In this chapter …
With all the humidity, it’s that time of year when doorways swell and get stuck in their openings. We’ve got the easy fixture for sticking openings. Plus.
Before you can add the new you have to get rid of the old-time- and that can often be a costly part of any home renovation. We’ll share gratuities to help lighten the load and trimmed demolition costsAnd we’ll have the how to on a enjoyable garden-variety campaign- building a collected landscaping wall that useful for creating a ring around a tree or created garden wall to dress up the front of your home.Ready to strengthened in your home’s first impression? We saunter you through how-to fix up your wood floorings with a fresh hair of finish.
Plus, answers to your dwelling progress questions, about building a firepit, supplanting baseboard heating clothes, scavenging jacuzzi jets, leveling storeys, how thwart cellar inundating by chastening surround of foundation.
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we are here for you, to help you construct your dwelling its best self ever. If you’ve got a question about a project you’d like to do, a project you’re thinking about do, a project you’re in the middle of or one that really has been totally annoying to you , now is your chance to get some help. Call us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. We won’t judge, we will not make fun of you. Well, maybe a little bit. But we’ll obviously help you get your job done, so call us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s show, here is a summer headache that’s popping its horrid premier right now. And it’s sticking doors. You know, once all that humidity sits in, it is the time of year when entrances swell and get stuck in their openings. But there is an easy correct and we’re going to tell you how to make sure that door labors year-round, irrespective of the brave, in time a bit.
LESLIE: And before you can add the new, you have to get rid of the old-fashioned. And that can often be the costly part of any dwelling restoration. We’re going to share some gratuities to help lighten the consignment and cut those demolition costs.
TOM: And we also have the how-to on a merriment gardening campaign. And that is how to build a fostered landscaping wall that is very useful for creating a little bit of a border or a reverberate around a tree or a border around your house or a promoted garden wall to dress up the figurehead of your live. We’ll walk you through that projection. It’s as easy a stacking blocks.
LESLIE: But first, let’s talk about how we can help you meet your dwelling your absolute glad arrange the summer months with a fix-up, a decoration projection. Whatever you are working on, we know you’re going to be spending more occasion at home. So cause us help you make it the best plaza to be.
TOM: Post your questions at MoneyPit.com or ask us, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: We’ve get Catherine in Delaware on the line who’s got a question about a attack pit. How can we help you today?
CATHERINE: Well, I’d love to have a homemade fire pit in my backyard and I don’t want to buy a metal one. That’ll exclusively get rust-brown, right?
TOM: Yeah, they do but they previous a heck of a long time. I did not want to framed a built-in fire pit in my backyard because I didn’t want to have to deal with it in the off-seasons. It would be hard to shovel around and that sort of stuff when the snowfall hits. So I actually, personally, have been using a metal burn cavity for many years. And I is my finding that they last-place, gosh, 5 to eight years before they start to show any wear and tear. So I’m not afraid to use a metal fuel quarry but I can tell you that if you want to do a brick ardour excavation or a paver-brick fire pit, there’s lots of options right out there.
One firm that makes a kit for it is RumbleStone. It’s the Pavestone Company. And these RumbleStone pavers, they’ll sell you basically all the bricks that there is a requirement. The RumbleStone are sort of like a roughed, beautiful, colored stone that you assemble into a circle blueprint. And then the style they design it, there’s a metal sort of liner that plunges right into the stone and that’s where you erect your fire.
So you can do it yourself but you could also purchase a shoot crater. It depends on what seem you are going for and how long you want it to last.
Well, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
CATHERINE: Thank you. I will. Bye-bye.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve went Steve from Massachusetts on the line. What’s going on at your money pit?
STEVE: Hi, Leslie. Hi, Tom. I was calling because I needed a bit advice on baseboard-heating covers.
STEVE: And I didn’t know if I was going in over my premier with trying to remove the whole cover or whether I’d be better off only doing a replacing cover.
TOM: Well, you want to change the design or the coloring or something? Why do you want to update this, Steve? What’s going on?
STEVE: Some of these are falling apart. They’re original to the house and I’m trying to make it a little bit- the cleaner look.
TOM: I think it’s probably OK for you to remove these and regenerate them. I’m not that crazy about telling you to just take them all apart and go with something else because frankly, it’s difficult to get brand-new considers in and have them work as well as probably the aged embraces do.
