A tree in your landscape can be a thing of beauty. But after it’s gone, the stump left behind is not so beautiful. It’s a tripping hazard, can damage your lawn mower as you try to mow around it, attract insects, and let’s face it — sawn-off trunks just don’t look great! Stump removal is your only option.
But unfortunately, removing that stub of a tree that’s left is more difficult than you might think. It’s connected to a root system that once anchored a tree, keeping it upright in all kinds of wind and weather. In fact, the root system of most trees roughly mirrors the size and height of the tree itself, spreading as far out and down as the branches reached out and up.
After the tree is gone, those roots are still attached to the stump, clamping it firmly in place in the ground. The roots will eventually decay, returning nutrients to the soil, but the stump itself can take as long as 10 years to break down. Do you really want to work around that eyesore for the next decade?
Unless you lead with your checkbook, there’s nothing “easy” about stump removal. But if your willing to trade-off waiting time for expense, there’s a number of ways to eliminate the stumps for very little cost. Here are a few different methods to choose from.
The most common method of stump removal is grinding, but that job is about as far from DIY as you can get. You’ll need to hire a tree service who’ll use a specialized stump grinder, a machine resembling a torture machine from the scariest horror movie you can imagine. The toll features a spinning circular grinding blade that is plunged into the ground again and again to chew up the stump and reduce it to sawdust.
It happens fast, but the average cost for having a stump ground is $300, and prices can go as high as $900. If you have several stumps to deal with, you can pay an hourly rate, but at $150 or more an hour that can add up quickly.
Manual Tree Stump Removal
For the hearty do-it-yourselfer, digging out a medium-to-small sized stump can be done in an afternoon. Here are the steps.Dig around the stump with a pointed shovel to expose the roots. Extend the hole a few feet out from the stump to give yourself room to maneuver. Cut through the exposed roots. It helps to have a variety of tools on hand, to get through compacted soil and different sizes of roots. Good tools for this part of the project include a lopper, pruning saw, ax, and digging bar. Continue to work your way through roots and soil until you can rock the stump back and forth. Push the trunk to one side with a pry bar and cut through the exposed roots. Repeat, making your way around the trunk to get at the roots on all sides. Continue until the root ball is cut free. Remove and fill the hole with soil.
Chemical Tree Stump Removal
Stump removal chemicals are sold online and in home improvement stores. They generally contain potassium nitrate, which speeds up the microbial process of decomposition. They may be in liquid form or a powder, to which you add water. You will want to keep kids and pets away while the chemical is doing its work.Purchase stump removal product. With a chainsaw, cut off the stump as close to the ground as possible. Drill multiple 1′ holes 10′ deep in the top of the stump. Drill a few more holes slanting inward from the side of the trunk. These will provide air to help fuel decomposition. Pour the chemical in the top holes, according to directions. Cover the stump with a tarp and wait 4-6 weeks. The wood will become spongy. Chop out the softened wood with an ax and fill the hole with soil. Depending on the size of the stump, you may need to repeat the steps. Burning Tree Stump Removal
This is particularly effective when used as a second step after the chemical removal method. Instead of chopping out the remaining wood, burn it! If you’re starting your removal with fire, you’ll find that it works best on older, drier stumps. If yours was cut very recently or it is still putting out shoots then it’s still fairly green and won’t burn as well. For obvious reasons, follow all safety precautions, have a properly rate fire extinguisher handy, and keep kids and pets away from the stump as it smolders. The process is as follows:Check with local authorities for fire burn restrictions. With a chainsaw, cut off the stump as close to the ground as possible. Drill multiple 1′ holes 10′ deep in the top of the stump. Drill a few more holes slanting inward from the side of the trunk to intersect with the holes drilled down from the top. Pour kerosene or fuel oil into the holes. Do NOT use gasoline! Wait 2 weeks to let it soak through the wood. For a large trunk, repeat and wait another 2 weeks. Clear away debris from around the trunk and lay down bricks or rock to create a fire ring. Have a hose at the ready, as wel as a large fire extinguisher rated to work on fuel oil and wood. (An ABC rated extinguisher covers all types of fires). Using sticks and kindling, build a fire on top of the trunk. Once lit, the fire will burn out as the sticks are consumed, but the trunk will ignite and start to smolder. The trunk will continue to smolder for days. Check on it a couple of times a day, and stir up the embers if needed. Once the fire is completely burned out and the area is cool, rake out the ashes and fill the hole with soil.
There’s no reason you have to trip over an ugly stump in your yard for the next decade. Just pick your plan of attack and evict that memory of a tree gone by.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Stucco is one of the most durable wall surfaces available, but because of its rigid nature, stucco can develop cracks and holes over time, due to settling and impact damage. Once a crack or hole develops, it is important to seal it from water to prevent further deterioration. Flexible sealants are the best solution for cracks that are subjected to continual wall movement because they will allow the stucco wall to shift without affecting the repair.
Proper attention to crack preparation is essential to achieving a successful result. Using a chisel and a hammer, widen the crack to a minimum of one-quarter inch and break away any deteriorating material. The edges of the crack should be vertical or beveled in an inverted V. Then, remove the loose material with a brush. For cracks less than one-half inch wide several repair caulk and sealant products are available from QUIKRETE.
