In this episode …
Kitchens renos can be costly but informing dated, drab and dull closets doesn’t have to be. Tom and Leslie walk you through options to replaced, refaced or time refinish kitchen cabinet and save a ton of money!
Plus, concrete is a jolly permanent house substance but if yours examinations opposed or cracked, we’ve got a great solution for resurfacing concrete that you can do yourself with stunning results.Now that we have reached September, it’s a good time to make sure your gutters are ready for the descent season onward. We’ll walk you through the step by step and to make sure things prevent spurting smoothly.
Plus, provide answers to your residence progress questions about, repairing a leaky toilet, cleaning garage floor of grease, caulking windows, cleaning ceiling mold safely
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question here.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And what are you working on as we roll toward the end of summertime? There must be a project or two on your to-do list, because that’s why we are here: to help you get those undertakings done. If there’s a project you’d like to tackle, you don’t know where to start, you don’t know if you should do it yourself or go with a pro, if you’re stuck in the middle cause us a bawl, right now, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. We’d love to help get you going again.
Coming up on today’s show – you know, Leslie, I spoke to a friend this week who was just telling me he and his wife were planning to replace their concrete driveway with asphalt. Which I mean they’re both neat driveways. But let’s face it, I suppose concrete driveways are a lot nicer than asphalt. And so I was kind of wondering why he was going to do that. And he said that the surface was worn, it was opposed and he various kinds of got tired of looking at it. So, I imparted him a driveway solution that he totally didn’t expect and now he’s impeding the driveway. It looks incredible. And I’ll tell you what did the ploy, in really a bit.
LESLIE: Alright. Can’t wait to hear it.
And people, kitchens are the one region in your mansion where the majority of members of us actually do spend an frightening pile of time. But if you ever feel like your kitchen cabinets are dated, drab, even dull, it may not always be your favorite area be contained in. Well, the good news is that there are options for getting a new look without separating the bank. Kitchen lockers can be replaced, refaced or really refinished. We’re going to help you sort out those options.
TOM: And now that we’ve contacted September, it’s a good time to take a good look at your gutters. They are key to more than simply hindering sea from overflowing. If yours are in bad shape, there are a few serious structural difficulties that can result.
LESLIE: Alright. But firstly, chaps, we want to know what you are working on. How can we help you get ready for the twilight season and of course, the winter behind it? We want your coin cavities to be in top influence as everything starts to cool down. So generate us a call.
TOM: 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Let’s get to the phones. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Hi, Fred. Welcome to The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
FRED: I have a standard toilet. House was built in’ 29, so it’s, what, 80 years old? It’s the type where the container hangs on the wall and then you have an L and then you have, I guess- what do you call that? The container?
And it started to leak and so the old metal was somewhat corroded and everything. So we got everything out. We took the tank off the wall, we- I say we, that I, the plumber who I’ve been using for many years- scavenged everything up. Went to the hardware store that handles these various kinds of fittings and we just cannot get this thing to work. It leaks.
TOM: Where does it reveal? Does it reveal at the- where at- the base of the tank where the pipe connects?
FRED: In both, yeah. Well, one time we did it, it revealed at the lower end of the barrel. The other age, it seeped when it went into the bowl.
TOM: What various kinds of a washer are you exploiting? What various kinds of a gasket or seal are you consuming in those two places?
FRED: Well, I don’t know the technical names of it. The chap at the- they look like the same stuff we took off. I’m a musician; I don’t know all these things.
TOM: Well, this shouldn’t be that hard to accomplish and it sounds like whatever they’re exercising in that gasket space right there is not working. And look, if all else flunks, you can simply use silicone now. You could exploit the silicone in- as you threw this together, you could – you shut all of those seams with silicone. Let it baked. Try not to touch it until it dehydrates. And then you can take a razor blade and cut off the excess, nice and nifty, and essentially stimulate your own gasket.
FRED: Yeah, the plumber mentioned something. He said the only thing is if that thing fails and I’m not home, I’m going to have a house full of water.
TOM: That’s true-blue. But the thing is, if it- once it cultivates, it frequently labours continuously. It’s not- it doesn’t usually miscarry. If you get it right, it’s not going to fail, OK?
FRED: Yes. So, in other words, unless I can see some microchips or mar on the porcelain or something like that, which I don’t picture, it should work.
