In this chapter …
Now is a good time to plan end of season projects to set you up for the jug months ahead. We’ve came 4 projects that will save you season, money and help avoid costly restores when colder condition prevails.
Plus, garages get a workout in the Fall and Winter, which is why now is a great time to fix up the garage flooring. We’ll have tips-off on the best way to get this done using epoxy paint.Painting the exterior is a job that needs to get done every 5 to 10 years and if your house prepared for that projection, we’ll share a few pro house painting tips help.Can you imagine a carefree summer night in your backyard, fireflies dancing around, and you’re watching your favorite movie? You can, by building your own backyard movie screen! We’ll tell you how!
Plus, answers to your residence improvement questions about, siding installation, replacing a picture window, repair basement walls to eliminate irrigate coming in
Do you have a home improvement or decoration question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And we now enabling you to with your home improvement and decor campaigns. Our mission is to educate, to arouse, to help you build some confidence on development projects you guys would like to get done and to kind of pretty much simply navigate you on how to get it done, get it done once, get it done right so you don’t have to get it done again. But your job is to first help yourself by picking up the phone, because this is a participation show. We welcome your calls at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s program, as summer hot starts to fade , now is a very good time to plan for end-of-summer projects, various kinds of set you up for the cooler months onward. We’re going to walk you through five projects that’ll save you duration, fund and help you avoid some potentially very expensive restores when the cold weather arrives.
LESLIE: Plus, your garage sure gets a workout in the autumn and the winter, which is why now is a great time to fix up that garage floor. We’re going to have some gratuities on the most efficient way that you can get this done through epoxy paint.
TOM: And speaking of painting, you are well aware, painting the exterior undertaking- Leslie, that’s a undertaking that you’ve got to do every, say, 5 to 10 years. But lover, it is not one you looked forward to receiving. I make it’s a lot of work.
But more and more parties are taking on the job themselves, so we figure why not help with a few pro house-painting tips-off to rapidity that job along?
LESLIE: And can you imagine a breezy time night in your backyard, with fireflies dancing around and you and your family watching your favorite movie? This has definitely been a big trend in this pandemic summertime. Everybody’s screening outdoor movies, so we’re going to help you build your own backyard movie screen.
Plus, we’re going to help one listener get started with the right tools, because we’re giving away the Arrow T25X Wire Stapler to help.
TOM: Plus, we’ve got an Arrow T5 0 to go in that package. They’re going out to one caller drawn at random. To prepare, pick up the phone and call us or post your question at MoneyPit.com. That digit, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Heading over to Florida, we’ve get Beverly on the line who’s got a question about placing. What’s going on? Are you installing it yourself?
BEVERLY: It’s really a shed. And it’s 10 x10 and I had some siding that I got- some vinyl surfacing- and I wanted to kept it on a shed. And I figured the shed’s only 8 hoofs high-pitched so I’d be able to set it on myself.
BEVERLY: But I discover conflicting opinions about whether I should use pins or nails.
TOM: Oh, OK.
BEVERLY: So, one hardware-store guy get, “Use screws.” Another one says, “Use nails.” And it’s going on oriented rope committee. And then I threw tar paper.
TOM: OK. Yeah. So it’s not a tough question; it’s not even a close question. You’re going to use fingernails. And not only are you going to use hammers, you’re going to use fingernails and you’re not going to drive them home. You’re not going to drive them to where they’re solidly slamming that surfacing into the familiarized rope board.
Vinyl siding has some peculiarities to its station approach. So you are well aware, of course, you start low, right, and the segments interlock. Now, if you’ll notice, vinyl siding doesn’t have nail loopholes; it has fingernail slits. And that’s for a really important reason. The vinyl has a really big expansion ratio. So if you put the vinyl backing on too tight, where it can’t slide, it’s going to buckle and inspects cruel. You can always envision a bad siding errand, in the south side of the members of this house, when the sun thumps it and it fastens. And that’s because the siding was nailed on too solidly.
So you’re going to use a flathead nail. A roofing claw would be fine or something like that. And you want to merely employed it in the center of the slot and you don’t want to make it tight. You want to leave enough space. When you’re done, you should be able to grab that piece of surfacing and move it back and forth in the slot, you know what I symbolize?
TOM: And if it slithers back and forth, that’s perfect. That’s exactly what you want. It’s not going to fall off. It’s not going to blow away. But because you’ve framed it on loosely that room, it’ll be able to expand and contract and not fasten. OK?
