TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a announcement, right now, because we are here to help you with your residence improvement and decor assignments. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Whether you’re starting a project, in the middle of a project or precisely don’t know how to get to the end of the project, we’re here to help, 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s appearance, as pathetic as it may be, it’s almost is necessary to put away outdoor furniture for the season. To facilitate make sure it endures the off-season mold-free, we’re going to have some tips on how to best clean and store that furniture so it’s “re ready for” a fresh start come spring.
LESLIE: And if you exactly can’t get the lush, green lawn of your dreams, here’s some good news: grass is not the only option for exiting light-green. We’re going to have some tips for choosing and planting the best alternative groundcover for your outdoor space.
TOM: And have you ever opened an electric bill and been totally shocked? I intend you’re visualizing, “How can this possibly be and where’s all that juice disappearing? ” We’re going to share some tips on a new product that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re using your electricity and how to use a lot less of it.
LESLIE: But first, this show is about helping you with your own home decor and improvement questions. So, call in your dwelling betterment question, right now, and you’ll get the answer. Plus, today you’ll too given the chance at acquiring tools to help you get the job done.
We’re featuring the Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar-Clamp Package worth 80 bucks.
TOM: Those can come in super handy for lots of home improvement projects. So call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Helen in Indiana is on the line with a driveway-sealing question. How can we help you today?
HELEN: I have an asphalt driveway that when I obtained the dwelling had some crannies in it. But it’s gotten worse and I now have a pothole.
TOM: And it’s officially grown to be a pothole, huh?
HELEN: Yeah. That’s what happens in the Midwest.
HELEN: I’ve had some thinks and they’re way out of my plan. So what can I do to prolong the life and make it gaze a little better?
TOM: So, there’s lots of stuff that you can do yourself.
First of all, you are required to patch that hole. And at your neighbourhood home core, you can find blacktop patch. It comes in a bucket- either a small, 1-gallon pail or something even as big as a 5-gallon pail- where it has some stone in it and it has the blacktop textile. And it’s usually latex-based these days, extremely, which is good news.
And you simply clean out the hole that you’re trying to fill, you trowel in the new stuff, you tamp it down. And you can do that with a board or something like that or- if you don’t happen to have a tamping iron.
And then previously you have the holes crowded, then you want to work on the cracks. And as far as the crannies are concerned, the driveway sealers and crack fillers, there are some that came to see you actually caulking-like tubes that you can use to sort of roll into those cracks.
So you seal those all up and then the last thing you do is to apply the asphalt sealer. And that comes in 5-gallon buckets and you buy an application tool for it. It’s kind of like a big squeegee. You start at one end and you squeegee it on, run down towards the other and you’re done.
So it’s totally a do-it-yourself project. The best time to do this is when the brave gets to be around 50 severities or so, on average. You don’t want to do it when it’s very hot out, because it’s a difficult job and …
HELEN: Like now.
TOM: Yeah, like now. And it doesn’t dry that well. So you wait for somewhat cool weather and you can totally reseal that yourself. And then formerly you get all the cracks crowded and the sealer on, then next year perhaps you really do another coat of sealer and it’ll be really easy.
HELEN: So it’s a three-step process.
TOM: Pretty much. Patch the holes, spot the cracks, apply the sealer. That’s it.
HELEN: I think that’s something I can do.
TOM: You can. Good luck with that job. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got Ward from Utica on the line. What’s going on at your money pit?
WARD: Well, I’ve got a roof I’m replacing. The current ceiling has two beds of shingles on it and I want to rip those shingles off and turn in a metal roof.
WARD: However, I got thinking about the underlayment, which I had spray-foamed in the loft about three years ago. And I’m concerned that if I have to repair or pull up the underlayment, I’m going to ruin all my insulation.
TOM: OK. So you have – you did a spray-foam insulation treatment three years ago.
TOM: And the spraying foam was scattered to the underside of the ceiling sheathing. Is that correct?
WARD: That’s right.
