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Mother Nature has a pretty efficient ways to get rid of dead wood, and the combination of Carpenter Ants and Carpenter Bees adds up to a ground & air assault force that can do some pretty serious damage. Here’s what you need to know to stop the wrecking crew.Getting Rid of Carpenter Ants
Carpenter ants don’t actually eat wood, but do plenty of deconstruction work by chewing through it to create nests big enough to house thousands of family members and friends. You’ll only see the occasional forager on the surface or flying around nearby, a sign that they’ve been building their own dangerous Money Pit deep inside yours.
The warm spring and summer months form the most common period for carpenter ant infestations, and these dastardly pests make frequent appearances in the Pacific Northwest and Northeast, as well as along the East Coast all the way down to Florida. They nest in both moist and dry wood, but the former is their preference. As a result, you’ll find that they make most of their visits to damp areas, such as spaces around sinks, tubs, poorly sealed door and window frames, roof leak locations, poorly flushed chimneys, behind dishwashers, and even inside hollow porch columns.
Carpenter ants tend to do most of their work at night, so if you see only a few hanging around during daylight hours, don’t assume the problem is minimal. After they’ve started digging in, they’ll leave piles of sawdust on nearby surfaces such as windowsills and countertops, and at that point, you’ll have no doubt as to who’s moved into the wood.
Over-the-counter treatments don’t do nearly enough to abate these creeping carpenters, so call in the professionals. Like termites, ants can be treated using a new category of pest control products called undetectable liquids, which are able to take best advantage of ants’ social natures through application where the ants are getting to work. The ants then unwittingly carry the chemical around with them, sharing the substance with their nest-mates until the whole colony is wiped out.
To prevent a carpenter ant work site from being established anywhere near your home, here are a few things you can do:
Trim Landscape Outdoors, keep bushes and any creeping ivy vines well-trimmed and away from exterior surfaces. Ivy may look charming but those lush leaves often hide a carpenter ant fantasyland.
Seal Cracks Reduce the risk of moisture buildup by sealing any cracks and leaks in pipes and faucets. Ensure that doors and windows have secure screens, and seal all cracks and crevices around these openings.
Seal Food Keep pet food and people foods such as cereal, pasta and flour in resealable containers with tight lids.
Tidy Up Keep dining areas and kitchens clean and crumb-free. Sweep and vacuum eating areas often to help eliminate possible food sources.
Seal Trash Store garbage in sealed containers, and keep the area around them clean.
These low-flying attack helicopters are very aggressive, and just about the size of bumblebees. They may strafe in your general direction, but they won’t bite or sting. Instead, they’re equipped to drill into wood, usually the softer species of trim woods used for fascia, soffits and fences.
Carpenter bees drill nearly perfect 3/8-inch-wide holes in surfaces and wood end-grain, drop their eggs inside, and work their way back out again before you know what they’ve done. For these clever offenders, get professional help with removal and prevention of future landings. Also consider replacing favored carpenter ant snack foods like facia, soffits and other soft trim with cellular PVC trim boards. These look and cut like wood, but are unaffected by insects.
From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We hope you’re enjoying this Independence weekend. I think that this has been an amazing Fourth of July holiday- because it spanned two entire weekends, Leslie- and we get to wrap it up with The Money Pit. If you’re taking on a project to help you enjoy that outdoor room, you’re in exactly the title place. Give us a ask, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Coming up on today’s curriculum, speaking of outdoor jobs, are you ready to build a man cave or a she shed? These projections are more popular than ever. So we’re going to have some pro tips-off to assist you get wise done right.
LESLIE: And after a couple of months of ponderous grilling, your gas grill might need an extreme makeover of its own. We’re going to have some tips for a simple mid-season grill cleansing to step up the sizzle.
TOM: Plus, house codes exist to keep your family safe but only if you or your contractor be complied with. We’ve came updated information about how to avoid the three most commonly violated codes, just ahead.
LESLIE: But first, we want to talk to you. What is going on in this super-long Fourth of July weekend? Have you taken the whole week off? Are you just persistently working on your fund oppose and chilling out and having a great time? Well, whatever it is, we are here to lend a hand. Whether we’re chilling or not, we’re here for you. Give us a call.
