TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this beautiful spring weekend? If it’s your residence, your dwelling, your ground, you’re in accurately the liberty residence because that’s what we do. What a co-occurrence. Give us a call right now. We’d love to help you take on your next home progress assignment at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s show, are you itching to get the plot germinating but wondering what you should start to plant now? We’re going to have some gratuities on a few weeds that are suited for early-summer planting and late-summer eating, exactly ahead.
LESLIE: And also onward, warm climate brought about by the bugs, including the kind that like to eat your house, like termites. You know, they can certainly do a lot of damage but we’re going to tell you how to recognise them, hopefully, before that happens.
TOM: But first, we want to hear from you. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. If you do, we’re giving away an shocking reward that can help you maintain your residence all time long.
LESLIE: That’s right. We’ve got, new from RYOBI, the SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower. Now, the RYOBI SMART TREK features gas-like power. It’s self-propelled technology that’s going to adapt to your pace , not you adapting to the mower’s pace. And it truly does have gas-like power.
It’s available at The Home Depot and HomeDepot.com for 449 bucks. But we have one to give away today to a very lucky listener, right here at The Money Pit.
TOM: Very exciting. Give us a call, right now, with your residence improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Renee, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we are contributing to today?
RENEE: My question is concerning my sump spout. Plainly, a sump pump in the vault. And for a very long time- for several months, I had not been able to heard the sump spout going on. A few weeks- a few months ago, when it was raining very hard, I went down to the basement to see why the sump run wasn’t kicking on and it was the well was filled with water. So, I became onward and I drained the water out by bucketing- making buckets of this, spewing containers of water out until I went down to see where the bullet was. And it was better wouldn’t come on. So I tapped the bullet and eventually, when the spray rose, it did kick on again.
But then now I’m hearing this babble racket in my kitchen-sink piping. And I want to know why.
TOM: Where is the sump pump discharging? Is it exhausting into this cellar sag?
RENEE: The sump spout discharges- it’s connected to the outside sewer strand. And that’s- I guess that sewer- the line is connected to the basement- the kitchen sink.
TOM: OK. So first of all, it has to go through a bait. If it doesn’t go through a capture, you are able come sewage gas that comes back into the basement. So that’s the first thing.
Secondly, the gurgling might just- because it doesn’t have enough water in the sump itself. You’re probably gathering a lot of air in there.
And thirdly, because your sump pump was filling up when you had heavy rain, the causes of that liquid is easily within your ability to repair and stop. Generally, when your sump spout fills up after a heavy rain, it’s because your sewers are clogged or overflowing or your downspouts are not discharging away from the foundation. Or the grunge around the house is not sloping away from the outside walls. That’s what causes problems with water filling up in cellars and fills in a kind- because that outside face sewage is just not set up right.
So I would focus on improving your exterior drainage. There’s a great article on MoneyPit.com about how to solve wet vaults. A slew of that advice applies to this. And then you’ll find that the sump pump is gonna have to run that much less.
RENEE: OK. That’s great news.
TOM: Renee, thanks so much better for scream us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Bill in Michigan is on the line. How can we help you today?
BILL: My wife and I constructed a mansion about 10 years ago and we have a 2-car attached garage. And their own problems is is that the flooring of our garage is not level. And so, when ocean sags off the car from rainfall or more particularly, ice and blizzard, it throws off onto the garage floor and starts to go in different low smudges on the floor.
BILL: And a lot of it disappears directly towards the wall of our house.
BILL: So I’m wondering if there’s anything we can do to correct that trouble without having to remove the floor and replace it.
LESLIE: Can you use something like Abatron or Abocast- I remember which one is the leveling deepened- but to building and strengthening more on one side? Or will that only automatically try to go flat?
TOM: I’m thinking, Leslie, it’s so much work to be able to deal with a surface this big, to try to get it level again.
I actually envision, Bill, it’s frankly going to be easier to tear out the old-fashioned flooring. That might seem extreme but you may be surprised that with the right tool, like a jackhammer, you can have your entire storey torn out in a couple of hours. It undermines up certainly easily. And then you can suitably level it, accurately reinforce it and then repour it and be done.
BILL: I was afraid you were going to suggest that. Because the problem is is the floor is sitting on precast concrete radiations, because we have a spare storage space underneath the garage. And so the irrigate trickles down there.
TOM: Ah. Oh, man.
BILL: So, I could do that, I guess, but I don’t know the likelihood of being able to take cement off of those precast ...
TOM: Yeah, that does- no, that dramatically- I was thinking it’d be over fill dirt like every other one.
TOM: But no, that does manufacture it a great deal harder. So I guess you are going to have to look into a floor-leveling compound for this. And there’s a variety of commodities out there that this can work with. But the key is is it’s not just more concrete; it’s a produce that’s written specifically to stick to the existing concrete floor.
TOM: Because you have the full temperature fluctuate there in Michigan and if you don’t have good adhesion, you’re undoubtedly going to have that second layer chip off. So, it can be done. It’s a bit of a pain in the neck but it certainly can be done.
BILL: Would you intimate a material contractor? Do you think they would be familiar with the options there?