TOM: OK. And at that time, did you happen to notice any deteriorated ceiling sheathing? Because you would see it from within of the attic before you’d see it from the outside of the attic. Did you notice anything that was black, rotten, delaminated, hanging down some specks? Anything like that?
WARD: No, no, not really. And I didn’t glance closely myself but the people who did the job did not report anything like that.
TOM: I’d is of the view that the the possibility of you having delaminated sheathing at this stage is probably reasonably small. I do understand your concern that if you attract the shingles off and you find out you have bad sheathing and you have to take it off, you are able to spoil the insulation that’s now sprayed and is stuck to the underside of that.
So, if that was the contingency, I would tell you to resheathe that part of the roof, so whatever half or division or plateau of that ceiling it is. And you could use 1/2-inch sheathing or maybe even 3/8 depending on the condition. But I suppose it’s going to be fine.
And also, once you scattered that spray-foam insulation at the underside of the attic, if they did it right they would have blocked all your ventilates, because it’s no longer necessary to expres an attic that has been closed with spray-foam insulation. Because that attic now becomes a conditioned gap. And therefore, you get a lot less sweat up there.
WARD: Ah, now that’s interesting because I did not know that.
TOM: Yeah. You’re not supposed to have any openings in an attic that has been spray-foamed because that whole range is now, virtually, part of the interior seat of your house.
WARD: Right, right.
TOM: So if you had roof vents or you had ridge vents or gable ducts, they should have been closed up and foamed over.
WARD: I will double-check that but that actually forms the whole thing easier then.
TOM: Yeah, I don’t think you have anything to worry about with the sheathing. And it’s a smart-alecky progress to taken away from both strata and to put on metal roofing, because you’re in Upstate New York. I’m sure you get a ton of snow. And it’s really going to stand up much better.
Make sure they articulated the blizzard sentries, though, at the ceiling advantage because that snow is very heavy where reference is falls off. And you don’t want it to hurt anybody down below.
WARD: Absolutely. I’m planning on doing that.
TOM: Alright, Ward. Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve go Kathy in Minnesota on the line who is doing a kitchen-revamping project. Tell us what’s going on.
KATHY: These cabinets are varnished and they had hinges on that were on the outside, so they’re kind of like the barn-look( ph) hinge and too the manipulates, the ends that were anchored. When we make those off, the grove under there is much, much lighter.
TOM: Right. Mm-hmm.
KATHY: And so we divested the door completely and sanded it to be ready to take on a new stain. And those areas do not absorb the stain.
TOM: Yeah, they are likely have some sort of a sealer or something that got under that. After you sanded it, did you use a sanding sealer on the whole surface?
KATHY: I did not. In my experience, I’d always leant the stain on first and then use a …
TOM: Well, it’s not a sealer at that point; it’s a finish.
But one thing I’m thinking that could have helped, Leslie- and “youre asking me” whatever it is you think- is that if she used a sanding sealer, she may have improved the absorption rate of all the wood so that it was maybe a little evener, a little more attire. So that it would have all soaked in at about the same level.
Can you get any discolour to take in those areas? Even if you make dark stain and settled it on with a small paintbrush? Or will nothing stick to that?
TOM: Well, all I can say is that something is applied there that’s sealing the lumber and unless you can get it to assimilate, it’s going to be a problem. Those old hinges, they didn’t ogle so bad after all, did they?
KATHY: I kind of get that feeling.
TOM: Yeah. Yeah. If you’ve previously sanded it down and you still can’t get the stain to absorb, there’s probably nothing that you’re going to do that’s proceeding to change that.
Listen, the other thing that you could do is paint the doors. I want there’s a lot of decorated cabinets today; they look pretty nice.
KATHY: Yes. Yes. And we’re looking at other options but wanted to be sure that we really had to go that route.
TOM: As long as you sanded it exhaustively and you still can’t get it to absorb, then I say that you’ve done all that you can do at this detail, Kathy.
