Need some additional prep gap in your kitchen? Tom& Leslie share gratuities for adding kitchen islands, even in small-time seats, and more including 😛 TAGEND
How to upcycle furniture for your kitchen island, including which cases procreate the best islands and a gimmick for having a kitchen island you can move out of the way when the additional opening is not needed.When you think of your ceiling – you don’t necessarily think of designer shades- but shade is where it’s at when it comes to your roof. We highlight the best roof colour veers for 2020. Got a dust-covered residence? Get tips on the most appropriate way to reduce dust build up automatically and emptying tricks to make even more dust disappear.Building a driveway marker can be a fun and practical DIY project that can step up your constrain appeal and improve home safety. Learn a few DIY gratuities for building that job.
Plus, get answers to home improvement questions about getting rid of mice in your attic, installing ceiling ignites without loopholes, hiring an electrician for GFI installation, tiling over asbestos storeys, best method to install channels and keep them clean, insulating crawlspaces, uneven heat in the home.
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question here.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: We are here to help you with your dwelling improvement and decor campaigns. So, if you’ve got a project in mind for today, tomorrow, this weekend, next weekend, later in the spring, whether it’s inside or out, we are your resources to help get that project done quickly and effectively, for the least amount of money put out to become your residence look absolutely spectacular.
You can help yourself firstly by joining the conversation. You can do that by calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Anytime you hear this program, that front will be answered by our sound screening crew. They’ll take your information materials and if we’re not in the studio, we’ll call you back. So, give us a scold, right now, and let’s get to work.
Coming up this hour, we’re going to talk about roofs. They take a real hitting during the winter. And if that is a project on your to-do list for 2020, we’re going to have a brand-new report on roof-color vogues, come through here in time a bit, to replenish you in on all the changes taking place.
LESLIE: And if you need some extra prep seat in your kitchen, how about adding a kitchen island to your infinite? We’re going to have some designing tips that can help.
TOM: Plus, lending a driveway marker can be a fun and practical programme that can help step up your restrain appeal and improve your home’s safety. We’ll have a few tips for structure that activity, merely ahead.
LESLIE: But first, we want to know what you want to know. What are you working on? What are you planning as the climate, perhaps, starts to warm soon? I’ve ever went, you know, high hopes that spring is on its way. So why not have some high hopes for some modifies at your fund pit? And we’re now to help.
TOM: Give us a bawl, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Ryan in Ohio, you’ve get The Money Pit. What can we do for you today?
RYAN: I’ve went insularity perturbs, because it’s merely drafty in members of this house. And I’ve got some can lamps in the upstairs that has the attic above, right?
RYAN: And they are non-insulation contact.
RYAN: And I bought some kind of a conversation equipment that proselytizes it to an LED. And what it does, it fastens into the socket.
RYAN: And then there’s two cables coming off of that and it pushes into an LED light. Once I do that, my question is: can I go ahead and isolate that are in a position or do I genuinely got to replace that can?
TOM: Man, that’s a great question. I’ve got some of those myself and in my situation, they weren’t going up into the attic. And I’m not really sure. I’m going to say that you probably can isolate over. But what I would do is I would get those illuminations, I would look up the manufacturer and I would query that question of the LED manufacturer.
TOM: Now, even if you can’t, you probably know that with insulation-contact types of light-footed fixtures- non-insulation-contact fixtures – you could still insulate that room but you have to box out around where those high hats come through the ceiling.
RYAN: Right. Right.
TOM: The other thing that you might want to think about doing is going up from the attic and closing the seam between the outside of that light-headed fixture and the drywall below. Because that might actually stop some of that enlist that you’re probably dealing with here. And I “know what youre talking about” that goes; it’s pretty annoying.
TOM: But I conceive I is sure to contact the LED manufacturer and asking questions if you have a non-insulation-contact high-hat daylight and you switch to the LED – you’re apparently not making as much heat, you would think. Although some of the LEDs do get quite heated, I’ve obtained. Some of them don’t but some of them do, so I would ask the question because their designers are definitely going to have calculated that before they framed that product on the market. OK?
