Prevent Frozen Pipe Breaks | Space Saving Bathrooms | Removing Wallpaper

TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: And we’re now to help you take on your residence improvement projects, get those decor projects done. If you’ve got a decor dilemma, a DIY dilemma, don’t know where to start, don’t know what you need, whether you can do it yourself or need to get help, we can help with all of those questions. Help yourself firstly, though, by picking up the phone and calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or posting your question on

Coming up on today’s see, temperatures are slipping rapidly. So, a few questions: are your home’s water lines prepared to stand up to that freezing brave? If you have ever had a frozen pipe- or worse, a pipe disintegrate- it is high time to take steps to make sure it doesn’t happen this wintertime. We’re going to tell you some tips-off that you can follow to make sure your tubes keep the flow and not- and don’t explode once they freeze and separate. Because I say to you, it’s a really tough one to repair once that happens.

LESLIE: And too onward this hour, is your home suffering from old-fashioned, dres and dated wallpaper? Well, removing it is not as hard as you might think. Alright, it’s various kinds of hard-boiled but it’s surely worth noting. But we’re going to have some paces to make it quicker and easier, including manoeuvres that move the next hair of paint or wallpaper going on that much easier to apply.

TOM: Plus, one of the most popular projects for this time of year is soak remodeling. Everybody craves it done, you know, before the end of the year, before we have friends and family over around Christmas and New Year’s and all the other holidays. So we’re going to give you some step-by-step advice for DIYers and pros to get that job done quickly.

LESLIE: Plus, it’s winter season and that means fuel season. Do you have all the paraphernalium that you need to protect your home? Well, you are able to not if you’re “re missing a” kitchen flaming extinguisher.

TOM: Yeah, that’s right. And that’s because kitchen extinguishers are special and they’re designed specifically to handle grease and electrical ardors, which are more common to that infinite and certainly a bigger risk now with all the holiday cooking going on. So we’re going to give away a kitchen flame extinguisher, along with a whole host of produces from our friends at First Alert, to one lucky listener described at random.

So, if you want it to be you, you’ve got to pick up the phone and call us. The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.

Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?

LESLIE: Robert in Alaska is on the line with a crawlspace situation. Tell us what’s going on.

ROBERT: Basically, what I’ve went going on is we had a lot of rain this summer, so I had liquid kind of penetrate the foundation. And I was wondering if there is anything I could do from the inside to maybe stop some of that penetration from coming in and get the hell out of there the wood that’s holding up the, I predict, the floor.

TOM: Yeah, utterly. Now, are you talking about concrete-block walls?


TOM: OK. So, a couple of things. Firstly of all, we want to make sure that you are doing what you can to slow the collection of spray from outside moving inside. So that intends looking at your gutter system, obligating sure this is right sewers and that they’re diverting liquid away from the house, not just a couple of feet from the foundation but well away. And make sure that the slant of the grime around the foundation ascents away. And that are able to do a lot to move the irrigate away from that backfill zone.

Inside the crawlspace, you can add a vapor barrier to the grime and that will stop moisture from vaporizing up. And on the blocks themselves, you can apply a product called Ames’ Blue Max, which is a rubber paint. It’s very stretchable and it clings really well. And when you apply it to the block, it stops any moisture from comes back the block. Ames is spelled -Am-e-s and the commodity is called Blue Max. You can search for it online. Their website is

ROBERT: OK. Great deal. Yeah, I’ve got a company coming in to, I suspect, dig the outside of the foundation and set some drainage the following spring- this coming spring- so …

TOM: OK. Well, let me prevent you right there, OK? Because that’s not likely going to help you and it’s not necessary.


TOM: If that humidity is consistent with rainfall- in other words, you get a lot of downpour, looks just like you mentioned, and then you get leakage- then putting all those drainage tubes and disturbing all that soil is really not the way to go. If you improve your gutter system and you improve the grading- the angle of the clay around the foundation boundary- that stops the majority of members of that surface water from getting in.


TOM: The only time we recommend drainage arrangements, like what you’re describing, is when you have a rising water table which, if you did, you wouldn’t be going leakage that’s consistent with rainfall.

