In This Episode…
Whether you’re creating a kid’s room for a new arrival or updating a cavity for boys who contend they’re not little anymore, working on a child’s room can be a merriment, imaginative adventure. Tom and Leslie walk through the key motif considerations for this important space. Plus…
Spring showers and softening snowfall can leave your yard a mushy mess. We testify you how to dry up those soggy and soggy yards so you can enjoy them all spring and summer long.Basements are one place that do soften and can become difficult to finish. But an cunning new floor product can place some length between you and the damp- we’ll share that tip.
Plus, answers to your home progress questions including, clothes dryer that don’t dry, cracked door makes, installing split ductless heating and A/ C, pros of laminate flooring, water injured ceilings, cleaning rusty water discolours and plaster wall repair.
Do you have a home improvement or decoration question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question here.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And welcome to this episode. If you’ve got a home, we know you’ve got home increases on your to-do list. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow but maybe for the weeks and months onward. If you’ve got a project you’d like to take on, you are in the right place because we are here for one rationale and that’s to help you get the job done as quickly, effectively and economically as possible. You’ve got to help yourself first, though. Pick up the phone and call us with that question. The figure is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. You can also go to MoneyPit.com and affix your questions there.
Coming up on today’s show, whether you are creating a kid’s apartment for a new arrival or updating a opening for babies who insist that they’re precisely not little anymore, working on a child’s room can be a very fun, artistic undertaking for both you and their own children. So we’re going to have some tips-off that can help with that assignment, just ahead.
LESLIE: And likewise onward, springtime showers and softening snowfall can leave your yard a sticky mess. We’re going to show you how to dry up those gardens so that you can enjoy them all spring and summertime long.
TOM: And speaking of moisture, cellars are one place that get soften and can become really hard to finish. But now there’s an cunning brand-new floor product that can actually threw some interval between you and that mute floor. We’ll share that tip, in simply a bit.
LESLIE: But first, we want to know what you are working on. It’s virtually spring. I’m going with it. Maybe the weather’s going to turn really soon and everybody’s going to get outside and start enjoying themselves. So, what can we do to help you get your money pit ready for a terrific outpouring and summertime season? We’re standing by, so apply us a call.
TOM: I think we can call it “pre-spring.” That’s our brand-new season. We’re in the pre-spring season.
LESLIE: I’m going for it.
TOM: Give us a bellow, right now, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Robert in North Carolina is on the line and is dealing with a dryer that- guess what?- exactly is not drying. That’s the worst. Tell us what’s going on.
ROBERT: Well, I’ve got a dryer; it’s about five or six year. And here, lately, for about the past six or eight months, it’s taken sometimes three rounds to baked a medium-to-large size load of clothes.
TOM: Oh, that spawns no sense.
ROBERT: Yeah. And the heating element was replaced maybe a year-and-a-half, two years ago. We exactly don’t know what’s going on with it.
TOM: Do you get good airflow when the dryer leads, where it’s pushing warm air out the exhaust duct?
ROBERT: Yeah. I started up to the roof one time when it was pas and it was coming out of there reasonably good and the breeze was warm.
TOM: You merely may have disclosed one question. When you take a dryer vent and you propagandize it up against gravity- and so it’s driving all the way up to the roof from, I presume, the second floor- a dryer is not really designed to do that. And I know that a lot of goes, tribes install them that course but trying to force that hot air to go up all of that interval to the roof can sometimes be problematic.
Look, if your dryer’s not heating properly, there’s merely a few things that could be inducing that. One is the heating element. So, let’s presume that this is working properly, although it certainly seems- sounds like it’s not. There could be multiple heating elements and one could be burned out. This is a rationale you feel some warm air.
The next thing is the ductwork and you want to make sure that that’s clean. Not simply the external ductwork but even internally. Sometimes, if you get something stuck in the internal ductwork in the dryer, that can block some of the airflow itself.
