If you’ve been feeling wintertime drawings whip through your openings, we step you through a simple checklist to help you figure out if benefits of replacement windows are worth the cost.
There’s nothing worse than hanging a ponderous word-painting exclusively to have it come crashing down! We’ll share a tried-and-true way to secure your wall hangings safely.
Do some of your snacks come out HALF cooked? Don’t accused the concoct, blame the oven. We’ll explain why all oven temperatures can go and how to fix the problem.
Plus, answers to your home progress questions about replacing a skylight, soundproofing a room, realigning interior doors, tiling a hearth surrounding.
Do you have a home improvement or decoration question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: And Happy New Year, everybody. What are you working on? What are you planning for 2021? Are you ready to take on some conversions around your room? You is prepared to refresh, to remodel, to redo a office or two? We are here, at your area, ready to help. We are your instruct, we are your helpers, we are your home improvement healers. Whatever you need us to do to help you get those projects achieved, we wish to do time that.
The first thing you’ve got to do is help yourself, though, by are to achieve us with those project questions. You can do that a couple of ways. You can call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT and leave that question with us and we’ll call you back the next time we’re in the studio. Or you can post your question on MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s show, if you’ve been feeling winter enlists whip through your openings, it might be time to think about replacing them. We’re going to walk you through a simple checklist to help you figure out if the potential benefits are worth the cost.
LESLIE: And hanging heavy scenes or mirrors so that they won’t come disintegrating down sure can be a challenge. But no matter what surface you’re drilling into, we’re going to share a tried-and-true way to secure your wall hangings safely.
TOM: Plus, do some of your snacks come out half-baked? Well, don’t condemned the cook. You can blame the oven. We’re going to explain why oven temperatures can differ and how to fix the problem.
LESLIE: Alright, guys. What are you working on? We want to hear. We want to know. We want to give a hand. We want to be inspired by you and we want to lend a hand to help you finish your campaigns perfectly the first time. So utter us a order. We’re ready to grab our implements and get to work on your room, so return us a call.
TOM: The quantity here is 1-888-MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974. Or post your questions at MoneyPit.com.
Leslie, who’s first?
LESLIE: We’ve went Catherine from Delaware on the line who’s got a question about skylights. How can we help you?
CATHERINE: I’m a preventative-type person and my skylights are 25 years old.
CATHERINE: I want to know how to tell if I need them tied or replaced.
TOM: So, is there anything wrong with them in terms of seeps or anything like that?
CATHERINE: I have not yet been leaks.
CATHERINE: I’m concerned about the seals that go around them.
TOM: When you “ve been looking for” through the skylight, does it get condensation inside of it? Is it cloudy or anything of that nature?
CATHERINE: They’re dirty because I can’t get up there and clean them.
TOM: Well, gaze, it sounds to me like it’s still acting is a good one. And unless it’s disappointed, there’s no real reason to replace it. Even those 25 years old- it’s probably a thermal-pane skylight. And if we told you to replace it, we would probably tell you to put back something very similar to what you have right now.
So I don’t think it’s required. Perhaps only if you, for example, ousting your ceiling or doing a big project like that, you might choose to replace at the same time. But I say left open alone. If it’s not spilling and it’s still affording batch of light-colored and solace for you, I don’t think there’s any reason for you to change it.
CATHERINE: I “ve had my” roof done and at that time, there were no divulges or anything. And I guess that’s been about 6 or 7 years ago.
TOM: Yeah, I wouldn’t change it. There’s not really much that goes wrong with them. And if it’s not seeping, I think you’re good to go.
CATHERINE: Oh, good.
TOM: Good luck, Catherine, and thanks so much better for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Andrew in Idaho is on the line needing some ways to soundproof a apartment. Tell us what room. What’s going on?
ANDREW: Hi, Tom. Hi, Leslie.
ANDREW: I’m having some problems. I’ve get four roommates. We’re all friends.
TOM: And you want to stay that way.
ANDREW: Yeah. And I just got a new job. I work at 3:00 a.m. in the morning.