TOM: You may be better off having a pro make love, because you really have to set some words to get this level just right. And then you should be eliminated as you go so that it drains (inaudible).
BILL: Oh, how much could you put on top of a flooring that I described?
TOM: Oh, you could positioned 2 or 3 inches, easily.
BILL: OK. OK. I increase that.
TOM: You’re welcome, Bill. Good blessing with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. But you can also reach us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, which is presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to encounter top-rated, neighbourhood dwelling improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And only ahead, are you itching to get your garden germinating but wondering what you should start to plant now? We’re going to have some tips on a few cases bushes that are suited for early-summer planting and late-summer munching, really ahead.
Making good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
You are listening to The Money Pit, which is was put forward by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a errand. Only use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others pay off a similar assignment. It’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
And remember, while you’re online, ability on over to MoneyPit.com where you can post your questions in the Community section. You can also be used give us a ask with whatever it is you are working on, right here, at 888-MONEY-PIT. We’ll give you a hand. And hey, however you ask your question with us on the breeze, you’ve got a chance to win a great prize. And this is really the excellent summertime giveaway.
We’ve get up for grabs the RYOBI 40 -Volt Lithium 20-Inch SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower. That’s right. I said self-propelled. So, it’s going to adapt to how you walk along, with the SMART TREK technology. So if you’re walking sluggish, it’s going to walk at your speed. If you’re walking swiftly, same lot. It’s not going to drag you across your ground. And even though it is battery-powered, you get the full gas-power feel. It’s really a great choice.
It’s worth 449 horses. If you want to check it out, you can see it at Home Depot and at HomeDepot.com.
TOM: We’ve got one going out to one luck listener. Make that you. Pick up the telephone, give us a order, right now, with your dwelling better question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Steve in Illinois, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
STEVE: Looked outside this year and we’ve got a building that was built in 1929. It’s got a porch above the porch down below. And on the exposed joists, those carpenter bees have framed some flaws in there. And it- we’re looking for a course to eliminate the carpenter bees and not necessarily poison everything in the neighborhood.
LESLIE: Well, part of what they’re doing is - you are familiar, they really enjoy eating this natural wood. So they’re coming there because you’ve got something tasty to offer up. And it turns out that they love to endure these holes that are perfectly 3/8 -inches round.
So, you can do a couple of things. You can have it given by a pest professional and then seal up those pits and that should do the trick. But you’re right: substances are use and that might not be what you have in mind.
The other thing is you can cover that or change that joist perfectly- or whatever the patronize is- with a synthetic wood or a composite that looks like wood but it’s not actually timber. It is likely to be extruded PVC, it is able to recycled plastics. This path, it looks like wood; it’s doing the same job that the lumber case was. However, carpenter bees, carpenter ants, termites, whatever pests like to eat a natural informant as lumber, they’re going to try it, they’re not going to get into it and they’re going to be really confused and fly away and find somewhere else to eat.
STEVE: Yeah, that sounds like an option. Yeah, I was wondering if there was something that- I assume that painting it has not been able to make a difference. I didn’t know if there was something that could be topically applicable in it that would be environmentally friendly and keep the bees out.
LESLIE: Unh-unh. I’ve had them eat through the decorated grove that compiles up my entire screened-in porch. And then what happens is they bore a hole but they won’t bore all the way through. They’ll bore into the wood, even if it’s just a 1x6 or whatever. They found to stand into it and then bore through the grove itself and lay their eggs in there.
STEVE: OK. And it- yeah, it’s amazing. It looks like somebody got out with a instruct and taught the hole in there.
LESLIE: It’s precisely bizarre. It’s perfect how they do it.
STEVE: So, basically, the options, mostly, are having someone come out and treat it or either submerge or converting the material that’s there.
LESLIE: Yeah, reforming material is typically the best bet since they were won’t eat it. And then, as an added benefit, it doesn’t require any upkeep except the periodic cleanup. You’re not going to be painting it all the time. It really is a win-win situation.
STEVE: OK. Yeah, I’ll look into that. I’ve got a contractor that’s got to come out regardles, so I’ll look into both options. But it sounds like it- I’d prefer something that wouldn’t have to do with pesticides but ...
TOM: Steve, I hope that takes care of those carpenter bees once and for all. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Deb in Wyoming, you’ve came The Money Pit. How is impossible to help you today?
DEB: Yeah, I’ve got some trouble with an area of grass right in the midst of my ground. It’s probably 20 x20.
LESLIE: The yard? Or the problem area?
DEB: The difficulty range is probably 20 x20.
LESLIE: OK. That’s a big problem.
DEB: Yeah. And the lawn is pretty big and it thrives actually good the whole way around such areas. And it simply- it’ll grow maybe an inch or two and then it kind of heads out and never really get dark-green. We leant additional water on it and we fertilize it and aerate it, just like the rest of the lawn, but it only doesn’t look good. And seems funny that this organization is time in one area.
LESLIE: Well, it could be that that area, for whatever reason, has a different pH balance than the other parts of your lawn itself. And hence that the grain that you’re utilizing is reacting differently to the soil than the other areas.