So, if you have been able take those apart and repair them- and they- everything but the back bit will come off. So the top will come off, the louver component will come off, the figurehead board will come off. You should be looking at just the hot-water pipe with the fins attached and a metal back plate when you’re done.
TOM: And if you make that all apart, you have the opportunity now to repair anything that needs to be repaired. There’s not much that goes wrong with it, so you can probably digit this out. And then you could do a glowing sanding, you could pick a delightful spray paint, a good pigment and go ahead and paint them up and then positioned them back together. And I think that’s going to be the least expensive thing for you to do that will give you a good, clean-living regard and get everything making the acces it should.
Sometimes, when you go with those encompasses, they hamper so much better of the heat that you end up having to run the hot longer precisely to get the same amount of heat out of it. And that runs your heating-bill cost up because you’re using more fuel.
STEVE: Oh. Yeah. Which I wish to avoid doing.
TOM: Yeah. So I’d stick with what you’ve got and merely fix it up. It’s not a hard project to do.
STEVE: OK. Yeah, that sounds like an easy DIY or do-it-yourself project- DIY.
TOM: Yep. Yep, absolutely.
STEVE: Alright. Well, thanks so much better for your summon me back and I revalue your help and guidance. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Steve. Good luck with the project. Send us pictures when you’re done, OK?
STEVE: Alright. We will. Thanks so much. Have a good day.
LESLIE: Robin in Missouri is looking to relax but that’s not happening with mold in the Jacuzzi. What’s going on?
ROBIN: We have this large bathtub Jacuzzi and it has a marble stair and trim around it. And it’s a beautiful Jacuzzi but I noticed that the hoses there was like- I don’t know if it’s mildew coming out of that or what. When we got the house it sat for a while. And then we filled it up and framed Palmolive Dishwashing Liquid in it, you know, and tried to clean it out and so on.
TOM: I bet you it came exceedingly sudsy when you did that.
ROBIN: That’s what they said to do. And regardles, we likewise got it glazed or depicted, as they usually say, and it various kinds of faded off. And we had the fixtures painted, more, and we recalled the people that were make it were really reputable. But now, the fixtures – you know where the jets are? The resounds around the airplanes and so on?
ROBIN: The paint’s kind of fading and …
TOM: Alright. So it reverberates to me like we’re talking about two issues now. Number one, you have some sort of growth that’s been inside the internal plumbing system of this sprayed bathtub. And furthermore, the finish has faded and you had it reinstated some time ago. And the finish is starting to fade and chipping and so on.
So, let’s tackle the second one first. It’s awfully, very hard to refinish a plumbing fixture, I can tell you that right now. There is a way to get it on. It’s most corrosive. I don’t even know if you can do it to a jetted bathtub, which is usually a fiberglass-type material. It’s very hard to do when it’s cast-iron bathtubs and sinks that tribes love to restore, which is a unusually, exceedingly corrosive process. And then the products that they sell that you can sort of paint over them don’t have nearly the life expectancy that you would hope for.
In expressions of whatever may be going on in the internal plumbing system, what I have often cautioned over the years is to use a bleach answer. So, if you were to fill that bathtub up and race- if you had a big tub and you run a 1/2 -gallon or a gallon of bleach through those sprays, that’s going to help to sanitize anything that’s growing in there.
So if it was my tub, I’d probably fill it up with hot water, throw in the towel some bleach and cause the thing run for a while. I wouldn’t set anything sudsy in there, because there’s a reason that dishwasher detergent, for example, doesn’t suds up. It’s designed not to do that. But if you dishwasher- if you placed dish soap in there, it’s going to suds up like crazy. But I fantasize all you really need is hot water and some bleach to sterilize it and that might do a pretty good job of scavenging it.
And I is a well-known fact that the jetted-tub industry has other special commodities that they sell for the very same reason. But I think it’s important to do that because you don’t require anything growing in the internal plumbing and then potentially uttering someone act of having an allergic reaction or stimulating them sick or something. So I would definitely want to clean that out.
So, I know that’s not the answer you want to hear about the drawn face but it is certainly the way to sanitize the internal plumbing system of it.
ROBIN: OK. Yeah, that’s why I never use that bathtub. I precisely don’t usage it.