TOM: And the other thing that can happen is sometimes it can overheat and then cycle. So, if it’s overheating, what’ll happen is it’ll get really hot and then it’ll overheat and the heating element will go off. And then it’ll cool down and then it’ll come on again, it’ll get really hot and it’ll go off. And that kind of cycling of a thermostat can be a problem, as well.
I planned at this degree, it resonates to me like you’ve done almost everything that you can do on your own. You might was intended to either supplant it or get wise serviced.
How age-old is the dryer?
ROBERT: Probably no more than six years.
TOM: Yeah, well, you are well aware, six to eight years is not a abysmally short period of time for a dryer. So, you might want to think about replacing it or coming a pro to fix it. Because I think it’s probably one of those three things that’s generating the issue.
ROBERT: Yeah. And another thing, it’s got about between 20, 25 hoofs of- it has the corrugated pipe. And we were thinking about changing that to the smooth, stovepipe kind of duct. Would that help, likewise?
TOM: Where is this 20, 25 hoofs? You want from the discharge port all the way up to the attic where it exhausts?
TOM: That’s a long way and certainly, a solid metal duct is going to be better. Can you go up into the attic and then go sort of across the attic flooring and down towards the soffit and invest a vent-hole right there?
ROBERT: It’s probable. It’s simply a single-story house, so I’m sure I could do that. But the laundry room is in the middle of the house.
TOM: I’ve got to tell you, even if you had that venting perfectly, three- running this thing for three loadings to dry one laden of clothes sounds like it’s something else and not consequently thoroughly venting.
ROBERT: OK. Yeah, we were thinking about- merely don’t think it’s worth it to call somebody out there to fix it. We’ve got- we knew a moderately respectable dryer. We know person that runs a childcare core and uses the one we’re thinking about getting. And they run it five, six times a day and they’ve had theirs for three years.
TOM: I think that realise ability. Regrettably, these products today are almost expendable because the cost of repair is so high-pitched. I will give you one other suggestion. There’s a website announced RepairClinic.com that’s pretty good at helping you identify problems with appliances and then selling you the constituents you need to fix it.
So, you may want to take a look at that. They have a little tool there where you can put in your prototype numeral and it’ll walk you through the scenarios. And who knows? It might be a common problem with that particular model.
Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Betty in Texas, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
BETTY: We live in a ranch-style home and “weve had” several bedrooms and bathrooms where the door formulates- up above the door makes on really one feature- are cracking. And we have repeatedly had contract workers out here to repair them and it has not held.
TOM: You feel like it’s Groundhog Day? You’re fixing the same thing over and over again?
Yeah, it’s fairly common. Around the door made and around windows, those are the weakest one section of the wall. So if you have some progress from the normal expansion and contraction, that’s where it’s going to show. Typically, what happens is you’ll have a painter or a handyman come out and they’ll spackle the crack and make-up it and it seems to go away for a while. But of course, as soon as the wall moves again, it shows up.
What you really have to do here is sand down the area around the crack.
TOM: And then you have to cover it with a perforated spackle tape. And that usually looks like netting and it’s a little sticky. You set it across the crack and then you spackle over the tape. And that does a permanent amend, because it actually sort of melds one surface of the wall with the other and it should not separate again the next time the wall moves.
BETTY: OK. Well, that wonderful performance. Thank you so much better. I regard your help.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Barry in North Carolina is on the line and looking for some help with a sunroom. Tell us what you’re working on.
BARRY: Well, we’ve got a 12 x15 sunroom and it’s precisely- it gets cold and it gets hot. It’s double-pane glass, isolated. And it’s about 2 cm thick for the bottom part. But it’s like all metal, all aluminum and it’s precisely cold and hot. And I really want to know- and it is ducted; there’s an air duct out there.
BARRY: And was something I can do to make it warmer in the winter and jug in the summer?
TOM: Well, what’s going on here, Barry, is you are not putting fairly cool breeze or warm breath in that opening to deal with the hot loss that’s going on. So, I presume now this- whatever it is you did is extended your HVAC system into this space? Is that how it’s ducted, when you say it’s ducted?
