TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Podcast. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And hey, what are you working on today, on this beautiful spring weekend? If that involves your house, are you fixing up the outside? Are you trying to get the lawn mower cranking? Are you working on your deck? Working on your patio? Maybe taking on an inside project in your apartment, your condo, your co-op? Whatever is on the to-do list, give us a call because we are here to help. The number is 888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
And we will start the show with bad news, Leslie.
LESLIE: Oh, no. What is it?
TOM: It’s that time of year when pollen levels reach their peaks. So, achoo, achoo. All you allergy sufferers out there, it is time once again to …
LESLIE: To close your windows.
TOM: Close your windows, you know, pick up an extra box or two of tissues and just be ready to be a little bit miserable for this part of the season. But we will give you some good news and that is we’re going to have some advice this hour on specific ways that you can improve the indoor-air quality in your home. And some of these tips are really easy to do. Some of them are low-cost; many are no-cost. We’re going to try to help you breathe easier, just ahead.
LESLIE: I mean I always find it amazing. Just when you’re finally finished being cooped up from the winter and you want to open the windows, that’s when both of my kids’ allergist is like, “Oh, yeah, don’t open the windows again, ever.” And you’re like, “I just want fresh air.” It’s a rough time of the year, you guys, plus taxes. So, let’s get onto better home improvement-y things.
Are you thinking about making your home smarter but you’re avoiding all those new smart-home products out there because they’re just too darn complicated to hook up? Well, we’ve got a great solution to ease that pain. We’ll have some tips on smart-home products that install in seconds, just ahead.
TOM: And would you like a very green way to grow your garden pesticide-free? We’re going to have some tips on how you can use Mother Nature’s all-natural pesticide to achieve a healthy garden.
LESLIE: And with that weather finally getting nicer, are you thinking of family-friendly outdoor activities to keep your kids involved and off of those electronics? Creating a kid-friendly garden is a great way to do just that and maybe teach a bit of self-sufficiency in the process. We’re going to have those tips, in just a bit.
TOM: But first, we’re here to take your calls, your questions. So, call us right now. Let us know what’s going on in your money pit. The number is 888-MONEY-PIT, 888-666-3974.
LESLIE: Dorothy in California is on the line and she needs some help with a wall texture. Tell us what you’re working on.
DOROTHY: Well, what we had – we have a wall and it was a heater there. We took the heater out; it would sit in the hallway. And then we finished everything and now we’re trying to find a way to kind of match the texture that was there originally.
TOM: And what kind of texture would you – how would you describe this texture, Dorothy?
DOROTHY: Well, it would have – like some of them will be a round shape and the other ones like an oval shape. And then they would have little, tiny circles. And then, in some cases, you would have – like they went over with a brush or something. So they’re kind of a different type of shape and sizes of circles or oval shape.
TOM: OK. So, one of the things that you can do is you could – once that’s all patched and repaired – is you can apply some spackle to the surface of the drywall, like we used to do when it was Plaster of Paris?
TOM: And then you can take a wallpaper brush – which is a big, heavy, bristled brush – and twist that brush with your hand. Twist it and it makes circles in that wet spackle. And if it’s a big circle, use a bigger brush. If it’s a smaller circle, use a smaller brush. And you can twist it and try to sort of match the pattern as closely as you can to what was there before. And then just paint the whole thing the same color and it’ll probably blend in pretty nicely.
DOROTHY: Alright. Thank you so much for your help. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
ROLAND: I have some exposed I-beams in my basement that support a poured-floor garage above. And during construction, obviously they experienced some rust. And they’re 20 feet long, 12 inches high, so I’ve got about 400 square feet, if you will, of rusted steel. And I’m looking to paint them or finish them off a little bit.
And I was looking at the Rust-Oleum products and figuring I would go through 15 or 20 cans just to cover that amount of space. So I was wondering if you guys had a better idea and how much prep I should do. Should I just – they haven’t rusted since the house has been finished but it does have a coating of rust on there. Is there a better way? And how should I be concerned about prepping them before painting?
TOM: Well, a light sanding would be important to remove any of that loose rust – that loose surface rust. And it’s not deep; it’s just on the surface.
ROLAND: That’s right.
TOM: And then using a Rust-Oleum primer would be the next step. Not the surface paint but the primer. Now, instead of using individual spray cans, why don’t you buy the gallons of Rust-Oleum and rent a sprayer if you have to – a paint sprayer from a rental yard? It would make it super easy.
ROLAND: Right. That’s the best way to go?
LESLIE: Yeah. Plus, you’re inside. And using a can of spray paint is not going to make you feel very well and it’s certainly going to make the house stink up a storm. While certainly easy for application, it’s not really the best approach for an interior project. If you’re using regular paint through a sprayer – as long as you protect everything and cover up your ceiling from overspray and the floor, et cetera – you’re going to be in great shape.
TOM: What I like to do is to try to depressurize a room when I’m spraying in it. So how would you do that? Very simply. You’d open up a window, stick a window fan in it, make sure it points out and then open up another window or door on the other side of the room and get some cross-ventilation. This way, you’re always moving the air outside the house, replacing it with fresh air.
ROLAND: Sounds good. Is there any concern with the rust coming back through?
TOM: Not if you prime it. If you don’t prime it, it can definitely come right through. But if you prime it, especially with a rust-inhibiting primer like Rust-Oleum, it’s going to kind of lock that in place. And as long as you don’t have any kind of serious leakage or something like that, I don’t expect it to come back through.
ROLAND: Super. Thanks so much.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are listening to The Money Pit. Hey, post your home improvement question to us at MoneyPit.com or call us, 24/7, at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. They make it fast and easy to find top-rated home pros you can trust for any home project.
TOM: Just ahead, with allergy season upon us, if you want to breathe easy at home, indoor-air quality is just as important as the air you breathe outside. We’re going to have some tips on how you can improve that inside air and avoid the sneezes, just ahead.
Where home solutions live, this is The Money Pit. Call in your home improvement or décor question, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. They make it fast and easy to find top-rated home pros. Plus, it’s 100-percent free to use.
Rich, how can we help you?
RICH: Went in the crawlspace, you know, last year to run some wire and I got all this water. And it’s on the heating and air ducts. And it’s nice, fresh, clean water dripping on the vapor barrier. When I bought the house, the two vents that are down there are blocked. Or they might have done that when they put in the radon vapor-barrier system.
So, basically, I was mopping it up with a towel and putting it in the bucket to get it out of there and it’s just the same thing is going to happen this summer when I run the air condition, I guess.
TOM: This is a crawlspace that’s unfinished and you have a radon ventilation system in the crawlspace or it’s a basement?
RICH: The radon’s in the basement but I thought there was a tube going into the …
TOM: OK. Because typically – here’s what you’re going to do. With a radon system, the basement, if it’s finishable, it’s going to be sealed and have a ventilation system installed into it. The crawlspace is usually – you never put a radon system in a crawlspace because a crawlspace is always vented.
And if the crawlspace is open to the basement then, if anything, you might seal off the space between the crawlspace and the basement to create two separate and distinct areas that have their respective levels of ventilation. Does that make sense?
RICH: Yeah, I think it’s pretty much blocked off. I guess the radon doesn’t go in there then.
TOM: So now, let’s talk about your moisture problem. Now, what you’re seeing in the ductwork is condensation, because the ducts get cold when you run air conditioning. And you have warm, moist air in the crawlspace area and that condenses on the outside surfaces of the ducts and they drain. Basically, they drip.
So, what can you do about that? Couple of things. First of all, we can take some steps to reduce the amount of humidity that you have in the crawlspace. So how do we do that? Well, number one, I want you to look at your gutters outside. Make sure that the gutters are clean, free-flowing and discharging away from the house. We want no water collecting anywhere near the first 4 to 6 feet away from that foundation.
LESLIE: Because that’s just going to find its way right back into your crawlspace.
TOM: Exactly. Big U-turn.
TOM: Then, look at the slope of the soil and make sure that the soil slopes away. And make sure the gutters are finally clean. So, if all that water from the rain is moving away from the house, that’s good.
The next thing that you can do is you can make – that those ventilate – that those vents are open in the crawlspace. And then thirdly, you can add a dehumidifier. Take a look at the Santa Fe dehumidifiers. They’re best in the business. They are ENERGY STAR-rated, so they’re not going to cost you an arm and a leg to operate and they’re going to totally dry out that crawlspace. And then the fourth thing that you can do is insulate the ducts.
So, drainage on the outside, open up the vents, get a Santa Fe dehumidifier and then insulate the ducts. And that will stop the problem.
LESLIE: Well, if you are an allergy sufferer and want to breathe easy at home, it’s important to improve the indoor-air quality and reduce those allergy inducers inside your house.
TOM: So here’s a few things that you can do. First, you want to change your air filters on a regular basis and before each new season to make sure you’re removing pollen, dust and mold.
Now, a whole-house air-purification system, which is connected to your HVAC system, is also a good option to get rid of those airborne particles. And some of these systems are so efficient, they can also take out germs and bacteria, as well as remove chemical odors and vapors.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And you’ve got to remember to dust and vacuum really regularly. You want to keep your windows closed at night to prevent the pollen from drifting into your home. And instead, use your air conditioning, which’ll help clean and dry the air, as well.
Now, if you’ve been outside all day, the doctors always recommend showering, washing your hair. Get all that pollen off of you before you get into your nighttime clothes and hang out around the house. You want to wash your laundry in very hot water. That’ll keep the dust mites off, especially on your sheets. Stay inside, if you can, when the pollen count is at its highest, as well on those windy days even if the pollen count is low. That wind is just going to blow the pollen all around and make things terribly uncomfortable for you.
Try, if you can, to keep the windows of your house, as well as your car, closed on those days, as well. I know our allergist says to keep them closed all the darn time. So just think about keeping those windows closed.
And remember, laundry hung out to dry also attracts pollen. So just use the dryer in the house. It’ll keep all of those allergens outside, where you want them to be. And don’t let your pets sleep in your bed, because they’re outside, they’re rolling around in the pollen. And I don’t think you’re washing them down every time they come in and out. Because they can carry that pollen in their fur and then put it right into the bed and then everybody’s sneezing.
I know I sound like a broken record on this because it’s just what I deal with with my two boys, who have the worst seasonal allergies. And it’s really – it’s no fun.
TOM: Yeah. Now, changing the air filter in your HVAC system is also going to make sure the air that you’re breathing is easier. But it also extends the life of the system. So what you want to look for is a pleated air filter with a MERV rating – and MERV stands for Minimum and Efficiency Reporting Value. It basically shows you how good a job the filter is going to do at filtering all that dust and mess. You’re looking for a rating of 13 or higher. That’s going to help you capture all the small particles, as well. It’s also going to protect and improve the performance of your heating-and-cooling system. And it’s just going to make the air in your home cleaner overall.
I’ve got to tell you, sometimes just spending a few bucks on a filter like that can help preserve your air-conditioning system and avoid you having to spend thousands of dollars on a new system in the middle of the summer which – because you know it always breaks down on the hottest day of the year, right?
LESLIE: Of course.
TOM: So, make sure you’re changing out those filters on a very regular basis.
ANNA: Well, I have a problem with a painted banister. We have a white staircase – white banister – painted. And after a while, we’ve been cleaning it and it gets a lot of dirt into the paint and the paint has become sticky. I need to know what to maybe seal it with or some suggestion.
TOM: Well, at this point, if you’ve gotten kind of a sticky mess on your hands, there is no sealing. You’re going to have to go back to the …
LESLIE: Yeah, you’ve worn through the finish.
TOM: Right. You’re going to have to go back to the raw wood and get as much of that old paint off as possible. So I would use a paint stripper first. There’s a pretty good product called Rock Miracle that we like, that does a good job. Get as much of that paint off as you possibly can, then use a good-quality primer – oil-based is best – and go up from there. There’s nothing at this point – if you’ve got a goopy, sticky, yucky surface – that you should put on top of that. It’s only going to make the matters worse, Anna.
ANNA: It’s not (audio gap), it’s more just sticky and it gets grime into it. It’s the only thing I can tell you.
