In this occurrence …
Are you ready to buy a bigger and better air conditioner to keep cool this summer? Well, you may be surprised to learn that bigger is not always better for your comfort. We’ll have tips on how to pick the most wonderful one for your residence. Plus…
Smelly water is a common objection among homeowners, for good reason: No one wants to drink, concoct or clean with water that smells like rotten eggs. We highlight the causes and cure.Summer gives us lots of opportunities to display the cherry-red, grey and blue-blooded. Monumental Day time overstepped, July 4th is ahead and this weekend we celebrate Flag Day! We’ve got some tips-off to help you hang and showing your signal.
Plus, answers to your home increase a matter of how to install brick pavers, repairing a linoleum storey, getting rid of termites, dryer venting options, is solar energy worth noting?
Do you have a home improvement or decoration question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question here.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler. LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete. TOM: And we’re now to assist you with your home increase, decor and remodeling activities. Time pick up the phone and call us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, berth your question online at MoneyPit.com or post it to our Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit. All great ways to get in touch. Coming up on this volume of the prove, it’s getting moderately heated outside. And this is about the time that kinfolks “ve been thinking about” buying a bigger and better air conditioner. But you may be surprised to learn that bigger is certainly not ever better for your comfort or for your billfold. So we’re going to walk you through some tips-off on how to pick the right immensity space A/ C or central A/ C for your residence. LESLIE: And smelly spray is a common disorder among homeowners and for good reason. I necessitate nobody wants to drink or cook or clean-living with liquid that can still smell the rotten eggs. We’re going to highlight some of the causes and the medications, precisely ahead. TOM: Plus, summer hands us lots of opportunities to display the red, grey and off-color. Monumental Day exactly elapsed; July 4th is ahead. And this weekend, we get to celebrate Flag Day. So we’ve got some tips-off to help you hang and showing your pennant. LESLIE: Plus, if “youre calling” us with your question or if you announce it to The Money Pit’s Facebook page, we’ve got a three-piece gardening mounted from Centurion to give away, which includes a smooth, a needle purse and a broom. TOM: It’s worth 51 horses. Exiting out to one caller drawn at random, so clear that you. Pick up the telephone, shoot us an email, go to the website, get in touch with us right now. That figure is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s first? LESLIE: Fonda( sp) in South Dakota, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today? FONDA( sp ): We are shattering our old-time deck that should contribute to an old-time patio at the ground level. And the old-fashioned patio has two substrates. You result down to a timber porch. It’s like grove- 2x6s, I ponder- which is in awful shape. It’s probably 30 hoofs by 30 hoofs. And then it butts up to a moderately substantial cement pad that’s 20 hoofs by 20 feet. And we know we’re going to demo the lumber pad but it’s- the question is: what do we lay in? Do we have to chop up the age-old cement pad, which is in immense determine, because it’s so substantial? Or can we put in another cement pad next to it for the brand-new terrace? Can you go over the age-old cement with something and stamp it or make it exactly- and then the other problem is is it’s square. And I would like the new porch at the ground level to be rounder and curvier. TOM: One mind that I have straight off is to go over the old-fashioned terrace with brick pavers. And if the terrace is flat and strong and solid, there’s no reason you can’t settled pavers on top of that. And so you could mostly create a- do almost a patio makeover by preserving the concrete and putting brick pavers right over the concrete. They’re all going to assemble together. You won’t picture them when they’re done. Now, you mentioned altering the condition. That, of course, is a little more complicated because you’re going to have to build up to the edges. Part of the porch would be over concrete and part of the patio would be over traditional, built-up stone, if that’s possible. But if you wish to avoid converting the chassis, then it becomes a very easy project to do it with brick pavers. And of course, you have lots and muches and lots of preferences on determines and colorings and all of that that you could go with. FONDA( sp ): And on the side that’s not cement, what’s under the brick pavers? TOM: On the side that’s not cement, what’s under the brick pavers is this. First of all, you dig up, apparently, all the grass and that sort of thing. Then you put down about 4 to 6 inches of gray-headed gravel. You tamp that down actually, certainly, really well. Then on top of that, you lay some sand. Get that delightful and flat. On top of that, you articulated the brick pavers and then you kept added sand in between. But tamping and properly preparing that sand and tamping that stone really well is critical. Because if you don’t, it gets all roly-poly over the years and weeds start to grow up through it. FONDA( sp ): Alright. Well, expressed appreciation for. TOM: You’re welcome, Fonda. Good luck with that projection. Time in time for summer. 