KATHY: OK. Alright. Well, I acknowledge your do my call.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a summon with your how-to, decoration or remodeling questions, right now, to 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, regional home increase pros for any residence activity. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: Well, it’s approximately time to put away outdoor furniture for the season. To cure make sure it survives that off-season mold-free , we’re going to have tip-off on how to best clean and store it so it’s “re ready for” a fresh start in the spring, when The Money Pit continues.
Making good homes better, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where you can find top-rated residence busines pros and diary appointments online, all for free.
TOM: And if “youre calling” us, right now, at 888 -6 66 -3 974, we’ll toss your list in The Money Pit hard hat, because we’ve got a change of Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar Clamps to give away.
These are super-handy secures. You’ll be able to clamp things with one mitt. Plus, they can be joined together to double the ability for bigger jobs. You’ll get two of the Jorgensen E-Z Hold 24 -Inch Medium-Duty Expandable Bar Clamps for a total value of 80 bucks.
That package is going out to one listener proceeded at random. Make that you. Pick up the phone, call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Jim in California needs help with a decorate job. What can we do for you today?
JIM: I’ve got two floors that I rebuilt nearly three times ago and had never treated them. Did a real nice job: mitered recess, rounded everything, routed everything. And of course , not considering them, they have weathered and I required to clean them.
LESLIE: OK. And so your edition is you’re seeing some wear and tear but the big problem is discoloration?
JIM: Yes. The oxidization.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. So everything examinations a little gray and simply braved?
LESLIE: Now, with the blotch, that’s normal wear and tear of any type of wood surface. And if you were to simply, say, employed a sealer on there, yes, you’re going to protect the wood from any further cracking or checking and you may help it, depending on the genu that “youre using”, from further injury from, say, the sunlight. But if you require the emblazon to be really what you rebuild, you’re going to have to go with a stain that has a color in it.
So depending on the condition of that flooring, you can go with a semi-transparent, which will lodge complexion on but still allow you to see the condition of the wood through it, you are aware, through the stain itself. Or you can go with a solid stain, which gives you a little bit of longer time between having to refinish it, gives you more protection because it is a further saturation of hue and a heavier pigmentation of coloring. So it truly depends on what kind of inspect you want and truly, the condition of the grove itself.
JIM: Yes. Well, my partner wants me to bring the colour back.
TOM: That complexion is long gone, my friend. You can’t delivering it back formerly it grays out like that but you can restore it if you stain it, like Leslie recommended. And you can use semi-transparent or solid color and it will search really gone and you’ll still identify the cereal. So you’re not going to lose the grain of the wood. But once it turns gray like that, you’re not going to be able to restore it unless you sand it and that’s really pretty much a consume of effort.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve get Michelle in Iowa on the line who’s looking to spend some more time outdoors with a attack excavation. How can we help with that programme?
MICHELLE: Well, we started making an outside flaming quarry with fieldstone. And our mortar that we seem to be using, it just seems like it’s sickening dry and it’s like it’s cracking. So, didn’t know if you had a different label that you thought would wreak or any suggestions.
TOM: Well, one tip-off is that if it’s a really warm, baked era when you’re working, you might want to consider putting some plastic over the areas that you’re working on, to slow the vapour rate. Because if it bakes really quickly, sometimes it can flinch and crack.
MICHELLE: And no particular symbol of mortar you think would work best as what the collects recommend for outside hearths?
TOM: Well, QUIKRETE employs extremely well, so you could look to the QUIKRETE brand. And one of the advantages of QUIKRETE is they’ve too got muches and piles and lots of videos online that give you the step-by-step on how to properly mix the product, for example, in this case.
MICHELLE: OK. Thank you.
TOM: Well, as outdoor-living season starts to come to a close, the time has come for your outdoor furniture to go into hibernation. But before you bundle it up, it’s a good intuition to empty it up.
Now, at our residence we to be launched by running any cushions that are machine-washable through the washing machine and then, of course, making them baked really well in the sunshine. And that’s super important, peculiarly if you want to avoid mold.
