In this chapter …
Do you have champagne home makeover dreams on a beer plan? We’ve get gratuities on 7 home remodeling assignments you can do with less than hundreds of thousands of horses, come through here.
Plaster walls are common in older residences- but crannies are almost as common after decades of rectifying. We’ll share a trick of the busines to make repairing those plaster sounds easy and fast.And, only because you are a renter, doesn’t mean you can’t make changes to cut heating expenses in your dwelling or apartment. We’ve went solutions to solve your vigor problems … including some that you can even make with you when it’s time to move on!
Plus, provide answers to your dwelling progress a matter of cutting a shelf to set wall gap, installing a vent duct, removing ugly wallpaper , repairing wall crackings, and coming rid of hot water heater sounds, and more.
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And what are you working on? If it’s your room, you’re in exactly the best place. If it’s your condo, your accommodation or even your yurt, you’re welcome, as well. Because whatever place you call “home, ” we’re here to help you make it better, make it safer, make it more pleasant, shorten your force expense and take on whatever project you’d just like to get done. Help yourself firstly, though, by make out to us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974 or post your questions on MoneyPit.com.
Coming up, do you have champagne home makeover dreams but a beer plan? Well, you do not have to give up those dreams. We’ve came tips-off on seven upgrades that you can do with less than a thousand bucks.
LESLIE: And plaster walls are common in older homes but crannies are almost as common after decades of terminating. We’re going to share a trick of the commerce to attain restoring those crackings easy and fast.
TOM: And hey, time because you are a renter doesn’t mean you can’t make a difference in your residence or accommodation to cut heating expenses. We’ve went solutions to solve your energy issues, including some that you can even take with you when it’s time to move out.
LESLIE: But first, we want to hear from you. What are you working on now, next week or even in the weeks onward? We’ve went 20 -plus years of experience between us taking on home improvement, remodeling, decor programmes. You reputation it, we’ve probably done it or at least one of us has done it and the other one’s researched it or facilitated. Whatever it is, we are a good team that can help you get the job done. So tell us what you are working on and make us demonstrate a hand.
TOM: I’d say it’s 20 times each but that determines us resonate too old.
LESLIE: Shut up. I’m exclusively 25, so I don’t is well aware that’s even possible.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974. Let’s get to it. Leslie, my young friend, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Dana in Iowa, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
DANA: Well, I have a shelf that needs to be cut down so it’ll fit in the locate of our -Aframe cabin that we just bought in the Ozarks. And so it’s about 20 inches towering and it’s about 3 feet long and it kind of has those baskets that fit in it. And so, what I’d like to do is I’d like to cut it at an direction so that it adjusts back in there and it’s not just sticking out into the flooring space.
LESLIE: So, Dana, what you need to do is that- genuinely, what you have to do is sort of resize this section so that it will be incorporated into that open-bay portion so that it’s not, as “youre telling”, sticking out into the room. And you really need to be inventive with the tilts to sort of figure out what needs to come out of where.
Can you tell me a little bit more about this -Aframe and the dimensions of the the shelf?
DANA: Well, the -Aframe is just a regular -Aframe; it goes all the way from the top to the peak, all the way to the ground level. And so I was trying to figure out, how do you figure the tilt so that I know what angle to cut this shelf on?
LESLIE: Well, there’s a tool that you’re going to want to get: T-bevel. And it’s like a plastic manage with this sort of a tic-tac, oval-shaped blade that’s got a slide set in the middle of it.
TOM: Blade. Mm-hmm.
LESLIE: And you’re going to open that up. You can get that at any implement domain at the home center.
LESLIE: And you’re going to want to open it up and you employed that right in the angle at the angle and then lock it in that position. And then you go ahead and situated that at your T-square and that’s going to tell you accurately the direction that you need to cut at. Or you can then take that T-bevel and go right up to the bottom of your shelf, placed it exactly where you’re going to want to kept that slouse and distinguish that line.
TOM: Yeah, it’s like an adjustable square and it’s called a “T-bevel.” And you should be able to find an inexpensive one, like Leslie said, at home center.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. It really is going to save your day and make this the easiest project.
DANA: Ours …
TOM: I use that all the time for different types of fancy mitering chips in, too, because there’s a couple of tricks of the trade where you can measure an tilt and then divide it so that you can make a miter that intentions up perfect on both sides.
And we also use it sometimes to set the slant on attend blades, so I think you’ll find that it’d be a unusually helpful tool for this particular project. OK, Dana?