QUIKRETE Stucco Repair is a sanded acrylic caulk, designed to match the texture of the surrounding stucco surface. QUIKRETE Stucco Repair can be used on horizontal or vertical surfaces and dries to a firm, durable material. To apply stucco repair, simply cut the nozzle tip on an angle, with a utility knife, to match the width of the crack and load the tube into a standard caulk gun.
Slowly draw the gun down the crack, forcing a bead of stucco repair caulk deep into the crack. Stucco Repair can be tooled with a trowel, to match the surrounding surface, immediately after placement. Stucco Repair will begin to form a skin in about 20 to 40 minutes and will harden completely in one to two hours depending on temperature, humidity and crack depth.
Stucco Repair should be applied only when temperatures are between 40 and 90 degrees and should be allowed to cure for 24 hours, before painting with a water-based paint. Stucco Repair is a water-based product that can be cleaned up easily with a damp cloth.
For small, non-structural, aesthetic repairs to stucco, QUIKRETE Pre-Mixed Stucco Patch is an easy to use alternative. Stucco Patch is a pre-mixed, ready to use, acrylic latex formula for making repairs to cracks, holes, spalls and breaks up to one-quarter inch wide.
Pre-mixed Stucco Patch dries quickly to a durable, flexible finish that blends with the texture of the surrounding stucco. For patches or cracks over one-quarter inch, pre-mixed stucco patch should be applied in multiple layers, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next.
Pre-mixed Stucco Patch will begin to form a skin in about 20 to 40 minutes and will harden completely in one to two hours, depending on temperature, humidity and depth of the patch. Pre-mixed stucco patch should only be applied when temperatures are between 50 and 90 degrees and should be allowed to cure for 72 hours before painting with a water-based paint.
QUIKRETE Stucco Repair or QUIKRETE Pre-Mixed Stucco Patch can be used.
Step 1 Widen the crack to a minimum of 1/4 inch using a chisel and hammer (the edges of the crack should be vertical or beveled in an inverted “V”).
Step 2 Break away any deteriorating concrete and remove loose material with a brush.
QUIKRETE Stucco Repair (use for cracks less than ½ inch wide)Step 3 Cut the nozzle tip of the QUIKRETE Stucco Repair on an angle with a utility knife to match the width of the crack and load into a standard caulk gun. Step 4 Slowly draw the gun down the crack forcing a bead of stucco repair caulk deep into the crack.
QUIKRETE Pre-Mixed Stucco Patch (use for small, non-structural aesthetic repairs)Step 3 Stir the pre-mixed stucco using a margin trowel or putty knife. Step 4 Spread and texture the concrete patch to match the surrounding stucco – wet the trowel to achieve a smooth finish. NOTE: for patches or cracks over 1/4 inch thick pre-mixed stucco patch should be applied in multiple layers, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. Shopping List QUIKRETE® Stucco Repair OR QUIKRETE® Pre-Mixed Stucco Patch OR QUIKRETE® Polyurethane Concrete Crack Sealant Caulk gun Screw driver Margin trowel OR putty knife Wire brush Utility knife Hammer Chisel Commercial solvent OR citrus-based cleaner (for polyurethane concrete crack sealant) Cloth Gloves Safety glasses
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We’re now to assist you in with your home improvement projects, your decoration jobs. If there’s a project on your to-do list, devote us a call right now. If it’s one that you’re having a little trouble getting done, we can help get you out of a jam-pack. Or if you’re "ve been thinking about" hiring a pro to get a job done, we can tell you exactly how to find the best one and what to make sure you ask for when you ratify that home improvement contract. Whatever is on your to-do list can be on ours if you pick up the phone and call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Well , now that it’s spring and we begin to see all those springtime blooms perfectly bloom- but you know what? I’m a little impatient. I want to see them bloom straight off. I’m various kinds of tired of waiting for them. It’s like they’re teasing, you are familiar? And it turns out that the rapidity with which those grows bloom is determined by what the Department of Agriculture calls the “hardiness zone.” So we’re going to share some tips-off on the most wonderful practice to get a color-filled garden going , no matter where you live and whatever it is you fall on that map.
LESLIE: And too ahead, one of the most difficult of chores that homeowners encounter when they’re trying to have a quality lawn is getting rid of weeds. Now, it’s an age-old problem that’s stirred more complicated by the fact that there are over 200 types of grass that love your lawn as much as you do. And they kind of want to stick around, so we’re going to share some solutions in a bit.
TOM: Plus, are you planning a project to improve your outdoor living but you want to be confident the project is actually a good investment? We’re going to share the details on a project that can deliver years of happiness and one of the most valuable returns on an investment when it comes age for you to sell.
LESLIE: But first, we want to hear about assignments who the hell is replenishing your springtime dates, inside and out, floorboards to shingles, whatever it is you are working on. I know we’re still cleaning up from our sloppy winter. Even though it wasn’t very snowy, it did a number on our garden. So, that’s what’s been fill my weekends. What are you guys working on?
TOM: Give us a see, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Leslie, let’s get to those spring projections. Who’s first?