At the least, you should be able to vacuum any cushions that can’t be run through a washer. I like to use my big-hearted wet/dry, strong shop vacuum for that, because it just does a great job of getting all that dirt and debris and other types of dirt and mold spores that may have been drop from the trees out of those cushions. And then I pack them up in ponderous, pitch-black, plastic bags for storage in the attic.
Worked well, by the way, for a good deal of years except that one year when a squirrel got into the garage attic. So now we set them in the house attic. And so the squirrels will not have to munch on them.
LESLIE: Well, they sounds there was comfy set in the attic.
TOM: That’s right.
LESLIE: Now, for your plastic furniture that comes discoloured and generally nasty-looking, you could actually make a really great cleansing answer yourself. Precisely mix dish soap with Borax and 1/2 -cup peroxide in 1 gallon of liquid. Then use a nylon cover to scrub down furnishings. Make sure you gargle well.
If you’ve got metal furniture, you can use soapy sea and some elbow grease. You can also remove any rust in stains with sandpaper or a cable brush. Then is moving forward and prime and repaint those spots to avoid further rusting.
TOM: And if you’ve went lumber furniture, then bathe it down with an lubricant soap, like a Murphy’s Oil Soap. Let it dry really well. And it’s too a good time to take note of any that might need total refinishing, which is best left for the spring.
888-666-3974. If you’ve got a cleaning or any other type of question about caring for your mansion, give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ron in Florida is on the line with a leaky ocean heater. What’s going on? Tell us how old it is.
RON: Well, the breaker had hurled a couple ages and I turned it back on. And (inaudible) bided when I turned it on. And then I’d gone in, made a nap, came back out. When I did, the entire garage was full of water. I approximate the pressure-relief valve that’s up top was just- it was just spewing out sea extremely, excessively sizzling. Hotter than we’ve ever suffered having our- what I thought it was. It time continues to heat.
And so, at any rate, I turned the breaker off. I ogled in the panel where the thermostats were and the elements and they were just fried; they were burnt. They were burned up. I got a good scare because the insulation was darkened and could have been worse than it was, I suspect, it catching flaming. But I simply wondered what would have performed the hot-water heater do that.
TOM: OK. Well, let’s see. The influence/ temperature relief valve, which is something that that’s called on the side of the spray heater, is set to go off at about 150 pounds of pressure. And theoretically, the way it succeeds is if the liquid heater doesn’t shut off, because there’s something wrong with the dominate tour, it will continue to hot and hot and hot and build up pressure to the point where to prevent the tank from severing, the pressure/ temperature valve will open up.
Now, I will say this: very frequently, those valves neglect and they will open up way before they’re designed to open up. And if that’s the occasion, you only supersede the valve. But it reverberates to me like this thing get so wet that the ocean got to get the elements and that’s what compelled a short, which induced the breaker to trip.
LESLIE: Yeah. But is this associated with an age of a liquid heater or is this just a random, stroke trouble?
TOM: Not really. I’ve seen brand-new influence/ temperature valves that can pop open, as well. And sometimes, you get a little bit of debris that’s stuck under them, very, when you try to close them and that spawns it even worse.
Now, where are we at right now with the ocean heater? You’re still there with it or have you superseded it? What’s your- where are you at with development projects?
RON: Just the- what I was looking at didn’t look like it was even worth prepare with all the- like I said, with all the burned …
TOM: Well, it may not. If it’s more than a few years old and you’ve came that much going on with it, I’d probably change the liquid heater myself.
But what I was going to say, the one thing that you can try- and assuming that the coils were still OK. You mentioned they were burned out. Burned out is- with a coil, it’s kind of hard to do. If they just got wet and short-change, that’s a different situation. You can clean out the contacts and it’ll work. But if the coils were OK, otherwise, what you could do is you open and close the pressure-and-temperature valve several times.
And by the way, there’s supposed to be a discharge pipe on that that stops within 6 inch of the storey. And sometimes, the plumbers don’t set that on. But if you open and close that a cluster of epoches to try to sort of clean out that valve, sometimes it’ll reseat itself. And this is assuming that it didn’t open because there is something electrically mistaken with it. But I would do that.