DANA: Alright. Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Michael in North Carolina is on the line with a ocean heater that’s uttering some inquisitive sounds. Tell us what’s going on.
MICHAEL: Recently, the last four to six weeks, I’ve been noticing- it sounds like a bubble and a popping noise inside of the irrigate heater. I’ve spoke various things on the internet but I can’t relatively situated my paw on it and I’m worried that either the vessel is getting ready to go or- I’m not sure, at this point.
TOM: How aged is the water heater?
MICHAEL: It inspects to be of great age. I’m guessing between six and eight years.
TOM: Well, I necessitate ocean heaters generally go about 10 to 12 years, so that’s not- that’s kind of middle-aged; it’s not very unspeakable. By the action, if you look at the data plate on that water heater, typically there’s a date stamp sort of buried into the serial number. Sometimes, it’ll actually say what the appointment of the manufacture is or at the least, it’s going to have a gas standard in terms of which system it was built to and it’ll give you a year there. So you can get an actual impression of what the age of the sea heater is.
The noise is usually caused by a sediment buildup on the bottom of the tank. So, if you drain the cistern rarely, that will usually stop that. Have you ever drained your tank?
MICHAEL: In the eight months I’ve was just here , no. But I’d spoke something somewhere along the lines that you have to be very careful with- it’s got a plastic exhaust valve on it. And when you have a water heater that’s a little bit older, I suspect they get- become fragile. And I’m worried about breaking that and procreating things much worse immediately.
TOM: Well, you could very carefully try to drain the sea heater. You simply hook up a plot hose to that spout; it’s designed to be drained. And tell some of the irrigate out of it and try to spill off some sediment with that. You get sediment on the bottom of the tank and that does tend to make it somewhat loud sometimes.
MICHAEL: OK. Is there any chance that I have the temperature turned up too high and it’s causing- well, I approximate not at 125 severities. It wouldn’t cause a boil, would it?
TOM: No, it wouldn’t. And 125 stages, though, is pretty hot. You actually crave it to be more like 110.
TOM: Just for safety’s sake, if nothing else.
LESLIE: Yeah, because you could easily do scalded.
MICHAEL: OK. Alright. I’ll apply that a shot.
TOM: Alright. Good fortune with that projection. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Cecily in Iowa is on the line with a wallpaper conundrum. What’s going on at your coin pit?
CECILY: Well, I have a probably 24 -year-old townhome that I believe the paper has been on the wall since- for that long.
TOM: It was favourite back then.
CECILY: Yeah, yeah. Back then.
I’m just wondering- person I had in here been seeking to, where the wallpaper ass up against the ceiling, there’s- it looks like a bad position and there’s some crisscross. And he thought he could erase it down. And everywhere he mopped it down, there’s like a watermark all along where he- was like icicles: an erratic cable of watermark.
And I don’t know if it can- I’ve been told you can paint over it. We have vaulted ceilings; it’s a lot of newspaper. And I don’t know how you would- if what- they took it off. There’s actually some affixes papered with it and I don’t know what’s underneath.
TOM: I speculate the answer is you can remove it. It’s a lot of work, like any type of wallpaper.
TOM: If you want to paint over it, it’s going to look like the wallpaper underneath.
LESLIE: Textured paint.
TOM: It’s going to look textured underneath. So, if you want to do like a really inexpensive, short-term fix, you could paint over it. I would recommend that you use a exceedingly thick roller on that because otherwise, it’s going to be very hard to get the paint in where it has to go. And maybe you might even need to use a slitted roller: the kind of roller that we use on textured ceilings where it has actually kind of slots in it. Because it really comes in and around and thick-witted and will sort of fill out that whole surface with paint.
CECILY: Mm-hmm. Is it exceedingly difficult to remove?
LESLIE: It depends on how long it’s been there, what the prep process was to the wall below the paper. All of those can add up to an easy enterprise or a tremendously difficult job. And it’s one of those things that you don’t know until “were trying”. And there are ways to do it.
Now, with a textured wall submerge like this, whether it’s grass cloth or the fibre cloth, you can try to use a store-bought wallpaper remover, you can use a steamer, you can do homemade concoctions. One is white vinegar and hot water; another is fabric softener and hot water. Both places, you super-saturate the walls and just sort of cause it sit there for a few minutes. I’ve even heard of clothing starch with hot water and making a paste onto the wallpaper.