TOM: Oh, man.
ANDREW: A mas of them stay up until 3:00 a.m. in the morning.
ANDREW: And I was just wondering if there was any fast and efficient ways I can soundproof, say, my bedroom to be able to sleep at night.
TOM: Yeah , now, where is your room in relation to the noise? Are you like at the end of the hallway or anything like that? Tell us about it.
ANDREW: We’ve got three steps; there’s three different levels.
ANDREW: And I’m in the tallest position. You march down a flight of stairs; they’re mostly in the living room. And then if you take another corner from going down those stairs, you’ll go into their rooms.
TOM: OK. So, sound gives, as you are familiar with, pretty quickly and pretty aggressively. If you want to quiet it in your room and you’re willing to do a little of task, you can make it a lot softer by improving the walls.
There are a couple of ways to do this. One practice is to use a make announced Green Glue, whatever it is you basically put the glue on the walls and then introduced a second layer of drywall on top of that. And that second layer, with the Green Glue in between, sort of isolates it.
That said, it’s expensive to- because you need 2 tubings of Green Glue for every 4×8 expanse of drywall and we’re talking about these big tubes , not the little caulk tubings. The ones that are humungous. And so you introduced a lot of Green Glue and a lot of drywall and of course, you’ve got to spackle, you’ve got to paint; you’ve got to do all that. That’s the first method to do it.
The second mode to do it is to use a commodity announced QuietRock, which is kind of like a laminated drywall that already has the glue sort of in it and whatever else they do to stop sound transmission. And again, with that you framed a second layer on your existing walls.
And the QuietRock is about, what, 35, 40 bucks a membrane, Leslie? Something like that?
LESLIE: Yeah, it- I intend it’s pricey but it does the trick.
LESLIE: Andrew, are you renting?
ANDREW: It’s kind of hard to explain. One of the couples just got married and they bought this house.
ANDREW: And they’re- I’m renting the office, technically.
TOM: How do you feel about improving their house, even though you’re a renter?
ANDREW: They’re fine with it because they’re wanting to do the same thing for their chambers, so …
TOM: OK. Yeah.
ANDREW: For the Green Glue, do we have to worry about texture?
TOM: No , no , no. It’s all between.
LESLIE: Well, that goes in between the two expanses of drywall.
LESLIE: It sort of acts as the sound barrier behind that new expanse of drywall that you’re lay on. If you go with the QuietRock, which is the second option, you don’t need that Green Glue but you are adding a second layer of drywall.
TOM: Right. Now, there’s one other important thing I have to mention, Andrew, and that’s this: technically, to soundproof a chamber, you really need to get to the electrical containers and other penetrations of the wall from behind it, from the inside. And of course, that’s absurd to do in a finished house.
So, even though you’re going to quiet it, you’re not going to see do as good a place as you could because if the wall was wide open, you’d extend from the back side and you would be wrapping the electrical cartons. There are special, almost like a clay-like kind of a material that you pulp around the box with the QuietRock, that seals in all of those divergences so that no racket get through there.
So you can’t do everything but you can do a pretty good job.
ANDREW: OK. Yeah, we were just wanting to do a little of converting just so people talking in the living room and trash, it won’t come into the bedrooms.
TOM: Mm-hmm. Well, regrettably, it’s not a simple fix; it’s mostly taking all of your material out of your chamber and re-drywalling the whole thing. You can settle ponderous wraps up, you can articulated carpets on the walls, hang wall coatings, things that like- that will soften it from a decor view. But realistically …
LESLIE: But it’s not going to do what you really want it to do.
ANDREW: Well, I is certainly look into that Green Glue. I do have some sheetrock experience.
TOM: Alright. Well, then, perhaps it’s a good activity for you. It’s either that or earplugs, my friend, OK?
ANDREW: Alrighty. Thank you, guys.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project.
LESLIE: Heading over to Massachusetts. We’ve went Thurmond on the line. What project are you working on?