RYAN: OK. I appreciate it. Thank you.
LESLIE: Ooh , now we’ve went Catherine from Colorado on the line. Not something we like to deal with: pest dominate. What is going on with the mice and the rats?
CATHERINE: Well, the downstairs in the house is not finished. So, somehow, they’re getting in downstairs and I witness little droppings, different epoches. So what I’ve been using so far is the- those green pellets of lethal? But I’ve heard from a friend that there is a new produce out there: the Ultrasonic Plug-In. So I wanted to get information about that, if you would know.
TOM: Yeah, I would bounce that. I think that’s kind of junk science. So, I would bounce any of those ultrasonic plug-in things.
What you want to do is a couple of things. First of all, you want to eliminate nesting localities. So around the area of your house, if you have firewood, trash cans, debris of any style that’s anywhere near the foundation, those are nesting neighborhoods for rodents. You remove these. Secondly, you push up any openings in the outside walls of that live. Now, mouse need something the size of about a quarter or even less to go far, so any openings should be plugged.
Inside the house, you want to make sure that there’s no meat for them. So, a good deal of durations, people will determine mistakes by providing food when they don’t realize they’re doing it. For precedent, I had a friend who used to keep her pet nutrient in the garage and it was a big sack, 50 -pound, whatever it was, container of pet meat. Never really even was pointed out that the mouse had dig themselves a nice, little front door for this that wasn’t self-evident. And they were just getting a big meal every single day from the pet food. So, look for things like that where meat is being left out for them. Moisture is also very attractive to rodents, so spray that rallies at the foundation perimeter can bring them in.
And inside the house, I think you’re doing the right thing employing the enticements and the deadlies, because that’s- they’re very effective with most of the baits today: for example, the d-CON. One ten-strike of that, so to speak, it makes them out. It’s just one and done.
So, I meditate all those things together is what’s going to control and abbreviate the rodent person around this house.
LESLIE: Now we’re heading to Missouri where Frank is on the line and has a question about humidity in a crawlspace. What’s going on?
FRANK: I have sweat built up in my crawlspace, on my joists. I improved a brand-new house and I have gravel on the dirt and concrete walls with no ventilates in it. And it’s solid humidity down there right now.
TOM: Wow. Why were there no volcanoes lay in the crawlspace, in the foundation walls? Because with a crawlspace, you always vent it, well, unless it’s foam insulation. And that’s a different story.
FRANK: I have not had foam insularity invested hitherto in my crawlspace. I am going to do that but I’ve got to get get onto dried up.
TOM: There is a way to do this where, basically, if the crawlspace is completely shut and if you use expandable spray-foam insulation, like an Icynene, you do not have to vent. But if you’re going to use fiberglass, then you do have to vent.
Now, if the question is how do I baked it out before I do the lotion, I guess you’re going to have to do that conventionally exactly with supporters and dehumidifiers and things like that. You’re going to have to wait for the brave to be right to do this. And that conveys it’s going to have to be the driest occasion of the year, when you have the least amount of condensation. And that’s not going to be the winter weather or the jug weather; it’s probably going to be the summer.
But I would talk with your insularity contractor. Get them involved now and get their recommendation on what the best time is to do this part of the project. But you do need to do it soon, one way or the other. Because otherwise, you’re going to get- that sweat is going to start to cause the floor joists to decay and rot. And that’s not going to be- that’s not going to have a good outcome, OK?
FRANK: Yes, yes( inaudible ). No , no. Not in a brand-new house.
TOM: So if you had- right.
By the style, one thing you could do in the meantime- and this will help reduce the amount of moisture- and that is to articulated some plastic across that entire crawlspace flooring. You wanted to some genuinely thick, heavy plastic sheeting and bun it out. If you have to overlap, overlap by at least 10 paws, those expanses. And that will stop a good hunk of the sweat that’s emanating up from the clay below. You’ll keep it underneath the plastic and that will help it dry out faster, because you won’t be duelling the brand-new sweat that’s coming in.
