In this escapade …
Adding a backyard deck is one sure-fire way to increase your home’s living space but is building a floor a DIY project? Tom& Leslie share some guidelines. Plus…
Do you have really long area in your residence that’s about as petitioning to embellish as a bowling alley? Learn a few painting tricks and furniture nips for the layout, that will leave you with a chamber that feels cozy and comfortable.Do your electrical circuit breakers of fuses trip more than they should? If so, it may be your electrical service panel isn’t up to snuff. We accompany you through five mansions that register when it’s is necessary to UPGRADE your service panel for your safety- and your normality!
Plus, their responses to your dwelling increase questions about, installing a trench drain , eliminating sink odors, stopping squeaky lumber floorings, repairing bowing basement walls, cleansing rusty tub discolours, clean gratuities for grove paneling, installing an installing a programmable thermostat .
Do you have a home improvement or decoration question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Happy Pre-Spring. That’s the new season that we devised, because we can’t wait to get to the warmer weather. And so many folks are thinking about development projects they want to take on when it gets warmer out. We decided why wait? We’ve organized a brand-new season called “pre-spring.” So if you’ve got a pre-spring question about a project, you’re in the best place. Call us now with that question at 888 -MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974 or affix it to our website at MoneyPit.com.
On today’s episode, including a backyard floor is one surefire route to growth your home’s living space. But is building a deck a DIY project? We’re going to share some guidelines to help you figure it out.
LESLIE: And too ahead, do you have a really long room in your home that’s about as plea to embellish as a bowling alley? Well, we’re going to share a few deceptions and nips for the scheme that will leave you with a chamber that feels cozy and comfortable.
TOM: And if your electrical service panel isn’t up to snuff, you could get a shock of a different kind. We’re going to have the five ratifies that depict it’s time to upgrade that panel.
LESLIE: But first, we want to know what you want to know in this pre-spring season.
That’s right. I’m just going to make it official with you, Tom.
TOM: Alright. Let’s go for it.
LESLIE: Pre-spring. Get out there. What are you working on? Let us help you get that house in tip-top shape so you can really time enjoy yourself.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Dot, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
DOT: A couple of years ago, we had a driveway put in. We have a house with an appended garage. And they had, oh, pointed the driveway, they said, properly so the water would drain away from the house and into the lawn. And we get standing ocean in our driveway still. And I was just wondering the steps to- the suitable steps to gave a gutter in our driveway and perhaps a drain.
TOM: OK. So, it would seem to me that if – you’re speaking about liquid that’s collecting on the driveway itself or on the two sides of the driveway? There’s a distinction.
DOT: In the driveway and also close to the house and where the driveway congregates. And then there’s an attached garage there, also.
TOM: If we were to stop the water from compiling on the side of the driveway, would the top of the driveway still be filled?
DOT: I think so. Apparently, they pointed it …
TOM: Alright. Because it’s easier to put in a drapery exhaust along the side of the driveway than it is to slice the driveway and set a drainage. Because if you want to try to drain what’s on the driveway, virtually you have to cut a slice into the driveway. It’s not something that they are able to do; it requires specialized tools. And then a exhaust is put and it’s kind of like a very narrow grate, almost like a box, that’s dropped into the driveway. The driveway is evaluated to the top of it so that the water can sort of roll in and then fill up the deplete and then run out.
If, in fact, that this water is obtaining along the side of the driveway, it would be easier, various kinds of from a do-it-yourself perspective, to add in a pall pump. The direction that works is you would dig a gutter that was maybe a foot wide, maybe a foot late. You’d threw some stone in the bottom of that and then you’d gave a perforated PVC pipe. You continue to fill that up with stone all around it. You’d computed some filter cloth over that and then you would regrade and you would be- it would be completely invisible when it’s done. And of course, it has to be pitched properly and discharged properly, as well.
So, the screen drain on the side of the driveway is easier than sort of the pit drain where you have to cut the driveway. I would tend to say do the screen drain first and see how it goes.
Dot, I hope that helps you out. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Wayne in Iowa is on the line with a septic matter. Tell us what’s going on.