BEVERLY: Well, I’m glad you told me. Because the first- I articulated the screw in and I employed it in tight.
TOM: Yeah. That’s natural. That’s what we are sort of destined to do, is to really ever clear material really strong and close-fisted. But when it comes to siding and that vinyl siding, it’s precisely not done that way and that’s why.
BEVERLY: OK. Well, thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Bev. Good luck with development projects. Thanks for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Next up, we’ve got Darryl in Louisiana. What’s going on at your money crater?
DARRYL: I have an older home, probably in’ 70- early 70 s. And it has the old-time windows, only single glass pane. And I have a couple of good-size picture windows, like 9 hoofs across or something like that. And they’re large-hearted. And I lose a lot of energy there. One of them is on the west side, so I get that afternoon sizzling sun.
DARRYL: And I want to know if it would be better employing my fund to supersede the window with a new informed, double-pane, nice, modern window or situate some separation in the attic. Which the attic also needs insulation, because there’s not much up there. I know I can use- definitely use some insulation. What would be the best use of the money?
TOM: Alright. So, a couple of things come to mind.
So, first of all, regardless of what you do with this window situation, I definitely would make more isolation in the attic. That’s kind of a no-brainer. You’re ever going to get a good return on investment on that. So if you had 8 inches of fiberglass insulation and you could add 8 or 10 or 12 more, you want to use unfaced fiberglass batts and then exactly stack them horizontal to what you have.
You have to trade off storage space- I don’t know if you have a floor in that attic- because you can’t crush the insulation. But putting more isolation in that room is always going to make sense, fiscal and comfort-wise.
DARRYL: Up there now, it looks like it was blown insulation, just like little pieces of sud or whatever it is. And I can- a great deal of- the majority of members of the places, I can see the rafters. It’s not above the rafters which would be, I predict, 8 inches. But if I start putting separation in there, I “ve got all the” wiring for the light-headed sockets and all that. All the wiring is on top of that. So would I really applied the insularity on top of the wire?
TOM: Yep. Yeah. You can- yes, you are eligible to have the wiring run through the fiberglass batts.
When you say rafters, I think you’re referring to the ceiling joists. The rafters are what’s carrying the roof. What you don’t want to do is you don’t want to go all the way at the overhang, from the ceiling joists, up into those rafters because then you’d be blocking off any ventilation that you had at the overhang. So made to ensure that you allow for that ventilation. That’s important in that situation.
But no, there’s no reason to worry about embrace, as long as you have- when was your house built?
DARRYL: It was probably’ 72.
TOM: OK. So, yeah, so you have traditional , non-metallic wire. If you had a really old house, I would- we’d have a different discussion about why you can’t cover electrical wiring. But for a room like that, you can certainly positioned the insulation right on top of that wiring. And I think it’s going to make a big difference.
Now, back to those picture windows. You are certainly two options there. So, yes, you could replace them. And it is a big project and it’s an expensive job. Or you could maybe buy yourself some time by simply picking up some solar colors. They’re pondering on one side and they help to kind of redirect that heat back outside so it doesn’t overwhelm the house and add to the cooling load. It’s going to be a lot less expensive. They’re not nearly as attractive.
Or if you do supplant the window, you’re going to use a low-E glass, which basically entails it has an emissivity coating that reflects the UV of the sunlight back outside. So, you’ll find a huge difference if you throw in isolated panels with a UV coating. And the majority of members of the ENERGY STAR-certified glass has that now anyway. But it’s precisely a big difference, in terms of cost. So it genuinely depends on whatever it is you do.
And you might- “if youre trying to” do that, you could think about breaking it down, you are well aware, doing the- I think you said you had some that were facing west. And I don’t know if it’s something that faces south. But do the countries of the western/ southern face firstly because that gets the most solar gain.
DARRYL: Now, back to the insulation real quick, what’s the best kind? The species that you would just blow in there now or get some kind that reels out?
TOM: Can you get around that attic as it is right now? Can you walk around it even …?
DARRYL: I can, I can. But I’m walking on the ceiling joists and …
TOM: Tops. On the transcends of the ceiling joists, yeah.
DARRYL: Yeah, yeah.
TOM: I make if it was me, I would use unfaced fiberglass batts. It’s a lot easier. If you want to go blown-in, you’ve got to lease a machine for that. Just another coating of complication you don’t have to deal with.