TOM: Yeah. Right. And …
ANNA: I was hoping I could maybe save it but it’s an awful lot of stripping.
TOM: Yeah, I understand that. But the problem is that anything you put on top of that is just going to make it worse right now. When the paint gets to be that – in that kind of condition, you’ve got to really start taking off some layers. I mean you may not have to go down to raw wood but you’ve certainly got to get off the upper couple of layers and go from there.
ANNA: Oh, OK. Alright. Well, was hoping you had a magic but …
TOM: Sometimes we do but not always. Sometimes, the only magic is the hard elbow grease that has to go into a project.
ANNA: OK. And what kind of paint would you suggest? An oil-base, I know that.
TOM: Well, for priming, yeah. Just an oil-based primer. At least you get better adhesion with it.
LESLIE: And then it’s better to use a glossy finish, because anything with a glossy finish has more layers of that finish in it to achieve that high gloss or a semi-gloss. And then it’s more cleanable or easily wipeable.
ANNA: OK. Alright. Thanks so much.
]LESLIE: Keith in Illinois is on the line. How can we help you today?
KEITH: I have a one-and-a-half-story house that has a – on the second floor is the – well, the rooms are basically half height. They’ve got the – in the middle, they’re full height but on the edges, they’re not. That’s where the closets are at.
During certain times of the year, the trusses tend to expand and it lifts the drywall in the edges and causes it to curl along the seams. And the builder wanted to put crown molding up there to prevent that. And what I had wanted to do, obviously, was prevent the action completely. It had been recommended before to add ventilation above the attic to get good airflow through there. The builder has said that by adding additional venting, which would be – I would consider the side vents. He said that would actually ruin the venting system that’s already in place, which is in the eaves.
Do you have any additional recommendations for that?
TOM: Well, a couple of things. First of all, truss lifts happen when the trusses shrink and they pull up in the middle of the room and that’s why you get the ceiling cracks, correct?
TOM: And the ventilation you have right now, do you have continuous soffit venting?
TOM: And do you have ridge venting down the peak of the roof?
TOM: Well, you’ve already got the best ventilation system out there. So as long as it’s working properly, it’s not blocked, there’s no point in putting additional ventilation in there.
TOM: Now, is it possible for you to get above the trusses, down like right above the ceiling?
KEITH: Well, I can’t get above that area. It’s boxed off and of course, they have it insulated but they do have the Styrofoam blocks that prevent the insulation from blocking the truss vent. No, unless I cut through the top of the roof, I cannot get above the ceiling there.
TOM: Well, if the trusses were installed correctly – which, of course, isn’t going to help you – there are some L-shaped truss clips that they would have installed that could have prevented this problem, that help as the roof expands and contracts. The reason I asked you if you could get to them is because they may be able – you may be able to install them after the fact.
But if you can’t get to them, then I’m afraid there’s really not an easy solution to this. If you were to add a second layer of drywall over what you have and you were very careful to make sure that the seams didn’t line up with the seams you have now, you may create a roof that’s strong enough – or a ceiling that’s strong enough – to not show cracks like it is. I would also glue the new layer to the old layer. But again, I would overlap those seams, so to speak. Does that make sense to you?
KEITH: Yes. So they don’t line up.
TOM: And that might make it strong enough. Because right now, there’s no strength in the seams. It’s just the paper.
TOM: So that’s going to be the weakest part of the ceiling structure. If you were to put a second layer of drywall and glue across that, then I think you would have a really, really sturdy ceiling and it would be unlikely that it would continue to crack.
KEITH: If I could sand on the – because I can get in the attic and get up to where the 2x4s come together in the truss. Would I be able to screw in a bracket there? That’s what you’re suggesting to basically strengthen that joint?
TOM: Keith, if you can get on top of the drywall, so to speak, those trusses are going to be attached to interior walls in some places, correct?
TOM: So what you would do is you would have to detach them from the interior walls and you would put an L-clip in place of the nails. The clip is attached to one side; there’s a slot on the other. And that allows the truss to move up and down and it will relieve some of that uplift and cracking.
Now, when you do that, you might see – over the next year, if the truss starts to try to move again, you may see some nail pops that occur. And if that’s the case, you want to punch them up and through to kind of relieve the pressure and then patch the drywall.
But I do think by the time you go through all that work, that it might be an easier solution just to put a second layer of drywall on. Because your problem is primarily with the seams and that’s going to be the easiest way to fix that.
KEITH: Yeah, it does sound like it. Alright. Thank you very much.
LESLIE: Just ahead, would you like to make your home smarter but you’re avoiding all those new smart-home products because they just seem too darn complicated to hook up? Well, we’ve got a great solution to help ease that pain. We’re going to share some tips on smart-home products that install in seconds – I mean it, guys, seconds – just ahead.
TOM: Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
Well, if you’ve thought about adding a smart-home product to your home but you’ve hesitated because maybe you’re just a little bit afraid that you’re not quite smart enough to hook it up or maybe just not savvy enough, listen, I feel your pain. Some of it is confusing.
Well, some of these products really are a hassle. They’re confusing. And as a result, some folks just choose to skip the smart-home revolution altogether.
TOM: Well, one company has made it their mission to bring smart-home products to the market that offer safety, security, energy efficiency and convenience. But they can do that with an installation that gets done in minutes, not hours, by virtually anyone. Dean Finnegan is the CEO of Switchmate and he joins us now.
DEAN: Thank you, guys. Good to be here, Tom and Leslie.
TOM: So, we’ve been reporting on the smart-home market for a lot of years now. And the complexity of the installation is definitely something that holds back a lot of folks, especially those that are older than, say, about maybe 25. You guys have really set out to change all that.
DEAN: We have. We have, Tom.
What we did is – and what we’ve always done – is we look at product categories and we identify the primary barriers that are keeping the mass-market consumer from adopting technology, specifically females but obviously males, as well.
Everyone likes simplicity. And what we often find is the biggest barrier is complexity. They’re just too complicated to install and configure and to operate. And then, usually, there’s some other technology hurdle. And in the case of smart-home products, it’s the ability for WiFi modules to get cloud access and how much those WiFi modules drain batteries.
So what we did, as a company, is created the first long-range Bluetooth/WiFi on-demand ecosystem. So we can make products that are completely wire-free, that are Bluetooth and WiFi-based. But the Bluetooth modules only use one percent the power of a WiFi module. And the WiFi module only turns on when you need that cloud access. That means we have products that last over a year on AA batteries. And the consumer can install them without any wires, any complexity and not have to worry about changing out the batteries constantly.
TOM: We’re talking about no wires, no complexity. You have products now that can be installed in literally one to two minutes. Let’s talk about an example of that. And that is this first no-installation smart light switch. Saw your video on that. Brilliant. Attaches right over the existing switch. And it attaches magnetically and can be controlling the room, literally, in just a couple of seconds, with timers and motion and voice and all of those smart-home elements that heretofore were just very difficult and time-consuming to take advantage of.
DEAN: True. And before we entered the market, if you wanted a smart light switch in your home, you had to bring an electrician in to replace all those hard-wired switches in your home that were powered, again, because they had WiFi modules in them.
We created a switch that literally comes out of the box and attaches right over top of your existing switch. And less than a second is the installation. And then you download the app, tap it four times and you’re up and running. And now you have a light switch that you can control with timers, motion, voice. You can walk into a room and say, “Kitchen lights on,” and they come on instantly, with or without Google Home and Alexa. We have voice control within our own app. And then, of course, you can still control the switch manually or from your phone. And you can control them remotely from anywhere, anytime.
LESLIE: Now, what about – I know for me, I don’t have a lot of hard-wired light fixtures in the house. I have a lot of, you know, tabletop lamps that plug into an outlet in the wall. Is there an option there for me to be able to control my lighting, as well?
DEAN: There sure is. We actually introduced the first dual smart outlet in the United States. So it’s actually – it looks just like the outlet you have now with two plugs. Each one independently controlled. And again, you just take it out of the box. This one has no batteries. You just plug it in and within a minute, you’re up and running and you can now control not only lamps that you’ve plugged in but any device in the home that you plug in.
TOM: We’re talking to Dean Finnegan. He is the CEO of Switchmate, a company that has pretty much made it their mission to simplify smart-home products and the installation that goes with that.
Dean, one of the great benefits of smart home-product technology is what we can do with cameras today. I know that’s something you guys have focused a lot on. And you talk about the battery life and things of this nature. That’s particularly important with a camera that’s mounted up high. You don’t want to have to keep going up and changing the batteries. You want a good, reliable signal. Has that been a challenge for your engineers?
DEAN: The biggest challenge. We actually started on this almost two years ago. And we did have a major hurdle to overcome.
The security cameras that have been out there for years require you to run wires all the way through your house, through your walls, outdoors. Because, again – once again, they have WiFi modules that needed to have power. So we created the first long-range Bluetooth/WiFi combination camera that actually will run for over a year, again, on AA batteries. And the installation – literally, from out of box to on the wall, up and running – is one to two minutes.
DEAN: And it’s got 5 to 12 times more battery life than any other IP camera out in the market today.
TOM: That’s pretty impressive. And now, the next thing you guys are doing is you’re kind of bringing all this together – all of these elements together – into a home security system. That seems to be where the rubber meets the road, because I’ve seen a lot of smart-home security systems. And they look attractive but by the time you get into the box and you find out all the parts you’ve got and figuring out where everything goes, yeah, you’re into this thing for hours unless you get hung up. And then sometimes you never get it installed. So I think I’d love to see a way that I could add security to my home or to my apartment without all of those technical hassles.
DEAN: Yeah, Tom. Actually, you’re right. It’s actually the product I’m proudest of. It’s the first completely wireless, whole-home security system. And when I say whole home, that means it’s not just a security system with a motion sensor that’s going to send an alarm if someone walks in front of it. It actually has perimeter alarms. So the window and door sensors that go on your perimeter – so if anyone opens a window or opens a door, you get notified.
So we created the first completely wire-free, whole-home security system. It’s got an embedded 1080p camera. It’s got two window and door sensors but most consumers will buy four to six additional sensors to alarm their whole perimeter. It’s got a 100-decibel siren, two-way audio, night vision and 24/7 professional monitoring if you want it. You don’t have to buy that; you don’t have to use it. You can self-monitor this system. But we offer that service from one of the largest monitoring companies in the United States, for 14.95 a month versus the existing alarm companies that charge $30 to $40 per month.
LESLIE: Hundreds of dollars for the year.
DEAN: Yeah. And the beauty of a monitored alarm system is you get about a 20-percent credit on your homeowners policy when you have one. So the product basically pays for itself in nine months. You’ve made up that savings just on your homeowners policy.
The beauty of this is that for the first time – the market in the U.S. has been stuck at about 18 to 19 percent of homes with monitored alarm systems for about 5 years. This opens this up to everybody. You can install this system, from beginning to end, in three minutes. If you’re a renter and you leave, you can take it down and install it in your new place in three minutes. So, it opens up the market to virtually anyone.
And the market is forecasting 62 million new homes in North America with monitored security or whole-home security in the next five years. Pretty amazing number.
TOM: Yeah. And plus, not only the new homes but the homes that are out there now. And you mentioned apartments. I was thinking about that. You know, pretty much all the other security systems that require some level of installation, you just can’t do that if you’re a renter. But this is a system that you can install, enjoy the benefits of complete with the home monitoring. And as you say, take it down, take it with you and move it to your next place.
DEAN: Correct. And 42 percent of the homes in the United – people in the United States live in rentals and not in their own property. So it’s a huge market. And it only has a – it’s got a retail of 199.99. So, again, it’s an amazing value.
LESLIE: And that’s really affordable.
DEAN: Most of the systems out there right now – this category, the DIY home security category, just emerged two years ago. But all the other systems take 45 minutes to, as you said, two hours to set up compared to our three minutes.
TOM: The company is called Switchmate. Their website is MySwitchmate.com.
Dean, you have absolutely cracked the code of smart-home security, convenience, energy efficiency. I can’t wait to get my hands on some of your products and give them a try. But very, very impressive the way you have solved the technology battle and the installation battle at once.