TOM: Alright. And this is typical. The HVAC system is not sized correctly for that area and for the heat loss in that area and for the hot increase in the summer. This is a perfect scenario, though, for you to add a kind of arrangement called a “mini-split ductless.” A mini-split ductless is basically three pieces: you have an indoor unit that hangs on the wall; you have an outdoor unit that’s a very small, very quiet, very efficient compressor; and you have copper tubing that connects the two.
And you would buy one that’s really big enough for this sunroom and what it would do is supplement the central hot or freezing breath that’s coming through the duct systems and balance it out. It can have its own thermostat and can supply warm air in the winter and cold breath in the summer and reach that chamber absolutely pleasant. There’s little else that you can do to insulate the structure. It’s just a very cold structure by its very nature, a sunroom. But a mini-split ductless is a good make to install to offset this out.
You might want to take a look at this website: ConstantComfort.com. That’s the website for the Fujitsu Company. I personally have a Fujitsu mini-split ductless in my place because the room, just like you say, it’s too hot in the summer, too cold in the winter. And it’s been the perfect addition to being able to my HVAC plan, because it certainly forms this space comfortable.
BARRY: I’ve seen those components mounted before but typically they’re prepared up high.
BARRY: Can they be attached down low-grade?
TOM: You know, I believe they can. But the higher the better, particularly for the cold breeze so it falls.
BARRY: But there’s only like 21/2 paws of solid fragment down below; the rest of everything all window.
TOM: Well, what about the wall against members of this house where the ducts come through?
BARRY: That’s a detail. I hadn’t thought about that.
TOM: Yeah, ascertain, it doesn’t have to be on the exterior wall.
TOM: It can- and in fact, you would want to have it on the interior wall- against the house, where the canals come through- and mounted up high-pitched. And you’ll be amazed at how comfortable that room will be.
That website, again, is ConstantComfort.com. You can check out the Fujitsus there. And they likewise have an energy-efficiency calculator so you can figure out pretty much how much vigour you save.
Problem is that we improve these spaces and we include them on to our room. We try to extend the heating and cooling systems …
LESLIE: And it simply introduces too much pressing on the system.
TOM: Yeah, it’s exactly not enough.
BARRY: OK. Very good. That refutes my question then.
TOM: Alright. Good fortune with that job. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Call us, right now, at 888 -6 66 -3 974. Now, you can call us any time of the day or the night. If you’re hearing the radio picture, if you’re hearing our podcast, 888 -MONEY-PIT is basically staffed, 24/7, with tribes that are there just to help you with your campaigns by taking that bellow, taking that question. And then we will try to call you back the next time we are on the breath. So, if you’ve got something that you need to get done, we’d love to help.
LESLIE: Dottie in Nebraska is on the line and needs some is contributing to a flooring campaign. What can we do for you today?
DOTTIE: I’m replacing- will be replacing a vinyl floor in the kitchen. And I’ve never had a wood floor. I cherish the examine of lumber but I’m confused as to whether to go with wood or with laminate, because I want easy care.
LESLIE: OK. And this is strictly for your kitchen or does it …?
DOTTIE: We will be going into the dining room, extremely, we’ve decided. We’ll be taking up carpet in there to extend into the dining room.
LESLIE: OK. So it’s- is it an open plan or is there a threshold or is there a divide between these two seats?
DOTTIE: There is a counter between the two.
LESLIE: OK. Now, for kitchens, hardwood floorings are beautiful but generally, even if they have a commercial-grade type of coating on them, they’re not really meant to stand up to the wear and tear and perhaps the sweat that could become involved in a kitchen environment. I reckon a laminate is probably a better choice for you, precisely because of the practice they are made. And the finishes on top of them represent them more easy to clean-living, easier resolved with any spills that might occur and certainly more sturdy and of course, can look like anything.
