In this bout …
If your flannel-cakes are salty and your meatloaf is sweet – you might not be lacking cooking knowledge but the privilege illuminating in your kitchen! Tom& Leslie share tips for top task lighting. Plus…
With U.S. dwelling expenditures still rising, is buying a home that’s been foreclosed a good deal? We’ll share the pros and cons.If you’d like your home to be more energy efficient you first need to do is to stop wasting the power you already have. Insulation is the key- IF it’s added to the right spaces. We’ll share key seats where insulation does the most good.As weather turns cold, mice look for rooms inside your house to keep warm and fed! Learn how to stop mice from moving in for the winter.
Plus, provide answers to your dwelling progress questions about, getting rid of mice, collecting rain water, repairing a crackers drywall ceiling, going cover off a brick facade.
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And welcome to the fall fix-up season. It is officially the Goldilocks season. It’s not too hot, it’s not too cold, so no forgives for projections inside or outside your residence. If you don’t know where to start, begins with us. Call us, right now, with your home improvement questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Coming up on today’s episode, if you find that your cakes are salty and your meatloaf is sweet, well, what you might be lacking is not cooking skills but the privilege lighting in your kitchen. We’re going to share gratuities for the very best undertaking illuminating, merely ahead.
LESLIE: And with U.S. dwelling premiums still rising, it can be tempting to look for a good deal by buying a home that’s been foreclosed. But is it truly? We’re going to share the pros and cons, in only a bit.
TOM: And if you’d like your home to be more energy-efficient, one of the first things you need to do is stop squander the energy you already have. Insulation is the key to doing just that, so we’ll share some tips.
LESLIE: But first, we want to hear from you. What are you working on this descend season? How are you are you ready? Are you thinking about decorating for Halloween? Because I am. Maybe we can help you with that. Are you already daydream about the holidays? Because I am. So make us give you a hand. Give us a call anytime at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
TOM: 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Ron in Pennsylvania, you’ve get The Money Pit. What can we do for you today?
RON: I have an 1865 farmhouse that is in very good condition, with about 2 foot-thick stone walls that are the basement walls. And from what I understand, those old-time, stone walls are made, basically, of stone and sometimes they introduced rubble in the middle. Somehow, discipline mice help find their way through from the outside and I’m trying to figure out how to maybe parge or make plaster in between the stones to protect that from happening.
TOM: So, the mouse, you think, are coming right through the foundation wall?
RON: Oh, yeah. They’re finding their direction through. It’s been 150 years.
TOM: Why can’t you point the openings up? By pointing, I mean add mortar to those fractures or those fissures in the foundation wall, to try to seal those breaches up.
RON: My biggest question, I approximate, is: how do I get that constituent cleaned out so that I can point that up? I approximate I should use breeze rather than water to try to blast it out, to get the dust out of there so that the humidity would- so that the whatever plaster I use will cling. Would you recommend ocean or breeze to try to clean that?
TOM: I think you could probably do it with a pres washer but you’re just going to have to make sure it dries really well before you go ahead and spot it up.
RON: Is there any particular type of concrete commodity you would recommend or plaster you would recommend for that?
TOM: I would take a look at the products that are made by QUIKRETE- Q-U-I-K-R-E-T-E. And you can find a mortar-patching compound that QUIKRETE makes and use that. Because it often has kind of a stickier factor to it, so it’s easier to press it in those places.
But listen, aside from exactly closing up those cracks, exactly keep in mind that there’s a lot of different places that mouse can get into your home. It might not just be those spreads in the foundation. They only need the infinite of about the thicknes of a nickel to crush through.
RON: It’s amazing- pretty amazing- how readily they can get in. We don’t have a lot of trouble with them now as we did a little bit earlier. But I’d like to try to represent those walls nicer again. They have the age-old horse-hair glass.
TOM: Yeah. Well, of course, and that will basically handle both of those challenges. Generally, you want to avoid doing anything around your residence that could be a nesting site. So that could be stacks of firewood or newspapers or things like that. You want to make sure you’re careful with menu in the house, especially domesticated food or types of food products that you keep on the dirt, where it’s accessible. You want to make sure those things are in sealed containers.
You want to look for all those gaps. If you find any little spreads like that, another little ruse of the craft, really temporarily, is only to made steel wool in there. Because mice can’t been through sword wool.
