In this escapade …
If you’ve been enjoying a garden-variety harvest this summer and would like to extend the goodness of all time long, perpetuating your fresh veggies is the way to do it. We’ll step you through 3 options for preserving your glean! Plus…
It’s a great time of year for outdoor assignments and if you want to step up your infinite, we’ve went gratuities on the easiest and most affordable acces to create grill environs, fervour pits, benches and more by simply stacking blocks.Sidewalks can get slippery, but not if you discuss those sidewalks with a simple coating. Tips on a concrete therapy that protects you and loved ones from dies, coming up.Temperatures are nice now, but in a few months, you’ll want nothing less than to have to bundle up, head outdoors and deal with a residence better question in the dead of winter. We’ve got a few easy fix-ups you can take on now that can potentially save you a major repair beset last-minute.
Plus, provide answers to your home improvement questions about, hiring an engineer, roof underlayment products, eliminating chipmunks, energy saving windows, installing attic insulation, relocating downspouts to eliminate flooding.
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And what are you doing on this warm August weekend? If you are thinking about working on a project around your house, I’d recommend you work inside your live with your A/ C on, because it’s getting ridiculously hot.
LESLIE: Very true.
TOM: Unless you start at the super-early part of the morning, you can get something done. I went out to the gym today and I was out of the house about 6:00 a.m. And I ascertained there was a guy decoration his thickets at about 6:15 in the morning. I’m like, “That guy’s smart.” He go up early to get this done because …
LESLIE: Yeah, except the neighbors are mad.
TOM: And actually, it was electric shears. It wasn’t genuinely that bad.
LESLIE: Wasn’t too loud?
TOM: No. But I represent by the time it gets to around 8: 00 or 9:00, it’s almost too hot to do those outside projects. But if you’ve got a project that you’re do or are projected to do and you’ve got questions, well, that’s why we’re here. We’re here to help cheer you on, give you some tips-off, some advice on how to get it done as easy as possible. But you’ve got to help yourself first by holler us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or announcing your question to MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s show, if you’ve been experiencing a garden reap the summer months and you’d like to extend that goodness all time long, continuing your fresh veggies is the best way to do simply that. We’re going to walk you through three options for preserving your collect, in time a bit.
LESLIE: And it’s a great time of year for outdoor assignments if you want to step up your gap. We’ve got some tips on the most wonderful and most affordable behaviors that you can create grill borders, flame excavations, benches, all these wonderful outdoor assignments simply by stacking blocks.
TOM: And with all of the water that we’re spraying on our sidewalks or sprinkling over the kitty edges, sidewalks and patios are able to obtain moderately slick. But if you discuss those gaps with a simple coating, you can definitely increase the safety factor. We’re going to have gratuities on how to apply that coating and get those faces protected, in a bit.
LESLIE: But first, The Money Pit is all about what you guys are working on. So sacrifice us a request, let us know what projects are happening at your house and we’ll give you a hand. We’re happy to hear all about it. We even want to see photos, so don’t forget to post them on Money Pit’s Facebook page. Just got to get us. We’d love to lend a hand.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Don in Illinois is on the line with a organization question. What’s going on at your fund excavation?
DON: Yes. I’ve got an old farmhouse. They started building it back in the 1800 s and the foundation is red brick on a crawlspace. And it’s sinking in one area real bad. And I had a guy tell me that I- because I can’t dig a statu tier because there’s an old organisation back here, likewise. He was indicated that I could rain a large pad, go underneath the house and come out and make it like a sidewalk along the edge of the house and then pour- actually pour- the wall up as high as I could and then maybe either employ, as a last row, a block in. Is that possible to do something like that?
TOM: Maybe, maybe not. You’re talking about a major structural piece of work here, Don. And the problem with this is- I’m going to presume you’re not a licensed structural designer. If you start doing this kind of work on your own and then sometime in the future you want to sell this house and you’ve not had the right kind of professionals involved in this kind of a major reparation, that’s going to be a huge red flag. That could make it very difficult for you to sell the house.