THURMOND: Well, I have some concrete slabs out in the back. They’re next to the house. I was just thinking about beautifying them by adding some hue and some texture. Paint, even though it’s built for concrete, you know, won’t last. So I ran into something announced RollerRock from Daich Arrangement up in Canada. That would spread a finely – punishment speck stone, actual stone.
THURMOND: And you can choose colorings and so on. I was just- it seems like the way to go but I only- before I go forth, I just wanted to have your opinion in case you know about this or maybe have some other suggestions.
TOM: I’m actually very familiar with the products by Daich Coatings, run by Peter Daich up there in Canada. And RollerRock is certainly one of their leading concoctions. And I think it’s a really good solution for your place. It’s beautiful, it’s sturdy. It’s often used in exterior environments. It’s abused around funds, for example. And I think it’s a good choice, because it’s really going to stand up and it looks great. So, it gives people some colour and some texture, which I think is what you’re want to achieve now. It can fill in those child rifts that you’re checking and give you a durable surface for years to come.
THURMOND: There is some remaining colour- concrete dye- on there which hasn’t faded. Yeah, I guess I “shouldve been” that power-washed. Probably wouldn’t take it off. I probably have to get onto sand-blasted.
TOM: Well, what I would do is I would go to the Daich Coatings website. It’s D-a-i-c-h-Coatings.com. And I would pull up the application instructions for the RollerRock product and see how they admonish you direct veneers like old-time paint that’s on there, very. Most of these companies are going to provide very specific application and prep teaches that’s going to assure that that brand-new make is going to stick.
THURMOND: OK. I’ll go check it out.
TOM: So I wouldn’t guess. I would check- do the research firstly. This path, you know you’re doing it properly. OK?
THURMOND: Right. Well , thank you for asking. That’s helpful.
TOM: Hey, good luck with that project. Let us know how you make out.
THURMOND: I will.
TOM: Take care. Bye.
LESLIE: Well, if you’ve been feeling the winter sketches whip through your openings, you may be wondering whether it’s time to replace them. Well, every concoction in your home has got a lifespan and for your openings, a good time to start assessing their condition is after about 10 times. At the 15 -year mark, it’s time to seriously determine if your openings are still even doing their responsibility. So to help, we’ve put together a checklist that lets you decide.
First, do they work? I’m talking about do they physically move up and down, in and out without any blockage? Windows that don’t operate well or those that won’t stand open or fastened are going to detract from your home’s value and your energy efficiency.
TOM: Next, are your heating and cooling statements flourishing each year? You know, enlists through those windows may very likely be the cause.
Also, consider how many panes of glass are in your existing spaces. If you’ve got single-pane windows, they are the least energy-efficient and they can definitely cause your exertion legislations to go up.
Next, do you read moisture appearing inside the glass on double-pane windows? This might mean you have seal collapses. And if that’s the example, you need to replace the glass or the entire window.
And last-place, does it seem especially loud in your residence? If you live near an airport or hectic street, you might want to consider replacing your spaces with laminated glass or double-paned windows to reducing that racket transmission into your home.
LESLIE: Now, if you’re ready to replace your openings, there are a lot to choose from. But to help boil it all down to those that warrant your consideration, look for these two things.
First of all, you want to look for the ENERGY STAR-qualified replacement windows. Now, these are built to a higher standard. They’re going to help lower your vitality invoices and they may qualify for excise incentives.
Then, you also want to look for the National Fenestration Rating Council- NFRC- rating. Now, the NFRC is an independent body that rates the energy efficiency of windows across several factors. You want to use the info on these descriptions to equate spaces from different producers. And that’s going to help you really make a smart decision.
TOM: Definitely. And by the way, guys, if you want to keep the cost down that the proposed project, there’s no reason you need to do all sides of your residence at once. You don’t have to do all the windows at the same time. If high heating rates are a concern, time do the north and maybe the east sides firstly. And if it’s cooling expenses you want to reduce, you can do the west and the south surfaces first. It’s fine if you do one or two sides a year. It’ll save some money, be able to spread that budget out. And the result will be brand-new windows inside of a very short period of time.
