Fence Building Tips to Step Up Curb Appeal

TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Give us a entitle, right now, because we are here to help you take on your residence improvement job. What are you working on? What do you want to work on? Is there something you want to get done this weekend? Maybe rectified yourself up for general holidays ahead? Maybe plan some interior betters so that you’re not staring at those plain, old-time walls for another few months of chilly weather? Whatever is on your to-do list, move it over to ours by announcing us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.

Coming up on today’s evidence, as sunlight saving day goes to a close, it’s a good time to go beyond resetting the clocks and get ready for winter. We’re going to explain what else you ought to be changing, in precisely a bit.

LESLIE: And likewise onward, it’s one of the biggest frights a homeowner faces: the telltale ceiling discolours that let you know that you’ve got a leak somewhere. But the maneuver is determining where that hole is coming from so that you can actually deal with it. We’re going to explain the most common causes and the easiest way to stop those leaks.

TOM: And construct a fence is a great way to improve your home’s curb appeal, home value and keep out the wildlife. You know, in my part of the country, it is deer-mating season and they are going nuts. They are running into fences, running through barricades, running over fences, so ...

LESLIE: Did you be informed about the deer that ran into the hair salon here in New York, in Long Island?

TOM: Oh, no. Is that title?

LESLIE: Oh, my goodness.

TOM: But I is certainly not stunned in the least. Yep.

LESLIE: They’re everywhere.

TOM: Well, it’s a big project doing a fencing but it is one you can do yourself, so we’re going to have the tips-off that you need to get started.

LESLIE: Maybe employ a barrier around that hair salon.

TOM: Maybe.

LESLIE: Plus, guys, utter us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. You’re going to get the answer to your dwelling increase or your decoration questions and a chance at acquiring a stupendous place of products to help keep your home clean and green.

TOM: That’s privilege. We’ve got the JAWS Ultimate Cleaning Kit going out to one caller drawn at random. It includes a full range of cleaning produces for every hard surface in your home. It’s worth 44 bucks. It’s going to go out to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. Pick up the telephone, give us a call right now. We’d love to hear what you’re "workin on". The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Tommy in Nebraska, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?

TOMMY: My question concerns my dryer. I moved into a room that had the washer and dryer already here in my laundry room. And when I was cleaning back behind the dryer- the dryer hose is aluminum type and it’s affixed with strip. Undoubtedly , not done correctly. And what I want to know is what would you recommend? Is there a better dryer-vent hose or a tube of some kind? It’s a moderately short length from the wall to the dryer.

TOM: If it’s the flexible aluminum hose, then that- I is very likely is moving forward and made that back in. If it’s vinyl, I would not. But you’re sure it’s aluminum, right?

TOMMY: It is. It’s like glistening aluminum foil.

LESLIE: Yeah. And that’s the one that you want there, because that’s heat-resistant.

TOMMY: Oh, you do. OK.

LESLIE: Yes.

TOMMY: Rather than the white vinyl? It’s better than the grey vinyl.

LESLIE: Right. Because the white vinyl could overheat and potentially generate a ardour hazard. So the aluminum one is great because it won’t hold onto all of that heat.

Now, the issues is, where does your dryer hose volcano to? Does it go to the outside? Has it been emptied in a while? These are all maintenance things that you need to be doing for your dryer.

TOMMY: Right, Leslie. And that’s what I is ready to do, because I am so afraid of fire lucks. OK, so I need to detach it? And it is vented to an outside vent.

TOM: So what is necessary do is get a dryer-vent cleaning brush. There is one that’s available online called the Gardus LintEater. Leslie and I both have one of these touches. They’re really cool. They’re like grazes on the end of fiberglass rods. And you fasten them into a teach and simply spin them into the vent-hole and go back and forth and pull them out.

TOMMY: Oh, my goodness.

TOM: And you’d be amazed how much dirt comes out of those things. So that’s one- I’m sure you could probably find it at a dwelling centre or at a hardware accumulation, as well. But a dryer-duct cleanup touch is what you really be required for that.

TOMMY: OK. And then when I reattach that hose to the vent and then to the dryer, clearly I don’t want to use strip, which is what they’ve used.

TOM: There’s a big bracket that is sort of like a clamp that fits around that. And it becomes over the hose and the hose departs over the vent-hole and then it all sort of bolt together. And I’m sure you could also learn those at a residence core or a equipment store. No, you are able to definitely not strip it together.