I spent 20 years as a professional home inspector, Don. And when I hear houses like this that had these kind of issues, I ever suggested that the homeowner expend a little of fund to have an engineer look at it and intend a specific repair for such a situation. Because this path, when you go to sell the house and if it becomes an issue, you can show that you had a professional recall it and tell you exactly what to do and then you took action on that. And you are eligible to even have them come back and sort of certify that it was done right. Then you end up having sort of a pedigree on the quality of that restore, because this is not something to do yourself and get wrong. You could make it worse and you can devalue your house in a very major way.
DON: That’s what I was actually pretty wondering. It resonated kind of farfetched to me, in a way, and I was just like, “Well, I’ve been listening to you guys. I’m going to give it a shot, give you a call and picture what you guys have got to say.”
TOM: Yeah. We’re glad you did and that will get you on the road to recovery, OK?
DON: OK. I know a couple architects. I’ll see if I can get one out here. I regard the information.
TOM: You’re welcome, Don. Good luck with that job. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Judy in Missouri is on the line with a roofing question. How can we help you today?
JUDY: Yes, I was wondering if you had ever heard of- had a roof fixing a few years ago and it’s been spilling ever since. They abused what they called Tam-Shield. It’s a synthetic underlayment.
TOM: Yeah, mm-hmm.
JUDY: And it’s plastic and they used that instead of felt paper.
TOM: Yeah, right. It’s synthetic. And it’s actually an updated to standard, 15 -pound felt newspaper. And it’s actually better than consuming standard find paper under a roof.
The reason that your ceiling is seeping now is probably not because of the Tam-Shield; it’s probably because of something that got it wrong with the mend. But I don’t think it would have been the underlayment, because that’s actually pretty good stuff.
How is it leaking, Judy? Tell me about the leak.
JUDY: Well, we really don’t know. It comes through in our lavatory and we get up in the attic and we can see drips. But they can’t seem to pinpoint it. They worked on it several times and they just can’t get it to go away.
TOM: Alright. Usually, if your ceiling is disclosing above your bathroom- there’s a tube that goes through the ceiling right there and up through the roof and it’s the plumbing-vent pipe. And right around that volcano pipe, there’s like a rubber boot that seals that tube between the tube and the roof itself. And then there’s flashing that proceeds around that. That’s the most common place for a roof reveal when you have it leak right above a bathroom.
Now, a great deal of terms, contractors will try to sort of tar that in place but that’s a bad suggestion. What I would recommend is to take out the plumbing-vent flashing. And you can do that easily by removing a few shingles in that area.
Roof shingles are actually pretty easy to disassemble if you know kind of a joke of the market. I like to do it with a flat saloon that you can slip up under the roof shingle, find the claw and sort of pry it from side to side and it’ll pop right out. And then you replace that plumbing-vent flashing and positioned it back all going together and make sure you put everything in the right order so it- the roofing lays on top of the twinkle. That often stops that leak.
JUDY: But you- but leave the vent tubes there?
TOM: Oh, yeah. The show piping is there for an important reason. You’re going to start having problems evening your toilet and all your sags are going to start to gurgle if you make that out. But oust the plumbing-vent flashing there, OK?
JUDY: OK. Well, thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Judy. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: James in Virginia is on the line with a ceiling-fan question. What’s going on at your coin excavation?
JAMES: I live in a 1986 two-story ranch and we do not have overhead lighting in any of the bedrooms and there’s no lighting fixtures. And we want to add ceiling love, so I was wondering how difficult it is necessary to do that in the bedrooms.
TOM: It’s not terribly difficult but it’s not exceedingly easy either. I would say that it would be very easy for an electrician to do that because they have the tools necessary to get the wiring where it needs to go. It’s kind of hard for a DIYer to do that.
