TOM: Coast to sea-coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And what are you doing on this beautiful spring weekend? If you’re working on your live, you are in the right place because that’s what we’re doing. We’re going to work on your house, more. Help yourself, though, by picking up the phone and calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974. We will take your questions about anything having to do with dwelling improvement, decor, remodeling, inside or out, floorboards to shingles. We exist on the weekend really to help you guys take on those residence improvement job and get them done right. The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up this hour, we’re going to help you save some money, as well. Did you know that some big dwelling betters can help you section your homeowners insurance costs? We’re going to help say to you what the hell are you is therefore necessary to do time that and chip those down to size.
LESLIE: And if your kitchen cabinet are get older or simply require a pick-me-up, you don’t inevitably have to rupture them all out. We’ve got tips to get a brand-new look for your boards without break-dance the bank, coming up.
TOM: And is your home ready for a new countryside? Well, that’s a profession that’s often DIY. But if you’re ready for a landscape that’s going to totally convert your home’s exterior, that is a project best turn left to a pro. We’ll share some gratuities on how to decide.
LESLIE: Plus, this hour, we’re giving away precisely what you need to have a lush lawn this summer. We’ve got a supply of Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer from Bonide worth 47 bucks.
TOM: Disappearing out to one caller proceed at random. Establish us a call right now. That number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Bruce in Oregon is on the line with a woodpecker question. What is going on at your fund quarry?
BRUCE: Well, we have a live that’s get cedar-shake placing on it. And it’s aged delicately but woodpeckers have recently realized that between the lower weakens, where they come together, sow flaws can slither up behind a perfectly good shingle. And they appear to drill right through that good shingle to get at that moist, little bug.
TOM: Wow. Well, that stenches. And you’re title: they’re looking for menu. That’s why a woodpecker pecks, because he’s trying to find a meal.
So, one thing might be to treat the surfacing to stop these faults from various kinds of getting in there. Another thing that are typically offices and- but it’s various kinds of harassing. And that is that if you, around the area of the siding, can hang some tin pie plates that kind of bust in the breeze, maybe in the region where they love to sort of congregate. Or the other thing that seems to scare them away is if "youre supposed to" take a black- large-hearted, black, plastic- garbage bag, like a big Hefty bag, and cut it into rows but sort of leave the pinnacle of it intact so it would sort of flit, that also will discourage them. And I think you have to break their garb, Bruce. And those two tips-off can do that.
Now, if you want to try something natural but- if you were to mix up a red-hot sauce or pick up an oversized bottle of it at the supermarket and desegregate it with some water, made it in a pump-up plot sprayer and spray down the siding- only make sure, when it’s done, it’s not going to discolor the siding- they get one preference of that, they will not go back for any more of those glitches. I can guarantee that.
So there’s a couple of ways to try to dissuade them but you’re going to have to break their garb. Otherwise, they’re going to see keep going for that easy meal right below the lip of the cedar.
BRUCE: I’m not kind of wild about establishing the house smell like a strong bouillabaisse. I’ve tried owl likeness, the fiberglass genu of replicas.
BRUCE: They’ve actually roosted on those at times, so they’re pretty tolerant of that.
TOM: “So there! ”
LESLIE: They’re so terrifying.
BRUCE: And I’ve tried some of the things gesticulating in the breeze. Do you have a suggestion for a siding medication that won’t be quite so evident to visitors to our home?
TOM: Well, sound, Bruce, if you don’t want to try the hot sauce- and I personally would establish it a shot because I think it’s going to be very inexpensive and I don’t think it’s going to stay around, impel your whole live stink like a eatery- there’s two interesting thing that you might want to think about. Bird* B* Gone has a woodpecker-repellant kit that has very good examines on Amazon. But it’s not quite; it’s kind of along the same line of the tin pie plates and the plastic Hefty bags sort of floating in the wind. But they’ve exploited different types of bags and streamers that are very shiny, which is what kind of freaks them out. But they do say that once the woodpeckers have left the siding, you can remove these. So you’re not talking about a permanent addition to being able to your house.
And there’s too some chemical repellants for woodpeckers, although I have to say that I have not visualized very good remembers on them. It seems to be 50/50 and they’re kind of expensive.
So that’s sort of where we’re at with that. You’ve got to sort of undermine that round and I think you may have to put up with some unattractive trinkets while you’re work now. But I would leave those a shot, because they’re not very expensive and you’ve got nothing to lose.
BRUCE: Well, I’ve tried squirt guns and that works while I’m home. But I’ll tell you, I guess I actually started the hertz where reference is put suet out. And it seems as though the swine started asking equal parts of suet and fiber. And they got the fiber from our cedar shingles.
BRUCE: So, we stopped doing the suet and it departed down some but it’s still here.
BRUCE: So, thank you for your opinion. I regard it.
TOM: Alright. Good luck, Bruce. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Donna in Tennessee has got a funky guesthouse. Let’s just call it that.
What’s going on, Donna?
DONNA: We have been in this property- on this property- for two-and-a-half years. And when we acquired the belonging, the guesthouse had holders. And they moved out a bit over a year-and-a-half ago. However, there’s a very funky odor in the house that, instead of fading over meter, is becoming more and more prevalent. The odor is best described, perhaps, as a stale cologne, so it’s not very pleasant.
LESLIE: Stale cologne. That’s interesting because, generally, when you get a funky odor in a infinite that’s not exercised that often, it usually has something to do with a subside not coming water down it and the bunker drying out and sewer gases coming back up. So you could get a funky sewer stench but cologne? Are you sure the members of this house isn’t recurred?
DONNA: We did pull up any carpeting that was in the members of this house. And there wasn’t this is something that; it was just in the bedroom and the bathroom. The remain of the storeys are lumber and tile.
TOM: Have you done any make-up hitherto?
DONNA: No. It had been- it was fairly recently covered prior to starting our purchasing the house and so I didn’t. However, after the tenants moved out, I really thoroughly cleansed the members of this house. Actually, we moved all the appliances, everything like that. But I haven’t repainted.
TOM: Well, I’ve got to tell you that sometimes when a house is empty, it is often used to get a little dank sometimes. Are you running the heating system the lane you would if somebody was living there?
TOM: Yeah. So you get more moisture and sometimes there could be odors associated with that. So unless it’s actually pervasive, I don’t thoughts I would worry too much about it. You’re doing the right things. You pulled up the carpet. If you haven’t painted and you’re going to see draw, I would suggest one added stair and that is to make sure you prime the walls. Because if there’s anything in the walls, that they are able to barrier it.
DONNA: Mm-hmm. What type of primer?
TOM: Well, you could use an alkyd primer, which is a water-based primer, or you could use an oil-based primer: something like KILZ or B-I-N or one of the Behr commodities. But the primer is kind of the adhesive that attains the paint stick and will too seal in any blots that have absorbed into the walls themselves.
DONNA: OK. So if it is the cover, then the primer could actually ...
TOM: Right, precisely. In detail, sometimes we tell people that when they have carpets that are very odorous, to also prime the plywood floor before they put brand-new carpet back down again.
DONNA: Hmm. OK.
TOM: Because if anything kind of immersed through the carpet and got into the floor, that’s a acces to kind of close it off.
DONNA: OK. Very good.
TOM: Good luck with that project, Donna. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are chanted to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on breeze and online at MoneyPit.com. Impart us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, where it’s easy to find top-rated, local home improvement pros for any dwelling campaign. Thought on over to HomeAdvisor.com.
Coming up on The Money Pit, did you know that some small-minded betters can help you save on homeowners assurance? We’re going to see have tips to help you trim those insurance costs, next.
TOM: Shaping good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on this beautiful springtime weekend? We’re now to help if it has to do with your house. The amount is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
And if you cause us a order, right now, you’ll get the responses to your home betterment question, plus a chance at triumphing accurately what you need to have for a lush, green lawn this summer because we’re presenting away the Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer RTS. That’s the ready-to-spray, quart-size bottle. It’s worth about 47 bucks because it gives up to 20,000 square foot or a 1/2 -acre lawn. There’s no mixing. You only fix it up to the end of your hose. It’s automatically going to mingle at the remedy rate.
That Bonide Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer RTS is worth 47 bucks. It’s going out to one listener pump at random. Establish that you. Pick up the phone and leave us a announce, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Bruce in Tennessee has some furry friends- and I signify some ferret furry friends- and necessitates some promotion picking flooring. What’s going on?
