TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: On a beautiful outpouring weekend, we’re here to help you take on your home improvement projects, your decor jobs, your outdoor living, kitchen remodeling, soak modernizing, sprinkler singing. Whatever project is on your to-do list, we’d love to help you get it done, peculiarly if you’ve get questions, you’re not sure what the hell is do, what happens firstly, how to hire a pro. “Can I do it myself? ” Pick up the phone and let’s start a conversation. The quantity is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Coming up on today’s show, are you looking for a fun and easy outpouring programme that can add some instantaneous inhibit appeal to your space? We’re going to have five that’ll do simply that, merely ahead.
LESLIE: And have you ever opened an electric bill and been offended? Well, you’re thinking, “How can this be possible and which is why i all that electricity extending? ” We’re going to share tip-off on a new make that can be used to figure out a lot about how you’re consuming your energy and how you can use less of it.
TOM: And as you look around your home, are fractures and punctures and tack daddies taking away from your otherwise well-maintained space? It are likely to be just giving away your home’s age. We’re going to have some tips on how to fix those, once and for all, just ahead.
LESLIE: And if you’re doing your share of spring cleaning, we’re giving away a great tool that can help blast dirt and grime. It’s the new Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Electric Pressure Washer. It’s can be found at Lowe’s for $169 but we’ve got one to give away, right now, to one lucky listener who calls in with their residence improvement question. So throw us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974. Let’s get right to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Kelly in Texas, you’ve went The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
KELLY: Yeah, I have a Craftsman-style home and it has bank volcanoes. But I had an vigour audit time this spring and the vigor examination said, “Kelly, you don’t have any soffit vents in your- around your eaves.”
TOM: Yeah. Hmm.
KELLY: Well, I don’t really have eaves. All of my roof ends in these disclosed rafters. It does have gables and so he said, “You need to vent this house. Your mansion - your attic is are not well freshened because you don’t have any way for the breeze to go in the bottom.”
TOM: OK. So you have no soffit. Is that correct? Basically, it terminates?
KELLY: That’s correct.
TOM: So here’s the solution, OK? There’s a type of vent called a drip-edge vent. And what a drip-edge vent does is it essentially extends the roof strand by all of about 2 inches. And that 2 inch becomes an overhang at the leading edge that provides the intake ventilation for the soffit.
So, if you go the website for AirVent.com- it’s the Air Vent Corporation- take a look at the make assortment there. Look at the Drip-Edge Vent and you’ll identify exactly what I mean.
Now, to do this, you’re going to end up taking off the bottom track of shingles and maybe even putting two shingles in its situate, because you’re going to have to actually physically expanding the roof by a duet of inches. But done right, you will install that soffit that you don’t have and you won’t notice it from the outside. So you’re not going to physically dismissal a difference in terms of the architectural mode of your mansion but you will provide that all-important opening for intake ventilation.
KELLY: OK. Appreciate it.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for name us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Lavonne in Iowa on the line with a floor-refinishing question. How can we help you today?
LAVONNE: Yes. I have 1,350 square paws of engineered-hardwood floor. It has been refinished twice and you know what? It’s looking pretty tough. And I had wished to refinish it again and I’ve thought about do a gelatin with a glaze over the top of it. But I’m afraid if I sand it any more, I’m going to be into the plywood.
TOM: You know, it’s highly unusual that you’ve been able to refinish it formerly. Engineered floors have factory-applied finishes and they’re extremely difficult to refinish, which you may have discovered.
One thing I can suggest, Lavonne, is this. Is the flooring physically injury or is it actually really the finish is kind of worn a little bit?
LAVONNE: You know what? There is some physical detriment because of water editions, like where I had my Christmas tree, right? The peal, where it- because it wasn’t a very thick poly on it, I think.
TOM: Right. Right.
LAVONNE: And then there’s scratches, of course.
TOM: OK. Well, here’s what you could do. What you could do is you could rent not a sander but a floor buffer. And you get a floor buffer with a sanding screen. So it’s a very fine screen that makes the place of sort of the buffing pads. And it will take off exactly the upper face of the flooring finish and kind of dull it out and smooth it out. And then on top of that, you can refinish it. So it doesn’t really beach the timber; it actually simply sands the finish, so to speak.
TOM: And that might be enough for you to get a brand-new finish to make. But I’ve got to tell you, you should just count your favors because having refinished this two and now maybe three times, with engineered you’re certainly far transcending what it’s designed to do. You’re treating this like it’s a solid hardwood and not an engineered hardwood.
LAVONNE: I know. And you know what? I’ve priced out laying new over the top of it, engineered, because to- the cost to remove what’s already there, the already existing, is out of this- out of the- it’s just out of the roof. And to lay over the top of it, is that wise to lay another engineered over the top of it?
TOM: But that said, I don’t understand why somebody wants to charge you so much to take out what’s there. It’s not attached to the floor underneath. It’s not glued down, is it?
LAVONNE: You know what? That’s what I don’t know. It’s the unknown.
TOM: In most cases, you would not glue down engineered floor; it would hover. And so if it’s floating, all you would do to remove it is you would determined the degree of a circular show to the thickness of the floor, you’d positioned a assortment of strokes across the floor in a grid-like pattern, you start prying it up and throwing it apart. The only act that’s hard to get out is where it gets to the edges under the molding. But it shouldn’t be that big of a consider to take over engineered flooring, as long as it’s not glued.
That said, there’s no reason you can’t leant a second layer over that.
LAVONNE: So would you place something in between? Would you hovered the flooring or would you staple it?
TOM: Yeah, it’s always swam; engineered ever swims. And a lot of engineered hardwoods today have a backer on them once, so they’re kind of cushiony.
LAVONNE: We’re "ve been thinking about"- we’re going to list the house. It’s a 5,800 -square-foot home. It’s huge and it’s simply my husband and I sounding around in this thing and so- you want to do something ...
TOM: Well, if you’re going to roster the chamber of representatives, you’re never going to return an investment by replacing the floor. My advice is to sand the storeys with a floor buffer and a sanding screen, articulated another coat of urethane on it and then situated the “For Sale” sign in the figurehead ground, OK?
LAVONNE: Alright. Thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breeze and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Just ahead, we’ve got five fast and easy makeovers you can do to give your home instant curb appeal. And that’s all coming up, after this.
Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, it is officially the spring-cleaning season and it’s time to blast away all that dirt and grime that’s built up over the winter. So, we’re giving away a great tool to help you do time that. It’s the new Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Electric Pressure Washer. And it’s available at Lowe’s for $169.
TOM: Yeah, this is a great tool. It’s super convenient to use and it’s got a lot of very helpful features including, first of all, its cleaning influence. It’s got a 13 -amp motor and that delivers 1.1 gallons of spray a hour. So, that’s a lot of water. It come here for five quick-connect nozzles and they collect on board, which I adore because those nozzles are so easy to lose. But with the quick-connect and the onboard storage, that’s just perfect. And this route, you can choose the perfect nozzle for whatever you’re cleaning.
LESLIE: Yeah. The other thing that I like is that it has only one onboard soap container, also, so it manufactures it really easy to add the detergent. And the detergent truly helps you with a lot of those cleaning projects, like the driveway and the deck, patios, walkways, your siding. You can even wash your car.
Now, you’re going to find the Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Electric Pressure Washer for the everyday price of $169 at your local Lowe’s home progress supermarket. But we are giving one away, right now, to one listener drawn at random. Make that you.
TOM: Give us a entitle, right now, with your home decor or residence better question at 888 -MONEY-PIT. We’ll toss your name in The Money Pit hard hat and you might just be the winner of the new Greenworks 1,800-PSI Electric Pressure Washer.
LESLIE: Tim in Virginia is dealing with some deposit windows. Tell us what’s going on.
TIM: Hi. Run into an issue a lot of goes, with some of the older dwellings that I have, with the windows. For some reason, they are depicted shut or nailed shut. But I’d like to know how I can solve that, as well as some of these openings being dual-pane windows with distillation already in them. Next to superseding them, what can I do to resolve that problem?
TOM: Alright. Two separate issues. First of all, I infer we’re talking about age-old, wood windows being decorated slam? Is that remedy?
TIM: That is correct.