FRANK: OK. Then, my other question- I did throw plastic down first when- before I got the house improved. Then I settled gravel on top of that. Should I remove the plastic from underneath the gravel or leave it alone?
TOM: No. Nah, you could leave it alone. I make maybe if it was done that early, it are likely to be busted up by all the gravel. But no, you don’t have to worry about the mantles, in this case. Putting another blanket of plastic on top of the gravel is not going to be a bad thing. You may end up removing it when you are get all the insulation done. But if you’re going to do that, you’ve got to do it soon. Otherwise, you’re going to get decay.
You know, we’re talking about the difference between a vented and an unvented crawlspace and the same is true of lofts. I used to have a showed attic and I pertained spray-foam insulation to the underside of the rafters and in the different regions of the gable walls.
TOM: And now, I don’t need any ventilation in that attic whatsoever. And it’s the same temperature as the rest of the house, pretty much, even though it doesn’t have heating or cooling up there. If I drop down the attic stair, it’s basically like an extension of the rest of the house. So that’s the kind of effect that spray-foam insulation has. In your occurrence, it will likewise seal up …
FRANK: Our whole house is spray-foam.
TOM: Oh, so you understand this, though. OK. Yeah, well, why did you leave the floor out of it if you had the people there doing all that work? Why did you choose to not do the crawlspace?
FRANK: I didn’t know.
TOM: Ah, OK. Yeah. Well , now you do.
TOM: Alright. Well …
FRANK: But you’re saying, well, hey cover it with plastic then?
TOM: Yeah, I’m saying that if you introduced additional plastic sheeting down over that gravel and if there’s moisture that’s basically melting up from the grime below, that they are able to still help to slow it a little bit.
I would get in touch with your isolation contractor and figure out the best way to approach this. But you do need to get it done soon. Alright, Frank?
FRANK: Oh, I will. Yes, sir. Thank you for calling me back.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that assignment. Thanks for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Joan in Illinois on the line who’s dealing with a molding issue.
Tell us about it, Joan.
JOAN: Well, I’m wondering what causes dry rot and how you can tell if you have it.
TOM: OK. Well, what are you seeing, Joan?
JOAN: Coming down to the floor, there’s about an inch below the molding. And I took the carpet up and I watched sawdust down there. And I was just wondering if it was dry rot.
TOM: Alright. So, first of all, there’s no such thing as dry rot; there’s merely soak decomposition. Wood that comes soak- it gets over 25 -percent moist- can start to decay. Then, if that grove too bakes out, that’s what beings announce “dry rot” but it’s genuinely sort of a misnomer because it’s not really dry rot; it’s wet canker that has dehydrated out.
JOAN: Oh. So we can’t cause it by overheating or under-humidifying a house.
TOM: No. Well , not overheating but if you over-humidify, I guess it’s technically possible because you’d applied a lot of sea in there. But no, you’re not going to cause it by overheating.
In words of what you’re seeing under this molding, I think that would bear some extensive investigations. When you mentioned sawdust, I think about carpenter ants, for example. And so, I would make sure that I know exactly what’s motiving this.
One of the things that you could do is you could take a picture of it and you could post it to our Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit. We’ll take a look at it and give you an belief. Or you could post it to the Community section at MoneyPit.com. How about that?
JOAN: That sounds great.
TOM: Alright, Joan. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, when you think of your ceiling, you don’t undoubtedly think of designer colors. But colouring is where it’s at when it is necessary to your ceiling. And the newest pigment tendencies for 2020 are here.
LESLIE: That’s right. Gray, you guys, which is a very popular color for interiors is too expected to dominate exteriors this year. Super-neutral color and you can use it to anchor a lot of spirited dyes on the outside of your mansion, for siding, shutters, shave, landscaping.
