a pro, gravity being what it is if you know what I entail. So we’re going to tell you some tip-off to help you get the best brand-new ceiling done for your residence, precisely ahead.
LESLIE: And did you struggle to stay cozy last summer? Well, if you did , now is a great time for the purposes of an A/ C updated to improve the ease and efficiency of your method. We’re going to have A/ C-upgrade tips to help you keep cool without breaking the bank.
TOM: And speaking of summer, once schools wrap up in the next couple of weeks, it is vacation season. We’re going to have some tips to help you keep your home secure because when you’re apart, the burglars can play.
But first, we want to hear from you. So return us a call, right now, 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. You’ll get the answer to your question. Plus, we are giving away an shocking award today to one listener outlined at random.
LESLIE: That’s right. We’ve get, brand-new from RYOBI, the SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower. Now, the RYOBI SMART TREK features gas-like power and a self-propelled technology that adapts to your walking speed. So it preserves up with you and doesn’t pull you along for the ride.
It’s available at Home Depot and HomeDepot.com for $449 but we’ve got one to give away today on The Money Pit.
TOM: So, give us a call right now. You must have a home betterment question and I convey a well thought-out, good residence improvement question , not like: “What coloring decorate should I use? Black or white? ” You know, let’s get serious about this. Give us a good question and the authorities concerned will toss your epithet into The Money Pit hard hat, 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Keith in Illinois is on the line. How can we help you today?
KEITH: I have a one-and-a-half-story house that has a- on the second floor is the- well, the rooms are basically half elevation. They’ve got the- in the middle, they’re full altitude but on the leading edge, they’re not. That’s where the wardrobes are at.
During specific times of the year, the truss tend to expand and it elevates the drywall in the edges and induces it to curl along the seams. And the developer just wanted to kept crown molding up there to prevent that. And what I had wanted to do, apparently, was prevent the action absolutely. It had been recommended before to add ventilation above the attic to get good airflow through there. The developer has said today by adding additional venting, which would be- I would consider the side ducts. He said that would actually spoil the vent system that’s already in place, which is in the eaves.
Do you have any additional recommendations for that?
TOM: Well, a couple of things. First of all, truss heaves happen when the truss reduce and they pull up in the middle of the chamber and that’s why you get the ceiling cracks, chastise?
TOM: And the ventilation you have right now, do you have incessant soffit expressing?
TOM: And do you have ridge expressing down the peak of the ceiling?
TOM: Well, you’ve already got the best ventilation system out there. So as long as it’s working properly, it’s not impeded, there’s no degree in putting additional breathing in there.
TOM: Now, is it possible for you to get above the truss, down like right above the ceiling?
KEITH: Well, I can’t get above that area. It’s boxed off and of course, they have it shielded but they do have the Styrofoam obstructs that frustrate the separation from blocking the truss duct. No, unless I cut through the top of the roof, I cannot get above the ceiling there.
TOM: Well, if the trusses were installed correctly- which, of course, isn’t going to help you- there are some L-shaped truss times that they would have installed that could have prevented this problem, that help as the roof expands and contracts. The intellect I asked you if you could get to them is because they may be able - you may be able to install them after the fact.
But if you can’t get to them, then I’m afraid there’s actually not an easy solution to this. If you were to add a second layer of drywall over what you have and you were very careful to make sure that the seams didn’t line up with the seams you have now, you may create a roof that’s strong enough- or a ceiling that’s strong enough- to not show cracks like it is. I would also glue the new bed to the aged layer. But again, I would overlap those strata, so to speak. Does that utter sense to you?
KEITH: Yes. So they don’t line up.
TOM: And that might make it strong enough. Because right now, there’s no backbone in the seams. It’s only the paper.
TOM: So that’s going to be the weakest part of the ceiling arrangement. If "youre supposed to" situated a second layer of drywall and cement across that, then I think you would have a really, genuinely sturdy ceiling and it would be unlikely that it would continue to crack.
KEITH: If I could sand on the- because I can get in the attic and get up to where the 2x4s come together in the truss. Would I be able to screw in a bracket there? That’s what you’re suggesting to mostly strengthen that seam?
TOM: Keith, if you can get on top of the drywall, so to speak, those truss are going to be been incorporated into interior walls in some regions, correct?
TOM: So whatever it is you would do is you would have to detach them from the interior walls and you are able to put an L-clip in place of the fingernails. The clip is attached to one side; there’s a slit on the other. And that allows the truss to move up and down and it will relieve some of that uplift and cracking.
Now, "when youre doing" that, you are able to discover- over the next year, if the truss starts to try to move again, you are able accompany some fingernail poppings that are available. And if that’s the suit, you miss to swipe them up and through to various kinds of relieve the pressure and then patch the drywall.
But I do ponder by the time you go through all that work, that it might be an easier mixture exactly to articulate a second layer of drywall on. Because your trouble is primarily with the seams and that’s going to be the easiest lane to fix that.
KEITH: Yeah, it does sound like it. Alright. Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Keith. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Eloise in North Carolina are addressed by some unwanted visitors: squirrels.
Eloise, one tried to get into my screened-in porch last week because of a pizza container. I is currently- and it scared the bejesus out of me.
TOM: Must have been an Italian squirrel.
LESLIE: Tell us. What’s going on?
ELOISE: The squirrels have decided that they like the coziness of get inside and down into the eaves of the porch rather than to burrow in a tree. And they have started eating away at my house. I’ve find places where they’ve been devouring, as well as the dens that are down in the eaves. How can I be disposed of them?
TOM: Well, there’s a couple of ways that you can are working with squirrels in the attic. It’s kind of like at-bats in your belfry: they drive you fucking. But there are some ways to try to manage these populations.
First of all, you can trap and release. If you invested in a duet, or even one, Havahart traps- Havahart is a trap that has a door on it that lets the squirrel in, doesn’t harm them. Usually, you’ll utilize an apple or something like that as bait. We generally recommend you wire it to the enclose of the bait, because they’ll figure it out and they’ll steal it and not get stuck in the catch. And then once they get stuck in the bunker, you make the whole trap, put it in the case of your automobile, drive out to a woodsy place, lift the door and off they will run blithely to once again rejoin Mother Nature.
Another thing that you can do is you could consider using a squirrel repellant. There are different types of repellants that are available. They generally are repellants that are designed to emulate a natural predator of squirrels, like fox or something of that mood. And you either scatter them or you- sometimes they’re in a purse and you hang them in the area and that can deter them.
But really, the first thing I would do is try to seal up any gaps that are allowing them to get into this attic seat to begin with.
ELOISE: Yeah, I have some homework to do. Thank you so much.
TOM: Ah, you sure do. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com.
Well , now that summer-storm season is upon us, how is your ceiling holding up? You know, summertime is certainly a great time to consider a roof replacement. And that really is a job that’s best left up to a pro. We’re going to tell you what you need to know to get the best racket done for your house, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Procreating good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
And you are sung to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show presented by HomeAdvisor.com. You’re never going to get concerned about overpaying for a responsibility again. Precisely use their True Cost Guide to see what others have paid for same programmes, then get matched with top-rated pros, read evaluates, get repeats and work appointments, all free of charge, at HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If you do, we’ve got a fantastic giveaway for one luck listener depicted at random this hour: the RYOBI 40 -Volt Lithium 20 -Inch SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower.
It’s got a lot of pieces but my favorite is the SMART TREK engineering. Because I have applied self-propelled mowers in the past and what ever happens is you start out at the speed you think you want but then you get tired. And then the mower is plucking you along.
LESLIE: It’s true.
TOM: With SMART TREK, it mostly parallels your pace. So, well, you don’t have to follow the mower; the mower, basically, follows you.
This is worth 449 horses. Travelling out to one caller drawn at random at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Give us a see. We will toss your call in that Money Pit hard hat.
LESLIE: Steven in Texas needs some assist with a cabinet project. What can we do for you?
STEVEN: Yes. So my partner has challenges with substances, like formaldehydes and glues and make-ups that they put in kitchen cabinet, the brand-new ones. And I was wondering if you had any idea what a person could use that you could get away from those types of compounds in cabinets.