TOM: The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Gayla( sp) in Washington is on the line looking for some cooling solutions. How can we help you today?
GAYLA (sp): So we’re looking at installing air conditioning into our home. And we’re in the Seattle area, so it doesn’t get hot here too much- maybe like one to one-and-a-half months out of the year- but we really need it during that time. And so, we’re not sure if we really want to go the central-air route to get a full system or if- like if we have been able to- we have a gas furnace. If we have been able to get a gas one- or they also has spoken about heating runs. We just don’t actually know what the options are and what’s going to be the best investment in our coin but also going to be effective during those sizzling months.
TOM: OK. How large-scale is your home, Gayla( sp )?
GAYLA (sp): It’s about 2,700 square feet.
TOM: Oh. And you demand the entire house cool and cozy and done evenly?
GAYLA (sp): Yeah, pretty much. The downstairs is already relatively cool but not the upstairs at all.
TOM: And you have a forced-air system right now?
GAYLA (sp): Yes.
TOM: Look, there’s no easy behavior to do this. You’re going to either get a primary air-conditioning structure or you’re not. If you had a smaller house or "youve had" maybe just some restraint, painful areas in the house, then what we might recommend is called a “mini-split ductless, ” which can be used for zones in the house and big-hearted zones, like a two-room combination kind of a thing. But I don’t think - you’re not- certainly not shall be empowered to evenly cool the part first floor or the part second flooring of the chamber of representatives with a mini-split ductless. And candidly, you’d end up needing so many of them that it would be more expensive than putting in a center A/ C system.
So, what we would tell you to do is to go ahead and position a traditional central air-conditioning method, to make sure that the dwelling is sized properly. And so the HVAC contractor can do a heat-loss calculation and figure out exactly how many BTUs you need, in terms of cooling power, to deliver cool temperatures on the hottest daytimes of the summer.
You also just wanted to make sure that the system that you use is an ENERGY STAR-certified system, because that’s going to make a big difference in how much this is going to actually cost you to operate. The good word is is that the system is probably going to last-place twice as long as any other organization in another part of the country because you’re going to use it half as much.
But there’s no inexpensive practice to do this, even though you’re merely consuming it for two months of the year. You’re still going to have to put in a center structure with all the employ that goes with that: buying the compressor, buying the evaporator coil, the condensing coil, the condensing pump, all that sort of thing. It’s a activity, you know? So it’s going to be various thousand dollars to do this. But I would urge you to make sure that you do it right and use the most energy-efficient system probable it is therefore abbreviates your operating cost.
And likewise find out from your regional utility whether or not there are any rebates accessible to you for using energy-efficient equipment. There very well may be; there’s an frightful heap of them sowed about across the country.
GAYLA (sp): OK. Great. Thank you.
TOM: Alright, Gayla( sp )? Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: J.C. in Missouri is on the line with a water-heater issue. Tell us what’s going on.
J.C .: Say, I’ve got a seven-year-old water heater and I have to change my heating element every six months, especially during the wintertime. It builds up a good deal of calcium in it. And I was wondering if you know anything about that or a product that I can use to eliminate that problem.
TOM: Well, if you have mineral salts that are building up a lot, you can use a sea softener. There’s one that doesn’t require any salt and it’s announced EasyWater.
J.C .: OK.
TOM: And it’s an electronic ocean softener that robs up to your main water line. And you push it in and it mostly pushes the mineral deposits to not put. It keeps them liquid or keeps them moving through the spray it is therefore doesn’t stick to water heaters and things of that nature.
That said, I don’t definitely is of the view that mineral-salt deposits are the reason that your electric scrolls are burning out every six months. I wonder if you’ve got a bad quantity of ringlets or you’re buying them all at the same place. I wonder if there is any kind of wavering in the voltage to the water heater. There may be another cause for those to burn out so quickly, because they certainly shouldn’t is being done that. And if you had any kind of mineral buildup, it’s going to be in the bottom of the sea heater , not on the coils.
J.C .: Oh, OK. Yes, I do have that white calcium. Every time I drain the irrigate heater, I have to get something to scrape out the bottom of the sea heater. Yes, you are right about that. Yes, you are right.
TOM: So, "if youre using" a spray softener like EasyWater, I think that that will help.
J.C .: I’m been trying it.