888 -6 66 -3 974. LESLIE: Tim in Michigan is on the line with issues and questions about wavy linoleum. What is going on with your diskette flooring? TIM: So, “were having” the flooring laid a duet years ago. It’s your standard, hovering vinyl linoleum flooring. One bit. When it was laid- the flooring, to me, was not laid accurately. They didn’t stretch it out as they are able to. And now we’re dealing with puckers in the flooring. We’re dealing with- in front of our dishwasher, in our door province it’s kind of wrinkling up. We’re just wondering what some of the simple modes would be to fix it aside from merely taking all the devices out of the kitchen. And too, what would be an alternative without interrupting the bank? TOM: OK. Well, search, it is very difficult for you to fix what’s happening to that flooring. I’m not quite sure why it’s happening. You mentioned that it wasn’t pulled. You don’t certainly pull linoleum when you positioned it down. And if it’s floating, there’s no adhesion and that can actually be a blessing. There’s no adhesive; it’ll be easy for you to take it up. Typically, when you do put down a membrane commodity like that, the care and the prep involves in uttering sure the subfloor is absolutely smooth and flat. And very often, installers will situate a second layer of a type of plywood that we call “luan- l-u-a-n- plywood”- it’s a very smooth, finished plywood- on top of it and they’ll attach it with a peal fingernail, which is the nail that has peals in it and grooves. And it appends awfully, is a good one. But that’s pretty much it. Now, if this has slackened up and unfolded on its own- and probably in the wear and tear regions because, you are aware, you walk up to the dishwasher and you stop and you start. And you scuff your feet or you go to the refrigerator and you stare at it 10:00 at night, like I do sometimes when I know I shouldn’t be looking at it at that hour and want something to eat. It mostly wears and weepings on that storey. So, I conceive I would, personally, give up on trying to fix what you have. TIM: OK. TOM: I mean you could take the gadgets out and you could glue it. But I just want to tell you that there are so many good flooring commodities out today- that are very, very affordable- that you could replace this with. And you could do it fairly quickly and reasonably simply. For pattern, if you look at Lumber Liquidators’ places and Lumber Liquidators.com, they have a line of engineered vinyl plank- EVP- and LVP, which is luxury vinyl plank. Man, this trash is gorgeous. It look like the wood that it’s designed to replicate. It’s durable. I leant some of this down for my momma and she had a tough kitchen, with a lot of different weird angles and nonsense because of the method the house was improved. And we laid it down and it’s been great. She was worried about a flooring being slippery. This was not. It’s been cleaning really well for her. But aside from that, you could consider too employing laminate flooring. And they have laminate storeys today that have a locking seam that’s waterproof, so the irrigate doesn’t soak into them. TIM: I was just going to ask about that laminate, because we just had that done in our dining room and our bedroom. Would that be acceptable in a kitchen? TOM: Yes. I would look at the high-performance laminates that- I are aware of the one that Lumber has- Lumber Liquidators has. Or actually, they call themselves LL Flooring now. They merely had a name change. Has a special seal. I think it’s called AquaSeal. And it mostly- I did a little video on it once where we kind of spouted a whole cluster of liquid on it and tried to get it to break through the seal. And we couldn’t do it. So, I think that’s pretty good stuff and I judge laminate’s a good option, as well. I would look at the laminates. I would look at the EVPs if you’re not familiar with that. And the third thing I was going to mention is engineered flooring. So you could have real hardwood in the kitchen, which I normally would not recommend if it was full-thickness. But engineered is made up of multiple mantles of hardwood or different types of wood, so it’s dimensionally stable and it can take a saturation if you have to mop the floor without swelling up and making