ROBERT: Ah, OK. Well, good. That’s important to know then.

TOM: Yep. So now there “theres going”; saved you a assortment of money.

ROBERT: Oh, yes, you did.

TOM: You’ve got it, Robert. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Now we’ve got Christine from Ohio on the line and I judge she’s got a lot of an issue of us here at The Money Pit. How can we help you?

CHRISTINE: So my first issue is about the garage separation. Our strategy call for an uninsulated garage and we got some guess on scatter sud. And so I had them give me an estimate on the garage. I was wondering how much of major investments should we put one across the insulation in the garage or is it worth it at all?

TOM: So, is this new construction, Christine?


TOM: OK. So, garages don’t have to be insulated by construct code. Typically, the only part of the garage that would naturally be insulated would be the wall between the garage and the house.

This is an appended garage?

CHRISTINE: Detached.

TOM: Oh, separated. OK. So then it would have no insulation. So, the only reason to insulate this is if you, in the future, decide that you’re going to want to heat that gap. And if it is a detached garage, that may very well be the case. And it’s never going to be easier than it is right now to insulate that space.

In terms of the insulation alternative, since it is new construction, I would definitely recommend that you use spray-foam insulation because it’s awfully effective likened- guys more efficient than fiberglass. It also stops any sketch that are going through the walls.


TOM: So, my two pennies would be- I is sure to insulate that garage and I would do it with spraying foam before it’s all finished off. Because this mode, you’ll be good to go.

Now, on the inside of that garage, if you’re going to introduced spray foam on those walls, you’re too going to need to cover them. So, “ve been thinking about” that. You don’t require to leave that scatter sud uncovered, because it’ll precisely get beat up over time.


TOM: So you could put on any type of wallboard. I would maybe lean towards fiberglass wallboard. It looks like drywall but it’s a little bit harder and it doesn’t proliferate mold, because it’s outside.

CHRISTINE: Oh, OK. And in the crawlspace of the house, where we have the add-on, we were going to be spraying sud. Should we just get it on the joists or should be used depart all the way down the cinderblock?

TOM: Well, typically, it clearly goes on the underside of the flooring joists and most importantly, at the box beam, which is the outside- right above that foundation. But the sud would not go down below that. If you wishes to be insulate the crawlspace walls, there’s a different type of a kind of a fiberglass batting that’s used for that, that’s contained inside of a package. It usually has a foil face. And that’s going to work better for that tiny slouse of fiberglass- of, excuse me, foundation wall.

CHRISTINE: OK, great. Thank you so much.

TOM: Well, you’re very welcome, Christine. Very exciting. You’re getting a new house and we’re glad that we were able to help you start the right decisions for it.

LESLIE: Yeah, good luck with that.

CHRISTINE: Yes. Thank you so much.

LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Give us a bawl with your decoration or your residence better questions now at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, regional residence better pros for any home project. Go to

TOM: And time onward, can your plumbing hoses exist the cold? We’re going to give you some easy, inexpensive ways to keep them from freezing and smashing, after this.

Where home answers live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: We’d love to hear from you right now. Just pick up the phone and call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT with your dwelling improvement questions.

And 888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly matched with top-rated pros for any home project and journal appointments online for free.

And you know what else you can get for free? Well, if you contribute us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT, you might just earn the First Alert Home Safety Kit. We’re giving one apart and it includes a kitchen flame extinguisher, which is easy to use and designed specifically to fight the combustible liquid and electrical shells you would find in the kitchen. That container is worth 145 bucks. It includes a smoking detector, carbon-monoxide detector, combo panic, a whole knot of stuff.

And I adoration the fact that these alarms now, Leslie, they’ve get 10 -year artilleries. So you don’t have to change them every year like when you vary the clocks, right? Ten years and you’re good to go.

So, it’s going out to one caller drawn at random. One listener. Give us a bawl right now. The digit is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.

LESLIE: Now I’ve went Roland on the line. What’s going on at your fund pit?