I actually really positioned a laminate, in a home I redid in California, that was a 6-inch-wide board that had a hand-scraped finish on it. So it certainly had that warmth and gaze and a quality of a traditional hardwood that you’re probably looking for. And depending on the quality of laminate, you could get kind of close to a hardwood price but I think you can still keep it in your expenditure range.
LESLIE: But you can find, certainly, beautiful options in the laminate. I think that’s probably the course you want to go for a kitchen.
DOTTIE: OK. And see if you agree with this: I’ve been told that we have oak lockers that are OK and not to try to match those. Is that right to go lighter or darker?
LESLIE: Absolutely. What complexion is the oak? Is it kind of natural? Has it been stained a different hue?
DOTTIE: It’s somewhat typical, heated oak: kind of a gilded- kind of a medium brown.
LESLIE: I like the relevant recommendations of a darker floor in a kitchen. I feel like it’s more forgiving. I feel like it draws cabinet ministers sort of jump off and create a more put-together look for a kitchen space. I reckon with a lighter storey, you’re ever going to be trying to clean-living it and care for it, cover it up.
DOTTIE: OK. And as far- I have a friend who given- I imagine she said hers is cherry-red but I cherish the inspection. It’s kind of a- the planks are a different shadow; they’re not all the same color. Is that something you think that I could find or would that look nice with the oak?
LESLIE: Now when you say different shades, is it strikingly different? Does it glance sort of patchwork-y or is it more tonal?
DOTTIE: No. No. More subtle than that.
LESLIE: More subtle. I represent I think it could be a very good look if you’ve got the right look for your kitchen. That tends to be a more- not a hippie-dippie but Bohemian, free-spirited sort of eclectic look that’s very popular right now. So if you’ve came that seek to move in your lighting fixtures and in your tile creation and in your countertops, then it could really confine it all in together.
DOTTIE: OK. And one last-place question. That flooring that I like is laid on the diagonal. Do you do that much and do you are proposing that?
LESLIE: Depends on the dimensions of the the seat. Because if it’s a tighter or a restricted kitchen, it could look very busy. But if you’ve got a good expanse and the kitchen is fairly wide, then it could play very nicely.
DOTTIE: Well, that’s wonderful. That’s what I wanted to know. I contemplated probably the laminate was better. I want it to look beautiful; I don’t want it to look fake.
TOM: I’ll tell you, Dottie, I have laminate in my kitchen and I’ve had it for about 10 years now.
TOM: It looks like a stone storey and it’s beautiful.
DOTTIE: Wonderful. OK. And no particular brand tips-off or anything like that? Maybe you can’t do that. I’m genuinely a rookie here.
TOM: Well, I’ll tell you, you might just want to- a good arrange exactly to kind of shop for it is LumberLiquidators.com, exclusively because they have good prices and they have a whole bunch of producers there on their website.
TOM: So that might be a good home to start.
DOTTIE: OK. I will do it. Thank you so much.
TOM: Alright, Dottie. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, whether you’re creating a kid’s room for a new arrival or you’re updating a room for girls who simply are insisting they’re not little anymore- I had one of those. It was a very dramatic request. It involved a lot of tears and irritation but she decided it was time. And I said, “Hey , no problem.” And we made-over the room.
But listen , no matter what state your adolescents are in- whether they’re ready for a brand-new area or they’re exactly recruiting this beautiful life- starting over that chamber is a great opportunity for you to really throw in some of the personality that you and your children share. So we’re going to have some tips-off to help form that job a success.
LESLIE: Yeah. Now, the first trick really is to go into this project knowing the parameters of what you can spend, the smart-aleckies of cloth assortment and how to compile that room safe, health and resilient as your junior decorator starts to grow.
Now, believe it or not, it’s possible to combine coolness and practicality, safety and organization. All of these things will make a office that both you and your adolescent are going to love.