LESLIE: Mary in Massachusetts is on the line with a ridge-vent question. How can we help you today?
MARY: My house is 70 year olds. In time, it needed to be re-shingled. So the roofer asked now they use ridge vent and they opened the center of the roof. And it( audio chink) large and I was happy with the shingles but I do not like that ridge volcano( audio crack ). It’s like having an open space. Is there a mode I can close that?
TOM: No. That is doing exactly what it’s intended to do and exactly what it has to do, Mary. We all grew up with homes that were grossly under-ventilated. But if your attic is cooled perfectly, it should be the same temperature as the outside. It is not a conditioned cavity; it is unconditioned. So the hot is trapped at the flooring grade where you have insulation but the bank vent-hole is designed to let air out of the attic where it’s most likely to outlet.
So, for example, if your home is freshened perfectly, the wind is going to blow over the ceiling, it’s going to depressurize the bank and pull air out of the attic from that infinite. It plucks out sweat in the wintertime, it gathers out heat in the summertime.
And the other half of that are soffit vents at the overhang. These work together to properly ventilate a roof. So you’ve time never experienced a properly cooled attic but that is exactly what ridge ventilates is presumed to do. And I would not change them because if you do, you’re extending to have a number of issues to crop up.
Number one, you’ll have moisture that will build up in the attic. And what that will do is clear the insulation much less efficient. If you compute really 2-percent moisture to fiberglass insulation, it loses about a third of its fight to heat loss. Secondly, in the summertime, you’ll have unwarranted heat, which will realize cooling the house that much more expensive. So, I wouldn’t do a thing.
MARY: Hmm. OK. I was curious. I’m not thrilled with it but I predict I have to live with it.
TOM: Yep. Get used to it. It’s doing its errand, Mary, OK?
MARY: Thank you.
TOM: Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for request us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: James in Delaware, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JAMES: The other day, I sat in my living room when all of a sudden, this real loud whistle sound came out of my water-heater heater room. I opened it up. I’d exactly never heard this before and it did this for a few minutes. And then it just stopped.
TOM: You didn’t determine any sea come out of the overflow, did you?
JAMES: No. No. That’s what I can’t figure out.
TOM: How old-time is the water heater, James?
JAMES: About four or five years ago, I put in all electrical- who the hell is gas before- but all electric. I applied a Trane heater in and there was another label that they put in with the spray heater. And it seems like now- I haven’t heard that since. Now, when I use the water- the faucet- in the kitchen, right after I turn it off, a marry minutes later I hear this noise that’s like a click noise or something in the spray heater.
TOM: So, that sounding sound is probably the pipes expanding and contracting as they heat up and cool down. It tends to amplify itself by reason of the nature of the copper pipings. But everything that you’re inform me doesn’t signal that I’m thinking you’re having any kind of problem. Just sometimes, as the spray expands and contracts, it will constitute some odd sounds to it.
JAMES: Do I have to drain the heater at all or ...?
TOM: Do you have hard water there?
JAMES: Oh, yeah.
TOM: So "if youre having" hard-boiled water, sometimes you get mineral sediment along the bottom of the sea heater. But that wouldn’t genuinely bang an electric sea heater, because the scrolls are up in the middle of the ocean. They’re immersed right into the middle of the cistern, so it’s not going to make them less efficient. So you could but I don’t think it’ll have any effect.
If you have a gas water heater, the heating element’s at the bottom. And sometimes, if you get mineral deposits that sit over the bottom of the water tank, it’s kind of like an insulator and it establishes it harder to heat the water. But in the case of electrical liquid heater, the heating elements are embedded up in the ocean heater, often a foot from the bottom and a foot down from the top. So that wouldn’t affect it.
JAMES: Well, I saw there’s- isn’t there one at the top and the bottom?
TOM: Yes. But it’s immersed in the middle of the cistern. It sticks through the barrel, various kinds of at a right inclination. And there’s one about a hoof down from the top and one that’s about a foot up from the bottom. So you’re not going to have any settling of mineral-salt deposits on it.
JAMES: What’s the life expectancy of one of the following options acts?
TOM: About 10 times- 10 to 12 years.
JAMES: Ten times and that’s it. And when can I approximate the elements vanish, frequently?
TOM: Well, if the elements travel, they can be replaced. But the tanks tend to leak after 10 -plus years.
JAMES: Wow. And where should I impede an eye- where does it- they divulge in the bottom? They merely divulge water all over the place?
TOM: The best thing to do is if you’re going away, right, you are able to always turn off your main water valve. And likewise, turn off the water heater, because it won’t waste a lot of electricity by heating up irrigate in the mansion that you’re not using.
JAMES: Listen, let me tell you something, I love you guys. You people have a really very virtuous- a great show. Because there’s a lot of talk demo on and different things but you guys promotion a lot of people.
TOM: We try. Thank you so much better, James. We genuinely increase that. Good luck with the project and thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show. Give us a call, let us know what you are working on. We’re standing by at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You knows where to find top-rated home service pros and bible appointments online, all for free.