TOM: So you’re looking forward to a cabinet manufacturer that is sort of formaldehyde-free and VOC-free? Is that correct?
STEVEN: Yeah, that’d be right. Yes.
TOM: Steve, that’s an interesting question because when it is necessary to kitchen cabinets, so many of the products that go into kitchen cabinets have the potential to have VOCs or volatile organic compounds in their own homes. Because you could start with the boards that are used to build the cabinets. If they’re a pressboard or a composite board of some sort, that have been able to formaldehyde in it, for example. Then you have the finishes and on and on and on.
I think what you want to do is you want to look for kitchen cabinetry that is built to meet the brand-new CARB 2 standard. That’s C--AR-B- 2 standard. That stands for the California Air Aid Board and that’s a standard that measures the level of those types of toxins in cabinetry. And so if you search for kitchen cabinets that encounter that standard, I think that’s a good place to start.
STEVEN: Well, generally, I do like maybe some metal cabinets, you are familiar. That would look nice in a kitchen. Would you have any ideas on something like that?
TOM: Well, you’d still have finishes on metal closets that would have some of the same issues.
TOM: I haven’t pictured metal boards in a kitchen in forever. The Gladiator tribes at Whirlpool are doing a really good job these days with metal cabinetry for laundry rooms and utility the regions and spaces like that. But I don’t know if that cabinet thread is going to extend to the point where you’d have enough flexibility to do it in a kitchen.
LESLIE: Well, I can share with you a merchant of a no-formaldehyde-added cabinetry. They’re actually beautiful, handmade, wooden cabinets. I’m not sure this is right their cost point but I am familiar with the fact that they are not adding any compounds to it. And they are very responsible in how they exploit the grove and the products that they use to make their cabinets. It’s a company out of Portland and their word is Neil Kelly. And it’s N-e-i-l-K-e-l-l-y.
And then, there was a metal-cabinet manufacturer that I was familiar with a while ago. It’s Fillip Metal and it’s F-i-l-l-i-p. It’s kind of this new resurgence of some interesting, repurposed fabrics. And you might want to check them out, as well.
STEVEN: OK. Well, thank you very much for the information. I appreciate it.
TOM: Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well , now that the summer-storm season is upon us, how is your roof holding up? Summer is a great time to consider a roof replacement. And that’s a position that’s best left up to a pro. We’re going to tell you what you need to know to get the best racket done for your mansion, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: First up, your ceiling is pretty much the armor that protects your refuge from these components. And nationally speaking, the average cost to install a new roof is about 7,600 horses. But most kinfolks are going to spend within a range of between 5,200 and 10,000 bucks. So, when it comes to maintaining your investment, the smartest money you could invest could be on this project, because it protects everything that’s important to you underneath.
LESLIE: Now, when you go out and contact roofers for costs, it’s important to note that the cost is going to fluctuate depending on factors like size and move- now, pitch is the angle of the roof- and the shingles that you’re choosing for development projects and whether the aged roof is going to be removed or the new roof is lay on top of that.
Now, we’re always going to recommend that you take the old roofing off because that new roof, when it goes on top of an elderly roof, first of all, it doesn’t glance as good when it goes on the older roof. But it tends to deteriorate the life of the new roof more quickly. So we are actually is often used to lean towards taking off that old-fashioned ceiling for better performance of the brand-new roof.
TOM: Other acts that you need to plan for might include work to repair or supplant the troughs or sometimes the rotted fascia that’s behind the ditches, as well as repair any damaged roof sheathing. Now, that’s generally the plywood that’s under the roof. And the questions there is it only comes evident immediately the aged shingles are removed. So to avoid astonishes, you want to make sure that your ceiling appraisal includes a cost for ousting any damaged sheathing that’s detected after the ceiling is removed. Because this way, you’ll know what to expect.
LESLIE: Now, lastly, you’re replacing your roof, so it’s also a great time to consider whether you’re going to upgrade, beyond those regular asphalt shingles that everybody’s kind of familiar with, to a more sturdy roofing fabric like maybe a metal roof.
Metal ceilings, for example, they’re beautiful. They are more expensive but they can last 50 to 100 years. I mean that is a long time, which really means that a metal ceiling might just be the last roof that the entire home will ever need in the lifetime of that home itself.
TOM: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your sphere, read verified reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Pat in Louisiana is on the line and needs some assist with a cleaning campaign. What can we do for you?
PAT: We had our carpet scavenged about a year ago. And in this bedroom, we have a heavy, clear, plastic mat that goes underneath personal computers chair.
PAT: Well, recently, I moved it over a bit and I noticed that it was wet underneath it.
PAT: There’s no spill in the roof; spray hasn’t come in the house. So merely thing that could be is a year ago, the water from the carpet-cleaning service get underneath this rug and it’s been there all this time.
TOM: Hmm. OK.
PAT: So, we cut off a large circle, like a 5-foot curve and got all the part out that was wet. So we’re going to have to change the carpet and the pad. But on the concrete- the bare concrete- there are some places of discoloration, so I don’t know if that’s mold or mildew. My question is: how do I empty that concrete before "were having" the new carpet positioned?
TOM: The concrete recognizes, if anything, are mineral-salt deposits; it’s not mold.
TOM: And so, it’s really cosmetic at this quality. If you can wash it down with a vinegar-and-water solution, it’ll melt the mineral-salt deposits away.
But the other thing that occurs to me is sometimes, concrete will describe sweat into a home. And so if anywhere near that area outside you’ve get sea that’s ponding or accumulating, it’s possible for the concrete to sort of draw that humidity up into the slab and across. And it may not have been able to evaporate where the pad was encompassing the concrete, which is why that area abode mute, whereas the other area bone-dry out. So there may be a different interpretation as to why that abode wet.
One of the things that you might want to do, since you have the carpet attracted the whole way back, is to paint the concrete. Paint that area with an epoxy paint. That will seal in that concrete and stop some of the evaporation if the humidity is being drawn through it and up into the floor surface.
PAT: So, should I- we depict the whole room? We don’t have all of the carpet up yet; we just cut out the middle part.
TOM: Well, if you’re going to take all the carpet up, then depict the whole floor. If you’re merely will be taking part of it up, then simply draw what you can get to. But I is undoubtedly paint the floor.
TOM: That’ll do it. Pat, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breath and online at MoneyPit.com.
Well , now is a great time for the purposes of an air-conditioning upgrade to improve the comfort and the effectiveness of the A/ C at your home. We’re going to share some A/ C-upgrade tips to help you keep cool without breaking the bank, coming up next.
TOM: Performing good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: New report out on the true cost of home ownership based on a sketch of 1,000 homeowners.
LESLIE: And it says expensive.
TOM: Yeah. This is interesting. The average homeowner spends, according to this survey, 2,600 bucks on maintenance and reparations; 6,600 horse on dwelling betters; and 2,600 horses in asset taxes; and 1,200 bucks on insurance.
LESLIE: OK. Mm-hmm.
TOM: And I guess that’s why we announce this testify The Fund Pit.
LESLIE: Wait. That’s average?
TOM: That’s average. Yes, average.
LESLIE: The taxes and the insurance.
TOM: I know. I thought that was ridiculous. A ridiculously low number.
LESLIE: Where do those people live?
TOM: Right. Yeah, exactly.
LESLIE: Because that’s not ...
TOM: Those are not the taxes we compensate here in the Northeast, I’ll tell you that.
LESLIE: Holy moly. Because I judge I want to move to there. Oh, my goodness. Holy moly.
And 59 percentage of homeowners are drawing renovations. They’re using some combining of debit card, personal loans, home equity loans to fund those projects. And the biggest regret among homeowners is that the amount of upkeep their belonging necessary- now 1 in 4 homeowners have less than 500 horses saved in the event of a home reparation emergency.
And you know what, Tom? You rightfully never know what’s going to happen. You don’t know when it’s going to happen. And in a one-week period, my dishwasher breach- I’ve deepened that gasket on that dishwasher three times; it is still shooting out water from the lower-left corner- my refrigerator just died- I necessitate it’s 17 year olds, so who can complain?- and my hairdryer died the same day as the fridge.