I would give unfaced fiberglass batts. I would lay them perpendicular to the joists and I is very likely pick up- I don’t know- 10, 12, 14 -inch-thick batts and simply lay them line to periphery right on top of the joists. You’ll have a whole new layer of insularity there and it’ll make a big difference for you year-round.
DARRYL: OK. Great. I really appreciate it.
TOM: Yep. Good luck with that job, Darryl. Thanks for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you enjoy hanging out in your backyard on these lovely time nights, then improving a movie screen might be a very fun project for you to take on. It’s actually pretty easy. You basically build a made out of 2-by lumber, then affix a white-hot bedsheet to that make and organize it on a wall or against a barricade, wherever you’ve came seat for your family and your friends to gather around.
Now, if you crave a step-by-step, premier on over to ArrowFastener.com and click on Project. You’ve got all the details there, including a terminated textiles inventory and photos of each step.
TOM: And one implement that realizes coming this project done super easy is the T2 5X WireMate Wire Stapler. It’s a handy, ergonomic cable tacker. You can use it for all your wiring assignments. We’ve got one to give away today to one luck listener, along with a T50 Stapler and a render of staples.
So give us a call. That champion is going to be drawn at random from those that contact us on today’s show. The quantity, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’ve get Lynn in Delaware on the line who’s got a leak in the basement that’s as if somebody’s turned a faucet on. What’s going on?
LYNN: Well, last Thursday we had a torrential sprinkle in Delaware.
LYNN: And I was so afraid of trees falling in the sprinkle, I moved down to my vault immediately. And about maybe two minutes being down there, I examine some sound like somebody turned on a faucet.
LYNN: So, I searched behind the- where the faucet is. It comes from the inside. The water pipe comes from the outside unto the inside. Water was just gushing. It was just bursting in, just like a faucet.
TOM: So, it was coming around the pipe, where the tube “re coming” the wall?
LYNN: Yes, yes.
TOM: OK. Yep. Alright. So that obligates sense. What happens is when you get a torrential rainfall like that, it’s going to find the path of- the easiest path in: the road of least resist. And the holes that are drilled through foot walls for things like plumbing, like the hose bibb in your lawsuit, are going to provide an easy entry.
So, what I would tell you is a couple of things. Now, it probably merely happens when you get maybe a severe downpour like this, maybe even one that’s fueled by rain. But I would- number one is I would take silicone- and you can buy a tube of silicone in a little- in a can, constrict tube or you can buy one simply to put into a caulking grease-gun. And I would close the spread around where the hose comes through the foundation wall. So, next, I miss you to do the same thing on the inside. This is going to stop what happened to you most recently.
But the other thing I miss you to do is to take a look, if you can, at the drainage states outside that wall, because you might find that maybe you have an overflowing gutter there or that you have soil that is sort of settling down and maybe it’s moving too much water towards that area of the- I don’t know how high up this hose bibb is. But generally, the roof and skin-deep sewage circumstances are what starts this all. And it’s an easy stick. You’ve just got to figure out what it is.
Downspouts are also really important to check. Most of the time when the sewer business kept them in, they descend them pretty close to the foundation. We ever like to see them increased out 4 or 5 feet so you’re moving all that water out away from that wall. And if you can kind of move it out and keep it away, you’re going to find that the whole space is a lot drier.
And in your particular case, with this little gusher that happened, sealing the area around the pipe should stop that from happening the next time.
LYNN: Oh, OK.
Now, one other thing that I’m wondering , now that you said about the field settling and everything, this particular step where I’ve had- not gophers. What are those things, groundhogs that used to dig under there?
TOM: Groundhogs, yeah.
LYNN: And I’m wondering if they are able messed- moved the grunge and made a path or something to this particular …
TOM: Yeah, they may have. They may have. Generally, that first 4 to 6 paws you want to do what you can to keep the grunge sloping away from the walls those first few feet. So if it does settle in, you merely supplement clean-living replenish soil. Not topsoil but precisely replenish dirt. They’re inexpensive. And you pack it in there and you slope it apart. Then you have been able keep some mulch or you are eligible to placed some topsoil and grass over that. But you want to have that soil ascent away. And it is going to settle every once in a while and specially if you get any overflowing sewers. It’ll merely deteriorate and wash away.
TOM: So, that- maintaining that sort of slope and that seat to keep the walls as dry as possible is important. And it genuinely does help solve a lot of problems with water in the cellar and even dampness in the basement.