Now, next up, you’ve got to think through how many teenagers are using this space now and how many will be in the near future. Maybe it’s the next two to five years, something like that. What are those kids’ ages? What age landmarks are they going to be hitting in the next few years while they’re in this space? So speculate maybe babe to preschooler or grade-schooler to tween, tween to teen, all of that. Because you want to sort of realise that infinite, you know, work for both of those age scopes so that you’re not reducing the amount of time that they can actually enjoy the space.
TOM: Yeah. And I believe part of that infinite meaning is really thinking through the specific activities that are going to happen there. Sleeping and homework are the two obvious, although disliked essentials, I “re just saying”. At least they were in my house. Playing, arts and planes, sporting-goods storage, those sorts of things all have to be considered, as well as what you feel pleasant allowing in the kids’ zone versus the family zone. So you need to think through these minds with your teenagers and maybe even include them in the decisions. That can help make sure the apartment working well for the entire family.
For more tips, check out our pole, “Create a Kid’s Room That Will Grow with Your Child.” That’s on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Leroy on the line who’s got a painting question. How can we help you today?
LEROY: Yes, I had some spray expense on my ceiling. It has left a stain on the ceiling in the bedroom. I was wondering, what can I do to repair that? I coat over it and it still comes through.
TOM: Yeah, if you don’t prime it firstly, Leroy, it will come through. So the key is that you have to prime the discolour smudges. Because the chemical reaction that occurs in the discoloured area absolutely has a way of plucking right through the topcoat of dye. So if you prime it and then paint over it, you’ll be OK.
Now, I will say this: if you spot-prime it and then flat-paint over it, you may look a slightly different sheen, even though it’s a flat gleam, because the absorption rate is going to be different on the primary versus the non-primed spot. If you really want to do it right, you would prime the part ceiling and then repaint the entire ceiling and then it would be totally invisible. But if you don’t prime it, you will see the stains pull through.
LEROY: Great. Hey, thank you.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, when springtime was coming, a combination of snow defrosted and rain can spell trouble for your cellar and landscaping. And that ocean can no doubt induce a great deal of damage if it croaks where it shouldn’t.
TOM: Yep. Yard drainage is the topic that most kinfolks exclusively deal with when it starts a great problem, like a submerge. But it can definitely impact landscaping and too meet the ground just hard to use.
LESLIE: Yeah. So, here’s where you have to start, certainly. First of all, your number-one defense against sea is cleaning out your gutters. Now, those ditches truly do a magnificent task of coming the irrigate away from the foundation. So, even though they are your property is evaluated accurately, sea moving right against that roofline of the house can and will find its path into the cellar. If it’s possible to, it get the craziest street and pussyfeet along things and finds its action. I promise you that substance can happen.
So, you’ve got to make sure that you either have a gutter extension or a sprinkle block at the locate of each gutter. This way, when the spray “re coming out”, it’s sent away from that foundation.
TOM: Now, formerly you’ve clothed your basis in terms of the gutter runoff, it’s time to take a look at the grading. The tier around your ground should ascent away from members of this house , not towards it. The 10 feet of soil that’s closest to the house should really drop by at least about 6 inches in order to maintain that water away from the foundation. That pooling spray can definitely suffocate floras and deprive their beginnings of oxygen. So you have to likewise make sure that your garden-varieties are draining properly.
LESLIE: Now, that’s going to handle any water that ponds around the foundation. But if your ground does get mushy, you are able to need another solution and that’s something called a “curtain drain.” And I envisage parties get confused about what the functionality of a curtain drainage is.
TOM: Yeah, they have a lot of different specifies: shroud exhaustions and French drains and such. But basically, it’s a cut with a piping in it that you can’t see.
So, a drapery pump basically is installed at the lowest part of the ground, where the sea reserves. And the behavior it’s positioned is a trench is dig. It’s frequently about 12 inches wide and about 12 inches deep. Commonly, you put 2 or 3 inches of stone in it and then a perforated piping. And then “youre running” that piping sort of all the way around the house or whichever tack you have to go to get to the low-grade degree. Because water is going to collect at that low-toned moment, open the tube and then discharge out the other end.