LESLIE: So, I know the hairdryer is small but ...
TOM: That must have been the worst part of it: the hairdryer dying.
LESLIE: It was just - you don’t know what’s going to happen, so you’ve got to be prepared.
TOM: Absolutely. Well, we can help you find a way to save on dwelling upkeep penalties. That’s emphatically one of the things that we do. But help yourself first: render us a bawl, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you live in an older home that wasn’t improved primarily with central A/ C or maybe you’ve got a arrangement that’s past its life expectancy , now might be a really good time to invest in a brand-new A/ C.
TOM: With improvements in economy, there’s no reason a new A/ C arrangement can’t leave you cool and your budget pleasant. Here to talk us through the options is This Old House plumbing-and-heating contractor Richard Trethewey.
RICHARD: Hello, people. How are you?
TOM: We are well. Looking to keep cool this summer. And first and foremost, central A/ C is much more energy-efficient than area aura conditioners, right?
RICHARD: Well, it generally is if it’s done right. You know, not only are they more efficient than a chamber air conditioner but central air-conditioning systems are much more efficient than they were just 10 short years ago.
TOM: So let’s start by talking about the basic the different types of air-conditioning systems, because there’s some new structures that are out there and combinations of systems that can be confusing.
RICHARD: Well, the standard system that was always available to us was to have a cooling scroll positioned on the priorities in a gas or an oil furnace. You’ve all seen them. Down in your vault or in that garage is the furnace and that has a burner and a blower and that pushings air out through the ductwork.
Now, at the very top of it, there’d be a coil that had refrigerant move through it. As the breeze croaked across it, it was cooled. It connected via refrigerant routes[ that’s to outside]( ph ). And that was the standard for countless, many years.
And so what they’ve done the last 10 years is they have insisted on higher efficiencies. It used to be that you could get away with a 10 SEER and now you need 13 SEER or now it was necessary to 15 SEER in different places. And that is a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio.
TOM: So that’s a practice to kind of compare legions to components and efficiency to efficiency.
RICHARD: Right. Sort of like the power ratings on appliances or the mileage for cars.
TOM: Alright. So that’s the core organisation. Now, there’s another system out now called a “mini split-ductless.” How does that ...?
RICHARD: Right. And this really comes to us from Asia. And really, the rest of the planet does it this channel. The first system I described was announced “unitary.” It’s where you have one device and that communicates heated or cooled breeze through the building.
These divides are very easily zoned organisations where you could have- in each chamber or groupings of areas, you could have the thing called a “high-wall cassette.” You’d see it on the wall and it has a way to have heating and cooling come out of these pipes. You’ve seen them all ...
LESLIE: It’s about 3 hoofs wide by 18 inches tall.
RICHARD: That’s right.
LESLIE: They’re white. They mount high on the wall. There’s little vents on it.
RICHARD: That’s right. Right.
LESLIE: I mean they’re enticing and they various kinds of go away.
RICHARD: And they’re thermostatic and they’re quiet.
And so now you’ve came zonability( ph) where normally, with that unitary organization, "youve had" one thermostat, generally. It brings with it the whole house for cooling and then you turn it back up again. This gives you the chance, as the sunbathe moves around the building- now there’s more load on the south side. That legion on the south side can come on and keep up with it, because you have multiple sections inside the building.
LESLIE: Now, there’s one division on the interior, which is that split system.
RICHARD: That’s right.
LESLIE: And then on the outside, you’ve got your condensing unit.
RICHARD: Condenser. Right. Well, it used to be that you’d have to have one indoor contingent paired up to one outdoor unit.
LESLIE: To one outdoor.
RICHARD: And in the old days, the outside components used to be so large-hearted. And they still are.
RICHARD: Now, with these divides, the human rights unit are much smaller and they can load. They’re almost a small rectangle against the building. They can even hang on the wall brackets.
LESLIE: And you are able to have more than one interior component to one outside condensing unit.
RICHARD: That’s right. But that’s the evolution. It’s merely changing now. It used to be that it was always one to one.
LESLIE: One to one.
RICHARD: Now you can have one magic box, so to speak, outside and you can connect to three, four, five or six cells inside.
Now, you’d think that was enough but no, the next event that has only been recently shown up is a variation of this where you can have a single casket outside. That container has a thing inside it called an “inverter.” And the inverter will not only allow you to have cool to four, five, six different cells within the building but it actually is so efficient it can reverse itself. And in the cold, cold weather, down to about 5 magnitudes outside, it can find fairly heat in the outside breeze to still heat the building.
That’s certainly what people simply can’t conclude. “How do you get heat out of cold air in the winter? ”
TOM: That’s interesting. So that’s kind of like a heat-pump tech now.
RICHARD: That’s right. It’s a hot spout that works. Heat pumps never did much once you got above the Mason-Dixon Line. But these forces has truly got some excitement. They actually are so efficient because they’re not just cycling on and off; they’re actually on all the time a little bit, just grabbing a little bit of heat all the time and putting it back in the building.
TOM: That’s really cool.
RICHARD: The other thing that’s great is now you’ve got some other hand-pickeds. It used to be that you could only have that high-wall cassette inside the building. Now some of these legions actually accept ductwork off the units. So you could still have, hidden away inside the building- comfy. Another one is a picture frame so that a situation enclose acts as the cooling and heating unit in the space.
LESLIE: Oh, I’ve seen that one.
RICHARD: It’s a- yeah, they’re really pretty cool. A much of option now and it’s an rousing time to be in this game.
TOM: So, if you’re thinking about upgrading your existing system, maybe your outdoor compressor miscarries and you need to make a decision, what kinds of things are important to know before you actually do that work? Can you always depart sort of part for place? Is it going to fit? Can you placed a better, more efficient air conditioner, perhaps where you had one that was less efficient, and still have it work?
RICHARD: Well, Tom and Leslie, "its certainly true it is" a minefield now because of regulation. You might have your inside part and your outside unit. And the outside condenser, which is exposed to the elements, fails. Now you only want to get a new outdoor abbreviating division. Well, the rules have changed about how efficient you have to set that unit is. And the standard rules have also modified about what type of refrigerant that you can use inside those.
So , now, you might say, “I time want to replace the outdoor condensing unit.” Now, by authorization, you’re going to have to not only change the outdoor division, you’re going to have to change the indoor section to competition it.
LESLIE: So they speak to each other.
RICHARD: And you’re going to have to change the refrigerant that goes through it. And that involves evacuating all the refrigerant out of the lines and it’s not a small deal anymore.
TOM: There’s nothing much that you can save in this process. You’re pretty much going to be replacing everything.
RICHARD: That’s right.
LESLIE: Now, when you close your air conditioning up for the season- if that’s something that you do; you do a turn-on and a turn-off- are they draining the lines at that point? Or it ever has refrigerant in it?
RICHARD: It should ever have- the refrigerant you lay in, if you don’t have a leak, it should be in there 25 years from now.
RICHARD: The only thing I’ll tell you about winterizing is if you’re in a target where you’ve got some really dirty tree over that condenser, you should cover it so that all those pine needles or buds don’t get down inside. Because what’s inside that condenser you don’t insure are relatively tender fins- aluminum fins- on a refrigerant scroll. And if that is filled with all sorts of foreign objectives, it’ll work really hard and it’ll ultimately miscarry because of it.
TOM: Yeah. Richard, in terms of the cover, you’re not talking about sealing the human rights unit as much as keeping tree debris out, are you?
RICHARD: Well, you cannot confine the breath inside of a condenser for it to operate. And so during the season, when it’s got to run, you’ve got to make sure the breeze can pass through and up and out of the condenser.
RICHARD: But in the winter, in a sit where you’ve get dirty trees, you might want to shut it up tight to keep those yearn needles and leaves out. And be sure to pull it off before you start it in the season.
TOM: Make-up sense.
Now, I want to finish up with a few questions about sizing. Person think that bigger is always better when it is necessary to A/ C organisations. But it’s really not about coming the biggest system; it’s about getting one that’s designed to work properly with your mansion, right?
RICHARD: Yeah. That’s the biggest mistake we all move in both the chill and the heating world. We make bigger is better.