ROLAND: I have got a huge master bedroom with synthetic-marble illustrations and all. And it’s always simply had mold all over the highly foot of the seams. I have to cut it out about every six to nine months and replace it. It’s driving me crazy. All the mold products you buy, caulkings say 10 years. I’ve located any that last more than a year. Can you give me an alternative plan for this? I’ve been doing this since’ 05.

TOM: Wow. So, this marble is around what again?

ROLAND: The very bottom, between the horizontal membranes that come down. It’s like the last three hoof in the angles and then where the base of the shower gratifies the walls.

TOM: Alright. So, a couple of things come to mind.

First of all, when you have a big mold problem, you have to be extra careful with the ventilation in the cavity. What kind of bath ventilation do you have right now?

ROLAND: I think it’s like 700 CFM fan in the- above it.

TOM: And do “youre using” this follower, you are aware, religiously when you take showers, to keep the sweat out of the room?



ROLAND: I exactly- I’m trying to think. And then there’s another devotee, right outside of it, for the bathroom.

TOM: Well, that’s what I’m talking about. See, what I’m going to recommend you do is look at your bathtub breathing and make sure that you upgrade that bathroom devotee. And you can find one that’s on a humidistat or on a timer so that it’s basically moving anytime there’s high-pitched humidity in that opening. If “youre supposed to” reduce the quantity of humidity that’s in that room all the time, you’re vanishing to do far less mold growth. So that’s one thing. And make sure, of course, that wherever that vent-holes it’s outside your house.

ROLAND: Yeah. I’ve never had a problem from chest-high up. It’s always waist-high and below.

TOM: Well, that’s because the lower parts of that slab, it’s going to be colder than what’s up higher. And so you’re going to get more moisture and more saturation lower down on the wall than you are higher up on the wall. So that’s the reason you’re identifying it at the bottom. That’s reasonably common.

Now, the next thing is you want to make sure that when you do caulk this that, first of all, you take steps to remove all of the aged caulk. And there’s a product that’s various kinds of like a draw stripper but it’s for caulk. It’s called a “caulk softener.” And when you apply this substance, you’ll be able to get all the age-old caulk soothed up and be able to get it all fully removed.

And then, before you employed new caulk on, what I want you to do is to take a exceedingly strong- like a 50/50 bleach-and-water solution and then spray all of those joints down so that we kill any mildew or mold that’s behind that slab domain. And gave it sit there for a good half-hour and then make sure it’s mopped off and dries really well.

And then, when you apply the brand-new caulk I want you to look for caulk that has Microban in it. And probably silicone caulk with Microban. Because silicone is much less likely to grow mold and the Microban is an additive that I know, personally, to be very effective in stop mold. So I think it’s a combination of reducing the humid conditions in that space. Even beings that use bath devotees always turn them off when they leave the room. And of course, the room stands damp for quite a long time. So if you have one that’s on …

LESLIE: It even gets more condensation, because the door’s open.

TOM: Yeah, precisely. So if you were to have one that’s on a humidistat, then it’s going to run as long as it “re going to have to” to cool that room out. And then do a good, proper caulking job, representing sure to kill anything that’s been left behind. And I think that you’ll see a significant difference if you make those steps.

ROLAND: OK. I may do- I may- I actually thought about gathering a small duct love through the wall, into the bedroom, so that anytime the shower was on it would ventilate around through the walls and exactly try to remove that, more. But I didn’t.

TOM: Yeah, I don’t think you have to go above and beyond what we’ve intimated here. I belief the combined effects of these few things is going to do it for you.

ROLAND: Alright. Phenomenal. I’ve been using the Microban but I will try to, before I recaulk it this time, make those extra measures. And I expressed appreciation for so much.

TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.

Well, anybody who’s dealt with them can tell you frozen pipings are one large-hearted, expensive headache. The good word is, though, there are a few things you can do to stop them from freezing in the first place.

LESLIE: Yeah. On those super-duper cold nights, you guys, why don’t you open the door to any of those under-sink closets along the exterior walls of your residence? Yeah. And this is most often where your kitchen sink lives, so you want to let that warm breeze in. And that’s going to prevent it from becoming a freezer, which can then lead to those frozen water lines.

