A warm fire from a wood stove or fireplace includes comfort and to a chilly winter date. But did you know that not all firewood gives these levels of heat. We’ll share tips on how to select the best firewood for solace and security, come through here.
Whether your furnace is shot or you’re ready for a more efficient upgrade, a new furnace should never be an impulse buy. But too often, that’s exactly what does happen- peculiarly if your furnace yields out in the middle of winter! We’ll explain how to shop furnaces the smart way.Tis’ the season- the season for selecting a Christmas tree. But if you’re a family who always croaks for the real tree, you might be surprised to learn how much a forge tree can also look like the real thing- we’ll share tips-off from our holiday tree buying steer, including some fun new illuminate options.If you own an old residence with chilly, drafty walls- adding insulation can seem like a difficult job. We share tricks of the trade to segregate finished walls without damaging walls in the process.
Plus, provide answers to your residence increase questions about, Installing a new breast door, how to replace a leaky shower go, correct drainage problems, proper way to repaint bathroom boards
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question here.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Here to assist you, amongst all the holiday festivities, get ready for the visitors that are coming, get ready to spruce up your live, decorate your live, mean a project for the new year. If you’ve got a task you’d like to get done, if you’ve got something that you’ve simply been trying to get to, as we’ve all been securing our residences up with all the time we’re spending home, but you only don’t know where to begin, begin right here by scream us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
You can also post your question to MoneyPit.com or announce it to our Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.
Here’s a great topic, Leslie, to start the show off with. Let’s talk about firewood. Wouldn’t you like to have some of that burning in your fireplace?
LESLIE: Yeah. And a big, neat mound to store for the rest of the winter?
TOM: Absolutely. But here’s the thing about firewood: a lot of kinfolks don’t know that not all firewood extradites these levels of hot. And in fact, if you have selected the wrong firewood, you are able to not get much heat out of it at all. Plus, it can actually be dangerous for the equipment and thus, your house. So we’re going to have some tips-off on how to choose the perfect firewood, coming up.
LESLIE: And speaking of heat, whether your furnace is shot or you’re ready for a more efficient upgrade, a new furnace should never be an impulse buy. But too often, that’s exactly what does happen, peculiarly if your furnace contributes out in the middle of winter. We’re going to explain how you should be shopping for furnaces the smart way.
TOM: And it’s the season: the season for selecting a Christmas tree or a holiday tree, to be politically correct. But hey, if you’re a family who always croaks for the real tree, you might be surprised to learn how much a fake tree can also look like the real thing. We’re going to share some gratuities from our holiday-tree buying guide, including some fun, new illuminate alternatives to consider.
LESLIE: And we’re giving away one of my favorite tools that’s going to handle a lot of different projects. I’m talking about the Arrow GT3 00 Glue Gun. It is so well-designed and really easy to use and we’ve got one to give away.
TOM: All you need to do is reach out with your DIY or home decoration question and we’ll toss your specify in The Money Pit hard hat. And we might be sending you that very fun, new glue gun.
Call us right now. That number, again, is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Carol in Texas is working on a decorate projection. How can we lend a hand?
CAROL: We are depicting our shower lockers. They are- they were put in the bathroom in 1980 -something. I’m not absolutely convinced the time. We bought the members of this house- the people lived in it 28 years and we’ve been here virtually 9 years. And they’re kind of a maple shade and they’re not very attractive. I’ve worked that Orange Glo on them trying to start them look better. I don’t know what they used on them. Probably Liquid Gold or something trying to bring out the sheen.
But it’s precisely approximately beyond the point. And I’d like to have new cabinets but when we do, we’re probably going to have to redo the whole bathroom, so we decided we would paint them various kinds of an off-white color.
What we want to know is: what’s the coming to uttering that coat stay on?
LESLIE: Now, you said that cabinet ministers are a maple color. Are they actually wood and they’re discoloured?
CAROL: Yeah, that’s the stain on them. They’re stained.
LESLIE: So they’re stained grove. It’s not like a Thermofoil that looks a lot like wood or a laminate? It’s wood.
CAROL: No, it’s real grove. They’re real wood cabinets.