Now, in the example of chill, if I put in two times too big of a cool legion, thermostat comes on, it is currently quickly tries to originate the air cold and then it shuts off. It means that you haven’t range that breeze conditioner long enough to actually take any humidity out of the building. So now you end up with a cold, clammy space.
LESLIE: And it feels colder.
RICHARD: Absolutely. If we’ve done our profession as heating-and-cooling professionals, that air-conditioning system, on the worst day of the year, would never shut off; it would just be on all the time. The knowledge is that’s never the subject; it’s on, it’s off, it’s on and off because they are oversized. The same thought is in heating in reverse. If we have too big of a furnace or too large of a boiler, it’s going to cycle.
Think about the pattern. If I had an automobile where I turned it on and off every two minutes, the engine would be harder pulped to run clean. The same situation with an air conditioner. If you cycle that compressor a million times an hour because it’s too big, it’s going to be short-lived.
TOM: And because of all the power it takes to get it on, initially, you’re probably employing more electricity.
RICHARD: Absolutely. That’s right. It’s the take-offs and the disembarks that use all the fuel.
TOM: That’s the important part.
RICHARD: That’s right.
TOM: Richard Trethewey, the plumbing-and-heating contractor on TV’s This Old House, thank you so much. I’m sure you’re making a lot of us more cool and comfortable this summer.
RICHARD: Stay cool, you guys.
TOM: And This Old House be increased to you on PBS by American Standard.
Just onward, vacation season is happening in merely got a couple of weeks. We’re going to tell you what steps you need to take to make sure your home stays safe and secure, after this.
Making good dwellings better, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. 888 -MONEY-PIT is was put forward by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, regional residence better pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
And while you’re online, don’t forget The Money Pit exists there. You can affix your questions at MoneyPit.com but you’re always welcome to give us a call right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT. And if you do get your question on the breeze in the hour, we’ve got an amazing giveaway that’s going to go to one listener drawn at random. It is a perfect summer prize, you guys. It’s the RYOBI 40 -Volt Lithium 20 -Inch SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower.
I have to tell you, mowing the lawn has to be one of my most favorite hassles. And this definitely constitutes it better because the SMART TREK engineering- the mower is going to match your pace. So if "youre feeling" like going through the project quickly and walking at a more immediate pace, the mower is going to match that. If you’re a little tired from the duty week and you’re get a little bit slower on that Saturday morning, the mower is going to match your gait instead of dragging you around the yard in the apprehension of the mower wanting to finish.
TOM: And don’t worry about whether or not a cordless mower can do the job. This can do that and more. It’s came gas-like power and cordless convenience. It starts with the push of a button. So, basically, you get all the power and guide time that you need to get the job done without the hassles of gas, oil, fumes, maintenance and sound. Your neighbors will affection it.
It’s worth 449 bucks at Home Depot and HomeDepot.com but we’ve got one to give away to a listener on today’s show. So pick up the phone and give us a summon with your home improvement question, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, vacation season is now just a pair weeks away. And a good time to think about what steps you want to take to make sure your home remains safe and secure. So, here’s a few tips-off that lets you do just that.
LESLIE: That’s right. First of all, you want to light it up. Now, a well-lit home is much less likely to be broken into, so you’ve got to make sure that your home’s exterior is fully illuminated. And you want some motion-detector spotlights were integrated into it so that it comes on in the event that somebody is, you are familiar, hiding around the property.
TOM: Now, the next situation you want to do is establish sure you’re obstruct your scenery in shape. Because if you’ve went dense shrubs, they can create a hideout. So keep the fences low, keep the plants in your entrances and windows nifty and transparent.
LESLIE: Likewise, you want to upgrade your door fastens. Now, a opening with simply a handle lock is an easy mark for a break-in. Instead, you want to add a good-quality deadbolt at each entering phase. Now, very good deadbolts require a key on the outside and then incorporate a digit latch on the inside. You’ve too got to strengthen every installing by substituting long, heavy-duty shafts for those ones that are given to you by the manufacturer. Because those are small, very frankly, and they don’t do the job that the longer, heavy-duty fastened will. This behavior, you’re going to be sure that every introduction level is secured to the wood-frame opening opening into the wall.
TOM: And ultimately, think about getting a security system. Even the most powerful, most well-lit homes can’t stop a robber that’s determined to go into. So, it’s a good time to think about all the technology that a security system can offer. There’s such a broader range of DIY and pro organization out there.
Now, we’ve- ADT but there’s a lot of fine organisations out there and it’s nice to know that the chamber of representatives is being watched , is not merely for break-ins but too for fire and exhaust fumes and inundates and so on. So, mull about those few betters before you taken away from for vacation and make sure your live is in the same mold as it was when you left.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fastest and most easy direction to find the best home work pros in your neighborhood. You can speak reviews and book appointments all online.
TOM: And simply ahead, can your propane grill be transformed into a gas grill? We’ll have the answer when The Money Pit continues.
Making good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the phone and demonstrate us a summon, right now, with your home improvement activity, your do-it-yourself dilemma. The list is 1-888-MONEY-PIT and we are presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a occupation. Use the HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others pay off a similar assignment. It’s all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Alright. While you’re online, don’t forget to principal on over to MoneyPit.com and you can post your question in the Community section. I’ve got one here from Laura.
Now, Laura writes: “We bought a propane grill a year before selling our residence and we only used it once. When we moved into our new home, we witnessed a natural-gas line was available for a grill. Is there a direction of get this propane grill to work with natural gas? I means that we are paid virtually $400 for this grill and I’d hate to hurl it out and then find out there was a solution.”
TOM: Well, you can’t use natural gas in a propane grill because the burners are different, as is the flow of gas. And considering its age and the cost and hassle of proselytizing it, I’d hate is to say this but I think you’re best to chalk this one up to experience and pick up a brand-new gas grill. Because it will be costly and a inconvenience to find precisely the right responsibilities to do this transition. So, that’s the best way to proceed.
LESLIE: Yeah. But Laura, you know what? Don’t toss out the other grill. I am sure with Facebook Marketplace or any of those online resources, you can find somebody who’s willing to pay a good toll for that grill, especially if it’s in such immense malady like you say.
Alright. Next up, I’ve got a post here from Veronica. Now, Veronica writes: “What can I do to restore spider vein-looking rift in various regions of the ceramic bathtub exhaust? And what’s causing them? ”
TOM: Well, it’s mostly the tub finish burst down. The kind of glazing that’s in that finish is breaking down. And you do have a few options.
Of course, you could replace the entire tub and that’s a major renovation because, believe me, the tub is the first thing that goes in a shower when it’s being built and it’s the last happening that comes out because it’s the biggest part of that room. You could reglaze the bathtub, which might be either a DIY project or one that’s done professionally. But it’s definitely not a long-term solution because those glazes will neglect. I dream the DIY forms will disappoint first, as well.
Now, the other option is to use a bathtub insert. Now, a tub position is mostly custom-fit and positions into the tub. It kind of moves it like a liner. It relines the part surface. Now, that can actually abbreviate the size of the tub a little. And I’ve found that it’s just a little bit less expensive than entirely removing and ousting the tub. Gee, I wonder why, liberty?
TOM: And then, of course, there’s ever option number four, which is learn to live with it. Nobody is going to see those hairline sounds except for you. So, that would probably be the least expensive option, although repeatedly a little of annoying.
LESLIE: Ignore it. Precisely ignore it.
LESLIE: You know, Veronica, I always was of the view that the bathroom is the one place - you’re in there a good deal. You probably embellish it one time and then fast forward a few years, you’re like, “Wow. It’s still precisely the same as it was when I first decorated it 15 years ago.” And I’m sort of in that phase. I’ve been in my house a long time and I get to a stage where I’m doing so much everywhere else but I’m ignoring the bathrooms.