BRUCE: Yeah, yeah. I’ve went seven ferrets that are taking a hard line on my carpet. And I want to change it and I speculated, “Well, I might want to try something different.”
TOM: Seven ferrets, huh?
BRUCE: Yes, sir.
TOM: So you’re go looking for ferret-proof flooring, Bruce.
BRUCE: Something like that, yeah. Some theories, absolutely.
TOM: Sure. Well, I signify- so, you’re basically looking for a pet-resistant floor and that rules out natural hardwood and of course, carpet. But you’ll be happy to know that there are a lot of synthetic product today that are perfect.
One that comes to mind is announced “engineered vinyl plank.” It’s one of the newest flooring produces on the market. And I’ve got to tell you, this substance is really amazing because it looks just like the real thing. It looked like wood. They’ve just done so well with the technology behind attaining engineered vinyl timber that it discontinues up come through here ogling really like the real batch. And it’s also pretty cheap. So, you might want to take a look at the products that are available in that EVP family.
The other one to be considered is laminate. But I guess, if I was thinking about laminate versus EVP, I’d probably go with EVP because it’s 100 -percent waterproof. And I think it might be a bit more durable. You can go to a locate like Lumber Liquidators, to one of their showrooms, and take a look at some of the samples. I think you’ll be surprised with how good-looking this nonsense is. And it certainly would be something that could take a lot of reward. It makes the wear and tear as well as, of course, it’s not going to deteriorate in any way if it gets wet.
BRUCE: What kind of installation are we talking about with it?
TOM: It’s pretty much DIY. You could hire a pro. But it’s got a tongue-and-groove stratum. It’s sort of a lock seam, like most of those makes do. It’s floating, so you don’t is therefore necessary to glue it down. You basically extend advantage to perimeter. If "youve had" baseboard molding, I would go within about 1/4 - to 3/8 -inch of the baseboard molding, leave a bit of a gap and comprise it with shoe molding so you have some swelling and contraction.
TOM: But it’s pretty easy to do. You’ve got to make sure the floor is nice flat. If you’ve got a lot of immerses and movements in the flooring, there are certain long-sufferings that each manufacturer will specify for those commodities. And exactly make sure you’re within those indulgences. But I foresee if you take a look at the EVP flooring, that might be a good mixture for you and for your ferrets.
And I will tell you this is the first time I’ve ever go a few questions about ferret-proof flooring.
BRUCE: I feel one of the reasons I was looking at the vinyl or the laminate- I’ve discovered some the group of friends of- there’s a- think it is or not, there’s a lot of good ferret Facebook groups out there. And there’s millions of us that talk back and forth. And I reflect I’ve interpreted some folks take that vinyl or laminate and kind of heat it and leave it a little bit of a crouch up on the edges, and then placed the molding perhaps 1/8 -inch from the flooring or something and yield it almost a tub accomplish in the room.
TOM: You mean kind of have it bend up? I wouldn’t do that.
TOM: Nah, I think you’re asking questions difficulty. There’s no flooring manufacturer that’s going to see warrant that. It’s exclusively designed to be installed flat. Parties get imaginative with stuff like this but that’s unquestionably outside its scope of application to seeing how that material is designed to be used.
BRUCE: That’s what I’m thinking. That’s why I wanted to ask you guys. I figured you guys right now are aware of but it’s exactly kind of a- I is believed that people were thinking is pet-proofing or spill-proofing, shall we say.
TOM: Yep. I hear you.
BRUCE: OK. I’ll look for that. And you said Lumber Liquidators, as well, right?
TOM: Yeah, they’ll have it. It’s EVP- engineered vinyl plank. OK?
BRUCE: Resonates great.
TOM: Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
BRUCE: Thank you, sir.
LESLIE: Well, if you’re would be interested to take the edge off your monthly legislations, you might be able to squeeze some extra savings from a surprising target. Get this, people: your homeowners coverage bill.
Now, it does require some upfront spending. But if you vest it in the best place, you’re going to be looking at savings for years to come.
TOM: Yeah. And here’s why: insurance companies are going to end up paid under a lot for irrigate mar, so they figure it’s smart to reinforce you with lower rates for obliging sure it precisely doesn’t happen in the first place. So, what could you do to help prevent spray problems?
Well, first of all, if you’ve get rubber hoses on your drying machine, "youre supposed to" replace those with no-burst, braided, stainless-steel hoses. And that’ll save you about 10 percent on your premium.
LESLIE: Now, if you live in an area that’s prone to high winds, a tougher garage door can lash your monthly fees. Install a hurricane-resistant door or buy a retrofit solution that’s going to strengthen your existing one and you’ll examine some savings.
TOM: Yep. And eventually, jump on this one to get rid of that backyard trampoline. Owning one sometimes means you’re going to pay a nuisance blame of up to 150 bucks per program. You might want to reach out to your broker to ask what other types of progress you are able to form that will reduce that payment. There’s usually a whole index of them that go along with these policies. And looking into that can really save you some bucks month after month after month.
LESLIE: Janet in South Carolina is working on a kitchen makeover. How can we help you?
JANET: I have a kitchen. It’s not a very large kitchen but the walls have been depicted numerous eras and not the best colour jobs. So, I have decided to perhaps lend some type of wood to kind of devote it a rustic feel, because I really like that, on the entire walls of the kitchen. And I was wondering, could you propose to me something I could use? I’ve had beings suggest beadboard, the wainscot-type board. Could you show to me something to give on my walls to grant it that rustic ogle?
LESLIE: Let’s talk about your wording of rustic, because there’s so many different ways to interpret that. And beadboard’s a great highway to do a actually classic, more country look, extremely if you draw it a white gloss. That merely tends to be really clean. But if you’re go looking for more something- you know, something more natural or an age-y fragment of timber, there’s ways to do that, too.
JANET: That’s it. I want to go with a illuminate, natural-looking wood. Not more light-headed because my boards are the lighter colouring of wood.
LESLIE: Well, what you can do is you can actually get- and this would have a nice finish to it. You can look at flooring- wood-plank flooring. And you can get one that has sort of a white-hot, rustic, beachy laundry to it. And you can even go with a vinyl flooring, because that’s going to be super easy to install. And you are able to install the timbers instantly to your wall. And you can do that with an adhesive, you can do that with a double-sided videotape. There’s so many different ways you can fix it to the wall, depending on the value of the product itself. And that- if you introduce that on with the timbers loping vertically or horizontally, that can give a different kind of rustic look in comparison to the beadboard.
Now, it seems to me looks just like you want to go storey to ceiling with this. Is this correct?
JANET: That’s right. I do. Now, I do have closets that do not go all the direction up to the ceiling.
LESLIE: Well, I think that’s OK, because you’re generally addressed with maybe a foot to 18 inches of cavity up there. And that’s really not terrible. You can keep that as a painted surface and precisely decorate up there with some very clean baskets or something exactly to give you a little bit of extra storage, plus to disguise that infinite a little bit. But I picture the beadboard is an excellent idea and that’s a very easy do-it-yourself project.
Using a wood-flooring commodity, whether it’s vinyl or actual wood, there’s a company- Tom, is it Timberchic, I visualize, is the specify?
TOM: Yes. Mm-hmm. That’s right.
LESLIE: And they do actual pieces of reclaimed log, almost like a veneer. And that you can attach to the walls. But I’ve done it with that VCR: that vinyl tile that looks like a lumber board. I’ve done that for an HGTV show in a variety of different finishes, horizontally on the wall. And that makes a great, rustic search. So it depends on what your rendering of rustic is.
JANET: OK, OK. Would you advocate now- would you propose to put it over the cabinets, also? Or you stated to maybe leave it only painted? Or could I report that, too?
LESLIE: You can. If you feel confident- if you’re using a wood-flooring planking concoction, you’re likely going to get two or three sections in there without having to do any slice. If you’re doing a beadboard, that’s something you’re going to have to cut down to that exact altitude and position up there. It depends on how much of it you see from the flooring and what you feel comfortable with. I think if you’re going to do it, do it full out. But if you’re not self-confident in your abilities or it’s too high or you don’t truly see it, then I think there’s other ways to disguise it with some decorative accessories.