TOMMY: I will do that. Thank you so much. I appreciate it.

TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Now we’ve come Brian in Texas who has an air-conditioning question. And in Texas, you probably need that. What’s going on, Brian?

BRIAN: I’m actually looking at acquiring a residence. It was building up 1914. It’s on the historical list and I’ve previously come permission to do pretty much whatever I need to to it. But I was trying to find out what would be more efficient: either air-conditioning forces in the walls or would it be better to going to open up the walls and put in central air?

TOM: Well, from an efficiency position, certainly central air conditioning is going to be a lot more efficient than a assortment of space units.

Now, when you have a historical dwelling, though, it becomes a little more tricky about how "youre running" the passages. There is a type of system, though, that’s called a “high-velocity system”- low-volume, high-velocity system- and this uses passages that are about the same diameter as a dryer show, around 3 inches or so. And they can run inside wall cavities without involving the eradication of crying the wall apart.

So if you hook up with a good HVAC contractor and go through your alternatives, "youre supposed" able to figure out a lane to get a central air-conditioning arrangement in this home with the least extent of disorder and demolition possible.

BRIAN: Actually, it’s got the original plaster walls and I genuinely would dislike to lose those.

LESLIE: Now, I don’t think you have to. If it’s done correctly and if it’s done creatively, the authorities have ways to work with what you have.

BRIAN: OK. Well, I certainly do appreciate it. I precisely- I genuinely didn’t know what would be the best way to go with it. This is my first time dealing with anything historical. I’ve had other small projects but this I’ve been real hesitating on. I’ve listened to you guys’ show for a while and I really, actually do appreciate your advice. And I precisely- I want to say, “Thank you.”

TOM: Well, you’re very welcome, Brian. So I think you can do this project. Keep in mind that if it becomes more complicated to run the passages, that could run the costs up. So get some forecasts so you know what you’re getting involved with. And whatever you do, make sure you get a professional home inspection of this room done before you buy it. A good home inspector would be permitted to screen out any major troubles before you sign on the dotted line, OK?

BRIAN: Most well. I do appreciate it. Thank you.

LESLIE: Tracy in New York is on the line with a channel question. How can we help you with this project?

TRACY: I’m thinking about coming sewer put on my house but I’m not sure what I need to know and what I should expect when I have the contractors come over to do the quote.

TOM: Alright. So you have no gutters right now?

TRACY: That’s correct.

TOM: OK. So, here’s a duet things to think about. First of all, what you want are seamless ditches. So the way they’re impelled is the contractors come out and the trough cloth is actually in a membrane capital and it’s on a roll of metal. And they run it through a forming machine that actually establishes the form of the channel. And this lane, they can constitute the gutters the exact length that you need for the different sections of your house.

Now, the number of gushes that you put into the gutter is important, because you don’t have - you want to have less than 600 to 800 square hoofs of ceiling skin-deep per spout or the ditches will back up and get overwhelmed. So pay attention to that.

Also, think about where the downspouts come down. You don’t demand them dropping water right at the reces of the foundation, because that will collect there and it can soak in. It can weaken the foundation; it can flood a cellar or a crawlspace. Just generally a bad hypothesi. So you miss the downspout to extend at least 3 to 4 feet away from the foundation. If you had a water problem, I’d tell you to take it out further but if you don’t have a problem, at least 3 to 4 paws out.

So, if you have one downspout and you have a- if you have one section of gutter and you have a select as to whether the downspout is on the left than the liberty, use our heading about thinking about that. Yeah, don’t bring it out near a walkway or something like that; introduce it out in the opposite side of the house.

Now, the second thing to think about is gutter sentries: whether the government has you want to settled them in or not. Because "when youve got" channels, you’re going to get the need to clean those channels. And the authorities have such a wide variety of gutter wards that are available today.

The kind that seem, in my experience, to work the best are those that work on surface tension. So these have kind of a terminated envelop to them and the needles will soak over them and the water hangs this comprise or perhaps goes through some louvered slits and descents into the trough. So, "ve been thinking about" that. Check out with the company whether or not they render a gutter-guard option at the time of the installation. And this method, you can get it sort of all done at the same time.

