If you’re fortunate enough to have beautiful, salvageable hardwood floors, refinishing them on your own is a definite DIY possibility. The cloths are readily available, the tools are inexpensive or can be easily hired, and the results are always worth the effort.
As with any home better assignment, readying is important. And although hardwood floor refinishing are unlikely be tackled by a homeowner, depending on how heavily injured your flooring is, you might need to call in a pro to handle the sanding section of the working. Here are the steps to take toward brand-new life for your floor.
Step 1: Get ready for refinishing
Refinishing your floorings will take a room out of service for some time, quite possibly for longer than you’ve originally scheduled. Use this opportunity to remove, storage or toss anything that you don’t need on your action to creating the blank canvas of a flooring you’ll need to work on.
Step 2: Vacuum the old floor
Remove as much dirt as possible so that it doesn’t mix in during the sanding process and further grime the storeys.
Step 3: Best way sand a hardwood floor
Sanding the storey is an important step. If it isn’t mischievously injury, a illumination sanding will do, but if it is detriment or you’re changing the color of the timber and need to remove all the old-time stain, then a heavier sanding should be used. For light sanding, tariff a storey buffer with a sanding screen or use a machine called a ” U-sand .” However, if the storey is badly damaged, a storey loop sander is needed. This is a difficult tool to use, so unless you have lots of experience, hire a pro to handle this step.
After sanding, you’ll need to do a good job of removing as much dirt as is practicable. Vacuum the storey exhaustively, use a tack cloth, or damp-mop it. If you don’t remove the dust, it will get caught in the new finish, float to the surface and make it rough.
Step 5. How to apply finish to a hardwood floor
Use an angled brush to “cut in” the brand-new finish along the walls. Then, abusing a lambswool applicator( this was like a sponge wash and is available at most home improvement cores ), apply oil-based polyurethane, driving your way out of the area as you go. Apply two to three thin hairs, standing slew of bone-dry time in between. Although water-based polyurethane is available, we don’t recommend it for floorings. It simply doesn’t wear nearly as well and with the work it takes to refinish a storey, it’s not a project you’ll want to repeat anytime soon.
After the last coat of polyurethane, you’ll need to plan to be off of the floors for several hours of foreseen drying time. In fact, it’s best to avoid heavy traffic on a flooring for several days after the last coat is applied to give the finish time to really set in. However, if practical detours aren’t available, exert drop cloth for a few days over the areas you need to walk on. This’ll protect them while allowing fairly air to get to the floor so that the drying process can continue.
Move your furniture back in, plop down on the couch and say a little prayer that you didn’t really scratch the recently refinished storey!
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