And I’ve consumed the fabric softener and that get to work. That was a traditional vinyl, which I had to score first. But I’ve likewise heard with grass cloths, that you can take a paint scraper and rub the actual string cloth or the grass cloth off of the backing, so that might make it easier to remove. Either way, it’s going to be a lot of work and you never know what’s behind it. You could get everything off and the wall could be so textured and dinged up that you end up having to articulated a seam of drywall over it anyway.
CECILY: Ah, OK. Alright. Well , thank you very much. That’s very helpful and I’m glad I called.
TOM: Well , no doubt some dwelling improvements expense a sheaf. But you’d be surprised to know how many can deliver a pretty big impact at a fraction of the cost, including seven cheap refurbishes you can do with less than hundreds of thousands of horses. So we’re going to walk you through those.
LESLIE: Yeah. Let’s start in your kitchen.
Now, upgrading your kitchen wield skin-deeps is an affordable home increase because there are various stylish, budget-friendly fabrics out there to choose from, including dark-green options like stainless steel, cast concrete and solid surfacing. Now, modernizing your locker hardware, lend some new colour and your kitchen is going to look brand new.
TOM: And then there’s the bath, generally a very costly update for such a tiny apartment. But if you only kind of accessorize that lavatory, you can increase water savings, comfort and safety, specially if you plan on being in your home for a while. These could include easy-to-grab door and board hardware, rocker swaps, grab saloons and even water-saving shower fixtures or a water-saving toilet.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And then, of course, there’s my secret decor weapon and it’s genuinely no secret, guys. I’m speaking about paint.
Paint is really underrated. It is the easiest, cheapest and most transformative home betterment concoction out there, so use it. Gallons of dye, you’re going to vary in price point from about $35 up to $ 165 a gallon, depending on the firebrand creator that “youve selected”. So, you can find a depict gallon that’s cheap for you and you can pick a color that will totally transform the space. And you can go large-scale and forceful or you can go tried and true. Whatever it is, it’s going to make a great difference.
TOM: And if you are painting a apartment, you get to empty it. And that’s a great opportunity to organize, which is our next gratuity. You should organize to create more infinite and less jumble. Betters like shelving and safe storage zones are inexpensive and can alter a exceedingly crammed garage or a family room or a kid’s room into a lieu that you can actually get stuff done and readily access everything you need.
LESLIE: Yeah. Next, we’re going to talk about outside, because outdoor living is huge.
Now, build a small deck or even a porch of brick, natural stone or plaster pavers can expand both your living space and your home’s value. And you can also update landscaping or improve your figurehead entry doorway. And that’s going to boost your curtail appeal.
TOM: And a great way to strain your dollar is to make improvements that save money, like updating your home’s insulation. These are easy, cost-effective improvements that’ll bring you good bang for your buck for many years to come.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Dave in Ohio who’s dealing with some strata in the drywall. Tell us what’s going on.
DAVE: Well, my garage- my appended garage- is finished but I’ve noticed that in the wintertime, the seams will pop and crack. And then over the summer, I retaped and respackled and repainted and that was in May. And then by December, the government has popped again and it’s getting genuinely exasperating. It’s likewise uninsulated. It’s unheated and uninsulated, so I’m trying to figure out what I can do to fix this permanently.
LESLIE: Well, the questions that you’re dealing with, chiefly, is that you’ve got drywall in an unconditioned seat. So you’re going a lot of fluctuation throughout the seasons, which is causing those seams to sort of open up and become visible for you.
Now, when you’re repairing them, are you using traditional drywall tape or are you using that mesh strip?
DAVE: I’ve been using- I squandered the mesh strip this last-place time.
LESLIE: OK. And still it sounded open again?
DAVE: It still popped, yes.
TOM: Did you reversing the aged strip before you settled the mesh tape down?
DAVE: Yes, yes.
TOM: How many layers of spackle did you putting in place?
DAVE: After the videotape, I believe it was one.
LESLIE: OK. You’re supposed to do three.
You want to start with one that’s nearly the size of the videotape, smooth it out, cause it cool, sand it down. Put another mantle, get a little bit wider, feather out, let it dry, sand it down and go with your widest, let that cool, sand it. And that actually seals the videotape in and allows for a smooth change. You’re dealing with a finished garage but it’s still a garage opening. You want it to look good but you’re putting an ugly lot of work into it.