a mess of it. TIM: Sure. Let me ask you another question, because the problem that we’re dealing with- because I thought about all of that. And I recall the only one that would work in that room would be the LVP or the EVP. And the reason why I say that is the flooring is not altogether even across. There is a little bit of a( inaudible) where they supplemented on the kitchen but they never leveled up that storey. TOM: So, there’s a product called “floor-leveling compound” that you can pick up. And basically, the way floor-leveling compound manipulates is you catch your height in this floor. Now, there’s different ways to do this; there’s some tricks of the trade. But what I like to do is if I am working with a degree and let’s say I shoot a level line across the wall and I’m measuring down to figure out where I’m at with that, I will position a screwhead at the finish-floor height that I crave, in got a couple of a different places. And that becomes a guide. And then when you pour this leveling combination- and it kind of free-floats and ends out. And when you do this, if you watch those screwheads that you simply lay in, you’ll know when you’re kind of in the ballpark of being level. And the stuff gets really hard and then you can really storey right over it. So there’s a way to redres that. TIM: OK. Well, hey, I increase the callback and we’re going to start looking into this and … TOM: Resounds good, Tim. Thanks so much for reaching out to The Money Pit. And stay safe out there. TIM: Perfectly. Thank you, sir. LESLIE: Well, Father’s Day is just a week away and we’ve launched a new sweepstakes to help you win tools for Dad. It’s called the DIY Dad Giveaway and we’ve came 10 sets of tools from Arrow to give away to 10 luck wins. TOM: That’s right. Each placed is worth $ 120 and includes both a T50 and a PT50 Arrow Staple Gun, as well as an Arrow GT3 00 High-Temp Glue Gun. These are all tools that are excellent for taking on dozens of projects around the house. Arrow is all about constituting durable, reliable tools and fastenings, so they’re going to give your daddy years of use. LESLIE: You can enter once a day at MoneyPit.com. And be sure to take advantage of the many actions that you can earn extra entries, by subscribing to our podcast or visiting us on social media. TOM: Enter again at MoneyPit.com. LESLIE: Now we’ve went Martin on the line who wants to talk about fascia boards. That is an excellent design detail on the exterior. What can we do for you? MARTIN: The fascia boarding that connects the ceiling of my hall roof to the overhang has separated from the ceiling. And I want to find out if I need to- do I need to rip that out and change it? Or can I exactly seal it and maybe introduced a larger molding over it? TOM: Well, if the fascia board is tightening up, then I would tell you to resecure it. And that’s actually not an unusual thing to happen, because the fingernails that hold that are usually going into the ends of the rafters behind it. They tend to expand and contract a lot. But what I would do is I would tell you to resecure it but get it on with bolts , not with claws. If you use long screws- like 21/2 -inch, case-hardened drywall bolt or wood-trim screws- that will pull that fascia board back in tight and it’ll be impossible for it to loosen up again. So don’t think of it in terms of something veil it. Precisely framed it back where it was but use fuckings instead of tacks and it won’t come out again, OK? MARTIN: And do I do that by proceeding under the molding? TOM: Well, you want to try to get that fascia board resecured in, so if that is going to require you to take off a piece of molding to get to it, then that’s what you do. But you want to get to the original fascia and tighten it up. MARTIN: OK. I can do that, then. Thank you very much. LESLIE: Well, if you’re planning to buy a apartment air conditioner this summer, one of the most important considerations is the size of the unit. But contrary to what you might mull, bigger is not better. TOM: Yep. And here’s why. If you buy a legion that has too much chill ability, it’s going to waste energy. And one that’s too small is not going to do a good job of preserving your home comfortable. Plus, here’s something very few people understand. An oversized part will swiftly cool the breeze but it’ll do so without moving long enough to dehumidify your home. And that’s going to result in your dwelling being very damp and smelly instead of cool and pleasant. It’s not good. LESLIE: Yeah. Now, influencing the best size air conditioner for your apartment genuinely depends on a number of factors, including the type of air-conditioning unit that you plan to install, the size of the area you need to install it in and the size of the window. TOM: Now, most producers will have some sort of handy calculator that’ll step you through the most important considerations and then deliver the right recommendation