TOM: You’re going to need three concepts. You’re going to need a putty knife, a wood block and a hammer.
Here’s what you do. First of all, you make the putty bayonet and you run it in between the grove window sash and the enclose, the whole way around, as many regions as you can. Wherever you can get that in there, wiggle it in there, that they are able to free it up.
And you take the chunk of timber and from within, you positioned it on top of the sash and you make the mallet and you take a- make a quick rap. We’re actually driving the window down, as if you’re trying to close it more. Do that on both sides, on both extremities. And what that quick hip-hop does is it tends to break the decorate stratum that’s sticking it to the sides. So if "youre running" the putty spear around and you take the pulley-block of grove, give it a immediate rap downward, that should free up the bottom sash.
A lot of people try to get their hands under the window and push up. That tends to pulling the grove enclose of the window apart. But if you hand it a shot down, which is somewhat counterintuitive, that works very well.
Now, as far as the windows that you’re dealing with that are thermal-pane and the seals are failed, can’t do anything about that. When they’re failed, they’re disappointed. And those windows would have to be replaced if you want them to be clear again.
TIM: OK, OK. Alright. I is really framed that to use, probably within the next week or so, with the brand-new group that I merely bought. Thank you so very much.
TOM: Well, we all know curb appeal is king, so ever a good idea for outpouring fix-ups, especially with the longer epoches and the warmer weather we’re all enjoying this time of year. So, if you miss some theories where to start, we’ve got a index of 5 quick and easy makeovers that you can take on this weekend.
LESLIE: Yeah. First of all, let’s talk about your breast door. Now, it’s the prime focal point for inhibit appeal, so you want to make sure that it sparkles with welcome. You can repaint it or refinish the surface, replace the hardware- the grips, the fastenings- touch up all the circumvent trim. That’s a really easy list of fix-ups that can just boost those first impressions.
TOM: Now, the next occasion you can do is accessorize. You want to freshen your home’s first impression with an up-to-date doormat, perhaps a stylish address illustration or maybe some brand-new residence numbers and a brand-new mailbox. You could also think about supplementing a small container garden. I entail it might be as simple as a few cases containers right around the door. Add some bright, dark-green undergrowth like arborvitaes and maybe some flowering weeds. It genuinely makes a beautiful and unusually organic welcome to your home.
LESLIE: Now, next, let’s talk about lighting. You was therefore necessary to make sure you’ve got a well-lit pathway and you can do that with a very simple lighting paraphernalium. If hall lighting is starting to look tired, you can replace those fixtures with modern classics that maybe have the wattage you are required to enhance safe but also spotlit the facade and features.
Next, is moving forward and spruce up your terrain by adding some seasonal shade. You know, it doesn’t have to be everywhere; it can be strategic plantings that add attention and develop focal point. You also want to be sure that you shop for genus that are native to your environment zone and who the hell is more drought-resistant.
TOM: Finally, continue that lawn luxuriant. For green throughout the regions of the season, make sure you reseed your lawn’s rough patches and manure them. And if you’re dealing with weeds, simply apply Bonide’s Weed B Gon and be sure to water that brand-new terrain with an irrigation method or sprinklers, driven by a digital timer. That’s going to help you create a very water-wise routine , not waste a lot of water and taken to ensure that the grass get just what it needs to grow healthy and green.
LESLIE: Next up, we’ve get Pat in Georgia who needs some help with a cleanup programme. What’s going on?
PAT: I have granite countertops. And I am wondering if there is an advantage to using the store-bought cleansers versus a homemade cleaner. And what the hell is the homemade clean be?
TOM: So I guess you don’t have a recipe for a homemade cleaner. Is that what you’re saying?
PAT: No, I don’t.
TOM: If you happen to run across one that you like, tell us about it because I have not found one. But I will say that the commercial clean are usually very well-developed and are designed to give you a longer-term protection than you can probably get out of anything that you were able to mix up on your own countertop.
There’s a website called StoneCare.com that specializes in these types of commodities. And our listeners have always had good success with them, so I would take a look at that website.
But the thing about granite crowns is a lot of folks buy them and think, “Well, it’s stone. I’m not going to have to do much work to the top.” But the truth is it’s a lot of cultivate, isn’t it, Pat?
PAT: It very certainly is.
TOM: It really is. And if you don’t stay on top of it, it gets jolly nasty-looking. So, you are going to have to invest in some regular cleanup and I would simply buy a good-quality make from a good symbol manufacturer and precisely admit it as actuality, OK?
PAT: Thank you so very much.
TOM: Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Richard in Ohio is living in a pretty drafty live. Join the fraternity. Tell me what’s going on.
RICHARD: Insulation contractor came and blew cellulose isolation in the walls. Left a lot of vacancies in it, which caused forced drawings. I had infrared-camera work done and the floors are like 31 degrees and about 45 measures waist-high. And I can’t seem to figure out what’s going on here or what the hell is do about it. However, I noticed a physics coach that restores old-fashioned residences. She told me that if you leave a void in an insulation- segregated wall- it will justification a thrust draft.[ Be creating]( ph) quite a few pushed drafts in here.
TOM: Well, maybe, maybe not but here’s the thing. First of all, "youve had" blown-in insulation done and you follows that up with an infrared-camera inspection. I’m gauge you didn’t do that right after the installer was done, correct? You did this later on to try to figure out why "its still" cold in the house?
TOM: Yeah. And it’s extremely difficult to install blown-in insulation in a wall and make love accurately, so we’ve heard this before. The best installers will take a long time to make sure it gets in just right. They throw in precisely the right amount and they knew how to get it in every inlet and then they use an infrared camera to figure out if they’ve missed anything. So it rackets to me like now we’ve got a real mess in the outside wall. We don’t know what’s segregated, what’s not insulated.
Let’s set that digression for right now and spread two other very important elementaries. Number one is the attic. You want to made to ensure that you have enough insulation in your attic because if you can trap the heat from fleeing from the attic, which is where most of the heat leaves the chamber of representatives, you may find that it’s going to make you more comfortable.
In the attics of Ohio, where you’re located, you’re going to need at least 15 to 20 inches of fiberglass insulation. Most beings don’t have that much. But "thats what" the Department of Energy would recommend. So if you don’t have that much insulation, the first thing I want you to do is add insulation to your attic.
The second act - you mentioned you’re on a crawlspace. Your floor has got to be insulated. Again, unfaced fiberglass batts. If it’s a standard 2x10 storey joist, you had wished to fill that up with a full 10 inches of insularity. If you can insulate the storey and the attic- two areas that are accessible and easy to access - you’re kind of halfway there.
Now, what are we going to do about the exterior wall? Well, short of taking it apart, we’re not going to easily solve this difficulty with a blown-in. If you had an insulation company that have been able to working in collaboration with the camera and computed added blown-in, they might be able to fill it in. But that’s going to be expensive and I don’t know that you’re going to get a good return on investment.
So what I would suggest you do is everything else that you can do to stop the drafts. So that intends sealing around spaces and doors and shops and glowing permutations, specially, to make sure that we get as many of those cracks closed as possible.
And then from a decorating perspective, very often- Leslie, you jump right in because I’ve heard you recommend ponderous dangles over these windows, very, to try to short-circuit those drafts that are sort of descend around the windows.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you can do it sort of two-fold. You know, we have drafty windows. Unfortunately, the previous owners installed not the greatest of windows and they were inadequately positioned. So, short of doing an important project now, I’ve gotten innovative. I’ve done a kind of double-lined fabric subtlety that’s up against the glass portion of the window itself. And I’ll draw those down during the colder ages. And then I have a heavier drape that I use in the winter, as well, that’s rowed that I will only close up to make sure that I’m preserving those sketches out.
Also, if you’ve came baseboard heating in that office, you had wished to make sure that nothing is blocking those baseboards. Your furniture - you’ve got to pull away from the walls. Think about generating it some breath, just sort of circulate the heat around the room a little better. But genuinely, heavy fibers, ponderous draperies, that really does make a huge difference.
TOM: Richard, I hope that advice helps you out. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, have you ever opened an electric bill and wondered where the heck all that electricity is going to? Well, there’s a new product on the market that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re consuming your energy and how you can use less of it. We’ll tell you all about it, next.