LESLIE: Susan is on the line with a cold-water shower that I imagine she doesn’t like very much. Tell us what’s going on.
SUSAN: Rather shocking.
TOM: I bet.
LESLIE: I can imagine.
SUSAN: The hot-water faucet in the upstairs shower is the only hot-water faucet that does this- is when I adjust the hot water and it’s right- a good mix with the cold water. Step in the shower, then all of a sudden the hot water stops spurting and the water turns freezing. It’s almost like the faucet closed itself off or …
TOM: What kind of water heater do you have, Susan? Is it gas or electric?
TOM: And does this problem exist with any other fixture in the bathroom or the house for that matter?
SUSAN: No. It’s the only one “whos working” that course. The red-hot- the kitchen does not do that; the other bathroom capsizes and faucets don’t do that.
TOM: So this is a single-handle faucet?
SUSAN: No. It’s a- the authorities have two controls. They have separate handles.
TOM: Well, I think you’ve got a bad valve in there somewhere. Because if it’s time happening in one location like that, that’s the only thing it could be. We have abundance of hot water for the rest of the house. I suspect that there’s a problem with the valve. You might just want to replace the faucet set.
SUSAN: Oh, OK.
TOM: That would make sense as to its …
SUSAN: I just wondered, why would that do that?
TOM: I’ll precisely speculate now. As the water heats up the hose, the metal expands and causes the valve to pressure shut a little or something like that. There are a lot of reasons it could happen but I think it’s mechanical, because it’s simply happening in one location. So it ought to have the valve.
SUSAN: Oh. That’s it. Yeah.
TOM: It’s not- there’s nothing inscrutable about this. It’s got to be the valve.
SUSAN: Alright. Well, enormous. Thank you for the diagnosis.
TOM: What you might want to think about when you change this is talk to your plumber about something called a “pressure-balancing valve.” Now, I’m not sure if he’ll are finding this for this kind of configuration that you have.
But what a pressure-balancing valve does is it keeps the mix ratio between hot and cold steady, irrespective of what’s happening in the rest of the house. So that if you were to hop in the shower and somebody else reddens a toilet somewhere, you don’t get kind of that outrage of red-hot or collapse of cold water as one fixture sort of steals irrigate from the other. It keeps the ratio the same. So while you may have less or more spray, the temperature of the water never changes. If you’re going to spend the money on a plumber and valves, I is undoubtedly look into getting a pressure-balanced valve create if I could.
SUSAN: Well, I’m glad to know about that. Thank you so much.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that job, Susan, and thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Al in Texas has got a house that tends to move a lot. Now you can’t close your darn doors. Tell us what’s going on, Al.
AL: Well, you are familiar with, here in this part- slope of city- our clays are not very good and they tend to transformation all the time.
AL: So it’s a constant battle with the doors not locking properly. And so my question has to do with- there’s a male and a female back and so, should I deepen- adjust the door or do I “ve got to go to the” female feature to adjust that so that the door fastens properly?
TOM: The arrange you move such adjustments, Al, genuinely depends on what’s the easiest way to do this, so let me give you a couple of examples.
Let’s say that the door itself was hitting the door jamb a little bit low-pitched and you had to pick it up a bit? Well, if you went to the upper hinge and was able to tighten it, that will actually sort of twist the door uphills in its frame and move that striker up higher, perhaps enough to actually build the connection on the strike plate. And if you had to move it down, you were able to tighten the lower hinge. So you can do a little bit of action by shimming the hinges or moving the hinges or stiffening the hinges in the door.
Beyond that, the easiest thing to do is to actually reset the striker slab on the door jamb itself, to move that up or down to align properly with the door itself. And you could actually have a striker that’s a little bit wider than perhaps what you really need, in terms of the actual striker hole, so that if the door was to shift a little bit throughout the year because of swelling and stretch and contraction, it would still continue to operate properly. Does that make sense?