What I only done so in the powder room that was sort of an instantaneous refurbish that really was not expensive- I experienced some repositionable wallpaper, almost like a sheet of sticky-backed vinyl that had a great blueprint on it. And I positioned that up in the powder room on the first floor. Make a little of composure putting it on but it transformed that opening tremendously. And it actually vanished from just plain to sort of glamorous. Now, I’m not saying do this in a bath where there’s showers and whatnot. But paint’s a great way to update that seem, changing out your shower curtain, changing out your tub matting. Doing this seasonally , not so much better the cover but the little accessory in there, is really going to freshen that seem. And maybe it’ll take your recollection off those crackings in the tub.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on aura and online at MoneyPit.com. Hey, thank you so much for spending this part of your weekend with us. If you’ve went questions about what’s going on in your home or a project you’re hope, remember, you can reach us, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No parcel of this record or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc .)
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And what are you working on this beautiful spring weekend? If it’s your house, you’re in exactly the right place because we’re here to help. We’ve got the garden gloves on, we dragged out the painting equipment. We’re ready to get to work to lend you a hand tackling those projects and more around your house. But help yourself first: call us now with that home improvement question at 888-MONEY-PIT or post it to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
Well, it might be spring now but summer is just ahead. I mean Memorial Day is coming up and that makes now a good time to make sure your deck is ready to host a barbecue with, you know, dozens of your closest, personal friends. We’re going to highlight a deck-safety check to make sure that your deck is safe and good to go.
LESLIE: And also ahead, if you don’t have a deck, maybe building a patio is a project that you’d like to take on just in time for Memorial Day. Well, it’s actually a lot easier than you think and we’ll tell you how, in just a bit.
TOM: Plus, as summer approaches, it’s also a great time to make sure your home’s cooling plan is set to deliver comfort and energy efficiency. So to help, we’ve put together a list of low-cost to no-cost tips that will do just that.
LESLIE: Plus, this hour, we’ve got a very fun tool to give away. It’s the iconic, American-made prize package which includes Arrow T50AC Electric Staple Gun and Nailer, Arrow’s GT20DT Dual-Temp Glue Gun, which is personally my favorite glue gun, staples and glue sticks. It’s a great package and you can make a ton of stuff with it.
TOM: Going out to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. Pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Judy in Florida is on the line with a countertop situation. What happened? You scraped it? You cut it? What’d you do?
JUDY: The previous owners had painted it and I took a razor blade and went up under it and I was able to get all of that paint off. But evidently, they sanded the tops and I would like to bring some life back into the top.
LESLIE: So, wait, is it wood? Is it butcher block? Is it laminate?
JUDY: It’s laminate, yes. And it’s in good shape. It’s just that it’s dull. It’s got the marble look.
LESLIE: You’ve got a couple of options. You could paint it again. There are several different companies that make a laminate painting kit. Rust-Oleum has a couple of different products: Modern Masters and – oh, Tom, there was that one we saw in Vegas. It’s named after the guy’s daughter; it’s got two marbling kits in it.
JUDY: Yeah, I have seen that and I prefer not to do that. I read an article somewhere – and I cannot find the article – that said that you could use car wax, paste wax and buff it?
JUDY: Would that look – the countertop looks fine; it just needs a gloss. I don’t want a real high gloss; I just want it to look better.
TOM: Well, there’s no reason you couldn’t use the car wax. It’s not all – except that I wouldn’t want my food to be in contact with it. But other than that, I think it – probably OK.
JUDY: That’s a good idea, surely. Well, I thank you for your time, your suggestions.
TOM: You’re very welcome.
JUDY: I appreciate it.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Olen in North Carolina on the line who needs some help with a radiant floor-system project. Tell us what you’re working on. Are you doing this yourself?
OLEN: Yeah, I am a do-it-yourselfer kind of guy and I’m going to just do the rough end of the tubing myself. I’m going to leave the pumps and whatnot to the professionals. But it’s sort of smart to let the – to have somebody to do the hard stuff for you. But I figure I can do the tubing myself.
And my question regards the choice between PEX and Onix tubing and about cost-effectiveness.
OLEN: And which one is more appropriate for my region? I’m in North Carolina.
LESLIE: Well, what type of subfloor are you working with?
OLEN: I’m going to be working on my existing, open floor joists and 16-inch centers, so I’ve got plenty of space under there to staple up either the aluminum plates or to put up the rubberized Onix material.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And what’s going to be your flooring?
OLEN: Above it, I will have a hardwood floor and in some areas, I’m going to be putting down the cement board and tile on top.
LESLIE: OK. Now, when you’re dealing with radiant flooring with hardwood, you have to make sure that the certain type of hardwood you buy is appropriate for radiant. And it depends on the way the graining is cut. And I forget exactly what it’s called but you have to make sure you buy the correct type of grain, the way the piece of flooring for the wood itself is cut. Otherwise, you’re going to get a lot of shifting and movement just due to the nature of the heating.
OLEN: Right. I hear that the PEX tends to cause a little bit more expansion and contraction in the tubing itself. And my floor is actually existing pine floor; it’s only a certain area where I’ll be putting in the cement board and the tile.
TOM: Well, look, I think that either product, as long as it’s installed consistent with the manufacturer’s instructions, is going to be fine. PEX is really the more common, known product for this and we’ve seen it in many, many houses. PEX stands for cross-linked polyethylene. Onix is cross-linked EPDM, so it’s another formulation for a radiant-tubing product.
Personally, I would use PEX only because it seems to have the history. I know that Onix was used a lot on outdoor applications for snow melting and that sort of thing. But because it’s inside the house and because it’s got such a great reputation, I would use PEX. And I have seen PEX become very, very indestructible when it comes to its ability to work with all sorts of conditions inside the house.
In fact, I saw a demonstration once. One thing that’s cool about PEX is the memory that it has. You can heat this stuff and stretch it to twice its length and let it go and it goes back to its original shape. So it retains its original shape.
So it’s a pretty impressive product and I think it’s got the history. And that’s what I think I would trust if I was going to go radiant in my house.
OLEN: OK. Well, thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit. What’s your how-to or décor question? Give us a call now at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They make it fast and easy to find top-rated home pros you can trust for any home project.
TOM: Just ahead, are you looking for a new space to enjoy outdoor living this summer? Building a patio or expanding the one you have is a project you may be able to do yourself.
LESLIE: We’ll share some tips and a key trick of the trade to help you design the perfect space, next.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to hear about your home improvement or repair project. Call it in, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
And if you do just that, we’ve got a handy set of tools going out to one listener who calls in their home improvement project or posts it to MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: That’s right. We’ve got some great tools to help you get a variety of projects done. From Arrow, we’ve got up for grabs the T50 Electric Staple Gun and Nailer, plus the Arrow Dual-Temp Glue Gun, along with a ton of staples and glue sticks. So you’ll be able to get a lot done. And the package is worth 95 bucks.
TOM: Yep. And these are two tools that will be super useful for many things around the house, from crafts to repairs, including a fun project that Arrow is featuring, right now, at ArrowFastener.com. It’s a vertical succulent garden. The entire project – including the materials list, photos and all the details – are online at ArrowFastener.com. Just click on the projects and you’ll find all the details right there.
LESLIE: You know what’s so great is that the Arrow Fastener Company has been making these staple guns and the staples right here in America – in the Saddle Brook, New Jersey plant – for almost 90 years.
And Tom, you and I went there. And I mean it’s really an impressive operation.
TOM: We did. And these tools are made so well. That electric stapler is really made for a pro but it’s great for consumers. And the Dual-Temp Glue Gun, like you said, it’s your favorite because it heats up fast and it doesn’t drip. I have dripped so much glue with the wrong glue guns over the years and that’s why we love this Arrow product.
So they’re both going out to one lucky listener drawn at random. If you’re feeling lucky today, hey, you’ll get your home improvement question answered and you could win this great prize pack from Arrow. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Eloise in North Carolina is dealing with some unwanted visitors: squirrels.
Eloise, one tried to get into my screened-in porch last week because of a pizza box. I can only – and it scared the bejesus out of me.
TOM: Must have been an Italian squirrel.
LESLIE: Tell us. What’s going on?
ELOISE: The squirrels have decided that they like the coziness of getting inside and down into the eaves of the porch rather than to nest in a tree. And they have started eating away at my house. I’ve noticed places where they’ve been gnawing, as well as the nests that are down in the eaves. How can I get rid of them?