TOM: Determining good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and bible appointments online for free.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Hey, Leslie, talking about needing a pro, I understand there was a dishwasher happen at Casa Segrete this week.
LESLIE: Yeah. It’s an ongoing thing that I want to select your brain on.
So , commonly, I mean you know I leave for the studio so early in the morning, at 3:30, 4:00 in the morning.
LESLIE: So I don’t always empty the dishwasher, so the babysitter frequently does it.
LESLIE: So, come weekend season, I go to empty the dishwasher and I realise the little rug right outside of the sag/ dishwasher field feels damp. And I’m like, “That’s really weird.” And I reflected maybe as I’m emptying something, I was- water overflowed. So the next light, I acquired sure that when I put on the dishwasher, I stood there and watched it for a bit.
LESLIE: And all of a sudden, I hear it and much like I thought, ocean is just sort of pouring out of that left lower corner.
LESLIE: And so, I turn off the cycle. I actually cause it finish. I really kept a Tupperware under there; I’m not going to lie. I obtained the water as best I could. I just sort of reeled with it.
But I cleaned off the gasket, I checked to make sure that there’s a good seal. That all seems to be working and now I don’t know if I just should oust the seal. I’m not really sure where to go with it.
TOM: Well, it may not be the seal at all. Because what happens is through all the food molecules, it can kind of jam up the deplete inside the dishwasher or it could affect the hover inside the dishwasher. And if they get blocked with nutrient corpuscles, the bottom of the dishwasher actually overflows. So it’s not like you’re just trying to stop a leak in a dike or something like that.
LESLIE: It’s not like rain that goes in every direction and like wind-driven rain. "Its like" a flooding, you think.
TOM: Right. It may actually just be crowding up. So I would take a look again at that bottom area of the dishwasher. And sometimes, you was therefore necessary to kind of look. It is difficult to see. You is necessary to have a dawn. But take a good, hard look in there. And sometimes, you have to disassemble some of the washer arms to really get to everything.
TOM: And I’ll give you a little trick of the market. If you can get it disclosed and you’re wondering, “How do I clean out all these little, tiny entrances and stuff, ” grab a dry/ cool vacuum. Put it on the smallest nozzle and then employ that to suck all the particles right out there. You can do that with a dishwasher. You could also do it with a drain that’s blockage, by the way, extremely. Doesn’t hurt a situation. And then try it again.
LESLIE: Yeah. Because I went in there and I scavenged the gasket to make sure that that was sealing suitably. And then all those little gunk collectors underneath these components, I took that all out, I rinsed all those off.
LESLIE: I truly was looking at every single part that I could get at and easily remove. But I didn’t to be considered going as far as all of the washing appendages and everything in there.
TOM: Yep. That might be what’s going on. So, give it a shot.
LESLIE: So get in the dishwasher.
TOM: There you go. Get in there.
LESLIE: So as soon as we’re done with The Money Pit, climbing into the dishwasher is mostly what you’re saying.
TOM: You’ve got to de-gunk everything.
888-666-3974. Hey, if you’ve got an appliance question or any other single job on your to-do list, give us a call right now. We’ll swing it on over to ours. And if we pick your specify out of The Money Pit hard hat, you might just win this hour’s pillage, which is fantastic. It’s the Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Electric Pressure Washer.
LESLIE: Have you ever opened an electric bill and wondered where all that electricity is going? Well, there’s a new make on world markets that can help you figure out a great deal about how you’re employing your electricity and how you can use less of it.
TOM: Yeah. It’s called the Sense Home Energy Monitor and I just set one in my home a couple of weeks ago. It’s very cool. You can see how it works at GetSense.com.
But it’s pretty amazing. It acts various kinds of like a fitness tracker for your dwelling. And it tells you what’s on, what’s off and how much power it’s expending. So, you can figure out where all that juice is going and you can save money and you are able to form your residence most sustainable at the same time.
Now, the installation is pretty straightforward. It installs to your home’s main electrical body and then it monitors all that electrical be utilized in real season through an app. That’s going to let you participate accurately what’s going on. And it can even was talking about how much it expenditure daily, weekly and even monthly to run your chocolate potty or your air conditioner or your dishwasher or your refrigerator. It basically moves everything. And you might even be able to blot vigor guzzlers before they show up in the form of a big electrical bill.
LESLIE: Yeah. Sense is also going to help you "ve been looking for" their own families by tracking your home’s activity and machine use.
For example, in that Sense app, you can see if you’ve turn out your attire dryer before you leave the house. And you can also determined alerts to tell you if the coffee maker, for some reason, still happen to be on.
Now, Sense can also help you avoided problems by relating unexpected the actions of your residence. And it’s all happening in real term and before it becomes an issue, because it can look for odd patterns like, say, your refrigerator that’s running constantly because its filter is blocked or a sump pump that runs more than customary because the water heater broke and your basement’s flooded. It genuinely gives you a evidence to what is going on.
TOM: It’s certainly an incredible and helpful and very smart device that can save you coin and meet your home more efficient and sustainable. Check it out at GetSense.com. That’s GetSense.com.
LESLIE: Up next, are you tired of staring at walls full of cracks, dings or hammer sounds? Well, drywall reparations are a common headache for homeowners but easy for a pro to handle. We’re going to tell you what’s involved, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, after this.
TOM: Establishing good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we want to talk to you about your fund cavity. What’s going on in your residence? We’re here to help you get those projects done. The count is 1-888-MONEY-PIT and that’s presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home projection before you hire a pro and instantaneously diary one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Teddy in Oregon is dealing with a sodden foundation. Tell us what’s going on.
TEDDY: Well, I am anointed with rain and clay soil here in Western Oregon. And I have a crawlspace that is wet. I lift up the plastic and there is mold and salamanders and fain\xc3\xa9ants under there.
And so I did discover a rift in the foundation, which illustrates a lot of this moisture.
TOM: Well, yes and no. Concrete foundations and brick foundations are very porous. The actuality that you have a crack doesn’t means that that’s the only path spray is getting through. What this does necessitate is that you have way too much water collecting on the outside of your house.
So what you need to do is to extremely carefully improve the sewage modes at the foundation perimeter so that soil ascents away from the house. And even more important than that is to clean your trough organization and diversify those downspouts away from the house. That’s really critical. If you do that, you will find that it makes a big difference on the amount of ocean that’s getting into that infinite and it will dry up fairly nicely and frankly, quite quickly.
TEDDY: Oh, OK. I was of the view that the gutter system is all- has pipings out to the street.
TOM: Yep. You need to be sure about that and you need to be sure that they’re not undone or clogged.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Especially if you’ve "ve got nothing" underground that you can’t monitor or see if it’s, in fact, free-flowing. You’ve got to make sure that it’s actually is moving forward, it’s connected. Because the smallest sum of a choke can induce a huge amount of water, in comparison to the amount of a clog, inside your house.
TEDDY: Oh, OK. OK. So, I’ll work on that and evaluate the grime away from the house.
Now, right now, I have- I was all set to buy a dehumidifier and then someone told me, “No, that won’t do you any good.” So, I placed a fan on either point- one blowing in and one blowing out- so it could go out the vents.
TOM: But search, the solution now is not to try to get rid of the moisture that’s there; it’s to stop it from going there in the first place. So you need to follow our the recommendations on this, which is specifically to improve the drainage situations at the foundation perimeter. There’s the recommendations on how to do this, online, at MoneyPit.com. It’s one of "the worlds largest" common questions we get asked and the mixture is really quite simple, OK?
TEDDY: OK. Yeah.
TOM: Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, here’s a project that pros and non-pros have solved with all the time and especially this time of year. I’m talking about spring cleanse. You know, this really is the time of year we take advantage of a good, strong cleaning structure to get rid of all of that winter’s dirt and grime. And it just so happens that we have an awesome prize this hour to help you do precisely that. It’s the new Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Electric Pressure Washer and it’s available at Lowe’s for 169 bucks.
TOM: Yep. Great tool. Very fun to use. Mint of cleansing power. Thirteen-amp motor delivers over a gallon of liquid a instant. It’s got five quick-connect nozzles that store on board; you’re never going to lose them.