LYNN: I appreciate that. That’s what I will do then. Thank you so much better for making my call.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Good luck with that job. Thanks for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, as summer hot starts to fade away , now is a good time to intention some of those end-of-season projects. We put together a short list of four projects that will save you some time, some coin and help avoid costly restores down the road. Here got a few of those that should take place before that forecast begins to change.
LESLIE: Alright. First up , now is a great time to fix a swimming-pool leak. Now, here’s why. A small-time divulge that appears during the summer months can become major fixings during the winter if a freeze/ thaw cycles/second is setting up that crack to be an even bigger leak. So you want to make sure you find and fix any of those big holes now before you settled that move on for winter.
TOM: Next- and this is one that’s really hard to think about right now, Leslie. That’s clean the furnace. When it’s 90 severities out …
LESLIE: Yeah. I’m not putting the heat on.
TOM: Yeah. Hard to think about that but here’s why. You know, formerly it starts to get a little colder, the HVAC corporations get genuinely, really busy servicing those machines. Anytime you have a- extremely if you have a gas or an oil or a propane plan, it’s got to be cleaned. Because just like your car, if you don’t clean it from time to time, if you don’t get a tune-up once in a while, it starts to run rough and it can be dangerous. So, get in line now when demand is low. Get those technicians out to fix your furnace, do the service on it, change out the filters and you’ll be good to go on the first chilly day when you turn it on.
LESLIE: Alright. And you’ve likewise got to look for leakages, in general, around your money crater. Now, time is a major hour for sea damage to occur in and around the home. Those summertime squalls popped off maybe some roof shingles, perhaps you’ve got a leaking A/ C measurement. And there’s some other common beginnings where water can lead to mold, mildew and then wood rot if it’s not restored quickly. So , now really is the time to get those professions done.
TOM: And while you’re putting apart your summer belongings, be sure to check out the condition of your driveway. This is a project I did last year and I’m really glad I did, because the driveway was looking a bit worn. If your driveway has hits or potholes, the end of the summer is a great time to perform those repairs. Patching is something you can do yourself. There are makes available at home centers or you could have a pro come in and do it for you.
Now is a great time before that freeze/ thaw cycle knocks in because- and we informed the committee that earlier. When it gets wet and the sweat that comes in that driveway or in the wall or in the wherever freezes, it expands. And that actually tears up those skin-deeps. So do it now and you’ll be good to go for the season.
LESLIE: John in Pennsylvania is on the line and has a question about flooring. What can we do for you today?
JOHN: We’re about to become homeowners and we need to rip up some carpet. And we want to install hardwood flooring. We were inquisitive how far you have to leave it away from your new floor- away from the wall.
TOM: Is it prefinished hardwood, John?
JOHN: Yeah, it’s all finished. Yep.
TOM: OK, well, that’s great. Now, I would recommend probably around 1/2 -inch.
TOM: You want to make it so that a piece of baseboard molding plus shoe molding will report it. So, between baseboard and shoe molding, you’ve probably got about an inch to an inch-and-a-quarter of overlap, so to speak. So generally about a 1/2 -inch will work.
Most of the flooring creators will give you specific the recommendations on what the divergence should be but I’d say generally about a 1/2 -inch is fine. And retain, that’s a 1/2 -inch away from the drywall. Because even – you have space under the drywall, as well as another 1/2 -inch. That should give you plenty of room for expansion and contraction.
JOHN: OK. And then the other question was: when we get the new floorings handed, they said you have to leave it a certain amount of time before we position it to get, I guess, acclimated to our brave?
TOM: Yeah, you want to acclimate it to the space that it’s going to be in. Because if it comes really cold, for example, it’s going to kind of shrink and then if it expands, it could buckle up. So wishes to exactly settled it in the apartment that you’re going to install it in and leave it there for a good couple of periods to acclimate.
JOHN: OK, great.
TOM: Good luck with that campaign. It’s very exciting. This is your first house?
JOHN: Yeah, yeah. First house, yep.
TOM: Alright. Well, good luck.
JOHN: Appreciate it. Thank you.
LESLIE: Well, a garage is for housing your autoes but these days, dangerously, who leans their gondola in a garage? I certainly don’t. I means that you unquestionably framed everything else in there. But so many genealogies do use the garage as the primary admittance to their home. And then the rest of the neighborhood could be a workshop, a diversion gap, maybe even a socially-distant dwelling gym.