TOM: This is like Groundhog Day Home Improvement: every day you wake up, you’ve got to do it all over again.
The thing is that when makes erect these rooms, they’re not required to leant more than one coat of spackle on because it’s just for fire resistance. So we end up get fix with these residences that have videotape that fell out of over the years because it only wasn’t finished/ spackled. So, the key here is to remove the old-time, loose videotape; beach the province so you have good adhesion. Not aggressively but merely lightly sand. Use the perforated strip that’s like the sticky-backed perforated tape, kind of looks like netting. Three coatings of spackle, prime, colour and that ought to be permanent.
DAVE: OK. That sounds great.
TOM: Alright, Dave. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Mike in Iowa is on the line with a venting question. How can we help you?
MIKE: Yeah. I was listening to one of your testifies earlier and you were talking about how the lavatory vents are expressed into the attic?
TOM: Yeah. Mm-hmm.
MIKE: And I have that problem seeing that. I signify it’s right into my separation; it’s not expressed out by any means.
TOM: Yeah, yeah. A very common problem.
MIKE: I was wondering the best- yeah, what’s the best way to fix that difficulty?
TOM: OK. So what you want to do is you want to install a duct- a expres canal- and you can use flex duct for this. That will take it from the shower weary supporter to a discharge point.
Now, where the discharge point is is going to be up to you. A bunch of options. Often, you can take that out to the nearest side wall, like a gable wall, and bring it right through the wall. And you would use a completion quality- a discharge point. It’s like a piece of flashing that has a hood on it and causes the aura get out and then clicks shut and it stops it from getting wet.
You could also take it and you could drop it into a soffit but you have to actually bring it through the soffit again, into a grid so that it’s not clogged. So you can take the duct and drop it down so it points towards the vented soffit right out. Or you can take it up further and point it right at currently available roof vent. Now, I don’t like that as much because I think that the higher you try to lift that breeze, the less effective it’s going to be. But that is an option. You can bring it straight up and stage it at currently available roof vent and make it exhaust there.
MIKE: Well, my house is about six years old and I’m wondering- I’m paying moderately high-pitched force bills regarding the heat.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Because what happens is when the separation get moist from all that moisture that’s being dropped into the attic, it absolutely chips down on the R-value of the separation. So you are required to get that shown outside, whether it’s through the siding with one of those trap doors that sort of opens out every time you’ve got it on or through the soffit. But you want to keep it the shortest run so that you can effectively move that air.
Now, if you’re evaluating what’s going on with the separation up in the attic, you really need to look at how much tighten is there, what is the condition.
Are you talking about pink fiberglass batts?
MIKE: It’s got a grey fiberglass.
LESLIE: It looks like it’s blown in?
LESLIE: Yeah. You can add more blown-in, because you want it to fill up to the floor joists when you’re examining up in your attic flooring. You want it to sort of reach the height of that bay and you can do that with more blown-in or what you can do is just take rosters of fiberglass and exit horizontal to your storey joists, just to sort of make up and computed some oomph to the R-value. And that will really enhance your insulative value. But you do have to vent that outside.
MIKE: OK. Alright. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Mike. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ben in Illinois is on the line and is having some issues with a sea heater. Tell us what’s going on.
BEN: Over a period of time, my hot-water stream would prevent getting smaller and smaller and smaller. And ultimately, it got to the point where I’d turn the hot water on, it would just barely trickle. I undid the discharge pipe on the discharge side of the hot-water heater and found that the lime had built up so bad in the pipe, coming out of the top of the hot-water heater, that there was just a very tiny depression there.
BEN: At that point in time, I didn’t know what else to do. I only made a very large screwdriver and tapped that limestone out of there. Of track, that precipitated to the merits of the hot-water heater. It’s been punishment for about four-and-a-half years. It’s getting to the point where I’m going to have to make love again.
And I’ve talking about here retired plumbers in that and they told me that what’s generating that is a reaction between the copper tube and the metal that is on top of the hot-water heater. And I was told that there was like a nipple that you shafted on top of the hot-water heater and then connect your copper pipe.
My question is: what type of metal is that that starts between the copper tube and the metal marrying on top of the hot-water heater?
TOM: Yeah, Ben, all you want to do is head to a plumbing equip house and ask for plastic-lined nipples. That actually is going to create the sort of the bi-metal protection or isolation between those two hoses. And that will stop that corrosive gist that you’re seeing and of course, they’ll stop the pipe from clotting as a result of that.