So think about all the things you could do with this: your driveway, your deck, your patios, your walkways, your siding or even rinsing your car. I mean my favorite thing to do around the car is to clean those boundaries, because they’re just impossible to do any other way. But with a influence washer, they come out like they just came off the lot.
So, it’s the Greenworks 1,800 -PSI Pressure Washer going to go to one caller glean at random. Make that you. The amount is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Craig in Pennsylvania is on the line with a flooring question. How can we help you today?
CRAIG: I had an exterior concrete foyer and I enclosed it. And I’m trying to make it part of the house now. But the floor itself, I said, is concrete. It’s all cracked and it’s breaking up. Is there some easy highway or some way I can smooth it out or do something with it to make it look like an interior office now to this part of the house?
TOM: Absolutely. First of all, if the surface is deteriorated, you’re going to have to use a patching deepen on it. And I would recommend the premixed QUIKRETE Concrete Patch Compound. It comes in a tub and you simply apply it to the surface. You can fill in all of those areas that are deteriorated; you can fill over the cracks.
And the reason you’re use a patching compound is because it’s designed specifically to stick to the concrete. If "youre using" regular concrete, you’re going to have a problem with that because it won’t stick; it’ll simply split off again. Alright? But if you use a concrete patching compound, it will adhere.
CRAIG: Thank you very much.
TOM: Well, drywall mends are probably one of the most common home maintenance duties whereas it is necessary to take over as homeowners. But if you don’t do them right, you’re going to be doing them again and again and again. So, to avoid those dangers, it helps to have a pro and you’ve got to plan carefully. We’re going to share some tips-off on how to do just that, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Now, the three most frequent types of mends needed are nail sounds, faults and fissures. Now, DIYers that give on these projects often find themselves doing them time and again, because the sounds or the holes keep coming back. But pros just seem to get them right the first time. But there are some key deceptions here.
Now, first of all, let’s talk about tack sounds. These result from a fingernail that has tightened and started to back its way out of the drywall. But sounding them back in isn’t enough to prevent a repeat. Instead, pros are adding an additional fastener on top of the release one and that self-assured it in place. And then they spackle and beach to see that entire mend practically invisible.
TOM: Now, restoring wall or ceiling fissures is another kind of tricky job. The best style to fix a wall or ceiling rift is to use a strong, perforated drywall tape. It’s often yellowish and has various kinds of a mesh look to it. It’s get large squares and almost examines genu of like netting.
Now, a pro is going to apply this firstly and that’s going to bridge the gap in the crack. And then they use a skilled hand to spackle over the tape. And it makes several reduce hairs, so it could be sanded, primary and drawn in time a day or two. Most often, DIYers make the mistake of putting too much spackle on. And even the spackle inspects terrifying or they have to sand the heck out of it and it exactly gets all over the place. So that’s why the pros have the skills to get that done in a very short timeframe.
LESLIE: Now, replenishing holes in drywall, that’s kind of a bigger job. For that, you’re going to need a scrap of drywall, a leftover piece of space screening, some seam compound and a few common tools.
Now, pros are going to know the best way to patch a hole is to cut the hole to fit the spot and not the other way round, even though they are it conveys that you’ve got to make that hole a little bit bigger. Next, they’re going to apply two or three thin coats of spackle. And once covered, that fault is no more.
TOM: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated service pros in your region, read validated reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Well, outdoor igniting is in full swing as we all spend more time outside. But the liberty illuminating does more than exactly enlivened the seat. We’re going to tell you how to add low-voltage dawns for stunning results, when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Concluding good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Here to help out with your home improvement projects at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. com. Never worry about overpaying for a chore. Exactly use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar project, all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Alright. Well, everybody appeared to have this warmer weather and biding outdoors on their imaginations, with these questions we’re investigating online. So, Robin in New Jersey posted: “Does my grove floor need to be shut every year?” Well, I convey it shouldn’t if you’re taking somewhat reasonable care of it, I would hope.
TOM: Well, yeah. And also, if you’re exerting good produces and you’re postdating good procedure in actually applying this sealer properly or discoloration. If it’s in really bad shape, Robin, the one alternative you might want to consider is superseding the decking and the railing with composite. If you do that, you’re never going to have to seal or stain again.
Now, you can leave the structure, right? If it’s all pressure-treated, it’s secure, the structure’s not rotted, it’s well appended to the house- that’s really important because we hear about deck crumbles every summer, since they were pull away from the house. But if such structures is good, you could pull off those committees and supersede time those. We call it a “deck makeover.” It’s a good deal less expensive than doing the part floor from scratch and it certainly seems utterly delightful. So that’s unquestionably a good alternative for you.
But if you do need to stain it again, just make sure you strip off all that aged sealer before you apply the new coating. It should previous you three to five years.
Now, if you crave your backyard landscaping to really stand out, the key is the very subtle and startling look that low-voltage lighting can bring. Leslie has tips-off on how to achieve precisely that, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
And you’re a big fan of low-voltage lighting, right?
LESLIE: You know, I am. It really is so simple to install and it can make such a big difference in an outdoor space. It doesn’t cost a lot to operate and it really is a confidence booster as far as a do-it-yourself project croaks. You truly only have to know where you’re starting and know where you’re running and find a fixture you like. So, to start, "youve been" was therefore necessary to gauge how much illuminate it was necessary to and how long you want that investment to last-place. Now, the shorter you stay in your present home, the simpler the illuminate program should be.
Now, the next question is: where do you position those ignites? Well, there are a few easy outdoor-landscaping lighting skills that ever deliver beautiful results at night. First of all, you want to imitative some downlighting. You’re trying to create sunrise that comes from above. That will give you the feeling of natural lighting that you get when you’re sitting in the moonlight. And it can be also used as safety lighting for pathways, driveways and stairs. But downlighting can also be an effective way to light-footed decks and accent road and grow berths. It all depends on the fixture, the width, the scale of assessments, the placement. But that’s one gist you demand from one type of lighting fixture.
Another is uplighting. Now, that’s going to add depth to your trees, the landscaping and any residence features by illuminating it from below. And that creates a spectacular impact. If you place lightings at an inclination, the texture of the fencing and the walls can also be accented. But you want to avoid placing those lamps anywhere where you’re going to get a glare and have difficulty hearing some parts of the space.
And I foresee another option is backlighting. Now, silhouetting an object of interest- like a tree, a shrub- against another lighted surface, it’s a really beautiful, indirect lighting accomplish. And you to be accomplished by angling the illumination against a wall or a barricade behind that objective. These are a got a couple of tricks that the pros are going to use to really create a fully and beautifully illuminate yard.
Now, you can install low-voltage lighting organizations because they don’t require lengthy electrical insight. But you have to be sure that you accept all of those installation guidelines. Also, be taken into consideration you’re going to get what you pay for. So, some of those outdoor-landscaping lighting sets can run as low-grade as $50 but they may not weather well and they can rarely last more than a couple of years.
So time buyer beware. Pick something you like, pick something sturdy. And retain, it’s a project announced “lightscaping, ” so have some enjoyable, experience the daylight and spend more nights outdoors.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, when you open your windows to bring in fresh air, does a cluster of sound come with it? Well, This Old House landscaping contractor Roger Cook is going to be by with a natural mixture for some peace and quiet.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Creation, Inc. No section of this record or audio document may be are described in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Product, Inc .)
LESLIE: Heading on over to Clint in Texas with a question about waterproofing. How can we help you today?
CLINT: Would like some recommendations on a good waterproofing for the cap stones on my roof. My house is a commercial-style building with a flat roof and the parapet is crowned with cap stone. And I need to waterproof that. And I have an exterior that is EIFS and it needs a good waterproofing. And then part of the home’s exterior is also terracotta block. I think the concrete is letting water soak down into it and then when it freezes, it shatters.
TOM: Alright. Well, starting with waterproofing, OK, at the parapet wall, what you want to use is simply a silicone-based sealer for that, since it’s a masonry product. So a silicone waterproofing sealer for masonry is what you would use there.
Now, the more difficult matter is when you mentioned that you have EIFS. And EIFS is exterior insulated foam siding. This is that siding that looks like stucco but it’s not; it’s foam.Now, do you happen to live in a home that’s masonry or is it a wood structure?