And then you want to use rodenticides. You want to be careful if you have pets. If you do, there are bait depots that the bait can be held by that pets can’t get into. But keeping those working in and around the interior perimeter of the home, especially if it’s up on a vault or a crawlspace, are effective, as well.
RON: Yeah. Alright.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that programme, Ron. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Cheryl is on the line with a decking question. How can we help you today?
CHERYL: I’m going to have a deck built at the back of my home. And I have a concrete pad outside the door. And when I questioned someone to come and look at it and give me an estimate about a deck, they were wanting to situated the aids right on this concrete pad that’s back here. But it’s all broken up and all uneven from a large- very great- maple tree that I have in the back. And the roots, they’re gnarly and they’re- a good deal of them are near the surface. And so, I was wondering if it would even be – you even suggested that I even think of having a deck constructed back there with the tree beginnings and the situation I have.
TOM: So, first and foremost, this is a patio, so it’s a thin concrete slab and be 4 or 5 inches thick. Is that what you’re telling me you have?
CHERYL: Right, right.
TOM: OK. So that is not an appropriate foundation for a floor. And so anyone suggesting that it is would scare me because in your areas of the country, you need to have the footholds for that deck be below the frost front. So that be interpreted to mean that those footholds have to be about 3 feet in the sand. And then on top of those footholds, you can build the deck. Otherwise, the deck’s going to ride up and down as the tract freezes in the wintertime.
So, what I would do is I would break up that patio and take it out of there. If it’s once half-broken up, with a jackhammer you’d probably get that thing out of there in an hour or two. It actually will come out a lot faster than what you would imagine.
In expressions of the tree seeds, yeah, if you can get some of that out of there, it’s probably not a bad opinion. But clearly, what you have to concentrate on is however you’re going to support this floor. If it’s pretty much a grade-level deck, you have to kind of set that beam in even with the rest of the storey structure. If it’s going to be up a little, then you are able to mostly settle the beam underneath the floor joists and assist it on however many editorials it was necessary to make it compliant with house code.
But to do it right, it’s got to be on a foundation. So don’t simply slam a deck arrangement over that porch. It’s simply not going to be built precisely and I disbelieve it would extend building code. And it would also- could belittle your house in the event you tried to sell it in the future.
CHERYL: OK. Well, the contractor that I had out here, he was leery of- he didn’t want to disturb the tree seeds too much for fright of killing this giant tree. And that was his …
TOM: Well, it wasn’t a mixture, because the roots are going to be there with or without the patio. It’s not a mixture. And he’s not going to disturb the tree roots that is something that. Yes, it’ll be hard to dig those faults and you may have to chop through some of them. But I don’t conceive merely digging three or four faults for a ground is going to be enough to kill a tree.
CHERYL: OK. Well, I’m glad that I gave you a call then. Thank you so much.
TOM: Alright, Cheryl. Well, good luck. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Laura in South Dakota is on the line with a leaky basement. What’s going on?
LAURA: Oh, thanks for taking my scold. We live in a lovely antique dwelling but we have for 25 years and we want to be here another 25 times. But “were having” this trouble about- we’re in western South Dakota but every three, perhaps four years, it rains a great deal in June. It’s always in June. And it’s generally three to four days of incessant rain.
And what happens is water begins seeping into our basement. And it’s simply happened perhaps 3 to 5 times in the 25 years we’ve lived here. However, we don’t know how to fix it. We’ve had contractors come in who won’t even respond and cause us a recommendation. But we really don’t know what to do and hoping you can give us some advice.
TOM: So it’s a really, really simple project to do and a simple problem to fix. And the reason it is is because you’ve explained to me that this water problem is caused by severe flood. And when “youve been”- whenever you have a basement-water or a crawlspace-water problem that’s tied into rainfall or snow melt, the mixture is always to fix the drainage at the foundation perimeter. And there’s two ways to do that.
The first thing that you need to do is to look at the trough arrangement. You need to make sure you have a gutter system, that it’s big enough to handle all the water that’s coming off the roof. You needed here downspout for every 600 to 800 square hoofs of ceiling face. And if you stand back and try to kind of estimate that in your manager, you can get a pretty good idea if it’s enough. And also, if you go out in a severe thunderstorm or something- and we don’t demand you to get hurt but if you verify the gutters overflowing, you know that they’re either blocked or they’re exactly not big enough. But that ocean has got to be managed- it comes off that roof.