And the other important thing about a ceiling supporter is you need to make sure you use the right type of electrical alliance in that ceiling so that “youve had” some patronize on that fan. Because it gets very heavy and the committee is also throbs sometimes. So you need to have the right connection for the follower to the ceiling and of course, the wire has to be in place.
Now, electricians can fish cables through there. There’s a couple of tricks of the trade that “theyre using”. They have these kind of long, skinny fiberglass rods that can be run in the seat between ceiling joists to run wires where they need to be. But what I would do is if you’re thinking about maybe doing this in a couple of apartments, I would sort of pile those enterprises together. Because there’s sort of a mobilization overhead when you hire a pro for a small project like that. And maybe try to get all of your electrical toil done at the same time.
Now, with a 1986 residence, you might also want to find out if you’ve got ground-fault circuit interrupters protecting the bathroom and the kitchen shops. That would be another easy thing to add to that to-do list that will protect you from shocks.
JAMES: OK. Well, thank you very much. I relish your help and I love your register. Listen to it all the time.
TOM: Yeah. Good luck with that projection and with all the work you’re doing to your new house. Call us back anytime, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Well, if you’ve been enjoying a garden reap the summer months , now really is a good time to learn about natures that you are eligible to retain those veggies into the cold weather ahead. And there are three spaces that you can do that.
Now, first and foremost, the most simple method is to simply freeze your collect. Now, you might have to have a big freezer or perhaps a second one, depending on how big of a drag you’ve gardened this season. But when you’re doing something, you need to think about the feeling wish when it comes to freezing a vegetable over, you know, canning it or precisely munching it fresh. So now, frozen corn definitely smacks different than canned corn.
And all you need to do to freeze these veggies is a pot to blanch that veggie in, freezer pouches or even a freezer receptacle. And you can look online to find different times for blanching those fresh fruits and veggies, because it’s a certain amount of time for each genu. But we could go on forever as to that so you are eligible to exactly Google a graph there.
TOM: Now, the next nature to preserve is called “canning.” And canning food preservation involves mostly curing menu in containers with special lids. Getting started is pretty simple. Most parties are going to start out with water-bath canners and canning high-acid menus like marinades and salsas and jellies and jams. Low-acid nutrients- like green beans, corn, soup or meat- require a pressure canner, so there’s a little bit more of an investment in equipment. But neither method is hard; it just takes some coming be applicable to and understanding the differences between the high-pitched and the low-acid foods.
LESLIE: Now, other options is dehydrating the menu. Now, dehydration of fresh fruits and vegetables really is a great way to preserve them and it helps you save infinite. Now, when you dehydrate nutrient, it’s going to shrink and then you can store it in an airtight receptacle. The thing you have to remember, though, is you need to rehydrate that vegetable with spray when you’re ready to use them. And then you’re good to go. And you can use your oven but to get it on right, you really do need a dehydrator, which isn’t too expensive because it’s really all about a lower temperature at consistent amount of hour and removing the moisture, which you can get in your oven, but it’s- it takes a little practice.
TOM: Yeah. And formerly you start canning and freezing and branch out beyond the basics, you could do soups and meatballs and chili and chicken. I’ll tell you what we’re going to give a try this year and that is tomatoes. We have an abundance of tomatoes.
LESLIE: Are you going to make a sauce?
TOM: I’m not quite sure what products we’re going to do. Probably sauce, maybe some salsa with the tomatoes. But we embed the tomatoes with the idea being that they would sort of come in gradually across the season. But now, is again, we got a huge harvest; they’re proliferating everywhere now and we’re just starting to get used to eating them. So we’re going to end up with one tonne of tomatoes. I dislike to throw them away.
And I haven’t given a lot away and I’ve done that in past years. But I think we’re going to try to canning now because we’re spending so much more time at home. It might be the right time to do just that.