TOM: Now, you too want to bundle up hoses, just like you do with a winter hair. I recommend you wrap isolation around the pipings if they’re in an unheated crawlspace, in an attic or in a vault. You can use foam tubes, you can use fiberglass tubes, you can use fiberglass wrapper, piping wrap. Whatever you do, insulate them because that is going to stop them from freezing in the first place.

LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And you know what? Those crawlspace and cellar drafts can actually freeze those uninsulated hoses in exactly a matter of a few hours. So it is capable of happen far more quickly than you think.

Now, once you find those enlists, you want to consider using an expanding foam sealant. And that’s going to seal everything off and trim those drafts out.

TOM: Now, ultimately, preserve all your heat above 55 magnitudes all winter long, even if you’re not home, even though it is you’ve turned your sea off, which we hope you do if you’re leaving in the winter. But if you shut off the lower, unused heating zones, that can cause water and heating directions to freeze up in the walls and the ceilings.

So, a few things to do to keep the water stream through those pipings and stop those frozen tubes from undermining. Because you know what happens when they melting? You flood your live. It’s not pretty. So, don’t skip that step.

LESLIE: Next up, our caller has a great list. We’ve went Leslie on the line who’s got a question about trimming down a door.

Welcome, Leslie.

LESLIE( CALLER ): We have one door that I need to cut down. Croaks into the basement.


LESLIE( CALLER ): It’s also a six-panel, solid-core oak door.

TOM: Right.

LESLIE( CALLER ): When we went to cut it off, there appears to be staples or some kind of tiny metal cases inside the- there’s about 8 inches that go across the bottom. We were cutting that off or a part of it- 6 inches of it. And it’s wholly spoilt a watch blade.

TOM: Right.

LESLIE( CALLER ): Do you have any suggestions as how to cut a solid-core door?

TOM: Yeah, having the staples inside of “thats really not” unexpected. Depends on how- they might have been used in the manufacturing process. I’ll be willing to bet that you used a non-carbide saw blade, because had you used a carbide visualize blade, it would have probably chipped through the metal and all.

LESLIE( CALLER ): OK. So just use a carbide.

TOM: Use a carbide blade and safety glasses and not a great carbide blade, because it will ruin the blade. But generally, it’ll cut right through something like that.

LESLIE( CALLER ): Alright. Thank you so much better for your help.

TOM: You’re welcome, Leslie. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Rich in Illinois is on the line and “workin on” a concrete activity. How can we help you today?

RICH: Well, I’ll tell you what, we’ve had a brand-new home built for us and because it was in a flood zone, we making a decision have the chamber of representatives built on 9-foot spewed concrete walls. Now, primarily what the hell is thought was going to happen is they were going to be concrete-slab walls and we were going to fold a nice facade river boulder around the whole bottom.


RICH: This is out in “the two countries “, in a forest specifying on a reservoir and it’s went delightful cedar placing. And when they poured the concrete, they rained it in structures, rather than being a slab, that looked like bricks.


RICH: And we objective up looking at it and thinking, “You know, we kind of like the inspect of this- these fleshes left.” Instead of spending a lot of fund to wrap it in flow rock, we were thinking here of leave it. And then individual came here and said there’s a technique that you can use to draw this brick-like concrete so it actually looks a great deal like brick. And I’d never heard of that. And they said they had seen it but they didn’t know how it was done. I was wondering if you guys knew anything about that.

TOM: So, Rich, this is a swarmed concrete wall that has a brick pattern but of course, it looks a lot like gray concrete, so we’re not clowning anybody into thinking it’s real brick, correct?

RICH: Right.

TOM: So, there is a way to add color.

I would suggest acid staining, right, Leslie?

LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And there’s various manufacturers that do make an acid-staining product. And it’s- it really is a chemical reaction done onto the surface of the concrete that causes the concrete to truly change its colouring; it’s not something that’s applied to it. There’s an etching process and then the coloration process.

QUIKRETE represents them. If you seem up online, you’ll find a ton of different creators that do likewise realize them. And if you get a little creative, you can mix and match and throw it the extent and quality of an aged brick. I would recommend working on an neighborhood behind a bush or somewhere on the back side of the house until you get comfy with your technique and the coloration, so you know what you’re going to get.