TOM: Good luck with that job. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a scold. Let us know what you are working on, whether it’s a dwelling reparation or increase or decor question. We’re here for you 24 hours a day, 7 days a week at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Up next, as homeowners we’ve always sort of had a love/ hate relationship with our backyard sheds. Everybody loves the extra storage gap but hate the room they look. And building one, well, that’s not as easy as it may seem.
LESLIE: We’re going to have options to help you tackle he sheds, she sheds and even we sheds in today’s Pro Project, presented by HomeAdvisor.com, next.
TOM: Where home answers live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home service pros in your neighbourhood. You can read reviews and book appointments all online.
TOM: Give us a order, right now, with your residence improvement question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. We’d love to help you take on that summer project. Maybe you’re thinking ahead to fall. Whatever’s on your to-do list, slip it over to ours by calling us, right now, at 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: And now we’ve got Kimberly in College Station, Texas with a leaky roof. Tell us what’s going on.
KIMBERLY: We bought the members of this house many years- several years ago. And we had an inspection of the house and we didn’t know that we had a problem with a roof disclose. The supervisor didn’t catch it because the people who owned the chamber of representatives firstly introduced some plastic over the leaking neighborhoods. So where reference is sprinkled, it accommodated sea and we didn’t know that until four or five months afterwards, when we are bought the chamber of representatives. And then our coverage wouldn’t cover anything.
And we’re time- we’ve got more leaks now because the house is getting older. And so, instead of replacing the entire roof, we’re looking for some suggestions on some kind of a shut. And we don’t even know- there’s all these things out there. We don’t know what would be my very best, if there’s anything accessible, or what we should do.
TOM: OK. So, you say that they embrace this with plastic and your home inspector never noticed that it was covered with plastic? I signify duh.
KIMBERLY: No. And it was- it’s on the- up in the inside of the chamber of representatives. And also, they coated the ceiling. They had a 5-gallon can of white ceiling depict in our garage, which- so they kept it submerge all the time, which- nothing capture that. Now, I didn’t meditate anything about it.
TOM: Was this roof accessible? The locality that was covered with plastic?
KIMBERLY: Yes. And he stepped around up there and it- and I guess it hadn’t rained in a while. So, those little sealed-up areas weren’t full of spray at this- at the time.
TOM: Let me ask questions this: is this a ascent roof or a flat ceiling?
TOM: And has it ever been covered with tar or anything like that?
TOM: So the metal is still fresh in the sense that it has never been tarred over?
KIMBERLY: No, it’s not tarred.
TOM: Well, have you had a roofer look at it?
KIMBERLY: We have; we’ve had several. And one told us that it would expense us $6,000 or $7,000 to articulate a shut on it. And now there’s some of those things out there at the home improvement stores. We precisely don’t know if ...
TOM: OK, look, let me make this real easy for you. You don’t close a metal roof; you repair a metal ceiling. Metal roofs can previous 100 years. So, if any roofer is trying to sell you something in a can that he’s going to seal the roof with, that is a disaster waiting for their turn happen, for a lot of reasons.
First of all, it’s not the liberty nature to fix it. Secondly, it actually does more distres than good and here’s why: because when you close a ceiling with tar- a metal ceiling with tar- water still gets in; it gets under the tar and then it quickly rusts the roof away. If you have a roof that is cracked or has rusted out in a piece of orbit, then you repair those; you don’t tar over them like you might, say, an asphalt roof.
So, that’s- what you need to do is to find a roofer who is a craftsman. And I realize that that’s easier said than done. But if you find a roofer that’s a craftsman that really has experience with metal roofs and doesn’t just know how to tear one off- that doesn’t tally as suffer with a metal roof which, regrettably, countless will just say, “Oh, we’ll tear it off and do something else.”
No. If you find somebody that really knows metal ceilings, then that should be completely repairable. And I would not encourage "youve got to" articulated any kind of sealant on it but to figure out where it’s leaking and why it’s leaking and fix it.
You’ve got to dig into it further, Kim. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, homeowners have always had sort of a kindnes/ hate relationship with backyard sheds. Now, we affection the extra storage gap but we hate the action they appear. And building one is really not as easy as it seems. And then maintaining the shed is a job that- it actually feels like it time never purposes. You’re perpetually doing something, whether you’re organizing it or fastening the outside.