TOM: You didn’t have a good feeling of the human rights reasons.
TOM: So, why don’t you sacrifice it a shot, though? And see if we can clean this thing out and make it- and we start to see that it’s actually- it’s systematically shooting out some clean-living water. Maybe you’d feel better about throwing into it now and again, OK?
ROBIN: What about the airplane fixtures on it and the tub itself? How do I get that glaze-type finish off of it?
TOM: Well, if you’re talking about the plumbing fixtures, like the faucet- like the gush and that sort of thing, those you would simply have to replace. If you’re talking about the body of the tub and you’ve already refinished it formerly, there’s not going to be much you can do about that. It’s just going to be the wear and tear of that particular gadget from now on out.
ROBIN: OK. So I’ll probably just replace it.( inaudible)
TOM: Yeah, well, that would solve everything, wouldn’t it?
ROBIN: Yeah, OK. Well , thank you very much.
TOM: Alright. You’re welcome. Good fortune with that project. Thanks for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, time is the season for many things. And one is sticking doorways. Yep. If you’ve had a door in your mansion that puts due to summer humidity, you don’t have to tolerate it anymore.
TOM: Yep, that’s true-life. First, to fix it you need to first find out where around the door the affixing begins. So to do that, just open and close the door gradually until you spot the exact sphere where it’s starting to stick.
Now, here is a trick of the swap to assist you figure that recognise out. And what you do is you take a piece of chalk- colored chalk is certainly best- and you color the outside edge of the door. Then, by opening and closing that doorway a couple of epoch, that chalk brand is going to transfer to the exact point on the jamb where the lodging is starting. So there’ll be no doubt which area you need to focus your attention on.
LESLIE: Now, once you find the recognize, first try the easiest fix. And that’s- one of the most common concludes that the door is lodging is because they have loose hinges and that comes everything out of alignment. So, by tightening the hinges, the door might alter just enough to free up the country that’s sticking.
Now, sometimes, it’s too helpful to remove the standard hinge fastens that are already in there. Take a drill, whatever you have, use a motorist. Get that clamp out and supplant it with a longer one, which is going to go all the way into the jamb itself. You’d be surprised how much that opening can move once it’s simply tightened up. And in fact, it might move too much. And then if it does, you simply need to back out that screw until it equips only the right amount of authorization. So it’s kind of like a trial and error. See what’s working, what’s not working. You might see that.
Now, another option is to precisely sand the door where it’s sticking. And to do that, you want to take a rough slouse of sandpaper and chafe it firmly along the section of the door that’s been fastening. Now, your goal is to bring down the size of the door by really a fraction of an inch before you research it again. You can repeat this process until you’ve sanded down all of those sticking point and that doorway no longer protrudes in the formulate. But try not to overdo it. Once that opening fits well, you can use progressively finer sandpaper to only smooth out those rougher edges and get everything prepped to repaint.
TOM: Now, formerly the door fits in the chassis properly, it’s time to seal it with either depict or a clearly defined finish. Because if you seal the leading edge that you sanded, you will reduce the possibility that sweat will get in there and cause the wood to swell once again.
888-666-3974. If you’ve got a sticky problem like that or anything else, announce us, right now, with your dwelling improvement question.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’re heading to Illinois where Joey is on the line with a flooring controversy. What’s going on?
JOEY: My house was built in 1910. And the third floor they- there’s really a good deal of soft spot in the storey in different distinguishes. I didn’t know what the best way to fix it. I signify it’s an old flooring. You can’t parallel it up to anything today.
TOM: Right. So, are you seeing the storey or is the floor covered with carpet? Do you ascertain the actually tongue-and-groove or whatever type of subfloor is there?
JOEY: Yeah, yeah. You investigate the tongue-and-groove, yeah.
JOEY: And underneath of it is just a plaster-and-lath underneath the next floor.
TOM: Right. So you’re on top of the storey joist, patently, and you meet the ceiling below.
Now, where you say it’s soft, is it your sense that there’s some further deterioration of the wood there? Is there decomposed from a water seep or termites or anything of that quality? When you say soft, what do you signify?
JOEY: Somebody introduced a unit upstairs. And to get the express for the downstairs- the breath vent-holes- they trimmed flaws in the floor and they patched it back in.