When it goes down the downspout, that downspout’s got to be extended at least 4 to 6 paws from the foundation. A much of goes, we’ll find that those downspouts are dumping right at the angle of the foundation and then really drops right back into the basement. So get the roof sea under control firstly. That’s the biggest cause of soak cellars right there and the easiest to fix.
LAURA: Oh, is it? OK. So it’s- is it possible to add spurts to your gutter structure or …?
TOM: Yes. And sometimes, you are required to do that. Sometimes, you can add a wider spout. Instead of having a 4-inch downspout, you could have a 6-inch downspout connected to the age-old gutter organization. But you need to make sure you’ve got the downspouts, you’ve got the channels and they’re flowing properly and that removal is well away from the foundation perimeter. Most installers will turn it out about 12 inches at the bottom and applied a sprinkle block there but that’s just not sufficient. You’ve got to move that water well away from the house.
And the second thing is to look at the grading and the angle of the clay at the foundation perimeter and make sure it’s sloping away from the house. It should remove about 4 inches or 6 inches over 4 paws. And if it’s flat or if it’s tilted back into the house or if the score is made up of a lot of mulch or a great deal of stone or if you’ve got a brick scalloped hem that’s propping the ocean against the house, you mostly miss any water that districts in that first 4 hoofs at the foundation perimeter to run away from it. Does that make sense?
LAURA: Yeah, it does. So we would have then that figurehead evaluated away from the foundation? OK. Because I do have some stone here there are still and it’s- we haven’t varied the garden-varieties a good deal, you know, since we’ve been here. But that actually- so there’s nothing to seal in the basement or we don’t need to worry about that?
TOM: Nope. “Theres anything”- there is absolutely nothing to seal. No. What you mostly want to do is exactly what we said. You want to keep the water away. Believe me, it is that easy. In fact, if you go to MoneyPit.com, you will find on the home page an essay about how to fix a leaky basement. And the reason it’s on our home page is because in the 16 -year history of The Money Pit, it’s the most popular article we’ve ever written. It’s had hundreds of thousands of views and batches and lots of commentaries. And it’s had that kind of traffic because it designs. And it’s astonishingly easy to fix.
LAURA: Oh. Well, thanks a lot. Gosh, that’s enormous because I’ve had these sees of lending- trying to add sump pumps and this and that and I was really concerned because the contractors wouldn’t even get back to us that we’ve called and …
TOM: Yep. Not necessary.
LAURA: OK. Well, thanks so much. And I certainly love your show. I listen every weekend when it’s out here, so …
TOM: So glad you do. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, there’s a missing ingredient in most American kitchens and no, it’s not a $7,500 compas or a 4-acre refrigerator. It’s simply good lighting. And a well-lit kitchen, guys, begins with under-cabinet exercise lighting.
Now, these veiled fixtures, which are fairly easy to add to upper-wall lockers, stipulate the countertop with spate of colors, lily-white lighter, which is going to make it easier for everything that you’re doing in there, from dicing veggies to speaking recipes. I mean you’re just going to find that you’re doing much better work in the kitchen when you have the right lighting.
Now, you can also connect these fixtures to a dimmer swap. That gives you the option to have some striking accent lighting or even a nightlight for your midnight snackers out there.
TOM: Now, if you want to forgo the electrical contact absolutely, you can consider attaching ignites that can be plugged into an existing wall outlet or you can consider battery-operated light-coloreds that can be attached and placed. I love this option because a great deal of the brand-new LED explanations are super luminous, they use a tiny bit of energy and they can do a really good job, peculiarly if you want to avoid the hard-wiring.
LESLIE: Alright. We’ve got Arthur in Tennessee on the line who’s dealing with a cover question. What happened?
ARTHUR: Not much. I’m working on a built in old Downtown Johnson City, building in the 1890 s, and trying to strip some brick.
TOM: Superb. OK.
ARTHUR: I’ve divested part of the brick that was done in the 1950 s and had good success. But this is older brick and I’m not even sure- I think it was offset on site and it’s solid and everything. But I wondered what various kinds of modern alternatives were out there for get colour off of brick.
TOM: What did you use to get the paint off of the 1950 s brick?
ARTHUR: I abused a commodity announced Peel Away and it wielded great.