for your dwelling. And if you’ve got the choice, remember it’s ever best to install the unit on the crooked area of the area and keep the vent out of the direct sunlight. That reaches it race more effectively. And make sure you are only buying air conditioners that are rated ENERGY STAR. If they’re not ENERGY STAR-rated, don’t do it. You’ll waste a lot of coin. LESLIE: Heading out to Texas where Ray is dealing with some irrigate noises. What’s going on? Can’t sleep, huh? RAY: Well, whenever you turn the hot water on, sometimes it sounds like somebody in there with a little jackhammer. I don’t know. Maybe the pipes sounding or whatever. But I don’t know how to stop it. TOM: Yep. Yeah. Alright. So … RAY: I settled two branches in. TOM: Mm-hmm. Yeah. It’s not the stems, though, Ray. Here’s what’s going on. That is called “water hammer.” And basically, it’s caused by the force of the ocean starting and stopping as it passages through the hoses. And copper tubes, in particular, have this amazing ability to resonate, like a bad musical instrument. And so, all of that sound and that banging you hear is when the sea stops and starts because you’re operating the valve. The hose is loose, so you’re coming that rattle. And that can resonate and make it sound even louder. There’s two things that you can do. So, first of all, depending on how your room is built, if you can get to those pipes, you can add added brackets, merely little U-clamps to attach them to the sides of the grove framing that’s around it, so that they don’t have any ability to kind of rattle. And I would do that first, because that’s the easiest thing to do. And the second thing you do is there actually is a plumbing device called a “water hammer arrestor, ” which is kind of like a torsion bars for your hoses. And it exits at the end of the line and it makes sort of the force out of that liquid starting and stopping and will stop the pipe from jiggling and shaking as a result. Does that make sense? RAY: Yes. What you’re saying does make sense to me. But this wasn’t happening until I changed the stems. I had one branch that was broken. Whenever you go to turn it off, if you turned it extremely far it would come back on. So that stop was broken, so I ousted that stem. And then I supplanted the other stem and then I started noticing this water hammer happening. TOM: I have some guess as to why that’s happening. It’s either co-occurrence, OK, or most likely, the brand-new stanches that you put in there are operating much more effectively than the old-fashioned stems. So when the old stanches- when you turn the water off, if you were to turn that water off very slowly, then you’re not going to get that water hammer, because you’re kind of slowing down that force, right? So if the root was somehow inefficient- the aged one- and now you made this new one in- I don’t know what kind of valves you have but these new ceramic-disc valves that are so common today, when that valve goes off, it goes off in a flash. And that could be just enough to realize these hoses shake. So it may be coincidental to this or it is capable of being unrelated. But regardless of why it’s happening, it’s not being caused by the branches; it may be the result of a more efficient stem than you had before. So you’ve got to precisely self-assured the pipes and that should- most likely, that will do it. But if it continues to get bad and strain you, you can put in the water-hammer arrestors. RAY: OK. One other issues. Now, if nothing is done, is there any possible damage that’s going to come( inaudible ). TOM: It’s unlikely. It’s possible that you have been able, you know, shake a solder seam release or something and make a opening. But that would be- I’d consider that rare. It’s more of an bothering, I envisage, for you than anything. Good fortune with that, Ray. Thanks so much for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. LESLIE: Well, it’s a common disorder among homeowners and for good reason: nobody wants to drink, concoct or bathe with smelly, yucky, rotten-egg tap water. We’ve got some tips on the most common causes of that rotten-egg smell and what can be done to make it go away. TOM: Yeah. So, first, let’s talk about what that aroma is. It’s actually sulfur and it rears its stinky pate most often in homes that are located on a groundwater supply, as opposed to a district water supply, because the groundwater can pick up hydrogen sulfide, which is a naturally occurring gas. Now, that hydrogen sulfide gets absorbed into the water, it comes into the house and there you have your odor. It’s not dangerous and it’s actually not even injurious, but it’s really annoying because it flavors excessively bad. LESLIE: It really does smell bad. So, how do you take care of it? Can you receiving treatment? TOM: Well, if the smell is coming from both hot and cold water, then you should call a well contractor. They’ll install a filter that will