RICH: Right. OK. Fantastic. Thank you.

TOM: You’re welcome. Good fortune with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Remember, you can reach us anytime 24 hours a day, 7 days a week with your home amend or your residence progress question right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

TOM: And still onward, is wallpaper the only thing endure between you and your dream area? We’re going to have tip-off for easy removal, when The Money Pit returns.

Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: And we are presented by Never worry about overpaying for a racket. Exactly use the HomeAdvisor True Cost Guide to see what others paid for similar projects. That’s all for free at

LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got Joyce in Illinois who’s having a flooring issue. Tell us what’s going on.

JOYCE: Well, a few years ago, I put down a new kitchen floor- Congoleum DuraCeramic kitchen floor. And it has all these differentiates and things on it that I had a guy come out and look at it and he “said its a” problem from the factory. And I thought they were going to replace it and they never did oust it for me. And I was just wondering, what do I putting in place? I have dwelling day care and I was wondering what I could put down to stand up to my dwelling day care and still look nice?

TOM: Laminate tasks really well and it’s gotten less expensive. It’s easier to install.

Laminate floor is- can appear like vinyl, it can look like stone, it can look like wood. It can look like anything. And it’s mostly made of a medium-density fiberboard and then a color layer, which has the pattern of the stone or whatever it is on it. And then the laminate is on top of that. So, basically, it’s a sandwich.

And while beings are likening- would liken laminates to, say, a laminate countertop, like a Formica, a laminate flooring is actually about 100 times bigger durable since they were kept more protection on it. Yeah, I’ve had a laminate flooring down in my home, which is a very old house, for about 10 years. And it appears as good as the day we made it down, so I know it stands up well.

JOYCE: Well, I know I have day care and the kids are throwing toys around and everything else.

TOM: Sure. Absolutely.

JOYCE: Yeah.

TOM: Kids, dogs, toys, furniture. Yeah, I would take a look at laminates. Tough stuff and easy to clean.


TOM: Alright, Joyce? Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for label us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Well, if you’ve been staring at some aged, worn-out wallpaper but you’re putting off removing it because of the hassle, we get it. Trying to separate that wallpaper from the wall involves hard work, fortitude and persistence. And around this time of year, we’re all short on all of those things. But if you understand the options for removing it, you can actually save some time, energy, even some hassle in your seeking to induce that paper disappear. And there are really four steps that you’ve got to follow.

TOM: Yeah. First off, you’ve got to score the wallpaper. When we say score, we symbolize cut it.

LESLIE: Wallpaper one, homeowner zero.

TOM: Exactly. Yeah, right.

Use a practicality pierce, a wallpaper scorer, which is a very cool tool. I think it’s called a “paper tiger, ” one of the ones I’m familiar with. And you run it over the wall and it creates really small holes or truly thin fissures in the working papers. And the reason you’re make that is because it allows steam, which we’ll get to in a moment, to get through to the adhesive cornerstone and tighten it up.

Now, bear in mind the closer and more abundant those valued loopholes and wedges are, the smaller the slice of newspaper who the hell is gathered off. So if you prefer to remove wallpaper in big sheets, then value less.

Now, as to the steam, clearly, perfectly, the number-one easiest behavior for you to remove wallpaper is by charter a steamer. Entirely worth the costs and the hassle. You can work from the top down. That steam goes into that wallpaper. It melts apart the glue that’s impounding it up. And then you can peel it off one section at a time.

LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, here’s the other trick: you’ve got to add solution. If that wallpaper is just resisting removal, you want to mix hot water and fabric softener, equal roles one to one. And then pour that solution into a spraying bottle and apply to those tough-to-remove rooms. You’ve got to work immediately, because that solution is going to lose its effectiveness after about 15 minutes.

Now, once you do get that wallpaper off, you have to prep the wall and “youve got to” prep the wall really well. You want to use a mixture of purified lily-white vinegar and water. And that’s going to help you remove any remaining cement. Now, you’ve got to wait until that skin-deep is wholly cool. And once it is, you want to apply primer. And you’ll do that whether you’re putting up more wallpaper or you’re illustration. So, primer first. Let it dry really well and then go ahead and finish off with whatever that hoped inspect is, because that’s going to give you the best surface.