TOM: But I would take it apart and I would seal, with silicone, each contact as it goes together so that you be brought to an end with a good constriction of silicone around that. That’s the answer, OK? Good luck with that programme. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Stephanie in California is having a heating-and-cooling issue. Well, exclusively, a cooling issue in the bedroom. What’s going on?
STEPHANIE: Oh, we don’t know. Right now, “were living in” a four-bedroom house. Every apartment in the house, except in cases of the master bedroom, goes cool during the summer. We have not done a wintertime hitherto. This bedroom- the master bedroom- is at least 5 to 7 magnitudes warmer than any part of the house.
TOM: OK. Well, there could be a number of reasons for that. First of all, what back of the house is it on?
STEPHANIE: It would be on the south side of the house.
TOM: The more sun, the more cooling you need. So it’s not unusual for a apartment on the south or the west side to need more cooling power.
So let’s talk about what you could do to try to improve this. First of all, I would check the airflow at the registries to make sure you’re getting good airflow at all of the A/ C registers. In some disputes, systems can be poised so that they supply more air to one apartment and less breath to another.
Just as important is to check the return registries, Stephanie, because not only do you have to push cold breeze into the room, you have to pull the breeze back so it can be recooled. If you don’t have a return in the bedroom itself, it’s going to be a central return, like in the hallway, perhaps, outside of the bedroom. If that’s the subject, you want to make sure that when you close the door of the bedroom, that there’s at least a 1-inch gap under the door. Because that’s how the breeze get plucked back and again, recirculated.
Other things that you can do would be to increase insulation over this particular room. So if there’s an attic access above, for example, you could double up the separation over that and that would also help to keep it cooler.
So I would speak with your HVAC professional, first, to try to get the balance working a little better. And then if that doesn’t work, think about adding some additional separation. And if that doesn’t work at all, the other thing that you could do is you could supplemented supplemental chill to that.
I have a room, for example, in my home where I have a split-ductless system because it happens to be on the west side, in my occasion, and it overheats. It’s far away from the air conditioning-system supply and so I never fairly get enough cooling air into this one room to make it cozy. So we have a split-ductless system in there that supplements it.
So those are all good options to help even out the temperature of that area in the house. Stephanie, thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now I’ve went James in Massachusetts on the line who is having an issue with an unruly couch.
What’s going on, James?
JAMES: About 20 years ago, I bought a beautiful, wooden sofa discoloured a delightful, dark walnut shade. And where you sit on it were cushions that were covered in a fabric.
LESLIE: Were they liberate cushions or were they attached to the frame?
JAMES: They were not attached to the frame; they were loose. The enclose is quite beautiful. You’d walk all the way around the couches. It’s probably best is evident from behind, where you can see the structure of the grove. It’s a very nice couch. But after about 16 times, the cushion fabric wore out so I had this brilliant idea that I was going to cover the cushions in a faux leather.
And now, four years on, I find that the cushions stick to the wood. Somehow, the faux skin- Naugahyde, whatever it are likely to be- is leaching the grime right out of the grove. The remainder of the timber, where the cushions don’t touch it, is still as beautiful as it ever was. But where the cushions stroke it , now it is all tacky. It does not move onto the cushions themselves. I can touch the cushions and they do not feel sticky. Is there a solution besides making this thing down to bare wood?
LESLIE: It’s possible. And that’s probably because of the same reason you’d see it in the kitchen, which is moisture. Not trying to tell me that the cushions are wet but because the cushions have a texture to them that is also smooth- if that impels smell? You know how leather or even artificial skin, when you sit on it, it gets warmed up and then you kind of stick to it? I feel like you’re probably get the same thing, exactly in the area where you’re going the contact from the finish to the actual fabric itself.
Now, what you could do, if you are committing to a specific side of the cushion that will always be the top, you could hummed something almost like a canvas or a moleskin or something on the bottom that opens it more campaign but is also more of a breathable fabric. The only issue is it might come slipping off. But it won’t stick.
JAMES: Oh, that’s an excellent plan. So, half the cushion would be fabric and the persona that’s touching the grove?
LESLIE: Right. The posterior feature would be a fabric that’s more of a support or a basi, like a canvas or a duck cloth.
JAMES: Now, such is- not only is the bottom cushion but also the back that ways wood, as well. So, fabric all the way where it handles the timber. Is there anything that can salvage the finish of the grove without just taking it down to bare wood?
LESLIE: Do you find that when “youve had” the cushions off for some time that it sort of re-solidifies or re-cures or no?