TOM: That’s right.
LESLIE: It’s always something. But whether you’re only a little tight on outside storage or perhaps you want to build a she molted or a male cave, there are four important things that you’ve got to consider. We’ve got those gratuities, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: That’s liberty. So, first off, let’s talk about cost. The median cost to build a shed is between 800 and 4,000 horses, depending on the materials you choose and whether you make love as a do-it-yourself project or you hire a pro. But whether you choose to hire a pro or not, the authorities have several fundamental question it is required to ask yourself before you start shopping.
For example, let’s talk about immensity and style. Do you need something that’s particularly simple and utilitarian or do you want something that’s particularly decorative? I want there are many different types of vogues and immensities out there, so you want to evaluate your home and your owned to determine the best style for your needs.
Now, one trick to stir the design fit in is to choose a wording that coincides your home’s roof course. So, really thought about it: if your home has a gable roof, build a shed with a barn-style roof is just not going to look right. It gapes kind of hokie (sp) and out of place.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, if you’ve got a tighten fund, think about designing a simple shed that gets the job done but doesn’t have a lot of flounces. If you’ve got extra jiggle area, you can look for added features, such as integrated shelving inside, decorative decorate on the exterior. Or you are unable to even go all-out man cave or she removed and add some electricity, hot, plumbing, the works.
TOM: Now, let’s talk about lets. You want to make sure you check regional build system to determine if you need a permit to build that shed on your property. Now, there’s really three the different types of lets that have been able to apply: building, mechanical and zoning.
So, building is the structure, right? Mechanical, you would need that if you two are going to add electricity to it or even plumbing. And zoning, that’s the really important one. Because in some municipalities, they restriction how many outbuildings you are unable to build and how many square paws they can be and so on. And you want to make sure that you’re not flouting any of those codes. If you are, it would be atrocious to acquisition this out after you finished your project and then all of a sudden, you get some structure official telling you that you’ve got to tear the whole darn thing down because you’re outside of the building ordinance.
LESLIE: Yeah. And believe me, it happens. So you’ve got to make sure you do your homework.
And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your sphere, liken costs, read attested reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No interest the type of job, HomeAdvisor obligates it fast and easy to hire the best local pros.
LESLIE: Ben in Minnesota, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
BEN: I have a really old house, kind of like what you guys have, and it’s built in the early- probably early 1900 s. Don’t know exactly. But it’s got a rock foundation and we’re in Southwest Minnesota, so the ground does freeze quite deep.
And mostly, the mortar between all of the rocks has pretty much turned to sand. Some places, they worked on re-tuckpointing it here and there. But it’s all various kinds of coming apart again and some of the rock-and-rolls, especially on the corners, are even tipping out a little bit. So I’m trying to figure out what I need to do to fix that, if I need to dig down. I have access to equipment. I work in the HVAC business, so we have lots of equipment and I do lots of stuff on my own. So, just seeing if you guys had any cursors for me.
TOM: So, the foundation is marred or you’re only concerned about the rocks that are sticking out?
BEN: Yeah, well, the foundation isn’t particular damaged; it’s actually pretty solid. It’s exactly that the mortar- since it’s so age-old, the mortar between all of the rocks has deteriorated to the point where it’s almost like sand. You know what I signify? And it time precipitates out from between the rocks.
TOM: So what is required to do is simply to repoint or oust that mortar. Pointing is the act of desegregating up brand-new mortar and attracting out the old-fashioned material and then pressing new mortar into place.
And the type of mortar that you use for repointing is a little stickier than the mortar who had allegedly been done primarily. Generally, it has a bit more lime in it, which tends to make it a bit gooier and it protrudes to the old-fashioned substance pretty well.
So, what you do is you work one section at a time. You do remove all that liberate nonsense and then you repoint it up with new mortar. And that’s pretty much ordinary maintenance with a 1900 footing. You do have to eventually repoint a foundation like that; it’s not peculiar. You can slow-witted it down with proper drainage and things like that but essentially, that’s what we would expect, OK?
BEN: Right, OK. Perfect. Hey, thanks so much better for your time and the advice.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ollie( sp) in South Carolina has a painting and blueprint question. What can we do for you?