TOM: Yeah. And light-green is also going to be a popular color for roofing, because it’s a confident colouring alternative that merges well with some of the neutral colors, like the gray that we just talked about, as well as the paste and the tan feelings that are so popular in siding.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And earth atmospheres have always been a popular choice for your ceiling. And that’s going to continue with green as another shade that we’ll determine on your roof surface.
Now, any of these shade options will help set off another tendency and that’s the return of a solid-white exterior.
TOM: I cherish white exteriors. It’s such a classic color.
And eventually, a trend that’s always going to be current: roofing fabrics that promotion fix your home more energy-efficient. So, a lot happening in the roofing business right now. If that’s a project that you’re planning for the year onward, utter us a summon. We’ll give you some gratuities, we’ll talk it through, we’ll try to figure out how you can save some money on that project. The list is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Heading over to Florida, where Peter has lost power in the bathroom.
Peter, what’s going on and can you meet what you’re doing?
PETER: Yeah, I had a GFI go bad. And when I went to change it over, for some reason I couldn’t get any juice to the receptacle underneath the sag. So, I get liquid to where I employed the brand-new one in but- so I went down to Home Depot- I listen to you folks all the time- and I got a brand-new one. And the gentleman over there told me to find the hot wires go and employed them on the crate where it says “line.” And then the other two hook up on the bottom of it.
TOM: Peter, do you know that the ground-fault circuit succeeded properly and then it stopped acting?
PETER: Yes, sir.
TOM: So it manipulated properly and then stopped wielding. Have you acknowledged that the ground-fault circuit interrupter could be doing its job and then there could be a problem elsewhere in the circuit?
PETER: Yeah, I didn’t yield a thought about that. No, I didn’t.
TOM: So, I is of the view that when ground-fault circuit interrupters start to trip, people say, “Oh, it must be a bad circuit breaker, ” and they don’t taken into consideration that the circuit breaker is, in fact, doing its chore spying a recreation of current to a ground informant and tripping to prevent you from getting a shock.
So, the mixture wouldn’t be inevitably first to supersede the anchor blame. I would probe further to see what exactly is happening and inducing that to junket. I review, based on your description of what you’ve done thus far, that this might be simply a little bit above your skills and capacity. And while we can respect the fact that you’re doing this on your own, when it comes to electricity you want to get it right. And if you were to miswire that and in fact, perhaps, you- there are different ways to hook up ground demerits. And if you do it one room, you can get it to jaunt and not protect the rest of the circuit. So, it would appear to be working accurately when, in fact, it wouldn’t.
So this is not the kind of thing I would recommend that you do yourself, Peter, with all respect. I is sure to have an electrician look at this because I suspect that the field mistake is doing its thing. They rarely go bad. And if it’s tripping, it’s probably junketing because something is going on elsewhere in the circuit.
The ground demerits will embrace everything that’s on that circuit. So if you had, for example, a release wire somewhere down the line and that was causing some sort of an arcing circumstance, that could trigger the field flaw to go off.
So, contact an electrician. This is the kind of job that you should not do yourself, because I want to make sure that the problem is what you think it is and it gets properly fixed.
Peter, thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Penny in Illinois is on the line and she’s dealing with some frost on a rhythm. Tell us what’s going on at your coin pit.
PENNY: Well, we have a brand-new home and the outside is where the meter is and stuff like that. Well, cold breath gets into that little tube expanse and then comes into the basement and throws a spot of frost on the wall in the cellar downstairs. And I was wondering if there was anything I can do to put something over that gas meter to protect it from get so cold.
TOM: You don’t have to worry about the gas rhythm coming- being protected, because gas rhythms are meant to be outside in all sorts of weather. That said, though, if you’re getting that kind of cold air in your basement, that’s got to be cause you large-hearted exertion loss. So I would try to seal those gaps where that cold breeze is getting in, to try to keep that space as heated as possible. Because that is going to add to your heating cost.