JAMES: No, it doesn’t. It remains inelegant, although I have to admit I’ve not researched that out for a great length of period. I mean like a few months or something.
LESLIE: It might be worth it only to do- not to take it all the behavior down to bare wood but to get something like a liquid sander. It comes in a bottle. You’ll find it in any residence center in that paint-and-stain aisle.
And then only employed that on. You sort of cover it on or lick it on in the area and is letting it have a little bit of tacking to it. And maybe really then hand-sand it a little bit with a sanding sponge and then only apply your discolour or your finish to that precise smudge or do that whole railing. It announces to me like you have a slatted back and a slatted fanny, perhaps. So I would just do the members of the commission that have those matters which it , not the rest of the frame.
JAMES: Sound like an excellent intuition. So, liquid sander and fabric on the back of the cushion.
LESLIE: It’s merit a shot.
JAMES: Thank you very much. I appreciate your help.
TOM: Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for announcing us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Wendy in Arkansas, you’ve went The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
WENDY: I have a mobile home. So there’s no attic room. And recently, I had a seep in my roof, in my bedroom, and it started out just a spray stain on the ceiling. It’s nearly 12 inches wide, 24 inches long.
But now, recently, in the past few weeks, it looks like it’s flourishing mold. It’s a blot about the size of a dinner sheet that- it’s real gloom, black molding. So I’m concerned that it may be black mold and I don’t know if- is there something that I can do to fix this with primer or depict and maybe bleach or something to kill the molding? Or is it something- am I going to have to replace the sheetrock in the ceiling?
TOM: Well, first and foremost, do you think that you’ve dealt with the leakage? That there’s no longer a seep there?
WENDY: Well, I have a metal roof and I think what has happened is the rain became a really, really bad storm and it was blowing all different directions. And I fantasize the liquid actually blew under- it blew up under the metal on the ceiling. I don’t think it’s actually a spill, because I haven’t ever had any more problems.
TOM: Alright. So here’s what you need to know: if your ceiling does stained like that from a seep, you can’t really depict over it because the stain will come through. So what you have to do first is you have to prime it. So get an alkyd-based primer or an oil-based primer- water- or oil-based, it doesn’t matter- and paint over that discern. Then once you’ve coated over with the primer, then you can paint- introduced the finish coat on top of that. But the primer has to be done first.
If you’re concerned that it’s mildew and you want to make sure it’s not, then I would take about a 15 – to 20 -percent bleach solution- so maybe 1 component bleach, 3 parts ocean, something like that; you can make it a bit stronger- spraying it down in that moldy area, give it are participating in 15 to 20 minutes and then clean it off. And then carried out with the primer and the paint.
WENDY: OK. Like I said, I’m concerned I can’t understand the other side of the sheetrock because there is no attic space.
TOM: Well, right now, it’s a fairly small spot, so let’s only deal with that and then move on. I wouldn’t make a bigger problem out of it just yet. If we speculate the leakage was a one-time situation, so now we just have to deal with this. It’s most likely a spill stain that you’re looking at and not mold.
WENDY: I’m pretty sure it’s mold. It’s one place. It does glance fuzzy-like. It’s a white-hot …
LESLIE: There is a product called a 5-Minute Mold Test and it’s actually a swab within almost like a little tube-y thing and you merely swab the expanse that you think is mold and pop it in there. And you’ll actually get a reading within five minutes say to you if it’s mold.
And I contemplate- does it also tell you the type of mold, Tom?
TOM: I think it might and they have a consulting service, too, that they’ll follow up with you on the result and tell you what they recommend you do about it.
WENDY: OK. Well, huge. That certainly facilitates. I’ll give it a try.
TOM: Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, if you’ve got a worn out or a crackers or precisely a generally kind of yucky-looking concrete driveway, walkway or a patio- that yucky is a technological expression; I merely just wanted to move that clear.
LESLIE: It’s highly technical.
TOM: It may seem, at first, that the only option you have is to totally tear it out and change it. But that is not the case.
So, my buddy had a concrete driveway that was cracked and it was spalled. Spalling is where the surface kind of wears off and it typically happens …
LESLIE: So you receive a great deal of the aggregate?
TOM: Yeah, you start to see the stone. And typically, it happens because of the rock salt that they use on the roadways. Because he wasn’t certainly exerting any kind of corrosive salt in the winter at his house but it dribbles off the car. So, wherever you are, if they’re working any sort of astringent salt, it’s going to drip on your driveway. And anyway, the surface had just kind of worn and it was really looking nasty and his wife was kind of bugging him about it. She didn’t like to look at it, either.