LESLIE: Yeah. So, we have some good friends in town who are Italian and germinate one tonne of tomatoes. And at the end of every summer, they have a big pasta sauce-making party. And if you’re invited over to go, you assist in all of the process of fixing the sauce, jarring it, prolonging it. I convey it’s an all-day affair with the biggest pot I’ve ever seen in my life to reach sauce. And it’s all outside. But the bonus is if you voluntary for the day, virtually, you go home with a knot of sauce.
TOM: You take home your sauce?
LESLIE: So it’s thoroughly worth it.
TOM: Awesome. Of trend, if it was my Italian family, there’d be 30 people in the kitchen and we can’t do that anymore. So, I’m afraid it’s going to be a …
LESLIE: No, they do- it’s outside.
TOM: Oh, it’s outside. I see.
LESLIE: We’ve always done it outside at our friends’ house. They articulated a big burner outside with the hugest pot.
TOM: But you’ve got to maintain your social intervals, you are well aware, genealogy assemblies or not. But good tip. Genuinely fun thing to try. And if you’ve enjoyed having a garden, so many more kinfolks have been gardening this year and attaining other opportunities to improve their home’s seats. Canning is clearly the next step.
LESLIE: Linda in Ohio, you’ve went The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
LINDA: Well, I had an age-old garage rip down, so I had a prior cement pad. And I had a steel building put up. I have gaps now from- the sword build is not- the metal is more like a fluted- it’s got a little ripple in it? And where it matches the floor and they kept a 2×4 locate around the inside to screw the metal to it, well, I’m getting chipmunks in there and everything like that in between. What can I use to seal it but still keep it so when the cold weather comes, it expands like it was necessary?
TOM: You must be having some pretty big gaps there if the chipmunks are getting into that.
TOM: How much seat are we talking about?
LINDA: Some places it’s not very big at all. But some it’s like perhap 2 or 3 inches high.
TOM: Oh, wow.
LINDA: Because the cement pad was not really leveled or throughout the years, too, it could have sunk down in certain areas. I don’t know whether to applied another council …
TOM: Yeah. So, listen, if you’ve came 2 or 3 inches of gaps, you’re going to have to add some additional sort of siding-type textiles to cover that gap. You could actually use additional galvanized metal and use it to fit in that space.
If you have smaller divergences, those could be filled with, say, spray-foam insulation or you could use steel wool. Sometimes, when we’re trying to plug up little chinks, especially when it comes to rodent prevention, I’ll have folks kept steel coat in there that “theyre not” apt to ruminate through. But you can’t have a gap that large-scale and not expect those types of animals to get by.
LINDA: Awesome. I’ll try that: the sword hair and the foam.
TOM: Good luck with that activity, Linda. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: David in Massachusetts is on the line and is installing an outdoor shower to a floor. How can we help you?
DAVID: We’re having a collected deck put on the back of our residence. It’s going to be about 22 inches off the field. And it’s going to be 12 x30-ish. Anyhow, there’s going to be a shower along the- about halfway down the period. And it’ll be up against the house.
And I was actually pretty curious whether the spray is just going to go through the floorboards into the AZEK material. So it’s not going to rot anything but- and pressure-treated floor joists. So, the bottom of the flooring joists will be about 10, 12 inches off the grind. And I didn’t know whether the sea coming from the shower going down should be diverted away from the house a little bit or if it doesn’t matter.
TOM: So, is this going to be kind of like a coast shower, just for sort of quick showering off when you come back from the beach or the reservoir?
TOM: So, you’re not going to be taking real long showers out there. It’s certainly- the deck’s going to be slippery because of this. But underneath, what you might want to do is just put in a drain using sort of a stone locate and then a perforated drainpipe. And then feed that- tar that up away from the house so that water that get in there doesn’t end up back into the basement or crawlspace, depending on what your structure is. But since you’re not putting a great deal of irrigate there, I wouldn’t worry too much about it. I judge, generally, those outside showers are pretty quick.
Is it going to be a shower stall or is it just going to be an open shower where you’re standing on the floor to wash off?
