Farmhouse decor is more popular than ever. Tom& Leslie help you get started with impressions for eco-friendly farmhouse fix ups.Is your family ripening? Before you listen the pitter pitter-patter of little feet- It’s smart to make sure home sweet home is safe as can be for babies. We’ve got everything you need to know about baby proofing your coin excavation, coming up.While countless young adults return home to save money, a basement may be a good choice for a bedroom and a bit of privacy. But constructing codes demand some special requirements for sleeping infinites below position. We explain why and help you determine if basement bedroom restorationsmake sense for your home.Want to get rid of popcorn ceilings? If you’re tired of flakes coming on your face, meat, and clothes, or really grossed out by the dust and dirt it musters, we explain the easiest ways to offset popcorn ceilings disappear.
Plus, provide answers to your residence betterment questions, replacing older windows, heating your home with a wood stove, floor patchingbefore installing engineered flooring, hiring a home inspector .
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Hey, do you have a house that you love, yet still needs some care and feeding? Well, then you have a money pit, just like us. And we are here to help you spend as little coin as possible on taking care of that home. So whether it’s a fix-up, a renovation, a decor job, we would love to help you get that job done. Help yourself first: pick up the phone and make us a request, right now, with those questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or you can post your questions at MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s show, decorating is a very fun and important step to offset your house feel like home but there are dozens of decoration wordings to choose from. And farmhouse decoration is one that is shooting to the top. It’s more popular than ever, so we’re going to help you get started with some hypothesis for eco-friendly farmhouse fix-ups.
LESLIE: And also onward, is your family flourishing? Well, before you sounds the pitter-patter of little paw, it’s smart to make sure that your home-sweet-home is safe as is likely to be. We’ve got everything that you need to know about babyproofing your fund pit, coming up.
TOM: And while numerous young adults are returning home to save money, a vault may be a good choice for a bedroom and a bit of privacy. But building codes demand some very special treatment of opening like that if you’re going to sleep in it. So we’re going to sort out these to see if it moves smell for you.
LESLIE: But first, we want to hear what you are working on. Whether you’re dealing with a amend or you’re dreaming about a restoration, we are here to help.
TOM: That’s right. So you can consider us your manager, your helper or your home improvement therapist. If you’ve got a question about remodeling or decoration or fix-up, you’re in the right place. Give us a request, right now, and we will help. That multitude is 1-888-MONEY-PIT. Or announce your questions at MoneyPit.com.
Leslie, let’s get to it. Who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Dreama in West Virginia is on the line and could be dealing with a structural controversy. Tell us what’s going on at your coin pit.
DREAMA: Yes. I bought a residence about 13 years ago and the members of this house is approximately 30 year olds. And all of a sudden, last year, in the load-bearing center wall, I started coming a hit. And now, within a year, that fracture has gapped approximately a 1/2 -inch wide and it’s too- I noticed another office has a crack now. So I had a local handyman look at it and he suggested that I put in three piers- lines- to support the center wall.
And I guess my question is- I haven’t had an official, big construction company look at it hitherto. I’m getting ready to do that but I wanted to educate myself a little more. What would you all suggest?
TOM: How long have you been in this house?
DREAMA: Thirteen years.
LESLIE: And this is new.
DREAMA: Just started about a year ago.
TOM: See, here’s the thing. If you call a contractor, you’re going to get a contractor’s solution, which is to hire them to got something. What I would suggest you do firstly is to get an independent professional mind , not certainly an mind from a contractor. So your options on that are two: one is low cost; one, I would say, is moderate cost.
The low-cost option would be to find a neighbourhood professional home inspector. You can go to the website for the American Society of Home Inspectors. That’s at ASHI.org- -AS-H-I.org.
TOM: And you can put in your zip code. They’ll shoot back a inventory of certified professional home inspectors in your province. You can call from that listing, find mortal that’s knowledge and have them look at it. Because they’re time there to be informed about what’s going on and what started it and what it’s going to take to fix it.
The second room to go, which is the moderate penalty, is to actually hire a structural architect. Now, why may you just wanted to do that, Dreama? Well, you are able to do that- if this is a fairly obvious problem, you want to certainly perpetuate the value of your house.
TOM: And if you have a structural technologist look at it and write a report as to what’s going on and what it’s going to take to fix it and then you actually sacrifice that report to a contractor and say, “This is what I want you to do, ” and then you have the engineer sort of recertify that it was done correctly. It’s kind of like having a pedigree that the reparation is done correctly and then kind of sell with your residence, so to speak.
Problem with contractors is that they’re not structural operators; they’re really handy chaps and they think that they have the expertise to fix stuff like this and they just don’t. They don’t have the schooling, they don’t have the education, they don’t have the training. And so, that’s not definitely the most efficient way to go about dealing with a situation like this.
I am a little concerned that it happened over this past year, because it sounds like it’s active and we want to get to the bottom of why it’s active and why it’s showing up all of a sudden.
DREAMA: Well, someone had mentioned that it’s a potential- we’ve had a lot of dry- several dry times and- because that could cause a settling in the foundation. Is that possible? I’ve never heard of that before.