And then one other trick of the trade is that before you fix these to the house, do you know if the fascia is lumber, right now, or is it aluminum? What are you going to be attaching it to?

TRACY: Wood, I believe.

TOM: So this is the perfect go for you to draw it. This is your one and only golden opportunity to threw a got a couple of good coatings of exterior make-up on that. Because formerly that gutter is attached, you are never ever going to take them off or at least not for a heck of a very long time. So, get a couple of good coats of cover on that fascia now, before you framed the gutter on, so that it’s protected.

TRACY: OK. That’s great. Thank you so much better for your help.

TOM: You’re welcome. Good fortune with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: You are chanted to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated home improvement pros for any home project. Go to HomeAdvisor.com.

TOM: Well, exactly onward, this weekend we get to set our clocks back 1 hour. But it’s also a good time for some key home security checks. We’ll have those, after this.

Where home mixtures live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

Give us a call right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You knows where to find top-rated dwelling service pros and journal appointments online, all for free.

TOM: Hey, if you pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, we’ll give you the responses to your home better question and likewise, an opportunity at winning a great prize. We’ve got the JAWS Ultimate Cleaning Kit.

Now, JAWS is a cool product. It stands for the Just Add Water System. And the government has a concentrated, streak-free, eco-friendly cleaning product for every job, every room, every crevice and every chink in your room. Now, all the cleaning makes are concentrated, so you only implant a refill cod into the extremely sturdy Mouths reusable bottles and sprayers and you are good to go in seconds.

I love the facts of the case that all the products are non-toxic. The pack comprising two refill pods for each JAWS product. You get the Glass Cleaner, the Daily Shower Cleaner, the Kitchen Degreaser, the Floor Cleaner, the Granite and Natural Stone Cleaner and the JAWS Disinfectant Cleaner. And if you’d are happy to pick one up for yourself, you can go to JAWSCleans.com and use the promo system MONEYPIT for a 25 -percent discount at every purchase. That’s promo code MONEYPIT. Rethink the channel you cleanse with JAWS, the Just Add Water System.

LESLIE: Charles in Pennsylvania is dealing with a mysterious hole. Tell us about it.

CHARLES: Well, I have a- it’s the section of the house that- in front of the one wall is the garage and behind it is the wall to the house. It’s a family room. And one side, going towards the garage, was having seeping spray coming in. I believe it was the ceiling but I had the roofer who only employed the roof on about 18 months back come check it. He can’t find anything wrong with it. It stopped; it hasn’t done it for a while.

But I noticed that as I went into the garage the other day, I insured that some of the drywall has started to turn black so, certainly, the inside of the drywall, there’s mold. And I’m trying to figure out where it’s coming from, number one, so I can set it and number two, of course I’ve got to fix the issue with the mold. Any sentiments about where that might be coming from? It’s over the garage for the- the garage roof.

TOM: And is it near where the garage roof meets with anything else? Is it intersecting with the house?

CHARLES: Well, it- the garage roof reports this whole section that- I’m actually sitting in that area right now. And then it goes out and connects with a sun-porch arena in the back. But it wasn’t coming from that back; it was coming from within wall, which seemed weird.

TOM: Well, here’s the thing: you may be getting a divulge that’s generated really by flood that blows in with some gale influence behind it, sort of a directional leak. A roofer looking at this- and of course, you’re asking him to figure out what’s wrong with your roof and of course, he knows darn well that he gave the ceiling on and he’s not going to be willing to admit terribly quickly that there’s anything wrong. But the truth is you may have a leak that’s caused by driving torrent and that’s why it may not happen all the time.

It’s pretty common, actually. It frequently is the case in an intersection point , not in the middle of the shingle. Often at a target where it meets with something else.

LESLIE: When you’ve get wind-driven rain and your breeze is hoisting up a shingle and the rain is falling horizontally because of the wind and coming up and under.

CHARLES: Yeah. We had never had this difficulty- like I said, the roof is new and- it’s relatively new. About 18 months aged. And until about three months ago, about 15 month of it, there had never been even a inhale of a leak.

TOM: But roofs are always expanding and contracting and they can develop these types of leaks. One mode to try to diagnose it, if you don’t see anything that’s visually wrong, is to go up there with a hose and start low-spirited and lope the water down the roof, again, towards the low-pitched feature and then bring it up higher.

CHARLES: The hose? Mm-hmm.