CLINT: No, it is built all out of these huge concrete blocks that you would normally see in commercial …
TOM: Alright. Good. Because if you were living in a wood structure that had that same type of siding, I would say you had a serious waterproofing problem on your hand, because the EIFS leaks like a sieve.
I am not sure what the appropriate coating would be for EIFS over a masonry surface but I know that there’s not as much concern about leakage. Because even if it does get in, it typically gets into the joints. It’s going to strike the masonry underneath and not cause rot. The problem with that stuff is when you put it on a wood house, the moisture gets into the sheathing and studs and it causes decay, which is serious trouble. So I can’t help you about that.
Now, what was the third part of your question, about the cracks?
CLINT: I have some terracotta – some decorative terracotta – in the walls, around mostly the pool. And that terracotta has a concrete cap stone, also. But water is seen to getting – it’s getting into some of the terracotta. And then when it freezes in the wintertime, it breaks the terracotta apart.
TOM: I wonder if there’s ever been a sealer put on that. Because if you put the wrong sealer on it, that very condition happens. If you put a sealer on that’s not vapor-permeable, which is a type of sealer, the water gets in but it doesn’t evaporate out. You’re never going to completely 100-percent waterproof your terracotta block but if you put the type of sealer on that’s vapor-permeable, then that allows moisture to evaporate out. So I think that’s what you’re going to need to do.
The post Waterproofing Roof Cap Stone, EIFS Siding and Terracotta Block appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here for you, to help you on this warm, summer day with your home improvement projects. Help yourself first: pick up the phone and call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974. Or post your question online to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com. Any job, big or small, do it right or not at all.
That’s my new slogan, Leslie.
LESLIE: I like it.
TOM: You know, it came to me in a fortune cookie from my dinner last night.
LESLIE: No way. Are you serious?
TOM: I’m serious. Isn’t that funny? That was my fortune.
LESLIE: That’s a great one.
TOM: That was my fortune. And then I was like, “Ah, that’s awesome.” Any job, big or small, do it right or not at all. But we – even we agree with that.
LESLIE: That’s perfect.
TOM: It’s perfect. So, if that’s perfect for you …
LESLIE: Money Pit by fortune cookie.
TOM: There you go. Give us a call, 888-666-3974.
Coming up this hour, with all the water that we are plowing through in summer, there are a lot of folks driving demand for water-efficient faucets and toilets and sprinklers and the like. But how do you know if the new, efficient plumbing can do the same job? We’re going to have the lowdown on low-flow faucets, fixtures and sprinklers, coming up.
LESLIE: And here’s another summertime headache: sticky doors. Are you dealing with this around your money pit? It’s because of all the humidity. And this is the time of year when doors start to swell and then they swell and get stuck in their openings. But there is an easy fix. We’re going to tell you how to make that door work year-round, regardless of the weather.
TOM: And between sky-high electric bills and expensive heating costs to come, is this the year you’re finally getting ready to replace those leaky or drafty windows? We’re going to have tips on the best way to get that project done and be able to enjoy year-round energy savings, summer and winter.
LESLIE: And we know you guys love to be online. Everybody’s searching for things left and right. But are you guys on Pinterest? It’s such a fun site and we’re so happy to see that over 100,000 of our audience visits us every month for great ideas on everything from decorating to energy efficiency.
Now, when you go on Pinterest, you can pin articles, blogs and more, directly from our website, with our Pin It button. And then you can share our pins or pin your own great ideas to our boards. You can find it all on the official Money Pit Pinterest page. And if you aren’t on Pinterest yet, get a friend to invite you. It is definitely worth it. You can search anything and everything and get a ton of great ideas.
TOM: Alright. Let’s get to your questions. The number, again: 888-MONEY-PIT.
Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Kelly in Illinois is on the line with a foundation issue. Tell us what’s going on.
KELLY: It’s very complicated. I’ll try to keep this as simple as I can but we, having had our house for 22 years, suddenly water was coming in through one of the basement window wells. It’s not an egress-size window, just a small window in the basement. And so, we think it’s primarily because the grade is negative now and it’s all – you can see, even with your eyes, that it’s definitely sloping down towards that window well.
KELLY: So, we need to regrade everything and fix it all so it’s a positive grade. But the big issue that’s in my mind now is a lot of landscapers, if you get them to come over to regrade around the base of your house, they just seem to want to throw soil up on there and not worry about waterproofing or stuff like that.
TOM: Mm-hmm. Yeah. Right.
KELLY: So I was researching on the internet and it seems to me like a lot of sites and even books say you should have a 4- to 6-inch clearance before that soil starts before – you don’t want soil touching the bottom of your siding or even the bottom of your brick. Our house happens to be brick, not façade. Real brick. But you don’t want that soil right up on there, so – but yet I’ll have people coming over all the time, so-called experts saying, “Oh, it’ll be fine. I’ve done it this way for years. It won’t matter.” And I don’t want the foundation of my house and the poured concrete walls of our basement to crack.
TOM: Yeah, that’s not going to be an issue, so let me put your mind at ease. First of all, yes, if you have typical wood framing – you don’t; you have a brick house – but if you had wood framing, you do not want to have the soil to cover the siding, because the wood’s right behind it and the concern is insect infestation and rot. But since you have a largely masonry house – a poured-concrete foundation and brick walls – you can go ahead and put the soil up as high as it needs to be. What you need to be careful of, though, is this: the landscapers like to work with topsoil because that’s what they work with every day.
What you need to do, if you’re trying to make a drainage improvement, is use clean fill dirt first. That’s what you build up the slope with is fill dirt. It doesn’t look like topsoil. It’s not organic. It packs really well. It looks a little bit like the sort of the golden-brown color of a pitcher’s mound.
And once you get that slope established, you can put topsoil over that or you can put mulch or you could put stone or whatever you want to put on it. But you’ve got build up that grade first. And you want it to drop about 6 inches over 4 feet, so I would focus on that. And then whatever top cover you want to put over it – and then also pay careful attention to your gutters and your downspouts. Make sure they’re extended out well away from the house and that the gutters are clean, because that’s even more important than the grade if you want to keep your basement dry.
KELLY: Yes, yeah, we were and – but I’m not sure what you mean by fill dirt. Are you saying that this dirt has some clay in it?
TOM: It could, yes. It could have some clay in it and that’s fine because, again, you’re just using this to fill in the area that’s settled and then you’ll put topsoil over it. Now, it’s called “clean fill dirt.”
Take a look at our website at MoneyPit.com. We’ve got an article there on how to fix a wet basement and it explains it very specifically.
KELLY: Oh, cool, OK. I didn’t know that. But also, the rubber-type membrane that you can paint or trowel on there or something like that …
TOM: You’re talking about on the walls?
KELLY: Well, on the very bottom layer of brick if I’m going to have soil go up against that brick. It still makes me nervous to have dirt touching that brick.
TOM: It’s not necessary. It’s not an organic surface. It’s not going to rot, it’s not going to decay and there’s no difference, really, between having it against the stone – having it against the poured-concrete foundation or having it against the brick. They’re both masonry products. I would not worry about it. You want to do anything to slow down moisture and do it, you could put a brick sealer on there, you could put a masonry sealer on there. But I really don’t think it’s necessary to tar it.
KELLY: Well, not real tar, that rubber stuff.
TOM: Same idea, though. Same concept.
KELLY: Somebody told me today that concrete does wick, so it will absorb water and it will crack from water.
TOM: Almost every home in America is made out of concrete or concrete block and so it’s typical for the soil to be right against that. Yes, you could put a sealant on there if it’s below grade. And if that makes you feel better, you certainly could do that. But I think just to adjust the grade that you’re talking about, it’s really not going to be that big of a deal.
KELLY: OK, well …
TOM: Alright. I think I’m telling you what everybody else told you but I’m telling you this and I’m not the guy that’s going to sell you the work, OK? So, take it for what it is. It’s independent advice. I don’t think it’s an issue.
KELLY: Thank you.
TOM: Alright. Good luck.
LESLIE: Larry in Texas is on the line looking for some help with a new roof. What’s going on?
LARRY: Well, we have a 15-year-old roof. We put 30-year Timberline shingles on originally. About 15 years ago, we had a hailstorm. I had the insurance adjuster come out and take a look at it and he said, “Yes, you need to replace it.” He says we’ve got about 35 squares to tear off and 39 to replace.