PENNY: OK. But I talked to the builder and he said you really can’t do anything inside because then you’re looking at a volley peril. If you try to insulate inside, then there could be a fuel mishap there.
TOM: What, in the cellar? With basement-wall insulation?
PENNY: I was thinking by where the gas rhythm was. That’s where I kind of …
TOM: But again, you don’t have to worry about the gas meter. That said, you can insulate any – you can add insulation to exterior walls and you certainly can add insulation near a gas meter. It’s not like it’s a source of kindle, OK? It’s a piece of gear where- through which all the plumbing delivers. But it’s not like there’s a flare there.
So if your builder is telling you that, it resounds to me like he’s trying to get out of a project.
PENNY: Gotcha. OK. Thank you. I revalue your assistance on that.
TOM: Alright, Penny? Alright. Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Tell that person to get to work.
PENNY: I will.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Joe in Michigan who’s dealing with a trough topic. Tell us what’s going on.
JOE: Hey, this ceiling, I need some help with. I bought the house about eight years ago. And it’s got a good ceiling on it but it appears that they tried to save some coin and have mortal make love. And what the problem is is the shingles don’t come out far enough from the top of the ceiling to get into the gutters. And there’s a metal strip that proceeds along, right at the bottom edge of the roof.
And from what I meet, it approximately ogles as though it’s turned around downwards as though if it were put in properly, it would extend out further to help get the water towards the troughs or into the gutters?
TOM: Hmm. OK.
JOE: So what- the mess I’ve got now is I’ve got all this water that’s hitting some discerns in the gutter properly and others not. And I’ve tried to push the gutters and sounds the troughs back up as far against the fascia as I can and I’m still get liquid through there and it’s frustrating.
TOM: Well, the metal airstrip is hurling me a little bit. Now, often, at the edge of the fascia, you’d have something called a “drip edge, ” which is sort of like a right-angle piece of trim that runs over the front of the fascia and up for the purposes of the roof. And it’s at a 90 -degree angle. Is that kind of what you’re seeing or not?
JOE: I had them install some aluminum over the fascia board but I don’t think that’s what you’re talking about. It is a channel of styles but it’s right on the top lip of the roof, if I’m explaining this right. You know where they first start putting the shingles on and then they start moving up forward? It’s like freedom at that rim, there’s a- there’s metal.
TOM: Are the shingles resting on top of the metal?
TOM: Regardless, the answer here is the same. What you need to do is to extend those roof shingles into the gutter. So, because there’s not a magic potion that will do that, the way to fix this is to get a flat disallow- and that’s a very thin pry bar. And you’re lifting up the leading edge of those shingles at the lower end of the roof edge. And you’re going to slip underneath some twinkling. And the twinkle that you would use is probably just aluminum-roll flashing, perhaps 6-inch or 8-inch-wide blink. And the most appropriate way to do this is in small-scale segments, because it becomes too hard to handle when you have a long piece.
And you run the blink up under the roof shingles and you make sure it gives past the ceiling shingles and prepares into the top of the ditches. So, essentially, what you’re doing is creating a connect to even off the distance between where the shingle purposed and where it actually should have ended, which is at the edge of the ditch. And this lane, when the water comes down the roof, it will decline from the shingle to the flashing to the gutter. Does that make sense?
JOE: Absolutely. And that sounds like something I can do, so I admire you and we’ll grant that a shot.
TOM: Yeah. Good luck with that job. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you’d like to step up the counter space in your kitchen, adding an island “ve been a big” alternative if you’ve got the room. Well , no doubt about it, you do need space if you’re going to add an island. And they’re frequently at least 24 inches by 36 inches and that’s at a minimum, you guys. I have considered some giant kitchen islands but let’s be realistic for the infinite you’ve got.
Now, first of all, your kitchen island doesn’t have to be made up of expensive boards. Instead, you can upcycle furniture, like maybe an old-time dresser or a vanity. We’re going to have some uprights online that you can check out at MoneyPit.com that will show you how to find a great piece of furniture and turn it into an island. So be taken to ensure that out.