So, you might want to take a couple of soil samples from the question expanse and have those experimented. Sometimes, the dwelling centers sell hardly kits. Sometimes, you might have to contact your neighbourhood construct bureau to find out who you can do that with. But you can have a soil test done pretty easily and inexpensively.
And formerly you know exactly what’s going on with the soil in this area, I mean that could be instructing to have this information. Because you could be using the mistaken grain, you could be using the erroneous fertilizer. That will tell you exactly what type of fertilizer, when, how to sea it. That’s really the key now and that should clear up a lot of this problem.
DEB: OK. That like the sound of that. I’ll sure give it a try.
TOM: Deb, I hope that helps you out. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Well, there are lots of early-summer veggies to choose from, like turnips and beets and radishes and carrots and onions, that are great for early-summer planting. If that’s on your to-do list, it’s best to start with the small seedlings for those working with the shorter changing seasons. Now, some of these seed crops need 90 epoches for maturity but others, like the winter varieties of radishes, they’re ready to begin harvesting in 22 days from seeding. So, you are able to basically eating them in less than a month.
LESLIE: That’s really fast and kind of amazing.
Now that you’ve got a bunch of fresh veggies, well, what are you going to do with them? You can also be used contributed them to leafy salad speck that are also perfect for early-summer germinating, like Swiss chard, arugula and needle lettuce.
And hey, good story: if you like snow peas and you want to add them to a salad, go right ahead and stretch them in your yard. They are excellent for growing in this type of weather. And even though we’re not hoping for any wintertime climate anytime soon, snow peas change in the snow.
TOM: How about that? For more details, check out “Green Goodness: 12 Veggies You Can Plant Right Now” on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Tony in North Carolina is on the line with a water-heating question. What can we do for you today?
TONY: My wife and I are in the process of- I suspect we’re trying to gather as much datum as we can. About to build another home in the next few months and we very much are interested in some of the ENERGY STAR features that we are- have been seeing.
Just wondering, is it feasible for us- there’s only four of us in their own homes- to install the tankless water heater or would we be squandering money there?
TOM: A tankless irrigate heater is an excellent option for a family of four or even more. You buy the tankless water heater based on the number of bathrooms in the chamber of representatives. And the advantage is that you’re simply applying it to heat the sea as you need it. A cistern liquid heater maintenances all of that water red-hot, 24 -7, whether you’re exploiting it or not. A tankless liquid heater attacks on challenge and hots irrigate as it delivers across its heat exchanger, basically. So I do think that a tankless liquid heater sounds like a good engineering in order to be allowed to consider.
And how perfect that you’re building a dwelling now and can strategy it. One of the more common accusations we get- that you might want to consider, Tony- is parties complain that it takes too long for their liquid to get hot in the morning. So, the reason that happens is because the sea heater is very far away from the lavatory. That is a condition that would continue even with a tankless but the advantage is that since the tankless spray heaters are very small and can also be direct-vented through the exterior siding, that you could actually have the ocean heater more centrally located to the lavatories. So that when you do turn the ocean on in the morning, you’re not waiting very long for that irrigate to actually get there.
TONY: OK. I thank you so much for it.
LESLIE: Now we’re chief on over to Washington State where Sabrina is dealing with some grout that’s cracking up. And it’s not roaring; it’s falling apart. Tell us what’s going on.
SABRINA: So I had some grout set fairly some time ago. And they’re about 18 -inch tile sections. And what I’m detecting now is there are several residence- it’s kind of happening all over- where the grout is actually cracking. And I’m not sure what to do.
TOM: So, is it a penalize cracking or is it a big crack?
SABRINA: The grout is cracking and now some of the tile article are cracking.
TOM: Yeah, that’s a problem. It resonates to me like the tile was not put down on a locate that was solid enough. When you use a big tile like that, you need to have a really strong base. So you have to have a mud base or you have to have a tile locate. And you are able even have to have an expansion material underneath that so that you don’t get this kind of cracking. If you don’t get good substantiate across an 18 -inch tile and you get a little bit of movement in the floor, it cracks very quickly.
So, I think this- at this spot, it’s going to be something you’re going to have to manage. And if it gets really bad, you’re going to end up making those tiles out and supplanting them. It’s very hard to recover from this when the tile hassle was potentially not done right to begin with.
SABRINA: Yeah. And I was wondering if it has anything to do with- I’ve heard a couple of beings "re trying to tell me" the underlayment- and maybe you said that- the underlayment wasn’t procured down properly or whatnot.
TOM: It wasn’t strong enough, right. It wasn’t strong enough. You identify, if there’s more- if there’s flex in the storey, the tile is not going to bend, it’s going to crack. And so that’s why the tile- what’s under that tile has to be really solid. With a- bigger the tile, the wider the tile, the little forgiving it is. If you settled mosaic down, you know, it can move the working day long and you’re never going to see those sounds. But when you positioned a big, 18 -inch square tile down, it’s got nowhere to go.
SABRINA: It’s got nowhere to go.
SABRINA: And what is your recommendation for my- for correcting it?