TOM: OK. And did you try the same product on the older brick?
ARTHUR: I’m afraid to use it because it’s got a rougher finish.
TOM: Well, that means you’re going to have more covering of the coat to the surface. But what I would do is I is now trying it in an area that was perhaps a bit less evident, like not at see position. Maybe down towards the bottom or if there’s any other area that “youve been” don’t care as much about.
If you had good success with that special make, I don’t determine any intellect not to continue with it, at least to see what happens. Is this a product that is environmentally friendly? Or do you find that it’s pretty corrosive?
ARTHUR: It says it’s biodegradable and a water-based product but you do wear gauntlets and wear long sleeves. But it’s amazing how it toils. I merely- I’ve had people come by and say, “Well, why aren’t you exerting sand-blasting or dry ice? ” And I didn’t know if that is an option or …
TOM: Well, here’s why you unquestionably can’t use sand-blasting, because those old-fashioned bricks will be damaged by that process. And it’s costly, as well. So I would tell you if the make that you’re applying is working well, I attend no reason not to keep working with that. And I’m not really familiar with dry ice but I can’t imagine that that’s very easy to use. Certainly it’s very difficult to handle and potentially dangerous, as well.
ARTHUR: Well, I don’t see it being- taking off colour very well.
TOM: Yeah. I concur. I’d stick with what you’re working on. If you’ve went very concerned about it, I would definitely try an inconspicuous area, whether that’s the back of the building or the bottom of the building, someplace that you don’t care about as much. We always open that admonition when using a produce like this. And then just go on from there.
ARTHUR: OK. Hey, I certainly appreciate it and I love you guys’ show.
TOM: Well, thanks, Art. Good luck with that project and congratulations. It sounds like it’s going to be a really beautiful build when you’re done.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Louise on the line who’s got some mystery blots on a mailbox. What’s going on?
LOUISE: OK, I have a brick mailbox and it seems to have salt situates leaking through the outside of it.
TOM: Is it in the way of a lawn sprinkler, by any chance?
LOUISE: No, it isn’t.
TOM: Because, often, what happens is if it gets groundwater splashed on it- and that can happen if you have sprinklers and holes- a good deal of mineral salts in there that will dry and basically adhere to the outside.
You know, what’s happening here is you are seeing some sort of mineral deposits and you’re going to have to clean it. And the best way to clean it, believe it or not, is to mix up a vinegar-and-water solution. Because vinegar softens the salts.
TOM: So you can mix them up in a pail, splashing it down with a neat, soft-bristle brush, rub it. And that should constitute those disappear. They may come back but the other thing that you could think about do, formerly it gets delightful and baked and clean, is implemented a masonry sealer to it. And if you use a silicone-based masonry sealer, you want to get one that’s vapor-permeable so it doesn’t trap the sea underneath the sealer surface. This gives it breathe and stops it from cracking and chipping. But that should slow down the demo up of any added salt stains.
LOUISE: Well, thank you so, so much better. I’ll do that.
TOM: Alright, Louise. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Darren in Virginia, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
DARREN: Yes. I’m trying to convert my lavatory from regular water in the house to a torrent- 265 -gallon rain barrel outside. So, piping it in underneath my home I had the CPVC, the smaller stuff. So what I was wondering is: do I have to filter that sea? And if I gush it in there, what is the max PSI that I should use?
TOM: Are you putting a run on it?
DARREN: I’m going to have a solar shoot on it.
TOM: Alright. So first of all , no, you don’t have to filter toilet water because it’s waste water. It’s gray water. So it can go straight in.
Secondly, how much influence do you need? Well, I guess that’s really going to depend on the toilet but I would think most irrigate influence in a house is going to be anywhere between 50 and 70 pounds. So that’s probably what your toilet’s used to working with.
And thirdly, you want to make sure- I know it’s- I represent it’s a great thing you’re doing trying to use rainwater for all this but let’s not forget the obvious: make sure your toilet itself is efficient. Bathroom today can use as little as about 1.3 gallons of water per flush. So if you’d have an older toilet, you might want to upgrade it so you’d need even less water for the flushing mechanism.
DARREN: Alright. Well, that’s something to think about, also.
TOM: What other light-green improves are you inducing to the house?
DARREN: This actually all started with- I lay in a drinking organisation for my pigs.