There’s things that I would check but there’s- these are things you probably couldn’t check. For pattern, I’d check the amperage on the coils to see if they were drawing naturally and things like that that tells me sort of- the circuit is working precisely. So, I guess what we’re coming to here is if you’ve got this much going on with – you’re probably going to have to replace it and you’re going to need a plumber for that, anyway.
But that’s probably whatever happens. It probably begin with the pressure/ temperature valve leaking, that sea get in there and generating a big mess electrically. Because water and electricity do not mix, as you have learned, my friend.
LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime with your question 24 hours per day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Up next, are you having a hard time conserve your garden searching lush, thick-witted and dark-green? Well, you may be able to stop fighting an uphill battle by replacing grass with another similarly dark-green groundcover. We’re going to share those options, next.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
And 888 -MONEY-PIT is submitted by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home assignment before you hire a pro and instant book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
TOM: Call us, right now, with your dwelling increase question at 1-888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Susan in Montana is having some sewage issues such as the driveway. Tell us what’s going on.
SUSAN: I had my agency driveway resurfaced with asphalt. And I thought that the people did a really excellent job until we got a monsoon( ph) rain and all the water was rallying. And I had to leave to go down to Colorado and I got a frantic telephone call from my husband telling me that the spray was backing up into the house and it was like a big pool. And I called the asphalt parties and they’re not responds to me.
TOM: Well, listen, if they are only resurfaced the driveway, they’re not going to do anything to change the pitch.
SUSAN: That’s true-blue. They did make love but they deliberately- presumably, they had the pitch so that it would drain off into the lawn.
TOM: And they didn’t quite get that right. So how do you specify that?
TOM: If the water is draining down the driveway back towards the building- so in other words, it’s never truly draining off to the lawn anywhere- then what you have to do is you have to placed a drapery depletion in the driveway itself.
And in a driveway, basically it’s a responsibility where the driveway is essentially sliced in half. They slice out a hunk of driveway that’s perhaps 6 inches wide. And you drop this trough into it so that as the irrigate falls down the driveway, it removes into the trough- there’s a gradation on top- and then it runs out the bottom of the trough. And of course, that requires some additional plumbing, so to speak, because you have to hook it up to a drainpipe to take it to the lowest place on the asset to be disposed of the sea. But that’s how you drain a driveway that’s not sloped properly.
And typically, that’s put right near the house or right near the garage lip or something like that so that it catches the irrigate at the lowest possible spot.
SUSAN: So who would I call for something like that? A plumber?
TOM: You’re going to need a general contractor that are in a position install that for you. I necessitate a driveway-sealing company is not going to do it. A general contractor that have been able to do that- it’s kind of a handyman project. It’s not a difficult programme, it’s not a really time-consuming project but you essentially have to cut into that driveway and invest a ditch. You’ve got to catch that water and you’ve got to manage it. And that’s the only course to get it on, Susan.
Thanks so much for christen us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Lawns. They are so beautiful when they’re a thick-skulled, lush green but to be maintained that nature is a lot of undertaking. If you’re ready to throw in the towel, take heart because grass is not the only bush that can deliver a luxuriant, light-green review. Now got a few groundcovers that are another good option.
TOM: Now, first off, let’s talk about moss. It’s good for moist and shady grounds that have acidic soil. Now, it doesn’t have any roots, so it’s not a great choice for households with kids or rambunctious dogs, which could potentially entirely obliterate it out if your garden come ponderou foot transaction, unless maybe you’re only putting it in between some stepping stones. Now, it doesn’t need fertilizer, so it really rarely needs to be watered, as well, especially once it gets built. It is, nonetheless, easily squelched, so you’ve got to keep the leaves off of it.
And when it comes to planting, pretty easy. You flora it in the spring, preferably after the trees have leafed out. You pulps clumps of the moss into the surface of moistened grime, you lightly irrigate it for about three weeks and you’re absolutely good to go.