DAVID: No, it’s a shower stall. Actually, there’d be a little dressing area and a little shower area.
TOM: Yeah. If you’re going to do that, why don’t you exactly put a drain in it? I represent if you’re going to go with the whole stalling- I thought it was just going to be kind of a shower sticking out of the back wall of the members of this house. Put a duct in it and race the tube under the deck and merely remove it away from the house somewhere.
DAVID: Are you talking about place a shower flooring in?
TOM: Yeah, yeah, pan- the shower pan. Yep. If it’s going to have a stall, you might as well have a pan. Sit it right on top of the deck and then introduced a depletion in it and run it right out. That’s what I’d do.
DAVID: OK. It may be a little late for that now because they’ve previously gone- all the joists are in place and we’re ready for the …
TOM: Well , no. The joists becomes available, that’s OK because it’s going to sit on top. So that shouldn’t affect anything. Just a little of plumbing work is what you need here.
DAVID: Alright. Well, I can discuss the matter with the contractor.
TOM: Alright. Good luck. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Steve in Pennsylvania needs some help with a building project.
I love that you’re strategy and you’ve asked us to help. What’s going on, Steve?
STEVE: Yeah. I have a small summer cabin at Lake Tahoe and the deck was built in the early 60 s. And the step-up from the deck into the cabin is a stretch. So I was wanting to leant a squat or a land or step, or what it is you want to call it, on top of the deck to help reach the step-up into the cabin a little less severe. So, I was looking at maybe something about 54 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches tall but I didn’t- I don’t know how deep to conclude that step.
TOM: When you say deep to perform the stair, you necessitate what’s the stride profundity when you put your foot on it?
TOM: So, what are you going to build it out of?
STEVE: I was just going to put in wood. Everything else is wood up there.
TOM: So I would just use a 2×12 for that pace. Why not make a nice, large-scale, deep step? You could use a 2×10. Most steps are narrower than that. But I conceive a 2×12, which is 111/2 inches, would be fine.
STEVE: So 12 inches deep from the leading edge of the compartment doorway to the edge of the deck.
TOM: So, it’s just one step basically between the deck and the hut doors. Is that remedy, that you want to put in?
TOM: So I would make it a 2×12. Why not? It’s about 111/2 inches deep and that’ll be fine.
STEVE: Well, thank you very much for your assistance. You have a great day.
LESLIE: Well, if you’d like to improve your outdoor space by adding an outdoor kitchen, a volley cavity, a grill pen, planters or even a workbench, there’s a really easy way that you can do that and it’s by using a product announced RumbleStone. Now, RumbleStone is made by Pavestone and they’re rustic-looking stones that come in project gears. And you simply stack them together, like a LEGO project, in a predetermined pattern to build all sorts of popular outdoor features.
Now, the idea of using a modular block scheme obligates it fast and cheap for you to upgrade your backyard seat, with amenities like an outdoor kitchen, a volley quarry, a bench. And they can be truly beautiful. And you can also use them in place of a traditional paver to do a project like a patio or even a wall or a scenery border.
TOM: Yeah, I enjoy the RumbleStone design. It’s a really attractive addition to your outdoor-living space. And if you’d like to learn about assignments like this, there’s even a step-by-step video of a beautiful outdoor kitchen. It’s transcended with a QUIKRETE concrete countertop and it’s available online. Just Google “RumbleStone BBQ project.” “RumbleStone BBQ project.” You’ll find it straight off and you’ll get those instructions.
And if you’d like to learn a little bit more about all the projects that you can build with Pavestone’s RumbleStone, inspect Pavestone.com. And look for the RumbleStone videos for the purposes of the How-To Guide tab.
LESLIE: Margaret, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
MARGARET: Yes. I’d like to know what I can do about my popcorn ceilings. They’re getting dirty. They’re 20 years old.
LESLIE: Well, there’s a couple of mixtures. Do you like them and want to keep them? Or you only are to be able to not inspect so dingy?