Now, if your kitchen is on the smaller side, think about another option which is using a mobile kitchen go-cart. These can be smaller than small island developing itself. These kitchen go-carts can significantly improve your fix room because they’re compact, they’re super versatile and they come in numerous widths, forms, finishes, configurations. And you can push them aside, out of the way, when you don’t need them.
TOM: Good point. But while it’s hard to drop an island into an existing kitchen, designing an island into a brand-new kitchen does make a lot of gumption because that’s when things can be moved around and shifted to really maximize that flowing, as well as the countertop and cooking and closet space.
So don’t move those islands off the alternative index. There’s ever a space to get one to work in your kitchen. And believes me, when you have a lot of kinfolks that are helping in a really busy time- or like in my home, whenever you have a party everybody hangs in the kitchen- it genuinely does come in handy.
LESLIE: Jessica in Missouri is dealing with a flooring that’s sinking in on itself. What is going on over there?
JESSICA: Hi. I live in a 128 -year-old house and my kitchen floor has determined, maybe, in the middle. If everything is not fastened to my walls, it will go towards the middle of my floor.
JESSICA: Yeah. So I didn’t know if you guys had any considers about a amend on that, if you think perhaps it’s like a joist underneath there or …
TOM: Yeah, does it sit on a vault or a crawlspace, Jessica?
JESSICA: No, it’s dirt.
TOM: It’s dirt. So you can’t truly get under it?
JESSICA: I have a crawlspace that I can get underneath it but it’s in the opposite side of my house.
TOM: OK. So, can you get down there and physically examine the lights to see what’s going on?
JESSICA: Yes. But it would take the size of a small child to get underneath there.
JESSICA: So, there lies another trouble- is how to see what’s going on, where the best place would be to go in at to try to get that …
TOM: Listen, I must be given to do a plumbing restore activity on my own home, in a crawlspace that was about 6 inches taller than me flat on my back. So, I know how tough it is to work in spaces like that. You’ve got to kind of shimmy in to get there.
But the thing is, I am concerned with this slumping, that somebody has a look at that- those beams- to make sure there’s nothing structural going on, like a termite infestation or something of that sort. If it’s really regular sag, well, I convey there are some things that we can do from the top side to address that.
One of which comes to mind is that you could use a floor-leveling compound on this old floor. To do so, you are really talking about the part kitchen floor, including the cabinets. Because to do it just in the middle might not be enough. You certainly have to go wall to wall on this room. And because it’s a kitchen, it becomes very, very complicated to do that.
But the first thing is to evaluate the structure to make sure that there’s nothing going on there. And then the second thing is to look for a answer above it. It’s generally not possible to raise up a floor that’s already sagged, especially in a really old house, because it made 120 times to get in that position and you’re merely not going to bring it back up again. Sometimes you can reinforce it a little bit with some added beaming and stiffen it up a bit. But generally, if you want to level it, you’ve got to do that from the top side and not from the underside in an age-old live, OK?
JESSICA: OK. Alright. Well, thank you very much. I increase you guys’ time.
TOM: You’re very welcome.
LESLIE: Alright. Now I’ve went Ruth in Michigan on the line. How can we help you today?
RUTH: I have an older house that’s in need of some pizzazz and is ready to positioned shutters over my vinyl surfacing. Is that possible? And how would I attach them?
TOM: Yeah, it’s done all the time. And there are special hooks that are used in that situation so that you perforate the placing without starting a divulge to happen. And most of the shutter fellowships will sell those as part of the shutter, extremely, so you certainly can do that.
You do want to be careful not to squish the siding because, remember, the siding is somewhat soft. And so as long as you’re careful about the room they attach, you certainly can have shutters on top of vinyl. OK, Ruth?
RUTH: Alright. Well, good. I was wondering if it could be a do-it-yourself project.