So, he was ready to tear it out and go with asphalt. I said, “Wait a instant. The concrete is structurally resonated. It’s got a few minor fissures and that skin-deep, we can fix.” And I told her all about that new QUIKRETE product announced Re-Cap. Pretty amazing stuff. It lodges to concrete like crazy and he was capable of threw a whole new surface on it in literally one day. And now it examinations fanciful. Saved him a assortment of coin and he’s still got the concrete driveway.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, Re-Cap is a great solution if you want to renew any sort of old or worn-looking concrete patios, sidewalks, even driveways with a permanent, wear-resistant surface at rightfully a fraction of the cost to replace it. It’s a DIY-friendly project. You time mix, pour and then spread the concrete resurfacer over that skin-deep, as long as it’s cleaned with a 3,500 -PSI pressure washer. And you should make it run dry, too.
TOM: Yeah. And the key here is Re-Cap’s uncanny ability to bond to the old-time concrete. It’s actually four times stronger than the concrete itself. This means that whatever you have resurfaced with Re-Cap- whether it’s a patio, a sidewalk or a driveway- it’s going to last-place a really, truly long time and you won’t have to change it.
So, good stuff. Highly recommends the following for all of those yucky concrete surfaces.
LESLIE: Kathy in Arizona is on the line and needs some assist emptying the garage. What can we do for you?
KATHY: Well, we bought this house last-place fall and the garage storey is, I’m sure, grease from the cars but I don’t know how to clean it up. I’m just wondering if I can do that myself or if I’ve got to hire somebody to do that.
TOM: I think you can do it yourself. What you want to do is pick up some trisodium phosphate. It’s known as TSP. You’ll see it in the hardware accumulation or cover alley of a home hub. Mix that up into a paste-like consistency and cover the area of the stain. Let it sit for a while and then wash it out. Now, aged petroleum stains are among the most difficult to take up but it will brighten it up a bit.
And if you require it to be cleaner than that, what I would do is I would shower the flooring, cause it baked really well and then paint it. You could use an epoxy illustration- garage-floor painting system. It’s a two-part epoxy that’s chemical-cured. So you mix the two parts of the paint together, you apply it to the floor, then you wait an hour or two and it mostly thickens right up for you. And then it’ll be a lot easier to clean-living after that.
KATHY: OK. So I going to be able kept that epoxy over if I don’t get all this grease up?
TOM: No. Once you cleaning process the grease, as I mentioned, you are eligible- it may- the grease may be up but it might still be stained. And if you wanted to make it look nicer, then you have been able decorate it.
LESLIE: Yeah. Because the beginning part of this kit is usually like an etching combination that sort of planneds the flooring to receive the membrane. So if you can simply get the actual grease off, even if they are the stain is there, it’ll prepare it so that it will adhere to it.
KATHY: Alright. OK. Alright. Thank you.
TOM: So, Leslie, I’ve get this new line of products I’ve been checking out from Sunday. It’s at GetSunday.com. They stir non-toxic lawn-care produces. And I adore it because they carry you exactly what you need. You go to their website, put in your address. They actually instantly find your house in all of the- from all the satellite assistances across the country.
LESLIE: It’s really cool. You throw in your address …
TOM: Scary cool, right? Yeah.
LESLIE: And you’re like, “Wait a second. That’s my house. Oh, wait. I told you that was my house.”
TOM: “There’s my adolescents was participating in the backyard.” You know what I mean? It’s like …
LESLIE: “There’s my house.”
TOM: But it’s really cool because they can figure out the lawn coverage, so you don’t have to measure it. And then they send you exactly what you need to dress up your lawn.
And this summer has been so hot, I’ve been browning out a good deal. So, I made it on about two weeks ago now, actually, and it’s really starting to brighten things up. It looks really good. It’s getting that fresh, lettuce look all over again.
So, they’re giving our listeners a $20 -off coupon, very. If you go to GetSunday.com and you recruit promo code MONEYPIT, you’ll get 20 bucks off. So, I recommend you guys check it out because I’m quite affected with this company. They’re certainly doing it right. And again , non-toxic products.
When I used to have a lawn work, they are able to introduced those little pennants that say, “Keep babies off the lawn, ” for so many days and things like that. Not with this stuff. Pets and kids can play on the lawn immediately. There’s nothing there hazardous. Absolutely non-toxic and it toils truly, really well.