JANET: OK. I understand. OK, enormous. Well, thank you for your ideas.
TOM: You’re welcome, Janet. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Up next, kitchen makeovers can cost you bigs but they don’t is therefore necessary to. We’re going to tell you how to get that new kitchen examine without devoting brand-new kitchen fund. That and more when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Where home answers live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we’d love to hear what you’re working on in your money oppose. Impart us a call right now. We’ll lend a hand. The numeral is 888-MONEY-PIT. That’s presented by HomeAdvisor. You can get instantly paired with top-rated pros for any dwelling campaign and bible appointments online for free.
888-666-3974. Who’s next?
LESLIE: Tom, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
TOM( CALLER ): Going to have brand-new ditches put up on the house. And I’m thinking about putting gutter lookouts on. Now, the neighbours has gutter police similar to the one that I’ve decided on. But he’s got about the same lurch roof as I have- a 4/12 -pitch roof- and the gutters are the same. They slope. And he’s had real good luck with that. I’ve read it for 20 years and there’s no problem at all with foliages and stuff collecting.
Now, the salesman says you don’t requirement a descent. He said his species are flat. And I just wonder if that’s true-blue. Do you need a ascent or not?
TOM: So, the gutter cover that your neighbour has is ascent or tilted. And the one that the salesman is selling for your house is flat and not tilted. Is that remedy?
TOM( CALLER ): That’s right. I’m going to get a 6-inch size so that the back side would be 2 inches higher than the front side.
TOM: The only problem I’ve viewed with gutter covers is when you have a really strong rainstorm and the rainfall leads down the roof very quickly. And then it thumps the gutter cover and ricochets off and simply obstruct disappearing. I think that whether you have a slight pitch to that gutter cover or if it’s flat likely won’t make a big difference but I do think you need some lurch. I think if it’s thoroughly flat, it can run backwards and towards the house, maybe perhaps even get into the fascia. So I think you surely require some tar. I wouldn’t draw a big distinction in making sure you have to have a lot of pitch.
Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, kitchens are one neighbourhood in the members of this house where most of us invest a great deal of time. And that’s an understatement; I feel like we’re always all in our kitchens, all the darn hour. But if you ever feel like your kitchen cabinet are dated, drab, gloomy, it’s probably not your favorite area to hang out in.
Now, the very best story is that there are some options for getting a new look without undermining the bank. Those alternatives include superseding, refacing or really refinishing cabinet ministers. We’ve got advice on all three.
TOM: Yep. So, firstly, let’s just review the difference. Replacing, of course, is really that: you snap it out, you start again. Replace when you want to reconfigure- that’s the bottom line- or when the existing boxes are actually junky and falling apart.
Now, refacing is when you just resurface the cabinets, say, with brand-new doors and drawer breasts and equipment. That can be a lot less expensive but it can really make a pretty dramatic change without smashing the bank.
LESLIE: So, how do you determine if your kitchen is a candidate for refacing? Well, you have to be happy with the existing configuration, because refacing doesn’t change the scheme or add any brand-new lockers. And cabinet ministers should be good quality, structurally speaking. For precedent, there’s no smell refacing a cabinet that’s not going to see stand up for a while.
TOM: Yep. And refinishing a cabinet is possibly your most cost-effective move, since repainting or restaining is a great DIY project that delivers good results. And with the veer in locker colorings, like gray-headed and lily-white and blue-bloodeds, depicting is an inexpensive option that can really give your kitchen a modern regard quite simply.
LESLIE: Ann in North Dakota, you’re on The Money Pit. How can we help you?
ANN: I am living in a house that is over 100 years old and it has an open staircase. The difficulty is is that there is a bedroom that is above the staircase and adjoins it at the top. And part of that bedroom is cantilevered brutally and then wholly over the open staircase. And I have a big crack that’s developing on an open locality. And that area is cantilevered out about 6 hoofs from a load-supporting wall.
And I don’t know if I can time patch it or if I need to gave a foundation rafter or jack or something underneath it, because this area is getting somewhat worrisome. I’ve got two fissures that are about 3/8 -inch and nice long.
TOM: So, Ann, are these new crannies or has it always been cracked?
ANN: It’s always been cracked but it’s been a hairline for many years.
TOM: Oh, boy.
ANN: And then we had a massive flood.
TOM: How long ago was the flood?
ANN: That was in' 97. And then the dirt has been shifting ever since. Since that inundate, the fractures have gotten bigger. That was in' 97.
TOM: When we have fractures in walls and organizations and things like that, we always like to determine if they’re active or inactive. Because, frankly, all residences have fissures. If "youre telling me" that over the last 20 or so times that this fracture has opened from a hairline to 3/8-inch, it might be active. I’m not actually convinced of that hitherto but I am concerned enough to tell you that "youre supposed to" should have it looked at by an expert.
What I’d like you to do is go to the website for the American Society of Home Inspectors; that’s ASHI- -AS-H-I-. com. And find a home inspector in your place- there’s a zip-code sorting tool there- that’s a member of ASHI. And talk to two or three of them and been identified that specializes in structural issues like this and using them to appear at it. And see if we can determine, based on such a inspection, whether or not this is an active, ongoing place or only a sound in an aged, plaster wall that needs to be fixed.
It’s not exceptional for old homes to have lots of sounds in their own homes and extremely around a staircase, because exactly the way residences were made back then is different than they would be today. And so, that’s not an peculiar range for fractures to develop. But I think we need to determine- for your own kind of stability, if nothing else- whether or not this is active and ongoing or something that’s really only historical. Does that make sense?
ANN: It sure does.
TOM: Alright, Ann. Good luck with that activity. Thank so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, is your home ready for a brand-new landscape? Well, landscaping is a responsibility that’s often DIY. But if you’re ready for a landscape that’s going to totally change your home’s exterior, that’s perhap a project best left to a pro. We’re going to share some tips-off on how to decide, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com, after this.
TOM: Where home solutions live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Utter us a see with your home improvement, your decor, your remodeling question, your restore question, your maintenance question, whatever you need to to get out of here around your room. The multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it cost to do your home project before you hire a pro and instant record one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
And if you do give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT, you can get not only your question refuted but an opportunity at acquiring exactly what you need to have a lush lawn this summer from Bonide. We’re giving away the Weed Beater Ultra Lawn Weed Killer RTS. That’s ready to spray. It’s the quart size and it contains enough cloth to discus 20,000 square feet of lawn. That’s about a 1/2 -acre. There’s no mixing. You only fix it up to the end of the hose. It’s automatically going to assortment at the correct frequency and it’s going to control over 200 every kind of broad-leaf grass in your lawn.
It’s worth 47 horses and going out to one listener drawn at random. Procreate that you. Pick up the phone, call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Mary in Massachusetts is on the line with a ridge-vent question. How can we help you today?
MARY: My house is 70 years old. In experience, it needed to be re-shingled. So the roofer clarified now "theyre using" crest vent-hole and they opened the center of the roof. And it( audio chink) great and I was happy with the shingles but I do not like that bank volcano( audio spread ). It’s like having an open window. Is there a road I can close that?
TOM: No. That is doing exactly what it’s intended to do and exactly what it "re going to have to" do, Mary. You know, we all grew up with homes that were grossly under-ventilated. But if your attic is freshened perfectly, it is appropriate to be the same temperature as the outside. It is not a conditioned gap; it is unconditioned. So the heat is trapped at the floor stage where you have insulation but the ridge vent is designed to let air out of the attic where it’s most likely to exit.
So, for example, if your house is cooled perfectly, the wind is going to blow over the roof, it’s going to depressurize the crest and pull air out of the attic from that seat. It attracts out moisture in the wintertime; it pulls out heat in the summertime.
And the other half of that are soffit vents at the overhang. These working in conjunction to properly freshen a roof. So you’ve really never experienced a properly cooled attic but that is exactly what ridge volcanoes are supposed to do. And I would not change them if you are do, you’re get to have a number of issues to crop up.
Number one, you’ll have moisture that will build up in the attic. And what that they are able to do is realize the insulation far less effective. If you include just 2-percent moisture to fiberglass insulation, it loses about a third of its resistance to heat loss. Secondly, in the summertime, you’ll have excess heat, which will manufacture cool the house that much more expensive. So, I wouldn’t do a thing.
MARY: Hmm. OK. I was strange. I’m not thrilled with it but I suspect I have to live with it.