OLLIE (sp): I’ve came paneling. I don’t know if it’s laminated paneling or not but it’s got little grooves in it all the way down and it’s darker than the other paneling itself. And I is ready to cover it. Do I have to do something to crowd it in- pipelines or crannies or what you want to call it?
LESLIE: Now, the lines that you’re talking about, those are like the beading. It’s like a decorative facet; it’s supposed to be there. Is that what we’re talking about?
OLLIE (sp): Yeah.
LESLIE: OK. You don’t want to fill that in only because if you try to fill it in with joint deepen or grove filler, it’s just going to dry out, hit, detach. It’s never going to last.
So you various kinds of have to think about it. Can you hug the gape of the paneling, as far as a core element but decorate it a different color and adore that horizontal lining? Or do you simply dislike that so much better that is intended to sort of try to remove it or cover it up?
OLLIE (sp): No, I’d like to leave it if it would make a neat motif, you are aware?
LESLIE: I personally like it. I imagine coated paneling can be very lovely in the freedom type of infinite with the claim type of decor and if you choose a good pigment. Now, the fact that you don’t know whether it’s wood or laminate, that could be a little bit of a concern merely because we want to make sure that you have good adhesion.
So if the finish on the paneling, right now, is a little bit glossy or has a shine to it, you want to use a concoction like a liquid sander. And that’s something that you just obliterate on and it kind of abrades the surface.
First, I’d give it a good cleanse, then I’d delicately abrade it with a liquid sander. Then I would primary it and I would primary it well with a good-quality primer. And then once that’s done, I would paint it. And I truly enjoy the review of a panel that’s in a glossy white-hot. But I think if you go with a neutral coloring and try not to get crazy and just sort of cause it be a neutral background with a decorative detail in it, I think it’ll be great.
OLLIE (sp): I think it would look nice. But thank you. You have a good day.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, now that we’ve been through a couple of months of heavy grilling, your gas grill could need an extreme makeover of its own. We’re going to share some tips for a simple mid-season grill emptying that’s going to step up the sizzle, after this.
TOM: Making good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, regional residence improvement pros for any project. Just going to see HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And we’re standing by to take your requests, your questions, right now, at 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Jo in California is on the line and needs some assist with some bar-stool restoration. Tell us what they look like.
JO: Well, they have wooden forearms and they’re padded, they’re cloth. And then down at the bottom, where the feet are at, they’ve came little wooden rails on them. And I need to redo them. I’ve got them cleansed and touched down and everything. And somebody said I should use spar glos on them and I need to know what to get to put on them- on the wood.
LESLIE: Is there any metal at all? It’s all wood?
JO: No. Everything else is padded.
LESLIE: So all else is fabric.
JO: The arms are grove. It’s got one, two, three, four little metal legs on it, at the bottom, and halfway up. And they’re wood. And I’ve got them prepared to paint but I don’t know what to put on it.
TOM: So you want to refinish the grove in a clearly defined- for the clear finish or a painted finish? A clear finish?
JO: Clear finish.
TOM: OK. So, yeah, I mean you can use spar varnish on it; that’s a penalize concoction. What you’re "re just gonna have to" do, though, is lightly sand all those wood surfaces.
JO: They’re ready. They have already done that.
TOM: You’ve done that. OK. Well, then, you’ve done the hard part if you’ve done all the sanding. But what I would tell you to do is to be very careful to get the varnish exclusively on the wood and not on any of the cushioned arenas or the metal areas.
LESLIE: Yeah. This is going to be about creative masking and taping things off and covering things with plastic and videotape and ...
TOM: Yeah. Because if you get onto on there, you’re going to have a problem. So you want to mask it very carefully to keep it away from the areas where you don’t want the spar varnish to get.
JO: Yeah, OK. And you think that’s the best to get? Because somebody else said, “No, you don’t want to use that. You want to use clear acrylic.”
TOM: Well, glance, it’s a personal preference. The varnish is- I conceive spar varnish is oil-based, which is fine. And it’s actually - you’ll find that the oil-based finishes are somewhat more sturdy in terms of abrasion resistance.
LESLIE: And I think they pass a better sheen, as well.