So, it’s a lot of work to do it but it does really do a good job of drying out yards that are soggy. And they’re not soggy right up against the house; they’re soggy kind of in the middle of the garden. And this mode, you can use that space.
LESLIE: I intend is that really what a cool well is? A cavity for that irrigate to be done in order to?
TOM: Yeah, it is. And so, that’s a good question. So, sometimes, kinfolks that are trying to keep- they don’t have a place to exhaust the ocean. They’ll basically dig a loophole about the dimensions of the a 55 -gallon barrel, sincerely. And that comes filled with stone and then the discharge pipe- if it’s from your sump pump or from a downspout or an underground pump- will go into that dry well. And what that does is sort of collects the ocean and then lets it permeate more gradually back into the soil beneath, as opposed to time ponding on top.
Think about it. Water that- it’s in a puddle; it’s always going to drain eventually. But if you drop it into the dry well, then it precisely does that draining, mostly, below grade.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Lorraine in Arizona who needs some help with a panel decorating project.
LORRAINE: We have an older home that has two walls that has paneling on. And I was told that if we made the paneling off, it would probably shatter the drywall. So I was considering maybe trying to applied something over top of the paneling to give it a different ogle and missed some suggestions.
LESLIE: Well, it depends. It depended on how it’s attached to whatever is behind it. There may not be any drywall behind it; it might just be the paneling attached immediately to the studs, in which case you would have to framed drywall up. It could be that the paneling was glued to the drywall. Then you are able to never get onto off without completely destroying the drywall. Or it could be that it was just hammered on. You’re not really going to know until you sort of peer at a reces or an area where you can take off a little bit of trim effort and interpret what exactly is going on before you make a decision. So that’s probably best step number one.
Now, if you find out that there’s genuinely no removing it and your choices are to deal with the paneling and make it look better or cover over it with 1/4 -inch drywall, you can do that. It depended on how much work you want to do.
Painting paneling certainly is an excellent option. It makes a totally different look when you depict paneling a crispy, glossy lily-white or an off-white or something that really only represents a good, neutral backdrop and just sort of go with it.
LORRAINE: OK. This is very light panel anyway.
LESLIE: And are you at a spot whatever it is you exactly want to see it be darker, different or run?
LESLIE: Painting it truly does look nice. It doesn’t have to be something that, in the end, you’re going to think, “Ooh, that doesn’t look good.” You just have to make sure that you cleansed it, you primary it well and then you give it a good topcoat.
Now, I “wouldve been” begin by only taking off a piece of trimming and doorway formulated and examining how it’s appended. And if you want to truly start with merely a fresh look, you are able to absolutely cover over the entire seat with 1/4 -inch drywall without losing too much space. You’re just going to have to sort of bump-out your electrical cartons, your substitutions, your edging drive, et cetera which, for a handy person, isn’t that big of a cope. So it could be a project you could do on your own. Or to hire soul wouldn’t be situations where expensive.
LORRAINE: OK. Sounds good.
LESLIE: Alright. Good fortune with that.
TOM: Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Robert in Oregon is on the line and is having an issue with some plaster walls at his home. How can we help you?
ROBERT: Well, I was finishing a chamber in my bedroom and after devoting the plaster, some of the plaster was coming off after I painted it. But initially, I did the living room, which was my first profession, and I desegregated it- a cluster of the plaster- Imperial plaster. And of course, I mingled too much and it came hard-boiled, you are well aware? So I learned not to mix so much, because it merely – you can only use so much better during a certain time before it rectifies up.
So, regardless, in the next chamber, I drywalled it, finished it and then I exercised a produce announced Plaster-Weld, which is supposed to be a primer for the plaster.
TOM: Right. Plaster-Weld is a bonding agent.
TOM: And you used this on top of drywall? Is that remedy?