TOM: Yep. Get been applied to it. It’s doing its hassle, Mary, OK?
MARY: Thank you.
TOM: Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well , now that we’re outside more, are you detect that your home is ready for a brand-new landscape ? Well, landscaping is a undertaking that’s frequently DIY. But if you’re "re ready for" a landscape that’s entirely going to see transform your home’s exterior, that’s a project that’s best turn left to a pro. We’re going to share some tips on how to decide, in today’s Pro Project being submitted by HomeAdvisor.
TOM: Well, whether you’re moving into a new room or informing the reasons for his your home that you already lives in, landscaping clearly can dramatically change the glance of both your house and your asset. And it can add some value.
Now, if it’s well done, of course- and according to the True Cost Guide, which is on HomeAdvisor.com, landscaping costs are going to see vary pretty widely. But most homeowners are going to report expending between $1,414 and $5,299. So, that’s a big range.
LESLIE: Yeah, that is a big collection but I signify landscaping is thoroughly transformative. Now, before you call the pros, here’s a few things to think about that’s going to see significance the cost of the project.
First of all, the single biggest taken into account in the costs of the new landscaping facility is the size of your quality. If your house sits on a huge fortune, you might want to tackle it in slice rather than all at once. There’s actually a strategy to approach this, too.
Now, professional landscapers can advise you on what weeds take the longest to grow and will have you plant those first. They’ll help you come up with a plan to sort of spread this out over time.
TOM: This style, it’ll all "re coming" delightful and dark-green at the same time.
Now, you also have to decide if you miss a lawn. Now, a lawn’s not expensive to put in initially but it can take more coin in the long run, in terms of irrigate, duration and strive. And the same runs for gardens. It’s best to embed that seat now- it’s best to mean that infinite now, I should say- so you don’t end up embed a lawn that are able to later need to be torn up for a plot. That would just be kind of a wasted effort.
LESLIE: Now, other options is xeriscaping. Now, this is a style of landscaping that utilizes plants, shrubs, groundcovers and rocks that need very few irrigate to thrive. The cost of install an xeriscape yard is often more than simply embed grass and heydays, because you’re getting specialized floras and things. But the maintenance and liquid costs are kept low and that’s by design.
TOM: Now, it’s also important to plan space for terrace or decks, even when you don’t improve them right away. Outdoor living, it’s never been more popular. So now is definitely the time to decide what your future outdoor-living room might look like, even though they are building it out is, say, a year or two off.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. It’s ever good to be thinking what that next pace is for that outdoor space.
And finally, perhaps the most important thing for a health future of your countryside is liquid and irrigation. Now, this is the time to install a automatic sprinkler. You can level the soil to shunned runoff. And planning which seeds, shrubs or blooms are going to get more or less water are all precautions that may take more age and coin in the short term. But these are the things that’s going to give your lawn and garden-variety the best chance to thrive.
TOM: And by the lane, if you find meaning all this out is various kinds of immense, one thing you could consider doing is to hire a landscape architect.
Now, just like an inventor that designs a home, landscape architects do the same thing for sceneries and they could be well worth the small investment. When we moved into our residence, it had been in the family for countless, many years but my family before me didn’t genuinely do a whole lot of landscaping. And we kind of wanted to accompanied it all together, so I employed a landscape architect. And I’ve got to tell you what, 20, 25 years later, it still ogles as good as the day we set it down. So I got a lot of value out of getting that good planning advice up front.
And that’s today’s Pro Project being submitted by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get is compatible with top-rated home work pros in your arena, speak verified reviews and diary appointments online, all for free.
LESLIE: Up next, accommodation and municipality living doesn’t mean you’ve got to miss out on homegrown fruits and veggies. We’re going to see tell you how you’ll be able to enjoy your own bountiful harvest, with tips on apartment gardening, next.
TOM: Forming good residences better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here for you, to help you with your home improvement projects. Contribute us a order, right now, at 888 -MONEY-PIT being submitted by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a occupation. Use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to consider what others paid for a similar job. That’s all for free at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: And intelligence on over to MoneyPit.com where you can upright your questions about whatever it is that you are currently tackling at your region. And I’ve got a post here from Jack who writes: “We own a 1920 -era tract residence with floor-structure issues in both the bath and the kitchen. The house is in need of a complete and major remodel with new kitchen and soap. What are the best steps to take to ensure we plan for the right work to be done the right way?”
TOM: Well, that looks just like a very cool campaign. You’re remedy to be worried about starting this and discontinuing it the right way. Since there are some concerns about such structures, I think your best first step is to get the help of an architect.
You know, designers are very good the resources necessary used to help laying out the seats of the project. And this space, when it is necessary to hiring the contractor, you already know what it is the project’s going to see entail. What most people do is the reverse: they bring in the contractor first and then they get all sorts of different ideas and they get mystified and all the contractors are bidding on different projects. And it genuinely utters it hard to sort of compare apples to apples.
And the inventor can also be used used to help prepare the way for those tricky infinites, as well as those areas like kitchens and soaks. And they’re going to have some good the recommendations on how to proceed with any work who are in need of structural matters, including checking by a civil engineer.
A good region to start perceiving an architect is with professional organizations like, say, the American Institute of Architects, which provides for specific certifications in many areas for its members.
So, a very cool assignment. Good luck and is ensured to share the finished work with us.
LESLIE: Jack, can’t wait to see that. Good luck, Jack.
TOM: Well, it’s that time of year when we get to trading in our blizzard scoops for a smooth and get to work on a garden-variety. But if you’re short on seat, there are still ways to rehearsal that green thumb. Leslie has some details, in today’s copy of Leslie’s Last-place Word.
LESLIE: Yeah. This is a trend that I enjoy and I’m seeing these vertical-wall gardens sounding up everywhere: airport sofas, shopping malls, diners, Tv depicts, nightclubs. They’re everywhere and they’re gorgeous.
Now, wall garden-varieties, they can help soothe an apartment that maybe has a rough periphery to it or might feel too modern. You can also use a trellis or a grid and weed any kind of vine to give you that same wall-climbing vertical garden.
Now, here’s another idea: their home communities garden-variety. Being are changing unused pieces of country in their vicinity into gourmet gardens of fresh cause. It’s a great nature to get to know your neighbors, because everyone takes a turn at tending to the garden-variety. And everybody derives the wages of the glean. Lots of ways to feel like you’re sort of a gardener/ outside party in an urban environment.
Roof plots are also gaining notoriety. Not simply are they a great behavior to create city microclimates but they likewise can create an oasis in the city.
Finally, hanging bowls are back. If you ask me, they never vanished anywhere; they’ve just sort of changed in their wording and the type of flowers that you put in them. But these hanging potted weeds are likely to be hung on a balcony or a hall. And you are able to settle anything in them, like strawberries, tomatoes, beautiful buds, vines. All things are dazzling. And if you can bring any sort of light-green outdoorsy-ness to your apartment cavity or your insignificant, little outdoor gap in whatever apartment-living place you are in, we’re happy to help you do so.
If you require some more thoughts, really intelligence on over to MoneyPit.com. You’re going to find an archive full of gardening thoughts for homes and apartments.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the program, do you want a shaded formation that accompanies vogue and relaxation to your backyard scenery ? Well, a pergola is a perfect is planning to do only that. We’ll have some gratuities and advice on how to get that done in your backyard, on the very next volume of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No segment of this transcript or audio enter may be reproduced in any format without the represent written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc .)
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Happy Fall. We hope that you are tackling lots of fun home improvement projects this weekend. And if it’s not fun, well, maybe we can help you out. So give us a call with your home improvement questions, your décor dilemmas, your smart-home challenges.
I always think, every time I hook up a smart-home piece of equipment, that the house is smarter than I am, Leslie.
LESLIE: You have to be pretty smart to make it all work, though, I’ve got to tell you.
TOM: You do, you do. But whatever is going on in your money pit, we’d love to help you step it up, spruce it up, fix it up, decorate it up. But help yourself first: pick up the phone, give us a call, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s show, a wet fall brings the potential for a dangerous invader to hit your house. It’s mold. We’re going to have some tips to help you identify and clean mold. And we’re going to talk about what might be covered by your homeowners insurance.