TOM: Unfortunately, there’s no easy recommendation. If the tile project was done wrong to begin with, there’s nothing I can tell you to do that’s going to fix it at this top in time. It’s really going to be something that you’re going to have to condone and eventually, you’re going to end up replacing them. And this time, you’re going to do the suitable place with putting the flooring down.
How long have these tiles been down?
SABRINA: About five years.
TOM: I was going to say, whoever threw them down didn’t really do the job freedom. You’re going to end up having to tear it out and do it again.
SABRINA: That’s OK. Well, thank you, guys. I just wanted to talk to some professionals. And I heard your show and I really appreciate you guys giving me the advice.
LESLIE: You are adjusted to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online.
Hey, if you’ve been experiencing a beautiful garden-variety and landscape but you’re noticing that you’re not the only one, you could be dealing with wildlife that’s making a snack out of your ground. We’re going to have some tips on a natural solution to keep them away, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, if you’ve been enjoying a beautiful garden and landscape but you’ve noticed that you’re not the only one, you might be dealing with wildlife who’s making a snack out of your yard.
TOM: Well, whether it’s rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks or my own personal nemesis, deer- yes, that’s right, I’m at war with Bambi- there’s a mixture that can control these and many more.
LESLIE: With us to talk about that is lawn-and-garden care expert Jim Wood from Bonide, a company that’s been helping homeowners save wildlife at bay now for over 90 years.
JIM: Hi, Leslie. Hi, Tom. Thank you for having me.
TOM: This can be really annoying. You think you’ve done everything right and you’re flourishing a beautiful scenery or a beautiful garden, you wake up one morning or you come home one nighttime from creation and you find out that some of your beautiful return has been snipped at ground level by some of the neighbourhood wildlife. You must get a lot of questions about that at Bonide.
JIM: Yes, we do. And we have a very large assortment of repellents that we have available for customers. But Repels-All Animal Repellent is by far our best seller, as it assures over 15 different animal pests.
TOM: Interesting. So, this particular product naturally repels them? What is it about the produce that stirs these swine want to stay away?
JIM: Well, it’s reached with all-natural ingredients. And what it does, Tom, is it creates a negative tendernes with the animal. The animal does a bad response to either the smell, the savour or the irritation.
JIM: That’s the style that commodity employs. So it was working on all three abilities: bouquet, flavour and irritation.
TOM: Then formerly they get sort of a sense of that and know they don’t want to go back to it, do they generally stay away or is it something that you have to do over and over again?
JIM: It will have to be reapplied about every two months. It’s rain-fast formerly baked and it’ll last up to two months. So they’ll need to procreate some reapplications.
And the other thing you need to realize- individual consumers need to realize- is as bushes thrive- let’s say you scattered the seed in late April. And as that weed germinates through the month of May, understand the brand-new raise doesn’t have any spray on it. So you have to come back and spray that brand-new growth, as well.
LESLIE: Jim, do you think that the animals get used to that taste or that smell of a product and then maybe you shouldn’t be using the same product again and again, because they do develop that same flavor for it? Or can you echo the concoction?
JIM: Leslie, the ideal scenario is to change up the repellings that "youre using" so animals don’t get accustomed to the one experience, one smell, one irritation. If homeowners continue to use the same commodity month in, month out, the animals will get used to it and they’ll exactly mostly manipulate right through it. So the ideal scenario is to change up the repellings that the homeowner uses.
They can use Repels-All- one application- followed up with Bonide’s Animal Repellent, which is a totally different active ingredient and then go back the next time, which would be the third application - you can prepare that with Repels-All. So, yes, it emphatically is a benefit to switch up your animal-repellent concoctions that you use.
LESLIE: So you really should be applying every month or so as the growth in season is happening.
JIM: Yes, I is undoubtedly agree with that. And I would also have indicated that if they get a heavy rainstorm, it has not been able to be a bad notion to reapply after that, as well.
TOM: We’re talking to Jim Wood- he is a lawn-care expert with Bonide- about how to keep some wildlife at bay.
And Jim, what about the type of bush you’re trying to keep this wildlife away from? Does it matter if it’s a vegetable or say, a undergrowth or your lawn? Time this commodity undertaking equally well on all of those types of floras? Is there any concern about, say, putting it on vegetables that would be harvested?
JIM: I’m glad you fetched that up because that is a critical point with Repels-All. Excellent item for apply on shrubbery, trees, perennials, flowers, et cetera, et cetera. Nonetheless, the homeowner should not apply Repels-All immediately to an palatable. So, vegetables and fruits, happens like that, no.
However, you can use either the liquid or the granular copy as a perimeter therapy around those flowers that are being chewed by a targeted animal you want to control.
TOM: Or doing the outside of it and not on the flower- or the vegetable, in such cases- itself.
Now, is this a concentrate? Do you have to mix it up? Or how is it applied?
JIM: Well, Repels-All comes in liquid and granular. In the liquid copy, we have a hose-end, we also have a concentrate that prepares 2 gallons of scatter and then we have a ready-to-use quart container. Then "were having" three sizes of a granular edition. So, the smallest size does up to about 1,000 square foot and then the 6-pound pocket does 5,000 square feet.