WAYNE: Well, when I take a bath, I have odor when I drain the bathtub. If I take a shower, I have no odor when I make- when I take a shower, undoubtedly, I don’t plug the drainage. But everything lopes through down to one hose, which goes out to a septic tank. I do know the line is good from the house to the septic tank, because I had to dig that up before I ever did any of the plumbing in the house. I did not replumb the drain on the tub but otherwise, members of this house has new plumbing throughout.
TOM: So we don’t think that it’s in the drain line. For example, when you talk about sewer odors, the first thing you think of is a missing trap. But if the plumbing has been remade, it’s not likely that that’s the speciman, remedy?
WAYNE: No, it has a trap. And it doesn’t leak into the basement but I- whenever I take a shower, it toils penalty. But if I take a tub bath and pull the plug on the ditch, I get a sewer odor in the hallway outside the bathroom.
TOM: Because the other cause of those odors is something called “biogas”- is when you get a lot of bacteria that can form in a pump. And it may not even be the depletion of the bathtub; it could be the duct of the capsize. I presume there’s a sink in that same bathroom. And sometimes, even in the overflow direct of the drop, you get this bacterial buildup that can have just an frightening odor to it.
And the answer there is to completely clean it with an oxygenated bleach so that you killed last bacteria, evening out the overflow channel, scouring the drain with almost like a bottle touch to make sure that all of that bacteria is eliminated.
Biogas can be very pungent and horrid been like living with but relatively simple to get rid of formerly you get to the spot where it exists. Will you contribute that a shot?
WAYNE: Yes, sir. I most certainly shall.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for announcing The Money Pit.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Charlene in Tennessee with a flooring question. What can we do for you?
CHARLENE: Well, we improved our house in 2006 and we bought, from the mill, solid-oak hardwood planks that we were going to put down for flooring. And it’s 6 inches wide, tongue-and-groove.
Underneath that, we put- my husband thinks it’s announced AdvanTech. It was a 50 -year warranty and the mill told us between that and the tongue-and-groove solid oak to settle 6 mil of plastic.
TOM: Alright. So what’s the problem we’re trying to solve now?
CHARLENE: The difficulty that we’re solving is in a few localities, one which is mainly the bathroom and the other is the kitchen, there’s a squeaking racket. It’s like you can’t sneak in that area. It’ll conclude that noise.
TOM: So when you go on a diet, your spouse can “know what youre talking about” when you try to sneak into the kitchen to get to the refrigerator, huh?
CHARLENE: Yeah, something like that.
TOM: Alright. So, gaze, this has little to do with what is underneath the flooring and more to do with just sort of regular wear and tear and stretch and reduction. The conclude those storeys are- those timbers are yelping is because they’re moving. And so, what is required to do is to tighten them up.
Now, since it’s a finished floor, you can’t just go willy-nilly throwing nails and fuckings into it; you’ve got to be a little more strategic. So whatever it is you want to do is find the place where there’s a storey joist underneath. And you can do that with a ornament finder.
And formerly you determine that recognize, you drill tiny pits through the floor and you use what’s called a “trim bolt, ” which is only a little bit bigger than a finish tack. You bolt through the finished floor, into the floor joist, and that will pull that storey down and make it tighter and abbreviate the amount of movement that it’s capable of. And that’s what’s going to quiet down your squeal. A little harder to do when it’s a finished floor but that’s the best way of do it.
CHARLENE: OK. It sounds like it might be an easy fix.
TOM: Good fortune with that programme. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve came Gary in Maryland with some wall rifts. Tell us what’s going on.
GARY: The crackings are along the one outside wall- or the one wall on the short line-up, on a 26 -foot back. And they’re both on either side of the lavatory, which is between two bedrooms.
TOM: So what you’re describing is a pretty normal scenario. We commonly get push in walls of homes and where you have seams between walls and ceilings, one wall and another wall or above a space or above a opening. That’s where the free movement of persons tend to manifestation itself.
Now, the mixture here is going to require that you redo the seam between the cracked spheres. What you’ll do is you’ll pull off the old-time drywall strip, if it’s loose. If it’s not liberate, you could probably leave it in place. But if it’s loose or if it’s wrinkled or anything like that, I would pluck it out. And I would replace that with fiberglass drywall tape.