Well, with the garage getting so much wear and tear, it constructs gumption to give the storeys a protective finishing that’s going to do double-duty. It’s going to work well but likewise beautify the space.
TOM: Well, that’s right. Garage storeys need to look good but they also need to be able to handle some quite severe states. We’re talking about road salt flatten off the car that’s particularly corrosive. And it’s got to be able to do that all wintertime long.
So, probably one of the best alternatives is an epoxy floor coating. It goes on like make-up and it’s a good project to do in a weekend. It’s not exceedingly difficult, which does it perfect for DIYers.
LESLIE: OK. So , now, move us through the process. How do we start this project so that we don’t, you know, mess it up? Because I know it’s kind of like a chemical reaction, right?
TOM: Yeah, it’s a bit of a chemistry project.
And just like most painting assignments, it began with prep. Except when it comes to the epoxy floor arrangements, there is an acid-wash step. It various kinds of etches the surface and it makes sure that the paint can properly protrude. Because adhesion, of course, that’s certainly, really important.
And next comes the epoxy. Now, the difference about working with epoxy compared to regular dye is that it is a two-part process. When you buy the epoxy garage-floor depicts, one proportion is the paint and one percentage is the hardener. You need to mix them together as targeted so a chemical reaction does follow and allows the paint to dry to a really hard, durable finish.
Now, you can’t mix it together and vanish, “You know what? This is a really good time for me to take a lunch.” Because formerly it’s mingled, the epoxy has about two hours to 21/2 hours of kind of can life. So, you don’t want to mix up any more than you can use at that one time. And whenever you’re painting a floor, it’s a good opinion to be employed in what I call a “2-foot-deep kind of a circle, ” like 2 hoof by 6 hoof kind of area. I kind of like to work in arcs and then I walk backwards. And then you apply the finish in a vertical direction. So you’re going good coverage that action and you’re performing some progress and you’re moving it along.
LESLIE: Now, with this product or this type of product, is it multiple hairs? Is it one coat? How do you know when you’ve kind of got enough?
TOM: Well, I said here today that the pros often do at least two coatings. They make the first one dry overnight and then apply a few seconds. And there is something that can be done to dress up the flooring even further and kind of hide gaps or flaws and that is you can add color flakes to the epoxy. There’s different colourings of these flecks and they impart it a little of a quality. And some folks go a step further than that and they’ll lent a clear coat on top of that. But I would say at least two hairs if you’re a DIYer.
LESLIE: Alright. Now, if you don’t want to deal with epoxy- maybe the thought of sort of having a time limit or mingling these things together- is there another product that we can be using that’ll pass us the same durability but maybe not be such a process?
TOM: Well, I represent if you don’t want to paint the storey- and if you are going to paint it at all, I would use epoxy. But if you don’t want to do that, there are other options. You could use a membrane produce, which mostly reels down. It’s terribly thick-skulled. Typically has kind of a texture or almost a diamond-plate kind of surface to it. And it’s frequently rubber, so you can use a sheet-flooring product like that designed for that exterior cavity that the garage is.
Or you can use floor tiles. There are garage-floor tiles. And I did this, by the way. These definitely sounds like a baffle part. They have interconnecting perimeters and they’re pretty big.
LESLIE: Is it almost like a gym floor?
TOM: Yeah, I wouldn’t say a gym storey. You necessitated the manner where it’s like the sud is fastened together?
TOM: Not really. It’s a hard tile
LESLIE: No. So these are hard.
TOM: It’s a hard tile, right.
TOM: And it has a puzzle edge to it. And the tiles were about 20 inches square, from what I remember. And we basically simply fastened them together and stacked them together. And we were able to order tiles in different pigments and attain various kinds of an attractive pattern.
LESLIE: Oh, that’s fun.
TOM: And that’s what we did in my sort of shop/ garage, which is a space I invest a fair amount of time in. So I crave it to be nice. And that’s a little bit more expensive than the epoxy commodities but you certainly have the option. And I imagine now is a really good time to think about that. If you’ve never done this before, you’re going to really enjoy consider how clean and organizations to finished a beautiful floor- and there’s one more benefit to doing this project, Leslie. It forces you- actions you- to empty-bellied the part garage. So you have to clean-living it at the same time.
LESLIE: Oh, that is a project. Alright. Good tips.