MARGARET: I would not rather- I would not like to keep them no more.
LESLIE: Alright. Well, generally, with popcorn ceiling, if it’s rightfully a popcorn ceiling and not a texturized stucco, what you can do to remove it is you can get one of those garden sprayers or those light-duty paint sprayers. Put water in it and you scatter the ceiling to sort of saturate the popcorn. And then you take a wide spackle blade- as wide as the one you can find- and you sort of gently start rind away at the popcorn ceiling- at the popcorn quality, I should say, from the ceiling.
And that generally does a pretty good job. Because if you’ve ever tried to paint it, if you don’t have the right roller, when it gets wet, it starts to peel away from the ceiling. So by getting it wet, you’re being able to remove it. You merely want to make sure, with your blade or your scraper, that you’re not burrowing into the drywall below it. Because keep in mind whatever’s left underneath there is what you’re going to depict and then see.
MARGARET: OK. How do I go about scavenging if I decide to just go ahead and stop this?
LESLIE: Well, you wouldn’t clean it. You would cover over it.
MARGARET: Oh , no. No.
TOM: Yeah, there’s actually a special roller for that. It’s like a slitted roller. It’s a exceedingly thick-skulled roller that’s got apertures in it and it’s designed to squeeze the decorate into that popcorn locality. And that’s exactly why I would do it. I would coat it. It’s going to look a lot better than emptying it. You simply can’t clean-living that stuff. There’s nothing cleanable about a popcorn ceiling. You’ve got to paint over it.
Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Heading to Nebraska now where Ellie is on the line with a space question. What can we do for you today?
ELLIE: I’m replacing a window in the lower level of our home and I was wondering if you had an opinion as to what would be the best material for the window. Vinyl? Wood? Composite?
TOM: What kind of a space do you have there now? Is it a standard sort of double-hung window?
ELLIE: No. It’s actually five openings in one. It’s 9 foot by 3 foot.
TOM: Oh, that’s a big job. Yeah. My firstly level would be that you need to make sure you’re buying an energy-efficient window. Because with a space that big, you want to make sure that you’re abusing well-insulated glass. So I was able to buy one that was ENERGY STAR-rated.
TOM: And you want to make sure that the glass is going to have a low-emissivity coating or a low-E coating, because what that does is that wonders the sunlight back away so that it doesn’t overheat your mansion. Otherwise, you’re going to hot that gap up like a big, old-time greenhouse with a 9-foot window.
In terms of the material itself, I think outside the house, you demand something that’s terribly, very weatherproof, like vinyl. And inside the house, depending on the window you buy, it can be wood or it could be vinyl. So if you look at a window like an Andersen window, they have beautiful windows that are timber on the inside and vinyl on the outside. It kind of gives you the best of both world-wides. But again, there are many different types of makes out there. The most important thing is not as much the material but the certification, to make sure that it’s an efficient window that’s going to perform well for you and last a long, long time.
ELLIE: We will look for those power ratings then.
TOM: Alright. Good luck. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Kevin in Rhode Island has a question about saving a cellar bake. What can we do for you?
KEVIN: I removed the downspout extension that took the water apart, maybe, 3 feet from the foundation.
KEVIN: And I changed it, because someone said it didn’t look good. I replaced it with a cement kind of water carry-away, which is 2 hoofs. And I noticed I have some irrigate in the cellar. So, it’s extremely dampen. It’s mute is what it is.
KEVIN: So I positioned a little crushed rock at the end of the propagation, hoping that that would perhaps help out on the water disbanding down or something.
TOM: Yeah, that’s not going to do anything except prevent erosion. If wishes to clear your cellar drier, you’ve got to move the sweat away from it. You were on the right track with the downspout extension.
Now, if you don’t want to see that, you might want to explore the possibility of direct your chairwoman into a solid PVC pipe and flowing that subterranean. But it has to be pitched and then removed somewhere. So it depends on kind of the shape of your belonging as to whether or not you could acquire that happen.