LARRY: He estimated 15 pound felt for most of it, 30 pound felt for our 12/12 pitch. He suggested a roofer company A that suggested shingle brand one.
LARRY: And I have worked with roofer B, who said no, we probably ought to go with shingle brand two.
TOM: Are they both name-brand shingles?
LARRY: Yes, I can name them if you want.
TOM: Yeah. Are they dimensional shingles, so do they look like the Timberline that you mentioned that you had before or …?
LARRY: Yes. They would be very similar to the Timberline dimensional.
TOM: And do they both have the same warranty?
LARRY: I think they both carry 30-year, although one I have not seen written copy from either one. And one of them indicated that after 10 years, the warranty may taper off.
TOM: All these roofers, all these contractors, they’ve all got their sort of attitudes and practices and they like one over the other. But let me tell you something, the differentiator on a roofing installation is not as much the shingle as it is the guy doing the shingles – the shingler, so the speak – because it all comes down to workmanship. And if the workmanship is not rock solid, it doesn’t matter how good that shingle is, you’re still going to have problems.
TOM: And so, I would make my decision based on which roofer I was most confident in could do a good job. And whatever product he’s comfortable working with, then I would just accept that product and not try to force him to use another one. But the devil is in the details. It’s about the flashing, for example, and the underlayments and the ice-and-water shield and things like that. If you get a roofer that does a really good job with those details, then you’re not going to have any issues.
LARRY: The adjuster missed one skylight in his estimate. He also missed one roof jack and he said, “Oh, well, we can pick that up when the roofer does his job.” Is that common industry practice?
TOM: I don’t know what he means when he says he can pick that up. If he missed it in his estimate, then I think you need to ask him to go back and revise the estimate to add the elements in that he missed. Because while you’ve got this guy’s attention and while he’s into the job and you guys are talking on a regular basis, I would just – I would ask him to revise it. It should be no big deal for that to happen. We don’t want this to go to installation and then there’s a payment dispute, you know, three months from now or something and nobody remembers what was said to who and when.
So, yeah, you want to get it in writing. You’re right. If he mixed the count up, if you add six skylights and he wrote down five, then you make him change it. That’s not a big deal. You can do it now.
LARRY: OK. Well, I did a lot of quoting when I was still in the working world and yeah, counts are important.
TOM: Yep. It’s his job.
LARRY: One quick note. My wife wanted a fishing tank out in front of the house and had one contractor dig that one and it didn’t hold water. I had another contractor say, “I can do that.” So I have called it my money pit, with apologies to your program.
TOM: Well, that’s OK. We will lend it to you for that purpose. You say a fishing tank. Is that like a goldfish pond, that kind of thing?
LARRY: No, it was about a ¾-acre pond.
TOM: Oh, my goodness. Wow.
LARRY: But here in Texas, they’re called “tanks.”
TOM: OK. Well, alright. Is there anything living in that fish tank right now?
LARRY: No, it’s not holding water. So I’m going to put more money into it and fill it back in.
TOM: Oh, boy. Alright. Well, listen, whatever it takes to make your wife happy, right?
LARRY: Absotutely (ph).
TOM: Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us, Larry, at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call. We know it’s hot in lots of parts of this country. So if you are working on an outdoor project, we want to help you stay cool and create a project that you can do quickly and get back into the air conditioning. Or maybe you’re working on something inside. Whatever it is, we’re here to lend a hand 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Just ahead, do you have doors that swell and stick because of all this summer humidity? We’ll have the step-by-step solution, next.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your how-to or décor question at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where you can find top-rated home service pros, compare prices and book appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Joann in Ohio is on the line and has an issue with mold. What can we do for you today?
JOANN: I have two decks in my backyard. One of them seems to be fine but the second one, which has a very large dog pen on it, has developed a lot of mold over the winter. And my thought is to buy a lot of bleach and to dilute it and just scrub the mold off. But perhaps you have something better that you could tell me to do.
TOM: There’s a much more effective way to get that deck clean. It’s a product called Spray & Forget. And just as the name implies, you spray it onto the deck surface and you don’t do anything else. You forget about it and it essentially goes to work immediately. And within a few days, it will degrade and destroy the mold, mildew, algae and moss that forms on your deck.
JOANN: Can I then have it repainted?
TOM: Sure. Absolutely. Mm-hmm. Yeah. You could paint it after that. But the thing is, if you use a lot of bleach, you end up potentially damaging all the landscaping that’s around that, as well. So, I would definitely recommend Spray & Forget.
JOANN: Is this – come in a canister or a powder or something?
TOM: Comes in a bottle. It’s a no-mix bottle.
JOANN: In a bottle?
TOM: Yep. You can find it at lots of places. I think The Home Depot has it and many other retailers. Their website is SprayAndForget.com.
JOANN: Very good. I will definitely do that. And it’s safe for pets, too?
TOM: Yes. It’s biodegradable. It’s a safe, non-corrosive product that works really well. It’s also a great roof cleaner. Sometimes you get moss and it discolors your roof shingles. You can spray this on your roof. It does the same thing.
JOANN: Oh, that’s wonderful. I am going to purchase this. Thank you so much for your information.
TOM: Happy to help you out. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
JOANN: Thank you.
TOM: Well, if you’ve got doors in your home that stick due to the summer humidity, you don’t have to put up with them. To fix a sticking door, the first thing you need to do is to figure out exactly where around the door the stick actually begins. So, what you want to do is open and close the door slowly until you spot the exact area where it’s sticking.
Now, if you want a visual guide, here’s a trick of the trade. You can take a piece of chalk and color the top of the door where it seems to stick. And then when you close the door, that chalk will transfer to the spot of the jamb where it’s sticking. And now you’ll know exactly where you need to work that repair.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, there’s a bunch of things that sometimes cause this, outside of the humidity. And you can see what the issues are by that mark there.
Now, first of all, you can tighten the hinges. This really is one of the most common reasons that doors do stick. It’s because that they have loose hinges and then it gets out of alignment. And if the door’s out of alignment, it’s obviously not opening or closing correctly. So you can tighten those hinges and that’ll help the door shift just enough to free up the area that’s sticking.
Now, the other option is to just simply sand the door, which has the effect of fitting the door to the frame. It’s super easy. You’re going to have to sand just a little bit off or perhaps a lot, depending on where that mark is and seeing how much is sticking.
So, to do that, you want to take a piece of rough sandpaper and rub it firmly along the section of the door that’s been sticking. Your goal there is to bring down the size of the door by a fraction of an inch before you test it again. Now, repeat the process until you’ve sanded down all of those sticky points and the door no longer sticks in the frame. But try not to overdo it. Once your door fits well, you can use finer sandpaper – get finer and finer and finer – to smooth the rougher edges. And then prep the door to paint.
TOM: Yeah. And once it is fitting properly, you do want to make sure you paint it or seal it with a clear finish because, otherwise, you’ll have an open area of the wood that can absorb more moisture and perhaps actually swell the door again.
So, pretty simple, straightforward process. Don’t tolerate it. Fix it. It’s easy to do. We’ve got more tips on how to fix doors that swell, on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Tim in Illinois is on the line and looking to tile a bathroom. How can we help you with your project?
TIM: Redoing a bathroom in a 100-year-old house. And we’re looking at putting floor tile down, possibly with heat under the tile. And I was wondering what – the best way to do it. By putting the tile on, do you need to go right to the subfloor or do you have to have some kind of concrete board underneath the tile with doing heat under the floor?
TOM: Well, sometimes the heat is actually put underneath the subfloor itself, so that’s another way to do it from the back side of it. Depends on your access issues. But there’s a special type of subfloor that’s designed for radiant heat or sub-slab heat where, especially if it’s PEX-based, the piping runs through a channel in the subfloor itself. So there’s no chance it could get crushed or anything like that. It’s sort of a channeled-out piece of underlayment.
And then once that’s done, you can put your tile adhesive right on top of that and glue the tile to that underlayment.
TIM: OK. This is in an upstairs bathroom, so we won’t have access to the bottom side.
TOM: What kind of a heating system are you thinking about putting in? Is it going to be electric?