TOM: Well, there’s a couple of ways that you can deal with squirrels in the attic. It’s kind of like bats in your belfry: they drive you crazy. But there are some ways to try to manage these populations.
First of all, you can trap and release. If you invested in a couple, or even one, Havahart traps – Havahart is a trap that has a door on it that lets the squirrel in, doesn’t harm them. Usually, you’ll use an apple or something like that as bait. We usually recommend you wire it to the frame of the trap, because they’ll figure it out and they’ll steal it and not get stuck in the trap. And then once they get stuck in the trap, you take the whole trap, stick it in the trunk of your car, drive out to a woodsy area, lift the door and off they will run happily to once again rejoin Mother Nature.
Another thing that you can do is you could consider using a squirrel repellant. There are different types of repellants that are available. They usually are repellants that are designed to emulate a natural predator of squirrels, like fox or something of that nature. And you either spray them or you – sometimes they’re in a bag and you hang them in the area and that can deter them.
But really, the first thing I would do is try to seal up any gaps that are allowing them to get into this attic space to begin with.
ELOISE: Yeah, I have some homework to do. Thank you so much.
TOM: Ah, you sure do. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Eric in Colorado on the line who needs some help with a crabgrass situation. Tell us what’s going on.
ERIC: My wife and I purchased a home last year and it’s our – it’s my first time actually trying to maintain a lawn. So far, I’m pretty happy with what we have except I noticed that there’s a patch of grass that’s on one part of the lawn. It looks like it’s a different breed or a different kind of grass or possibly a crabgrass or whatever. I’m not sure if it’s a weed or what it is but I just want to get rid of it.
LESLIE: There are products out there and if you search online, you’ll find some. One is actually a product called Crabgrass Killer and it’s on a website called MegaGro.com. And it’s truly made from all-natural ingredients. It’s got, I think, cinnamon bark and wheat flour and corn flour and cumin and baking soda. So it is made from organic, if you will, materials that make it a more safe herbicide for the lawn.
But you have to know what kind of grass that you’ve got, because it won’t harm certain lawns. But if you happen to have bluegrass or fescue, you don’t want to use it. And being that you’re a new homeowner, new to identifying what kind of grass you have, this might not be the best approach. And that’s also something you’ve got to be sort of careful about.
That one’s called Crabgrass Killer. You can search it online, read about it and see if that’s something you want to do.
ERIC: So how am I supposed to know if it is crabgrass or if it’s some other – somebody just threw some different grass seeds down there for whatever reason?
TOM: Well, you get crabgrass, you get chickweed. These seeds are in the air, OK? And they blow around and they land and they start to sprout. And so that’s why we use weed killers and preemergent herbicides and things like that, because it controls those and helps make sure that the grass can really – is really the thing that comes through.
And so, as a new homeowner, you’re going to have to buy into the fact that your lawn is going to need some care. You wouldn’t go year after year without expecting to have to paint your house. You can’t go season after season without expecting to have to take care of your lawn.
ERIC: OK. Well, great. Thanks a lot.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, it’s hard to enjoy an outdoor-living space if you don’t have a deck or a patio or you need to expand the one that you’ve got. Well, before the dollar signs start flashing in front of your eyes, know that when it comes to building a patio, it’s really not incredibly difficult for a seasoned DIYer.
TOM: Yeah. A patio, in its simplest form, is really just a concrete slab. But of course, you’ve got to plan before you pour. And an easy way to see the shape of your potential patio is to simply use a rope to lay out the perimeter. Then step back and review the space to get a good feel for it. And you can even consider maybe adding some furniture inside that sort of roped outline, to make sure the patio sort of fits all the things that you want to do with it.
Now, another important design factor to consider, if you’re putting it up right next to your house, is the distance from the top of the finished patio surface to the doorway of the house. You want to have a distance where the step-down is no more than 8 inches or it could be dangerous. And since patios tend to settle, you know, if you made it 5 or 6 inches, it’s probably going to settle another inch or so. That’s probably the goal in terms of how high you want that to be.
And don’t forget to make sure the patio slopes away from the house. It’s got to drop about an 1/8-inch per foot. And you don’t want to fudge those numbers because if you do, you’re going to have some significant drainage problems that will not make you happy.
LESLIE: Now, don’t forget about the design. I know we’re talking about all the technical stuff to make sure it stays sturdy and it stays dry. But when it comes to design, one way to give your plain patio some style is to lay out redwood 2x4s to make boxes and then pour the concrete into them.
And when it comes time to make repairs on your patio – or really, any other concrete surface – try a quick-concrete mix. Now, you can mix and use it right out of the pouch and match the contour and shape of any concrete surface. You can even use it on vertical or those horizontal surfaces. It’s really a great product, so don’t be afraid to work with concrete.
TOM: If that’s a project on your to-do list or any others, give us a call, right now, or post it to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: And now we’ve got Kimberly in College Station, Texas with a leaky roof. Tell us what’s going on.
KIMBERLY: We bought this house many years – several years ago. And we had an inspection of the house and we didn’t know that we had a problem with a roof leak. The inspector didn’t catch it because the people who owned the house first put some plastic over the leaking areas. So when it rained, it held water and we didn’t know that until four or five months afterwards, after we bought the house. And then our insurance wouldn’t cover anything.
And we’re just – we’ve got more leaks now because the house is getting older. And so, instead of replacing the entire roof, we’re looking for some suggestions on some kind of a seal. And we don’t even know – there’s all these things out there. We don’t know what would be the best, if there’s anything available, or what we should do.
TOM: OK. So, you say that they covered this with plastic and your home inspector never noticed that it was covered with plastic? I mean duh.
KIMBERLY: No. And it was – it’s on the – up in the inside of the house. And also, they painted the ceiling. They had a 5-gallon can of white ceiling paint in our garage, which – so they kept it covered all the time, which – nobody caught that. Now, I didn’t think anything about it.
TOM: Was this roof accessible? The area that was covered with plastic?
KIMBERLY: Yes. And he walked around up there and it – and I guess it hadn’t rained in a while. So, those little sealed-up areas weren’t full of water at this – at the time.
TOM: Let me ask you this: is this a sloped roof or a flat roof?
TOM: And has it ever been covered with tar or anything like that?
TOM: So the metal is still fresh in the sense that it has never been tarred over?
KIMBERLY: No, it’s not tarred.
TOM: Well, have you had a roofer look at it?
KIMBERLY: We have; we’ve had several. And one told us that it would cost us $6,000 or $7,000 to put a seal on it. And now there’s some of those things out there at the home improvement stores. We just don’t know if …
TOM: OK, look, let me make this real easy for you. You don’t seal a metal roof; you repair a metal roof. Metal roofs can last 100 years. So, if any roofer is trying to sell you something in a can that he’s going to seal the roof with, that is a disaster waiting to happen, for a lot of reasons.
First of all, it’s not the right way to fix it. Secondly, it actually does more harm than good and here’s why: because when you seal a roof with tar – a metal roof with tar – water still gets in; it gets under the tar and then it quickly rusts the roof away. If you have a roof that is cracked or has rusted out in a piece of area, then you repair those; you don’t tar over them like you might, say, an asphalt roof.
So, that’s – what you need to do is to find a roofer who is a craftsman. And I realize that that’s easier said than done. But if you find a roofer that’s a craftsman that really has experience with metal roofs and doesn’t just know how to tear one off – that doesn’t count as experience with a metal roof which, unfortunately, many will just say, “Oh, we’ll tear it off and do something else.”
No. If you find somebody that really knows metal roofs, then that should be completely repairable. And I would not encourage you to put any kind of sealant on it but to figure out where it’s leaking and why it’s leaking and fix it.
You’ve got to dig into it further, Kim. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, with Memorial Day coming up, now is a great time to make sure your deck is ready to host a barbecue with dozens of your closest friends. Tom Silva from This Old House is stopping by with a DIY deck-safety checklist, to help you make sure that yours is good to go.