Dean Finnegan, thank you so much for stopping by The Money Pit.
DEAN: Thank you, Tom. Thank you, Leslie.
LESLIE: Dean Finnegan of Switchmate, thanks so much for stopping by The Money Pit and making everybody’s smarter home much easier to achieve.
Up next, a free and all-natural pesticide recipe for your garden.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, on The Money Pit’s Listener Line at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
LESLIE: You can get matched with background-checked home service pros in your area and compare prices, read verified reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
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CAROL: We have a single-car, asphalt driveway that goes out of the farm market road, past the front of the house to the back of the house. And it goes between the house deck – I mean the deck on the house – and the storage with a carport. And it’s a single-car, asphalt drive. Goes around a tree and then comes back out. Makes a circle and comes back out and it’s very important to this property. And it’s on a slope. And we want to redo it but we don’t exactly want to dig up the whole thing and start over.
TOM: OK. What’s the condition of the driveway right now, Carol?
CAROL: Well, I wouldn’t call it very good; I wouldn’t call it the worst I’ve ever seen.
TOM: Well, here are your options when it comes to restoring an asphalt driveway. If the driveway is in structurally good shape, it is proper maintenance to repair the cracks, patch any holes and then reseal the entire surface. However, if the driveway structurally is in poor condition – if it’s got really broken-out sections, washed-out sections, if it’s sunken – then all of the sealing and patching in the world is not going to change that.
So it might be that there’s a combination of things that you’re going to do here but you can do the sealing and the patching yourself. If you want to replace it then, of course, that’s a job for a pro.
And there’s sort of an in-between step, too, and we’d have to have a pro look at this to determine if this is possible. But sometimes, you can add an additional layer of asphalt to it and leave what you have in place but put another layer on top of it that’s maybe an inch to 2 inches thick, that could be less expensive than tearing the whole thing out. Does that make sense?
CAROL: Right. Well, more than anything, we just want it to look better than what it does because we plan on putting our house on the market this summer. Because we’re 69 and 71 and so what we’re going to do is downsize, because the farm is a lot of work.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Are your outdoor plants plagued by bugs and pretty much other seasonal problems? Well, before you turn to pesticides, try your first and best defense: water.
You know, a good, strong spray of water often takes care of bugs and any of those other outdoor-plant problems. And it’s much safer for you and the environment. However, if you do want to make your own pesticide, soap spray is another option. You just mix 3 tablespoons of liquid detergent into a gallon of water and use that weekly. Most bugs just can’t tolerate the taste of soapy water and they’ll move on.
TOM: Yeah. Now, you can also use a mixture of about a ½-cup of alcohol and 2 to 3 tablespoons of dry laundry soap and then a quart of warm water. You have to make this solution fresh for every use. And the alcohol spray is really excellent for houseplants, which can be prone to all sorts of bugs, like mealybugs.
So, some pretty simple steps that you can take there to try to keep those bugs away from your plants.
LESLIE: Well, with the weather finally getting nicer, are you thinking of family-friendly outdoor activities to keep your kids involved and off of their electronics, which I know is a daily battle? Creating a kid-friendly garden is a great way to do just that and maybe teach a bit of self-sufficiency in the process, so stick around.
TOM: Making good homes better, this is The Money Pit. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your how-to or décor question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or post it to The Money Pit’s Facebook page at MoneyPit.com presented by HomeAdvisor.
LESLIE: Alright. Don’t forget to post your questions in the Community section, as well. And I’ve got one here from Bill who writes: “I own a 1955 home. I pulled up a corner of the carpet padding and found wood floors. But there seems to be some padding sticking to the floor and then nail holes from the nail strips around the outside edges. I’ve read that many people have gone back to their underlying hardwood. Is this a big or expensive project?”
TOM: Not as expensive as replacing the floor or putting a hardwood floor in from scratch, that’s for sure.
TOM: It’s actually, I think, kind of a fun home improvement project. It doesn’t require a lot of skills, just a couple tricks of the trade. So, first of all, about the padding sticking to the floor, yeah, that happens. I mean if it’s not too terribly bad, you can basically just scrape it up with a putty knife or a spackle blade or something of that nature. And as for the holes that are caused by what’s called the “tackless,” which is that wood strip with all the little spikes coming out of it that holds the carpet in …
LESLIE: But that’s around the perimeter of the room.
TOM: Yeah, it’s not really that obvious. And if you use an appropriately colored wood filler, you can blend that right in.
The key is to know how to sand it. And if it’s very – if it needs almost nothing, like it’s just pretty much a little bit of wear and tear because it’d been protected by that big drop cloth that we call a “carpet” for all those years, what you could use is a buffing machine, like you see at the mall or commercial buildings. But instead of a polishing pad, you use a sanding screen that lays in the bottom of that. Takes just off the finish that – the fine, sort of surface finish and freshens it up for a new coat of polyurethane.
Or you can use a machine called a U-Sand machine, which is a little more aggressive but easy to use because it doesn’t damage the floor. That you can rent at a home center; it’s kind of four spinning discs inside of a square head, vacuum-drawn so that dust doesn’t get everywhere. It’ll help you really clean that up. You’ll probably end up having to do some handwork around the edges but it’s not a hard project to do.
LESLIE: Alright. And hopefully, when you get to the middle of the floor you don’t find some mystery stain that’s gone through and maybe requires a little bit more sanding. But you’re going to love those wood floors.
TOM: Well, with the weather finally getting nicer, are you thinking of some family-friendly outdoor activities that you can take on to keep the kids involved and off of those iPhones and other electronics? One option is to create a kid-friendly garden. It’s a great way to teach a bit of self-sufficiency and have some fun in the process. Leslie has got some tips that you can use to get started in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Yeah. And I’ve got two ideas to help you all get started out there.
First of all, give your kids their own space. Now, they’re not going to learn much if Mom or Dad are doing the work for them. But between you and me, you also don’t want to risk them damaging your garden, so give them their own space. Everybody is going to be a lot happier.
It doesn’t have to be a lot of space. It could be a 3×3-foot plot or even a raised bed. That’s a good starting point for them. And then you can even use string to grid that plot into 1-foot squares, just to help them organize different types of plants, placing the tallest plants on the back and the shortest in the front.
Next, get them their own tools. It’s never too early to get the kids going with a tool collection sized perfectly for their little hands. Whether it’s shovels and buckets that do double-duty in the sandbox or real garden tools that are designed for kids, tools make them feel like they’re part of the process, just like Mom and Dad.
Now, most stores – like Home Depot, Walmart, even Target – have those kid-friendly gardening tools. Even your local plant-and-garden center is going to have them. And they can help you figure out which veggies, which plants, which flowers are going to be the easiest and most kid-friendly so you don’t go through a lot of unnecessary killing of plants. Which sometimes happens but let’s try to avoid it.
TOM: Try not to kill the plants. Let’s grow them, right?
TOM: Hey, for more tips on how to plant a kid-friendly garden, you’ll find a post by that same title – “How to Plant a Kid-Friendly Garden” – right now on MoneyPit.com.
And coming up next time on the program, since we are in the mood of talking about getting kids involved in gardening, one kind of garden they might like to play in is a butterfly garden. We’re going to have the step-by-step tips for helping you create a butterfly garden, plus we’ll give you a checklist of the best plants to include, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
END HOUR 2 TEXT
(Copyright 2018 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No portion of this transcript or audio file may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc.)
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From Source Article: moneypit.com
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: On a beautiful May weekend, "were here to" help you with your home improvement projects. Give us a summon, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Got a great show planned for you this hour. We’re going to talk about kitchens. You know, they can feel like Grand Central Station, right? I make whether it’s the nutrient being prepped, all the electronics being blamed or those gondola keys that get sagged, the countertops are the part of that kitchen that bear the brunt of all that wear and tear. So we’re exiting to share some gratuities on "the worlds largest" durable and easiest-to-maintain countertops, just ahead.
LESLIE: And are you trying to enjoy the heated condition outside but noisy neighbors or street traffic are making it difficult? We’re going to have a natural mixture so you can get some peace and quiet.
TOM: Plus, it’s a great time of year for outdoor projects. And if you want to step up your gap, we’re going to have some tips on the easiest and most cheap acces to create grill circumvents, volley pits, benches and even outdoor kitchens by simply stacking blocks.
LESLIE: And if you open us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT, we’re giving away a great produce that can help keep all that pesky wildlife away from your beautiful gardens, buds and trees. We’re sending out a gallon of Bonide’s Repels-All to one listener who calls us with their home improvement question at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974. You miss a shot at winning a gallon of Bonide’s Repels-All? Keep those deer apart? Those are the ones that are attacking our house. They chew our undergrowths every single year. But now we introduced this Repels-All on and they don’t bother. They just don’t like the perceive and the bushes look fantastic.
So, if you are dealing with places like that, give us a call right now. You might just win that product.
888-666-3974. Let’s get to it, Leslie. Who’s first?
LESLIE: David in Alaska is on the line. Getting prepared for the endless time. Muches of light.
You need some assistance hanging some wraps, huh?
DAVID: I’ve got an apartment in an aged structure. It was built in the early 70 s through members of the military. It’s a big cement building. It’s a neighbourhood called Whittier, Alaska. And people have hung up curtain perches so many times there that all of the drywall is now gone. It’s simply mounds of plaster put up there. And I’m trying to figure out a good way to enter it.
TOM: What’s under the clods of plaster?
DAVID: If you go far enough, it’s cinder block.
Well, Leslie, what do you think about should go right through all that soft substance and using a Tapcon fastener?
LESLIE: That’s probably the easiest way to do it. And Tapcons do really the best job of adhering to any form of concrete or solid rock. It is a special fixing. It’s a special attachment for your teach driver. But it are now working and it will do the trick. And you do need to get some sleep.
TOM: The bolt is designed to go into masonry, so you’re just going to need to figure out how long it has to be. But I think if you append those brackets with a Tapcon fastener- it would be a long, thin bolt- then it’s never going to come out. It’ll propped those fairly sturdily.
It’s Tapcon- T-a-p-c-o-n. They’re generally available at hardware supermarkets and dwelling centers.
DAVID: OK. Alright. Excellent. I’ll yield it a shot.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project.
Yeah, we actually did a project with Tapcon fasteners where we were hanging vinyl shutters on a scout room, actually. The scout house was made out of concrete block, so that’s exactly what we did: we make Tapcon fasteners in all the vinyl screens. And even though it was only very light vinyl, the screws supported them extremely securely so the winds and the rain didn’t tear them off.
LESLIE: Now, Tom, do you ever find that when you’re using a Tapcon, you have to settled a piece of cable or something into the hole so that as the Tapcon goes into the stone or the concrete or whatever it is, it has a little additional to grip onto?
TOM: Sometimes, I’ve had to do that if I’d applied lead shields, which is the other way to do that. If you’re drilling into concrete block- matter of fact, I was hanging a sign at the same project and we were using lead shields. And sometimes, when you drill through make shields, the drill gets a little sloppy and large-scale. So what we did in that case is precisely to hold the pas shield in bit, we made electrical tape and wrapped it around the outside of it, only to make it a little thicker. And then it stayed in place. Because, then, as you drive the fasten or the bolt into it, it expands and becomes really, really right.
So, sometimes you have to fill the holes with a little bit of something, precisely to make it bite until it can get in deeper and do its job.
LESLIE: All good tips-off but clearly the right implement to use.
Judy in Louisiana, you’ve went The Money Pit. What are you working on?
JUDY: Hi. I was asking about mildew and mold on brick. How do I get wise off the easiest way? I necessitate it’s outside. How do I get it off the most effective way without harming the mortar?
TOM: So, there’s a variety of commodities out there that can do that. And these cleaners, essentially, saturate the mold or the moss or the mildew and then they break down the fibers. And then sprinkle, essentially, cleanses it away.
They’re gradual operate. It’s not like you’re moving to get it on once and it’ll be done. But it will get clean-living. So, there’s products like Spray& Forget or Wet& Forget and there’s Concrobium. Zinsser has one. And all of those products are basically a mildicide that is designed to kill that material.