TIM: It’ll be electric. We have geothermal in the house itself, so we’ve got forced-air heat. So it would have to be – I think they have some kind of electric under-mat or something like that. And also, I was wondering, is it best to just do the areas where – the main traffic areas? You don’t need to do the whole floor. Is that correct?
TOM: No, you don’t have to. It certainly is nice. You don’t have to go around the toilet, for example. So, yeah, if you went in front of the sink, in front of the toilet and wherever you step out in the shower, then that should be fine.
And yes, some of those electric heating systems are really nice. They don’t use as much electricity as they used to. You can set them up on timers so they heat up right before you go in the bathroom and then time-out after that.
TIM: OK. So if I get this correct, you can just put a thinset concrete and then put tile right down onto the subfloor? Is that right? With the heating mat underneath?
TOM: Right. If it’s nice and smooth, you can do that. If it’s uneven, then there’s a number of ways to smooth that out, either through an additional subflooring material or by setting mud underneath it.
TIM: I appreciate your show. Thank you.
TOM: Good luck with that project, Tim. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, with all the water that we go through in the summertime, there are a lot of folks driving demand for water-efficient faucets, toilets, sprinklers and more. But how do you know if the new water-efficient plumbing can really do the same job that you’re used to? We’re going to have the lowdown on low-flow faucets, fixtures and sprinklers, next.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to hear about what’s going on in your money pit on this beautiful summer weekend.
How’s that cooling working out for you? Is it challenging? Is it not cooling the house and keeping it comfortable? That’s a subject we can help with and so much more. Give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Alright. We’ve got Jerry in Massachusetts on the line who needs some help cleaning the basement. What can we do for you?
JERRY: I’ve got some efflorescence on the cement walls in the basement. For years, I – when I built the house, I didn’t put gutters up; I had overhangs. And then it started developing. Somebody told me, “Hey, it’s because you don’t have any gutters.” So I put them up right away and it didn’t get any worse but I’d like to clean that white efflorescence off. And I didn’t want to use muriatic acid.
TOM: No, you don’t need that at all. It’s really simple. First of all, the stains that you have, the efflorescence, is just lime. It’s mineral deposits that are left over when water comes through the wall and evaporates. So what you can simply do is brush that off as much as you can. You can use a stiff wall brush for that. And then just use water and white vinegar together. Hot water and white vinegar. Vinegar will melt the salts.
JERRY: Do I have to rinse it down after?
TOM: No, only if you don’t want your house to smell like a salad. Aside from that …
JERRY: Well, I’m not worried about that. But white vinegar should do it.
TOM: Yeah, white vinegar does it. It’ll melt the salts. It’s a really good solution.
JERRY: I thought that but I just wanted to check with you guys first.
TOM: You buy it by the gallon, you mix it with some hot water and just, you know, brush it down.
JERRY: I’ll try that. Should work. Thank you very much.
TOM: Alright. Good luck.
LESLIE: If your water bill is making you woozy, you’ve probably been thinking about figuring out how to cut down on your water use lately.
TOM: And the good news is that there are lots of folks driving demand for water-efficient products. And manufacturers now offer many options and products that really perform but save water at the same time. Richard Trethewey is the plumbing-and-heating expert for TV’s This Old House and he’s here now with the lowdown on low flow.
RICHARD: Hi, guys.
TOM: So, when most of us think about cutting back on water use, we immediately think that we’re going to have to put up with a slow-flowing shower or a toilet that won’t flush. But that’s changed a lot, hasn’t it?
RICHARD: That’s right. Performance is really the buzzword now. When those low-flush toilets first came out, they didn’t work as well as they should’ve. Now, people are getting water saving with the performance they expect.
TOM: We used to call those the “flush-twice models.”
RICHARD: Yeah. And it was – it didn’t quite work. I think the legislation came ahead of the technology. We’ve caught up, though, which is …
TOM: Now we have flush-twice models but for a whole different reason. We’ve got toilets now that literally have the button for a Number One and a button for a Number Two.
RICHARD: Right, right. It’s a dual-flush and that’s a great invention because so often, you only need it for the Number One, not the …
TOM: Most of the time. And so you really save quite a bit of water that way. Add that to the fact that the toilets now need less water altogether because of changes of design. The trap design had a lot to do with that, didn’t it?
RICHARD: That’s right. There’s a certain physics you need in order to make that trap work.
TOM: And the trap, of course, is sort of the path that the waste takes on the way out of the toilet.
RICHARD: That’s right.
TOM: And the old ones were wider but they were not glazed. And there were restrictions in those.
RICHARD: You actually have to create a siphon inside of a toilet. You need enough water to be able to pull that water up into the upper part of the trap and then pull it back down again. And that physics wasn’t worked out at the time the legislation came along. Right now, they work as good as we could ever dream.
TOM: Now, speaking of legislation, there’s a program that’s out, not that many years now, very similar to ENERGY STAR called WaterSense.
RICHARD: That’s right.
TOM: That’s a good thing to look for, isn’t it?
RICHARD: Right. It’s a certification from EPA and it sort of becomes a clearinghouse on what products are sort of blessed and can perform the way they’re supposed to.
TOM: Theoretically, those are going to work and save, I think, up to 30 percent more water.
Let’s talk about showerheads. Man, there’s one thing you want in the morning is a good shower. You’re almost willing to pay for that water out of the recreational budget.
TOM: How are the low-flow showerheads working today?
RICHARD: Well, I think anybody can remember those very first showerheads that came out where you got a fine spray that you didn’t even know if really water was coming out. And the idea was that in order to save water, you had to suffer.
And now, it is – it feels as generous as any showerhead. We did one on Ask This Old House this year where it could come out at 1.5 but you could just hit a button on the side and it would be even less and it still was a great shower.
TOM: So you’re talking about 1.5 gallons per minute.
RICHARD: Per minute. And then when you shut it off, it defaulted back to the regular setting, so it let you choose what you want to do. But in either case, the shower was so generous that you didn’t feel like you were suffering.
TOM: Now, what about aerators on faucets? Have they changed, as well?
RICHARD: They’re really just like the showerheads now that – in the earliest days, the extent of water saving was just to take the equivalent of a squashed dime and drill a small hole in it and hope that the water came out.
RICHARD: But now, they’ve got engineered aerators that give you that beautiful flow with a really low consumption.
TOM: And the engineering really is the key. These guys have figured out how to use less water but really have them perform just like their water-wasting forerunners.
RICHARD: That’s right. The science has caught up with the legislation in almost all aspects of water conservation.
TOM: So making these few simple changes can really add up to substantial water savings.
RICHARD: They can.
TOM: Now, Richard, replacing a toilet requires an investment. Same with faucets, same with showerheads. What if we want to just do something with what we have right now? Is there anything that we can sort of add to our existing plumbing system that’ll help us save some water?
RICHARD: If you’ve got a toilet that’s an old-style toilet, you want to make it more water-saving, there’s a really cool device that allows you to turn it into a dual-flush unit in a retrofit.
TOM: OK. And dual-flush, of course, that means half-flush or full flush?
RICHARD: That’s right. And so you have to change both the flush valve, the thing that makes the water go – leave the tank and go down to the bowl – but also the fill valve, the thing that – the valve that makes the water refill into the tank.
RICHARD: You change them both – they’re about $25 – you’ve got a pretty modern toilet.
TOM: Covers you for both Number One and Number Two.
RICHARD: There you go.
TOM: Richard Trethewey, the plumbing contractor on TV’s This Old House, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
RICHARD: Great to be here.
LESLIE: Catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For local listings and a step-by-step video on this project and others, visit ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And This Old House and Ask This Old House are brought to you on PBS by The Home Depot.
Just ahead, between sky-high electric bills and expensive heating costs to come, is this the year you’re finally getting ready to replace those leaky or drafty windows? We’re going to have tips on the best way to get that project done, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home project before you a hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros, for free.
LESLIE: Mary in Wisconsin, you’ve got The Money Pit. What can we help you with today?
MARY: I’m redoing my basement and I’m wondering about flooring. It has had a rubber-backed carpet, which has been taken up so we’re down to the concrete. And I’m just wondering, what would be a good thing to put back down on the floor there?