TOM: And see if you can actually physically make it leak.

CHARLES: Yeah, yeah. I insure what ...

TOM: And that will kind of show you the general area. But if you find it, then whatever it is you have to do is take the shingles apart there and reroof that particular spot.

CHARLES: Yeah.

TOM: Now, in terms of the area of the wall where you’re seeing these black stains, that may or may not be mold. I intend when drywall gets dry, it does tend to turn dark and it may not be dark with mold. But what I would do is I would primary it with an oil-based primer. And so I would primary the surface and then place a top coat of dye on it. If you only paint it, the stain will come back through; you must prime it first.

CHARLES: Well, I’ll give that a shot. I’ll throw that a shot. Alright. I expressed appreciation for very much.

TOM: Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Well, this is the weekend when we all gain that extra hour by setting our clocks back. But before you be established in for that long winter’s nap, make a few other informs around your house.

TOM: Well, that’s right. It’s also the excellent time for smoke-detector maintenance: change the artilleries and evaluation for operation.

Now, if you’d like to replace your smoke detector, if it’s more than five years old, that’s a great idea. Pick up the type that are called “dual sensors.” These work for the slow, smoldering shoots, as well as the twinkle, flaming the different types of fires. And this mode, you’re covered in any event.

LESLIE: You too want to check your carbon-monoxide detectors. And if you don’t already have them, make sure you supplement at least one near the bedrooms.

Now, some heat informants and faulty gizmoes can produce this silent killer and threaten your family’s safety.

TOM: And what’s more, if a carbon-monoxide detector sounds an alarm, don’t ignore it and don’t disable it. Detectors make off for a reasonablenes and you need to immediately open the windows, expel your family and call a pro to find the source of the problem. It’s amazing how many times we heard of tribes who the hell is nauseated by exhaust fumes because they didn’t smell it. Well, it had not yet been reeked. It’s not like a smoke detector. It’s got no smell. So if it "re going away", trust it and get out.

LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve came Karen in Tennessee who’s is there a problem with a bathroom entrance. Tell us what’s going on.

KAREN: The door fell down when we were putting the washer and dryer and it came on the knob. It fell off. The hole is space oversized. I situated a dowel in there, glued it, drilled a new flaw but that didn’t last very long, either. How can I make do or how can I frame a knob on that opening without to purchase a new bi-fold?

TOM: OK. So the hole through which you appended the grip for the bi-fold door is oversized, correct?

KAREN: Right. Both clamps are oversized.

TOM: Alright. So, in other words, it’s bigger than the jailer itself, compensate?

KAREN: Yeah. Yes.

TOM: So, here’s what I would do. I would turn a negative into a positive. Why not- now, is it- it’s not bigger than the handle, right?

KAREN: No , no , no , no , no.

TOM: Alright. So, why not only introduced a washer on the back of it? On the back of the bolt. You’re not go to the back of the door, so really settled a washer through the nail and then situated the bolt in the hole and fix it to the handle. You’re done.

LESLIE: This road, it’ll pull it flush.

KAREN: OK. In other words, kept an oversized screw in it that goes all the way through the door.

TOM: Yeah , not an oversized- well, it would go all the course- yes, it would go all the way through the door but ...

KAREN: Well, it’d be longer.

TOM: Well, you don’t need it to be that much longer. A washer is 1/16 -inch thick-skulled or less.

KAREN: No. The pin would have to be longer to go through- and teach a pit on the other side, because it’s a cavern door.

TOM: OK. But does the fucking go through now? Commonly, when you fasten a handle, it goes all the way through. Is that not the case?

KAREN: It’s just one of those- it doesn’t even turn. It’s just a right handle/ left handle category grip that you pull on it to open up the bi-fold.

TOM: OK. So it’s simply basically bolt right into the door- the face of the door- and it’s pulling out, correct?

KAREN: Yes, yes.

TOM: So, yeah. So then why- instead of using a timber fucking to attach it, why don’t you use a machine nail and then introduced a small nut and washer on the back of it and teach all the way through the door? So measure the thickness of the door, heading over to your local hardware accumulate and have them "ve been looking for" a fuck that’s long enough, with a nut and the washer on the back of it. You won’t view the nut and the washer, because it’s on the inside of the door. Just don’t make it any longer than it has to be.

KAREN: Exactly. Fantastic. Why didn’t I be taken into consideration that?