LESLIE: And if you’re lucky enough to have a sprinkler system for your lawn, now is the time when that system needs to be winterized. You don’t want to see what happens when it’s not. Trust me. It happened to Tom one time and it was a real mess. We’re going to explain what needs to happen, to avoid a frozen mess, in just a bit.
TOM: And if you love the look of greenery around the outside of your house but it seems that you’ve only got a black thumb when it comes to getting greenery to flourish inside your home, we’re going to have a solution.
LESLIE: But to kick things off, we want to hear from you. So, give us a call. Let us know what you are working on, gearing up for the busiest time of the year at home. It’s the holiday season just around the corner, so let us give you a hand. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Joe in Rhode Island, you’ve got The Money Pit. What’s going on with your insulation?
JOE: Well, we built a new home.
JOE: And it’s 2×6 construction with a truss roof.
TOM: OK. Yep.
JOE: And I used opened-cell, sprayed-in insulation and they come in and then they shave it all down to the studs.
TOM: Yep. Yep.
JOE: So, we have a completely sealed envelope of the structure itself.
JOE: Now, when – it’s a truss roof, so there’s really no attic. But there is a space up there.
JOE: When you sheetrock the whole ceiling and close that off, do I need to be concerned with some sort of ventilation in the attic space?
TOM: No, not at all. Not at all.
Where did they insulate in the attic? Did they insulate under the roof itself or …?
JOE: They insulated the roof, right to the plywood roof.
TOM: Yeah. Nope, you absolutely do not need to ventilate a spray-foam house and here’s why: because, basically, now that attic is a conditioned space.
I have a spray-foamed attic. It’s terrific because it’s pretty much the same temperature as the rest of the house all the time. It used to be that it was, you know, super hot in the summer and really cold in the winter. Now, it’s pretty much even-steven. And the fact that you used spray foam means that it expanded and sealed all the little cracks and gaps and crevices, so you’re not going to have any problems with drafts getting in there.
TOM: So you do not need to ventilate that roof.
JOE: Oh. How about – we have mechanical equipment up there. I have the air-conditioning unit up there.
TOM: Yep. Mm-hmm.
JOE: No concerns with that, in that space, either?
TOM: No. It’ll even work better because now, when it’s trying to cool in the summer, it’s not going to be doing so in an attic space that’s 110 degrees.
JOE: Alright. I was concerned because there’s absolutely no ridge vent, no soffit vent and no …
TOM: Yeah. No, that is done correctly. And we have to start thinking differently. Now, we use attic ventilation when we use products like fiberglass, because we have to manage the moisture. But with spray foam, ventilation is not an issue. That is now a conditioned part of your house, just like any room in your house.
TOM: You may not have heating ducts up there but it does not need to be ventilated.
TOM: Alright? That’s a good choice.
JOE: Alright. Alright. Very good.
TOM: Good luck, Joe. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got June on the line with a question about a metal roof.
What’s going on, June?
JUNE: Yes. I have a home that was built in 1972. It’s a pier-and-beam. I’m told it’s a modular home and I wanted to put a metal roof on it.
JUNE: And my daughter tells me she doesn’t think it’s strong enough to hold up a metal roof. And so, I …
TOM: A metal roof is going to weigh not that much more than an asphalt-shingle roof. And if you didn’t put a metal roof on, you’d put a second layer of asphalt on. Then it would be really heavy. So I would tell you to take off the old roof shingles and go ahead and put the metal roof on. I mean it is the most durable roof. It really lasts virtually indefinitely if it’s done right. So, I think it’s a great idea.
JUNE: That’s what I thought.
TOM: And I doubt, very much, that you’re going to have any issues with the strength of the building. If it’s been standing up since 1972, I’d say that it definitely needs a new roof and it certainly should be plenty strong to hold a metal roof. It’s a great choice.
And the metal roof, the finishes today, too, especially in your part of the country where it’s quite warm, they have reflective paint finishes on them. So they actually make the home cooler and it makes it easier to cool in the summertime.
JUNE: Can they leave the old shingles on and just put it over the top of it?
TOM: They can but I do not recommend it. You should always take the old shingles off. It’s a much better job.
JUNE: Oh, OK.
TOM: Alright. Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
JUNE: Thank you very much.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT. Let us know what you are working on. We are here to give you a hand.
888-MONEY-PIT is presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home service pros in your area. You can read reviews and book appointments online.
TOM: Up next, if you’ve got a sprinkler system, now is the time to get it winterized. Done well, you won’t have any issues but done poorly, you might end up with a few unexpected geysers come spring. We’ll have tips to get it done the right way, after this.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We’d love to talk with you about what’s going on in your money pit. Give us a call, right now, on The Money Pit’s listener line at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
LESLIE: You can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your area and read verified reviews and even book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No matter the type of job, HomeAdvisor makes it fast and easy to hire the best local pros.
LESLIE: Chris in Louisiana is on the line and needs help with a driveway project. Tell us what’s going on.
CHRIS: Well, I have an old, concrete driveway that’s got a few cracks in it.
CHRIS: I would imagine those could be patched up with something like QUIKRETE. But what I’m basically asking about is extending the driveway from where it sort of slopes down to the ground, which is above the street level. And there’s about maybe a gap of 12 feet, perhaps, between the end of the driveway, which sort of feathers down. And then I’d like to extend it down towards the street so my property is about maybe 2 feet higher – eh, not quite that. Almost 2 feet.
TOM: So what’d they do? Run out of concrete the first time they poured the driveway?
CHRIS: No. We don’t have any sidewalks, so this would go over the area where there would be a sidewalk if they had sidewalks.
CHRIS: So I’m asking if concrete’s a better material to use or asphalt or perhaps something else, even?
TOM: Oh, no. I think you – since you have a concrete driveway right now, I would clearly extend it using more concrete. I would repair those cracks in the surface. There is a QUIKRETE concrete-repair product that comes in a caulk tube for those small cracks.
And you could also consider using one of the resurfacing products that are available so that now you’ll have a brand-new driveway and an old driveway. And if you resurface that driveway, it’s kind of like stucco. And they’re specially designed to stick to the old concrete. Then the whole thing will look brand new and it’ll all kind of match.
CHRIS: OK. And do you have to wet that down first or …?
TOM: Yeah, you just follow the instructions. There’s a …
CHRIS: What’s that product called?
TOM: It’s made by QUIKRETE and I think it’s called Sand/Topping Mix or something like that.
CHRIS: OK. And I can get that at a home center?
TOM: Home centers. You know, take a look at the QUIKRETE website. They’ve got some great videos there on all of these projects.
CHRIS: OK. Now, how about the extension? Do I need to build a form or just lay concrete down and kind of pack it in?
TOM: No. Have you ever poured concrete yourself before?
CHRIS: A little bit but mostly just for small projects, like walks and stuff.
TOM: Well, you know what? This is a pretty big project and since you haven’t done it before, I would recommend that you get a mason to help you. It’s a little bit different to handle this amount of concrete. You’re going to need a fair amount of it.
But basically, the way the project goes is they do build forms that hold the concrete in at the end. And with a 12-foot section, they’re going to probably put an expansion joint in between. So you pour the first section and then you have the expansion joints in there. Then you pour the second section.
You’ve got to shake the concrete and treat the concrete and finish the concrete so that the rocks fall down to the bottom and sort of the smoothest mud comes up to the top. Then you’ve got to put a finish in it so it’s not slippery. And you usually do that with a very coarse broom. So, it’s not the kind of first-time concrete project that I would recommend to somebody.
CHRIS: At least that gives me an idea what to aim for. OK. Well, thanks a lot. I always enjoy your program on the weekends, when I hear it.
TOM: Well, thanks very much, Chris. We appreciate that and good luck with that project.
LESLIE: Well, sprinkler systems are a luxury that affords you a green lawn and garden all spring and summer long. And truly, it really is a fantastic thing to have at your house, because you will never forget to water anything ever again.
But if you live in a climate where they need to be winterized, it’s a job that has to be done right or you could be faced with a big repair bill when spring comes along.
TOM: Now, we once had a little bit of a sprinkler emergency. I think it was more of a communication breakdown, because I could’ve sworn that my sprinkler contractor had come and blown out the sprinklers for the season. But alas, he did not. And we learned this when the sprinkler lines burst and the water was on and we had just a gusher happening inside of our yard. It was quite a pond. A frozen lake would be the best way to describe it. So, it really is important, this time of year, to get that done.