I worked them on a ceiling of a shed last year that was literally altogether covered with moss. And I just happened to observe this past weekend, because we were out doing some work on the ground, that I could see all the shingles again as if it never existed. So it exactly basically softened everything is away.
So that’s the way to do that. You can pressure-wash some of that off but if you do it, you just have to use a soothing pressure washer so that you don’t destroy the surfaces underneath.
Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are carolled to The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show on aura and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy way to find the best home assistance pros in your province. You can predict reviews and book appointments all online.
And time ahead on The Money Pit, do your countertops look like they could use a redo? Well, we’re going to share some tips on "the worlds largest" durable and easiest-to-maintain countertops, after this.
TOM: Fixing good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a bawl, right now, with your dwelling increase project at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fast and easy practice to find the freedom pro for any kind of home project, whether it’s a small repair or a major remodel.
I did a minor remodel this weekend.
LESLIE: Yeah? What are you working on?
TOM: I think it’s a good example to seeing how you can repurpose and reuse happens that may be lying around your ground. In my suit, there was a patio that was broken up many years ago. And I’m talking 20 years ago. And it was broken up into these concrete sort of squares that were roughly 18 inches square.
Well, I had a little stoop I had to build for the back entrance of my garage, because it’s slightly below gradation. And I had done it about three times out of pressure-treated lumber and it continued rotting. So I’m like, “You "know what i m saying"? I’m going to do this one more time and I’m not going to do it with wood.” And I was able to take all of those squares that had been sort of stacked up in a back reces of the yard for years and had ivy growing on them and substance. And I’m like, “I’m going to go dig those out, because I judge I can make use of them.” And sure enough, I used about 10 or 12 of them. Built a nice, little lean, a little retaining wall around it and didn’t cost me a dime.
And so that’s just one example of how, sometimes, just what you need to take on a project could be merely lying about in your room or in my event, in my yard.
LESLIE: You never know where you’re going to find a good treasure.
TOM: Hey, give us a call right now if you’ve got a home increase question. Now that it’s so beautiful out, if you’re noticing wildlife is caring your quality as much as you are, you are able to want to think about adding the Bonide Repels-All Animal Repellant to your to-do list. We’ve got a gallon to give away this hour. It’s an all-natural product. It protects the attractive seeds and organizations for up to two months. And it’s battery-powered for easy application.
It’s worth 49.99. Going out to one listener described at random. Make that you. Give us a ask, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: David is on the line and needs some help with some springtime scavenging. What can we do for you today?
DAVID: I need to get a power washer to power-wash my house.
DAVID: What PSI should I "ve been trying to" get?
TOM: Yeah, they come in a wide range of PSIs or pounds per square inch. Number of things you want to consider. You want to reviewed and considered the PSI, too how many gallons per minute the pressure washer is going to deliver, the dimensions of the the engine. Is this going to be gasoline or electrical pressure washer you want to buy?
DAVID: I don’t know. I’m open to suggestions.
TOM: Electric is going to be a lot less expensive and easier to maintain, as long as you can get a cord around the house where you need to use it. And there’s a new one out from Greenworks that’s- they have different PSIs but there’s one that’s in the 1,800 straddle. It’s under 200 bucks. It’s a nice machine.
TOM: And the second thing that we like about it is it comes with five different types of nozzles. So, if you’re doing a gentle surface, like wood siding, "youre using" one. And if you’re blasting apart grime on concrete, then you use another one. And if you’re cleaning the rims on your auto tires, then you use a different one. And they all store on board. And there’s likewise a soap cistern, which is super handy.
So, those are the kinds of features and power that you want to evaluate. But something in that area is very general purpose and it can do a really good job in all of those areas around the house.
DAVID: OK. And the other thing, in the rear of my mansion I have a little mold on the vinyl. Does employing a regular bleach clean- would that really drudgery or do you have to get those special ones that mold ...?
TOM: Yeah. I mean you could mix up a bleach-and-water mixture for this or you could purchase a mildicide. There’s a wide array of house-wash commodities out there. I know Simple Green has a good way of them, for example.
And you’re going to want to apply it to that face and tell it sit for a bit. And then, again, with the liberty gratuity on the pressure washer, you can wash vinyl siding without any anxiety of detriment it. But if you use the incorrect tip, you’re going to shoot holes in it. So, exactly get used to the machine and it can really do all these places for you.
DAVID: OK. So, bottom line, what PSI would you hint I get?
TOM: I got something around 1,800 is soon to be fine for most general-purpose residence cleaning.
DAVID: OK. Well, I appreciate your time. Thank you very much for answering my question.
TOM: You’re very welcome.
Well, kitchen counters serve as the drive skin-deep for family life. It’s where we prepare food, we feed family dinners, maybe even pay the bills and help with the homework. But that’s why choosing a material for those working counters that can stand up is really important. So, if you’re ready to change your counter or you’re doing a brand-new kitchen, here’s a few things to consider, is the beginning with natural stone.
LESLIE: Yeah. Natural stone is probably one of the most popular options out there. People love the ogle of natural stone. It adds richness and profundity to the space and it actually determines it a great choice for kitchens and baths.
Now, granite and quartz have become sort of the gold standard of late. They’re both beautiful but both can be very costly. A tiny bathroom, though, can provide the opportunity for a luxe-looking makeover on a budget.
TOM: Now, solid-surface countertops are another good alternative. They look great and they volunteer a bit of scheme flexibility, because they can be custom-made to fit your needs. Look, if you have granite and quartz, you can be custom-making those but you can’t get too custom because it’s stone, right? But with solid-surface material, you have a lot of flexibility.
We have these countertops and they’re durable and they’re stain-resistant, they’re easy to install and they’re cheap. The merely downside for us was we made a bad emblazon preference for the drop. Don’t choose white capsize when "youre living in" an Italian household, because it doesn’t stand up well to tomato sauce. And we need to keep the boni( ph) handy to always rub it scavenge after a big meal.
LESLIE: That’s a good point, though. You was therefore necessary to be careful with the surface that you pick and the kinds of shambles that you make.
LESLIE: Now, if you’re a do-it-yourselfer, ceramic tile genuinely has the most size, chassis, colour, composition and structure options out there. It’s sturdy, it’s stain-resistant, it’s easy to install and it’s affordable. But that grout does need some assistance. It needs to be closed so that you prevent staining.
Finally, butcher block, it’s beautiful and natural but it actually does need a lot more care than I reckon beings consider or know to do, specially because you’ve got to prevent the absorption of E. coli bacteria. So, easy to keep and have but you have to take care of it if you choose to do the butcher block.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974. Do you have a kitchen assignment on your to-do list? Thinking about making- this time of outpouring, we start thinking about kitchens. Summer we get more motivated. And September and October, we are great guns all fast-forward, full-speed onward, let’s get her done before Thanksgiving. So , now is the time to start scheming. Give us a summon, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Sharon in Illinois is on the line who’s dealing with a lot of leaky copper hoses. Tell us what’s going on.
SHARON: We have a concrete slab for our dwelling, with copper tube in it. And we’ve been having some leaks- some bad holes- and I have paid a plumber a great deal of money. And he mentioned that there was a year that there were some defective copper pipes. And I’m trying to find out what year.
TOM: Are you suffered by pinhole reveals? Is that what he said?
SHARON: I repute so, yes.
TOM: Pinhole divulges is a condition in copper plumbing that’s caused by the acidity in the sea. And the problem is that there’s not a lot that you can do about it, short of replacing your pipes.
TOM: It’s something that develops gradually and the strategies for dealing with this are to either fixing the holes as they develop or to simply plan and budget for a major refurbish of all of the parts of the plumbing that you can actually get to. Because over epoch, they’re exclusively going to get worse.
SHARON: Yeah. Well, we specified the leakage on the south end of our house and now, today, we finished the divulge on the north end of the house. But I just wondered if there was some- we’ve had two other organizes that were built on a concrete slab that "ve never had" one problem.
TOM: Yeah, it’s not the slab; it’s the sournes of the ocean. If you thoughts on over to our website at MoneyPit.com and you examine “pinhole holes in copper pipes, ” you will find a detailed article that I put together on this a couple of years back, that will give you all of the different types of pitting that are associated with copper pipes.
SHARON: Yeah. Oh.
TOM: But it really "re going to have to" do with the pH of the water.
SHARON: In the water.
TOM: Mm-hmm. Yep.
SHARON: Well, I just thought maybe- as the plumber said, he said there was a year that there was defective copper- went copper- and we saw, “Well, maybe that was its first year members of this house was improved, ” you know.
TOM: I don’t review it’s consequently a specific year of defective copper; I think it’s only the pH of the irrigate that’s "re going through" those pipes that’s causing it.
SHARON: Thank you, sir.
LESLIE: Jim in Tennessee is on the line and is dealing with some bees.
What kind of bees? Are they all over? Are you getting stung? What’s happening?
JIM: We have a log cabin, East Tennessee. And shortly after we built it, we started having a problem with standing bees.
LESLIE: Ah, carpenter bees.
JIM: So, these are giant bumblebees that still further has not been able to sting anybody.
LESLIE: They have large-hearted, pitch-black, burnished tushies and they are able to teach a perfect puncture in all wood surfaces, 5/8 -inches around.
TOM: Yep. Yep.
JIM: They’ve decided to attain our cabin their home, as well. And about this time of its first year, we’re inundated with thousands of bees. We’ve had exterminators come through and nothing seems to eradicate them.
TOM: I don’t know what material they’re applying but frequently, the right pesticide will prevent them from coming home. What they’re basically doing is they’re drilling excavations in lumber surfaces. And then they going to be home those holes and they lay eggs. And then they just kind of make them sitting here and incubate. Now, with the right types of pesticide- generally, there’s a pulverized pesticide that they actually put into the holes and around there- that they are able to stop that.
Now, is it happening in the enters themselves or is it on the fascia and the decoration?
JIM: No, it’s every- pretty much everywhere.
TOM: Wow, yeah.
JIM: It’s in the record and it’s in the fascia and trim, as well.
TOM: Yeah. Because the fascia and the decoration - you know, I had some fascia and decorate like that that was getting ruined in a garage and I came tired of treating it every year, so I just replaced it with a composite material. And it was funny because the firstly year after that, the bees hindered flying around it meditating, “Hey, looks like wood but doesn’t taste like wood.” So, they eventually "ve been given" and didn’t come back.
But it chimes to me like you’re precisely not coping with the title type of pest-control professional, because I don’t understand why if they’re applying some of service standards concoctions that are out there- which you can’t buy, by the way, because they’re not over the counter- that these bees keep coming back.
JIM: Right. Well, we have a home contract for a pest-control company. And we’ve had them because we improved the chamber of representatives. And they’ve applied therapies several times but it doesn’t seem to really eradicate the bees.
TOM: I can’t give you a specific pesticide but I will tell you that insecticidal dust is normally what works best. It has to be applied to the holes, even inside of those openings. And then formerly it’s inside of them, you do not want to seal up the holes; you want to let it sit and do its job. And then after the season, so to speak, then you are able to close up the holes. Because if you don’t, they’ll come back. But you want to make sure that all the bees have been killed. Because if you don’t make sure they’re all killed, they’ll just remain drilling to find brand-new cavities, because you sealed off the ones that they had. But if you apply the insecticidal junk, that will do it.
And then after you have it all sealed up, then you might want to think about staining or refinishing areas outside faces, because that will likewise deter bee infestation. It’s normally depicts or stains with various kinds of a varnish. They’re not going to like the flavour of that stuff.
JIM: OK. Alright. Great.
TOM: Alright? Yep. Good luck with that campaign and thank you, again, for scream us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Hey, when you open your windows to "ve brought" fresh air, does a cluster of interference come with it? This Old-fashioned House landscaping contractor Roger Cook will be here with a natural mixture for some peace and quiet, next.
TOM: Stimulating good residences better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home improvement job, your decoration predicament at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never worry about overpaying for a activity. Only use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others paid for a similar campaign. It’s all online, for free, at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Stan in Oregon who’s cope with a hot-water issue. Tell us what’s going on. It doesn’t come out that immense or that red-hot? What’s happening?