AL: It does. Now, let me ask you one last thing. On the- not on the door but on the other side, would I need to change that slouse of grove? And why I say that is because, commonly, that little metal bit is actually roughly encrusted onto the wood. There’s ever like a little square and if it’s like perfectly in there, would I need to replace all of that or could I precisely maybe …?
TOM: Not certainly change it but what you would do is you might open it up a little bit. So for example, you would take off the striker and then with the chisel, you would widen out the hole a little bit and then you would placed it back together.
AL: That concludes sense.
AL: Thanks very much. I appreciate it.
TOM: You’re welcome, Al. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Beverly in Nebraska is on the line and is looking to do a flooring, I approximate, tiling project. Tell us what’s going on.
BEVERLY: Well, I have a brick fireplace that I are intended to reface with ceramic tile.
LESLIE: Oh, enormous. It’s a hearth question.
BEVERLY: Yes. I want to find out if what- if I need to do any special steps to prep the brick. I’ve heard yes and I’ve heard no, so envisioned I might call someone that might have a real answer.
TOM: As long as the brick is not dirty or doesn’t have loose dye on it or anything of that quality, I don’t think there’s a lot of prep involved there. What’s going to be really important is that you get a good coat of adhesive underneath it. And you can use a tile mastic on top of that brick to attach the tile to.
LESLIE: What sizing are the tiles that you’re looking at, Bev, to put over this?
BEVERLY: Twelve by twelve, probably.
LESLIE: Tom, is there any concerns with the distinctions between the brick and the mortar direction for unevenness? Or because the tile is so large, it’s going to …
TOM: No, because you know what? Think about it. When you introduced tile down, “youre using” a notched trowel, right? So you never have a terminated, 100 -percent contact of the tile with the substrate. So the fact that there’s adjourned mortar on this brick hearth is not of areas of concern to me. It’s only more of a concern that we get a good, solid hair of adhesive there and that they bake well, they’re nice and stable.
And actually, you want to make sure that you plan this out carefully, Bev. I convey frankly, it’s really small rooms to get that to fit right, to look right, to make sure the corners are done properly. If it’s sloppy, you’re going to be kicking yourself, because it’ll be obvious to anybody that looks at this that it wasn’t done by a pro. So only make sure it’s done really well so that it looks like it was almost intended to be that way the first time the hearth and the hearth was contemplated, OK?
BEVERLY: OK. One thing that I’d heard about, the brick mortar cable sucks up the humidity out of the mastic quicker. Is that something I need to worry about or simply …?
TOM: Nah. Nope. Wouldn’t worry about it at all. That determines no feel to me. Look, parties put concrete- employ tile down on concrete and will tell you the same issue. Just plan it properly, Bev, so that you have all the areas line up right, you have the right fragments, the title- the types of tile that you’re choosing are the ones that, for example, have closed areas where they wrap around the outside.
And make sure it’s going to work. You may find that 12 -inch is too wide for that; it might be easier if you use a smaller tile because you’d have a little more flexibility.
BEVERLY: Like maybe a six or eight?
TOM: Like a six, yeah, or an eight. Yep, exactly.
Depending on the influence, right, Leslie?
LESLIE: Yeah. It genuinely depends on what inspection you’re going for. And with a ceramic tile, think about the finish on them. A glazed tile is going to clean better when you get dirt and debris from the smoking in the fireplace itself. But an unglazed one might have a more hearth-y, traditional gaze. So think about the overall seek you’re just trying to get.
And you can also- a 12 -by is kind of massive. So if you’re looking to employed a decorative tile, say, as cornerstones around your mantle or something, think about adding in little detail parts and then you can size your tiles accordingly.
TOM: So does that are contributing to out?
BEVERLY: Yeah. We’re try to make it gape a little more modern.
TOM: Yeah, I think that’s surely a good project. I think it will look most modern. I think it’ll be very attractive. Just take your time. Do it once, do it right and you won’t have to do it again.
BEVERLY: Thank you very much.
LESLIE: Well, it’s not remarkable to stumble a wall, so to speak, somewhere between formulating your photos or to purchase a beautiful wall hanging or mirror and actually hanging them on the wall.