TOM: And I’m looking at the list now of all the various the different types of swine that it fights and it includes deer, rabbits, squirrels, chipmunks, raccoons, skunks, fledglings, armadillos and more. Can’t be mentioned that I’ve ever had a problem with an armadillo but those deer, they just love my bushes.
JIM: Oh, this’ll clearly help keep them away.
TOM: Alright. Jim Wood from Bonide, thank you so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
If you’d like to learn more about Repels-All, brain on over to Bonide.com. That’s B-o-n-i-d-e.com.
JIM: Thank you, Tom and Leslie.
LESLIE: Still to come, can you spot rot? Well, maybe not. Now, if it’s termites that have taken up residence instead, you could be mistaken. We’re going to tell you the difference and what the hell is do about both, after this.
TOM: Where residence answers live, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. We’re going to help you with all the things you are working on around your money oppose. And 888 -MONEY-PIT was being submitted by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and record appointments online, all for free.
TOM: Give us a call right now. We’ll not only answer your home progress question but we’ll toss your reputation in The Money Pit hard hat because, this hour, we’re giving away the RYOBI 40 -Volt Lithium SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower.
This is a stupendous mower. It’s worth 449 horses. Accessible at The Home Depot and HomeDepot.com. It’s get SMART TREK technology, which matches your tempo. It’s got gas-like power, cordless amenity , no messy fumes and oil and gas and maintenance associated with a gas superpower. It gets the job done without any of that trash. And I like the bagger intend. It’s easy-lift. So, single action. You face-lift it right up in between the holds, quit it right back up. Pretty simple.
The RYOBI SMART TREK Self-Propelled Cordless Mower is going out to one caller paint at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, with your residence better question at 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Alan in Idaho is on the line with a fissure in a foundation. Tell us what’s going on at your coin pit.
ALAN: You know, when I first bought the chamber of representatives, a contractor chum of mine said it was no big deal and he gave me some epoxy. Said to drill some gap in it and squirt it in there until it mushed out all the way through and then just go ahead and smooth it off. Well, I didn’t seal it but it’s cracked right again beside it.
TOM: OK. So you have a crack in the foundation that you filled with epoxy and it’s continuing to crack. Is that the action?
TOM: How aged is your house?
ALAN: Sixty-seven is when it was built.
TOM: Alright. So it’s concrete-block wall or cinderblock wall, chasten?
ALAN: It’s concrete.
TOM: Now, do you have any drainage questions around the house?
ALAN: Not that I know of.
TOM: Have you had any moisture in the vault or clues of that?
ALAN: The only time I’ve ever had any moisture in the vault is a previous owned instructed a gap in the storey and ran away the condensate pump through the air conditioner into the floor.
TOM: Alright. That’s not the various kinds of sweat we’re concerned about. The rationale I would like to request that question is why there is just like your wall is a little unstable and that it’s continuing to move. And the first occasion to do when that happens- if it’s not a serious crack , not one where the wall is being removed- is to make sure that your grading and your drainage case are absolutely letter-perfect. Because the more sea that drenches around the outside of that house, the more spray that comes off gutters and gets discharged against the wall, the weaker that footing gets.
It’s kind of like this: when it’s rainy and "youre walking" across a field, you sink into the mud because wet dirt is not as strong as baked grime. So we want to try to keep the dirt around your room- and specifically, under your footing- as cool as is practicable. So sewage ascendancy is important.
Now, beyond that, if this is just sort of a hairline rift that’s forming- is that what we’re talking about here?
ALAN: Yeah, yeah, it is. Well, the original one was a moderately good-sized fissure but ...
TOM: Well, what I would do if it’s a hairline sound is I would fill it with silicone caulk, because it will expand and sicken and won’t- epoxy is pretty rigid if it’s going to break and sound through it. So I would just load it with silicone caulk; that will merely keep out some moisture and drafts from coming through it.
ALAN: Alright. And now, if I dig down- I know it doesn’t go clear to the footing because I’ve been down that far. I mine down to see how far it went down. And so, dig down and indicate perhaps tarring it up below grade?
TOM: I wouldn’t go through all that. I convey right now, it’s- I would simply improve the sewage problems and seal the sound from the inside where you can.
TOM: Alright? I don’t think it’s going to really add to it to tar up the whole foundation. You don’t seem to have any major moisture problem here, so we’re just trying to deal with the drafts and any potential leakage in the future.
Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’ve noticed that some of the wood surfaces around your live examine a bit, say, off and then maybe you touch them or you poke at them and you was of the view that the wood pretty much is no longer there, how do you know if what you’re seeing is lumber that’s rotted or wood that’s been damaged by bugs or maybe even both?
LESLIE: Well, injured lumber can shape your home’s exterior look aged, tattered and then it leads to deeper structural difficulties. Either way, the wood’s got to be restored whether that impairment is caused by insects or decomposition. But if it’s insects that are doing the attacking, you might also need to call in a pest professional to make sure that they are not going to come back and get it on all over again.