LESLIE: Well, brand-new kitchens are expensive but regenerating older lockers so they gape new isn’t. Now, as long as your lockers are structurally sound – you don’t crave them dented or delaminated or anything like that. But if they’re in good shape, they’re a good candidate for refacing or depicting. So, let’s talk about those options.
Now, kitchen-cabinet refacing, that involves replacing the doors and the veneer on existing laminate or lumber caskets. And it’s certainly a job for a pro but it rightfully is less expensive than getting brand-new boards. And the quality of the existing cabinetry and the brand-new materials addrest likewise will affect the finished product. So if you have really solid original lockers, this truly could be a great option for you.
TOM: And a lot of older closets, actually, are constructed considerably better than newer ones, so that’s why that is such an attractive option.
LESLIE: Oh, for sure.
TOM: I enjoy those aged birch lockers. They don’t glance so great but person, they are rock-solid.
Now, in addition to refacing, you could also simply refinish or depict. And it’s becoming more popular now than ever before. I desire the fact that there are so many brand-new locker intends that are based not on just a clear finish and a beautiful lumber manner but to a neat grey or a Colonial Blue or a beautiful color like that.
And you can take those old lockers “thats been” perhaps stained and colour them. Or if you want to restain them, you can. But the first thing you need to do is just kind of check the structure, make sure they’re good-quality lockers so you can sand them without anything happening, like them falling apart or you cutting through a really ridiculously thin veneer or noting that it’s delaminating and you have some other issue to deal with.
But formerly you get them sanded down, you can prime them. And I do recommend you use a type of primer called a “high-bond primer.” Basically, it signifies it stays really well. High bond- in other words, it bonds to the surface perfectly. And then I would use an oil-based finish or a solvent-based finish for the topcoats, merely because it’s mostly more durable, it’s harder, it doesn’t chip as easily.
And you can redo all of those cabinets, literally, in a weekend or two. What I would suggest you do is take all the drawers out, take the cabinet doors off and basically paint the boxes separate from the doors and the drawers. And again, made to ensure that you sand them well, you primary them properly. And you can have a beautiful, brand-new kitchen without roughly the outlay of reno-ing all those cabinets.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you know what? Once that’s done, you are eligible to even go further and give the cabinets a little bit more pizzazz. Add some brand-new equipment. Think about a different finish. It’s OK to desegregate metals: brass and this kind of grazed bronze. It’s really beautiful in a kitchen seat and I think it sort of revamps it. So you can actually take a more traditional cabinet and gave a more interesting hardware on it. And unexpectedly, it’s a completely different look in addition to the new dye or the brand-new face on it.
So, don’t stop with really redoing those cabinets. Truly leave it that next step.
TOM: Excellent advice.
LESLIE: Now we’re heading to South Dakota where David is on the line. What can we do for you today?
DAVID: Yes, thanks for taking my request. I merely had my 120 -year-old house backed with brand-new vinyl placing. I went relatively new vinyl windows. And I’m inquisitive, do I caulk between the J-channel and the window made on the outside?
TOM: No, you don’t have to.
DAVID: OK. That’s not necessary?
TOM: Nah, it’s not necessary. It should be watertight the behavior- if the installers placed it in correctly, it is desirable to watertight as it is. If there is a requirement to- if it needed to be caulked, they would have done that. I know it looks like there’s a big gap there but that’s pretty ordinary. And you generally don’t have to caulk between the back of the J-channel and the two sides of the window.
DAVID: Yeah, I was just worried about if it sprinkles from a certain angle it’s going to wick down through that spread and then run behind the siding?
TOM: Generally, that’s quite tighten and it won’t happen. I represent there’s no reason you can’t caulk it but I don’t undoubtedly think you have to do it.
DAVID: OK. That’s all I wanted to know.
TOM: OK. Well, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Tom in New Jersey, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you?
TOM IN NEW JERSEY: We have a problem now. We have double-pane windows and the seal broke in one of them. And I was wondering if I could restore it myself by exercising clear caulk around the entire perimeter when the window becomes clear, as it sometimes does. If that does not work, would I make it- this will go for a professional to replace the window- the part window- by do what – you are well aware, the caulking profession?