TOM: Was it brand-new drywall?
ROBERT: Yeah, new drywall.
ROBERT: But I’d primed the walls first and then employed the Plaster-Weld over that.
TOM: OK. Hmm. OK.
ROBERT: And then mixed up my plaster- it was Imperial plaster- and applied it and finished it all up and troweled it to the texture I craved. And then we went back- my wife and I- and stroked up a few distinguishes and then give it cool overnight. Then we articulated a primer on it and while putting the primer on it, some of the plaster was coming off.
TOM: First of all, I would not have primary the drywall. I don’t certainly view a reason to do that. You prime the drywall to control adhesion and to stop the absorption, I “re saying”, of the brand-new draw- the top coating of coat- and to get an even sheen. But you weren’t really concerned about sheen because you intended to do a plaster coat.
You were mostly improving what’s called “plaster lath.” This is the way homes were done in the 50 s, where you have a drywall base and then you articulated a plaster coat on top of that. The bonding operator was the right thing to do but that should have gone immediately onto the drywall. Now you set the drywall on, then you made a primer over that and then you kept the bonding agent on top of that. So now you have to get the bonding agent to stick to the primer and that’s a little more difficult than get it to stick to the raw drywall.
So I think you’ve got a situation now where you’re going to have this difficulty potentially repeating itself. So I dislike to tell you this but what I might do is articulate another bed of drywall over this- a real thin layer- and start again. You don’t have to use 1/2 -inch; you can use 1/4 -inch time to skim it. And then articulated the plaster over that.
ROBERT: Alright. Thanks.
TOM: You’re welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you have a basement or maybe a split-level where the lower floor is below gradation, it might feel like you’re always duelling a mute seat. And one of the reasons it feels that way is that the concrete is always releasing sweat. But when it comes to your storey, there’s an inventive, brand-new commodity that can help shape that room warm and comfortable.
TOM: Yeah. It’s called DRICORE and it’s mostly an engineered-subfloor solution. It comes as a 2-foot by 2-foot square tile. And it goes down first before the finished storey. And in doing so, it creates a fostered humidity railing. And it includes that freezing, dampen specific and also protects and segregates and sort of cushions your finished floors.
The DRICORE subfloor boards have an air gap technology which protects against moisture. And that can help prevent mold and mildew. And they also insulate against the cold concrete and that’s why the floors are going to feel warmer and softer even to walk on.
LESLIE: Yeah, that’s right. That’s definitely what those DRICORE panels are doing. And as a bonus, they’re easy to install and you can leave them as is or you are able to put another type of flooring over them, like maybe an engineered hardwood, a laminate, even a vinyl board. There’s so many flooring selections and you can install almost any of them over the DRICORE.
TOM: Yeah. And it’s not expensive. It passes about $1.56 a square paw and it’s available at Home Depot, Lowe’s and Menards. If you’re going to do a vault flooring, you’ve got to put down DRICORE firstly. Check it out at DRICORE.com- D-R-I-C-O-R-E.com.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve went James on the line. What can we help you with today?
JAMES: Spent a little bit more money this time and I exploited a Western redcedar for my barrier. And I was just wondering if you recommend I framed some kind of stain on that or is letting it run its normal color.
TOM: Well, its normal color is not going to be red; it’s going to be dark gray to black.
LESLIE: It’s like silvery grey-haired, even.
TOM: Even though it’s cedar and naturally insect-resistant, it’s not going to keep that cedar pigment. The color will fade pretty quickly. So if you want to keep the color, you do have to stain it and I would use a solid-color stain on top of that.
TOM: Solid-color exterior stain. And make sure you get the edges of the human rights committee. Otherwise, it will rot, especially from the bottom on up.
LESLIE: And with cedar, a good deal of creators recommend leaving it unfinished for 6 to 12 months but that’s not true with cedar. Cedar you should finish right away; this action, it stays really nice.
JAMES: OK. Should I get a product with a seal in it or a sealer in it or just the colouring?