Fiberglass drywall tape kind of looks like a net and it’s sticky, it’s easier to handle. And so you press it into the seam. And then once it’s pressed in place, then you’re going to add three mantles of spackle on top of that, originating each one as thin as is practicable. So you start with the first one, try to keep it reasonably narrow-minded and precisely cover the strip. And then the precede two, you go a little wider and a little wider and try to feather out the edges. And that actually will bridge that gap between the two surfaces and the crack will not form again.
If you try to spackle over a sound without doing that, it’s just going to show up. I mean you could spackle it and decorate it but it’s going to come out every wintertime or each summer, depending on whether it’s swelling or withering that’s stimulating the crack. It’s going to pop open again.
GARY: Good. Thank you very much. Good show, too.
TOM: You’re welcome, Gary. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, supplementing a backyard deck is one surefire acces to advance your home’s living space, at least for considerably more than half of the year. Depending on what areas of the country that you call home, it can be an integral part of summer, barbecues, get-togethers , not to mention a really great spot for really chilling out in a lounge chair or a hammock, experiencing those warm gust, perhaps sipping on an iced tea or a freezing beer and listening to the birds.
That said, guys, supplementing or perhaps even superseding a backyard floor necessary some strategy and certainly some skill to pull off, that are actually prays the question: should I do this myself or should I hire individual? So, we’re going to talk about the pros and cons of each.
TOM: Well, if you do the job yourself, you stand to save precisely by virtue of the labor overheads. However, construct a backyard floor could eat up a number of weekends, depending on how quickly you work and how many mistakes you make along the way.
Also, the DIY option could be perfect if you’re planning on a fairly simple square or rectangle. But things get dicey if you choose a more complicated, multilevel deck design.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, let’s think about it. Hiring that pro undoubtedly is going to result in a pricier floor since you’re paying for that proletariat. But on the plus line-up, a professional contractor- at least one who’s reliable- is likely to finish that job faster than you would. And a pro is also going to take care of the permitting process and will once know what’s up to code, what isn’t. And that’s going to really ensure that your new deck is going to be -AOK with your city examiner and of course, for your family.
TOM: Yeah, I’m really glad you mentioned lets, because a lot of people don’t adoration the idea of having to shell out extra money and make the time to obtain a permit. But it is really important, because those professional examiners are your eyes. They’re going to make sure the deck, as you say, is safe and all well and good. You do not want to build a deck merely to find out that there’s some critical flaw in it or maybe that you weren’t even allowed to build one, or you improved it too high or too low or more this or more that and “re going to have to” rend the whole thing down.
If you want to do it right, get a permit, get an inspection. And then you’ll know you’ll have a very safe, secure and valuable gap that you’ve simply are in addition to your home.
LESLIE: Alright. Now I’ve came Trish in New Jersey on the line who’s got a remodeling question. What are you working on?
TRISH: I have a wall that croaks between the kitchen and there’s a regulate of steps that go down to the basement.
TRISH: My question is- that it’s also a carrying wall. Is it worth it for me to go through the overhead of making this wall out? And then what do I do about the- when you take the wall out, it’s going to drop down to the basement steps right there.
TOM: Right. So, OK, it’s a big project, Trish. Really large-scale activity. Because when you take a wall out like that, you have to reinforce all the structure above it firstly. And you improved the buttres, then you take the wall out. You reassemble it with different types of structural members- like laminated rafters, for example- that move that span and allow you to have that sort of open space.
Now, you invoke another good question, like, “OK, what happens to the basement stair? ” Well, apparently, you’re going to need a fence there. So, it’s a really big project. I don’t know if that’s going to be worth it for you in terms of what you’re going to get out of this. What are you trying to achieve, from a motif attitude?
TRISH: To have an open concept. But here’s another idea. There’s another wall that goes between the kitchen and the dining room and that’s merely a small wall, because there’s a doorway there.
LESLIE: Trish, there are some other styles that you can actually shape the rooms feel larger. Considering I don’t know the exact floor plan or the situation of the cavity- but if you’ve got some windows in, say, your dining room, on the wall opposite it, why not kept a really large mirror over, perhaps, a service area or some sort of enormous storage closet? Because the mirror will sort of cure eject the illumination around and open up the opening and make it feel bigger. Expending paint-color jokes, where you somewhat reform one wall hue to a lighter colour in the same family, can stimulate the infinite feel larger, as well.