TOM: OK. Oh, you’ve got a farm there?
DARREN: I have a farm. I have a small farm in Damascus, Virginia and we piped, in the stallings, imbibing nipples for the swine because they saved spilling all their water. So now, they are totally self-sufficient. They have a solar-powered pump at 40 PSI going to these nipples and it’s coming off of their roof into a downpour cask that feeds it.
TOM: Wow. So this is a natural propagation of that? And if it’s good enough for the pigs, I guess it’s going to be good enough for your residence plumbing system, as well.
DARREN: Yeah, yeah. I surely want to try to do as much as I can with Mother Nature before I have to depend on somebody else.
TOM: Alright. Well, it makes a lot of sense.
Darren, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, with U.S. residence expenditures still rising, it can be very tempting to look for a good deal by buying a home that’s been foreclosed. Now, it’s not a bad room to get a potential price break but there are lots of pros and cons that you’ve got to consider before you take that plunge.
Now, here are some pros. You’ve got a lower cost and that’s truly- the biggest advantage of buying a home in a foreclosure situation is the price. Because they’re being sold under duress, the foreclosed-upon homes are typically cheaper than analogous homes in these areas. Secondly, you’re going to have caused sellers.
Now, the lenders don’t want to own foreclosed owneds and “re looking for” a lane to move them quickly. And some lenders will actually beautify the owned or even oblige some restores to get it to sell. And there’s really a good chance for you to build some equity now. If you’re buying a cheaper residence that it is necessary redevelopment, you’ve got a chance to increase your equity much when you secure it up.
Products like the FHA 203( k) mortgage is to be able to help you. Now, this mortgage offers fairly fund to buy the house and then likewise rehab that property.
TOM: Ah, yes. But it’s not all sunny days and develops. There are some cons.
First of all, the dimensions are almost always sold as is. If you buy a residence out of foreclosure, it means that you get the house warts and all. And some foreclosed homes have sever structural issues or code breaches that can cost you a lot of coin to fix. Keep in mind that homeowners that are being evicted are likely to have either abused the home or certainly have not had the money to pay for needed repairs.
Also, expenditures are rising. While you still can get a substantial discount when you buy a foreclosed property, the discount situation is shrinking. If you look at the prices that are fetched on Auction.com, they sold more than 50,000 foreclosed and bank-owned properties in 2019. It reached a new high that year and the prices are still going up.
And lastly, the dwelling may never actually go up for sale. If you’ve got your eye on a residence – you’re thinking, “Great, it’s in foreclosure; I’m going to wait until it goes on sale and buy it”- keep in mind it could take months or even years for that to happen, if it ever does. Most regimes afford homeowners numerous, many possibilities, which they should, to catch back up on their mortgages.
But I think if you can adjust your programme, you have the patience, the time and the expectations accordingly, buying a foreclosed home going to be able be a pretty good deal.
If you want more tips, we’ve got a great post about merely that. It’s simply titled: “Is it Bad to Buy a Foreclosed Home? ” And that’s on MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Kay in Arkansas is on the line and needs some cure deepening a wall surface.
What’s going on, Kay?
KAY: Well, it is a sturdy home. Clinker block. Probably really that thick-skulled but it has the brick on the outside. But the inside, I would just like something a bit more pleasant to look at.
TOM: OK. That meets smell. So, are we talking about a basement here?
KAY: Nope. This is an above-ground. It is a cabin on the pool property.
TOM: So you need a cover that can cover the masonry-block walls.
KAY: Well, a dye or a stucco or something that opens it a different quality than a cinder-block look.
TOM: Kay, the process of coating the interior walls isn’t as much stucco as it is plastering. So what has to happen is that wall surface has to be covered with a stratum of plaster, much in the same way they used to build plaster walls many, many years ago in, say, the 30 s or the 40 s. In fact, in the late 40 s, they used to plaster right over drywall and that was one of the best wall interpretations ever. So those are the options that you have to choose from.
Doing the plaster is probably not the job you want to do as your first DIY project. But if you work with a plastering companionship- somebody who does this every day- they would have the skills to start the plaster look nice and smooth and have an alluring surface without certainly taking up much seat, in areas of it getting too thick.
KAY: Right, right. So that’s strange. I have plaster walls on my home at home.