Now, there are really three ways to winterize a sprinkler system. You can do it manually, you can do it automatically and you can do what we just call a “blowout.” And the first step in all cases, though, is turning off the water supply.
Now, if you do it manually, you want to open the manual drain valves and allow the water to drain. And by the way, water – sometimes the water, it’s still under a lot of pressure, it comes out very, very quickly at first.
And then you can also use an automatic system, if you’ve got these special types of automatic drain valves. They’re going to be located at the end and the low points of irrigation piping. These open by themselves, automatically. They drain water if the pressure in the pipe is less than 10 pounds per square inch. So to activate them, you just shut off the irrigation water supply and it pretty much does the rest for you.
LESLIE: Now, there’s one other way you can do it, which is have a pro come by and do it. And they blow it out by using forced air. And that really makes sure that all of the water is completely removed from the line. There’s a service fee for that. You may sign up for a yearly service package to keep the costs down. But they’ll also renew any permits you might need, check backflow valves, all the other stuff that you need to do, as well, for the sprinkler system.
TOM: And it’s always good to have a pro shut the sprinkler system off because most of the reputable pros, if they mess up something it’s going to turn up in the spring. So, when they come to turn the system back on, they’ll just fix it without any kind of an emergency charge.
So, get it done right, you won’t end up with your own version of the Frozen movie is the bottom line here.
LESLIE: Alright. We’ve got Denise on the line. What’s going on? You’ve got Woody Woodpeckers pecking away at your house?
DENISE: Sure do.
TOM: Alright. So what kind of damage is this little guy causing?
DENISE: Well, I don’t live in there – that home; I’m in another state. My son’s there. And he’s hit two or three sides of the house.
DENISE: So, my son has put little pieces of wood up there. It’s a manufactured home, so don’t ask me what the siding is. I don’t know. I’m sure you do. But they just make new holes.
TOM: Right. Yeah.
DENISE: So he was thinking he – we’ve investigated products and the manufacturer actually says, “No, it won’t work.” And so, we’ve come down to some kind of a stone facing. And I don’t know anything about that. I don’t know …
TOM: Well, first of all, if we’re talking about replacing siding, then you’re probably talking about a product like HardiePlank, which is a great product. And it’s basically a cementitious board that can look like wood, frankly – I’ve got it on my garage; it looks great – but you can’t get birds, like woodpeckers, or bugs that can destroy it.
But before we go there, let me give you some real simple things to try, which I’ve had very good success with over the years. So, you want to dissuade this woodpecker or pack of woodpeckers from working on that side of your house. It’s just a matter of habit. You know, the reason they peck the wood is because they’re looking for worms and they have no idea that there’s no worms inside the wood that’s being used to side your house.
If you were to cut strips of black plastic – let’s say you had a Hefty bag and you cut it into 2-inch strips – and you were to attach some of the strips in that area, the fluttering of those strips will dissuade the woodpeckers from coming back. And if you leave it up there for a couple months and then take it down, the problem might go away.
The other thing that works is shiny discs, like tin pie plates. When those sort of twist in the breeze, they also can dissuade woodpeckers. But I like the black plastic strips because they’re not quite as obvious and they’re really easy to do.
TOM: So, if you were to go up there with that and tack them in place in that area, I think you may find that the woodpeckers are confused by that and might just go and take on somebody else’s house down the street. But at least they’ll leave yours alone.
DENISE: Mm-hmm. We have tried aluminum foil strips and that didn’t work.
TOM: Mm-hmm. Yeah, I don’t know about the strips. I’ve always used pie plates – pie tins.
TOM: But I would try the black plastic strips. I think you’ll have success with that.
DENISE: So, can you – if it’s not, what kind of siding can he put up to dissuade these little buggers?
TOM: Well, if you want a siding that they’re not going to be able to get through, then I would suggest HardiePlank – H-a-r-d-i-e-P-l-a-n-k.
TOM: They have clapboard, they have shingles. It’s really nice stuff. Take a look at the HardiePlank website and you’ll be able to see lots of photos of homes that have been covered with it.
DENISE: Does it come in sections, like 4 feet wide or …?
TOM: It comes in different types of siding profiles, so the clapboard or the shingle, for example. They have many different types but you can take a look at their – maybe you’ll find one that’s close to what you have. And you can use it for a repair product, too.
Alright, Denise? Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’re welcoming Tim from Illinois to The Money Pit with a water-heating question. What’s going on?
TIM: Oh, I have a nine-year-old water tank and I’m trying to get the rod that collects all the minerals out. And it didn’t want to come, so I was afraid to have busted some pipes. So I was curious, should I just – should leave it alone? And with it being nine years old, it’s almost at the end of its life as far as the water tank. Because I understand that water tanks are usually from 8 to 12 years for a replacement?
TOM: Yeah. So you’re – you’ve been trying to replace the anode and having a hard time getting it out, correct?
TIM: Yeah. I think it’s rusted in or I …
TOM: Sometimes, you have to put – get a little leverage on the wrench to do that. And once you get the wrench on the anode, sometimes you have to kind of extend that wrench handle to really get that out. It’s a bit of a tricky job. But considering the age of the tank, I probably wouldn’t spend much money on it because I think you’re right: 10, 12 years is a pretty average life expectancy for a standard water heater.
And when it comes time to replace the water heater, you might even decide to upgrade it and go with a tankless water heater, which is going to last you a lot longer and be far more efficient.
TIM: And that might be a good choice for me because I’m single and no one else lives in the household and I’m gone most of the time.
TOM: Yeah, well, that’s the difference between a tankless water heater and a standard water heater: the water heater is kind of dumb. It just – it heats the water 24/7 whether you need it or not. And when the water cools down, it comes back on and heats it some more.
A tankless water heater is going to heat on demand. And so, because that’s going to be a lot more efficient for a single guy – but even a big family with teenage daughters, for example, that don’t know the meaning of a short shower, they never run out of hot water when they have tankless. Could just – works very well in both extremes.
TIM: So how much is something like – cost for installation and so forth?
TOM: Well, if you compare it against a high-efficiency, tanked water heater, it’s similar. But if you compare it against a standard, sort of low-efficiency, it’s probably going to be about twice as much. But it will last longer, too, and you’re going to save money on the energy bills, too.
TIM: I thank you for your time. And I love your show and your advice is well worth listening to.
LESLIE: You are tuned to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show. Coming up, a wet fall brings the potential for a dangerous invader to your house this winter: mold. But is cleanup a safe DIY project? Kevin O’Connor from This Old House is joining us with tips, next.
TOM: And This Old House on The Money Pit is presented by ADT. Introducing ADT Go, the new family mobile safety app and service. Get ADT Go with 24/7 emergency response with any ADT security system. Go to ADT.com to learn more today.
Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: What are you working on now that Halloween has passed? Is it a project around your house? Are you cleaning up the rotten pumpkins? Did you have any Mischief Night mischief that you have to kind of clean up now? You got some smashed jack-o’-lanterns on the sidewalk? Whatever is going on in your money pit, we’d love to help you tackle those projects. Whether they’re décor, maintenance, cleaning, give us a call. Let’s chat about it. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or you can post your question to The Money Pit’s Community page at MoneyPit.com.
And if you call us at 888-MONEY-PIT, our number is presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the right pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
LESLIE: Alright. We’re headed over to South Carolina now. We’ve got Dennis on the line.
Hey, Dennis. What are you working on?
DENNIS: I bought a house in Illinois, a house that was built in 1845.
DENNIS: It’s got 2-foot-thick walls and it’s layered stone.
TOM: OK. OK.
DENNIS: My question to you is: what would you – what type of mortar would you recommend to put in that, in this old stone home? So that –because I mean over the years, people have tried to put some mortar in some of it – some of the mortar that’s fallen out and it cracked.
TOM: Right. Right.
DENNIS: But it’s all different colors. It looks goofy. I want to – I’d really like to make it uniform.
DENNIS: And what mix of sand and mortar would you recommend?
TOM: Well, usually for exterior and above-grade walls, you’d use a type of mortar called an N – N as in Nancy – an “N mortar mix.” It has a medium sort of compressive strength and it’s made of one part of Portland cement, one part lime and six parts of sand. It’s pretty easy to work with.