BEN: Alright. Well, I sure thank you for your time and your advice.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, long before we had walls made of drywall, plaster was information materials of preference for wall-and-ceiling construction. But often, older dwellings terminate and that allows crackings to flesh in the plaster. And we all know that merely painting over the rifts solves nothing. And snapping off all the plaster to redo it can be time-consuming and actually not exceedingly economic. But there is a way to amend those plaster cracks.
TOM: Yeah. There really is only one correct way to draw the mends to plaster walls that’s going to really last and ogle good. But firstly, let’s start by talking about how plaster-and-lath walls are created, because it’s important that you know how they’re thrown together.
First, you have lath. That’s a lumber piece, kind of like- I always think of it as the size of a tomato post. You know the kind of ventures you throw in the sand for your bushes to climb onto as they’re growing in the summer?
LESLIE: That’s true-blue. That’s a good comparison.
TOM: And that is laid over the framing. So it’s laid over the 2x4s which, in the case of an older house, you are well aware, is really a full 2-inch by 4-inch horizontal stud. So, really big beams.
And then, what happened after that the plasterer would actually push the plaster through that lath, because it’d have little gaps behind it, and coerce it out the back. And it would create sort of a secure to grab onto the lath. And that’s the finished wall. It’s multiple coatings, of course, but virtually it’s the plaster pulped through that lath. And that’s what causes it to stay and inspect good for, I’d say, the first hundred years or so.
LESLIE: Now, what about the crannies? Because I feel like those form very easily and really, what’s the best way to restore them and to be maintained apart?
TOM: Yeah. Well, what happens is those little plaster hooks or plaster thumbs will loosen up over meter. And then the plaster starts to move a little bit and it’ll start to crack. So, here’s how you secure that.
First thing you do is you take a masonry bit, which is a drill bit that’s designed to go into concrete. And it’s actually easier to use than drilling into concrete. But you want to drill holes along the two sides of that cracking, kind of right in the middle of that fissure. I’d put one about every 6 inches. Then I require you to grab a vacuum cleaner to clean out all the loose dust from those plazas that you taught and anything that’s in that crack.
And then what you’re going to do is to apply an adhesive, something like a creation cement, like perhaps a LIQUID NAILS. And mash a good lowering of it into that hole until it kind of starts to come out. And then you can wipe off the excess. And that’s actually going to be the adhesive that sort of holds that back into place.
LESLIE: Now, how do you make sure- I necessitate now you’re doing so much work and it’s separating and things are going on in that wall formation itself. How do you ensure that that plaster is going to sit tight against that lath again?
TOM: Ah, so a little trick of the craft for that. It is called a “plaster washer” or a “plaster button.” If you know what a fender washer is, it’s like a really big washer with a really small hole in it. That’s kind of what this is. And essentially, what you do is you drive a bolt right through the middle-of-the-road of that plaster washer or the plaster button and it- I would frame it right into the crack, right in the middle of the crack. And it will pluck the two sides of it in nice and tight.
And then you leave it there while that adhesive that we just talked about is drying. And once it’s dry, you can remove those plaster buttons. And then you can softly sand it, perhaps put a delightful layer of spackle on top of it or maybe a thin layer of plaster and you will be good to go. So use those plaster washers to hold that plaster in place while the adhesive dries and then you are all set.
LESLIE: And remember , now would be the excellent time to choose a brand-new cover shade, so go ahead and be adventurous with your design.
TOM: Well, you know the three more expensive utterances in residence improvement, Leslie?
LESLIE: While you’re at it?
TOM: Might as- well, that’s the four most. Might as well is what I was thinking but OK, yeah, while you’re at it or might as well, right? If you’re going to do all that work on your walls, hey, you might as well paint the office at the same time.
LESLIE: Might as well. And then that new chair would look really great or that new bedding.
TOM: Splendid, yeah. There you go.
LESLIE: Oh, my God.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show where, as you can tell, we’re not shy about spending money when it comes to our own residence improvement projects. But we’d like to help you get yours done, perhaps invest a little money the right way and make sure everything “re coming out” precisely as you envision it.
Call us right now. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. You can call 24/7. Because if we are not in the studio, we will call you back the next time we are.
LESLIE: Dreama in West Virginia is on the line and could be dealing with a structural problem. Tell us what’s going on at your money pit.