TOM: And that’ll solve it. Alright?

KAREN: OK. I went to all that trouble to place a dowel- oversized the hole, positioned a dowel in there, cement, redrill.

TOM: Well, you know what? You get an A for effort.

KAREN: And it came out again.

TOM: Yeah. Alright. Well, this will solve it. Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: You are sung to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a summon with your residence repair or your dwelling better, designing, decor, holiday festival, whatever it is that you are working on at your fund oppose. We’re here to lend a hand 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

Well, the only thing tougher than cleaning up after a leak is figuring out where it made its route in in the first place. We’re going to explain the most common causes that you haven’t thought of yet, after this.

TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT. We’re here, standing by, to assist you with all of your dwelling betterment questions. And 888 -MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your dwelling assignment before you hire a pro and instantaneously journal one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.

TOM: That number, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Now we’re taking a call from Alberta in Arkansas working on a window project. How can we help you with that?

ALBERTA: Yeah, I’ve got vinyl openings that are the drop-downs so you can clean them and they’re real stiff; they’re hard to open and close. I was wondering if there’s anything I can do to move them easier.

TOM: Have you tried to use any lithium grease on them?

ALBERTA: I haven’t exercised anything, no.

TOM: So what you might wishing to is- there are different types of lubricants that are available. You know, WD-40 probably is something of the most famous ones.

ALBERTA: Yeah.

TOM: But you can also buy, in a spray can, lithium and it has a tube that comes out of the top of the spray nozzle. You can get it right into the area along the jambs, between the operating sash and the jamb of the window, and kind of spray it up and down. If you overspray a little, you can go wipe it down. And that will lubricate that jamb and increase the friction.

ALBERTA: Is the lithium better than the WD-4 0?

TOM: It tends to stick around a little bit longer. It’s a little thicker.

ALBERTA: OK.

TOM: In a pinch, you can use WD but you may have to make love again.

ALBERTA: Alright. Well, thank you very much.

TOM: Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for yell us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Well, it’s one of the biggest fears a homeowner faces: the unmistakable ceiling blot that let you know you’ve got a leak somewhere. It’s very common when you’ve got vinyl surfacing. Now, the gimmick is determining where exactly that seep is coming from.

First of all, let’s talk about why vinyl siding is so leaky. It’s actually not a watertight report. The cloth is going to expand and contract and wind-driven ocean can be forced into these divergences around the unsealed openings and the door shave, as well as into the overlapping terminates of those siding parts. So you’ve got a lot of places that water could get in.

TOM: Yeah. But before we condemn the placing, though, we need to rule out the other probable sources.

First of all, let’s talk about plumbing spills. If there’s a plumbing source above the leak, like a lavatory or a laundry room, you’ve got to consider it. You’re going to want to check the flooring in that room, as well as any fixtures, to see if there’s an active leak.

Also, "ve been thinking about" windows. You want to check any windows on the floor above. Take a look at the timber that’s around that space sill, including with regard to. Because a great deal of period, ocean will get in there sometimes. The lament gaps are clogged in the storm windows and then that will leak down through the wall and be brought to an end, say, on the ceiling of the floor below.

And finally, of course, roof seeps. That would be the most common if the water marks are on the ceiling on a second floor. And they often happen where things come through the roofs- like tubes over bathrooms, for example- or where roofs intersect, like a hollow where two slants of a roof grouped together. So you’ve got to pretty much check those first.

LESLIE: Now, immediately you’ve ruled out all of those likelihoods, there really is only one remaining culprit and that’s a leakage in your home’s vinyl siding.

Now, most of the time, you’re going to be finding these leakages around windows and doors. So, you want to use a caulking artillery to apply a ongoing necklace of silicone sealant along those vertical seams between the vinyl J-channels and those exterior window casings.

Now, a tripolymer silicone sealant is probably going to be your best choice. It’s flexible and it will cling very well. So what you do is you make that tube and you cut the tip-off to a 45 -degree angle and "youre using" a caulking artillery. You was intended to fill any divergences. Force that silicone sealant behind the J-channel but don’t caulk along the bottom of the window, where those weep excavations are there. They’re symbolized to be there for drainage, so don’t seal those in.