Just onward, are you ready to see more signals of spring? Well, so are we. We’re going to have some tips to jump-start your garden and get those heydays blooming quickly, next. Plus, more of your sees right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
TOM: Uttering good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your dwelling job before you hire a pro and instantly record one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
Now we’ve went Frank on the line who’s having an issue with paint on his siding.
What’s going on, Frank?
FRANK: It’s all- and first of all, it’s all coming off. It’s like no one ever primary it before or anything and I don’t know if "theyre using" paint or stain. And I’m not really sure what to go back with, if you have to prime it. I’m truly- I don’t know. I’m lost.
TOM: So we’re talking about backing shingles here , not roofing shingles, remedy?
FRANK: Right. Cedar shingles- grey cedar shingles.
TOM: So the paint’s coming off after you’re power-washed them, so you probably didn’t have good adhesion to begin with.
LESLIE: Yeah. But depict is going to come off when you pressure-wash. That’s just how it goes.
TOM: Well, that’s true-life and- well, depending on the ferocity of the pressure washer. But likewise, if dye wasn’t pertained well, if it wasn’t primed properly, then it will come off even that much more quicker. So what I would recommend you do is to get rid of any release cover that’s left behind. You’re probably going to have to abrade those shingles, probably brush them with a wire clean. Make sure you really get anything that’s loose off of that.
Then you’re going to need to prime the part shingle surface with an oil-based primer, because that’s going to give you maximum adhesion. The primer- one of the qualities of the primer is that it really sticks to the substrate. And then after it’s primary, you are able to situated a topcoat of colour over that. But that’s the process and there’s time no shortcutting it, especially if you’ve got adhesion problems with the decorate that you’ve taken off. You can’t applied good make-up over bad paint. You’ve got to get rid of all the bad paint, prime it properly and then repaint it and you’ll be good to go, Frank.
FRANK: OK. Because I’ve had some people telling me that you could use stain.
TOM: Well, you could use stain, as well, but only if all of the old-time dye is off. Otherwise, it’s going to look pretty bad.
Now, if you use stain, you still have to prime it. I’ve went cedar shingles on my home and I primed it first and then used a solid-color stain over that. And between the two of them- the last time I did it this space, it lasted about 15 or 17 years. But you’ve got to prime it. No matter what you do, you’ve got to prime it.
FRANK: OK. And an oil-based primer. OK. Thanks a lot.
TOM: You’ve got it, Frank. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Deborah in Pennsylvania, you’ve came The Money Pit. What can we do for you today?
DEBORAH: OK. I’m purchasing a home that has a couple of stains on the ceiling. And it is about to change the discolorations are located directly under the ventilates. I don’t know any other way to explain it but they’re like these tubes on the outside where the roof is. So, I was told by the inspection that those rubber-stopper situations that go around them need to be replaced.
TOM: OK. Yeah. So, the plumbing-vent twinkle is what is leaking here. And the plumbing-vent flashing consists of an aluminum portion of flash material that starts underneath the roof shingles and a rubber boot that is designed to fit over the plumbing tube. And they are usually- that rubber boot will very often crack and deteriorate and does have to be replaced.
Not a seriously complicated enterprise. A roofer or a carpenter can do it in about 10 or 15 minutes. They exactly mostly have to peel up a roof shingle or two right around there. You can do that with a flat prohibit. You can actually situated the flat bar under the roof shingle, get it right up to where the nail is and kind of wiggle it back and forth. That tack will come right out. You can various kinds of disassemble the roof one shingle at a time, supersede the flashing show and settled it back together.
So, pretty easy, straightforward mend job and not the least bit surprising, Deborah. OK?
DEBORAH: OK. Well, I admire you taking my bellow. Thank you.
TOM: Yeah. You’re welcome. Good luck, Deborah. Thanks so much for announce us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well , nothing says spring like colorful, flowering floras in your yard. And now that we’re well into outpouring, it’s time to seed the grains that will become those beautiful blushes of summer. But if you can’t are looking forward to grains to germinate, you can plant live buds for an instant pop of color.
Now, the key here is to choose right type of flowers for your region and that’s actually a jolly specific science.
TOM: Well, that’s right. Now, "the two countries " is divided into 11 different plant-hardiness zones. That’s determined by the U.S. District of Agriculture’s Plant-Hardiness Zone Map. And it lays out precisely where you are on that map and that specifies which flowers can stretch or are most likely to thrive at that special point. If you try to choose a bush that’s outside of your zone, it’s going to take longer or it may not actually thrive at all.
LESLIE: That’s why drawing up the clay for those flowers is really important, as well. Now, you have to have healthful grime and the correct pH levels for the type of heydays that you’re planting. You had wished to make sure you test the clay with a package and then add organic matter if it’s needed. You can add peat moss, sawdust, sand, excrement, grind husk, a homemade compost. What you compute is going to depend on what those results you get. So it’s really important to measure that grunge. You want to give those bushes the best chance to thrive and this really is a good way to do it.
TOM: It’s also important that, of course, you water as aimed. Now, it’s possible that you could have too little water but it’s just as possible you could have too much water and flood out those plants. You want to try to strive it- strive to get exactly the right amount so that the plants can actually survive and thrive.