TOM: Oh, well, perhaps they’re going to follow you to the new house.
KAY: Yeah. OK.
TOM: Kay, good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if you’d like your home to be more energy-efficient, one of the first things that you need to do is stop squander the power you already have. And isolation is the key to doing just that.
Now, approximately 40 percent of the average home’s energy usage is attributed to heating and cooling. So, anything that you can do to lower the amount of energy your HVAC system gives is going to help you lower those costs. Insulation is your home’s best justification against high-pitched heating and cooling costs and it’s going to keep heat from escaping your residence. But it can also seal air seeps to make sure that your HVAC system is not consume intensity by pumping air outside.
TOM: Now, when choosing insulation, you’ve got a few options. Fiberglass in the cloak kind is- or the release sort- has been the standard insulation material for years. And with the proper protection, you can definitely install fiberglass insulation yourself. The loose-fill or cellulose insulation is made from recycled cloths, stimulating it extremely environmentally friendly as an option but that has to be installed by a pro.
LESLIE: Yeah. And scatter sud is the most modern type of insulation and as the name intimates, it’s sprayed onto the walls where it then rapidly expands to fill every single nook and cranny. And scatter foam isn’t going to sag or slide down over duration like other insulation cloths. And it can actually improve a home’s air quality by reducing outdoor allergens or pollutants that could come in.
TOM: Now, we’ve had a very good experience with spray-foam insulation in our 130 -plus-year-old house. We referred it to the back side of the attic rafters and the attic gable walls and all of the box beam- that’s where the members of this house thumps the foundation- the whole way around. And I tell you what, it was an amazing improvement in the cavity. And the summer months, when it got to be 100 -plus stages out, I had a number of occasions to go up in the attic where it was a pleasant, I’d say, 75. It never went super hot up there because it’s just so well segregated. So we really like spraying foam.
But it has to be applied by a pro because, mostly, when it’s pertained there is a special truck that comes that mixtures two parts together, kind of like a part A and a part B, and then it’s sprayed. And the second thing that spray foam gives you is it expands at about a 100:1 rate. So that when it’s put on, it expands. It seals every cranny and cranny, which is so important because that helps stop all the air leakage that also contributes hugely to your intensity loss.
So those are your options and now’s a great time for you to look into them.
LESLIE: Heading over to Illinois. Gail has got an issue with airflow at the roofline. What’s going on?
GAIL: Well, my home is a pole-barn created home, 3 years old, all metal, on 4 paws up off the anchor. And my heating pipe and the air-conditioning, it’s all in the ceiling. And I have high ceilings- vaulted ceilings. And I’m having trouble with settlement. It’s settling, as far as I’m concerned, way too much and I don’t know if there’s- in the tape that- from between the canal videotape that there was still- not the canal videotape but the tape in the …
TOM: Yeah, the drywall videotape. Yeah. So you’re going some cracking and some movement in that ceiling area, Gail?
GAIL: Oh, yeah. I know I’ve get campaign in the members of this house because there’s – you are well aware, it’s all open.
TOM: Right. Mm-hmm.
GAIL: And I know there’s not walls. The whole thing’s in place.
GAIL: So, therefore, I’m going to get some. But this one that concerns me is in the back because- my son’s in creation and he said, “Well, you don’t have it ventilated out. It could be a damp problem up there.” I had my contractor come out today and take a look at it and there’s no dampness in because they spray with some sort of a solvent that adheres to the floor- I intend up on the ceiling and around the sides and it seals it in. And my son was concerned that- he says, “Well, where’s the breath expres? ” I said, “Well, I guess we don’t have one.”
TOM: OK. So let me give you some background information on this type of an work. So, it sounds like your home has been insulated with spray foam. It’s an excellent product. In fact, I have it in my own live. And “if youre using” a spray-foam application, you do not- do not- show the attic. You exclusively vent the attic if you’re exploiting a batt separation, like fiberglass or cellulose or mineral coat. In those cases, you need to vent the attic because it carts moisture out. When “youre using” spray foam, your attic is not an unconditioned attic; it’s become a conditioned attic. And so in that case, you do not expres it.
I don’t think your problem is a lack of ventilation. In fact, I’m sure of that with a spray-foam house. I think what you’re describing to me is normal expansion and constriction in a newer residence. Those types of situations where the drywall strip loosens up and hits and pulls apart, quite typical in that particular type of scenario.