Now, hanging scenes, they can be a little scary, specially if it’s got some heavines to it. But there are many types of walls out there, from uncovered brick to traditional drywall. And what type of wall you have can greatly impact what hardware and tools you need to use to try and beat gravity, taken to ensure that your new wall decoration doesn’t come crashing down.
TOM: But no matter what surface you’re drilling into, there is a tried-and-true way to secure those wall hangings safely.
So, each material is going to have a fastener that’s best suited for it, so let’s consider some of that. There are really two types of secures and each one has strongs and weaknesses. But it simmers down to these two types.
The first kind is called an “expansion anchor.” These work when a fucking or a bolt is threaded into them. And they work best in thick and solid substances. And then there’s a hollow wall linchpin. They’re used in thinner materials or hollow walls. They spread in various ways once placed and they can’t be drawn back away formerly they’re done.
LESLIE: Alright. So , now, when it comes to the material of the wall to what type of fastener, let’s “ve been thinking about” drywall.
Now, hammers are going to be OK but when you applied them in, they should go in at a 45 -degree angle. Screws are better and they should be used with a plastic fasten. For anything heavier than 20 pounds, that fastener must go into a stud.
Now, if you’ve went plaster walls- which we have in my home. In redecorating my son’s room, I’ve had a lot of challenges hanging things up. So, plaster cracks really easily when it separates from the lath. So you’ve got to keep the hum of you actually working to a minimum. I imply I’ve been hammering a fingernail and you can hear the plaster behind the wall crackle off the lath. It’s like …
TOM: I know. It’s genuinely disturbing, isn’t it?
LESLIE: Crumble, crumble, crumble. And you’re like, “Ugh. Is the whole wall going to come down? ” So it’s crazy.
Now, toggle rods. Metal ones, especially. Those truly are going to be your wall secures of choice. They’re going to expand once they’re pushed through that plaster and that’s going to add support from behind, because it sort of opens up and then controls onto the back side of that lath. So it’s actually, genuinely grabbing into everything.
Now, if you’ve got a super-heavy item, ever drill instantly into the stud. You got to find it with a ornament finder. It’s really going to help you and save a lot of damage to the wall, to the item, to anybody strolling by. So do the privilege fixing to the realization of the rights wall surface.
TOM: Just before our picture today, I actually had to install a bracket into drywall. And I tell you this because, sometimes, it’s a combination of things that you’re going to see hit.
In this case, it was drywall, so I squandered a cavern wall fix. And I intended to use three of them for the three loopholes in the bracket. But when I predrilled for that, I found out there was a stud behind one. So, applied a combining: two hollow wall fastens and then one screwing long enough to reach right through the drywall and into the stud. So, it’s always an adventure because you never know kind of what’s behind that.
I was annoyed, though, that a little plaster chipped off a fingernail and now I’ve got to patch it and decorate it. So, it ever lends additional steps to it.
LESLIE: Oh, I know. It’s always something.
TOM: Now, if you’re staring at brick or stone and thinking, “This just ain’t going to happen, ” well, we are to be able to. You want to choose a spot in a mortar brace: the gap between the brick or the stone. You needs to have a drill with a masonry chip and drive a wall fasten into the fastened loophole- into the hole first for the fuck. Or you could use something, which is an amazing invention, called a “Tapcon fastener, ” which is essentially a pin that’s designed to drive right into the wall.
And if you’ve get genuinely heavy objectives, molly shafts are your friend. It’s a specialized screw fastening that works with drywall or plaster. It’s very easy to install, just like inserting a plastic wall secure, but it’s a heck of a lot stronger. Because as you drive the fuck in, the molly bolt expands and props it truly stick to the wall. In happening, they can hold up to as much as 50 pounds.
So, hopefully, this little explanation of hooks and information materials are better suited for them will assist you bypass coming in on the wrong side of gravitation next time you hang something. It certainly can be done but you’ve just got to consider the material and the weight of such products, the force of the hanging whatever you’re hanging. And then simply build the best selections and you’ll be good to go.