TOM: Yeah, it’s a good point. Mm-hmm. They take a little longer to baked but they are a tougher finish.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. With the acrylic- “clear hairs, ” as they call it- it’s even available in a scatter I’ve seen. I guess that really kind of depends on how fresh the wood is, how much coverage you crave. Again, disguising is going to be the key here. And you really need to consider how much of a sheen you miss. Think about that, as well, when you’re manufacturing your assortment. Because if you require something that’s super burnished and virtually has that soaking sound, certainly, that oil-based lacquer is the way to go.
TOM: Well, now that we’ve been through a couple of months of heavy grilling, your gas grill is probably ready for a good cleaning. That same charbroiling activity that spices ribs and chickens and steaks and burgers all summer long can really effect some problems if you don’t stop seldom and do a thorough clean just once in a while. Now, it’s a pretty simple project, so we’re going to walk you through it.
The first thing you want to do is soak those grids in hot, soapy liquid and clean-living them with a nylon rubbing pad. Now, if the grids are really encrusted, a little subterfuge is to use oven cleaner on them. Of track, do that in a well ventilated area and then rinse them clean.
Next, if your grill has lava cliff or ceramic briquettes, you want to take them out, clean them gently with a cable brush and you want to replace any who the hell is deteriorated. I’ve found in the past that sometimes, when you make the graze to these, they literally come apart in your hands. And that’s probably a good thing for you to know. Because if they’re that deteriorated, they do need to be replaced. So, give them a cover, supplant any you need to.
And then carefully are searching for sounds, separates, seams or pits in those burners. If any are procured, the burner should immediately be replaced. I actually did a total burner replacement on a grill, that was probably about 10 years old, last-place summer and I was amazed how easy it was to find the roles. And now it designs perfectly.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, next, you’ve got to check all of those rubber hoses. They’re not meant to last forever and during the winter months, things can be endangered. So you want to look for fissures and supplant any that show the slightest ratify of wear.
Now, once the grill cleaning is complete, you’re ready to leant that grill back together. And check all of those gas alliances for any openings that could have happened. So, to safely do this, you want to mix a 50/50 answer of liquid dishwashing soap and irrigate. And then brush such a solution on all of the gas connects and watch for suds. Now, if any froths are read, that means that connection is leaking and you’ve got to fix it before you fire that grill back up. Otherwise, it could be super dangerous.
TOM: Yep. And once you’re done, you are specified for a time of more sizzling steaks and burgers and all else that makes barbecuing great.
LESLIE: Nells in Oregon, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
NELLS: I’ve got a problem with flies. We have three heat gushes in the house and it makes in the air at the base of the windows. And every year, we get flies that come up out of those return canals. There’s electronic filters down there and I can’t imagine where they’re coming from or ...
TOM: Well, they may be nesting in the house and they’re birthing themselves right into existence. And the reason they’re probably hanging out around the return pipes is because that’s where air comes chosen into the furnace and they just might be part of that airflow.
I can’t certainly diagnose exactly what you need to do to get rid of those but I do know individual that are in a position. And if you go to the Orkin website, our depict expert is a guy mentioned Greg Baumann, who I’ve known for numerous years. He used to be the expert for the National Pest Management Association; now he’s the director of training for Orkin. They have an expert section on their website and if you announce that question there and maybe even articulated a photograph of the flies, I’m sure that you’ll be able to get to the bottom of it very quickly.
NELLS: Enormous. Okie-dokie.
TOM: Alright? Good fortune with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You know, guys, construct codes exist to keep your family safe but only if you or your contractor follow them. We’ve got updates on how you can avoid paying three most commonly violated codes, next.
TOM: Where dwelling mixtures live, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
You are sung to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show presentation by HomeAdvisor.com. You never have to worry about overpaying for a place again. Only use their Genuine Cost Guide to see what others have paid for similar campaigns and then you can get matched with top-rated pros, spoke evaluations, get repeats and notebook appointments, all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
TOM: And we’re standing by to make your home increase questions this Independence weekend. If you are still celebrating, we are right there with you. So afford us a announce, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Tim in Iowa has a wood-finishing question. How can we help you?
TIM: I’ve got an old-fashioned home. It’s got fir floors. I have acquired some restored fir flooring to put in an addition, to try and match up the rest of the house. The question I have is- this is gonna be the first floor that I redo in the house, so I kind of wanted to- whatever I do, I want to do it in the rest of the house.