LESLIE: Now, another great option is clover. Now, clover’s a perennial, so it comes back every year, and it’s tough as nails. And it is currently working on grounds that have full sunbathe to part subtlety. Another cool thing about clover is that it makes nitrogen from the air and it stockpiles it into the root nodules, it is therefore actually fertilizes itself.
For maintenance, it needs really an periodic mow and its lily-white buds captivate bees. Or you can plant microclover, which produces smaller flowers that aren’t as enticing to bees. To seed it, it’s actually real easy. You just sow the seeds in the spring and continue moist until they germinate.
TOM: Now, let’s talk about sedges, one of my favorite grass-like plants. They came to see you clumps and they’re perennial. And they can definitely mimic the review of a lawn. You can leave them even unmowed or you could maintain a more formal sound of a lawn but you exclusively “re going to have to” mow them a few times a year.
When it comes to planting, one of the easiest groundcovers to embed. You simply plant the plugs in the spring or the fall or even in the winter if you live in a warm climate. Or you can sow seeds in the spring. Just irrigate them until the embeds are established. Maybe add a top dressing of compost or mulch between the pushes to help maintain that soil moisture until it all develops in neat and thick.
So, if you’re thoroughly does so with the idea of having to keep up with the needs of grass, groundcovers do furnish a very solid alternative that can have your lawn see just as green.
LESLIE: Richard in Kansas, you’ve went The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RICHARD: I’m interested- I have an older home I remodeled. It’s built in the 30 s and I wanted to throw in a whole-house water-filtration method. And I was going to connect right to the service line going in.
And I’ve been browse around. I detected the small canister kinds and then it time hops up to a big, 33 -gallon, barrel-type filtration, which is too much. And I merely wanted to know what a good label is and what I need- reverse-osmosis and all that.
TOM: You know, Richard, 3M forms the Filtrete line. That’s F-i-l-t-r-e-t-e. And they have single filters for give under maybe your kitchen sag or shower but they also have a whole-house system. It’s not seriously expensive; I think it’s under 100 bucks. And installation is pretty straightforward, so perhaps you could even get it on yourself. And they also have various levels of filtration.
So I would take a look at the Filtrete Whole-House System Water Filters and I think that’s a good option to make sure your water is tasting good throughout the entire home.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for summon The Money Pit.
You can call in your dwelling fixing or your dwelling better question anytime 24 hours a day, 7 days a few weeks right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Hey, have you ever opened up that electric bill and wondered where all your electricity is going? Well, there’s a new product on the market that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re using your electricity and how you can use less of it. We’re going to tell you all about it, next.
TOM: Where home answers live, to be welcomed to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on on this beautiful September weekend? If it’s your residence, you’re in the right place, because we have got some implements to give away that can help you with some of those projects. If you call us, right now, at 888 -MONEY-PIT we will toss your name in The Money Pit hard hat for a provide of Jorgensen E-Z Hold Expandable Bar Clamps.
Very, terribly helpful clamps because you can use them with one handwriting, which ever is nice when I’m working on a project, because I tend to run out of paws a lot.
LESLIE: It’s true.
TOM: Plus, they can be joined together to double the capacity if you’ve got a bigger project.
We’re giving away a fixed of two. They have a total value of 80 horses and going out to one listener sucked at random. If you want to procreate that you, pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Esther in South Dakota on the line with a shed that is scorching. Tell us what’s going on.
ESTHER: It is really hot today. We’ve had temperatures outside of up to 102, so it- we just moved here, so right now it just has the sleighs and the bicycles and the stuff stashed in it. But I was intended to put my potting shelf out there.
TOM: Esther, what you’re looking for, for this roof, is something called a ”reflective roof coating.” It’s mostly paint that’s designed for a metal roof, that is further designed to reflect the heat that your shed is gaining back out.
The problem is that these products are typically only designed for business structures. So, you’re going to have to do a little of work to find it; it’s not like you’re going to be able to run down to the equipment accumulation and select this up. But they do exist and I’m hoping that you can buy it in a gallon container, as opposed to 5 gallons or more. Because, again, they’re typically used on a business basis for much bigger roofs.