STAN: It comes out but it merely makes a lot of noise. It does a lot of spitting, various kinds of like there’s air in the lines, precisely like when you purify the line sometimes and then you employed the pressure back on and it takes you a while to get the air out? It reaches the same kind of a clang. And it merely does it on the hot-water side and it does it in every faucet in the house: the tubs and the submerges. All the same, simply on the hot-water side.
TOM: Does it do it when it’s off for a while?
TOM: Now, what kind of water heater do "youve had"? Is it gas or electrical?
STAN: It’s electric.
TOM: OK. Have you checked the heating loops?
STAN: No, I haven’t.
TOM: Sometimes if you have a bad heating coil, this can be a condition that occurs. Is this fairly new in terms of you reading the air spurt out of the faucets?
STAN: No. It’s been like that. I exactly bought the house about a year ago and the house has been sitting empty for about two years.
STAN: It was a foreclosure that I bought, so I have no idea.
TOM: Here’s what I would do. Now, there’s an easy highway to evaluation this but you need to kind of know what you’re doing. So this might not be a do-it-yourself project, alright? I’m warning you, because it involves electricity.
But the behavior you check an electric water heater out is you turn the superpower off at the panel and then you disclosed the - you open the- take the coatings off so you can see the loops. And then what you can do is with a persistence tester, you can check each curl to see if the supremacy succumbs through it. You have to take one wire off of one line-up; otherwise, you’ll be checking it kind of backwards. But you could check continuity on each curl to see if the coil isn’t working.
TOM: So you’ll still have hot water even if only one of the two ringlets is working but you’ll run out quicker.
STAN: Right. Uh-huh.
TOM: And this may be the norm for you: maybe you don’t know that you’re exclusively squandering your liquid heater at half the national capacity. But I would check the loops firstly because that could be what’s justification so much air to be in the system. It’s just not heating the irrigate enough.
STAN: Thank you. I realize your time and thank you for the information.
TOM: Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announce us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, road noise assaulting your ears date in and day out can really wear on your nerves and is in conflict with the peace and quiet you want to feel when you’re at home.
TOM: But if you’d like to muffle the interference before it even reaches your walls, you might want to consider adding trees to create a natural and a beautiful sound barrier in your yard. Here to tell us how is This Old House landscaping expert Roger Cook.
ROGER: Thanks for having me.
TOM: So, countless parties use barricades to silent a ground but who is able to only facilitate so much, right?
ROGER: Right. Because there’s restrictions on how high-pitched a fence is also available. The great act about use trees is there’s no limitations on how high they can get.
TOM: Yeah, that’s a good point.
So, trees abbreviate the taste of racket by sort of creating a visual obstacle between the resources and the hearer. But parties are also less is cognizant of racket if they can’t appreciate the source, right?
ROGER: Exactly. It’s a study that was done that says if you can’t construe where the sound is coming from, it mentally obstruction some of the sound.
LESLIE: That’s interesting.
TOM: You can’t see it if it doesn’t exist.
ROGER: Right. There you go. Yeah.
But noise is noise and it’s very interesting how it was able weave its highway through different things to get at whatever it is you want to be.
LESLIE: So when it comes to placement of these trees, do you want it to be closer to the sound root, closer to the house or can you go right in the middle?
ROGER: Right in the middle is probably the worst spot. Ideally, you want to be as close to the noise source as you can.
LESLIE: And I think in your standard head, you want these bushes or shrubs or trees, whatever you’re using, to be really close to one another. But you’ve got to give them the suitable space to kind of grow into their own, privilege?
ROGER: Well, it’s a fine wrinkle on what you want to accomplish right away. And you can pick certain types of trees that will grow upright so that they will grow into each other and become a living hedge, which could get 8, 10, 12 hoofs towering and certainly knock down the sound. If you pick out trees that get too big, then you’re going to end up pruning off some of the chapters, which will let the din through again.
TOM: Now, when it comes to choosing the trees, I guess you want to decide if you’re going to have this deciduous tree, so that’s going to leaf in the spring and the summer, or an evergreen that’s going to be light-green all year round. Because without the foliages, you’re certainly not going to get the same various kinds of resounded armour, right?
ROGER: Right. So it depends where the sound is coming from and what’s irritate you. Are you out on your patio when this noise is bothering you and is it different in the winter? If it’s just when you’re out on the patio, then you could use large-hearted, deciduous trees with vast, enormous needles on them to knock down the racket. If it’s something you’re trying to- like superhighway noise you’re trying to block all year round, then you’re better off going with evergreens.
TOM: Now, before you become that final determination, I predict it’s important to know your hardiness zone?
ROGER: Yes. You know, there is a USDA map that demo everyone’s hardiness zone. And you demand flowers that’ll survive and proliferate well in that zone, so it’s important to pick out the right bushes of the human rights spot.
LESLIE: Yeah, we exerted Leyland cypress to do this in our yard.
LESLIE: And I represent it’s amazing how tall they’ve grown over the 11 years we’ve had the house. They’ve been 20 paws tall regularly since about 3 years after we embed them. They’re fantastic.
TOM: And how is the noise working out?
LESLIE: Those neighbours moved but it was a really ...
TOM: See? So they acted perfectly.
LESLIE: It drove immense. But it certainly was an excellent sound buffer.
ROGER: Right. But if I plant leylandii cypress up here, maybe every four or five years old it gets so cold they get thumped back or killed.
ROGER: Yep. So we use arborvitae instead of Leyland cypress.
TOM: So, again, you’ve certainly got to know your zone and choose the seed that’s appropriate for your part of the country.
ROGER: Yeah, it’s an investment. Like Leslie just said, they develop and they thrive and proliferate. And they only get better and better.
LESLIE: They really do.
ROGER: They is not merely knock down sound for wildlife and fledglings and all else. So, choose the claim flower of the human rights spot.
TOM: Great advice. Roger Cook from TV’s This Old House, thanks very much for stopping by The Money Pit.
ROGER: Thanks for having me.
LESLIE: Alright. Catch the current season of This Old House and Ask This Old House on PBS. For local registers and step-by-step videos of many common home improvement projects, trip ThisOldHouse.com.
TOM: And Ask This Old House be increased to you on PBS by Gorilla Glue.
Still to come, we’ve got some step-by-step tips-off on the simple and inexpensive nature you can create an outdoor kitchen in your most own backyard. That’s all come through here, after this.
Where home answers live, welcome to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a call, right now, with your home increase question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.
LESLIE: You can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your place, spoke supported reviews and book appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No concern the type of job, HomeAdvisor stimulates it fast and easy to hire the best regional pros.
And hey , now that it’s so beautiful out, have you been detect that wildlife are affection your veggie garden-varieties as much as you are? Well, we’ve got a great product to give away that can help that. It’s called the Bonide Repels-All Animal Repellant. Got all-natural parts. It protects the worthwhile seeds and structures for up to two months and it’s battery-powered for easy application.
It’s worth nearly 50 horses but we’re devoting one away to one caller drawn at random. Make that you. Call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Cynthia calling in from Brooklyn, New York is dealing with some wet-basement publications. Tell us what’s going on.
CYNTHIA: I is an issue I want to ask you about the waterproofing for the vault. Because I live here in a flood zone and then we had Hurricane Irene and was greatly affected by that.
CYNTHIA: So I had one company come in and they were requesting like 21,000- a bit over 21,000- to do that waterproofing. Does that racket tolerable or whatever going down there with that company?
TOM: Absolutely, fully not rational.
Now, the spray question "that youve had" was associated with the typhoon?
CYNTHIA: Yes, yes.
TOM: The intellect the liquid came in was because it was sourced on the outside of your live. In other texts, when you have ponderous rainfall like that, your sewers become overwhelmed. They dump a lot of water privilege at the foundation and then pretty soon the grime can’t handle the irrigate and it drains into the house. And so I’m sure this is what happened.
And if you’re merely get sea when you have really heavy rain conditions like that, then you utterly, positively do not need to spend $20,000 -plus on a arrangement to gush sea out of your cellar. What you do need to do, on a regular basis, is to make sure, first of all, that your channel are- that they exist, that you have them, that they’re clean, that the downspouts dump the irrigate at least 4 to 6 feet away from the house and even more than that or extended them through subterranean pipes and take them out. And then your grading around the house, the tilt of the grunge downgrades away. Those two things will go a long way towards foreclosing any further wet-basement problems.
The problem with the waterproofers is this: they don’t make money by selling you gutter-cleaning services and increasing downspouts; they only make money when they come in with their jackhammers and rip up cellar floors and put in drain tile and sump shoots. And they do it whether you need it or not. And in this case, you don’t need it because you told me that this only happens if you had an extraordinary brave episode like that. And that means you perfectly don’t need that service. What you do need is to make sure your sewage ailments are set up on the outside of your house. Does that make sense?
CYNTHIA: OK. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that programme. Preserve another one from the jeopardies of the waterproofing contractor.
If you look at our website, Leslie, and you look at all the articles I’ve written about this and look at all the comments ...
LESLIE: They’re all from waterproofing contractors.
TOM: Oh, they detest me. Oh, they altogether hate me because I take business away from them, because I tell people the truth. They don’t - you don’t need sump gushes, you don’t need pump tile. All you need is clean gutters. It’s terribly, very simple.
LESLIE: Well, if you’d like to improve your outdoor room by adding an outdoor kitchen, a shell oppose, grill enclosure, planter or even a bench, there’s a really easy way that you can do that with a product called RumbleStone.
Now, RumbleStones, which are made by Pavestone, are rustic-looking stones that come in project packages. And you simply stack them together, like Legos, in a predetermined motif to build all sorts of favourite outdoor features.
Now, RumbleStones make it fast and easy and inexpensive to modernize your backyard with amenities like an outdoor kitchen, a flaming excavation, a bench. The paraphernaliums start at 250 horses and they can also be used for traditional paver campaigns like patios, walls and even scenery borders.
TOM: And if you want to strengthen that finished project, you can even use the QUIKRETE Advanced Polymer Construction Adhesive between the stones. So, there’s no mortar required.
These RumbleStones are a beautiful addition to being able to your outdoor living space. Plus, right now, there’s even a step-by-step video of a really cool outdoor kitchen, surfaced with a QUIKRETE concrete countertop, available online. Just head to YouTube and search “how to build an outdoor kitchen with RumbleStone and QUIKRETE Concrete Mix” and it’s all right there. Took a look at it today. It’s about seven or eight instants long. Very well done and very informative.
If you’d are ready to understanding of all the things you can build with Pavestone’s RumbleStone, visit Pavestone.com.
LESLIE: Kelly in Texas, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
KELLY: Yeah, I have a Craftsman-style home and it has crest express. But I had an energy audit exactly the following spring and the vitality review said, “Kelly, you don’t have any soffit vents in your- around your eaves.”
TOM: Yeah. Hmm.
KELLY: Well, I don’t really have eaves. All of my roof ends in these exposed rafters. It does have gables and so he said, “You need to vent this house. Your mansion - your attic is not properly freshened because you don’t have any way for the aura to get into the bottom.”
TOM: OK. So you have no soffit. Is that correct? Basically, it starts?
KELLY: That’s correct.
TOM: So here’s the answer, OK? There’s a type of vent called a “drip-edge vent.” And what a drip-edge vent does is it essentially increases the roof position by all of about 2 inches. And that 2 inch has become a overhang at the leading edge that provides the intake ventilation for the soffit.
So, if you go the website for AirVent.com- it’s the Air Vent Corporation- take a look at the commodity excerpt there. Look at the Drip-Edge Vent and you’ll meet exactly what I mean.
Now, to do this, you’re going to end up taking off the bottom route of shingles and maybe even putting two shingles in its arrange, because you’re going to have to actually physically extend the roof by a pair of inches. But done right, you will install that soffit that you don’t have and you won’t discover it from the outside. So you’re not going to physically dismissal a difference in terms of the architectural wording of your mansion but you will provide that all-important seat for uptake ventilation.
KELLY: OK. Appreciate it.
LESLIE: Alright. Thanks so much for calling The Money Pit.