LESLIE: Well, when it comes to your oven, have you ever wondered why sometimes you get such incoherent makes? If your baked dishes don’t come out right every time, don’t condemned the cook, condemned the oven. It’s possible that your oven’s built-in thermostat isn’t working the space it should be.
TOM: That’s right. So, here’s how to narrow down the issue.
First, it’s a good notion to check your thermostat. And the way to do that is with a separate oven thermometer. We used to do this all the time when I was a professional home inspector. I would foreman into the kitchen early in regular inspections, turn on the oven to about 350, adhere my thermometer inside, which was a pretty good-quality glass thermometer, and then walk away for a 1/2 -hour or so.
And it’s amazing. Sometimes I’d come back and find that oven temperature was off 25 or even 50 grades. So it’s real important to check that. The glass-bulb thermometer types are the best. You want to let the oven repetition on and off for at least two or three times and then sit long enough in the oven to really sort of stabilize. And if it doesn’t indicate the temperature set on the dial, then you know something time isn’t right.
LESLIE: Yeah. But what’s wrong? Now, there are various possibilities.
Over time, that rubber gasket that’s around the oven entrance, that can become torn or stretched out of shape or otherwise deformed so it’s not closing properly. And that’s going to cause heat to escape from the oven. So you’ve got to inspect your gaskets to make sure that they’re in good condition and still doing their job. And if not, replace them.
TOM: Now, the other way heat can escape from your oven is the oven door is not closing properly. Your oven entrance needs to close evenly the whole way around and way a really tighten shut. If it doesn’t, you want to check for broken or bent entrance hinges. That happens when the door kind of opens up and goes strained or the door outpourings. These can all be replaced.
And generally speaking, you can adjust this with a few simple fixes. And you might even become a much better cook in the process, once you get that oven temperature accurately manifesting what the hell are you defined it at.
LESLIE: Alright. Our next caller is a Facebook fan of The Money Pit and he’s calling in from Wisconsin. We’ve got Antoine on the line who’s got a pellet-stove question. How can we help you?
ANTOINE: My home is about 1,000 square hoof and I wanted to put in a pellet stove.
ANTOINE: And I was wondering, what would be the best location and the best way to ventilate it?
TOM: OK. Good question. Now, first of all, hurray for the selection of a pellet stave. A particularly lettuce power preference. Mass of options. Pellet staves are affordable, the fuel’s affordable. They drive very, is a good one. You eliminating them up and literally can walk away from them.
Since it’s not tied into a central-heating system, you crave it to be centrally located so you get the best extent of hot spread outside of it. Very, very important that you follow the National Fire Safety Protection Organization standards for installation of that, since they are do get unusually, very hot.
How you install it, it depends on where you’re position it. For sample, the average wood stove needs about 3 feet of room behind it to incendiaries. Nonetheless, if you build a heat shield, then you can move it closer. I’ve seen them as close as 12 inches if they’re set with heat shields, which basically organize sort of a wall that’s vented that the hot can sort of pass over and the breeze can pass over and it can remain cool.
Going up to the attic? Same situation. You often use a triple-wall pipe- triple-wall vent pipe- to make that hot gas out. And again, it has to be installed correctly. So, it’s not the kind of project that I would recommend you do if you’ve never set one before, because of the specialty knowledge you need to make sure it’s done safely, Antoine.
So if you want to shop it, buy it, get wise in the store, get it in the house, that’s enormous. But I would definitely consider having a contractor that’s built these before time the actual installation for you. I would also make sure that you have the regional fuel marshal scrutinize the installing for you to make sure that it’s done correctly.
ANTOINE: OK. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT and for tendency The Money Pit sheet on Facebook, which is at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.
And by the way, if you would head on over to Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit and like our page, you can also get priority access to the radio show as we cause it.