Mirrors truly are a huge help. I’m not talking about mirroring an entire wall but I speaks about- perhaps some strategically arranged, actually decorative reflects will do the trick, as well.
These are all roads- furniture layout. If you can sort of keep the flow more open to encourage a good pass-through, that can help conclude the room feel bigger, as well. So the authorities have access without taking on major construction projects.
TOM: That’ll make it watch so much bigger.
Trish, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Carl in Arkansas is on the line with a thermostat question. How can we help you?
CARL: I bought an older house and it’s- the thermostat that’s in it is currently for the heating and air conditioner is an aged mercury switching. And what I bought is a Honeywell 5-2 switching, a programmer for 5 weekdays and then 2 weekend eras. And what I’m wanting to know is, can I- is that something I can change out myself or is that something I need to hire an electrician to come do? The carton says easy to install but I’ve seemed it over and it doesn’t look like it’s that easy to me.
TOM: Well, look, if you’re unpleasant with it, I would not hire an electrician. Kind of hot do you have? Is it gas? Oil? What is it?
CARL: It’s electric.
TOM: Oh, it’s electrical hot. What kind of furnace do “youve had”?
TOM: Is this a heat pump?
CARL: No , no , no. It’s not a hot gush. That’s one thing I didn’t requirement was a hot pump.
TOM: It’s a straight electrical furnace?
CARL: Right. Straight electrical furnace and it has only one outside measurement, which is also a Trane.
TOM: Uh-oh. Wait a hour. Listen to me. If you’re telling me you have an outside abbreviating component that works with this, you’ve got a heat pump. You’ve got the compressor outside and then the furnace inside.
Now, a heat pump is an association hot run/ electrical furnace. That’s the method they’re designed to work. And the reason that that’s important is because the thermostat that you chose- and I don’t know that this is the case or not but it has to be rated for a heat pump.
Because the way heat runs work is when you defined your heat- let’s say you positioned your heat at 68 severities. It starts getting cold outside, right? Then inside the house, it precipitates to 67, the heat gush comes on. Still cold, descends to 66, heat gush stays on. Still cold, descents to 65 , now it’s at more than 2-degrees split between what it was set at and what it is. The hot run says, “I can’t keep up with this. I’m going to bring on my friend, the electric furnace.” So now the electric-furnace coils kick on and then bring the house up to temperature.
But by you not having the freedom thermostat, what can happen is you can run more of the electrical furnace and lower levels of the hot shoot, which will significantly increase your electrical statute. So, the thermostat you choose has got to be designed for a hot pump.
So I would say your first thing to do is to confirm- I don’t know if you have an HVAC contractor that you work with but get that method serviced. All these compressors “ve got to be” serviced once a year. If you haven’t done it, get it serviced, get the refrigerant checked out. While that person is in the house, have him install a heat pump-rated thermostat. Because you’re patently unpleasant with it and we don’t want you to have all those wires apart and simply have a problem where you’ve got no heat or no air.
So I wouldn’t do it myself, because you’re unpleasant with it. And when in doubt, don’t do it. But make sure you use the right thermostat. Otherwise, you are able drive up those costs accidentally. OK?
CARL: OK. Well, I appreciate it.
TOM: Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
You know, even if you can do it yourself, it doesn’t consequently mean that you should do it yourself. And just like Carl said, if he speak the instructions and it still seems confusing to him, then don’t do it. If you’re not cozy with it- and specially if it’s something like your furnace where if you hook up the wires bad – you’re probably not going to break it but you’re not going to have heat and that could be very unpleasant.
LESLIE: Now we’re title over to Virginia where Margaret has a question about a bathtub. Tell us what’s going on.
MARGARET: We have an aged, cast-iron tub and it’s real rust-brown in recognizes. And I’m wondering what we could do to restore it.
LESLIE: Now, when you say real rust-brown in places, are we talking about big spots or are we talking about tiny, little ones from a chip here and there?
MARGARET: No. We’re talking about big-hearted smudges because the water- it was not good water when we first moved in. And so it had a lot of wear and tear on it about 40 times before we moved here. And we’ve been living here, probably, about 45 times, so …
TOM: So your bathtub is almost 100 years old, huh?