Chad in Michigan, you’ve went The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
CHAD: I attended an vitality testify where they were showing an energy shield or a cover made out of aluminum. What it was designed to do was to mostly block the radiant heat from infiltrating your house in the summer. Thus, you’re using less intensity, I guess, to stay cooler.
And then, in the wintertime, what it does- it frustrates your heat from escaping, very much like the cosmonauts use from the extreme temperature in space. Since I’m building a brand-new mansion, could you settle this wrapper between your ceiling drywall and the bottom of your truss? Or is there a better way of saving the gleaming hot from infiltrating your house in the summer?
TOM: What you’re talking about here is a product called “reflective barrier.” And I have to say that I’m not convinced that it employments really well and would not certainly recommend it. And usually, it’s put in a home that’s already fabricated. It’s a little bit easier to put in a home that, obviously, is being built.
But there are far better alternatives if you are interested in make your residence energy-efficient. I would tell you to look into spray-foam insulation, solely Icynene. Because when you use a spray-foam insulation in new construction, it does two things: not only does it shield but it closes every possible little gap that is going to be throughout that building. And when the walls are open like that, you can have it sprayed and it’s going to do that. It’s also quieter in terms of preventing sound transmission. It just has so many wonderful assistances. I would tell you to focus on something like that to give yourself a real benefit and are floating free from the radiant-barrier products.
CHAD: Oh, OK. Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Chad. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, coating your mansion is a job that’s got to be done every couple of years, at the end of summertime/ early precipitate. That’s kind of the best timeframe for that assignment. So we’ve got a few gratuities for a great-looking exterior paint job that will last-place for years.
TOM: Now, first up, planning is certainly key. An inexperienced painter cannot wait to begin applying the coat but the pros know …
LESLIE: Oh, that’s their first step: paint.
TOM: Oh, yeah. Got to get depict on it, right?
LESLIE: Put the dye on.
TOM: If you’re a pro- and you know that you want this dye job to last so you don’t get callbacks from very unhappy purchasers- it’s really, really important you get the prep right. Otherwise, that’s exactly what’s going to happen. You’re going to get peel draw and it’ll be a mess.
So, before you start to paint, make sure that surface is clean, free of dirt, free of chalk, which is when the depict surface starts to disintegrate. Scrub it, cleanse it. Remove any loose, flaking or rind paint by scratching, wire-brushing, sanding.
On the wood surfacing, you want to make sure you sand areas that didn’t have any kind of a brightnes on it, any kind of a glossy paint skin-deep. Otherwise, that brand-new coat is not going to stick. And if you insure any naked grove, you have to do something announced “spot-priming.” That merely means that you buy primer and you primary the place that’s bare. You don’t have to prime the whole thing, although it’s not really a bad thing to do that. But you are required to definitely prime that blot that is there, because that is going to give you good adhesion. If you skip the stair, you are going to be very sad, we foresee, anywhere from 3 to 6 months down the road.
LESLIE: It’s true-life. You really have to do this work.
Now, here’s another thing that I visualize parties only various kinds of ignore or don’t think is important but it is. You’ve got to buy good dye. Even though the highest-quality exterior paint does overhead a little bit more, this is not a spot to think, “Oh, I should cut corners and buy the one that’s less expensive.” Most of decorate is labor. You’re going to put in a lot of work here and your exterior coat profession needs to last-place far longer and be less expensive in the long run. So use the best possible paint so you’re not doing this project again sooner than you have to.
Now, another arrange to not cut corners is in the touches and the rollers that you are using. You want to use the best-quality cover and roller that’s going to give you the very best finish. Only make sure you buy the right nap or bristle for the type of paint and the type of surface. So that lane you know it’s good.
TOM: I can’t tell you how many times, over the years, beings have called and said, “I must have got some bad depict, because this happened or that happened.” And I’m like, “It’s not- no bad draw, people. It’s just bad painters.” The chances of anybody having bad decorate are infinitesimal. So somewhere, you missed a prep stair, I can guarantee it.
Finally, watch out for the forecast. It’s not a foul-weather sport. You’ve got to make sure that you have the right temperatures. If you try to paint your dwelling when the exterior is too warm, it’s going to dry too quickly and it’s not going to flow right. And that’s going to make it inspect various kinds of funny. You might accompany some brushstrokes. And of course, if you wait too long, it gets too cold. You can’t do that either. So pay attention to the weather.