LESLIE: Now, if they’ve been stained and restained over the course of a couple of years and you’ve got a lot of membranes of a clean on there, your best bet would be- and this is how I would kind of tackle it. I would remove the doors and the drawer figureheads, being very careful about labeling which travels where, you know? A little section of painter’s tape on the back side and a little piece on the hinge saying, “-AA, ” or “1- 1, ” just so you know exactly where things go back.
And I would leave the hinges either on the door or on the box. It’s kind of easier to leave them on the box, just for painting publishes. And this channel, you know exactly where everything goes back; that just various kinds of maintains things tidy.
And then, you really need to get some of that sheen off. So you could do it a couple of different ways. You could use something that’s like a liquid sandpaper that you clean on, that comes rid of some of that brightnes. But if it’s a super-high gloss and they’ve been oiled or improved over the years and they’re awfully sort of gunked up, virtually, with a lot of finish on them, you may want to sand them down a little bit. Because you need to get down to something that’s a little bit not so glossy and so built up from years of cleaning and really the yuck that happens in the shower, just so that you’ve got a surface that the paint’s going to see stick to.
And formerly you’ve done that to the doors or drawer breasts and the boxes themselves in the shower, you need to prime it is a good one with a high-quality primer. I would use KILZ or Zinsser- one of those that’ll stick extremely, very well- let that baked very thoroughly and then go ahead with your topcoat draw. And because it’s in a shower and because it’s a high-moisture area and it’s something that you’re going to want to be cleaning a lot, I would go with a glossy finish and an petroleum cornerstone if I can get my hands on one. If not, a glossy latex will do the trick but more durable, of course, would be the lubricant base.
CAROL: Thank you and I regard your help.
TOM: Carol, good luck with that assignment. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. Now we’re heading over to John in Iowa who’s dealing with a leaky shower. Tell us what’s going on.
JOHN: Well, I’ve got a shower on my primary floor, where it basically discloses onto the floor in the cellar. And when I removed the 2-inch catch- this is a home that was built in’ 41 but it’s been remodeled recently, probably within the last 10 years or at least the shower has- I noticed there wasn’t a whole lot of chamber between the tile and the flooring or the central wood behind it, as well as they sealed up the pump. It was mostly exactly a 2-inch PVC closed with some sort of cement and then a duct sounded on top of it.
And I’m curious- I mean how can I remedy this issue? Obviously, it needs a proper drain. But I couldn’t find anything to fit the hole that they had.
TOM: Alright. Well, first of all, it’s still spilling and you’re in the middle of this project? Is that correct, John?
JOHN: Well, I merely bought this home and I mostly said, “OK. We’re not applying this shower. We have an upstairs shower that we can use during the remediation process.”
TOM: Is this a tile shower?
TOM: So, with a 1940 tile shower, the first thing I would expect to opening is the lead-in pan. And the direction those showers are built is there’s a pas go lay in against the exhaust, then the tile is put on top of the pas. And so, over the years, those pans would crack. And the way you research a head pan is simply by obstruct the shower drainage and then filling up the bottom of the shower with as much water as you can get in there- generally 4 or 5 inches of liquid- and then wait and meet what happens.
So if it’s possible for you to test the pan, I would do that before I start be supposed that the leakage was at the drain. Because it might very well be that the pump is not leaking; the go is disclosing. And if that’s the action, then you have to tear out the shower base and rehabilitate it.
JOHN: Ah, I receive. Alright.
TOM: It’s the produce pan. Because a pan that’s 60, 70 years old, they just don’t last-place that long.
TOM: OK? So seal it off, experiment it off. You know what works well? One of those – you are well aware those rubber cup openers that are about 6 inches in diameter?
TOM: Put that across the drain, fill it up with ocean and then watch for a leak.
JOHN: Alright. I’ll try that.
TOM: OK, John. Good luck. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
You know, Leslie, in the 20 years I spent as a home inspector, I used to check those pans for seeps all the time that nature and we got – you get smart-alecky after the first time this happens to you- is that you never tell that ocean sit very long. You fill it up, you go downstairs immediately and see if it’s leaking.