TOM: So, what’s happening here is you have a thermal-pane window and the seal, which is called “swiggle, ” deteriorated and cause moisture in and that’s why you have the fogging. And the reason why sometimes it shadows and sometimes it’s clear is because it truly depends on what the temperature is inside and outside and whether it’s got condensation there or not. It can’t be amended, as you’ve described.
Could you try to seal that when it happens to be clear? Would that have maybe some minor influence? It could but I only don’t think you’re going to stop it and I wouldn’t even bother trying with it. Your preferences are to either live with it- because the good news is that while it’s unattractive, it doesn’t significantly repercussion its energy efficiency measures- or you have been able supplant the window or only the glass itself.
But I think if you were to tell new glass for that window, you may find it to be almost as expensive as doing the window itself. So, I is very likely tell you merely to live with it or supplant the window. But to try to- to caulk it, I don’t think it’s going to have any impact whatsoever.
Actually, that’s a great idea, though. No one’s ever asked me that question, so kudos for the national efforts. 888 -6 66 -3 974.
Well, fall is ahead and now is the time to take a good look at your channels, because they’re actually a really important component that could prevent serious structural troubles from starting. And I think that channels don’t get appreciated fairly for this but we’re going to walk you through the best options for new and enhanced sewers, in today’s Pro Project brought forward by HomeAdvisor.com.
LESLIE: Yeah. You know, gutters perform one duty and that’s controlling the water around your dwelling. But if sewers are missing, undid or clogged, you could be facing major and costly residence repairs.
Now , not managing the water around your residence can cause submerge basements, cracked footings and sidewalks, leaky ceilings and even lead to wood-destroying insects find a snack in your home.
TOM: Yep, that’s right. So when you’re picking out new ditches, the most common kinds are vinyl and aluminum. Now, the vinyl troughs are going to range in price from around 4 to 8 bucks a linear foot. And the least expensive vinyl channels can be very thin, so they can sag and become fragile in extreme temperatures. So, you might as well pay a little bit more for better-quality vinyl gutters.
Now, these troughs too tend to leak more than aluminum troughs, so you may be facing some frequent fixings. So while they were able to potentially a bit easier to install because they’re more sectional, there are some downsides to it.
LESLIE: Now, aluminum ditches tend to be much more durable. They’re going to range in price from$ 6 to $12 per linear hoof but they’re going to stand up to so much more.
Now, aluminum troughs are installed by pros who will custom-build a single channel for each ceiling section and then plan for the relevant sum of downspouts, to made to ensure that those troughs don’t back up during a very heavy rainfall.
TOM: Yeah. And the fact that they can back up, that’s what leads to all the structural difficulties. Because if you think about it, you get wet cellars, you get spate groundworks, you get slick sidewalks, all sorts of bad things. So, really important to keep them in good shape.
Now, once the ditches are installed, they do need to be kept clean-living. The do-it-yourself gutter cleaning is simple enough but it can be a risky enterprise for the untrained weekend warrior. So in the alternative, there are many types of gutter-guard structures on the market to choose from. And all of them give some sort of protection for your channel, at diversifying costs.
LESLIE: And that’s today’s Pro Project presented by HomeAdvisor.com. Find surface regional pros, journal and even pay for over 100 everyday projections with clear, up-front pricing on the HomeAdvisor app. To is starting, download the HomeAdvisor app today.
Linda in Ohio is on the line and needs some advice on purchasing a generator. How can we help you? By the channel, huge idea.
LINDA: Is it possible to use a generator when “youre living in” an suite?
TOM: So are you talking about what kind of generator- like a portable generator or a standby generator?
LINDA: Maybe some standby if my superpower get out.
TOM: So, for an apartment, you have to understand that a standby generator or a whole-house generator is something that’s permanently invested, Linda. So the answer would be no. That said, you could use a portable generator but of course, you’d have to run cables- postponement cords- from the generator itself into the house. So it’s not very convenient.
There is something called a “transfer switch” that can work for a portable generator where it’s kind of like having a mini-electrical panel inside. But again, it’s something that requires some station. And generally, when it’s an accommodation, you can’t do that. So, the only thing you could really do would be to have a portable generator: one that you took out of storage, put outside- because you can’t run it in the accommodation- and then run extension cords in to try to deal with that short-term, hopefully, superpower outage.
LINDA: Wow. That sounds like it would be difficult.