There is no doubt that drawing the exterior of your live is one very big DIY project. But if you preserve a few tips-off in brain as you’re doing that and make sure you paint properly, use good commodity and you follow the climate, you’re going to have a job that you’re truly proud of for many years to come.
So you can call us at 888 -MONEY-PIT or post your question to MoneyPit.com or to Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit, which is what Julie did in Chicago.
LESLIE: That’s right. Julie writes: “The sliding-glass doorways on my bathtub enclosure were gaping disgusting, so I removed them.”
TOM: That’s a technological call, by the way: disgusting.
LESLIE: Disgusting, mm-hmm.
TOM: Just notes that out.
LESLIE: She says, “Including the chassis divests. Can I supplant the door myself or do I need to hire someone? And is there anything tricky about this project? ”
TOM: Yeah. You know, the trails that those doors journey in, extremely the bottom track, the ocean sits in there all the time and doesn’t ever drain properly. So it gets really gross and moldy-looking. And eventually, they do need to be replaced.
And today, when you do replace them, I would make sure that you’ve got ways that are draining properly, because that’s typically what incantations the end of these. That plus only emptying the doors over the years tends to sort of fade the finish or make it a bit rough.
I unquestionably think it’s a DIY project. I mean it’s not all that difficult to do. You it is necessary mostly disassemble the whole thing and reassemble the brand-new trash, which goes in pretty much the same way. So you start with a way that attaches to the shower pan, right? And frequently, you are required to gave a caulk sealant under that. And then, from there, “youve had” two vertical sort of side-door jambs that go up each side of the shower. And then, from there, you put one sort of headpiece that moves- that only basically stacks over those back jambs. And drop in the doors themselves.
So, as long as you measure everything out properly and impede to those features so that there’s no drag, the doors aren’t too high or too low, I think it’s a rather simple substitution project.
What do you think, Leslie?
LESLIE: I think it’s certainly a project you can do yourself, accommodated you can hold the force of the door. It’s like you want to make sure that you’re not going to inadvertently fell or mar the patch in the process. So if you’ve got a buddy or you think it’s practicable, then it’s emphatically something you can do on your own.
Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post now from Corinne in Pennsylvania. Now, Corinne writes: “The black, adaptable spacers between the three big concrete slabs that even off my driveway are brittle and are coming out. How do I replace them? With what? And can I do it myself? ”
TOM: Yeah, again, I think it’s a DIY project.
Now, first of all, those spacers are mostly swelling pieces and they are put in there to basically devote some segregation between the different sections of the concrete slab. And over day, they do deteriorate. So what you can do is pull those out. Then you’re going to want to insert a foam sponsor rod into that sort of slot that has assembled and have that be maybe a 1/2 -inch or 3/4 -inch below the surface. The reasonablenes you’re doing that is because the last thing you’re going to do is you’re going to apply a self-leveling sealant. And that’s going to sit on top of that patron baton and pays special attention to either feature of the concrete. And this direction, you won’t have to positioned undue quantities of that sealant, because it is$ 6 or$ 7 a tube.
QUIKRETE makes a really good one. In fact, I precisely did it to parts of my driveway. We had self-leveling sealant there at the apron, where it exits between the driveway and the garage, and it ran perfectly.
LESLIE: Yeah, Corinne. That’s one thing. When you buy a mansion, you never know what improvements or things were various kinds of temporary secures and things that should have been permanent. So, hopefully this helps you out.
TOM: It doesn’t last forever. Maybe concrete but it doesn’t last forever.
You’ve even listen to The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. We are so glad you devoted part of your era with us. We hope your summer has vanished well. And if you’re thinking about projects for the jug months onward, we are not rushing you through the end of summertime. We’ve still got a few warm weeks. But if you’re thinking about some projects through the cooler months onward, get those together. Give us a call with your questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT anytime it comes to mind. We’re open 24/7. I never let Leslie sleep. She ever rebuts the phone. And so, she’d be happy to make your question. Nah, actually, we have a- yeah, we have a great time that does take …
LESLIE: I do a great deal of immense singers. “Hello? Hello? ”
TOM: Yeah, we have a great team that takes the calls 24/7. So give us a summon. We will call you back the next time we are in the studio.
Until then, I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Creation, Inc. No fraction of this record or audio folder may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Make, Inc .)
The post Episode # 2026: Garage Floor Do-overs | Make Your Own Outdoor Movie Screen | End of Summer Fix Ups | DIY House Painting appeared first on The Money Pit.