TOM: Now, if you really want to try to nail this down further, another thing that you could do to try to find out precisely, say, what place of the window or seam that the seep is happening, you can use a hose. But you’ve got to be careful what area of the house you’re getting rain. So I would make the spray head off the hose, because you want to be pretty soothing where it comes out. And then, basically, run water down the siding and watch and see if you can kind of prepare it leak.

Sooner or last-minute, it’s going to become really obvious and now you’ve got a few alternatives as to what to check and how to fix it "when youre doing", eventually, find it.

LESLIE: James in Ohio is on the line with a heating question. What can we do for you today?

JAMES: Yeah, hi. I was calling in- I have an older home. It’s built in 1968. And I was wondering if it’d be easier to install an electric furnace, instead of having the baseboard hot, or maybe going a- one of the outdoor contingents that attach high on your wall.

TOM: Do you have natural gas or propane or petroleum in your place?

JAMES: Maybe natural gas?

TOM: Yeah, that would be the way to go. If you’re going through the perturb of putting a furnace in, I would definitely not put in an electric furnace because that is the most expensive direction to provide heat to your room. I would suggest a high-efficiency, natural-gas furnace. The installation expenditure is going to be similar if you’re putting a brand-new furnace in but the ongoing cost to run it will be a lot lower.

JAMES: Will I incur more payment because- for the ductwork? Because I have plaster walls instead of drywall.

TOM: Well, if you’re going to gave an electric furnace in, you’re going to have to do the ductwork regardles. So, the ductwork is there whether or not you use an electric furnace or a gas furnace. And it depends on how innovative your HVAC contractor is but that’s a fixed costs. If you’re going through the agitate of ducting out your room, which is going to add to its ethic, I certainly would recommend gas.

And typically, the gas corporations don’t charge to bring gas up to your live, so they’ll fetch the line up and introduced a meter in because now you’re going to be their purchaser forever and they’re very happy about that.

JAMES: OK. Well, I thank you very much.

TOM: You’re welcome, James. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Give us a scold with your dwelling fixing or your residence better question 24 hours a daylight, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

Well, building a barricade is a great way to improve your home’s curb appeal, your dwelling value, even keep out the wildlife. It’s a big project but it’s surely one that you can do yourself. We’re going to have tips to help you get started, in today’s Better Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz.

TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro and instant book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.

TOM: And if you pick up the phone and call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, we’ll toss your word in The Money Pit hard hat because we’re giving away the JAWS Ultimate Cleaning Kit.

JAWS, the Just Add Water System, has a centred, streak-free, eco-friendly cleaning product for every job, every chamber, every nook and every hole in your house.

LESLIE: Yeah. The best part here, guys, is everything of the cleansing concoctions come concentrated. You precisely implant a refill cod into the sturdy JAWS reusable bottles and sprayers and you’re ready to go in seconds. You cannot mess up this mix, guys. Plus, think of all the storage space you’re going to save. Plus, think of all the plastics you’re going to keep from get out into the Earth’s ecosystem. Everybody has got to do their part and this really is a great way to do so.

Now, the kit includes two refill cod for each of the JAWS product line, including the Glass Cleaner, Daily Shower Cleaner, Kitchen Degreaser, Floor Cleaner, Granite and Natural Stone Cleaner. There’s a lot of different produces, so you’re really going to have the right one of the human rights job.

The Ultimate Cleaning Kit retails for 44.99 but right now, Money Pit listeners can save 25 percent on every purchase at JAWSCleans.com. Just use the promo code MONEYPIT at checkout. That’s JAWSCleans.com.

TOM: Rethink the highway you cleanse with JAWS, the Just Add Water System.

LESLIE: Pam in Florida has a porch question. How can we help you today?

PAM: We live on the water and in Florida, there’s a lot of breath on the water. We’re close to the Gulf of Mexico. And we have a screened hall with aluminum railings and high winds keeps blowing the screen divisions out. We’ve tried all different types of screens and double-screening them and all different types of splines. And I wondered if you had any better ideas for us.

TOM: Are we talking about on doorways or windows?

PAM: We’re talking about screen sections on a screened porch.

TOM: Screened porch. OK. And so, how large-scale are these slice?

PAM: Probably 4x6.

TOM: Pretty large-hearted. Are you use vinyl screening or are you using metal screening?

PAM: Vinyl.