Now, the mend on this has to be done in such a way that you’re not just sort of lay back what’s there. You need to pull off the liberate videotape, all of it. Cut it away. And then you’re going to gently sand that area. And then you’re going to apply a type of drywall tape that’s perforated and made of fiberglass. It looks like webbing. And it’s tacky, so you are eligible to mostly attach it on across the crack. And then you articulated three coatings of spackle over that. And what that tends to do is bridge the gap across that seam much better than exactly paper videotape would and hopefully stop the crack from reforming.
So you can’t simply try to respackle what’s there. It’ll only preserve depicting through again and again and again. You need to take off the liberate tape and supplant it with the perforated tape and then refinish it, prime it, decorate it and you’re done.
LESLIE: Remember, you can always post your question to MoneyPit.com, just like Ed from New Jersey did. Now, Ed writes: “I want to have a storm door and an exterior entrance combination lay. What commodity information can you give me? ”
TOM: Well, first and foremost, Ed, you don’t truly need a blizzard doorway anymore. The exterior entrances today are so much more energy-efficient than they ever used to be that they simply don’t require a “storm door” in order to keep the door closed. What you could use is a screen door for sure but you surely don’t need a hurricane door.
In calls of exterior doorways, I would recommend any of the fiberglass exterior openings, because they are more energy-efficient than the timber openings. They’re about five times more energy-efficient. And then what I would do is I would select a very attractive, full-height screen door to go in front of it. Yes, you’ll need to leave the screen in year-round but heck, why not? If you’re creative, you could figure out a style to take it off in the off-season but I don’t genuinely think you have to. And I considered that that combining is exactly what you’re going to need. But you don’t need a squall opening to keep it airtight.
And also, if you have a storm door what will happen, peculiarly if you have glass bodies on that exterior entrance, that gust doorway when it gets hot from the sunshine hitting it, you get the greenhouse effect and it develops the temperature so much that it will soften- literally softened- some of that vinyl trimming around the door. And sometimes it can determine your handles so hot that if you grab it from the other side, you have been able burn your hand.
LESLIE: Geez, Louise. Well I hope that helps you out, Ed. There’s so many beautiful entrance hand-pickeds out there. You’re bound to find something that works beautifully for your type of home.
TOM: Well, when temperatures cease, mice, rats and other rodents love to make their way into your cozy home for relief from the chill. Leslie has tips-off to keep them from doing just that, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Yeah, you are well aware, it’s not as easy as hanging a no-vacancy sign but you are eligible to manufacture some converts that’ll keep mouse and critters is moving forward and away from your house and then searching out that next insect refuge which, hopefully, is still not your house.
Now, mouse can pinch through rooms smaller than a nickel, so you’ve got to seal any potential access to your residence with sheet metal, steel wool or cement. Those expandable-foam insulations, they are able to gnawed through. So if you make that itinerary, you want to make sure you included some sword hair to the mix so that they can’t chew through it.
And think about your babies, people. Your dog and your “cat-o-nine-tail”, they’re not the only animal that’s going to come running at the smell of pet food. Wet or dry, it’s certainly pulling to rodents, extremely. I entail so seducing that they’ll ruminated through heavy-duty food handbags for little bit. So you want to make sure you save cool baby nutrient in sealed, metal canisters and clean out pet-food bowls before heading to bed every single night. Go ahead and give your kitchen counters and tables a neat erase cleanse every evening. This behavior, you get rid of slivers and anything that could seem like an outdoor animal’s treat.
And while it doesn’t seem to help their IQ, critters like newspapers and magazines as much as we do, so be disposed of loads of papers and cardboard that mice and rodents can turn into really nice nesting sites.
It’s a lot of substance but if you keep working these sort of daily-routine things, it’s emphatically going to go a long way to keep those rodents out.
So, go on, if you want some more opinion, to MoneyPit.com. There you can find some more mixtures for all of the areas of your home, inside and out.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the programme, if you’ve ever had a major gale knock your live, you know that a home which usually safe and sound and assured can pretty much quickly turn into a leaking mess. That’s why after the blizzard surpasses it’s really important to give your house a very careful inspection. We’ll explain what needs to be looked at, on the next copy of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t is therefore necessary to make love alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No component of this transcript or audio datum may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Productions, Inc .)
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