And if you can keep it in the zone and you liquid it properly and you make good use of that report, you are very likely to get those blushes quickly and be able to enjoy that spring garden that much sooner.
LESLIE: Steven in Texas needs some help with cabinet ministers project. What is impossible to do for you?
STEVEN: Yes. So my spouse has challenges with chemicals, like formaldehydes and glues and make-ups that they put in kitchen cabinets, the new ones. And I was wondering if you had any idea what a person could use that you could get away from those types of chemicals in cabinets.
TOM: So you’re looking forward to a cabinet make that is kind of formaldehyde-free and VOC-free? Is that correct?
STEVEN: Yeah, that’d be right. Yes.
TOM: Steve, that’s an interesting question because when it comes to kitchen cabinets, so many of the products that go into kitchen cabinets have its full potential to have VOCs or volatile organic combinations in them. Because you could start with the boards that are used to build the cabinets. If they’re a pressboard or a composite board of some sort, that may have formaldehyde in it, for example. Then you have the finishes and on and on and on.
I think what you want to do is you want to look for kitchen cabinetry that is built to meet the brand-new CARB 2 standard. That’s C--AR-B- 2 standard. That stands for the California Air Source Board and that’s a standard that measures the level of those types of toxins in cabinetry. And so if you search for kitchen cabinets that encounter that standard, I think that’s a good place to start.
STEVEN: Well, generally, I do like maybe some metal cabinets, you are familiar. That would look nice in a kitchen. Would you have any ideas on something like that?
TOM: Well, you’d still have finishes on metal closets that would have been able to some of the same issues.
TOM: I haven’t looked metal lockers in a kitchen in forever. The Gladiator tribes at Whirlpool are doing a really good job these days with metal cabinetry for laundry rooms and practicality the regions and openings like that. But I don’t know if that cabinet route is going to extend to the point where you’d have enough flexibility to get it on in a kitchen.
LESLIE: Well, I can share with you a vendor of a no-formaldehyde-added cabinetry. They’re actually beautiful, handmade, wooden cabinets. I’m not sure this is right their cost extent but I am very well known the fact that they are not adding any substances to it. And they are very responsible in how they utilize the wood and the products that they use to make their cabinets. It’s a company out of Portland and their word is Neil Kelly. And it’s N-e-i-l-K-e-l-l-y.
And then, there was a metal-cabinet manufacturer that I was familiar with a little while ago. It’s Fillip Metal and it’s F-i-l-l-i-p. It’s sort of this new resurgence of some interesting, repurposed fabrics. And you might want to check them out, as well.
STEVEN: OK. Well, thank you very much for the information. I appreciate it.
TOM: Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Sandy in Pennsylvania, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
SANDY: Yes, I was calling to ask about building a garage. My husband and I time bought a home. It’s a two-story Colonial but there’s no garage and we’re trying to decide detached, fastened, with or without a breezeway. We know we want it to be oversized but we’re trying to decide which would be the most efficient and convenient select to go with.
TOM: So, it’s as much an architectural question as it is a structural question, because you’re trying to figure out what’s going to fit best with the property. So that quantity- that involves looking at the house itself in periods of its design and too looking at the neighborhood to determine what’s going to fit in well. Because it’s OK to have the nicest house on the chunk but it’s not OK if it’s that much nicer that the rest of the neighborhood pullings it down in value. Does that make sense?
SANDY: Yes. And I guess the rest of the dwellings are very, unusually same except they have garages.
TOM: OK. Well, then that’s a good example for you to follow.
TOM: Now, if you have the breezeway, then undoubtedly you’re going to have more functional seat. So I’m not quite sure what we can do to help you with this question, because it’s certainly a motif that "youve got to" kind of will be voting in favour of with your husband and then set apart building it. When it does get built, it certainly has to be built by a pro, tabled pursuant to all of the neighbourhood regulations, which are going to probably require that you have a adjusted of architectural plans.
TOM: So, you might just want to start with that because an architect- architects can help you look at the options very easily with the computer programming they use today and give you a chance to look at it from several different inclinations, both outside and inside, in terms of available storage seat and in different configurations.
SANDY: OK. Likewise, we need to replace the ceiling on the residence, so I was thinking making it an attached or with a breezeway kind of reaches it a little bit more efficient. As we replace the ceiling on the residence, we’d be putting the roof on the garage, as well.
TOM: OK. Well, it would make sense in order to be allowed to do the part ceiling and have that folded into the same project. And then you could, in fact, fold it into the same financing, more, if you’re financing the project. So, yeah, I’m all for meaning those projects to be done together. Because when the roofing team is on site, that’ll be the most cost-effective way to get it all done.
TOM: And to have it match.
TOM: We did our roof in the last year and we did everything but the garage. And the garage truly didn’t need it but seeing that brand-new, beautiful roof on the house, I really decided that I would ignore the fact that I had a few years of life left on my garage roof. And we did that, as well, which is why we always say that the three most expensive messages in dwelling betterment are “might as well.”
SANDY: Right. Right.
TOM: Alright? Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for label us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Just ahead, one of the most difficult of enterprises homeowners meeting when they’re trying to have a quality lawn is getting purged of weeds. We’re going to have tips to make sure your weeds lose the lawn battle, after this.