But I would rather appreciate those downspouts diversified away from the foundation wall than be addressed with the sea that can accumulate in the vault as a result.
KEVIN: Good idea.
TOM: Alright, Kevin. Good luck with that activity. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, just imagine that you’re walking into your live from the driveway or up the sidewalk. And of course, as we all do, your hands are full, you’ve got kids’ backpacks or groceries. Everything’s in your weapons. You’re exactly overloaded and then bam, you slip and fail with the kids’ stuff and the eggs and the milk. Now it’s all over the sidewalk.
You know, concrete skin-deeps do get slippery and I’m not talking about merely in the winter months. They often get covered with a thin seam of moss or algae in the summertime that utters them super slippery and even so all year round.
TOM: And that’s why we’ve get gratuities on how to update your sidewalks and driveways to manufacture those skin-deeps slip-resistant, in today’s Pro Project brought forward by HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Well, to cut the chances of tumbling on your own turf, you can have a pro apply a treatment that’s designed to prevent dusks to those concrete skin-deeps. Now, it’s called a “textured-acrylic concrete coating.” And it is not simply accommodates a non-slip finish to those concrete faces, it does hand it a new-look finish, changing it from that dull, aged concrete, as well.
TOM: Yeah, the textured-acrylic concrete varnish is actually a very heavy-duty resin that adheres very well to any concrete skin-deep. So we’re talking about stairs or sidewalks or patios or driveways or pool surrounds. And if your dwelling has a handicap ramp, it’s a great way to improve the safety of that face, as well.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor. They genuinely have the best regional pros for any dwelling service.
TOM: That’s right. It doesn’t matter what the project is, they make it fast and easy to find top local pros for your project.
LESLIE: Plus , now they give clear, up-front pricing on over a hundred daily projects. To is starting, merely download the HomeAdvisor app today.
Jeff in Wisconsin, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JEFF: I want to add some isolation into the attic of my old-time, aged mansion that I just bought last year. And I don’t know which nature I should go with either the release load or the batt. I want to do it myself to save money but the liberate crowd- I’m kind of uncomfortable with all the weird conduits and outlet cartons and stuff that are up there in the attic. It’s a walk-up attic and we have a little bit of storage area up there. I don’t know if stapling the rollings up against the roof is- I don’t know what’s going to give me the best R-value and time value and coin appraise, plainly, for …
TOM: Alright. So first and foremost, let’s talk about where the insularity croaks. This attic is unfinished, correct? It’s not a sleeping cavity, is it?
JEFF: Yes. Correct.
TOM: So the attic is not- the separation, in this case, does not go up against the rafters. The attic- the isolation goes on the storey, what you would call the “floor of the attic” when you’re standing in it.
TOM: Now, is there a timber floor in the entire attic face now?
JEFF: Not the entire attic , no.
TOM: There’s not? So it’s open lights there, right? You can look down into the- picture the ceiling below?
JEFF: No. It’s got the moves in between there. But like I said, we have a storage area, which is the center of it that has plywood down on top.
TOM: OK. That’s actually perfect. So, here’s what I think you should do. I would buy unfaced fiberglass batts and just like the word says, unfaced aims no article face , no vapor-barrier face. It’s just plain, old fiberglass batts.
Now, you lay these down horizontal to the floor joist, so not parallel to but vertical. And you would lay these in the entire attic flooring except for the orbit that you want to reserve for storage.
So this is an easy way to kind of, say, doubled or more than double the amount of insulation that’s there but still saving that storage infinite. Because once you gave this down, it’s actually going to be higher than the thickness of the floor joist and you can’t crush insulation. If you suppress it, it doesn’t work. So that’s why it has to sit on top. So if you were to articulated like 10 or 12 -inch batts down like that, you would have a dramatic increase in energy efficiency.