LESLIE: It’s that fast when you’ve got a crack in the wash?
TOM: Sometimes, yes. Because if it’s going to leak- if it’s a bad fissure, you- it may never have been discovered or it might have been so sluggish. But by occupy the whole pan up with irrigate, you prove it very quickly that it’s leaking. So that’s why we always check very quickly to see if there’s a divulge. And then if not, fill it up, make it sit here for a half-hour and go back and check again.
But it’s a extremely, very common area for a leakage and regrettably, a very costly one because if you think about it, you’ve got to tear out all that tile and you’ve got to rebuild that go. And today, of course, we don’t use lead-in; we often use fiberglass. But it’s a pretty big renovation. Probably a duet thousand bucks worth of work.
LESLIE: Well , no matter when you listen to The Money Pit, you can always get in on some recreation giveaways and today is no exception. We’ve got a great tool up for grabs. We’re giving away the Arrow GT3 00 Glue Gun.
Now, both Tom and I have one of these and we adore it because it hots up super fast and it’s got a drip-resistant nozzle. It’s going to fit right in your hand, so it’s not going to make your hand tired when you prevent mashing the cement shoot on the bigger projects. So it’s really helpful so you can get a lot of things done quickly.
And the snout is designed to help you get into those hard-to-reach recess, so you’re not going to waste a lot of glue or run it all over yourself trying to get those projects done.
TOM: It’s worth 49 horses. Croaking out to one listener proceeded at random. Make that you. But if you’d like to win it, you’ve got to be in it. So call us with your residence increase question at 888 -MONEY-PIT or announce it to MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Now we’ve got Cynthia from South Dakota on the line who’s got a question about a firewall. Tell us what you’re working on.
CYNTHIA: I have an age-old house and I’ve been rending out the plaster walls. And I attained, along this one wall- assure, the whole entire house is this pretty durable and hard plaster-board stuff. And I was wondering if that is a firewall, because that seems to be where all the cold-air returns and trash are and if I should or should not rip it out. And if I do lash it out, is there a certain kind of drywall that I should use there?
TOM: Where is this wall unearthed exactly?
CYNTHIA: It could have been on the outside of the house at one point but it’s for the purposes of the furnace.
TOM: Well, first of all, the only place that you typically would have a firewall- in other words, a fire-rated wall with a certain rating- is between the garage and the house. All the other walls and ceilings within the residences are- usually have traditional, 1/2 -inch drywall. If it’s an exterior- an interior/ exterior wall- an inside surface of an exterior wall, like a garage wall, then you would use a 5/8 -inch-thick, fire-rated drywall. But all of the other places in the house, you’d have regular plaster card- I’m sorry, regular drywall.
CYNTHIA: OK. Have you ever seen this plaster board before?
TOM: Well, sure. Now, how old-time is the home?
CYNTHIA: I believe it was built in 1896?
TOM: See, there’s different stages of wall construction. In 1896, you would have had something announced “wood lath, ” so there would be wood deprives on the wall and then plaster put on top of that.
CYNTHIA: Yep. That’s on the majority of members of the walls. But this one particular wall- which could have been an outside wall at one point; I’m not sure exactly- it’s like in 2-foot strips.
TOM: Yeah, OK. So that’s a last-minute add-on. And what they did with that is when they stopped squandering lumber lath, they started using rock lath or – you would think of sheetrock in those 2-foot-wide airstrips? They positioned that on and then embraced that with wet plaster. So that’s exactly a more modern version of the practice walls were erected. So it moved from wood lath to rock lath to sheetrock. That’s, basically, the progression of wall building over, roughly, the last hundred years.
CYNTHIA: OK. Well, thank you.
TOM: A little lesson on construct autobiography. Hope that clears it up for you.
CYNTHIA: Yeah. Alright. Thank you.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, a warm fire from a wood stove or a hearth really is the hallmark of the season but you do have to be careful when you’re choosing the firewood. Now, the wrong oil can shatter your wood-burning stove or even leave hazardous creosote on the walls of the fireplace chimney.