TOM: Yeah, I think that’s the issue. The vinyl screening is pretty soft and pretty resilient. Not very sturdy. I think you’re going to need to use a heavier-gauge screening in order to construct this more permanent. And you’re likewise going to need to consider not only the attachment degrees- I’m not quite sure how you’re doing that- but it’s have to go to be super-secure. And you might want to add grilles to divide that up into a little smaller room. It could be a thin grille but it could- but a grille would present it some additional strength.

So I think you’re going to need to use much heavier screening and not vinyl screening, OK? Because I fantasize putting on a double bed of the vinyl is going to really not got to get where you need to be. It truly should be heavy metal screening when it’s that- when it’s a 4x6-foot area.

PAM: Right. Do you know if metal screening comes in a fine fairly mesh to keep no-see-ums out?

TOM: Oh, yeah. It comes in different mesh densities and different gauge metals. You’ve just got to find a good source or supply down there for it.

PAM: Thank you very much. Regard the help.

TOM: You’re very welcome.

Well, building a barrier is a great way to improve your home’s curb appeal, your home’s value and keep out the wildlife.

I’ve got to tell you, Leslie, it is deer-mating season now. And around our sphere, these deer are going a little crazy. They are hopping around fencings, through fences, over fencings and into fences and there’s a lot of fencing damage to be fixed. And a good deal of folks that don’t have fences want to get barricades to try to keep the deer out.

And if it’s a project you wishing to yourself, you are able to. We’re going to give you some tip-off to help you get started, in today’s Better Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz.

LESLIE: Yeah. First of all, chaps, you’ve got to plan for your fencing assignment terribly carefully, because there’s nothing worse than an ongoing neighborhood brawl being undertaken by a fence that is built on the wrong side of a property line. So you need to know exactly where your strings are drawn and give your neighbor a heads-up to avoid any hard feelings. You know , none wants to be like, “Gosh, why’d they been put forward the fencing? Maybe they don’t like us.” Well, it’s not that they don’t like you. They time want a little of privacy. But if you impart a heads-up, no hard feelings to anybody.

And you need to make sure that you’re obligating it legal. Now , not all fencing requires permits but it is worth checking with your local officials, merely to be sure. Some towns are going to have stricter guidelines for fence stature, material selection, demonstrator spacing, post-hole positions, the whole works. Some might even have a minimum setback distance from the sidewalk or street, so you have to know the rules for where you live. It’s a good lieu to start. Just pop into the building district in your city and catch out exactly what you need to do to make love right.

TOM: Now, next, you want to think about your textiles. Fencing comes in, obviously, a broad range of those cloths. You can have natural grove, pressure-treated woods, composites, vinyl, metal. And you likewise need to think about the upkeep that’s is in need of your barrier, because that’s going to determine, too, what materials you choose. If you go with natural timber, that’s got the biggest ongoing necessitates. It’s going to require repainting or refinishing every few years.

But whatever you choose, you’re likewise going to need to get it to your dwelling. Fortunately, Hertz has immense assortments of trucks and vans that can help with that project.

Now, got to make sure the fence lasts, it is super important to set those barrier announces properly. Now, you can use concrete. That’s a great way to delve a post and have it locked in place for as long as you need it. But if you don’t have concrete, there’s another way to do it. You can mostly dig out the hole and fill it with gravel. If you pack it in really well, it will be just as strong as if it was solid concrete.

LESLIE: Yeah. One last-place gratuity now, chaps: you’ve got to remember the good side of the fence has got to face out.

Now, fencing like board-on-board is designed to look similarly great on both sides. But stockade fencing is just one finished place. And if that’s the kind of fence you have selected, remember that most building codes require that you have to put the good side of the fence facing out towards your neighbor.

TOM: And that’s today’s Better Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz. For any home project, collect getaway or move that needs more than your automobile can manage, remember HDTV: Hertz Does Trucks and Vans. Book now at Hertz.com.

LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime 24 hours per day, 7 days a week right here at 888-MONEY-PIT.

TOM: 888-666-3974.

Up next, are you ready to hire a pro to get your project done but you’re wondering if the pro is licensed? And which is what does that aim? What kind of licenses are required for contractors? We’re going to molted some light on that topic, after this.

Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: What are you working on this fine weekend? If it’s your house, "youre in" exactly the right place. Pick up the phone, announcement us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Alright. Pick up the telephone, give us a scold. But recollect, you can always post your questions on MoneyPit.com in the Community section or even on Money Pit’s Facebook page.