TOM: Now, if the lumber is rotted, it’s going to look spongy, kind of almost like cork. But if it’s been attacked by wood-destroying bugs, that damage will have a distinctly different pattern to it. Think about the reverberate of a tree: "youve had" the thin reverberates and then you have the thick peals. Now, the thin hoops are of the hard, sluggish wintertime proliferation of the tree. And the thick rings are the soft, rapidly summer growth.
Now, both carpenter ants and termites will gobble that softer summer raise and then they’ll leave that thin wintertime raise alone. So if you encounter a tree that looks like it’s kind of carved out based on those reverberates, you definitely are dealing with insects.
LESLIE: Yeah. Plus, termites are also going to leave dirt or sand behind, which they use to build these tunnels that keep the insect themselves protected while they go out and about and do all that munching away on your house.
Often, though, people will refer to rot damage as dry rot but that’s genuinely a misnomer, because dry rot is nothing more than rotted grove that’s bone-dry out.
TOM: Yeah. And rot needs sweat to develop. So, besides the repair, you do need to protect the timber with a proper finish to keep it from happening again.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Laurel from Louisiana on the line with assist with a tiling job. How can we help you today?
LAUREL: My husband and I are building a new room right now and we’re putting ceramic tile in the front room and the kitchen. And it’s not "re going to be" closed, so we were wondering what was the best kind of sealant to put on that ceramic tile.
TOM: What various kinds of tile are you using that’s not closed? Are you trying to say that it’s not glazed?
LAUREL: No, it was glazed but I was told that you are required to put a sealant over it to stir the tile last longer?
TOM: No , absolutely no truth to the rumors. The glazing is abundance tough sufficient to protect the tile. What you- the sealant frequently refers to the grout. And if you seal the grout, it can help keep it cleanser and rebuff spray. And the grout sealants are silicone-based.
So, as long as you use a good grout sealant- and the time to do this is before you keep moving, you are familiar? Because once you keep moving and you start grinding some dirt in that tile, it becomes a lot harder to maintain. But if you seal the grout right after the tile is installed, that’s the best time to do it.
LAUREL: What would be the best kind to use?
TOM: A silicone one. A silicone-based grout sealant is what you’re looking for.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And you want to look for one that applies in a style that you are comfortable with. Like if you’re doing a smaller grout line, you would look for one that roughly looks like a nail-polish brush or a rolling foam motor. With a floor tile, you could be looking at a 1/4 -inch to a 1/2-inch grout direction, so that’s easier to apply. But you want to make sure you have something that "youre feeling" comfy applying rigorously to the grouted areas.
LAUREL: OK. Alright. Well, thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Laurel. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Coming up, if you realise a crack, does it always spell structural hassles? We’re going to tell you how to sort the serious from the cosmetic, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a label, right now, with your dwelling increase question at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your residence job before you hire a pro and instantaneously work one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: And don’t forget, chief on over to MoneyPit.com where you are able to affix your question in The Money Pit’s Community section.
And I’ve got one now from Vicky. Now, Vicky is in Hawaii and she copies: “We’re about to interview two different contractors who are willing to build our room. What are important questions that I is well aware when he met with these contractors? We once is well aware they improve the whole house and it comes with everything, from the storeys to the roof, even appliances, kitchen, tub, electrical, plumbing, et cetera. I want to be able to compare the entreats equally.”
TOM: That’s a great question, Vicky, and the only room you’ll be authorized to liken those dictations evenly is if you have a very firm, well-developed placed of architectural specifications. Because all of those situations that you just mentioned, from the floorings to the roof to the appliances, they all need to be described in great detail in those specs. Because otherwise, how do you know what kind of insulation, for example, one make is offering over another?
I had a cousin that was building a home that was destroyed in Hurricane Sandy and I had sent him the names of some insulation contractors. And I asked him how it proceeded. He said, “Well, one gave me the prices and they were dramatically different.” I said, “Something’s not right.” And I look back their estimates. He didn’t realize that one contractor was literally putting in half of the separation of the other contractor, because he didn’t have the right spec there or in such cases, I think that because it was a repair, maybe there was never one developed. But it’s time a good example of what can happen. So you need to have a really good set of specifications.
Also, you need to make sure you have an attorney look at the contract with the builder. You want to make sure it furnishes, for example, how many people are going to be on the website. Is he exerting subcontractors? Is he doing most of the wield himself? Find out what that crew experience "il go to" be like and make sure you provide for change dictates, because you’re always going to change your sentiment. And if you do that, you want to make sure there’s a mechanism for either lending or removing from the cost of the overall profession so you have not yet been astounds at the end.
LESLIE: And you know what, Vicky? Make sure you leave plenty of apartment for a guest room for Tom and I, so we can visit.
TOM: I’d love a good reason to go to Hawaii.
LESLIE: Who wouldn’t?
TOM: Well, if you spot a hit that’s happening in your wall or ceiling, does it spell deeper disturb? Not typically. And Leslie has the detailed information about how you are able to know, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, if you do notice a hit in your wall or in the ceiling, don’t panic. Although you’re going to feel concerned about it, you’ve got to realize that usually it’s a function of age and then, of course, movement of the house rather than a clue of a real structural problem.