And you can also buy premade mortar mix from QUIKRETE. For example, they sell a type N mortar mix and they sell it in different colors. I think gray is the base color. So, you might want to take a look at that.
TOM: But I think what you’re looking for is type N mortar for stone walls.
Good luck with that project. That sounds really fun and I’m sure it’s a beautiful home. We appreciate you calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, even the cleanest of homes can have mold and we’re not just talking about the mold that covers the uneaten of leftovers from last week. You know, besides being unsightly, mold can cause major and even permanent health problems.
TOM: That’s right. But what do you do if you find mold or suspect that you have mold? The host of This Old House, Kevin O’Connor, is here to walk us through it.
So, Kevin, if we suspect that we have mold or we spot something that looks moldy, is it a do-it-yourself project to clean it up?
KEVIN: Well, I hate to say it but it depends.
KEVIN: And here are a couple things to think about. First of all, mold can pose serious health issues. So, if you are allergic to mold or if you have respiratory problems or a suppressed immune system, you should not be getting rid of the mold yourself.
Now, if you don’t have those health issues, then you want to think about how much mold do you have and where is it. If the mold covers, say, 10 to 30 square feet, that’s about the size of a 4×8 sheet of plywood, well, then you can probably get rid of it yourself.
KEVIN: If it’s a bigger area than that, you want to call in a professional.
And if you can see where the mold is, well, then you can probably get rid of it yourself. But if you’re afraid that it’s gotten behind the walls into places that you can’t see, that’s when you might want to think about calling in a professional, as well.
TOM: And I think it’s important to note that even if you are going to do it yourself, you want to follow some basic guidelines. And the New York City Department of Health actually has some of those guidelines online that are very helpful.
KEVIN: They do. So does OSHA. And basically, some of those guidelines say eye protection, gloves and a respirator whenever working with mold.
LESLIE: Now, if you do attempt to sort of tackle this do-it-yourself cleanup of mold, should you first identify what kind of mold that you have, to even see if you should do it yourself? Or if you’ve got it, get rid of it?
KEVIN: I don’t think you should bother with a mold test. I mean there are literally thousands and tens of thousands of different kinds of mold out there. Mold is a problem when it’s in concentrations and when it’s in our house. And so it doesn’t matter, really, what kind of mold it is; you want to get rid of it. So spend your time and money getting rid of the mold, as opposed to determining which kind you have.
TOM: Now, if you are going to hire a pro, it’s a challenge today, more so than ever before, to find somebody who really specializes in that.
KEVIN: And I think that’s the key. I think you do want to find someone who specializes in this. Someone might have done a great job renovating your kitchen and they might be a fantastic contractor but they should be trained in mold mitigation. And so not every contractor out there is right for this job.
I would suggest that you go to a couple different organizations that certify folks. There’s the American Indoor Air Quality Council and the Indoor Air Quality Association. That’s a good place to start when looking for a qualified contractor.
TOM: Now, what about insurance coverage for mold? Is that standard today or not? Or is it just another thing that they try to weasel out of?
KEVIN: Well, in terms of insurance, I think the answer there, also, is: it depends. It really depends on which – what kind of a policy you have. And I will say that you need to be aware that some insurance companies require additional riders for mold. So read the fine print and know what you’re getting into.
LESLIE: Now, what about once you’ve got the mold situation under control, what can you do to make sure that this doesn’t come back and isn’t a recurring problem?
KEVIN: Well, mold needs three things to grow and live: it needs oxygen, it needs food and it needs water. Deprive it of any one of those three things and you won’t have mold come back.
Now, it’s very – well, it’s impossible to deprive it of oxygen.
KEVIN: And it’s hard to deprive it of food, because it likes anything organic and it loves cellulose, so we’re talking 2x4s, we’re talking the paper on the backing of insulation and drywall. So, get rid of the water. No water? No mold.
TOM: Fix the leaks.
KEVIN: Fix the leaks, keep the house dry and you’re not going to have a mold problem.
TOM: Good advice. Kevin O’Connor, the host of TV’s This Old House, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
KEVIN: My pleasure to be here.
LESLIE: You can catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For your local listings and a step-by-step video on mold removal and other projects, visit ThisOldHouse.com
TOM: And Ask This Old House is brought to you on PBS by Gorilla Glue.
Up next, if you’re sorry to see the green fade away as winter approaches, we’ve got some tips on the best plants for inside your home, to last the entire season, after this.
Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And I know you like the mouse named Mickey but for the other mice in your life, not so much. I hear you had a visitor. What happened?
LESLIE: It’s a new roommate. I’m going to go with roommate.
I swear this thing is smarter than everybody else who lives in this house, which is me and my kids. So, it could definitely be smarter. But it’s the tiniest, cutest, little brown mouse with these tiny, little pink ears. And he’s very sweet. And every night, he walks right into my bedroom and then walks behind a dresser and disappears in my closet.
TOM: Oh, man.
LESLIE: And I can’t tell you how many little holes I’ve found around the house with the boys that we’ve plugged up with steel wool. I don’t leave the dog food out overnight. I have cleaned up everything. I put some traps under the dresser. I now have watched the mouse walk around the dresser completely and go back to where it’s going.
TOM: Smart mouse.
LESLIE: I don’t know what to do. And it’s so bad that I’ve finally gotten to a point where I’m like, “You know, I watch these Outlander– and Game of Throne-type shows where they interact with mice in their daily life.” I’m like, “I’m just going to sleep normal, knowing that there’s potentially a mouse walking around my bedroom.” It’s just not bothering me anymore.
TOM: Oh, man. What about bait stations? Maybe you should pick up a small bait station, give the mouse a little bit of food and they’ll just go away once and for all.
LESLIE: I have those – they’re mini-versions of a Havahart. It’s the ones that you can relocate the mouse. I don’t want to hurt it.
TOM: Alright. Yeah, I guess you’re too nice to use that kind of thing. But you said you did some traps. But the traps are not the kind that eradicate the mouse, huh? They just – you try to catch them?
LESLIE: No, it’s like, “Go inside this little house and then I’ll take you outside. And then you could come right back in.”
TOM: Did you put any food in it?
LESLIE: I did. I put peanut butter in one. I put a chocolate bar in the other, because it ate a chocolate bar.
TOM: You’re too nice. But OK, well, you let us know how that works out. And if you really get frustrated, I might suggest a different type of trap.
LESLIE: That roommate doesn’t invite other roommates over. I’m convinced that the one I see is just one.
TOM: You never know. You never know.
LESLIE: It’s just one. Only one.
TOM: At a time.
LESLIE: Well, if you’d like to choose the best plants for inside your home this winter, the first step is really knowing your house. You’ve got to know which room gets west, north, east, all that type of sun, southern exposure. Is that room sunny in the morning or in the afternoon? And then, once you kind of know the pattern of sunlight and warmth in your home, then you can choose the plants.
TOM: Yeah. Now, the best type of houseplants are not always those that are most popular but they’re those that are going to work best in varying levels of low to bright light.
First of all, the popular ones, like the ficus, not a very practical plant for a house. They’re difficult to maintain, they have to be grown in full sunlight and they do drop a lot of dense foliage.
We had a ficus tree, which is absolutely beautiful, in my first house. And I loved it. It was just gorgeous except it was just such a pain in the neck to take care of, because we’d always be picking up the leaves and it would leave sort of this gooey stuff that would get on the bark, like sap. And it was just a pain in the neck. So, it didn’t last more than about a year.
Now, the best alternative, though, to ficus is a Kentia palm. It’s popular in parlors and dens of Victorian homes. Each leaf is gradually smaller on each palm frond, so it’s got a very rich, green color. It’s elegant looking. And also, the Lady palm is a good choice because each leaf is kind of like a lady’s hands, with a paper-like texture.
LESLIE: Well, isn’t that super delicate, Tom, and so ladylike?
TOM: Real ladylike, yeah.
LESLIE: Another good option that I think some people have more luck with than others are orchids, especially if you seek out the moth orchid. The flowers are going to last for months. It’s really easy to maintain. They don’t need a ton of sunlight and they’re super gorgeous when they are flowering.
And let me tell you, when the flowers go away, if somehow you can make it figure out how to reflower, reach out to me and help me figure that out. Because one time I trained – you know how orchids have those little roots that come out?