I’ve got one here from Ryan. Now, Ryan writes: “Before I hire him, I was intended to obligate sure my prospective contractor carries suitable coverage and licenses. Should he have a card that states that he’s licensed and has liability and workman’s compensation? I assume that a license would be obvious with the state’s information on it. But the insurance aspect does me wonder.”

TOM: Those are some highly, very good questions, Ryan. Because I’ve heard a good deal where folks say, “Yeah, I’m licensed.” What does that planned? You’ve got a driver’s license? I necessitate it’s kind of a wonky thing to try to nail down, particularly with some of these contractors.

So there are some key questions to ask before telling them and their team onto your asset and into your home. Now, be borne in mind that the license requirements are going to vary by state and by province and sometimes even by district. So you want to start with your local build department and find out which licenses contractors working in your city are required to have and more importantly, which ones they’re required to verify. In many cases, they’re going to carry a poster that documents their permission, which is comparable to a driver’s license. But you need to make sure they prove it.

And one orbit that’s super important for that is their insurance. Now, contractors should have drawback policy and workman’s comp insurance and both of which should be stated on that declarations sheet that they’re going to give you.

And you do want to ask for that dec sheet because here’s the thing: we have heard of contractors that get insurance at the beginning of the year, instantly drop it to save money but continue that declarations page and they’re happy to show it to you every step of the course. If there’s any question, really get an updated dec page, that’s dated recently, is responsible for ensuring that that contractor is, in fact, insured. Because if he’s not ascertained and somebody gets hurt on your owned, it’s going to be your trouble solved with- even more importantly, your homeowners insurance’s problem to deal with- but you merely don’t want to go there. So you need to verify that the insurance actually exists, as well as the license.

LESLIE: Alright. That’s a good point.

Next up, we’ve got a announce here from Kate. Now, Kate writes: “I was energized to build some bookshelves for my daughter’s room but the step-by-step counselings I concluded say that I need a superpower tool called a “router.” This sounds serious. I don’t know what it is that is and why I should be using one. Can you facilitate? ”

TOM: Well, you know, Leslie, a router is one of those tools that parties don’t use that is often and certainly, the basic DIYers. It’s kind of like an advanced tool, privilege? But you’ve seen what a router can do if you’ve ever known a piece of grove that’s got a rounded periphery or a idea advantage on it that looks a lot like it’s molding. That’s what a router does. There’s a wonderful, little blade that spins around extremely, very quickly and it will carve into those borders that particularly pattern.

So, if you’re expend it for bookshelves, for example, you are able to - you have been able round off all of the seams with that, on the edges of the boards, and stir them less various kinds of splintery. There’s too a route to use a router to kind of sort of create grooves in the lumber, where the wood might abide two cases that are sort of joined at a 90 -degree angle. That type of a joint determines the bookcase, in your case, much sturdier.

Some of those patterns- I remember one of them’s called an “ogee, ” right? That’s the one ...

LESLIE: Oh, the ogee hem is the most fancy edge when you go look at granite.

TOM: Right. Super, super edge.

LESLIE: And it’s the most expensive.

TOM: Of course it is. But I convey with lumber and a router, you could do it.

It’s not a very expensive tool, by the way. You can buy one for probably less than 50 bucks.

LESLIE: It does require a bit of practice, because there is some power to it.

TOM: Yeah.

LESLIE: Even though it’s small-time, it’s highly mighty. And you have to learn how to control it. So if it’s something that you’re going to pick up, I "re just saying" before using it on the articles of wood that came with the bookshelf, pick up a scrap portion, try all the different borders. Practice with it until you get wise just right and then hit the real project.

TOM: I think it starts more sawdust than any other tool in my shop, too.

LESLIE: It actually does.

TOM: Chips are flying everywhere.

This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, thank you for coming in for expend this final daylight savings weekend with us. We hope we’ve given you some great theme on projects that you can take on to help you get through the long wintertime ahead.

But remember, we are here, 24/7, to take those scolds. You can call us at 888-MONEY-PIT anytime or upright your questions to The Money Pit’s Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.

I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...

LESLIE: But you don’t "re going to have to" do it alone.

END HOUR 1 TEXT

( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No fraction of this record or audio enter is also available reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Yield, Inc .)

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