minimize that. But most frequently, it could be coming, predominantly, from the hot-water side and that could be because of a whole different conclude. It can occur when the sacrificial anode baton that’s inside your water-heater tank basically diminishes apart. These are commonly made of magnesium, which the hydrogen sulfide criticizes. And it secretes that rotten-egg smell and eating away at the perch at the same time which is, by design, what it’s supposed to do. That’s why it’s called a “sacrificial rod.” They’re basically the least noble metal in the container, which implies rather than the steel specific areas of the sea heater rusting apart and leaking and effecting that big mess in your room, these rods get the brunt of the water’s attack. So, what you want to do is just replace that magnesium rod with an aluminum sacrificial anode perch. And that’s going to be much more impervious or resistant to that hydrogen sulfide. And they actually do get the job done. They do so without health risks of so much sulfur adhering to them and then being released into your dwelling. So, bottom line , no more stinky irrigate. You can pick them up for about 30 horses at any plumbing-supply house. LESLIE: Now we’ve went Cody in Texas who’s got a safety question: the dryer ventilate has become undid. Yes, Cody, this is dangerous. CODY: Say, so I was up in the attic the other day and I considered some of the insularity blowing. The dryer was feeing at the time. And I strolled over there and I could feel the air from the dryer blowing in from between the walls, you are aware? And that kind of concerned me. It seemed to me like it’s not connected within the wall and it’s merely blowing out. I’m wondering, is that a big deal? Do I need to go in the wall and oust that? Or is it going to be fine the practice it is? TOM: No, it’s not punishment at all the way it is, for two reasons. Number one, it’s a fuel hazard because all that dust is being captured inside that wall cavity. That’s a major burn hazard. And furthermore, all that moisture from your soaked clothes is being blown up into the attic in that insulation. And once it manufactures the insularity damp, the insulation does not work. If you even add a minor amount of sweat to isolation, it loses about a third of its R-value. So, you want to figure out what went wrong and get wise specified. It can show up into the attic but it has to continue through the attic and out to an exterior wall or out to the roof or out to a soffit. So you need to figure out why it detached, what happened and get it fixed in the easiest way possible. But get that dryer expres pointed outside as quickly as you can. CODY: OK. I’ll do that. There’s some closets hanging above the dryer, so I approximate I need to draw those off and cut into the sheetrock to try to see where the unplug is. TOM: Well, perhaps. Why don’t you time pull the dryer out to begin with, poke a light-headed in that duct and see if it tells you anything and then go from there? Try to minimize the exploratory surgery, Cody. OK? CODY: Yeah, OK. I’ll do that. I appreciate it. TOM: The more you cut open, the more you’ve got to fix, mortal. Well, if you’ve been working in the yard this spring, we’ve got some huge tools to give away that can help, from Centurion. We’ve got the All-Season Leaf and Garden Cleanup Set. I like this because it’s all in one. It’s a situated of ergonomically-designed tools that are engineered to help you get this place done as readily as possible. You’ve got a telescoping, all-season bristle broom. You’ve got an aluminum expandable smooth psyche. That’s cool because it will expand from 71/2 inches to 21 inches. How many times, Leslie, have you had to rake and needed to kind of reach in or under or it’s too wide. LESLIE: The rake’s not wide enough. Right. TOM: For me, it’s more like it’s extremely wide and I’m trying to shove three tines on the left-edge quarter of the smooth, under something to drag out that last leaf. It’s pretty cool that it’s resilient like that. Plus, you get a leaf pickup bag with administers. It’s worth 51 horses. Proceeding out to one caller drawn at random. Learn more at CenturionBrands.com. That number, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. LESLIE: Sandy in Iowa is on the line and she has got a problem where the stairs fill the wall. What’s going on there? SANDY: In my stairwell, where the sheetrock encounters the flooring joist, when they originally did that, they framed that – you know how they use that ponderous article substance and then they mud over that? Well, that cracked. And I rind that off and now I’m trying to figure out how to smooth that over there between the sheetrock and the storey joist in the vault. Because it’s sheetrock to wood, I don’t know what material to use to fill that cracking so that I can paint over and it look smooth. TOM: So, what you want to do- it sounds like you gathered the old strip off- the