TOM: So, rubber-backed carpet was kind of popular at one point in time. But generally speaking, we don’t recommend carpet for basements because they’re so damp. You can build up a lot of debris down there that can cause allergic reactions. You get dust mites and all that sort of thing that will nest in the carpet.
So I would look to a smooth-surface material. So your options might be laminate floor, which is beautiful. It could look like hardwood floor or tile. It’s made of different composite materials. It’s a very, very tough surface. And it floats. It doesn’t – it’s not glued down; it floats on top of the floor. Or you could choose a special type of hardwood floor called “engineered hardwood.”
Now, solid hardwood would not be recommended for a basement because it’s too moist. But engineered is made up of different layers of hardwood. It kind of looks – the guts of it kind of look like plywood but the surface, it looks like a regular hardwood floor. You can’t really tell the difference once it’s down. And I think that would be a good option, as well.
MARY: I really like the carpet down there.
LESLIE: Use area rugs. You’re just going to be sad. It’s just going to cause a lot of problems. It’s going to make you feel yucky. It’s going to feel damp down there.
TOM: And it’s a very dated look today, too. Things have changed in terms of décor. And I think the solid surface of a laminate floor or an engineered-hardwood floor would be much more common today.
MARY: Is there something feasible in a price range, though?
TOM: Yeah. Laminate floor is really affordable. You can get that for as little as maybe four bucks a square foot.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know what? Go online. I’ve seen laminate flooring just south of $2 a square foot. So there’s really some great options that are very affordable out there.
MARY: OK, thank you.
TOM: Well, between sky-high electric bills and expensive heating costs that are going to start to pile up in just a few months, is this the year you’re finally getting ready to replace your leaky or drafty or otherwise inefficient windows? You know, that’s a job that’s best left for a pro but we’ve got a few tips to help make sure that project goes very smoothly, in today’s Pro Project Tip presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Yeah. First of all, I think it’s important to understand the difference between a replacement window and a new-construction window. Now, replacement windows are just that: they’re custom-sized and designed to replace an old window but they fit in the exact same-size opening. Unlike new-construction windows, there’s no need to remove any siding.
TOM: Right. Now, once you determine the pro you’re hiring for the project, it’s important to make sure the pro does the measuring for the new windows. Here’s why. Some folks like doing this themselves but I think it’s a big mistake. All replacement-window manufacturers’ specs for measuring can vary. But most importantly, if the pro measures for the window and it doesn’t fit, guess what? It’s their problem and you’re not going to have to buy an extra window because maybe you made an error in the measurement process.
LESLIE: Now, once your installation day arrives, here’s some things that you can do to help. I know the pros always like it if you’ve thought ahead and maybe get a jump-start on things. So go ahead, remove all those window treatments and clear the window-installation area as much as you possibly can. I’m not saying move a couch if you’re all on your own; they can help you with that. But do what you can to make things accessible for them.
The installation process is pretty simple when it comes to this but it will go much more smoothly if you get that area ready for them.
TOM: Now, lastly, you want to make a rain plan. Have a discussion, because you want to find out what your window installer’s weather policy is and decide together on what the acceptable weather conditions are for your projects.
Now, keep in mind that since replacement windows can be installed just, say, one or two at a time, it’s not like your house is going to be stripped bare and open to all the elements, like Swiss cheese. But you just want to make sure you have the conversation so that you guys know what’s going on and you get a rainstorm, there’s no big surprises.
LESLIE: True. Monsoons? Definitely do not install it.
TOM: Yeah. Bad day.
LESLIE: Bad day.
And that is today’s Pro Project Tip presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your area and compare prices, read verified reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor makes it fast and easy to hire the best local pros.
LESLIE: Eric in Arkansas is on the line and has a problem with smoke damage at his money pit. Tell us what’s going on.
ERIC: Yes, I recently bought a foreclosure that’s got some smoke and fire damage. And I was curious. Is there a product or a special way that the walls need to be treated? Some kind of special primer to cover up the smoke damage to get rid of the smell? Or do I have to gut the whole thing?
TOM: One of the best primers for this particular purpose is made by Zinsser and it’s called B-I-N – B-I-N. And essentially, it’s a synthetic shellac. And what it does is completely seals in the odor that’s kind of soaked into that wall. So if you do a really good job applying this type of a primer, I think that the odor will go away and you’ll have a terrific base upon which to apply your sort of topcoat of color.
ERIC: OK. Now, Zinsser? Is that what it was called?
TOM: Zinsser is the manufacturer. Their product is called B-I-N – B-I-N.
ERIC: OK. Well, thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, do you have a floor that needs painting? Well, the type of paint you select for a floor project is actually quite different than the one you might use for just about everything else. We’ll explain why, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Standing by for your calls, your questions to 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They really have the best local pros for any home service.
LESLIE: Yeah, that’s right. It doesn’t matter what that project is, they make it fast and easy to find top-rated pros.
TOM: And there are no membership fees. It’s 100-percent free to use. HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Alright. While you’re here with us at The Money Pit, we love to jump into our Community section, where people post questions online, and help those guys out.
Josh in Nevada did just that. He writes: “I’m going to paint the wood floor on my screened-in porch. Do you have a recommendation for what type of finish I should use? Also, how many coats should I use? It has no paint on it now, just old wood that I can sand if need be.”
TOM: Yeah. You know, Josh, that’s a great project, especially for this time of year. And for floor paint, I always recommend oil-based or solvent-based finishes, the kind that you need solvents to kind of clean up with after.
And here’s why. I love latex paint for pretty much everything else in the house, inside and out. But when it comes to durability and most importantly, abrasion-resistance – a paint that can really take that furniture being scraped over the floor, for example, as chairs maybe shift under a table or people have a rocker on the front porch and it just puts all of that friction over and over again as you use the rocker – there’s just nothing better than oil-based finish for that.
So I would definitely sand that old wood so you get rid of any of the loose fibers of the wood that are on top. And then I would use a floor finish, a floor paint. Because there is paint made specifically for – but an oil-based floor paint. Give it a couple of coats, make sure it dries thoroughly in between, then you’ll be good to go for a very long time.
LESLIE: I mean I think it’s amazing. There’s even a product called “porch-and-floor paint,” which is definitely made for just that.
LESLIE: So buy the right product for it and you’ll be happy with it.
TOM: And while you’re at it, Leslie, aren’t there some beautiful outdoor rugs now that are available for a porch? It used to just be the fake green grass but now you can get rugs that look like they may have been in a living room, for that porch, and they stand up well to the weather.
LESLIE: There are so many new fibers that are meant to stand up to moisture, sunlight, humidity, all of that and be meant for outdoor usage. And not only just meant for outdoor usage but you can keep them out there. There’s beautiful rugs in amazing patterns that are made from polypropylene. Granted, they feel like a plastic and they look like a plasticky mat but they’re gorgeously made in a ton of fun colors. And then you’ll find a traditional-looking rug or even a sisal that’s just made with a different type of fiber to really withstand outdoor usage.
So, go ahead and up that ante out in your screened-in porch. And get furnishings and fixtures and things that are all made for that outdoor space, to create this sort of extension of what your interior style looks like. That’s the best use of that outdoor space.
LESLIE: Right. Maria writes: “I recently had my hardwood floors redone. The guys I hired apparently slopped varnish up to my white baseboards. I painted one coat over the baseboard but the yellowish-brown stain still shows through. Before I put another coat on, is there something else I should be doing?”
TOM: Yeah. When you get stains that come through successive layers of paint, the solution is very simple: you need to prime it first. You need to add a layer of primer. So, with baseboard, you probably can use a water-based primer for that. But if you don’t put the primer on, those old stains will pull through the new finish quite simply. So just prime those spots where they slopped on the varnish from the floor project and you should be good to go.
LESLIE: And they definitely did slop on that varnish is what it sounds like.
TOM: A little sloppy, yeah.
LESLIE: Good luck, Maria.
TOM: Yeah, it’s a technical term: sloppy.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. We hope that you are enjoying this beautiful summer day. If you’ve been thinking about home improvement projects, didn’t have a chance to reach out to us, remember, you can contact us, 24/7, at 888-MONEY-PIT. Or always post your question online to The Money Pit community. We love to chat with you and help you move those projects forward.
But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
The post Water-Saving Showerheads, Faucets & Toilets that Really Work appeared first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com