Now, if this all seems like way too much work, you may be wondering: is decorating or wallpapering over existing wallpaper policy options? Our answer is sure, it’s an option but we don’t definitely recommend it. Because if you draw over wallpaper, that kind of imperils the integrity of the infinite, which could factor into a buyer’s interest and even the value of the home down the road. And even more, it determines the next paint- or wallpaper-removal job way more difficult.

So, if you’re not glad with the working papers, do it now. Spend the time. Get the steamer. Gather it off now. Don’t leant it off. Don’t paint over it. You’ll be much happier in the long run.

LESLIE: You can reach us with your residence restore or your home progress question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

Just ahead, one of the most popular projects for this time of year is bathroom remodeling. Everybody misses it done and they want it done now, right before the holidays. So we’re going to have some step-by-step advice for DIYers out there and the pros to help get that job done, in today’s Better Get a Truck Tip presentation by Hertz, next.

TOM: Where residence solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Hey, did you know that cooking shells are the primary campaign of residence fires and home fuel injuries? Well, even though it is you didn’t, you should know. And you are to have a kitchen burn extinguisher in that kitchen to protect you. If you don’t, no problem; we’ve got one to give away.

We’re giving away the First Alert Home Safety Kit, which includes their kitchen shell extinguisher. It is small enough to fit in a cabinet or mount on a wall employing a bracket. Very enticing. Designed to meet those expecting needs. Easy to operate. It is part of the First Alert Home Safety Kit, which is valued at 145 bucks. It also includes the smoke, carbon-monoxide and combo dismays, all with 10-year artilleries. So we’re going to mostly strengthened in your residence safety in a pretty big way if you win this product.

The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.

LESLIE: Wade in South Dakota is on the line and has a question about backing. How can we help you?

WADE: Hi. We had a big hailstorm come through and it took out a assortment of our siding- our steel siding. And I’m kind of fighting with the insurance company to find an precise join. My question, I suspect, is- the house is close to 20 years old. What are the occasions that the backing that they pick is going to match up with the complexion?

TOM: Between little and none.

WADE: That’s kind of what I figured.

TOM: And listen, Wade, when- this does not constitute a brand-new justification with insurance companies. It happens all the time with roof damage, you are aware?

Like say you get ice-dam damage and “youve got to” time supplant like 3 feet of ceiling on the front of the house or maybe you get holes around a ventilate or something and you “re going to have to” change a piece of ceiling. Policy fellowships traditionally oust the entire roof. And in your action, they should be replacing all of your siding, without argument, because they’ve got to restore it at least as good as it was before. And giving you mismatched placing isn’t what you contracted them to do.

So I would stick to your guns. And sure, give them the opportunity to find a replacement but they won’t be able to. And you don’t have to accept it and you can insist that it all be replaced with brand-new siding.

Do you have a private adjustor on this to help you with the amount claimed?

WADE: Somebody that the insurance company contacted, yes.

TOM: That adjustor is working for the insurance company. What you want to do is get a public adjustor. And a public adjustor works for you, the public. And they work on commission, this is why it doesn’t really cost you much to have these guys on the number of jobs. And they’re there to find every single, solitary thing that they can claim for and get that into the claim.

So, everything from picking up the nails on your quality that will be part of that construction project, to coming the entire house re-sided. They try to get that claim as full as possible because the more they find, the more coin they originate. Because they’re all on commission.

So I is sure to pinpoint a good-quality public adjustor. Perhaps check with your attorney. Do your research. Find somebody that “ve got a lot” of ordeal and tell them fight for you so you don’t have to fight with the insurance company.

WADE: Great. I’ll definitely look into that. Thank you.

LESLIE: Well, bathroom remodeling is one of the most popular projects for this time of year, because everybody wants it done before the holidays. Now, “the worlds biggest” challenge is that it can be complicated and expensive to get it done , not to mention inconvenient, specially if it’s the only bathroom in the house.