TOM: Drawing good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, one of the most difficult of tasks that homeowners encounter when trying to have a quality lawn is getting rid of the grass. You know, it’s an age-old problem that’s acquired more complicated by the fact that there are over 200 the different types of weeds that love your lawn as much as you do, perhaps even more.
TOM: That’s right. Now, to help us get a handle on the problem and the solutions, we welcome lawn-care expert Jim Wood from Bonide, a company that’s been helping homeowners beat back those grass now for over 90 years.
JIM: Thank you, Tom and Leslie. Glad to be on your show.
TOM: So this has got to be a question - you’re the guy that wherever you are, whether you’re- I don’t know- at the mall, the doctor’s office, having a lunch at the regional diner, people know you’re a lawn-care expert. People probably comes down to you all the time and ask you, “How do we be disposed of the darn weeds in the lawn? ” Is it always the same answer or does it actually depend on what kind of lawn they have and what kind of grass they have?
JIM: Well, it pretty much depends, Tom, on the time of the year and likewise how much stress the lawn is under. As we get into late springtime and summer, there’s a variety of factors that come into play in controlling weeds in lawns.
TOM: When you say lawn stress, it seems like an oxymoron. I always think of the lawn as being very chill.
LESLIE: Super relaxing.
TOM: Yeah, a residence you want to relax. But how does a lawn do stressed?
JIM: Well, the lawn get stressed simply because of shortage. Warm temperatures will make stress on cool-season grass. Heavy wind dries out the lawn, organizes the shortage scenario, which led to the stress on the plant.
And one of the things about weed switch is in order to get button of grass, they need to be actively originating. So, when a plant is under stress, "its not" actively germinating. So the homeowner will not see the outcomes that they fully expert.
TOM: So, do the weeds get an opportunity, when the plant’s under stress like that, to kind of grab contain?
JIM: Oh, they are able to, depends on the type of weed plant. Some will germinate in stress modes. But the biggest event is they definitely are very, very hard to control when the gras grass or the targeted weed is under stress.
LESLIE: Now, do you have to know what type of weed it is before you go and select that weed care? Or is there sort of a one type for all?
JIM: Well, if your targeted weeds are currently in your turf-grass domain, your lawn area, yes, you can go out and get yourself a broadleaf lawn-weed killer, such as Weed Beater Ultra, which will see up to 200-plus weeds that a homeowner is going to find on their lawn. That particular make will be applicable early in its first year: April, early May into mid-May. It can be applied into June. You start to get into July and August, you’ve got to back off a little bit because it’s getting too hot. And then you can reapply it again sometime in September through November.
So, it opens up a very great window of possibilities for a homeowner to restrict broadleaf grass in their lawns.
TOM: Now, Jim, a lot of these weed makes come in a center. I think sometimes parties get confused about how to mix properly. Is this particular product likewise offered in a ready-to-use formula, like the genu that you can just sort of screw your hose to and move?
JIM: It’s available in a ready-to-spray. It is what- the terminology used we use for a hose-end applicator. It’s very easy to do. The homeowner time basically secures it up to their hose, walkings to the furthest point in their yard and then toils and scatters moving, basically, backwards so they’re not walking through the soaking, plowed expanse. And then it’s too accessible in a ready-to-use, which is used for spot treatment now and there.
TOM: We’re talking to Jim Wood- he’s the lawn-care expert with Bonide- about how to control weeds in our yard.
So, Jim, apart from the Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer, I think sometimes tribes are now able to become themselves a target for added grass by the way they chipped their lawn. People are in a hurry to want to try to relieve the number of ages they’ve got to push that riding mower over the grass. So, sometimes they cut it too short. That can have an effect, too, right?
JIM: Tom, that’s very true. And that’s one of the contributors to having a weed-infested lawn. Cutting the grass too short stresses the lawn. So what happens is it demonstrates an opportunity for weed grains to germinate and to grow. The principle situation is to cut their lawn at about 3 to 31/2-inches towering. And that will shade the soil and foreclose weed-seed germination.
TOM: Perfect. Jim Wood from Bonide, thank you so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
If you’d like to learn more about the Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer, where you can find it, how it use and a lot of the other fine produces that Bonide offsets, chief on over to their website at Bonide- B-o-n-i-d-e-. com.
JIM: Thank you, Tom and Leslie.
LESLIE: Coming up, are you planning a project to improve your outdoor living but need to be confident that that projection is a good asset? We’re going to share the details on a project that can deliver years of indulgence and good ROI when you sell, in today’s Pro Project represented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Impelling good residences better, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You never have to worry about overpaying for a position. With HomeAdvisor, you can use their True Cost Guide and examine what others paid for same assignments and then get matched with top-rated pros, read critiques, get paraphrases and volume appointments, all free of charge. That’s at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Scott in Iowa on the line who are required to help with a paint campaign. Tell us what you’re working on.
SCOTT: I just recently bought a rental house and the plaster- it’s an older home and the plaster was falling off the house. Well, the guy I bought it from had restored it but if you look at it, it’s falling out in some areas and bowing back in in some areas. And I was just wondering, would I have to re-drywall it or is there a cheaper and easier way to fix that?