Now, you never want to burn trash, driftwood or even considered groves. And ever use seasoned lumber for the best heat release and minimal creosote buildup. That’s going to help prevent the chances of a chimney fire.
TOM: Yeah, there’s a difference. Freshly-cut wood contains up to about 45 -percent water. But seasoned grove, which is wood that’s sat out for a while, is only 20 – to 25 -percent and hence, it burns better. The harder the grove likewise the better. So that’s why you want to burn oak or maple and not pine or fir. The harder the lumber actually contributes off more BTUs, so “youve had” more power, it takes longer to burn and then it gives people much more hot as a result.
LESLIE: Yeah. And you also want to make sure that the lumber is cool. It’s got to have been cut at least 6 months before you’re planning on using it. Even a year is going to be better. It just takes that much time and sunbathe and gale to remove that excess moisture.
TOM: Yeah. And splitting it also facilitates but you can’t split it straight off. I mean you could but frequently, if you wait a little bit it actually separates a little better. So splitting the grove will also help make it baked faster, because it gives you more surface area, so you get more evaporation.
LESLIE: Larry in Ohio is on the line with a heating question. How can we help you?
LARRY: Yes. I’ve got a house- it’s 6,000 square paw- and they segmented the utilities up into two separate lives. And right now, I have a hot-water tank that we use all the time and we have a hot-water tank that sits on the side that the kitchen is on, that is only used throughout the dishwasher.
And I’m wondering, would I be better off to get me a tankless hot-water tank or only deal with the electric? I’ve got an electric, 50 -gallon one. I don’t know which one is even more cost-efficient.
TOM: So, the only thing that you’re expend that water heater for, on that side of the house, is the dishwasher? And that’s a 50 -gallon water heater?
LARRY: But like I say, the members of this house was actually set up to be a bed and breakfast.
TOM: If the one thing that sea heater is serving is the dishwasher and there’s no way to get that dishwasher fed off of the other water heater, you time need a very small water heater for that dishwasher and I signify a 20 -gallon electric or something like that. Genuinely small-minded. Because there’s truly not much water that it needs to heat and it would be foolish to have it heating 50 gallons, 40 gallons of sea, 24/7, when you really don’t need it except to dry recipes and I presume, to run the kitchen sink.
So a very small electric ocean heater, perhaps even on a timer so that it exclusively kicks on maybe in the evening hours when you’re consuming that dishwasher, would be the smart thing to be done here and the least expensive way to both reinstalling the new water heater and to run the brand-new sea heater. OK?
LARRY: OK. Actually, there’s two lavatories that are also secured to this but it’s time the idea right now- we’re not squandering it. We’ve got two showers on the other side of the chamber of representatives, too.
TOM: OK. Well, that’s different. That’s different. If “youve had” two bathrooms- full lavatories?
LARRY: Yes. Full bathrooms.
TOM: Well, then, OK, so that’s different. If there’s a full- two full showers- I’d asked you if it was just the dishwasher and “youve said”, “Yes.” But if it’s two full showers on it, then you do need a larger water heater. And again, I is very likely recommend- if you’re not abusing it that are frequently, I’d probably recommend an electric water heater, in that situation, on a timer.
TOM: But you’ll probably need more like a 40 -gallon.
LARRY: Actually, on the tankless ones, I’ve noticed the different amount of sea per minute.
TOM: Yeah, well- but you- do you have gas? Do you have natural gas?
LARRY: I’ve got propane.
TOM: You have propane? Well, you could use a tankless sea heater. The station cost will be a lot higher. It does deliver you, 24/7, incessant equips of hot water. Except in that side of the chamber of representatives, again, you’re not really apply those bathrooms that much, so that’s not as big of a concern to you.
That’s why I’m suggesting a minimum, inexpensive electric ocean heater for that. At least you’ll maintain your dwelling significance. Because if you didn’t have adequate- an adequate water heater to supply those two showers plus the dishwasher, your dwelling significance would suffer. But I wouldn’t undoubtedly recommend you put in a $1,500 tankless, because I really don’t think it’s going to be cost-effective for you.
LARRY: OK. That was my big question right there: would it be cost-effective( ph )?