Are you ready to add air conditioning to your home, only in time for summertime, but you’re wondering what sizing you really need? Well, going too big can waste energy and going too small simply isn’t going to handle the heat. We’re going to share gratuities on how to pick the excellent immensity, next.
TOM: Clearing good homes better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Call us, right now, with your dwelling progress question or upright it online at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: That’s right. Now, Anita in Illinois writes: “I’m going to have to install a new central air-conditioning organisation this year. How do I know what size to get for my 1,800 -square-foot, single-story home?”
TOM: That’s a great question, Anita, because I have found, in the 20 years I spent as a home inspector, that it was very common for the air-conditioning size installed in the home to be wrong.
Now, it’s generally too large , not too small, because folks want to be comfortable.
LESLIE: But I feel like people fantasize bigger is better.
TOM: Right. But here’s the problem: if you introduced a structure in that’s too big- a central-air system that’s too big- it short-cycles. What that implies is it comes on, it cools the breeze really fast, then it goes off. And it comes on, it cools all the air really fast and extends off.
The problem with short-cycling is, first of all, you use a lot more electricity. And second of all, it’s not rush long enough to make the humidity out of the breeze. And so your room becomes sort of cold and clammy, which is a really uncomfortable situation. And when it’s damp like that, you can also grow mold.
So, how do you know what size? Well, begins with the rule of thumb: 600 square hoofs of house for a ton. So, 1,800 -square-foot house, probably a 3-ton. But you don’t stop moving. You need to figure out what your heat loss is and this is not something that you can do. There are calculators online but an HVAC pro should be able to do it.
Heat loss, basically, is a measure of how much air-conditioning supremacy you need to compensate for the amount of heat that will get into the house on an average summer day. And it depends a lot on stuffs like your windows. Are they single-pane? Are they double-pane? Are they low-E glass? How much glass do you have facing the southwest line-ups of your residence? How much insulation do "youve had"? All of these happenings go into a heat-loss calculation and then you can determine exactly what you need.
So, my point to you would be: make sure the results of this work is done. Don’t precisely approximates. And if someone says, “Well, I could lean a 3-ton in but perhap you should go 4, ” I intend maybe that guy is just trying to sell you a bigger legion than it was necessary to. You’re going to curse it from the moment it gets turned on, because you won’t be comfortable. Just buy what you need- not extremely much and not too little- and you’ll be very comfortable on those warm days.
LESLIE: Oh and you’ll be so indebted you have it.
Alright. Next up, Danielle in New Jersey has posted: “I refinished my wood kitchen table years ago and had no problems with it. Recently, I sanded it and refinished it again. This time, I put one across about four coatings of an oil-based polyurethane and allowed a daylight of drying in between each coat. Now it deposits if anything warm sits on it: coffee cups, plates, everything. How do I secure it? ”
TOM: Ugh. Well, I think that even though it says on the label that the polyurethane would bone-dry in a couple of hours, it’s precisely not true. You’ve genuinely got to let polyurethane dry a couple of days, at least. And only putting the four coatings on - first of all, you didn’t need four hairs. You certainly only needed two, especially since you were recoating something from before, even though you sanded it. And now you’ve got it all built up there and it’s all gummed up. And I think that the underlying coatings never truly dehydrated properly. I don’t think they’re ever going to dry.
I’d tell you to take it all off. Take it all off and do it again. It’s actually the best way to go. You’re actually not "re going to be" able to solve this any other path. If you wanted to try one thing, you could try using a glue wax on it, like a vehicle wax, and see if that helps stop the stuff from sticking. But I suspect it won’t. You’re really going to have to take it down to the original timber and reapply it.
LESLIE: But the good news, Danielle, is now you’re a pro at it. It shouldn’t be too terrible.
TOM: Exactly. You’re really good at it. Well, it’s a practice.
LESLIE: And that- ugh, that really is the worst. I’m so sorry, Danielle. I know what it is sucky that is. But good luck. It’s going to be awesome.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Thank you so much for stopping by. Hope we’ve given you some tips-off and the recommendations on how to get those projects done around your live that were on your to-do list. You reached among us through our social-media paths. Post your question on Facebook.com/TheMoneyPit or ping us @MoneyPit on Twitter. Or you can call us, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t was therefore necessary to do it alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2019 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No component of this transcript or audio folder is also available reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Yield, Inc .)
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here to help you with your dwelling improvement projects on this lovely summer weekend. It’s a bit hot outside but whether you’re working in that heat or working inside or scheduling development projects for the cool forecast onward, devote us a call and we’ll help you do just that. The quantity is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s program, severe summer rains can strike at a few moments , no matter where you live. But if that happens, are you ready with emergency renders and gear that you’ll need at home, at work or perhaps even your vehicle? We’re going to have some tips on what you need at all three locales, in really a bit.
LESLIE: And if you’re looking for a nice finishing touch for your kitchen, we’re disappearing to have some suggestion for intent and installing a beautiful, brand-new backsplash that can certainly spruce up the space.
TOM: We just completed a big makeover at our money crater and it all started with a brand-new garage flooring that was made of tile that you can lay yourself. I’ll say to you about that, in only a bit.
LESLIE: But first, we want to know what you are working on. Let us know what’s going on at your fund excavation. No campaign, large or small, is too much for our team to help you undertake. We’d love to hear about it. We want to see what you’re working on. You can always post your drawings in the Community section. We are keen to lend a hand 24 hours per day, 7 days a week right here at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
TOM: 888-666-3974. Give us a call right now.
Let’s get started. Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: Henry in Illinois is taking on a driveway-repair project. What can we do for you?
HENRY: Where my driveway fills the asphalt road in front of my home, right where it meets- I have a hole forming there and it goes down about 3 to 4 inches deep and probably about 4 hoofs in diameter. And so it turns out that when I turn my rotation to turn into the driveway, well, the left front wheel slams it and it kicks that rock-and-roll out. And I positioned brand-new pea stone in there and it simply kicks it out, too.
TOM: So you have a pea-gravel driveway and the force of the car leading it over and time and again is sort of wearing away a defect. There is a solution for that, Henry and that is- what I’d like you to consider doing is running a concrete apron at the paw of the driveway.
So what the concrete apron does- it doesn’t have to be very big: across the entire driveway, maybe 2 feet, maybe no more than 3 feet deep. But 2 hoofs will probably do. That concrete driveway- that apron then suffices as the entry quality for those working tires.
So you hit that, you go over the concrete apron and then you go into the pea gravel. And the edge of the concrete apron will retain- acts as sort of the retaining wall for the pea gravel in the driveway. That’s the easiest way to stop that from happening. Otherwise, it’s "il be going" a constant maintenance hassle for you to change what is really merely a awfully soft apron now with the pea gravel coming right out and spilling out into the roadway.
You’ll also save a lot of stone in the winter when the moves come by and start propagandizing that snow around.
HENRY: OK. Hey, thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Henry. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Johanna from Michigan who wants to get out and enjoy the deck. How can we help you with that project?
JOHANNA: Hey. We’re getting ready to threw a deck on the back of our home. It’s going to be about 20 x20. And we’re looking at the composite makes and in doing some research, I have come across some hair-raising personas of pitch-black molding, chipping, cracking, crumbling and so on. And I would just like to get your opinion on the composite decking and if it genuinely maintains up the behavior it says it does or if there are things we need to look out for.
TOM: I think it perfectly does hold up. Originally, the very first composite commodities "thats been" out there had wood fiber in their own homes, as well as the plastics. And the lumber fiber would is often used to grow sometimes algae and things like that and beings didn’t like that.
I think it’s a feeling matter. If you think that there is zero maintenance- “I’m never going to have to do anything at all” - you’re not going to find any product like that. Because even though it’s composite, it’s going to get dirty. It may flourish a bit of algae and need to be cleaned once in a while. But realistically, I think it’s going to stand up a lot better than pressure-treated.
Just give you an example. My son recently completed his Eagle Scout project about a year ago. And his campaign was to build a 30 -foot bridge across a brook. And we chose, for that campaign, composite decking. This is going to be in a ballpark, it’s going to get fortunes and lots and lots of foot traffic. That’s been up now for a year and it still inspects as good as the working day we put it down.
So, I reflect composite is a good choice. Stick with a figure brand; stick with Trex, for example. Good product, good history. And I think it’s going to cut down on the maintenance overall and it’s going to look terrific at the same time. And you won’t have to paint it and stain it and all that.
Now, you is known that you do- the framing of this is all done through standard pressure-treated, right?
JOHANNA: Right, right. And we will have benches and nonsense building in and we’re going to use, I mull, cedar for that.
TOM: OK. Well, I mean you can use composite for the built-in benches, very. Anything that’s going to be disclosed like that, there’s no reason not to use the composite.
JOHANNA: And it’s a unusually pleasant area, so ...
TOM: Yeah, if you have a lot of sun, you really won’t have a lot of problems with mildew and algae growing, because the sun is a terribly natural mildicide. It’s usually the real shady floors that have the issues.
JOHANNA: Yeah. Maybe there was a bad run at that time?
TOM: And you know what? Composite has changed in the last five years, too.
JOHANNA: OK. Well, good. Thank you very much.
TOM: Alright, Johanna. Good luck with that programme and tell us know when the party is, OK?
JOHANNA: Hey, it’s next Friday.
TOM: Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Don in Wisconsin is dealing with a window-well retaining wall that’s coming apart. Tell us what’s going on.
DON: We have a window-well retaining wall that has- have railroad ties in there. Been there for quite a few years. Has started to deteriorate and I’m just now- I’ve been trying to check on "what were doing" and been told to try to use retaining blocks and set blocks on there. And then "youve got to" kept some sort of a pea gravel in front of the block to hold the beach back, because we have sand now; it’s a sand country.
And I’m not sure. I never did this before. And I was just wondering if it’s something that a person- because I’m handy- be able to do myself or is it something that you should actually have a professional landscaper do?
TOM: At the highest one of the purposes of the wall, from the distance between the floor and the top of the wall, how high is that?
DON: Thirty-two inches.
TOM: OK. So it’s fairly low to the ground. Alright. I think this is activity you can do yourself. Concrete blocks- the interlocking, retaining-wall blocks- are a terrific option because they’re very easy to install. Because it’s exclusively 32 inches off the field, it’s not a lot of clay for you to deal with. You’re going to take the wall apart one sort of neighborhood at a time and improve the blocks as you go.
The thing that’s going to be different about the concrete blocks, though, is you’re travelling to have to have them on a little of a solid foothold. Now, that’s one that you might want to create yourself. You could probably generate that out of stone that’s well-tamped down. But you’ve got to get them sat nice and degree; you can’t precisely put them right on the grime, OK?
And then as- after you assemble them, then you can add the pea gravel behind it and the sand behind that. But I do think that that’s a good alternative and it’s "il be going"- literally, if you do it right, you’re going to get a lifetime’s worth of satisfaction out of that because, of course, the blocks are not going to see rot.
DON: Oh, OK. It sounds great.
TOM: Alright, Don. Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You are aria to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on air and online at MoneyPit.com. Give us a call at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor, the fastest and most easy mode to find the best home service pros in your region. You can read reviews and record appointments online.
TOM: It’s all free at HomeAdvisor.com.
Still ahead, severe time rains can come out of nowhere. Are you are willing no matter where you live? Emergency preparedness for home, task or vehicle, after this.
Making good homes better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a announce, right now, with your home improvement question, your DIY dilemma. The crowd is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Terri in Pennsylvania on the line who’s got a gutter issue. Tell us what’s going on.
TERRI: I have white aluminum gutters and on the gutters that face the southern exposure, the one of the purposes of the trough that faces out is turning pitch-black and there’s like- where the sea races off it, it’s like a dark grey-headed and time liquid drippings all along the face of the gutter.
TOM: Right. So, does it looks a lot like the ditches are overflowing and the ocean is coming over the top and coming these sort of drip marks? Is that what’s going on?
TERRI: Well, yeah. I have what’s called a “gutter insert” to keep the leaves out. And I know that- well, I’m pretty sure that that’s not causing it, because I had the same problem when I lived on Long Island. And "theres only" the gutters that faced south. And on Long Island, we had a white aluminum pinnacle to the gutter to keep the leaves out?