TOM: How much of this exists? Is there a lot of this that’s where it’s- the plaster seems to be loose?
SCOTT: Throughout the whole house.
TOM: Yeah, OK. So it’s a problem because it’s "re going to be" dangerous.
What happens is the plaster, when it’s requested, it’s worked over something announced “wood lath, ” which are like thin rows of grove. Kind of looks like those pokes we use to hold up garden floras and tomatoes and acts like that. And the plaster expands to behind the lath and it sort of locks in place.
But over the years, with an old home, those “keyways, ” we call them, loosen up and then the plaster is not attached to the wall anymore. So you are looking at a situation where the walls are going to get worse. It’s not going to get better. And if it’s the ceiling that’s loose, it could be dangerous. Because when that plaster comes, it’s actually, truly ponderous. I’ve seen it dent floors and certainly could hurt somebody.
So now we have- the question is: what’s the best way to deal with this? “Should I tear the plaster out? Should I drywall over? ” I’ve done it both courses and I’ve come to the conclusion, after trying it this practice for many years, that the best thing to do is to set drywall on top of the plaster, not tear it out, for a couple of reasons. First of all, it’s less chaotic. Secondly, that even when you tear out the lath and the plaster, you’ll find that the studs from the old-fashioned mansion behind it are not exceedingly even. So when you made drywall up, it tends to warp sometimes.
So what I would do is I would fix brand-new drywall over the plaster. You can be utilized 3/8 -inch-thick drywall, very; you don’t even needed by 1/2 -inch drywall. And then by bind from the drywall, through the plaster into the studs, you’ll help secure that loose plaster so you won’t have any further movement in that room. That would be my recommendation.
SCOTT: That works out.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: As you experience the warmer forecast, are you one of the millions of homeowners that starts "ve been thinking about" ways to further improve those outdoor gaps? If "you il be", it’s smart to knowledge the ROI and that’s return on asset. Because not all residence increases deliver a return on investment that you can count on. One that does, though, is building a deck. But your deck not only has to be well-designed to be attractive, it also has to be well-designed to be safe. And that’s why this is a project best turn left to a pro. We’ve got some tips to help you get that projection done, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: OK. So, first, let’s talk about cost. Now, according to HomeAdvisor’s most recent True Cost Report, the national average cost for a deck is just over about 7,000 horses. But those costs can vary widely based on the dimensions of the the floor, the number of positions the floor has and the material.
For example, decks that are made of pressure-treated lumber start at around 2,500 bucks while those improved utilizing composite lumber are going to begin upwards of 8,000. So, it certainly depends on all of those factors.
LESLIE: Now, regardless, a floor does deliver one of the best returns on your remodeling investment when it does come time to sell.
Now, house a deck likewise helps your home stand out in the marketplace. It realizes it much more of a advantageous residence to buy. Now, this is going to increase buyer competition for your home and result in a sale at the largest possible price.
TOM: Now, before you hire a pro, we undoubtedly recommend getting guess from at least two or three contractors before you finalize one pro to do the project. Make sure you read re-examine from others that have had similar projections done by the same contractor, as well. It’s so important to read those reviews and make sure this sounds like somebody that you can work with.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. You also want to devote a lot of time upfront on the specific characteristics. And don’t be shy about be discussed with your pro about ways to save money on development projects. Sometimes, small-minded scheme conversions that you represent early on can actually have a big impact on the final cost of the job. So speak up.
TOM: And that’s today’s Pro Project was put forward by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your field, read substantiated reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Kathleen in Rhode Island who’s doing some decorating and needs some help selecting floorings. How can we help you?
KATHLEEN: Ah, there are so many choices. We’re looking at laminate, engineered and hardwood. What do you advocate? I have one concrete floor, which is the walk-out basement. And then it’s the first and the second floor. First is main live neighborhood and second is bedroom.
TOM: Well, in the vault, you can’t use solid hardwood; you can only use engineered hardwood or the laminate because it’s very damp.
LESLIE: Right. And the laminate’s probably the most wonderful choice.
KATHLEEN: But what about wear and tear? That’s the other thing. I mean laminate cannot ever be sanded. You need to slam it out and redo it when engineered can be.
TOM: Well, I’ve came probably 10 years on the laminate storey in my kitchen and 3 kids that grew up on it. And I’ve got to tell you, it’s pretty rough stuff.
KATHLEEN: And now there are different degrees of laminate, more , no?
TOM: There’s different finishes, there’s different durability. There’s a test called a Taber Abrasion Test that’s done on laminate surfaces. It’s likewise done on the finish of hardwood surfaces. And that’s what regulates how durable they are.
So, as long as you- if there’s an option in the quality of finish from something that’s maybe designed for residential or commercial, I’d ever go with the tougher one.
LESLIE: Right. Well, Kathleen, in my home, our basement is where my teenagers hang out, it’s my workspace. And I positioned a laminate flooring down there and I elect one that has a beautiful grain to it. It looks like a hardwood. And then I’ve utilized area carpets to sort of warm it up and make it feel more homey. But it’s super sturdy. I had a plumbing issue see awry and lots of water underneath it and it didn’t buckle, bend. I has been possible to baked it all out and keep it really, certainly in good shape. So I’m all for a laminate in a lower level.