TOM: So, Leslie, I think that the gathering often thinks that absolutely nothing goes wrong with our residences, so I want to prove them to be absolutely wrong in that respect. We had a plumbing disaster. Well, I wouldn’t say it’s an emergency. It could have been but it was an inconvenience.
I’ve got these American Standard Champion toilets in my home, which I adore because the darn things precisely don’t clog. With my big-hearted kinfolk, that’s saying a good deal. But the flush valve actually started to leak and it was running. And in true species, I figured, “Ah, it’s merely the seal. It’s really the gasket. I’ll merely fix that lickety-split.” I happened to have additionals because I’m ever readied, right?
So, I go to take it apart and the part flush-valve structure exactly mostly comes apart in my hand, because it was just worn or cracked or whatever. And I’m like, “Uh-oh.” Turned a small problem into a much bigger problem, determining it worse. It’s not the kind of part you can go to the home center and pick up.
Thankfully, Amazon, when you succession your redden valves on Sunday, hands them on Monday. It’s amazing.
LESLIE: Oh, that’s fantastic.
TOM: So, in the meantime, to stop the toilet from flowing, I jerry-rigged this shoelace and paper clip to hold the blush valve in the closed position and I hung it up to the towel bar. And I taught my partner and two daughters how to operate the toilet for that evening.
LESLIE: Oh, my goodness.
TOM: So, they were able to use it for the darknes and not have it roll all darknes long. But yeah, it happens and we get these emergencies and we have to fix our substance, very. So there.
LESLIE: Well , now that we’re in the midst of winter, having a solid, dependable heating system really is critical. But if your furnace is shot or perhaps you’re thinking of upgrading to a more efficient model, a new furnace should never be an impulse buy. You know, too often that’s exactly what happens, extremely if your furnace passes out in the middle of winter.
So, Tom, let’s talk through some things that you should be thinking about now so we’re be allowed to make a smart-alecky plan.
Now, first of all, if a separated furnace- is it ever worth repairing or do you think it’s simply better to change it? How do you know where to sort of stop and begins with that?
TOM: Like a lot of appliances in your live, it truly comes down to the cost of the amend and persons under the age of the contraption and the health risks of future outage. But when you’re talking about a furnace, OK- and simply to kind of set the stage, everybody calls their heating system- “Hey, what’s that thing called to heat your live? ” It’s a furnace. Well, it’s a furnace if it burns hot air, right? So we’re talking about if you have forced-air systems, that’s a furnace. If you have radiators, that’s a boiler. So we’re not talking about that.
But with the furnaces, the basic element of that that meets it succeed and safe and is practically impossible to oust is something called the “heat exchanger.” It’s a big internal area. And if that fissures, it’s unsafe to use; it has to be replaced right away. So, something fatal like that you surely have to fix it.
Now, if it was something like- let’s say the blower departed, right? The blower “couldve been”, I don’t know, say, a $500 restore. If I got a 20 -something-year-old furnace, I’m not going to replace that blower and spend 500 bucks on it because I is a well-known fact that no sooner do I do that, a month last-minute the hot exchanger might crack and then I kind of squandered my 500 horses. So it really is a question of how old-fashioned is it based on how long we are looking forward it to previous- which is 20, 25 with a heating system- and what the cost is. And you simply kind of manufacture the call from there.
LESLIE: Now, what if you’re certainly just thinking about- “Oh, I should supplant my heating system because I want to save some energy.” How do you kind of determine when that decision stirs sense and really, how much of a benefit you’re going to get from it?
TOM: I guess the key is this: how long are you going to live in that house? I had a friend of mine entitle me the other day and she required some advice on whether she’d paint her vinyl surfacing or supplant the siding. And I said, “Well, is this your life house or not? ” In other oaths, are you going to be here for the duration of whatever decision we make right now? Because that’s the key, right? If this is something that’s like – you’re going to sell this house in a year or two and move on, you can make a decision based on a whole different decide of facts.