TOM: And today’s edition of This Old House on The Money Pit is brought to you by ADT. Introducing ADT Go, the new family mobile safety app and service. Go to ADT.com to learn more today.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Well, whether you’re planning a décor project, remodeling your kitchen, remodeling your bath, fixing a leak, fixing a squeak, we’re here for you every step of the way. You can call in your question now to 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Well, the weather is getting nicer and soon you’ll be spending more and more time on your deck. But before you get ready for your next season of outdoor living, it’s important to make sure that the deck is in good shape.
TOM: Well, that’s right. Now, we’ve all heard the horror stories of deck collapses and a good checkup will tell you if you’ve got anything to worry about. Here to tell us how to do just that is our favorite contractor, Tom Silva, the general contractor for TV’s This Old House.
TOM SILVA: Thank you. It’s nice to be here.
TOM: Nice to have you here, as well.
Let’s talk about deck safety. Every summer, it seems that we hear the same story: it’s a party, somebody has invited over 40 or 50 of their closest, personal friends and a tragedy ensues. How do we make sure that doesn’t happen to us?
TOM SILVA: It’s so true: 40 or 50 of your closest friends; see how much weight is put onto that deck.
TOM SILVA: And if it’s not built structurally strong, it can collapse no matter what. But what you want to look for are signs of rot. And I always look at – first of all, you look at the decking itself. That’s usually a sign, because a lot of people aren’t going to get under that deck to find out about the structure.
TOM SILVA: They’re going to say, “Hey, these floorboards look a little worn. They look a little rotted.”
TOM SILVA: That’s a sign right there. And then you’ve got to start looking at how it’s connected to the house. There’s a ledger board that the joists are connecting to the house. What’s the condition of that? Usually a sign is at the top edge, where it meets the deck. You may have some rot in there that you’ve got to look out for. Take a screwdriver and hit it, poke it, just like you’re looking for a rotted sill on a house.
TOM: Now, that’s a good point. A screwdriver really can be one of your best rot-detecting tools.
LESLIE: Probing tools, if you will?
TOM SILVA: You should know, yeah.
TOM: All the years I spent as a home inspector, I used to wear the tips off of those screwdrivers, because it really does tell you whether the wood is good or not.
TOM SILVA: Absolutely.
TOM: Because it can look perfectly fine from the outside.
TOM SILVA: Right. Very deceiving, especially if someone has put a coat of paint on it or a stain or whatever, it can hide it.
But also, look at your supports where they are connected at the bases. A lot of time, they’ll rot in the center. If there’s a bolt or a fastener that runs up the middle, there’s no protection there. And if the deck isn’t a good, pressure-treated material or it’s just regular, conventional lumber that hasn’t been sealed, you’ve got a short life.
TOM: Now, the flashing is also real important because that’s what separates the water from the wood, correct?
TOM SILVA: The water from the wood and also the house connection. It keeps that connection nice and clean. Because if water is going to get in between that flashing and the ledger, you’re going to rot the ledger but you’re also going to rot the house. And you’re not going to see that from the outside, so you’ve got to be – make sure that the flashing is really solid.
LESLIE: Now, when you’re inspecting that ledger point, can you actually see the flashing there or is it so encased behind it that it’s anybody’s guess if it exists?
TOM SILVA: It depends on what type of flashing they used and how they sealed the flashing. Lots of times, people will use an aluminum flashing on a piece of pressure-treated wood and that’s going to rot anyways on its own. And then they put nails through the flashing, so you’ve just defeated the purpose of the flashing. So you’ve got to really look and inspect it and hope – poking around with that screwdriver will really solve a lot of problems right up around there.
TOM: We’re talking to Tom Silva from TV’s This Old House.
So, first we have to check for rot, then we have to check the flashing. The fasteners are also very important, too.
TOM SILVA: Absolutely. Look at the fasteners, look at the hangers, look at the connection where the posts or supports are to the, hopefully, the footings. And if you see any signs of rust at all, that’s usually a sign that there’s a problem somewhere. Maybe the wrong fasteners were used and you’ve got to look into it.
LESLIE: And what about the railings and the banisters? They really take a ton of abuse, especially if you’ve got a fairly high deck. How do you make sure that they’re maintained?
TOM SILVA: Well, again, you want to look at the connection where the railing hits the post: that connection there. You want to look at the balusters. Usually, the sign – the way the balusters are connected to the railing at the bottom, you may see some signs of deterioration or rot there or the wrong kind of fasteners.
So if you check your railing, you can give it a gentle kick at the bottom to see if there’s any loose movement there. And if there is, get on it; get it fixed.
TOM: Now, speaking of railings, a lot of times we have decks that were built many years ago and the railings were actually quite low. It’s a good time to take a look at the height of those railings, as well, isn’t it?
TOM SILVA: Yeah, the railings were 26, 29 inches high. They look great.
LESLIE: That’s low.
TOM SILVA: Yeah. Historical houses. But think about it: back then, nobody fell off the deck, you know?
TOM SILVA: But the building code today is now 36 inches. Some people like 42. I don’t like the look of a 42 but if you’re up 3, 4 or 5 stories, higher is better.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And what about the spacing? It almost seems to keep them closer together so that kids and pets can’t wiggle their way through.
TOM SILVA: That’s the idea. You don’t want a 4½-inch ball to go through the hole of that railing or the space – any space at all – because you don’t want a baby to climb through it or a dog or a pet.
TOM: Now, aside from the structure, we’re looking at the floorboards and we just find that they’re badly splintered. Do you think – a lot of folks think that because you have pressure-treated wood, it’s not going to deteriorate but that’s not true. Sun can really do a number on it. It can splinter it, it can become uncomfortable for the feet. Any quick tricks to fix those boards?
TOM SILVA: Well, you’re right; you hit it right on the head: pressure-treated wood still needs maintenance. People don’t think it does. It gets large checks in it. Lots of times, it won’t rot. Sometimes, you can get – and actually get a defective piece and it will rot.
But you should keep some stain on it. You should keep something in there protecting that wood. I don’t care if it’s pressure-treated or not; it still should have some protection on it. And if it’s too far gone, you may have to cover it with another product or basically replace it. Sometimes, you can take it, flip it over.
TOM: Great advice. Tom Silva from TV’s This Old House, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit. This is a really important topic and something that you really should be doing at least once a season, correct?
TOM SILVA: Absolutely. Right after the winter.
LESLIE: Alright. You can catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For your local listings and a step-by-step video on deck maintenance, you can visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House and Ask This Old House are brought to you on PBS by The Home Depot.
Coming up, with summer ahead, now is the time to get your A/C system in order so it not only works but works efficiently and saves you money. We’ll have tips to do just that, in today’s Building with Confidence Tip presented by Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans, next.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What’s your home improvement question? Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or post it to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Dean in Pennsylvania on the line who’s got an insulation question. What can we do for you today?
DEAN: I have an older home. It has a brick exterior and then the stud walls on the inside. And between there is the air space. And that air space, it dumps down in the basement. And in the wintertime, I’m feeling the cold air sinking and I want to try and get my kids to use the basement a little bit more but it’s a little on the chilly side. And I don’t know if I’m – if that’s like a vent of some sort, if I’m allowed to insulate that or will I cause problems if I close it off or what?
TOM: You can actually see where this gap opens up to the basement?
DEAN: Yep, mm-hmm.
TOM: There’s no reason that you can’t insulate that. That would be along what we call the “box beam” or the “box insulation.” And that’s actually a standard place to add insulation.
The other thing that you could consider doing is you could use an expandable foam in that area to kind of seal the gap, if it’s not too wide, or simply add some fiberglass-batt insulation there. I think that’s the easiest thing to do. That will stop some of that draft from getting through to the basement and make being down there a lot more comfortable.
DEAN: Yeah, right. I didn’t know if that was how you have insulated windows now: two panes of glass with the air space in between. I didn’t know if it was something like that.
TOM: No, there’s not quite that much thought put into it. It’s just kind of the way those old homes were built. So you can certainly insulate that space.
LESLIE: Well, now that summer is approaching, it’s a great time to make sure your home’s cooling plan is set to deliver comfort and energy efficiency. To help, we’ve put together a list of low-cost to no-cost tips.