TOM: Right. Mm-hmm.
TERRI: And then the water would roll off of that and then go into the- it would be caught into the gutter. So, it’s a different type of leaf method but I’m still having the same black drip.
TOM: Right. OK. So, first and foremost, I would make sure that the sewers are not blocked and that sea isn’t backing up and overflowing that particular trough, so that- because that irrigate reeling over the priorities in it, it can get behind it, it can rot out your fascia.
The dark stains are probably from the sea and tree sap and everything else that gets into those troughs. The channels also fade quite easily; the draw wears off and fades-out quite easily. So I don’t think it’s a stain that you’re going to actually be given the opportunity to cleanse. I is believed that you’re going to end up having to doing in there, Terri, is repaint those gutters.
So what I would do is I would soap them down with a trisodium phosphate, get as much of that gunk off. Then I would primary them and I would draw them again. But really- but do make sure that they’re not clotted, because that could be leading to the problem.
TERRI: But yeah- no, they’re surely not blockage. And I tried scouring it- the ones that aren’t on the second story, where it’s worse. But the ones that are on the first storey, I tried emptying it with a Fantastik and it bleeds into the stain a little bit but I didn’t is known that the aluminum troughs- was it like a hydrostatic or electrostatic draw process?
TOM: What happens is- and you’ll see this: if you make the gutter and you wipe your hand over it, you’ll probably get some white-hot paint that will come off. It oxidizes because it’s exposed to UV. And so then the colour doesn’t is often used to last-place more than perhaps 10 years or so on aluminum gutters.
So I speculate, though, if you clean off as much of this thing as you can, prime it and depict it, it’ll look great.
TERRI: Alright. Great. I’ll give it a try.
TOM: Terri, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, summertime tornadoes can affect without warning. One instant you’re comfy, the next you’re worried about how long you can get by with what you’ve get. Now, when the forecast calls for severe weather, it’s important to make sure that you’re ready for the storm, whether you’re at home, at work or in the car.
TOM: Now, a well-stocked emergency kit is the first step. It’s certainly essential to any plaza you or your loved ones are going to spend some time. Think about what every family member needs to get by for a few days without ability or even water. Keep those disaster items in one spot in your dwelling and make sure everybody knows where to find them. We’re talking about stuff like meat, water, remedy, toiletries, survival implements- like flashlights and tents and tarps- and those extra batteries.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And you’ve got to remember that emergencies can affect when you’re not at home. At act, you should prevent a afford of liquid, meat, toiletries and medicines in close range. And you want to be sure to have comfortable sneakers within reach, more, in case the departure requires a lot of walking.
And finally, don’t forget your vehicle. You want to keep jumper cables, flashlights and ladles in your stalk. And also think about keeping some irrigate, some nutrient, blankets, things that are going to keep you comfortable in case you’re stranded.
TOM: Another good suggestion is to install a standby generator or a whole-house generator, which is a permanent generator set outside your mansion. And it’ll come on automatically within seconds of a strength outage.
I’ll tell you what, we had to live through Hurricane Sandy and had no power for about three weeks. And if it wasn’t for that generator, I think we would have probably leave here. But with that generator, we were able to stay here and keep on with our lives and help our friends and pedigrees and neighbours out, as well, because we were pretty much the only house on the street that had superpower for that totality time.
LESLIE: Alright. Now up, we’ve came Paul calling in from Tennessee who’s got an issue with a ocean gush. Tell us what’s going on.
PAUL: I’m getting some breath in this well water. The reservoir is six-and-a-half years old, as is the house. And it goes down 350 hoofs and the casing goes down 105 paws where they grouted it. When they first set it in, I was inconvenienced by the amount of turbidity I had in it and I was changing the whole-house filter about once a week.
And I went back to the drilling companionship and "theyre saying", “Well, it would take about three months to quit that.” Well, it was 36 months. And then after about four years, I started coming some sea hammer in the cold water, particularly in the basement. Although upstairs, it’ll do it, too.
But then I’m getting air out of the faucets upstairs and it’s collecting air from somewhere and I can’t figure out where. And as far as I know, the well container, with the bladder in it- the 40 pounds of air pressure hold the bladder. That seems to be OK, Tom.
TOM: OK. Yeah, that was the first thing I was going to think: that if you had a leak in that bladder tank, that that would cause that. Other possible motives are bad siphons but I’m not quite sure how you could test that without having all the gear that you would need.
Have you had the well fellowship come back and take another look at this, specifically for the air-bubble problem?
PAUL: No. Because it’s been quite a while and they- the chap they used to have there at the company, in the daytime, didn’t seem to know much about it. In knowledge, when he told me to three months it was going to clear up and it was 36 months, I mulled, “Maybe I’m talking to the erroneous guy.” But I haven’t come a accommodate of him.
TOM: Yeah. Well, he told you to three months because his warranty was 90 daylights, right?
TOM: Paul, patently, we’re getting air into that structure and if it’s not coming through the bladder barrel, I’m not quite sure where it’s coming in. And I reflect you’re going to have to get a well professional there- a real expert- that understands these things and try to see if there’s any lane they can determine exactly how that breeze is getting in.
Do you have another well corporation that you might try?
PAUL: Yeah, there’s various of them here because this area is very rural. We’re right at the edge of the Smokies.
TOM: I would try another well firm, because you didn’t have good luck with the first one, and see if you can get to the bottom of it. But I agree with you: if it’s not the barrel, it more than likely is the pump.
PAUL: OK. Well, very good. And thank you. I will try someone here regional, then, and see if they are able to improved( ph) it out.
TOM: Alright, Paul. Good fortune with that job. Thanks so much for calling us at 888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Dixie in Illinois has a question considering a fracture in the cellar and the possibility of it caving in.
Dixie, are you calling us from a pile of rubble or are you really concerned?
DIXIE: I am actually concerned because it started out with only hairline cracks following along the concrete blocks. And there’s fissures in each angle of the foundation above anchor, as well as these hits in the walls below, in the basement. But the crannies are getting bigger and bigger. I imply there are some of them that are gaping, I want to even say, an inch-and-a-half, 2 inches of ...
TOM: You has only one inch-and-a-half crack? You entail width? It’s open an inch-and-a-half?
DIXIE: Well, the latter are- well, you can’t see through the cranny but the walls are bending in. We’ve even employed reinforcements.
TOM: Alright. So, horizontally- like the cracks are horizontal and they’re bending in, Dixie?
DIXIE: Most of the ones that are bending in are horizontal, yes. But the cracks do go up and down, as well.
TOM: Alright. So it is required to immediately contact a structural designer and have the foundation scrutinized. This sounds serious. I could be said that, often, horizontal fractures are caused by frost throb, where the drainage milieu are poverty-stricken at the outside of the house, ocean musters there, clay freezes and propagandizes in.
But you have that countless cracks and those fissures are that substantial, you need- not a contractor. I crave you to find a structural engineer. You’re only hiring this chap to scrutinize the home and draw up a report discussing the standards of the foundation. And if mends are needed, the engineer should specify those mends. Then you can bring a contractor in to follow the engineer’s specification and represent the repairs.
And then finally, make sure you bring the structural technologist back to inspect and certify that they were done correctly. Because at this station, unless you follow those steps just like that, you’re going to have a serious deficit to the home value. So that’s why if you have it inspected by a structural technologist, repaired by a contractor per the engineer’s specs and certified by the engineer as OK, you have kind of a pedigree for that repair you can pass on to future home buyers, OK? Does that make sense?
DIXIE: OK. But how do you find a structural engineer?
TOM: So, there’ll be regional engineering fellowships. You could also check the website for the American Society of Home Inspectors, ASHI- -AS-H-I-. org. Now, those guys will not necessarily has become a structural architect but there may be an engineer among them that’s likewise a home inspector.
Alright? Thank you very much, Dixie. I hope that helps you out.
LESLIE: You can achieve us now anytime at 888 -MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find top-rated home service pros and journal appointments online, all for free.
Up next, are you looking forward to a motif impres that makes a sprinkle? Well, a backsplash does that and more. We’re going to share some gratuities for designing and adding one to your kitchen, when The Money Pit continues.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a request, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Hey, how’s that air conditioner succeeding? If it’s feeling like it’s not working too well, here’s a immediate gratuity on how you can determine if it needs more refrigerant: just measurement the temperature of the breath that’s going out the cross-file and the temperature going back into the system. Now, if the aura between the give and return is 15 to 20 positions inconsistency, well, that’s ordinary. But if it’s less than that, that means you may need to call the serviceman to have some additional refrigerant included. Because if you don’t, it’s going to have to run longer to do the same thing. And if it gets really hot, it’s just not going to see make love at all.
LESLIE: Jack in New York needs some help with a crawlspace. What can we do for you?
JACK: Well, I have an area that is- was a crawlspace and we burrow it out. And so it’s- we have about a 7-foot ceiling now. And I threw some gravel in it and I wasn’t going to do anything but now I want to expand my store. And I don’t truly have access to where I can settle concrete in it. And I was wondering if you would have any ideas.
TOM: Well, first of all, Jack, since you dug it out down to 7 paws, how did you is in favour of soil under the foundation wall?
JACK: We left a stair. This soil that was in there was so pact that it was almost impossible to dig it out, so we weren’t too worried. But we did leave a step around the foundation, the footer.
TOM: OK. Right.
JACK: There’s about 21/2 foot- we get about 21/2 hoof below the footer.
TOM: That’s what we call, in our areas of the country, a “Yankee basement” where it’s dug out. It’s not a joke; that’s actually what they call it. They call it a “Yankee basement” or, well, sometimes a “root cellar, ” where mostly you make the interior perimeter of the foundation wall, move in about 21/2, 3 feet and then dig down there. So you leave this sort of berm of grime to substantiate its foundation that’s for the purposes of the footing.
So, options for cleaning- for finishing that floor. Why can’t you get concrete into the storey? Because most eras, there would be a situation where they’d named up a chute that goes right through a space and pour some concrete into that floor. That’s clearly the most efficient way and fastest lane to create a floor in a basement.
JACK: Yeah, I is in agreement with you but I truly- the time to- the expense of the concrete and having - you know, doing a entire programme "couldve been" fairly pricey.
TOM: How big is the floor area?
JACK: Well, it’s about 25 x15 and then with an 8x8 protrude to- on one point of it. So it’s L-shaped, basically.
TOM: Well, I don’t have any quick doctrines on how to create a hard-surface flooring when you don’t was intended to introduced concrete down there. You could frame something but I want it would be very temporary. I "wouldve been" prefer that you introduced concrete. And you don’t have to do- it doesn’t have to be 6 cm thick. I can be 4 cm thick and pour it in areas. But I actually think you should just budget for and use concrete down there because anything else you do is going to be very substandard. It’s not going to contribute to the value of your house.
JACK: I hear you. Yeah, it sounds like a hoof( ph) I was afraid I was going to hear.
TOM: Yeah, OK. Well, gape, you got all the hard work done digging it out. I would just plan for and save up for some concrete. Get a mason to help you or get somebody that’s used to finishing concrete. And get it all moved and it’ll be be done in order to a day.
JACK: Oh, yeah, sure.
TOM: It has to be done in a daytime because the concrete’s going to cure.
Alright, Jack? Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, everybody certainly affection to expend the majority of members of their go at home in the kitchen. It tends to be the heart of the home and a plaza where everybody socializes. But maybe it’s not seeming as great as you would like it to. And there are a few actions that you can change the look without spending a ton of cash.
First of all, backsplashes. These are the panels above drops and staves that protect your wall from splashes and food. But they can also be a great space for design. So let’s focus now on developing the kitchen of your dreams with a huge design conversion that’s your backsplash.
Now, they’ve been around for as long as kitchens. But over the past decade, we’ve seen a move in distinct decorations and designs that backsplashes can take on. Now, among the most popular look are tile backsplashes, which can add sophistication at a fraction of the costs of most major design upgrades.
TOM: So, let’s start with some of the practical considerations for deciding whether tile is a good substance for backsplash for you or not.