TOM: Yep. OK.
JOEY: And they kind of didn’t actually make love right. They only kept …
TOM: Bang like they didn’t carry it right. OK. So, mostly, you had some grove killers there doing the flooring work.
JOEY: Yeah, yeah. So they- yeah, they kind of did that.
TOM: Alright. Yeah.
JOEY: And then there’s other discerns that are just like you tread on them and it’s simply- it’s like it’s going to break or it’s going to fall through.
TOM: Hmm. OK.
JOEY: I’m just worried about my babies up there, you know. My girls, their chambers are up there so I don’t miss them falling through.
TOM: Right, yeah. OK. So, where you have distinguishes “thats been”- if they just trimmed a pit in the storey to run a passage through and they didn’t support the edges- yeah, you can’t precisely have those flooring councils sort of be free-floating like that. There has to be some sort of a structural support underneath for them to rest on. And if they just cut excavations and didn’t sort of beef it up for that role, then that’s a problem.
Now, unfortunately, the only way to really do that at this point is to make some of that flooring apart. But what I would tell you is if you are dealing with tongue-and-groove- and I’ve had to patch a lot of old tongue-and-groove floors in my daylight- is that you want to avoid the temptation of simply chipping it square. If you think about the way tongue-and-groove flooring goes in, the ends are overlapping. So you don’t have everything sort of lined up in a single sort of line. You use different immensity boards and then the end of the boards sort of overlap the next sequence and so on.
So what you virtually have to do is you’ll have to physically cut one board out. And then once you get one board free, then you can disassemble the remainder. And when you employed the thing back together, you have to sort of figure out how to support those chipped aims. So if they’re around a duct opening or something like that, you may have to kind of reach in there and beef it up with another bit of floor-beam material.
Now, you probably- let’s just say it’s- the floor’s rays are 24 inches on hub or 16 on midst. Yeah, you could probably use a piece of 2×6 or something like that simply between the storey joists, up close-fisted to the underside of the flooring itself. You wouldn’t have to introduced another entire beam in there. But you mostly need to support those loose ends like that. And the only way to so that is to sort of disassemble it, get that fix in there and then employed it back together again.
In expressions of the other seats that are loose, you need to figure out why that’s happening. There is a lot of settling that happens in a house that’s over a hundred years old, so it might just be that. I’d say it’s jolly unlikely for somebody to step through a storey unless there’s some definite weakening caused by insect damage or humidity damage.
TOM: Other than that, it might just be some shifting. And when you get to the third floor of an old live, you hear a lot more movement than you discover on the first floor, because everything sort of is accumulative, you know what I intend? And when you get up to the top there, there’s a lot more windows and entrances that are out of whack and storeys that are sloping.
So I don’t think it’s rare what you’re describing but you were supposed to – “youre supposed to” do some- a little bit of floor surgery here to try to figure out what’s going on and why it’s happening. It’s one of the charms of owning an age-old house.
JOEY: Right, right.
TOM: Let us know how you write out, Joey. Thanks so much for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
JOEY: Thank you.
TOM: Give us a call right now. Let’s talk about your home improvement projects, your summertime fix-ups. I did a time fix-up recently.
LESLIE: You did?
TOM: Our cushions on our wicker furniture for our front porch were examining mighty faded. But they were actually in good shape sort of structurally. They were still fluffy and everything but merely the material had faded.
So, I are caught up some spray paint that’s designed for upholstery. It’s generally be followed by those that do automobile repair but I was able to find the perfect color.
TOM: It was sort of like a pinkish-plum color. And I was able to spray-paint all of the cushions, which saved me at about hundreds of thousands of horses I would have spent on ordering brand-new cushions for two chairs and a couch.
LESLIE: I’ve never heard of this.
TOM: And it was great. Now, I will say it’s maybe a little stiffer than it was originally but it seeks incredible. And it was very inexpensive and only a cool nature to go.
LESLIE: What a great project.
Mark in Illinois is on the line with a foot question. What’s going on at your money crater?
MARK: I have a 10 -year-old house that, as with a lot of residences, the anchor around the foundation is settling. And I it is necessary positioned some fill-in to keep the rain from- or to drain the rainfall away from the house.
MARK: And I was wondering if there is a particular type of smorgasbord of clay to use to do that.