DREAMA: Yes. I obtained a live about 13 years ago and members of this house is approximately 30 years old. And all of a sudden, last year, in the load-bearing center wall, I started going a hit. And now, within a year, that crack has gapped nearly a 1/2 -inch wide and it’s also- I noticed another chamber has a crack now. So I had a local handyman look at it and he suggested that I throw in three wharves- pillars- to support the center wall.
And I guess my question is- I haven’t had an official, gigantic building corporation look at it more. I’m getting ready to do that but I wanted to educate myself a little bit more. What would you all suggest?
TOM: How long have you been in this house?
DREAMA: Thirteen years.
LESLIE: And this is new.
DREAMA: Just started about a year ago.
TOM: See, here’s the thing. If you call a contractor, you’re going to get a contractor’s answer, which is to hire them to got something. What I would suggest you do firstly is to get an independent expert ruling , not undoubtedly an belief from a contractor. So your options on that are two: one is low cost; one, I “re just saying”, is moderate cost.
The low-cost option would be to find a neighbourhood professional home inspector. You can go to the website for the American Society of Home Inspectors. That’s at ASHI.org- -AS-H-I.org.
TOM: And you can put in your zip code. They’ll shoot back a roll of certified professional home inspectors in your region. You can call from that listing, find someone that’s experienced and have them look at it. Because they’re time there to be informed about what’s going on and what begun it and what it’s going to take to fix it.
The second nature to go, which is the moderate rate, is to actually hire a structural engineer. Now, why may wishes to do that, Dreama? Well, you might want to do that- if this is a fairly obvious problem, you want to certainly preserve the value of your house.
TOM: And if you have a structural architect look at it and write a report as to what’s going on and what it’s going to take to fix it and then you actually commit that report to a contractor and say, “This is what I miss you to do, ” and then you have the engineer sort of recertify that it was done correctly. It’s kind of like having a pedigree that the mend is done correctly and then kind of sell with your home, so to speak.
Problem with contractors is that they’re not structural operators; they’re just helpful guys and they think that they have the expertise to fix stuff like this and they just don’t. They don’t have the schooling, they don’t have educational institutions, they don’t have the training. And so, that’s not inevitably the most efficient way to go about dealing with a situation like this.
I am a little concerned that it happened over this past year, because it sounds like it’s active and we want to get to the bottom of why it’s active and why it’s showing up all of a sudden.
DREAMA: Well, someone had mentioned that it’s a alternative- we’ve had a lot of cool- various baked summers and- because that could cause a settling in the foundation. Is that probable? I’ve never heard of that before.
TOM: No. I convey there are some swelling grimes that behave differently when they dry out a lot but listen, there’s going to be a lot of minds. Every neighbor you ask is going to have a different one. What we’re trying to do is move you towards an expert opinion so “youve been” know what you’re dealing with.
So, as I said, contact a professional home inspector or a structural operator. Get the assessment. It’s well worth noting. Your home is a big investment. We want to make sure it’s protected, OK?
DREAMA: I hadn’t was just thinking about a home inspector. Thank you very much.
TOM: Well, heating an suite is the single biggest energy expenditure during the winter. But while homeowners can do things, like obtain a new energy-efficient heating system, renters don’t have the same alternatives to improve the heat in a home they don’t own. Or do they?
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, even if you’re not responsible for your apartment’s heating bill, there are investments that can help you feel warm all winter long.
Now, if your apartment’s heating system and rental agreement grant, you are able to have a programmable thermostat installed.
TOM: Yep. And you can use that thermostat to reduce the hot overnight when you’re sleeping and then come up again in the morning before you awake. And then you can have it scoot down during the day when you’re away. This is going to allow you to set a comfortable heating routine and pocket about 150 bucks a year in energy savings.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you can also make sure that any heating registries that you’ve get in the apartment are unobstructed. You know, don’t situated furniture or window coverings in front of them. You want to make sure that the warm breeze can spurt freely into each of the apartments in the apartment.
Now, if your gang has radiators, you want to slide heat-resistant reflectors between them and the walls. And that’s going to send even more warmth immediately into the room.
TOM: Now, don’t forget about all those targets drafts get in. You want to seal all of those escape street around spaces and doors. And use a removable caulking commodity. You can add weather-stripping to doors, windows and if you’ve got one in your accommodation, the attic hatchway, which is an often rejected departure for warm air. If you’ve got a hatch that goes up to the attic, make sure it has a weather strip all the way around it.