But if you’re going to be there for the next 20 times, that’s going to sway you towards perhaps spending a little more money now, because you’ll have more time to get it back. And I recall the same thing applies to a heating system. If you’re going to be there for the life of that organisation and it’s going to cost more for a higher-efficiency system, I’m going to buy the higher-efficiency system.
We have what certainly is the life house now and I talked about this on the substantiate the other week. I got three calculates. One was twice as much as the other two, so that guy got tossed out. But that’s a big improvement. It’s a $7,000 /$ 8,000 update but we’re going to be here for a while. So, we’re cool with that. And in that case, it was an easy decision.
LESLIE: Now, I pot there’s so many different things that you need to be considering when you are in the market for that brand-new furnace. What should you be looking at accurately to know that it’s the right thing?
TOM: Well, you have to try to cut through the marketing speak and look at this- the exertion standards. And one rating you should be considering is the AFUE rating, which is the annual fuel used effectivenes, a conception route of saying, “How efficient is this system? How much coin is it going to save me, right? ”
The minimum AFUE in the U.S. is about 80 percentage now but it comes to 97, 98 percentage. But the higher it is, the more expensive they are. And if you’re going to be in a house longer, that means you have more time to kind of have that make sense.
So, if it’s a short-term situation, perhaps you don’t need a high-efficiency because you will never, ever make up the difference in increased cost. But if you’re there for the long-term, you certainly would.
LESLIE: Now, what about if you’re in the market for the brand-new furnace? Should you also potentially consider a different fuel source at this time? Or is that merely room too big of an enterprise?
TOM: Yeah, great question. I convey the only reason you might want to consider a fuel-source change is if you’re on- say you’re on petroleum and you have an underground oil tank and you’ve been just looking for a good reason to get rid of it. This is a great reason to get rid of it and switch to gas. We did that.
But in terms of other buttons, it generally doesn’t make sense to change fuels. Certainly, you are able to never alter if you had natural gas; that’s the most efficient. Now, if you have electric and there’s an opportunity to bring in natural gas, that’s something I would definitely consider, as well. If you can get a more efficient, less expensive fuel, it’s smarter to represent that deepen but not just for the sense of making a change. There’s got to be an economic benefit to it.
LESLIE: Cindy in Illinois is on the line with a vault question. What’s going on?
CINDY: I lived in my home for over 40 times and had no trouble with water in the basement. And then, about three years ago, we had a frightful shortage here and it seems like ever since then, if we get a hard-bitten torrent, I be brought to an end with sea come through here through the storey of the basement.
TOM: So, the reason you’re getting liquid that comes up through the flooring of the cellar in a hard downpour is because there’s some imperfection in your sewage positions outside the chamber of representatives. So, you need to start by looking at the ceiling and inducing sure your gutter system is clean and forming sure the downspouts are given away from the house. It is advisable to out 3 or 4 feet.
If that’s all in good shape, then I would take a look at the tilt of the grease around the house, the gradation. If it’s really flat or if there’s an area where it’s tilting in or you’re getting neighboring water from runoff from a different plenty or something of that quality, you’ve got to get regrade to keep the spray away from the house.
The only way it’s getting down there is it’s coming from the top and propagandizing under. It’s not a rising water table, because that makes months to happen. If it’s reactive to the rain, then it’s a problem with sewage, Cindy. So you need to look carefully in that area and I’m specific you’ll find the cause of it and be able to stop it.
Alright. Good luck with that programme. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, for countless families, Christmas trees are the beautiful centerpiece of their celebration decoration. But live trees, let’s face it, they can be a ton of work. And that’s one conclude lots of parties are taking a second look at artificial trees, you know? Because these fake trees today, they examine more like the real thing, sometimes, than the real thing I recall. They’re better built and they volunteer a lot of different options, like built-in lighting so you can get to hanging the decorates a heck of a lot faster.
LESLIE: Yeah. But you know what? There’s so many forms and options available for those artificial Christmas trees that determining the excellent one for your family can really be overwhelming. So, to help you make sure that you’re realizing the best choice, here’s what you really need to know.
Now, first of all, you’ve got to decide on the type of tree. Now, artificial trees can look like they’ve been plucked fresh from the forest, dusted with new snowfall. There’s really lots of types out there but let’s talk about the four main ones: fir, yearn, spruce or flocked.