Now, as it ages, the house is going to settle. A grassland patch or precisely spackle is going to fall out because it’s not filling into that hole and then nursing onto the gap. It’s too going to fall out as things are moving. So, the best way for a homeowner to fix it is to use a strong, perforated drywall tape.
Now, this videotape has large squares and it approximately looks a lot like a stiff netting. So, first, you want to apply this to bridge that divergence in the crack. Then go ahead and smooth a magnanimous sum of spackle or mud over it. And formerly that area is baked, you’ve got to sand it. You might have to do a pair of beds, sanding in between. You want to feather it out so it makes a nice, smooth transition from the new to the aged. And then is moving forward and repaint it.
And I dislike to say it but you might have to repaint the whole wall because, sometimes, time decorating a patch reaches that spot a bit more obvious. So, assess and experience. Try the small spot firstly and then probably travel paint that whole wall.
TOM: Yeah, that’s good admonition. Now, if you do be understood that a crack seems to be moving or is brand new- in other words, it wasn’t there last year and now it’s there and maybe it’s getting worse- that might be a different reason that’s compelling that. And when you be understood that, you might want to call in a pro, specially if it’s a groundwork crack.
Look, all residences have fissures of some sort. But the ones that are really active are the ones we want to try to stop.
Coming up next time on The Money Pit, we’re going to talk about how to turn your patio or porch into a sizzling kitchen gap. It’s not quite as expensive as you might think. Kevin O’Connor from This Old House is going to stop by with suggestion for making this amazing addition to being able to your hall or yard.
But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this record or audio datum is also available are described in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Creation, Inc .)
You already know how to clean a refrigerator, don’t you? After all, you’ve probably had lots of practice. It’s full of a constantly changing inventory of food and runs 24/7 – so much so that keeping it clean may seem like a never-ending task!
Keeping your refrigerator’s insides clean cuts down on refrigerator odors, but by tackling just 5 of your fridge’s lesser-known areas, you’ll extend your refrigerator’s life and reduce its energy consumption.
Here’s where to begin.1. Clean the condenser coils
You’ll find these radiator-like coils either behind or below your refrigerator. If you don’t keep them clean, your refrigerator’s compressor will run hotter than it should, dramatically shortening its lifespan. Plan on cleaning the coils at least twice a year – more often if you live in a dusty climate or have furry pets.Unplug your refrigerator. Access the coils by either removing the grill on the front or pulling the ‘fridge away from the wall. Use the dusting attachment on your vacuum or a soft brush to clean away the accumulated debris. Do a thorough job – it doesn’t take much dust or pet hair to hold in the heat. Just think of how warm your pet stays under that fluff! Put your refrigerator back the way it was and make sure it’s plugged in. 2. Keep those gaskets clean!
That rubber seal that edges the door (or drawer) of your refrigerator and freezer compartments is a gasket. Its sole job is to keep cold air in and warm air out. Unfortunately, gaskets are often overlooked when you clean a refrigerator during the regular ‘fridge cleaning process.
Gaskets are designed with deep grooves that probably have something to do with blocking airflow. However, they seem to do an even better job of trapping every crumb or drop of moisture trying to escape from your ‘fridge! All of those moist crumbs and sticky drips provide the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, mold, and mildew. And you thought the science experiment inside the ‘fridge was scary!
Not only is a dirty gasket disgusting, but it makes your refrigerator’s compressor work extra hard trying to keep your milk cold and your ice cream frozen. Clean those gaskets every three to six months to keep them sealing properly. You’ll save energy and help your refrigerator last longer.Gently spread the seal apart so you can see the grooves. Wipe away as many drips and crumbs as you can. Scrub the gasket with a mixture of 1 quart very warm water and 2 Tbsp. baking soda. An old toothbrush works great for getting into the grooves. Rinse the entire gasket thoroughly. Use a soft towel to wipe the gasket dry. Rub the entire gasket with mineral oil and buff dry with a clean soft cloth. 3. Check your refrigerator’s drip pan
You may remember your mother or grandmother spending hours defrosting her refrigerator. Modern refrigerators don’t require those messy defrosting marathons because they defrost themselves every few hours.
Those melted drips find their way into your refrigerator’s drip pan. You’ll need to occasionally clean the pan (and the drain hole that feeds it) of accumulated debris and mineral deposits. You’ll probably need the directions in your owner’s manual to even find the pan, so go ahead and follow their instructions for cleaning it.4. Don’t forget to clean the ice and water dispenser!
Sugary liquids splashing onto the ice and water dispenser can encourage the growth of bacteria, mold, and other nasty contaminants. Use a vinegar solution to thoroughly clean the ice and water dispenser at least twice a year. You’ll want to wipe out the drain pan under the dispenser at least weekly. Make sure you also change the water filter as recommended in the manual for how to clean a refrigerator.5. Now that it’s clean, maintain the proper temperature
A refrigerator operates at peak efficiency when its interior temperature is between 37 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees is optimal for a freezer). Add a temperature check to your other routine refrigerator maintenance.
In order to maintain the proper temperature, a refrigerator needs enough thermal mass to regulate temperature changes. Keep plenty of food and drinks inside your refrigerator to absorb the warm air that darts in every time the door opens. You can always fill any temporary gaps with jugs of water – and then use that water for future pitchers of nice, cold tea or lemonade.