paper tape off. Is that correct? SANDY: I did. TOM: Well, that’s OK. Because what you want to do now is you want out and buy some fiberglass strip. Now, fiberglass drywall videotape is perforated. It’s kind of like webbing; it’s a little tacky. When you cut a piece off, you threw it on top of that seam. And what that’s going to do is bridge the gap across the seam. And then you cover that with spackle. And you was necessary to do about three highly, very thin coatings. Don’t put too much on. A little bit of spackle travels a long way. Sand in between in each one and then really construct it out and build it up over those three coatings and that’ll be fine. And because you placed the videotape over- the fiberglass videotape- it shouldn’t crack again. SANDY: That sounds like something I can do. TOM: I think you can, Sandy. LESLIE: Well, time generates us lots of opportunities to display the red-faced, grey and blue. And Flag Day is June 14 th and I visualize, this year, we are all celebrating what it means to be resilient Americans. And what’s a better style to do that than flying our flag? Well, we’ve got some tips to help you pay proper respect to our signal, because there’s ever some disorder on- how do I be dealt with? Which way do I hang it? So let’s clear all of this up. Start of all, you’ve got to handle the flag with attend. Your American flag should not touch the floor, become worn or even soiled. TOM: Yep. Now, when you’re flying the flag, it should be displayed with the blue union up, except as a distress signal in times of grim emergency. Now, another important bit of pennant courtesy: never use the flag as a wrapping or any other sort of decoration. That’s what the red-faced, white-hot and off-color bunting is for. LESLIE: Mm-hmm. Now, here’s some other protocol that you’ve got to follow. When you’re hoisting the flag, you want to raise it briskly. And when you’re lowering it, you want to lower it ceremoniously to a recipient’s waiting handwritings. You’ve got to fold the flag neatly and carefully for storage. And when you fly your signal at night, you need to make sure that there’s a light on it at all times. So, collect a recognize that’s illuminated by a foyer or a streetlight or consider installing sensor lights that automatically come on and illuminate your American signal for the night. TOM: Now, once in a while we get a matter of how to attach a flag bracket to various types of siding material, whether it’s brick or it’s wood or it’s vinyl. We’ve got an article on how to do just that. It’s online at MoneyPit.com. LESLIE: Heading over to Louisiana where Albert is looking to take on a green job by adding solar panel. How can we help you? ALBERT: Well, I’d like to put up some solar panel. TOM: Alright. ALBERT: But my bride and I were discussing it and she seems to think they’d do better on the roof. Now, we have a pretty good bit of belonging here and I’m wanting to settled it out in back of the house and away from the house. And she seems to think that being away from the house, it would- they would lose some of the effectiveness. Is that true-blue? TOM: Well, if you placed them on the ceiling, they are closer to the sun. She’s right about that. ALBERT: Yeah. TOM: I don’t think that’s going to make a big difference. Listen, if these things are wired correctly, you can certainly collect the energy whether they are at grade level or on the roof. The included complication of putting them on the roof is that you have to kept them over your roof shingles or whatever roof fabric you have. And when, eventually, that roof flunks, you have to remove the panels and- to reroof. So, it does add a complicated stage. How old is your roof now? Do you think you’re going to be replacing it in the next few years? ALBERT: It’s probably 10 years old. TOM: Alright. So I mean you might be halfway through it. I just think, at some place, you’re going to be dealing with that and you’d have to decide if that’s an issue for you. Now, if you do applied it at point, do you have anything that would be in its mode, like trees overhanging, interrupting the accessibility to the sun, for example? ALBERT: Well, I have an open property and trees. TOM: Well, if it’s open, you think about the flow of the sunshine- the slant of the sunshine- throughout the year. As long as it’s open, then that might be a good option for you. ALBERT: Yeah. OK. Well, I was necessary to placed it, probably, about 100, 125 hoofs from the house, you are aware? TOM: Right. ALBERT: And I didn’t know whether that would- I would lose any power owing to the fact that far from the house. TOM: Well, it depends on how you’re collecting it and that comes into the system that you’re working with. There is a company that is called Wholesale Solar, who does a lot of really good work working with homeowners to help them make sure that they are choosing the right system and the privilege components for their job. You might