A few things to consider. First of all, is it important to you that it’s easy to clean or that it seeks a certain way? So, for example, you’ve got some picks. Ceramic and porcelain tiles? Very easy to clean. But natural stone , not so much. It’s porous, it’s prone to chipping. It’s a lot harder to clean. And then you have private individuals tiles or the tiles that come on the mesh-backed membranes. Those mesh-backed membrane tiles, that contain a few dozen tiles, compile installation easier but they may limit your scheme options. And they’re starting to need a lot more grout, which is another cleaning issue we’ll get to in really a minute.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And I think you’ve got to consider design. What is it you people want this backsplash to look like? How do you want to accomplish it? Is a focal point key to what your design contrives are? Well, if it is and you’re employ "the worlds largest" expensive tile, consider exclusively abusing it in one spot, like maybe over the stave where you can really create a focal point. Use that expensive tile wisely in a room that’s going to get a lot of attention. And then fill in the area with a less expensive tile. It’s really going to increase that visual impact on the piece that you’ve spent a lot of money on, without sort of spending all that money for it merely all to look really lovely and maybe not seem so special.
And you can get some immense tiles at a very reasonable price, that’s not going to kill your budget and truly showcase this beautiful area. You’ve likewise need to go to consider: how much cavity am I tiling? If you’ve got a ton of backsplash or maybe you’re doing the whole area above the stove, to the ceiling, "youve been" have to think about how you’re going to use it. You don’t want that tile to make your room watch smaller. You can be utilized a different tile that’ll constitute the space seem bigger. You’ve got to consider all of these things and how you lay out the tile to really, you are aware, decide how your room is going to feel.
And don’t ignore, you can lay your tile out in an interesting pattern: herringbone, offset, stacked. There’s a lot of different ways that you can use the tile that will change the feel of the room. So, experimentation with it a little. Get samples and positioned them up in a gap that gives you a sense of what it’s going to be.
TOM: OK. Now, let’s talk about grout. That is the bane of so many of our lives when it comes to cleaning, because it gets dirty so fast and it’s so hard to get cleanse again. You can make this process a little bit easier if you take some steps ahead of time.
First of all, if you use sanded or unsanded grout, they’re both moderately porous types of grout and the grimes are going to soak right in. So with that various kinds of grout, you’ve got to seal it.
But the other alternative is epoxy grout or cement-based grout. And this is less porous and it’s easier to keep clean. So think through that before you choose your grout and you’ll save yourself hours upon hours of cleansing after you get that tile up and start to enjoy it.
LESLIE: Yeah. And retain, grout also involves choosing the color. A darker dye might not need to be cleaned as often - inkling, suggestion, inkling- but also is a contrast to the tile. Spates of selections. That’s why those grout little bits come in samples, as well. Take a seem and decide the examination that you want.
TOM: The objective is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Call us, right now, with your dwelling progress question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor. You can find out what it costs to do your home project before you hire a pro and instantaneously book one of HomeAdvisor’s top-rated pros for free.
LESLIE: Just ahead, would you like a beautiful, brand-new storey in your garage, cellar or even your workspace that’s incredibly tough but is as simple to putting in place as assembling a riddle? Well, Lock-Tile is a product that does only that and we just abused it for a makeover at The Money Pit’s workshop. We’re going to share those details and tell you where you can see a time-lapse video of the entire project, after this.
TOM: Making good dwellings better, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Give us a order, right now, with your residence increase question. The crowd is 1-888-MONEY-PIT presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Never is concerned at overpaying for a responsibility. Exactly use HomeAdvisor’s True Cost Guide to see what others paid under a similar project. That’s all free of charge at HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Kathleen in Illinois on the line and she’s got a question about a arched ceiling. What can we do for you?
KATHLEEN: I’m need about a restoration activity that we are trying to do on a three-season sun porch. And it’s a 12 x27 room. We did tackle make window permutation by ourselves and we managed to do that. They’re vinyl-clad windows, the tilt-in kind and everything. But the ceiling right now is 12 -inch tiles who the hell is- they seem to be glued up to the ceiling. They’re not on a grid system; they’re exactly up there. And we want to settled faux-tin ceilings. And we’re know ... ... if that’s a project that we could attack or is that something best left to professionals or- we’re looking for your advice.
But we had some injury from rain on the roof and we’ve had the ceiling superseded. But I even painted over where the water stains were with Zinsser Stain Stop. And you can still appreciate the- it did not cover it, so we need to change the ceiling.
TOM: Hey, they stir these tiles that are a drop-ceiling type of a tile that seems just like tin. Have you check those, Kathleen?
KATHLEEN: Yes, we have. And we thought that those were very cool and we didn’t know- do you think time LIQUID NAILS or something to put it up over these existing tiles?
TOM: What’s underneath the tiles? Plywood sheathing?
KATHLEEN: I don’t know. It feels certainly solid when you push a ...
TOM: I would try to figure out what’s underneath it. You could make some parts of the old tiles apart, see how thick that is. I would prefer to have a mechanical attachment, like a staple or something like that, than just simply the cement. The cement is OK.
LESLIE: I aim I would use LIQUID NAILS and something else.
TOM: Yeah, exactly.
KATHLEEN: Uh-huh. And you don’t think it would- I don’t want it to look uneven, how they - you appreciate sometimes those grid systems where the tiles kind of droop and sloop and inspection ...
TOM: No, if it’s done really well, it looks great. We’ve seen them at really high-end decoration showrooms, where you have some certainly upscale decorating done and they look fantastic.
KATHLEEN: OK. Alright. Well , thank you so much.
TOM: You’re very much appreciated. Good luck with that campaign, Kathleen, and thanks so much better for label us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, this past weekend it was time for us to take on a project here at The Money Pit, which was to update the storey in our workshop.
Now, this is a concrete slab and it’s a project I’d actually been putting off for quite a while, because I was thinking I was going to add a brand-new epoxy floor finish, which is super favourite now. But I knew it was going to be a ton of work, mainly because to do it right, you’d actually have to grind off the old finish off the concrete slab, which is a really big job rent a concrete grinder and simply putting in many hours of getting rid of that old-time finish. It’s just a ton of work.
But fortunately, though, I procured a better alternative and I’m going to tell you, I could not be happier with the result. The product we abused is called Lock-Tile and it’s an interlocking and very hard-wearing, do-it-yourself flooring system.
Now, it’s made from 100 -percent recycled materials and it pretty much can instantaneously and very easily transform any room within hours.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, the Lock-Tiles are about 20 inches square and they’ve got an attractive finish, which becomes them easy to clean. The boundary of each tile has only one interlocking boundary. It’s kind of like a big puzzle piece. So to install them, all you have to mostly do is put the riddle together by laying them down side by side.
They came to see you so many different colorings that you can come up with your own pattern, which is exactly what we did. In detail, if you go to The Money Pit’s Facebook page, we’ve got a time-lapse video up now of the entire project.
Now, Lock-Tiles are great for garages, your work openings, even your cellar. And the best part is you can install them over a floor if it’s cracked or uneven or any sort of existing flooring. No glue or professional labor is required. Plus, they’re easy to clean and stain-resistant.
TOM: Check out Lock-Tiles at LockTileUSA.com. I am so happy that we detected this product. The workshop gapes better than ever and we got the entire project done in just a few hours.
Again, that’s LockTileUSA.com or you can call them at 888 -LOCK-TILE. That’s 888-562-5845. Lock-Tile. Great product, huge feelings. So glad we consumed them.
LESLIE: Remember, we’re here for you for all your dwelling fixing or residence progress questions 24 hours a day, 7 days a week at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Up next, are you getting ready for a cover job and wondering what type of finish is likely to be easiest to clean? We’ll discuss the options, when The Money Pit continues.
Where home mixtures live, welcome back to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Pick up the telephone, give us a call right now. Or announce your question to The Money Pit’s Community sheet at MoneyPit.com, just like Julie did in Nebraska, who’s got a very good question.
LESLIE: That’s claim. Julie writes: “I’m a new, first-time homeowner. I’m going to change all the colour hues inside and I can’t figure out what finish to use. I have kids who love to construct messes. What finish is the easiest to cleanse? ”
Well, welcome to the club, lady.
TOM: Yeah, that’s a great question. I judge beings get messed up by this because you’ve got, what, four all kinds of finishes. Let’s think about it. You’ve got flat, you’ve came high-gloss, you’ve got semi-gloss and then you have this sort of in-between bizarre one called “eggshell, ” right?
LESLIE: That’s very good one.
TOM: So where do you fall on this?
LESLIE: I mean personally, in my designer life, I love eggshell. I think it imparts the decorate a velvety composition. It’s sumptuous but it’s not easy to cleanse. You can clean it but it’s - you’re not going to be happy with what it does to the finish.
So, I think in a house with adolescents, I go with a matte or a scrubbable flat, simply because I don’t like anything with a lot of sheen. I don’t like a semi-gloss or a gloss unless it’s a prune or a watery room. So, for me, I go flat or a scrubbable matte.
TOM: Now, a lot of this really has to do, though, with the quality of the draw. It’s various kinds of where the rubber touches the road. If you’re not use good cover, it’s a lot harder to clean it. In reality, you may not be able to clean it; you is often used to wipe the finish off. If you’re consuming very good paint, it’s came more organization to it, it’s got more additives which make it kind of stand up to the abrasion that would happen if you’re precisely rubbing it with a rag or even a Magic Eraser. You definitely ascertain a big difference.
So, buy good-quality paint and then choose that sheen carefully unless, like you said- I actually don’t have much use for high-gloss covers but semi-gloss is my sort of go-to for trim.
LESLIE: Trim. Exactly.
TOM: And any surface that needs any kind of durability, like a cabinet door or something like that, I is very likely use a semi-gloss or maybe a high-gloss with that. But if I missed super soundnes, especially on boards, I might even utilization one that’s solvent-based over latex, simply because it’s a harder finish.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. But for me, I super love an eggshell finish on a wall. But you’re right: with eggshell, regardless of the quality it does convert the firmnes, when you emptied it, a little bit. And so, I’ve got kids, so I’m always cleaning the walls. So that doesn’t work for me in my home. In my bedroom, I’ve got eggshell colour and I cherish it. I wouldn’t introduced it anywhere else, though.
TOM: Alright. Julie in Nebraska, hope that helps you out.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a question here from Jim in Ohio who’s noticing that his sprinklers are spending a lot more time watering the sidewalk than the lawn. Is there a acces to adjust this?
TOM: Yeah. The only thing that thrives when you water your sidewalk is the size of your ocean proposal, right?
LESLIE: It’s true, though.
TOM: You know, I saw something like this, more. We were actually having some sweat in the cellar and we were wondering why that was happening. Now, we had a lot of downpour but my channels are adjusted perfectly. All the water’s discharging away. I’m thinking, “How is it possible the irrigate is getting in the basement? ” Until one night, I was up late and I heard the sprinklers hitting the side wall of the house. I’m like, “Ah! That’s the reason right there, ” because I was basically misdirecting the sprinkler.
So, yes, the sprinkler heads can be adjusted, Jim. They need to be point out here that apart from those walls and away from those sidewalks. And that is definitely something that you can do or can have a pro do. It should be used at the time information systems must be drawn up in the spring, so that they’re strove properly. But if they’re not or if they came out of whack, it’s certainly something that’s important to do so that you don’t drive up the costs of that liquid or stimulate other questions, like that I knowledge, with spray in the basement.
LESLIE: Yeah. Save your coin and when you want to splurge on water usage, make it a sprinkler for the children. Have some fun.
TOM: Well, hey , thank you for coming in for spend this part of the beautiful summer weekend with us. We’re so glad you’re now. If you’ve got the issues of projections you’re working on now or campaigns you’re thinking about tackle in the future or ones that you have put off tackling because you precisely didn’t know where to begin, you can reach us, 24/7, at 888 -MONEY-PIT. Post your questions to our Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit or post your question online to The Money Pit’s website at MoneyPit.com. There are lots of ways to get in touch with us and we’d love to help you get your projects done.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself ...
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
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