But the question I have is on the clear finish. I know a lot of different companionships are making a water-based clear. And my second question is whether- or as far as durability, whether if something of that product would be durable.
And then also, I have a couple of hounds that I’m worried about him claw scratches, as far as sheen leads. I know the shinier it is, the easier- the more scrapings "youre seeing". So, I’m inquisitive if there’s anything out there that glints good and will resist scratches.
TOM: Yeah. I entail I have always were of the view that oil-based floor finishes are key. Any time I’ve tried to use a water-based floor finish, it doesn’t seem to have the soundnes. So I would definitely recommend an oil-based floor finish, like a polyurethane.
And in terms of sheen, I think that semi-gloss is what you want, not high gloss because that just goes to show. Not simply does it depict scratches, it depicts a good deal of clay easier. But semi-gloss or satin is a beautiful color to have.
So I imagine the answer is oil-based, satin polyurethane is the solution.
TIM: Is there various kinds of a two-part epoxy one that’s even more durable than the polyurethane or ...?
TOM: The authorities have. There are two-part finishes like that. Professional floor installers do call those, like when they do sort of gym floors and that kind of stuff. But it’s not sort of an over-the-counter purchase. You’d got to get to a flooring-finish supply company.
LESLIE: Oh, yeah. And that’s going to have to be applied in a manner where you’re certainly thinking about ventilation and protection of yourself, because that’s a moderately corrosive material.
TIM: Alright. Thank you very much, guys.
TOM: Well, improving systems help make sure that the work that’s done to your live is safe. But information systems exclusively cultivates if you follow it. I had an rare ordeal , not too long ago, when I received a letter from my neighbourhood structure district tell people that an petroleum barrel I had removed, I had done so without having a permit on it. And I thought, “Wow, that’s truly odd. How could I have perhaps have taken an part petroleum tank out without a permit?” The funny thing about this is not only did I have a permit but I did this as part of a live television shoot for the regional report station.
TOM: And the building inspector was on the demonstrate with me inspecting it. I had proof. But somehow, they speculated I did it without a permit. I don’t know what happened to the records but I, very nicely, clarified that to them and they highly sheepishly said, “We’re sorry.” But the point is if you’re going to do some of these things, you’ve got to have a permit. It’s there for a reason, because these building inspectors will help made to ensure that the work done is done safe. It maintains the importance in your residence and reaches sure that nothing is going to catch fire or get yourself in disturb later on.
And there are a number of common misconceptions that are made with house codes. I made this might be a good time to sort those out.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, there are actually three common suburban codes that tend to be regularly overlooked. Now, the first one involves handrails that are prepared on a wall. These kind of handrails must have what’s called a “return” on them. Now, a return is a piece at the end of the rail that turns and goes back to the wall. It’s going to keep things like your t-shirt sleeves and handbag directs from getting caught on the handrail and then potentially making you to fall down.
And speaking of handrails, open handrails are no longer stood. You do need to have spindles or balusters and they need to be spaced no more than 6 inches apart.
TOM: Now, another generally missed building code has to do with smoke alarms. For existing homes, you need to have one on every statu of your house and outside each bedroom. Plus, you’ve got to make sure they all work.
Now, if you’re building a brand-new house, there’s a new code that requires that you have a smoke alarm in every bedroom, as well. And those need to be hardwired with a battery backup and there is a requirement to interconnected. Now, what that means is if one "re going away", they all go off, which is important.
LESLIE: Now, here’s a last one that tends to be violated a good deal, extremely if you live in an older home. It tends to be missing or have imperfect ground-fault circuit interrupters. This is a problem, guys.
Now, a ground-fault circuit interrupter, or GFCI, is going to cut strength to a circuit if it detects a recreation of current to a ground, which is you if you’re getting a scandalize. Now, GFCI protection is are necessary to channels in the kitchen, lavatory, garage and for all of your outdoor circuits. Basically, if there’s a chance it could be in contact with water, you’ve got to have the GFCI. It’s got a test button built in, which should be tested monthly. And if you don’t have any GFCIs, it is a smart-alecky safe betterment to add them.