JEFF: Woah. That’s not a bad idea. I like that. OK. Great. Thanks so much for your help.
TOM: You’re very welcome, Jeff. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Charles from Long Beach, New York has written in who says, “I live in a barrier-island sandbar. The live was built on a plaster slab. Now, the slab has cracked and has resulted in an unequal floor peaking in the middle at some points. What alternatives do I have? ”
TOM: Well, if you live on a obstacle island on a home …
LESLIE: Tom, such areas was devastated from Sandy, so he’s probably on all-new build. And who knows what happened to the ground?
TOM: Yeah, I know. Well, we don’t know that it’s a brand-new structure. I want it was possible to the age-old improve. The thing is that with that kind of a- with clay, you’ve got to be built on- it’s got to be a pier system that’s reinforced. So even if it’s a slab on point, which I disbelieve, it’s got to have a pier system so the concrete isn’t basically sitting on the soil; it’s being subsidizing by heaps that are in the grime. If it’s an aged live, yeah, you may be in that situation but anything that’s rehabilitated would be up.
I tell you, in this case, irrespective, Charles, I would definitely have an expert look at it because I can’t give you advice. Simply to say that that is a big concern when you’re in an unstable grunge range like I believe you are. So I would hire one of maybe three different professionals. A structural designer would be my first choice; a very experienced, regional, professional home inspector would be my second option; and then maybe an architect would be my third. But you need expert advice to figure out what’s going on with this place. Not all crannies compel replacing or reparation but you need to know what you’re dealing with now so you can plan accordingly.
LESLIE: Yeah. And Charles, make sure you do it because you live in a slice of paradise on Long Island. And I’m not far from you and I tend to come to your place because I adoration it so much better. So fix it up and remain forever.
TOM: Now, there’s a fourth hand-picked. He could always invite you to come over.
LESLIE: True, genuine, true.
TOM: Well, temperatures may be nice now but in a few months, you’ll want nothing less than to have to bundle up, head outdoors and be addressed with a residence betterment question in the dead of wintertime. To cure, we’ve got a few easy fix-ups you can get done now that’ll save you potentially a major fixing inconvenience later. And that’s coming up in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
Something must have to do with spray here.
LESLIE: Well, of course. Leaks are probably the worst. You know, a water-leak emergency, like pipes that freeze and transgress, are very common when it’s cold out. So now is the time that you need to locate and description all of those important irrigate valves. And that includes the main water valve, your sea heater’s valve and hose and ice-maker valves. Now, knowing where those are and what they do will spare you major mar and beset if cold weather strikes.
Next, you’ve got to make sure that your ceiling is leak-free. After the next big twilight rainstorm, give a flashlight, head up into the attic and inspect neighbourhoods around your chimney, plumbing, duct pipings, anything this kind of goes out through the roof or where divisions of the roof meet up. Make sure- look there that there’s no divulges happening. Then is moving forward and give some binoculars and inspect all of those same distinguishes from on top, scanning too for missing shingles, loose blink, anything that might need to be replaced.
Next up, you want to look at handrails. Go around the house. Any sort of handrail that’s loose, that can actually result in an emergency. So you want to make sure that inside and outside, handrails are secure. Repair any release railings, uprights, spindles. You have to make sure that all of those portions are additional sturdy if outdoors because when the condition goes icy, it can really cause some trouble.
Also, think about your chimney. You want to caulk that chimney crown. It’s a masonry coating that leads over the top of the chimney. And it can protect against water, which is extra risky over these wintertime months when it can cause chimney bricks and organizations to freeze, break and even fall. So some prep work now is going to save you a lot in the long run.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the programme, with the garage getting so much wear and tear, it compiles impression to give the floors a protective varnish that can do double-duty and also beautify the infinite. But what alternatives do you have to create a floor that inspections good, stands up and is stain-resistant? We’ll have those asks on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to get it on alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Creation, Inc. No parcel of this transcript or audio record may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Product, Inc .)
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