Now, when it is necessary to your main floor and your bedroom field, I’d be more inclined to lean toward an engineered hardwood or a hardwood, depending on your budget and depending on the aesthetic. You can go with- if your concern is wear and tear and refinishing, you can go with a commercial-grade finish. It’s about to become a little bit more costly but it’s going to allow that hardwood to really stand up.
The other option to consider is in your entryway foyers or places where you come in and out, like a mud room, become laminate again in there or do a tile or a marble or something that will be more easily cleanable, more durable, simply to handle that type of wear and- wear situation.
Now, I personally, on two seconds floor and even in living spaces - you say you’re by the salt water. I realize you have a certain sort of design style that could be sort of- I’m guessing like a traditional but contemporary at the same time, since you’re on the water. And wider boards are very popular now.
KATHLEEN: Yes, I concur. They’re very attractive.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. They’re very attractive. You can go for a plank that has some sort of a hand-scraping detail to it that reviews a little more age-y and more shabby and- but still be durable.
KATHLEEN: OK. And so you’re comfortable with that for a full living space? The laminate.
TOM: Alright, good, we speak you into it.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much better for name The Money Pit.
Up next, light-green dwelling better options seem to be multiplying lately but it isn’t ever clear how much you’re actually helping the planet and yourself with the choices that you’re obliging. We’re going to have gratuities to help you fix the right choice for both, after this.
TOM: Clearing good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this fine outpouring weekend? We’d love to hear from you. If it’s a residence improvement campaign that maybe you need some assist with, help yourself firstly, though, by request us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They genuinely have the best neighbourhood pros for any home service.
LESLIE: That’s right. It doesn’t was important that that activity is, they make it fast and easy to find top-rated pros.
TOM: And there are no membership fees. It’s 100 -percent free to use, HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Don’t forget, while you’re online, to head on over to MoneyPit.com and announce your questions in the Community section. And I’ve got one here from Julie in Wisconsin who author: “I want to supersede a glowing fixture with a ceiling fan. Is there anything special I have to do, like new wiring? ”
TOM: Hey, that’s a good question and that’s a really fun project, Julie. So it really is- there’s actually two parts to that. One is the electrical part and one is kind of the mechanical/structural part.
Now, depending on how that container is installed, a ceiling follower is a lot more heavy than a light fixture. So, the following is some special brackets that need to go into the ceiling organize to reinforce that and the wobbly vibration that it’s going to cause and the added weight. So that’s really important.
In calls of the wire, most lighting tours can certainly power a ceiling fan. It’s kind of a one-for-one when you add that wiring. In other utterances, you’re going to have a black wire, white wire and a dirt wire. And you’re going to have a black wire, white wire, grind wire on the love most of the time, so it’s frequently a one-to-one various kinds of connection.
But with all electrical projects, you clearly want to get an electrician if it’s not something you’ve done before, because you could get seriously hurt. But remember, make sure it’s installed solidly and cabled properly and you’ll have countless, many years of happy use with it.
LESLIE: Alright, Julie. Good luck with that. Ceiling love are so great on warm summer nights.
TOM: Well, dark-green residence better alternative seem to be multiplying lately and it’s not ever clear how much you’re actually helping the planet and helping yourself with the choices you conclude. Leslie has some gratuities to assist you in style it out, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
Leslie, it seems like light-green, organic and healthy are words that are way overused these days. How do we represent sure we’re getting what we think we are?
LESLIE: Those are a lot of periods that you’re seeing thrown around in a lot of places and it does get embarrassing. I planned there’s a term for it; it’s announced “greenwashing.” You know, it’s - you’re just get bombarded with all this word that you’re not really sure what that real value is.
Now, if you’re planning to purchase a home improvement-related concoction and you want to ensure that it’s environmentally friendly, there are a few things to look at, beyond those advertising claims, required to determine whether the make is truly green.
You want to start by considering the basics. Now, I’m talking about the raw materials that go into that concoction and where they are from. You’ve got to remember that anything that’s got to be transported a long way introduces other precious resources into that equation. Then you’ve got to look at the cements, the finishings, the finishes that are used to procreate that concoction viable and whether or not the manufacturing process induces to freeing of damaging elements. And next, you’ve got to consider the produce box and the likelihood that that commodity is going to release VOCs- those volatile organic complexes- into your dwelling home during and after installation.
Now, a product’s afterlife has also got to be a big factor in determining the greenness of it. Really as there are benefits to selecting a product made from sustainable ingredients, it was necessary to be informed that those ingredients is also available recycled, rehabilitated, repurposed, whatever it is when that product’s time with you is over. All good concepts must be given to an goal and when that let this happen, a lettuce one is much preferred.
So do your research. Don’t be confused by the terminology and I’m sure you will find enormous eco-friendly makes to bring into your home.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, coming up next time on the program, have you ever noticed a hit in a wall or organization and wondered if it’s serious or not? Well, Tom Silva, the general contractor from This Old House, is going to stop by with provide answers to that question and more, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
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( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No section of this transcript or audio register may be are described in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Make, Inc .)