Now, the fir trees are going to have a bushy, full figure and that’s going to make them a great choice. If you want to go light on decorates because they’re going to be so full, they’re not going to look bare even when they’re just sparsely decorated.
Now, a pine tree does have that classic needle construction. It’s going to provide plenty of apartment for all of your favorite ornaments. There’s also spruce. Now, artificial-spruce trees have a more traditional shape and mode and that’s perfect if you’ve got a lot of ornaments.
And then flocked trees. Now, the limbs of a flocked artificial tree are treated to look like they’ve only been dusted with snow. And it can be a variety of levels of snow. It could look like only a light-headed dusting, to a heavy snowfall. So, it certainly can give you that beautiful winter-wonderland effect indoors. But they are kind of dusty. I ever feel like when we have flocked trees at work, they’re kind of a mess.
TOM: Yeah. Now, let’s talk about illuminate. Here’s where some of the biggest advances in artificial Christmas trees have happened. There are a lot of actually durable, built-in lighting options that are definitely more reliable than light cords, which ever seem to fail when they toiled perfectly the year before. Have you ever noticed that?
Now, the majority of members of the lamps today are LEDs, so they are cool to touch, certainly majorly shorten attack hazard and they have a longer life than traditional bulbs. And “theyre using” a heck of a lot less energy. Plus, there’s a lot of color-changing options, in order to be allowed to designated your tree on white-hot or multicolor suns, button it back and forth, come up with your perfect joyou seek. And some of them can even be controlled with a remote or an app, because let’s face it: everything has an app these days, right?
LESLIE: It genuinely does.
And you know what I meditate the best part of going with a forge tree is, Tom?
TOM: Yeah. No needles, right?
LESLIE: Yeah, exactly.
TOM: Oh, I hate cleaning up those needles. I think it’s something you end up doing until the next Christmas, right?
LESLIE: Pretty much. You turn that rug over and abruptly, there’s exactly an abundance of needles. You’re like, “Where did these is just coming up? ”
Charles in Arkansas is on the line and needs some promotion putting in a door. What can we do for you?
CHARLES: Got an age-old opening I’m replacing on the figurehead of my house. It’s an exterior opening. I bought an oak door- solid opening- to supplant it. I did not measure for the hinges when I bought the door; I time weighed for the doorknob. And I don’t know how to cut those grooves for the hinges: those 4-inch hinges that go on the door.
TOM: So we know the door fits into the jambs, it fits into the opening? We precisely need to figure out to get it hinged? Is that remedy?
CHARLES: I only need to know how to cut the door for the hinges.
TOM: But the door does fit the commencement of the right now, so you have an existing opening it can fit into.
CHARLES: Well, yes. A matter of fact, if you ask for 84 -inch door, you’re going to get about 83 – or 821/2 -inch door, so it’s merely adequate on immensity. It’s only such matters of the rip of the hinges.
TOM: OK. So it’s really precisely a subject here of being very accurate in how you lay this out. So you have to remember that when you position the door in the opening, it is necessary to about a 1/4 -inch of opening above the door merely to allow for expansion and reduction and adjusting the door. So whatever it is you want to do is measure down from the top of the door and measure up from the bottom of the door until your first hinge plight. I would position those maybe 8 or 10 inches down from the top and evenly- equidistant- up from the bottom and then the third one privilege in between.
And be reminded that what you want to do is – you can take that entrance, rectified it on its area. You can lay the hinge right over it where it’s going to be attached and you can draw an outline of that hinge onto the door. And then with a really sharp-worded chisel, you’re essentially going to notch out the thickness of the hinge substance itself, which is really something in the order of a 1/16 -inch or so of substance that will come off of that, so that when the hinge is on the door it lays perfectly flat. The impression here is that the hinges don’t truly take over any space.
And now, once “youve had” those set on a entrance, you’re going to applied the exact same- in the exact same locations, you’re going to notch them out into the jamb in much the same way. You’ve just got to be really accurate with your measurings to make sure they line up properly. Another route to do this is to articulated them in the jamb firstly, mounted the door in place, kind of shim it up and get it exactly where you want, then commit the marks over. Either acces, the alignment is key.