was necessary to merely have a chat to those used guys. And there’s no ill or no outlay in do that. Their website is WholesaleSolar.com. I have had some of their people, because they genuinely know what they’re doing, on the reveal on occasion. And they could probably walk you through some more options. ALBERT: OK. Audio great. I appreciate that information. TOM: Good fortune with the project. LESLIE: Chris from Oklahoma posted: “My neighbors just detected termites in the wood trim of their residence. Could this mean that I have them? Am I more likely to get them? What should I do? ” TOM: That’s funny. Listen, termites were here long before we were here, Chris, and they’ll probably be here long after we’re gone. The knowledge that your neighbour has them doesn’t definitely put your house at more or less risk of get some sort of termite infestation, because it’s one of Mother Nature’s stupendous ways of getting rid of dead wood, which unfortunately is the stuff we use to build residences with, right? So, what you should be doing now is having your home inspected on an annual basis by a licensed pest-control operator or a home inspector or beings that are in the business of inspecting, because they’re going to know how to spot termites and termite infestations behavior before you are able to. The worst time to find a termite infestation out is when they’re swarming. Because when they swarm, they germinate offstages and they fly everywhere. And gentleman, talk about gross. That is the grossest instant. LESLIE: It’s gross. TOM: Thousands of flying bugs that can totally devastate your space. But here’s something that’s interesting about those crowds that a good deal of beings don’t know, Leslie. If you get a swarm and they’re everywhere at once, those termites actually aren’t the kind that are doing the damage. Those are the reproducers and they’re going out to find some copulates. Now, if you do … LESLIE: Where are the damaging ones? TOM: Yeah, accurately. So, if you do find termites, though, there is a type of termiticide called an “undetectable” that’s very effective. Termidor is one of the main brand names. And mostly, the highway the stuff manipulates is it’s infused into the soil. It appoints kind of a impediment that termites pass through to and from their work on your home. And it totally obliterates out the part colony. So, it’s a very effective way to protect your house from termite detriment. You can kind of settle a hindrance around it and it cultivates better than the types of pesticides they used to use, which were detectable by termites because they would sense it and try to go around it. So “youve been” had- and they’re persistent at this. So “youve been” had to framed much more on to control that. With this material, you put on just what you need. I shouldn’t say you; it’s applied by a professional. And it genuinely wreaks quite well. So, look for those undetectables: Termidor or same concoctions. LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post now from Barb in Maine. Now, Barb writes: “I’m redoing my basement and putting a shower down there. Do I need to employed a net in the shower or will a straight depletion be OK? ” TOM: Hmm. Yeah. Well, you always need a bait in a shower and you always need to drain it into the waste line for the members of this house- the central sewage route for the house. You say straight depletion. I’m not quite sure what you mean by that but I’m guessing maybe you’re thinking you could drain it through the flooring or duct it outside to evaluate, because it’s merely a shower. Not the right way to go. Now, the deception here is that the pump for a vault lavatory may be lower than the waste pipe. So then you need to use what’s called a “lift pump” or specific, a sewage filch gush, which is a special type of pump that basically collects the waste water. And if there’s a full soap down there, it’s going to grind it, more. And then it spouts it up to a time where it can then gravity flow down through the … LESLIE: Up and out. TOM: Yeah, up and out and away to never be seen again. But you surely need to have a proper drain on that and that includes a bunker. LESLIE: Alright, Barb. Good luck with that. That’s really great adding a shower in the vault. TOM: Forming good dwellings better, you’ve been listening to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on this beautiful, late-spring day. Summer is just around the corner. We are always here for you, on breath and off, to answer your home improvement questions. You can get those to us by announcing them at MoneyPit.com or to Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit. But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler. LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete. TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself … LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
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