TOM: Yeah. Well, gaze, it served members of this house well. It’s not going to last-place forever. It is therefore necessary to reglazed at this part. And I’ve had some suffer with kinfolks that are endeavouring to reglaze these tubs inside the house. And it can be done but it’s an exceptionally tangled and intensive errand. And unless it’s done professionally, it doesn’t seem to last-place very long. There are home reglazing kits. Rust-Oleum acquires one that’s for bathtub and tile but I wouldn’t expect it to previous all that long.
The best mode to do this is to have the tub taken out and reglazed. But if you’re going to do all that, you might as well replace it and not just have that- not just not have that reglazed unless it’s especially beautiful. I repute those are your options. It’s not easy to do a touch-up to something like this when it’s just got so- it’s got almost 100 years of wear and tear on it.
MARGARET: Oh. Yes, yes. OK. That was my question. I appreciate that.
TOM: Unfortunately, Margaret, there’s no easy mode to remove 100 years of wear and tear on that tub and so you’re probably better off merely ousting it.
Well, if you have a really, genuinely long room in your dwelling that perhaps is as appealing to decorate as maybe a bowling alley, it could be really hard to oblige that cavity feel cozy and comfortable. But with a few cases layout gimmicks and tweaks, you can learn to love your long and narrow room.
LESLIE: Yeah. I contemplate, first of all, people get stuck because they feel like, “Ugh, it’s got to be one space. What is it? What do I doing in there? ”
But you have to think about long rooms as a bles in guise, because they can serve as a very popular open-plan kind of space. So instead of having one huge but really strange living room, you can have a smaller living area plus more of a cozy lair or a study or maybe a little breakfast nook. The trick here is to zone those areas into separate spots by using your furniture.
Now, carpets can sort of estate a smudge. You can create a igniting sphere around that one little discerned. All of it playing with color, so it feels like its own individual space. And that really helps to set the ambiance of “I projected it, I’ve made a lot of usable spots.”
TOM: Now, the next thing you want to think about is to not string things up, because you don’t want to accentuate the fact that it’s once long. So try to avoid having all your furniture along the walls, like you might see in a doctor’s waiting room.
Instead, you want to alternate the furniture formations. So this is going to force that traffic to take on kind of an S-shape and avoided half the room simply feeling like a straight hallway. It’s basically a stealthy lane to become you actually use more of the space.
And you also want to arrange things crosswise when possible. And that’s going to visually kind of push those walls outward. And that’s going to make that office seem wider, as opposed to being sort of narrow.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And I judge the other thing people want to do is they construe a big room, so they purchase large-hearted furniture. But instead of getting that one large-scale sofa and then getting – you know, put it there on the longer wall, think about getting two smaller ones and situate them facing one another, with a small coffee table in between or maybe even an L-shaped sofa or one with a small chaise lounge. And that can really use that seat in a long room awfully, very well.
TOM: And lastly, do not overfill this with furniture. Simply because the room is long doesn’t mean you need to fill it all. It manipulates particularly well in a symmetrical area when the furniture can be sort of centered around an objective, like a window or a fireplace.
So, if you follow some of those steps, this room can really become a very popular space. Everybody likes these open floor plans these days. Well, that’s exactly what that is. It’s an open floor plan where you set the groupings for the activities that are to follow.
LESLIE: John is on the line and he’s dealing with a mildew statu. Tell us what’s going on.
JOHN: I have a mold problem around my shower opening. I bought the house two years ago. I stripped all the caulking out when I had the mold problem. I’ve put caulking in with a nationally known brand. I even ill-used a Saran Wrap-type thing on my digit to eliminate any pollutant. Before I did that, I cleansed it, I stripped it out with a plastic scraper. I also employed mineral feelings to scavenge it out. I applied it in and I still have problems with it.
God, I’m exactly at my wits’ end here. I race the humidity in my vault between 40 and 50 percent. I leave the shower door open. I even shut the furnace show off in there to try and keep it so it doesn’t have a breeding of bacteria or anything or mold in that.
You’ve got to tell me what I need to do. I don’t know if I have an off-spec caulking that I exploited, which is nationally known, or if I have an off-spec aluminum enclose and doorway that causes the mold. I have no idea.
TOM: Well, seem, you’re going to get mold when you have moisture and organic material. And in a shower, that organic material can be soap and grime and that sort of thing. So you’re doing the right thing but let’s simply back it up and try it again here.