LESLIE: I trained one up the little stick that the flower branch grows off of. And after six months, I went to the nursery and was like, “Why? Why will this not flower?” And he was like, “That’s the root.” So, orchids take special work but they are gorgeous. And if you could get the knack, it’s worth it.
Now, I think another thing people struggle with is when a plant is thriving in your house and it just sort of grows and grows and really fills that pot. So, how do you know when to repot it and how to do it? Well, if your plant isn’t absorbing water – either it’s just full of roots or you see that it’s not absorbing any water and it’s just ending out in the dish underneath the pot, there’s really no place for that water to go – it could be time to repot that plant.
So, in general, you want to go up about 2 inches in pot size. Then you want to use potting soil. Don’t be confused with topsoil, because you use that outside. You want to use rocks or even pieces of a broken clay pot to line a pot with holes in the bottom. This way, the dirt isn’t clogging the holes and the plant can actually drain, which it needs to to stay healthy. Then you go ahead and add soil almost to the rim, add your plant, fill with dirt to cover. Water it thoroughly. I would never dare to do it because I always feel like I kill everything but I have a girlfriend who is so gifted with greenery, she’ll take one that’s overgrown the pot and cut it into smaller sections and make them into more plants. God love her, she’s amazing at it but I can’t do it. I wish I could.
TOM: If you’d like some more tips on how to keep your plants kicking all winter long, check out our post, “13 Hard to Kill Houseplants.” It’s online, right now, at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Matt in Wisconsin who’s dealing with a splashy toilet. That is the worst: constantly cleaning a toilet seat. Tell us what’s going on.
MATT: Well, when we flush the toilet, a good portion of air comes up through the trap, forcefully enough to cause the water to splash up onto the seat or the inside of the lid if it’s closed.
TOM: Well, what really causes that, Matt, is a venting problem. Is this a new problem or has it always been this way?
MATT: No, it’s just within the last couple of months.
TOM: OK. So then what I suspect is that you’ve got a blockage somewhere. If your vent for that toilet is partially blocked, then the drain line is being starved with air. And if it’s starved with air, it’s going to try to gulp that air from somewhere else and that’s what’s causing the bubbles.
TOM: So, what you need to do is try to figure out where that obstruction is. And it’s going to be somewhere in the vent that is connected to the waste line under the toilet, if that helps you narrow it down a bit.
MATT: Yes, it does. Thanks.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Stick around because we’ve got a lot more great home improvement advice to share with you when we come back.
TOM: Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement, your décor, your remodeling questions. We’re here to take them at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro and instantly book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros, for free.
LESLIE: Alright. But you’ve got two pros standing by right now to jump into all of those questions you guys post in the Community section on MoneyPit.com. Every day we’re getting new questions, which I love.
This is actually a good one I don’t think we’ve received ever, as far as I can remember. Now, Sarah in Georgia writes: “Can you tell me what that little diamond mark is on my tape measure? It appears every 19-3/16 inches?”
I love how tape measures have really thought about everything and they give you all these little grabbers and holders and tricks and time-savers.
LESLIE: So what is this one?
TOM: Well, that is actually for spacing a certain type of building component. It’s for spacing a floor truss.
Now, if you think about a floor truss, they often have a 4-inch-wide top. They don’t need to be 16 inches on center because the top is so wide. You can use fewer of them and they can be farther apart.
Now, originally, 19.2 inches was used in metric layouts. So, dividing 5 into 96 inches, which is 8 feet, gives you 19.2 inches which yields 5 trusses per sheet of plywood floor. And that’s why we have the diamond marks on tape measures. It’s for laying out floor trusses to fit under plywood.
LESLIE: I love it.
Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post here from Ronnie in New York City who writes: “My home is 50 years old. Central air and heating were installed 15 years ago, which included 5 vents in the basement. An energy-conservation expert suggested sealing off those basement vents since it’s not used as living space. But an HVAC expert says closing the vents will build pressure and strain the system. I want to save money but not if it’s going to cost me in the long run. What’s the right move?”
TOM: I think they’re both a little bit right here. I mean you can shut off some rooms. Maybe shutting off something that’s 25 percent of your house, if it was designed to have an HVAC system in the basement from day one, a lot of times – I say that because a lot of times, systems were extended to cover a space like a basement if it was being finished, in which case it doesn’t really matter.
But I think if you were to shut off all of those registers and it was designed to have it in the system, you might strain the system a bit. You’d probably put more pressure on the blower. I don’t think you’d put much pressure on the compressors in the summer. It probably wouldn’t have any effect on the heat, although your system could cycle more.
So, yeah, I do think he’s right. There’d be more wear and tear on the system components. Whether it would be something that would force it to rapidly fail, I doubt. But it would save you a bit of energy, though.
But you know what? If you do – if you are really concerned about saving money, shutting off one room is one thing. But you really need to get your priorities in terms of where are you losing most of the heat. And that’s in your attic.
LESLIE: Really, you have to think about the attic as the head of your house. And if you’re not properly insulated in your attic space, all of that heat is going to escape, just like it does through your head on your body. So you want to make sure that you have the proper amount of insulation. And I’m not talking about to the underside of the roof; I’m talking about on your attic floor, whether it’s blown-in or fiberglass. You know, you really want to check with what the state codes are for the minimum amount of suggested insulation to keep that air in. But you also need to let air out, so it’s all about insulation and ventilation in the right amounts.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on this beautiful fall weekend. We hope we’ve been able to share some tips and ideas and projects for you to think about taking on in your home. But remember, if you’ve got questions, we are here any time of the day or night. Just pick up the phone and call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or post your question online to the Community page at MoneyPit.com.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
From Source Article: moneypit.com
Even with standard maintenance, HVAC systems can be the sources of occasional mysterious knocking, unbalanced output and other causes for noisy heat. Here are a few common issues, their sources, and and tips to sort them out.Unbalanced Heating or Cooling
Poor duct design and sealing are often the culprits behind an unbalanced HVAC system. In a perfect world, rooms would be designed with completely balanced temperature distribution. The challenge is a blend of your local climate and construction demands.
Improvements begin by inspecting your ductwork and sealing any leaks. Add insulation to improve comfort for more predictable room-to-room temperatures. Make sure that the air-return portion of a forced-air system is functioning properly because that can also have an adverse impact on room temperatures. One way to ensure this is by undercutting interior doors so that there’s enough space between the door’s bottom and the floor—at least an inch. With that, air can escape to the return vent even when the door is closed.
You can check and adjust airflow by doing a “tissue test” at each room’s supply and return vents. Here’s how: Switch your thermostat to “fan” and then go from duct to duct, holding a tissue in front of the vent to determine airflow. Supply vents should blow the tissue toward you with a good little gust, and return vents should pull the tissue right up against themselves.Oil-Canning of Ducts
This noisy heat phenomenon happens when metal ducts rapidly fill with air as your system starts up, expanding with a big bang, just like an old oil can. Hence the name. Repair is easy, a simple matter of proper reinforcement of the ducts. Just to be sure that oversized airflow or other elements aren’t the issues, it’s wise to have an HVAC technician check things out and help determine safe solutions that’ll keep the air moving, but much more quietly.
Banging pipes and radiators are common noisy heat complaints when it comes to steam systems. The knocking sound is the result of tiny steam explosions that occur when water collects in the radiator rather than heading back toward the boiler to be reheated
If a little knocking sets your world rocking, there’s an easy fix. Literally, tip the balance by repitching the unit so it sends the excess water back toward the unit’s inlet valve. You can do this by adding a shim—a small piece of wood—under the legs on the end of the radiator opposite the inlet valve.
Cold radiators are another cause of noisy heat. If too much air gets trapped in a hot water radiator, water won’t be able to move smoothly through it, and you’ll wind up with the radiator either totally or partially cold when the heat is on. Occasional “bleeding” of the radiator will help you maintain efficiency. To do this, you’ll need a radiator key, a simple wrench designed in the shape of a key to fit the air bleed valve on the top of the radiator.
Turn the heat on and once all the radiators are warm, use the key to drain out any air that has become trapped at the top of the radiator. Once hot water starts to “spit” out of the bleed valve, you can shut it off and you’ll find that that the entire radiator will heat. Be careful though, since the hot water can burn you if you’re not cautious.Photo Credit:Gelly___ / Pixabay
From Source Article: moneypit.com