TOM: Yeah. It’s not the best answer but it’s- investigate, because generators are something that are permanently installed into the building’s sort of core electrical organisation? And that’s why it’s real important that they be done correctly. You can’t- when you install these transfer switches inside, they have technology built into them to prevent what’s called a “backfeed, ” so that energy doesn’t go back through the wire and can hurt a lineman, for example, that’s working on the power line. So, you can’t certainly run for your lives without the delivery switching and that has to be permanently lay. And the generator itself is a very big appliance. That said, a portable generator is much smaller.
Now, if you just want to power a couple of things, you could use a very small generator. Generac has one that’s called the iQ that’s 2,000 watts. That’s under 1,000 bucks and will power a carnival number of household parts: small-time devices, light-headeds, that sort of thing. But you have some alternatives there. But again, you have to use an extension cord.
LINDA: OK. Well, thank you.
TOM: Alright, Linda. Good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Maureen in Nebraska writes: “I live in Nebraska with extreme heat in the summer and cold in the winter. I have a cement patio that I would like to repaint but I’m looking for the best paint options and wondering if they make an outdoor epoxy finish. I did etch the plaster before the first time. I covered it and I plan on sanding it before I repaint.”
TOM: Yeah. I mean you don’t genuinely need to remove the old finish for concrete. As long as it’s well-adhered, you can paint over that.
Now, there are epoxy finishes that work well for porches. And it’s the same epoxy finish that you are able to utilize on a garage. These epoxy flooring finishes are basically two parts. They’re desegregated together. And then once they’re mingled, you have a determined amount of working time to get them exercised. Generally an hour to two hours. So, sometimes you have to work in sections.
But one very good manufacturer is Abatron- -Ab-a-t-r-o-n. Not a product you will find at the residence centers; one you will buy online. The company’s been around forever and just really good at what they do. And they have a specified of epoxy finishes that’s super durable. They too have options for different types of decorative elements that you can add to them.
The only thing that you can’t do, Leslie, I reflect, in a situation like this is paint one of your fancy rug structures on it, right? To make it look like an outdoor carpet?
LESLIE: No, I think this is more of one color. Or if you’re doing a very large pattern, that’s more of a large, overscale checkerboard-type. You can’t genuinely get super creative with these.
TOM: Right. But they’re super durable and they adhere are you all right, which is crucial peculiarly, Maureen, living in Nebraska. You’ve got a rough winter there and that’s when that finish can really get an attack.
So, give it a shot. I think it will come out very well.
LESLIE: Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post here from Deborah. Now, Deb writes: “I have a dog whom I cannot keep from jumping and scratching the inside of my breast and back door. They’ve been refinished twice and she continues to damage them. I are intended to either refinish them again or replace them but I cannot think of clever, practical or decorative ways to protect my doorways. Any suggestions? ”
TOM: I predict coming rid of the dog is out, huh?
LESLIE: Right. But I wonder, is it called a “kickplate”? That beautiful slouse of brass or any other kind of metal that’s sort of on the bottom 6 inches or so of the door?
TOM: Right. Yeah.
LESLIE: I wonder if that’s fairly. I don’t know where her puppy is sort of scratching on.
TOM: I was thinking similarly, except I was thinking that you could use a piece of Lexan, which is the really most durable type of Plexiglas, and maybe exactly have it cover the bottom half of the door. And fix it to the door so the dog would be scratching the plastic- the Lexan- and not scratching the door. And if it gets really scratched up, then you could just replace the plastic and the door still looks really good.
So I think we’re on kind of the same theme on that. So if we can’t train the dog- and perhaps there is a way to train the dog not to do that. But if not, you’ve got to think of a reporting like that. And there’s no finish we can tell you that’s going to stand up to that kind of punishment from the dog. So I think you’re looking at some sort of a protective cover that you could add to that, Deborah. So I got something clear, like the Lexan, would work.
LESLIE: Or maybe one that looks a lot like a cat and it’ll scare the dog away. You never know.
TOM: There you go.
You “re listening to” The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, thanks so much for spending this early September weekend with us. We hope that you’ve picked up a deception or two about a project you’d like to get done around your mansion. If you inspect MoneyPit.com, we’ve always came lots of resources there to help with a wide range of projects around your space.
If you’ve got a project you’re planning for the future and you don’t know how to get started, you don’t know where to is starting, you don’t know if you can do it yourself or not, pick up the phone anytime and entitle us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If we’re not in the studio, we will call you back the next time we are.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t is therefore necessary to get it on alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Productions, Inc. No component of this record or audio datum may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Creation, Inc .)
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