A friend of mine, Liz- who you’ve gratified, Tom- is doing an improvement on her house. And they’re doing a big renovation. It’s an age-old house that belonged to the grandmother. And during the process, they’ve was revealed that the cable is so old-fashioned and it was going to be an additional expense. And I could not tell them enough. I’m like, “This is not whatever it is you shortchange things. It’s an old house. You’re investing in it. Do it right.”
So, you’ve got to do it. The electrical organization is super important.
TOM: Yeah. And by the way, there’s another type of electric receptacle now or circuit breaker called an “arc-fault detector.” And that not only protects against collapses but also protects you if one of the cables starts to short or arc. That could induce a barrage. So, take advantage of this new technology and be safe rather than sorry.
LESLIE: Still ahead, can shimmer light-headeds be a sign that you have a perilous electrical organisation? The refute is: it depends.
TOM: Where dwelling answers live, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the telephone, give us a scold, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a activity. Just use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others paid for similar projects. That’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: And recollect, you can always post your question in The Money Pit’s Community segment. And we jump into those every hour on the show.
Now, I’ve got one here from Kevin in New York who writes: “My home was built in 1969 and the upstairs light-coloreds sometimes glint when I first turn them on. It stops after a few seconds but I’m concerned. Should I be? ”
TOM: Well, let’s talk about that, Kevin, because why, first, do lamps flicker? The intellect they flicker is because the electrical circuit, even if they are the switch is on, is going off and on and off and on and off and on. Now, if that’s not happening at the permutation, where is it happening? Well, it could be happening inside the switch, inside the connection, inside the cabling because there is a short somewhere. So, yes, "youre supposed" concerned. It’s potentially dangerous.
Now, there’s one other factor, though, that you should consider. Because you told us that your home was constructed in 1969 and I "ve got to know", because I’ve got- I don’t recollect what I had for dinner but I have this encyclopedic knowledge of home increase. And I could be said that from 1965 through about 1972, there was a wide quantity of aluminum wiring done in this country- huge amount- for branch tours. That’s beacons and shops and substitutions, right? The smaller wires? And the aluminum wiring, the reason is it’s not done anymore- because it turned out that it had such a high expansion-and-contraction rate that the connections would tighten, then they are able to arc and inspire and effect attacks. So, this is definitely areas of concern with your room. You need to get a pro to check it out quick.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post now from Kate. Now, Kate writes: “My refrigerator isn’t working well. And I’m wondering if I should call in a repairman to have the refrigerator repaired or just start over with a brand-new refrigerator. It’s simply a few years old and I’ve been fortunate with it up until now but it’s also out of warranty at this point.”
TOM: Ah, that’s a really tough spot to be in because, let’s face it, having person come to your home to make a repair like that is expensive. And the cost of the appliances is going down. I intend if we’re says something about a super high-end refrigerator here, then it’s probably worth it. But if it’s just like, say, a refrigerator that’s, I don’t know, six or seven or eight years old and maybe it would expense well under $1,000 to change it, I’d be dared to simply change it.
Because, usually, if you call a repairman out, they’ve got to come- there’s a charge for that first visit, right- diagnose what’s going on, then they’ve got to order parts and they’ve got to come back another time and articulated those segments in. So by the time you’re done, it’s unlikely that you’ll have even a basic mend that costs you less than 300 or 400 horses. So, personally, I feel like you’re better off replacing it.
Now, we have, actually, a show that we developed to sort out these possibilities, on MoneyPit.com. Just Google “repair versus replace.” And it takes into consideration persons under the age of the gizmo, the amount of the potential repair and the cost to replace it and then kind of gives you a disappear/ no-go gauge, in terms of whether or not you should repair it or replace it. But you’re genuinely trying to compare the senility and the hazards of future flop with the cost of a new one or the costs of just staying kind of where you are. It’s all of these different factors kind of poised together to help you out.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, Kate, I had a similar problem with my fridge, which was a lot older than yours, about 14 times. And I simply decided to go buy a brand-new one and I adoration it.
TOM: The question is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Thank you so much better for spending this hour with us. We hope that we’ve granted you some independence from your residence improvement projects on this Independence Day weekend. If you’ve get questions, though, be borne in mind that we never take the day off. We’re always available, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t "re going to have to" make love alone.
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