You want to remove the old-time caulk. You mentioned mineral flavours. I often recommend a bleach-and-water solution because this kills- this is a mildicide that kills anything that’s stuck behind. After you get that all dehydrated out and cleaned out certainly, really well, then you can apply a caulk with mildicide. I would use a caulk that has Microban in it. DAP caulks are available with Microban and it’s a good antimicrobial additive that will not thrive mold.
Now, the second thing I would do is I would also make sure that you have- certainly, have a bath exhaust fan and that you have an exhaust fan that’s hooked up to a humidistat, which makes sort of you and anyone else that’s apply that bathroom out of the equation. If it’s on the humidistat, it’s automatically going to kick on when the humidity comes high enough to cause mold problems. And it will stay on for some number of minutes when that humidity goes down, to make sure that the apartment is thoroughly vented out.
That’s the best way to handle that. And I think if you do those steps, you will find success.
JOHN: Hey, thank you very much.
TOM: Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, your home’s electrical board is made up of circuits that afford electricity to your home. Now, “youre supposed to” never really thought about it until that circuit jaunts and then you have to.
TOM: Yeah. But if you find that happening more frequently, it could be a sign that you need to upgrade your electrical service panel. So we’ve got five signals that service panel is ready to be replaced, in today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com.
First off, let’s talk about faulty wire. It’s the leading cause of residential ardors in the U.S. And those signeds would include dimming or shimmering of ignites, sometimes a modest stupor perception when touching an device or a lingering burning stench and of course, any sparking or discoloring of the capability outlets.
But what about fuses? Because a lot of kinfolks don’t have circuit breakers; they still have fuses. The thing is they pretty much function the same. They do prevent short circuits and tour overloads. The circuit breaker interrupts the route. A fuse can actually softened and become a possible shell hazard.
But they’re not illegal. They are outdated. They’re actually pretty accurate at blowing when they’re supposed to but the problem is you have to know what width to replace it with. So, sometimes you find that kinfolks will frame the bad width fuse back in. And that be interpreted to mean that the cable is not well protected. So if you’ve came fuses, I think that’s a definite sign it’s time to upgrade your panel.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. I thoughts another good signed that maybe you don’t have enough service to your dwelling is that you’re working propagation lines and you’re using power rows all over the house, because you don’t simply have enough channels. I mean that’s actually when it’s a good theme to upgrade. You know, you can install multiple electrical outlet and a route where they’re needed. And that’s going to minimize fuel and junketing perils. So you’re going to find way more gadget plus, also, a better-operating home.
Now, what about when you contribute an contraption? Think about a major gizmo: maybe an A/ C component or a whirlpool bath/ spa, something like that or another thing that uses a ton of energy. You have to make sure that your body can handle that. Because standard electrical boards provision 100, 150, 200 and 400 amps of dominance to your dwelling. Anything little is going to be illegal. And if you find that your breakers are junketing when you turn on the A/ C or that whirlpool bath, you are required to an upgrade.
We upgraded the panel to 200 service when I lay in the central air. You required to. And it’s huge because now there’s channels everywhere and everything tasks and it feels fantastic.
TOM: So, eventually, if you’re planning onward on a big project like a remodel, it’s a good idea, while everybody’s there and doing the manipulate, to add on replacing and informing that panel. And certainly, if you plan on selling, it’s a good hypothesi, as well. But exclusively a licensed electrician can take on that project.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. With HomeAdvisor, you can get matched with top-rated home service pros in your range and bible appointments online, all for free.
TOM: No stuff the type of job, HomeAdvisor compiles it fast and easy to hire very best neighbourhood pros.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Jackie in Colorado on the line with a wood-paneling question. How can we help you today?
JACKIE: Well, I’ve came this old, medium-colored, lumber paneling, which is really light, that was put over concrete walls. It’s one that’s got the black stripe in it.
JACKIE: I just want to know how the best way to clean it. Times ago, I squandered Murphen( ph) Oil.
TOM: You represent Murphy’s Oil?
TOM: Yeah, Murphy’s Oil Soap is the best action to clean timber. Have you used that again?
JACKIE: Well, I merely put-upon maybe a tablespoon with a pail of heated irrigate. Would that be OK?