TOM: Absolutely. Ruth, thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, you may have noticed that homes that really stand out are the ones that have a little something extra at the end of their driveway. And I’m talking about a driveway marker.
Now, there’s an aesthetic conclude, of course, to have one because they look nice. They start out your home from the street and they can named a color that’s precisely a notch above. But they can also help identify your home to anybody everyone is, from transmission people to, more importantly, first responders like fervor, police and EMTs.
TOM: Now, there are various types of driveway markers. You can use stone, brick, wooden, maybe a metal fence piece, you reputation it. The one that you pick, though, is completely up to you but you should be taking your home’s mode into consideration.
So, for example, if “youre living in” a modest Colonial mode, you don’t want to be putting in monstrous articles on the sides of your driveway. You genuinely want to consider four things: the immensity; the material; the reflectors, so you can be sure it’s seen; and of course, the station. You want to make sure your markers , no matter what material you use, are not going anywhere anytime soon.
And also think about the fact that you can incorporate a mailbox or a newspaper crate into these, as well as add lighting or house amounts. But one of the most common types is simply a white picket-fence vogue with precisely two simple recess on either side of your drive. You can use stock fence cases. It obliges the whole driveway stand out very nicely and it’s surely a do-it-yourself project.
LESLIE: Scott in North Dakota is on the line with a water-heater question. What’s going on?
SCOTT: I’ve got a cabin that we’re going to remodel and I was wondering if it’s better to go with a tankless water heater or a barrel one, because we’ve get- well, we’ve got to drain everything in the winter. But I was kind of looking online and material and what the difference between them. And the tankless ones only parent at a certain amount of temperature. And up now, the groundwater is usually about 40 degrees, so …
TOM: So, first and foremost, we’re talking about an electric water heater versus an electric tankless?
SCOTT: Correct. Yep, yep.
TOM: Yep. I would definitely go with an electric water heater. And I would install that spray heater on a timer so that you can control when it comes on and off. Because especially being a vacation property, you’re not going to want that on in the middle of the day. You’re probably going to want to have it come on for a few hours in the morning and a few cases hours in the night. And that will save you a great deal of cost.
SCOTT: Well, immense. That answered a lot of questions.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’re talking to Georgia in Texas who’s got a question about tile flooring. How can we help you with your assignment?
GEORGIA: Yes. I live in a house that my grandparents originally built back in 1950. The flooring in the kitchen is what I refer to as the aged linoleum. A rubber-topped linoleum is what I saw. But it is crumbling and someone at a tile arrange told me it is probably asbestos, because of the age of it. So, I have been told, yes, I can it rend it up and it’s OK or no, don’t mess with it and set something over it, like plaster committee, and then retile.
TOM: So, this tile floor is located where?
GEORGIA: In the kitchen.
TOM: And how aged is the tile floor?
GEORGIA: It was put in in 1950.
TOM: Well, if you want to determine whether there’s asbestos in it, you’d have to take a piece of tile and have it tested.
TOM: But if it’s the original floor and you want to placed a different flooring over it, there’s genuinely no reason not to. Laminate floor, for example, would be a good choice for a kitchen. And there’s no reason you can’t lay that claim over the existing tile.
GEORGIA: Well , no, it is literally cracking and disintegrating. I trip over it every day and another new portion travels flying across the floor.
TOM: Again, what I would do is I is more likely to not- tell you not to weeping it up. It’s most likely simply vinyl tile. But if you want to be safe, just leave it in place and go ahead and flooring right over it.
GEORGIA: OK. Well, I wasn’t sure, you know? The flooring underneath it- the timber underneath it- is still good. So, yeah, I merely wasn’t sure which direction to go or how to go about it, if I should go to the expense to putting in place the cement boarding and then set the- on top of the flooring, fastened it down and then applied tile over on that.
TOM: Well, why are you going to go about positioned the cement flooring down? Are you going to go about kept ceramic tile down?