LESLIE: Now, you also want to turn off heating legions in the apartments in the apartment that you’re not using. And slammed the doors to keep that warm air moving exclusively into the areas that you occupy.
TOM: So, whether you own or not, there are things that you can do that are either free, inexpensive or small investments that you can take with you when you move. Whether you leased, whether you own, it’s all a possibility.
LESLIE: Give us a call anytime. But retain, you can always post your questions at The Money Pit’s Facebook page or anytime at The Money Pit’s website, MoneyPit.com.
Now, we’ve got a post here from Hal in North Charleston, South Carolina who writes: “I time put one across a brand-new shingle roof on our single-story duplex six months ago. We’ve get very large pine trees in the backyard and pine straw is piling up on the ceiling. How shattering is that straw to the roof and do I need to clear it off periodically? ”
TOM: It’s simply impairing emotionally. I mean you’ve got a new roof, you dislike insuring it all dirtied up with the yearn straw. But actually, that is not going to cause any physical shattering whatsoever.
Now, of course, you are well aware, it could potentially clog your gutters. It’s pretty good at blocking troughs, even those that have some channel plasters on them. So, I would simply got my eye on the channels, Hal, but I don’t think it’s going to damage the ceiling at all. It’s exactly a ordinary sort of condition for residences that are under those sortings of trees. So I think you’re good to go.
LESLIE: Alright. It’s still a great deal of work but don’t is concerned at it being damaging to the house.
Next up, Gene in Summerville, South Carolina writes: “We have a fireplace and would like to kept a pass-through, like the age-old milk ones, for the firewood. Is there anywhere we can get one of these or is there a style to make one leakproof and bug-proof? ”
TOM: Sure. It depends on how resourceful you are. But first of all, there are pass-throughs that are available commercially. They’re used for many different purposes or they’re abused- a pass-through might be used, for example, in a chamber that’s a clean-living apartment where they’re actually carrying out activities in, say, an area where they’re representing something that has to be perfectly empty. A batch of electronics mills have pass-throughs. So I know they attain them. I’ve also seen that they can be insulated and watertight.
In addition, what you could do, if you were handy, is you could basically build one the same way you are able to build an exterior door.
And ultimately, a good deal of doggie openings really are following the same styles of principles as you might have in a pass-through. So, that might be another option where you could actually find a doggie-door design that worked, as well.
So, there’s a number of ways to get those. I said here today that in the best-case scenario, though, it is going to be source of potential energy leakage. Because no matter how good it is, it’s still going to probably be not as good as the wall would be solid. So, I know it looks great but if you really, genuinely want to go there, is moving forward. But I still think there’s going to be a cost to it, in matters of wasted energy.
LESLIE: Do you have to worry about security issues with something like that?
TOM: Well, yeah, that’s a good point, as well. And we’ve heard about cases where the skinny robbers can slip through the pet doors. So I don’t check why that couldn’t be another way that they are generally will get in.
Chloe from New Jersey is writing that her daughter exactly turned 13 and has a brand-new ability of independence and really wants to transform her bedroom from the princess chamber that we thought was fine and never wanted to grow out of, to a area that a young teen would be happy to spend her next few years in.
Leslie, how do we pick the complexion to get started?
LESLIE: Oh, geez. I think you’ve got to ask your kid what pigment they’re into. And you’ll be surprised. I gambling they have a lot of minds once about how they miss this room to look.
So, obviously poll your teenage, referendum their own children. Find out what emblazons they’re into. Plainly, if they’re getting too crazy or it’s something you’re worried about covering up in the future, talk them through with this.
Also, ask them to attract some experiment ideas and maybe something they like from a store or something they encountered online. Everybody’s doing a Pinterest board. Have them do it and then sort of narrow it down. Remember, select samples. Try it out on the wall first and have fun.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, thank you for coming in for expend this part of your epoch with us. We hope that we’ve given you some tips and opinion that you can use to impel your dwelling more cozy, more energy-efficient and heck, more merriment. If you’ve get questions, retain, you can reach us any time of the day or light by term 888 -MONEY-PIT or announcing your question at MoneyPit.com. If we are not in the studio when that question comes in, we guarantee you we will try to call you back the next time we are.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No fraction of this record or audio folder may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc .)
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The post Episode #1972: 7 Residence Remodeling Projects Under $1,000 | Quick Fix for Cracked Wall | Money Saving Heating Tips for Renters showed first on The Money Pit.