With these tips your refrigerator will be running long past its “best by…” date and save some wear and tear on your wallet, too!
The post 5 Fridge Cleaning Secrets for Fresher Food and Longer Life appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Are you dreaming of a new kitchen, but losing sleep over the costs associated with buying and installing brand new cabinets? Well, you can rest easy, for there’s another option: cabinet refacing. Kitchen cabinet refacing provides a quick and affordable way to completely transform the look of a kitchen without replacing a single cabinet. Refacing consists of installing all new cabinet doors and drawer fronts, but leaving the existing cabinets and drawer boxes intact. The face frames of the cabinets and any exposed ends are veneered or painted to match the finish on the new doors and drawer fronts. All the old knobs, pulls and hinges are replaced as well.
As you can imagine, cabinet refacing is a whole lot quicker and neater than ripping out your old cabinets and installing new ones. If you are ordering custom-made doors and drawers, you’ll need to allow a few weeks of manufacturing time beforehand. But while it usually takes six to eight days to replace cabinets in the average-size kitchen, installation for refacing only takes about three to five days. Plus, you can reface the cabinets without disturbing your existing countertops. However, not every kitchen is a candidate for refacing. Here’s how to determine if it’s a viable option for your kitchen.How to Evaluate Your Kitchen for Cabinet Refacing
The great thing about cabinet refacing is that it doesn’t matter how outdated, dingy or dilapidated the doors and drawer fronts are. What’s important is that the cabinets themselves, along with the drawer boxes, are in sound condition and good working order.Start by inspecting the inside of each cabinet to ensure there aren’t any obvious signs of structural damage, such as cracked side panels or loose bottoms. Gently poke around inside the cabinet with an awl or similar tool. If you discover any soft, spongy areas, that could be an indication of wood rot or water damage. Be sure that the upper cabinets are securely fastened to the walls and each other. Check base cabinets for water damage, too, especially under the sink. The bottom of the cabinets should be firm and flat, not warped, sagging or dislodged. The face frames, if any, must be firmly attached to the cabinets, and their edges and corners should be smooth and flat. Small cracks and holes can be filled with wood putty, but face frames that are split in two must be replaced. Make sure that all shelves are securely attached and not cracked, loose or warped.
With cabinet refacing, you gain new doors, drawers, hardware, slides and glides without having to uproot your whole kitchen. You can also choose to add new countertops or a backsplash during the refacing process.What’s the Difference: Kitchen Cabinet Refacing vs. Refinishing
Don’t confuse cabinet refacing with cabinet refinishing. While the terms are sometimes used synonymously, they have two separate meanings. As mentioned earlier, refacing includes the installation of brand new cabinet doors and drawer fronts. With cabinet refinishing, the old doors and drawer fronts are removed, refinished and reinstalled. Refinishing is a good option if you just want to freshen up the new look of the cabinets, but to completely transform your kitchen, consider refacing instead.The Cabinet Refacing Process Cabinet refacing includes the installation of all new hardware, including door hinges, and pulls and knobs for all doors and drawers.
Once you’ve determined that cabinet refacing is a viable option for your kitchen, you must decide whether to tackle the job yourself or hire a professional cabinet refacing contractor.
If you choose the DIY approach, start by measuring carefully to ensure that the new components will precisely fit the existing cabinets. You can order custom-made doors to fit your measurements, or buy prefinished, ready-to-install doors and drawer fronts. You’ll also need to purchase veneer and plywood for covering the face frames and exposed cabinet ends. You’ll also have to purchase all the necessary hardware, such as hinges, pulls and knobs. This is a large, time-consuming project to take on yourself, so consider this approach only if you’re an experienced DIYer.
While it may cost a bit more to hire a professional contractor for your kitchen cabinet refacing project than to do the work yourself, the upside is that the installation will be done faster and neater, and the quality of the work will be guaranteed by licensed professionals.
To find a suitable contractor, you could visit the kitchen showroom at a local home improvement center or schedule an in-home consultation, usually free of charge. A sales associate will explain the installation process and help you choose your new cabinet doors, drawer fronts and hardware.
Next, a professional will measure your kitchen cabinets, order the correct size and number of doors and drawer fronts, and schedule an installation date.
When the contractor arrives, he or she will start by removing all the cabinet doors and drawer fronts. The cabinet surfaces will then be prepped and the face frames veneered. Plywood panels will be attached to any exposed cabinet ends. The new doors and drawer fronts will be installed along with all new hinges, knobs and pulls. The contractor will then haul away debris and clean up the kitchen.
Therein lies the biggest benefit of cabinet refacing: Your dream kitchen can become a reality in just a few short days!
Editors Note: Joseph Truini is a carpenter with many years of experience advising homeowners on kitchen cabinets and other home storage solutions. He shares his expertise online for The Home Depot. To research cabinet refacing options, including those discussed by Joseph, you can visit The Home Depot’s website.
The post Kitchen Cabinet Refacing: Make Sense for Your Kitchen? appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com