GEORGIA: It’d be nice. I grew up announcing it “Mexican tile” or tile that’s shaped in Mexico.
TOM: Oh, OK.
GEORGIA: And it’s heavy and you’ve got to putty it and you’ve got to work with it and stuff.
TOM: Well, certainly, if you’re going to do it that way, you have been able gave the board underneath the tile, right on top of the flooring. There’s no reason you couldn’t do that, as well, OK?
GEORGIA: OK. Thanks.
LESLIE: Don’t forget, you can always post your question to us at The Money Pit’s page or on our Facebook page. And I’ve one here from Bob in New York who writes: “We had our live depicted a few months back but there’s a problem with the depict on the trim. You can easily scrape it off with your nail. Now, the painter says they want to wait and appreciate because paint can take a year to harden. But in the meantime, our room inspects shameful and the painter didn’t prime or sand the prune or anything before decorate, because he said it didn’t need it.”
TOM: Oh, lover, that’s so funny. I’m sorry to laugh but that’s a good text. “Yeah, it takes a year to harden. That’s why you can’t really – you’ve got to wait.” When a year goes by very, this guy- this painter- is going to be even farther gone than he is right now.
Look, this is not going to get any better. All the cover needs to be removed. I detest is to say this but the painter did not do his profession. The surface is going to need to be sanded and primary before another topcoat is applied. I don’t know exactly why it didn’t stick but I can tell you the prep is probably the number-one reason.
You shouldn’t have to wait to see how this is going to pan out. It’s probably- it’s bad right now and it’s probably due to the primer or most importantly, the paucity thereof the primer. But you’ve got to get down to solid skin-deep, add a primer and then repaint.
So, I’m not sure if even I would have this painter coming back here. Maybe you can negotiate a indemnity from the person but you really need to get a pro. Go to HomeAdvisor.com, predicted the reviews, find yourself a top-rated pro there. But this was done all wrong.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve get Chuck from L.A. who writes: “I moved into my current mansion five years ago and I’ve been taking on projects ever since. Now I want to tackle the master bathroom’s window that has a crank but I’m not really sure what the best way to go about secure this is.”
TOM: Well, inspect, unless you know the brand of the window and go to the manufacturer for permutation equipment, you may need to replace the window, which is not as pricey as you’d fear. But before you do that, look at the window glass very carefully. If it’s a thermal-pane window, in the corner you may find that the manufacturer is actually stamped on the glass. I did that recently and was able to order cranks for a space that was 15 years old.
LESLIE: Next up, Margo in Florida posted: “I have an electronic breath filter in my home and I’m wondering, how do I cleanse them? One pusher says vacuum, because could stimulate corrosion and malfunction. Another says cleanse with water.”
TOM: I’d stop listening to dealers and start talking to the manufacturer. I symbolize every manufacturer is going to have cleaning instructions for their special concoction. But I will say that in some cases, you can take that entire coil out- that’s the filter- applied it in a dishwasher, run it through a round and it’s fine. But perhaps with a newer one, where there’s more electronic components to it- so stop listening to these heating-and-cooling pushers. Go right to the manufacturer’s website. There ought to be a manual you can download. And I’m absolutely positive, Margo, it will have the accurate, up-to-date cleaning instructions for that special product.
LESLIE: You know, Margo, it’s so great that you’ve got the electronic aura filter in your residence, because it genuinely does a great job of scavenging the breath in your room. And it does a wonderful job so that you don’t have to do all the cleaning as often of those filters. But emphatically listen to what car manufacturers recommends, because they know their model and their produce best.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on aura and online at MoneyPit.com. Thank you for spending these sections of your day with us. We hope we’ve answered some questions that you had swirling around your president about how to improve your money pit. If you’ve get more questions, retain, you can reach out to us anytime you hear this program by scream 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If we can not simply in the studio, we will call you back the next time we are.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to do it alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No parcel of this transcript or audio datum may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Creation, Inc .)
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