LESLIE: Post your question or like Rebecca did from New Jersey, she contacted out to us on MoneyPit.com. And she says, “I merely remodeled my kitchen and has already been brand-new stainless-steel gadgets. I would like to keep them looking new for as long as I can. Any tips-off on a natural clean? ”
Well, I mean that’s the best. Stainless-steel contraptions, they’re so beautiful and they certainly look great in a kitchen. But they can look kind of bleh over duration. So you’ve got to take care of them nicely.
So, you want to spritz the exterior of those devices with white-hot vinegar and then wipe it off. And then you can repeat with a little dab of olive oil. And that’s going to keep your appliances smudge-free for about “two weeks “.
And always, whenever you’re working on stainless, just sort of go in that same counseling of the grain. You’ll see it; it’s those courses. You don’t ever want to go across it because you might make it look yucky. So just take your time with it.
Alright. Next up, we’ve got a question from Robin who writes: “Do you have any tips for restraining your mattress fresh and clean? ”
That’s a hard one. You know, mattresses take a lot of abuse. And if you’ve went small-time kids or pets, they can really get downright yucky. So, when you get a new mattress, you want to get a zippered cover for that mattress that has a soft mattress pad on top. Remember, you’ve got to move that pad various kinds of often and vacuum around the mattress and box spring, because a lot of dust comes settled in there. And occasionally, you can sprinkle your mattress with baking soda, left open on for a few cases hours and then vacuum that up.
Those are just really great ways to keep everything fresh. And the zippered consider keeps the dust mites apart, so it’s certainly some important steps you’ve got to take there.
TOM: Alright. Larry in New Hampshire has reached out. He says, “I have moisture in my attic. I have rusted claws coming through my sheathing and it looks like mold is starting to form. What can I do? ”
Well, you’ve got a sharp eye there, Larry, because those are the kinds of things that I used to blot all the time in my years as a professional home inspector. Those rusted tack tips-off are a sure sign you’ve got too much humidity in that attic space.
What looks a lot like mold, maybe it’s mold, perhaps it’s mildew, perhaps it’s algae. It’s unquestionably a clue of too much moisture. So I wouldn’t worry too much on that but I think it’s time for you to take action.
Now, what you should do is this: you’ve got to improve your breathing. Now, normally, in a house that has plywood sheathing and rusty hammer tips, it’s probably one that was built in the 60 s or the 70 s or maybe the early 80 s and it won’t have enough ventilation. It’ll have a couple of gable ducts at the ends of the house.
What I’d like to see you do is to install a ongoing bank ventilate the whole way down the heyday of that ceiling, kind of opening up that bank so you get plenty of( inaudible) breath coming out that of attic space. And then on the two sides of the members of this house- the latitude places to that crest – you want to make sure that those soffit express are fully open , not blocked. So you have air that enters in the soffit, flushes out all of that warm, moist breeze that musters in the attic at the ridge.
In the winter, it’ll make the sweat out. The stain will go away. The rusty claw tips-off will go away. And in the summer, it will take the heat out of the attic and you will be amazed at the reduction in air-conditioning costs as a consequence of that. Actually, really important that you have a lot of ventilation in your attic.
By the nature, if your attic is ventilated perfectly, it will always be the same temperature as the outside. If it’s not, if it’s warmer than the outside, you’re going to get condensation, right? Because warm, moist aura condenses on those cold tips of the claws and you’ve went sweat problems. So, that is the solution: better ventilation.
And that’s another way to get answers to your residence betterment questions. You can affix them at MoneyPit.com or like Larry did, at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit. We are happy to jump in and tackle these little projects, these little DIY dilemmas for you anytime.
LESLIE: Yeah. And don’t be afraid to send some situations if you’ve got work in progress or you need to help us sort of understand where something is in your home. We love to see those, too.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show on breeze and online at MoneyPit.com. We so realize you spending this part of your date and this brand-new year with us. And we hope we’ve been able to give you some gratuities and ideas to help you take on your next residence betterment adventure.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
( Copyright 2021 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No section of this record or audio register may be reproduced in any format without the express written permission of Squeaky Door Product, Inc .)
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