TOM: Exterior stains have sealers built into them, James.
TOM: So, that’s going to protect it. Just an exterior siding stain.
JAMES: Great. Well, I appreciate it.
TOM: You can honcho to MoneyPit.com and upright your residence progress question. That’s what Jack did. Jack is in California.
LESLIE: That’s right. Jack writes: “We have a house at our belonging that is 105 years old. No one’s living there right now but we still have the electricity and plumbing turned on. What would be the best way to situate this house in a unoccupied or storage mode to minimize the damage while it sits empty-bellied? ”
TOM: Very good question, Jack. And a good deal of tribes think that you can pretty much moth-ball a home in its entirety. But if you do that- if you turn everything off, especially if you turn the heat off perfectly – you’re going to find that the home will do some very weird things. The walls will get damp, they can grow mold. Wallpaper can fall off. Carpets can, you are well aware, get mold in their own homes. You can actually get more allergens that will form. The doors can swell, the walls will crack. So you never want to do that.
What you want to do is this. First of all, yes, of course, turn off the water, drain all of the hoses. If you have water that remains in the toilet containers or in the catches, you can just take some antifreeze- time regular automobile antifreeze is fine- and pour a little bit in every orientation. And this nature, that irrigate will never freeze and divulge the fixture.
You, of course, want to make sure that the home is completely secure. But most importantly, determined the heat at a rational temperature like, perhaps, around 60 positions. I would not let it go much colder than that. Because if you do, all that peculiar substance is going to happen.
And ultimately, be borne in mind that you don’t want it to look totally vacant, because you could get some crime, some breaking-and-entering into that home. So invest in one of the many types of smart shops or smart igniting permutations that have random decorations now where beacons can come on and off. And it forms it appear like, perhaps, there’s a little bit of activity in their house.
But follow those steps and I think you will be good to go.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a upright here from Jessica in New Jersey who writes: “I’m restoring the wood floors throughout my house and most of the floor looks great. But one gigantic blot, in particular, seems to go fairly deep so I precisely can’t sand it out. Is there something I can consider this wood with? Or maybe a dark stain will procreate that grime less noticeable.”
TOM: Well, let’s construe. I intend I’m not quite sure how you know that it’s that penetrating. If you were to sand it out, you may have to sand significantly but it would probably get to the bottom of the stain at some extent. Then you’d have to refinish, probably, the whole floor.
The idea of restaining on top of that or maybe trying to darken the areas around it, a little risky because it’s never going to take precisely as you expect it. So I think if it was my house and I genuinely had neat hardwood floorings, I would not want to clear them all dark, because I think that’s going to take away from it. I would probably have them all resanded.
Now, you can hire out at least this part of the job to a professional refinishing company and have them at least do the sanding if you want to do the finish yourself. The sanding is key, though, because it involves some very specialized equipment that although you can fee, I don’t recommend it. Because it’s the kind of thing that you need to have some skill and some practice and some experience with. Otherwise, you have been able perfectly, wholly break those floors.
LESLIE: They certainly have a mind of their own if you can’t control them. Those sanders can go.
TOM: Yeah. They’re basically 12 -inch belt sanders with really big motors. And if you don’t contain it just right, it can really make you for a move. And if you just- if you cough or sneeze and you change the thing a little bit, it’ll dig right into that flooring and you will never get that little ding out.
So , not a DIY project sanding a storey. But I’ll tell you what, if that doesn’t work and you’re not ready for all that, there’s ever the area carpet. Only cover it up.
LESLIE: It’s a good tip.
TOM: You’ve been listening to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show and we are so glad that you took a small part of your daytime to do time that. We hope we’ve been able to give you some great theories, some tips, some inspiration to perhaps- to avoid some perspiration when it comes time to take on your next home better, remodel or decor project.
Once again, you can reach us at 888 -MONEY-PIT any time of the day or nighttime. We will take your information and call you back the next time we are in the studio.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
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