TOM: Yeah, it’s called “clean fill dirt.” Basically, it’s not rich, like topsoil, with a great deal of organic material in it. It’s very compactable. I always think it lookings various kinds of like the pitcher’s mound. It has that sort of medium-brown color to it and you can really pack it down well.
So, what you want to do is to sort of rig back some of the topsoil that’s there, compute the clean-living crowd clay, establish ascent with that. And if you want to prevent moisture questions, then I would slope it about 10 percent or about 6 inches over 4 feet- a 6-inch drop over 4 paws. Then on top of that, you can add topsoil and replant the grass or contribute mulch or whatever other groundcover. But clean load grime is all you need, Mark.
And I would be careful when purchasing this from the gravel garden, whoever is selling it, to make sure it doesn’t have glass in it. Ask about that. Make sure it’s really clean. Because sometimes, when you buy fill dirt, it has cracked glass in it and you don’t want that to happen.
MARK: Alright. And how far out from the foundation should you fill?
TOM: Well, you want to have that first 4 to 6 feet be sloping away. And then after that, it can have a amiable downgrade after that.
TOM: And just as important, since we’re talking about drainage publications, is to make sure your channels are clean and your downspouts are significantly spread apart. A plenty of ages, these sewer installers are happy to just turn them out about 2 feet at the bottom. You want it to go out 4 to 6 feet.
MARK: Oh, OK. Alright, alright. Well, expressed appreciation for. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, they say that one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. But try telling that to someone who has hundreds of pounds of waste on their hands after a home restoration project.
TOM: Yeah, well, the harrowing reality is that before you can add to the new, you’ve got to get rid of all the aged. And that can be a pretty expensive part of any reno enterprise. In fact, get rid of debris for a full house project can expense upwards of about 10 grand.
But the good news is that there are some easy ways to save money and do the right thing for the environmental issues, by selling or donating some of that clutter for reuse and responsibly recycling a great deal of what’s left.
LESLIE: Yeah, first of all, carpeting. You know, it’s ponderous, it’s unwieldy and can be a real pain in the butt to deal with, quite frankly. But if your carpet is in good shape- no discolours or attire spots- it can be donated.
Now, Habitat for Humanity operates nonprofit home betterment supermarkets, called Restores, where donated home progress goods are sold for charity. You can visit their website, Habitat.org, to find a ReStore in your neighborhood. And if the donation is impossible, there might be a carpet-reclamation facility near you. And that can help recycle that carpeting.
Check out CarpetRecovery.org for equipment in your neighbourhood. They’ll supply a delineate of the entire nation with carpet-recovery cores throughout.
TOM: Now, next, let’s talk about gizmoes. They can take up a lot of seat in a dumpster, which is expensive to hire. But one person’s obsolete appliance might be someone else’s vintage antique. So you might be able to originate some coin by selling your gadgets to an antique marketer or a restorer.
And if the device is of the nonfunctional potpourrus, you can also try selling it for scrap. Metal salvagers will usually pay around 10 cents per pound for appliances and will sometimes even put for pickup. The salvages in your range can be found online, as well.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. And you know what? Recycling for lumber, drywall or even asphalt shingles is also an option. If you have unused tongue-and-groove flooring, you can try taking it to a dealer or a kindnes resell store, like the ReStore. And wood-waste pushers might even be able to take your log scraps off of your hands.
And if you’re going to throw wood out, though, make sure it doesn’t include woodwork containing guide dye. There’s a risk for that in information that were covered before 1978.
Now, when it comes to the roof, asphalt shingles can often be recycled. Check out ShingleRecycling.org. You get some more info there. And you can sometimes get rid of mingled debris for a nominal reward by go it to a hub where recyclable wood, metals, concrete and even gypsum are sorted and sold.
TOM: Now, if you can’t find somebody to take the clutter off your hands and recycling is not an option, make sure you understand the regional patterns about what can and cannot be thrown out in your regular litter. There’s nothing worse than putting out a big pile of scum and not having it are caught up, possibly going a penalize and then having to move it all back to your home while you figure out another option. So, know you options and you will be good to go.
888-666-3974. We’re now, we’re good to go to help you with your reno projects. Give us a call right now.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Marie from Ontario on the line who’s got a ceiling-fan question. What’s going on at your money oppose?