TOM: Well, fortunately, you don’t need to tear into walls or completely absolutely reconfigure plumbing to get enormous decisions. We’ve got some tips-off for how to procreate small-scale changes and additions to your shower to create the kind of space “youve been” need, in today’s Better Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz.

LESLIE: Yep. First of all, let’s talk about a few roads that you can increase the gap in your bathroom. First of all, think about a reces sink. I know they’re kind of out of the ordinary but they can manufacture your lavatory get a lot of seat that was previously occupied by a pride. They’re pedestal style. There’s wall-mounted. That reces submerge is going to give you some functional attractivenes and again, free up a lot of that storey space.

Now, another option is to add a cabinet-mounted vessel sink. Now, these submerges are mounted on top of a scaled-down cabinet or even a less traditional type of furnishing, like maybe a small, relic dresser. And that can deliver a lot of style and a little of storage in that shower. So it’s providing double-duty, which is great in a small space.

TOM: Now, next, if you’re thinking about changing out your bathroom, perhaps get one that has a WaterSense rating, so it squanders less spray. Look for one that’s got a flat tank top. This is going to give you another storage discern. So whether you situate an organizer directly on top of it or maybe you take advantage of the wall opening above it, for hanging cabinet ministers or for shelving, it’s obviously going to make sense and it’s going to save you some space.

Next, consider adding a curved-quadrant shower unit. Now, you might be thinking, “What the heck is a bowed quadrant? ” Well, these are the shower components that have two straight slopes and they’re organized into a angle and then a arched entering. And that mostly saves at least a square foot or two of infinite, compared against traditional units.

LESLIE: Now, if you’ve got to have a tub, take a look at ones that are smaller but deeper. These are going to offer a great soak with a deep-set seating. There’s even tiny, clawfoot tubs that are an option. And modern fixtures that are was encouraged by traditional Japanese bathtubs are also becoming quite popular.

Of course, coming rid of that old-fashioned tub and making dwelling a brand-new one from the residence centre is a project that requires a big truck or van. But it’s easy to tariff one for the working day from Hertz, who has a wide variety of both.

Now, lastly, use lower-profile faucets and fixtures. You’re going to find that visual seat will open up once you select that low-profile fixture. And while the reach of vogues accessible allows you to beautifully accessorize a small bath, you’re going to notice that added room. It’s those little things that are actually do make a big difference.

TOM: And that’s today’s Better Get a Truck Tip presented by Hertz. For any dwelling project, store pickup or move that needs more than your gondola can treat, recollect HDTV: Hertz Does Trucks and Vans. Book now at

LESLIE: Cindy in Illinois is on the line with a cellar question. What’s going on?

CINDY: I lived in my house for over 40 times and had no trouble with water in the basement. And then, about 3 years ago, we had a frightful shortage here and it seems like ever since then, if we get a hard-boiled rainfall, I end up with water coming up through the storey of the basement.

TOM: So, the reason you’re getting water that comes up through the flooring of the vault in a hard rain is because there’s some imperfection in your drainage milieu outside the house. So, you need to start by looking at the roof and obliging sure your gutter system is clean and manufacturing sure the downspouts are provided away from the house. It should be out 3 or 4 feet.

If that’s all in good shape, then I would take a look at the tilt of the grease around the house, the grade. If it’s genuinely flat or if there’s an area where it’s tilting in or you’re getting neighboring irrigate from runoff from a different bunch or something of that quality, you’ve have to go to regrade to keep the ocean away from the house.

The only way it’s get down there is it’s coming from the transcend and propagandizing under. It’s not a rising water table, because that takes months to happen. If it’s reactive to the rainfall, then it’s a problem with drainage, Cindy. So you need to look carefully in that area and I’m certain you’ll find the cause of it and be enabled to stop it.

Alright. Good fortune with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

LESLIE: Give us a call anytime with your residence reparation or your dwelling better question 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We’re going to help you get in tip-top shape for the holidays right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.

Still ahead, is your garage so full that it hardly fits your car? We’re going to have some tip-off on doing the most of garage space, including an important caution when it comes to collecting kids’ stuff- like motorcycles, clods and plays- after this.

TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Presented by Hey, you’ll never have to worry about overpaying for a errand. Time use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others paid under similar projects. Then get matched with top-rated pros, read reviews and get quotes and diary appointments, all online, free of charge at

LESLIE: And recollect, you can reach Tom and I anytime on our website or at Facebook’s Money Pit sheet. And you can post your questions there.

Now, Sean writes: “I’ve decided I’d like to start parking my vehicle inside the garage.”

TOM: What a concept.

LESLIE: Well, that’s a story concept.

“Do you have any tip-off for organise and placing all the stuff that’s parked in there right now?”

TOM: You know, garage storage is something that really has to be set up once and then maintained daily by all members of the family. So it requires kind of a family commitment. But I ponder the key should be safety. Because if you think about it, the garage is the only place where you have toys and toxins right in the same chamber. So you’ve got to be first careful to make sure you continue that nonsense separate.

So, for toxins, we’re talking about the paint, the oil, the cans of gasoline, the cans of lubricant. All that sort of stuff ought to up high, locked away in cabinets so that the adolescents can’t get their hands on it.

And likewise, from a security perspective, you do want to keep stuff off the field. So, if that symbolizes a ladder, that needs to be hung up on the wall. If it means all the kids’ bats and lumps, you’ve got to hang maybe a net- what do you call those net shipment things, Leslie?

LESLIE: I mean that’s exactly what it is. They’re almost like a hammock.

TOM: It’s called a “net baggage thing? ” Yeah.

LESLIE: Yeah. It’s like a …

TOM: It’s like a- right, it’s like a hammock, yeah.

And that’s an easy thing to do because you get two hookings, you sling the hammock up there and you hurl all the clods in there and they’re off the flooring. Because you are able to go into the infinite at night. Shorter daylights now. You could junket, you could fall. You really want to think about safety and organization. But the bottom line is you’ve got to get everybody to sort of buy into it. Because if not, it’s all going to fall apart awfully, very quickly.

LESLIE: Oh. And it does. I feel like it falls apart every time the boys go in there and take something out. So I’m perpetually doing an upkeep of the garage.

I too like to revolve things seasonally, threw the stuff that we’re exercising more frequently to the front and the stuff we’re not consuming towards the back. You’ve got to really think about the ways that you can use the space so it preserves everybody safe and too sort of instinctively restrains everybody coordinated. That’s the difficult part.

Alright. Next up, we’ve got one here from Ray. Now, Ray writes: “How do you heat and convert an attached garage to a year-round living space for older persons who like it warmer in the winter and cool during the summer? ”

TOM: Well, first of all, I’ve seen a lot of garage changeovers, especially in the 20 year that I deplete as a home inspector, and I’ve rarely seen them done well. Party ever make shortcuts with these things. And if you’re going to alter a garage to living space, you pretty much have to treat it just like an addition. That intends it’s got to include removing the overhead door, you’ve came to reframe the opening, you’ve got to add siding from the outside. You required to build up the foundation so that it’s level across the front, just like the foundation on the rest of your house.

You’re also going to need to deal with the flooring, because garage floorings are ascent, right? So, since this garage floor ascent, it’s going to have to be repoured so that it’s flat. And then, of course, formerly all that’s done you are able to “ve been thinking about” the mechanicals. Think about the bumpy mechanicals, including the heating of the garage. It is not likely, Ray, that your home’s existing plan “il go to” be able to step up to add fairly heat to that garage.

So, if you’re going to take this on, you’ve got to do it right and you’ve have to go to pretty much receiving treatment like it’s an addition to your house. Because only then will you not detract from your residence value and to be provided with a room that is truly livable.

This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. We hope that you are having a really good day. We appreciate you taking part of that to listen to us. If you’re out and about shopping for the anniversary or if you’re doing some last-minute fix-ups, whatever is on your to-do list, it can always be slipped over to ours when you call us, 24/7, at 888 -MONEY-PIT. If we’re not in the studio, we will call you the next time we are. And recollect, you can always post your question online at

I’m Tom Kraeutler.

LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.

TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …

LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.


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