One company that prepares them is called Sealoflex- S-e-a-l-o-f-l-e-x- and they have a reflective varnish called ReflectoWhite that is a particularly reflective coating for all sorts of ceiling surfaces. But it’s important that you get one that’s specifically designed for roofs; otherwise, it’s not going to stick. OK?
ESTHER: I understand.
TOM: Alright. Well, good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, have you ever opened your electric bill and wondered where all that electricity is going? Now there’s a new product to the market that can help you figure out a lot about how you’re using your electricity and how you can use less of it.
TOM: Well, that’s right. It’s called the Sense Home Energy Monitor. And I actually really lay one in my house. And you can see how it works at GetSense.com.
But it’s pretty amazing. It cultivates kind of like a fitness tracker for your home, Leslie. So it tells you what’s on, what’s off and how much vitality it’s exerting. So you can save money and determine your dwelling a bit more sustainable.
Now, the way it installs is directly to your primary electrical body. And formerly it’s there, it monitors your home’s electrical be utilized in real experience. It’s got an app that lets you see what’s on and what’s off and how much exertion everything is using up and how much it expenditure daily, weekly and monthly. You’ll even be able to spot energy guzzlers before they show up in the form of a huge electric bill, which can be super helpful.
LESLIE: Now, Sense also is contributing to look after your family by tracking your home’s activity and invention use.
For example, within the Sense app, you can see if you turned off the clothing dryer before leaving the house. And you can adjusted alerts to tell you if you’ve left the coffee maker on.
Now, Sense can also help you avoided problems by name singular the actions of your home, all in real duration and before it becomes an issue. Because it can look for uncommon motifs, like a refrigerator that’s running perpetually because its filter is choked or a sump spout that’s running more than usual, because perhaps the sea heater break-dance and your basement is submerge and you’re on vacation.
TOM: Yeah. It’s actually an incredibly helpful and very smart device that can save you fund and induce your home more efficient and sustainable. So have a look. It’s at GetSense.com. There’s a cool video there that paths you through. That’s GetSense.com. I guarantee you once you see it, you’re going to want one for your house.
LESLIE: John in Delaware is dealing with a spider problem. I can’t even talk about it for horror they will jump into my house. What’s going on?
JOHN: I moved to the beach about 10 years ago. I’m not- I’m 12 miles from the sea but I don’t know whether that’s part of the problem or not. But we have spiders inside the house all the time. They’re ever in the angles of the area. It’s rare to come into any chamber and not have one. And it seems like as quickly as you be disposed of them, a week later you have more in the same ranges. And it is very annoying.
TOM: What do you do to get rid of them, John?
JOHN: The simply thing I do is I try to kill them and knock down their little web.
TOM: Good luck with that. That’s not working out too well for you, I pot, huh?
JOHN: No, it’s not.
TOM: You’re not going to make the fighting if that’s your management approaching. The thing about insects today is the best way to control them is through science. And if you look at a company like Orkin – you are aware, a company that’s been around forever- these guys know exactly what insecticide to put down, they know how to articulated it down in the right amounts and the products that they use today are very insect-specific.
It applied to be that there was sort of a broad-spectrum pesticide that was put down. Today, the pesticides are very, very specific for the problem. And if I was dealing with this in my home, I wouldn’t be running around with my boot trying to kill them all. I would have the pesticide applied in the right amounts, right place and be done with it.
So, I would recommend that you call Orkin and have that taken care of the right way. It’s safer to do that than to buy over-the-counter pesticides, which you end up over-applying- which are far more dangerous, in my opinion- and certainly a good deal less annoying than having to stomp them to demise, OK?
So, I would exploit a pesticide to restrict these spiders and that’s very best solution.
JOHN: OK. And you would not advise trying to do it on your own. You’d advise getting a busines that’s- would they regularly- to have them come back?
TOM: Yeah, you can’t buy the products that a professional can buy. They’re not available to the public because they have to be applied just right. That’s why it’s a good theory to turn to a pro, like Orkin.
John, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: 888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home projection before you hire a pro. And instantly volume one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
Hey, are you tired of waiting for hot water to reach your shower in the morning? We’re going to highlight an easy-to-install solution, next.
TOM: Fixing good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Hey, what are you working on? If it’s your residence, you are in the right place. Give us a scold, right now, because we’d love to give you some tips-off, some admonition to help you get those projects done a lot easier. That list is 888 -6 66 -3 974. Or you can post your question to Money Pit’s Facebook sheet at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit. That’s what Randy did.
LESLIE: That’s right. Randy writes: “My lavatory is some distance from the ocean heater and it takes a got a couple of minutes for the liquid to get hot. I’m considering adding a hot-water lobster invention, which is supposed to give me an instant hot water. Will it work?”
TOM: So, I was not very well known the design and I did a little bit of research on it. And it struck me that it’s very, very similar to a device I am familiar with that is called the Watts Hot-Water Recirculating System- Watts is the brand name; W-a-t-t-s- with one key gap and that is that the hot-water lobster does not have a circulating pump that will move the liquid through the plumbing cables. And therefore, it kind of seems to rely on the cheerfulnes of heated versus cold water to move that hot water towards your lavatory that’s the- it’s the farthest, mostly, away from the spray heater.
The way these things work is there’s a crossover hose and valve that gone on the liquid- generally the subside- that’s the outermost plumbing fixture away from the liquid heater. And it essentially spills a little bit of hot water back into the cold slope. It virtually will help mix that hot water in quicker.
And with the Watts division, it labor on that recirculating spout, which is able to mounted a timer for. So I just feel like that’s probably a more reliable way to go, because this way it are now working exactly when you want it to work. And it’s not going to run 24/7 and trash a slew of energy. You could mount it for those couple of hours in the morning when you’re waking up and just tired of stepping into that really freezing-cold shower.
So, I’m not familiar with the device you were asking about but I am familiar with Watts. It’s reasonably inexpensive; it’s under a duet hundred bucks. And if you are pretty handy, with some basic DIY talents, you can probably even install it yourself.
So, hope that helps you out, Randy.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, “weve had” a pole from Jenna in Virginia who writes: “I’m about to get my husband a large, flat-screen TV. My question is whether any wall can hold that wall mount. Do I need any special equipment to make sure it’s not going to fall? ”
TOM: What a great wife, huh? She wants to get him a large, flat-screen TV. She might never accompany him again.
Well, listen, Jenna, the key with these flat screens is that there’s a bracket that usually is sold separately from the flat screen. It has to be properly installed. And they’re all same but except in accordance with procedures that they tilt or move that flat screen. Some will tilt one tack, some will tilt in two directions and so on. But when you get that bracket, you’ve got to follow the instructions about lay it. And it usually comes with all the hardware you need.
And very important, though, is that the bracket has to be installed into the wall studs. So that’s was just going to require a little carpentry skill to identify but those brackets are certainly wide enough to captivate two of the horizontal studs with two fixings each. And that should be plenty of power- batch of propping ability- for that large-screen TV.
Interestingly, those large-screen TVs are not as heavy as you might think. And those brackets do require enough protection for you to go ahead and attach to the wall. But again, it’s got to be attached to the studs.
So, I’m pretty sure it can get done in your residence, perception unseen, as long as it’s a regular, standard wood-frame wall. But it’s got to be done right. Otherwise, that’s not going to end up well.
LESLIE: And make sure you pick the right bracket. It’s got to be sized for the TV itself. And it’s get so many different functionalities. Make sure it does the things that you want it to do. Do you want the forearm to spread so you can tilt it and look in another room? Do you only want top or bottom, top-down swizzle? There’s a whole cluster of different things. So, look into it before you purchase one and introduced it up.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on breath and online at MoneyPit.com. Hey, thank you so much for spending this part of your epoch with us. If you’ve get questions, you can send them in, 24/7, to 888 -MONEY-PIT by announce us. Or announce them to The Money Pit’s Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.
Until then, I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t “re going to have to” do it alone.
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