MARIE: Well, actually, I’m in a one-floor ranch, OK? Three-bedroom ranch.
TOM: OK. Yep.
MARIE: No cellar. Precisely a good concrete crawlspace that’s insulated. No trouble down there. My furniture is down there. But I would like to know, satisfy, is it financially better off to use ceiling supporters and simply have the love on- my air-conditioner fan on- or run the air conditioner itself?
TOM: OK. I’m going to give you a different explanation than that, because I wouldn’t say that- the ceiling love are decorative, in my view, and they’re not necessarily an efficient way to move air through your mansion. But I’ll tell you what is and that’s called a “whole-house fan.”
So where you have a fan that’s mostly prepared – you said you have a ranch, so it’d be organized in the ceiling, probably of the dorm. And it will take air from the house and it will attract it up into the attic and then you grow the shows in your attic to make sure it can exhaust that air. And whenever it gets a little bit thick outside, a little awkward, what you do is you open a window, a couple of windows or doors at each end of the house and you run that whole-house fan. If you run it even at a low-grade race, it will gather a really nice breeze through the house. And what that does is it has the effect of delaying how much of your air conditioning you actually have to use.
I had one in a house that I owned when we firstly was married. And it was great because we would turn it on exactly a low-pitched hurry in the night and to bed. And by the time we fell asleep, the love set off and the night had come much cool and we were cozy for the whole night. So, I feel a whole-house fan, in terms of comfort, is a better option than celling fans.
And in terms of the air conditioner itself, I think if you were to limit the amount of time you used it, because you could trade off between the whole house and the ceiling fan, you’re going to save money on your A/ C, too.
MARIE: I implied my furnace fan itself , not expending the A/ C. My furnace fan.
TOM: Oh, your furnace follower? Yeah, furnace supporter definitely does not make sense to use. That’s a very expensive way to move air through your house.
MARIE: Oh, OK.
TOM: So, yep. Same answer. Different fan but same answer.
MARIE: So the best statu and the best solution would be to articulated the fan in the residence? Precisely make the breeze through that one?
TOM: Yep, a whole-house fan. And don’t confuse this with an attic fan. I’m not talking about the little, round silver pipe. This is a whole-house fan and it’s a quite vast footprint. It’s often maybe about 2 paw in diameter, maybe a little bit more depending on the immensity you buy. And it has a determined of baffles that are louvers that will lay flat. And when you turn them on, they gently opening hours and they draw a nice breeze through the house. It’s truly marvelous.
MARIE: Oh, wow. Well, thank you so much. I didn’t mean to be ignorant but( inaudible ). You did be called. So I simply love it. I adoration it.
TOM: Oh , no , no. You can’t maybe be.
MARIE: And I do listen to you any hazard I get. Any chance I get.
TOM: Alright. And I want to say that when we called you, “youve said”, “You do call beings back! How about that? ” Yes, we do.
MARIE: And I enormously have known that. Thank you. So it’s called a “whole- home entire- whole-house fan? ”
TOM: Whole house. A whole-house fan- w-h-o-l-e. A whole-house fan, yes.
MARIE: Whole house, like the whole thing. OK.
MARIE: Great. Well, God bless you. Thank you so much.
TOM: Alright, Marie. Good luck.
MARIE: Be safe. Bye-bye.
LESLIE: Well, if you’d like to build a raised garden wall to highlight your landscaping, probably the easiest way to do that is with retaining-wall blocks. Now, they’re modular and they’re going to allow you to simply stack them to create that retaining wall really easily. You can highlight a tree, create a developed garden berthed or even construct out a larger wall to help you level a sloping yard.
TOM: Yeah. There are really just about four steps to the project. First off, you’ve got to prepare the site. So you was necessary to mark the field. You can do that, say, with spray paint. There’s actually special spray paint that’s really inexpensive. You see it used to mark off streets but you can mark off areas of lawn with it, as well, to create a trench that’s about a hoof wide. So observe it out.
Now, in terms of the depth, when you start to dig out start with the border. And if the stone’s going to be, say, 3 or 4 trends towering, then you’re going to want to go maybe a couple inches- 3, 4 inches- below score in terms of the depth.