TOM: Yeah, I think you can actually use a little more than that. Follow the label attitudes. But when you’re trying to clean old-time, timber paneling like that, Murphy’s Oil Soap is really the best course to go because it’s not going to dry out the wood and impair it. It’s highly, very gentle. Just follow the instructions but I think that’s the best product to use for that situation.
JACKIE: OK. I truly enjoy your planned. It’s only very enlightening for me and I’m not – you are aware, if I need to find something else, I’ll precisely call you guys.
TOM: Alright, Jackie. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: You can always email or berth your question at MoneyPit.com. And I’ve got one now from James who’s in Texas. And he writes: “I’m considering buying a home with textured walls. It looks like plaster was blown onto it. How hard is it going to be to smooth it out? ”
TOM: Hard. Really, really hard.
Look, textured walls, textured ceilings were popular for a very short period. And I think there’s been more effort put in by homeowners to get rid of it than there was ever to apply it to begin with. So, I would not try to make it perfectly smooth, because you are definitely setting yourself up for a disappointment.
You can take some of the sort of spikiness out of it but I would get it back to a residence that you like. And then I would tell you to coat it with flat draw. Do not use anything with a sheen because it will simply make it glance worse.
LESLIE: Alright. Tommy in Nebraska is up next who writes: “I’ve went central air conditioning that works great but I have a couple of apartments I actually don’t use. And I’m wondering if I should just close up those shows and slam the doors. Is that be able to help me save some money on cooling? ”
TOM: Yeah, it’ll help you save a little bit of coin on the cooling. So, you could completely close those vent-holes. You might was intended to wrap them with some, say, cellophane, some Saran Wrap, something like that. Because the ventilates themselves don’t certainly absolutely seal it out. It’ll have some impact on the cost of cooling your entire residence but I doubt it will have a stunning impact.
And if you do hear that the system is short-cycling- if the air conditioner is going on and off and on and off- then open them back up again, because that signifies the system is too big for the remaining rooms.
LESLIE: That’s smart. That’s a good gratuity because you sometimes recall bigger is better; not with A/ C.
TOM: Not ever. Yeah, that’s right.
Well, are you a first-time homeowner wondering what you need to know that us seasoned fund pitters previously do? Well, Leslie has got the lowdown, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Hey, guys. First, congratulations. You’re the proud owned of your very first home. Well, then the question is: now what? It’s like a kid. No one gives you instructions.
LESLIE: You’ve got to care for it, you’ve got to cherish it and you’ve got to figure out what it needs to survive.
So, as this first-time homeowner, you’ve got to remember it’s your job to maintain your residence year-round. So, first thing you need to do is get some implements, things that you’ll have around merely to help you when you come up with a little project here and there. Nothing crazy. I’m talking about a basic toolbox, like a mallet, assorted screwdrivers, a wrecking bar, level, adjustable strain. If you want or you’re feeling reckles or it’s a holiday, you can get some ability implements. Maybe a drill, circ examined, some simple things that’ll help you exactly advancement going on with the things going on in your house.
Now, you’ve got to also understand the basics of your home’s mechanical method. That’s a must. So you need to know where your water-main line is and how to shut it off. Because if there’s an emergency, you’ve got to know where to turn that irrigate off. And learn to use your fuse box. Check it out, find it. Keep a flashlight adjacent so when the capability goes out, you know how to get to it. Those are things that are going to be super helpful when and if an emergency occurs.
And you have to remember that home ownership keeps you in charge of extending all of those utilities. So if in the initial months in your new residence, maybe you’ve got some sticker offend over how much supremacy and ocean actually expenses, then start looking into taking some steps to manage those energy dollars. These are all things you’re not going to be familiar with right off the bat because renters, a lot of that nonsense is already taken care of.
And eventually, even if you’re in a brand-spanking new home that maybe has a warranty, it’s wise to have a contingency fund to cushion those curveballs that life can and surely will propel at a homeowner. So, make sure you’re ready.
If you want some more tips, merely Google “money cavity first-time homeowner tips.”
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the programmes, we’re all getting ready to plant some undergrowths and trees and buds. And you’re probably going to be throwing down some mulch. It is an excellent way to isolate newly planted trees and shrubs but too much can deprive them. We’ll have a tip on how to do this job the right way, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t “re going to have to” make love alone.
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