TOM: First, let’s talk about those low-cost tips. It’s important to get your air-conditioning system tuned up right now. Pretty much as soon as temperatures reach about 60 degrees, you’re good to go to book your local HVAC pro for a pre-season call to make sure that they’re checking it out. They’re going to check the refrigerant levels, all of the bells and whistles that make that system chug along. And get it done now because if you don’t, you might be standing in line when they get busy, when it gets hot. Or it might break down, you know, Memorial Day Weekend, which would be really inconvenient.
The other thing you want to do is change your filters regularly. It’s really important to change them at least once a month. If you have a better-quality filter, which we hope you do, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines on that.
And know when it’s time to upgrade. I mean if your A/C is over 10 years old, it might be due for a replacement. And if you do that, get an ENERGY STAR-qualified model because that’s going to save you some money.
And keep in mind that when you replace just the outside compressor, it has to match what’s going on inside. Because if you don’t do that, it’s not going to give you the same peak efficiency. So if you’ve got an energy-efficient compressor outside but a very not energy-efficient condensing coil inside, you’re not going to save money. So make sure you consider that.
And if you use room air conditioners, you want to make sure they’re sized for the space you’re cooling, as well. If you use one that’s too large or too small, it’s going to waste energy and not cool your house properly.
LESLIE: Now, here are a few no-cost tips. So when you’re installing those window A/C units, you want to make sure you do them on the shady side of the house, if you can. Try to keep those air conditioners out of the direct sunlight. The cooler the unit, the more efficient it’ll be.
Your storm windows. You keep them closed in the winter, also keep them closed in the summer. You’ve got the same leaks year-round, so doing that is going to provide for extra cooling comfort and efficiency.
Window shades? Pull them down. Keep those rooms cool by closing the shades and blinds during the sun-filled hours of the day. The more sun that comes in, the harder the A/C is going to have to work. So just cut that sun out altogether.
Now, if you’ve got an overhead fan, you might have noticed the little switch sort of on the motor unit itself. And maybe you’ve wondered what it is. Well, that’s to change the direction that the blades run in. Now, you want to spin them in the right direction for cooling efficiency by setting the reverse motors for counterclockwise. And that, you’ll see, will pull the air up and sort of recirculate that cool air all around the room.
And when it comes to washing dishes in the dishwasher or doing the laundry or running the dryer, run all of those heat-generating appliances at night if you can. This way, your cooling system won’t have to work as hard, it’ll be more efficient and it won’t put so much stress on the system.
TOM: Improving your home’s A/C system is important. It could be achieved through a combination of sort of common-sense maintenance tips and also by reducing the heat that gets into your home. So if you follow these steps, you’ll definitely improve your air-conditioning efficiency, you’ll save some money and you’ll improve your comfort all year long.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Building with Confidence Tip brought to you by Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans. It’s completely online, reduces annoying and time-consuming paperwork and gives you a real, accurate and personalized mortgage solution based on your unique financial situation, with no hidden fees or hassles.
TOM: Rocket Mortgage by Quicken Loans. Apply simply, understand fully, mortgage confidently.
LESLIE: Alright. Colleen in Texas, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
COLLEEN: Yes, I was wondering about a product called Restore. It’s called Liquid Armor Resurfacer and I have a dock that I wanted to put it on.
TOM: Alright. I’m familiar with those Restore products. I’ve not used them but I know what they’re supposed to do. One thing I would tell you is – I don’t know about the brand you mentioned. I would make sure it’s a brand that’s been around for a long time. Because we’ve seen some of those thick-paint products do more damage than good.
I know, for example, that Rust-Oleum, which is a good brand, makes a product called Restore. It works on concrete and decks, as well as vertical siding. So I might start by taking a look at the Rust-Oleum product. Just make sure you stick with a name brand that’s been around a long time so that you know that you’ve got a really good product that you’re putting on the deck.
And I would also make sure that you tested it in an area, maybe on a couple of deck boards, to make sure you’re completely happy with it before going all-in on the entire deck or dock.
COLLEEN: And is it harder to use this type of product versus just a regular paint?
TOM: Yeah. It’s going to be more difficult because it’s about 10 times thicker than paint. So the application has got to be done right. You’re going to use similar tools but it’s just going to be slow.
COLLEEN: OK. Well, thank you so much.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, are you thinking about expanding your tool collection but maybe you’re confused about which tools you can really get the most out of? We’re going to have some tips to help, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your how-to or décor question at 888-MONEY-PIT. Or post it to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
And The Money Pit is presented by HomeAdvisor, where you can find top-rated home improvement pros you can trust. Call in your home improvement question, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Or go ahead and post your question online, just like Christian did. Now, Christian writes: “I’m thinking about buying either a table saw or a sliding miter saw. I want a lower-priced one since I don’t do all that many DIY projects. Something between $100 and $150 would be in my price range. What would be best for general projects around the house?”
Now, can you get a table saw or a compound miter saw for 100, 150 bucks?
TOM: You know, they are – they do have some surprisingly low-priced units but your first decision is whether or not you want a table saw or a sliding miter. Because they’re actually …
LESLIE: They do completely different things.
TOM: Yeah, they – I mean they really do. If you’re doing small projects around the house, a sliding miter box is probably all you need because it can handle cross cuts of boards that are a few inches wide. And it kind of gives you that flexibility of being able to deliver angled cuts which is super, super helpful.
A table saw, on the other hand, is really designed for those bigger projects, like cabinet-making. And you’re not going to find many choices in your budget, frankly. So, for a sliding miter, though, I think there’s a pretty good selection of tools that are under, say, 200 to 250 bucks. So, my gut tells me that a sliding miter is definitely what you’re after. And in that case, I would research the most current models. Check out the reviews online and make a decision from there.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we have a post here from Maggie. Now, Maggie writes: “We’re building a new house. The first floor has a concrete slab, which we stained and sealed. Can we put wooden baseboards, which are primed and painted, directly on that finished concrete?”
TOM: Well, I think you can. There’s no reason that you can’t. It is wise, just as matter of sort of building practice, that when you do put baseboard molding or wood molding on a concrete-slab house, what I used to do is just put a little small air space in between. I would stick maybe a shim or something in the base – under the baseboards, as I was nailing in place, and then pull it out. So you ended up with an 1/8-inch of air space, just in case that slab does get damp. Concrete tends to be very absorbent, so if you get a heavy rain against the outside of the house there, it can get drawn into the concrete slab. And it just stops it from wicking up the baseboards and leaving that sort of nasty water stain.
And the other thing to consider, of course, is if you’re really worried about that – is you can use a composite baseboard molding that looks like wood, cuts like wood but it’s actually made out of foam.
So those are two options that can help you get those baseboard moldings into a house that’s on a concrete slab.
Alright. Patty is posting to The Money Pit Community page. She has a question about outdoor furniture. Wants to know if there are any limitations in the type of cushions that you can use.
Leslie, that comes down to the fabric, right?
LESLIE: Yeah, that really does. And Patty, that’s a great question. Because you find, a lot of times, people will just pick up any pillow or cushion that they like and then stick it on outdoor furnishings. And then they’re really surprised when they grow mold or they fade or they just don’t hold up past, quite frankly, a few weeks in the summer sun and the rains that come.
So, when you’re buying fabrics or cushions or pillows for outdoor spaces, make sure that they are outdoor fabrics. And even further, make sure that they are outdoor foam or fillings, whatever is inside that pillow or cushion. Because mold will grow from the inside and then spread to the outside and your fabrics will fade. Whereas if the fabric or foam are made specifically for outdoor usage, they won’t fade. They’re very durable. You can clean them very easily. They won’t grow mold.
I mistakenly put a regular pillow that I kind of just really liked, on my little outdoor settee, which is even in a screened-in porch. And within a season, that was just completely nasty. So buy the right things for the right spaces and you’ll get long use and be really happy.
TOM: You are listening to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on this beautiful, rather late spring weekend. Summer is just ahead. But be it spring or summer, we’re here for you to help every step of the way, with the projects that you want to get done to improve the comfort, the energy efficiency and the beauty of your home.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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From Source Article: moneypit.com