And once you do that, when you’re ready to leant it all together, the prank of the trade is when you
start to drive the pins in and deem the hinge plates on, don’t drive them all the way home. Leave them a little liberate so “youve had” some mush in that hinge. It’ll make it a lot easier for you to get it all back together. And then you are eligible to tighten it up once the hinge pins are in place.
CHARLES: That’s what I wanted to find out.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that programme. Thanks so much better for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Alright. We’ve got a question now from Roy. Now, Roy writes: “I recently bought a ranch-style house built in the 60 s and I’d like to insulate the exterior walls. Is blown-in insulation a good option? ”
TOM: You know, Leslie, I conceive people hyper-focus on one part of the project when they genuinely should be looking at the whole thing. So in the case of insularity, the first thing that Roy should be looking at is the ceiling, right? The attic floor, so to speak. That attic insularity is most important because, as we all know, hot rises. So if I’ve got an older house, the first place I’m going to look to beef up my separation is the attic. And I’m going to be looking to add perhaps 15 to 20 inches in that space.
Now, the second place I might look to add separation, again, is not the walls, it’s the floor, right? No one adores to step out of the bedroom onto a coldnes floor, right? So you want to make sure the floor is nice and warm and so you want to beef up the storey insularity by making sure the floor joists are crowded solidly with, again, fiberglass insulation or another insulation of your alternative. And then, if those two things are done, we can talk about the walls.
Now, a house that was built in the 60 s probably has some insulation in it, so how much more can we get in? I don’t know. Maybe a little, maybe a lot. But the place to start might be by having an insulation contractor do some photos of the exterior live employing an infrared camera. An infrared camera are to be able detect freezing distinguishes in the walls and other places. And you’ll get a sense as to how much of a void “youve had” of insulation there.
Now, if it turns out you need a significant amount of insularity, then perhaps you could go ahead with a blown-in product, like constricted cellulose. But if not, you might just find that do the attic separation and storey separation is enough, because that’s where you’re going to get the most heat loss and likewise pick up the most comfort.
LESLIE: Yeah. And it’s amazing how you’re going to notice certain differences with those little reforms, so I would start gradually and see how much of an effect you’re having.
Alright. Next up, we’ve got a post now from Jessica. And Jessica writes: “Why are my plumbing tubes in the wall making a knocking tone after I turn on the hot water in the tub? ”
TOM: Ah, you know the answer to that one: liquid hammer, right? That ocean is flying down the pipes and then you turn off the faucet. And what is happening in all of that coerce of the water? Well, it doesn’t want to stop, so it moves forward. And if the pipe is loosely connected to the framing, it’s going to bang. And the one thing about copper is, boy, it disseminates audio certainly, really well.
LESLIE: Yeah, it sure does.
TOM: So what is necessary do here is basically – first of all, more snugly attach those pipings to the walls, if it’s possible. If this is in a crawlspace or a vault or a sit where you have access to the plumbing, you may need to add some added times to hold those pipes in neat and close-fisted. And if that doesn’t eliminate it or you can’t get to it, there is a plumbing device called a “water hammer arrestor.” Sort of like a torsion bars for sea. It get following the adjournment of the flow and it assimilates that patrol of the irrigate loping through the hose and therefore, it doesn’t tell the pipe shake as much and make all of that noise.
The good news is it rarely justification current problems, so it’s actually more of an exasperation than anything else.
LESLIE: Yeah. And I represent it really isn’t a horrid fix, so it’s not that large-scale of a consider. And it’s going to give you so much more peace of mind and quiet.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey, thank you for coming in for expend these sections of your day with us. We hope you’ve picked up a few tips-off and impressions on how you are eligible to determine your dwelling more pleasant, more efficient, more beautiful.
Remember, you can reach us, 24/7, anytime by post your questions at MoneyPit.com or intelligence on over to our Facebook page at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
( Copyright 2020 Squeaky Door Make, Inc. No section of this transcript or audio register may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Creation, Inc .)
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