Now, next, you’ve got to prepare the base. So for a small wall, you want to put about an inch of beach, stage it out. If it’s a larger one, you can use a paver mingle. And then use a 2×4 to kind of grade it out and make it nice and flat and then check that with the level. All the work is in the getting ready.
The fun part is last. You exactly lay the stones. You start at the lowest object, level each one and then stagger the joints. If you need to cut the stones, you can use a mini-sledge hammer to chisel. Score that text firstly and retain hammering until it transgresses. And by the way, buy extra stones because you’ll consequently mess some up. I know I do all the time.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you know what? This kind of project used to be a lot harder. But these retaining-wall blocks certainly are easy to work with and they’ve got a natural-looking, split-face design. And it can really look great in any yard.
Now, they’re designed to be modular and they come in six widths, so they’re going to work well for straight or arched walls.
TOM: If you’ve got an outdoor-living project you want to take on, give us a request, right now, with your home increase question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright, Josh in Nevada announced: “I’m going to paint the lumber flooring on my screened-in porch. Do you have a recommendation for what type of finish I should use? Too, how many coats of paint should I apply? It has no paint on it now. Just old lumber that I can sand if needed.”
TOM: Yes, I do, Josh. In fact, it’s very important that in such situations, when you are painting a floor outside or inside, that you do not use a latex paint.
And here’s why. While latex coats have amazing characters for just about any other surface, if you have a surface that’s going to take a lot of abrasion, a great deal of reward, a great deal of slipping of furniture around or paces, it merely doesn’t stand up the space a solvent-based or oil-based concoction would.
Now, I would recommend in such cases, since it’s never been covered before, that first you devote it a very good cleaning and a very good sanding. Now, you can do that by hand, you can do it with a sander. But you want to make sure that you’re not leaving any liberate timber behind. Because since it’s not had depicted on it, I’m concerned that the upper sort of surface, the fibers of the lumber would have broken down from UV exposure. And you want to make sure that you get rid of those so you have a nice clean, dry surface when you’re done.
Next, you’re going to want to prime it and again, you want to use an oil-based primer for that. And then I would place probably two hairs of a topcoat storey finish on that. Again, oil-based. And if you do that claim, I think you’re going to find that that floor-paint job will previous you a good 10 to 15 years.
LESLIE: Alright. That’s a good project, too.
Next up, we’ve got a post from Jessie who writes, “What is the better way to check a Freon leak: a colour research or an electronic device? I’ve had about 5 pounds of Freon leak over the last 9 months. My home warranty plan refuses to send out another fellowship to check for the divulge utilizing the color experiment. They say,’ Wait 60 dates and see if the seep can be found.’ What do you intimate? ”
TOM: Yeah. Because in 60 eras, the summer will be over.
TOM: Ah, soldier, “its like”- this is sort of poking the bear with me on a couple of genuinely sore issues.
First off, you are not the best person to be searching for a refrigerant leakage which, by the way, may or may not be Freon, depending on the age of your air-conditioning compressor.
Rather than are searching for actual leakage, I would check for performance. This is something that you can do, Jessie, and here’s how. You ought to be assessing the temperature of the air inside the house at two locations, when the air conditioning is on, of course. Measure the temperature of the aura at the return duct and then measure it again at a supply pipe. And choose one that’s near the aura handler so it’s a neat, strong overflow. We’re looking for the difference in temperature between those two points. It should be in the 12 – to 20 -degree array. If the differential is less than that, you are well within your claim to involve a amend because your air conditioning is not cooling properly. And in fact, it’s running too, which is driving up your electrical cost and not doing the job. So I would check that.
Next, as far as that warranty company’s refusal to address the problem, it’s regrettably very typical. And I can only propose you be very, very persistent with them and ever ask to discuss the matter with a administrator. So good luck with that project. You know, they sell you these assurances but they genuinely don’t want to pay out unto them. And “youve been” sometimes have to be persistent to get what you deserve.
LESLIE: Alright, Jessie. Good luck with that and I hope you have a nice, cool summertime ahead of you.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on a beautiful time day. We hope it’s lovely where you are. If you are in the home improvement zone, we live there, 24/7, and we’re standing by to help you with those questions about those projects. Reach out at any time at MoneyPit.com or call your question in to 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If we’re not in the studio, we will call you back the next time we are.
But for now, that’s all the time we have. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
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