TOM: No. I want there are some expansive clays that behave differently when they dry out a lot but listen, there’s going to be a lot of opinions. Every neighbor you ask is going to have a different one. What we’re trying to do is move you towards an expert opinion so you really know what you’re dealing with.
So, as I said, contact a professional home inspector or a structural architect. Get the assessment. It’s well worth noting. Your home is a big investment. We want to make sure it’s protected, OK?
DREAMA: I hadn’t was just thinking about a home inspector. Thank you very much.
TOM: You’re welcome, Dreama. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Kevin in Texas is dealing with a risky statu. You’ve get liquid spilling through a light-headed in your kitchen?
KEVIN: I actually live in an apartment but nevertheless, my concerns are obviously valid for my health and so forth. All of a sudden, irrigate started “re coming” the light-footed fixture in the kitchen. And I shed down containers and led up and beat on the gentleman upstairs’ door and it turned out his washing machine had gone crazy and had positioned a knot of irrigate in my ceiling that- the majority of members of which came right through the dawn fixture, extent of least resistance.
LESLIE: Oh, wow.
KEVIN: However, I can tell that it got into the rest of the ceiling. There’s a neighbourhood where this living room is submitted in with the blot, so I know that it get soaking up inside there. And furthermore, the guy, when he was made aware of it, apparently thought that it wouldn’t act up anymore and actually turned on his shower machine again and disappeared and stepped into the shower. And so it exactly divulged profusely until we could lastly get his attention, between me and Maintenance.
TOM: Oh, my God.
KEVIN: Yeah. I mean we’re sitting there with shop vac, pails and mops and just shaking our heads.
KEVIN: So it was a one-time event, so it wasn’t an ongoing leak. And I was wondering what my likelihoods are of black mold. Is there a test? Is there a preventative? What’s the fib with that?
TOM: Yeah, it’s a good question. But here’s the good news: a single spill like that that happened and then bone-dry out is not going to become an ongoing mold problem. If it remains humid for a long, long time and specially if it’s in an unheated place, it’s more likely to become a mold problem. But a single hole like that is not.
And likewise, one more point and that is you mentioned that your ceiling submitted. If- and I hope it doesn’t- but if that ever happens to you again, what you want to do is somewhat counterintuitive but that is to poke a hole in the ceiling where you are see that water starting to form.
TOM: Because it’s easier to fix a depression than it is to replace the entire ceiling, which is probably what’ll end up having to be done. But when you ensure liquid “re coming” like that, what you should do is grab a screwdriver and only poke a got a couple of holes until you find the smudge where the spray exactly starts dripping out.
TOM: The quicker you can empty that ceiling of water, the better off you’re going to be.
And we had a problem like that not too long ago because of a piece of twinkling that blew off our ceiling. And the first thing I did was took a Phillips screwdriver and poked three or four punctures until I determined the right recognize. All that liquid drained right out and all I had to do was fix those defects. And it didn’t even have a stain on the ceiling when we were done.
KEVIN: Wow, yeah. That’s good admonition there. I guess I should have thought of that but when you’re renting, you’re a little bit reluctant to do that.
TOM: Yeah, you don’t know. And that’s why I always take the opportunity to mention it, because it’s – first of all, you don’t have the experience because, thankfully, parties don’t get these kinds of seeps. But furthermore, it’s very counterintuitive because you don’t want to damage your ceiling. Well, it’s once injury once that water is behind it and it’s going to get a lot worse really fast unless you protrude a excavation in it.
KEVIN: Good point, though. Good point. Alright. Thank you, guys.
TOM: You’re welcome. Thanks so much better for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT, 888 -6 66 -3 974.
LESLIE: Renee in Texas, you’ve got The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
RENEE: Yes, mine is various kinds of like a doubled question. I have about a 30 -year-old, connected-on-both-sides townhome, two levels.
TOM: OK. OK.
RENEE: And I sounds a fissure a couple months ago. Well, you are well aware, “its one” of the endorsement radiations and it really- like a big, strong limb time cracked.
TOM: Did you actually consider the cracked beam somewhere?
RENEE: No, I didn’t see that but I have begun to have fractures along on that same surface of the house, in the regions of the wall?
RENEE: Down the regions where it’s smashing apart. But at the same time, I’ve noticed that the house has become unlevel. And that’s a little part because it’s old-time and it’s connected on both sides but I’m in Texas and we have large-hearted droughts and it various kinds of changes a little bit.
RENEE: My concern is when I get the support beam deposited and the foundation secured, I’ve seen on the DIY shows that unexpectedly they go back and they gape and the house or the chimney has only just junked. What can I do to prevent that?
TOM: Why do you say it’s been trashed? Because it shifted?
RENEE: Right. When they did the- when they put in- when I’ve watched the DIY depicts, they is now going they define the foundation and the foundation’s fine. And of course, they shift everything up and now there is …
TOM: Yeah. That’s why you have to be very , carefully balanced when you do anything that changes the inclination that the house has sort of settled into. Because if you don’t, formerly you generating a footing up, everything else moves. Yeah, in a lumber room, “if youre trying to” straighten a slopy storey, for example, all the cables and the plumbing can get strained and changed and so on. So it’s not just groundworks that are of concern.
I’m concerned, though, about this sound that you say that you’ve heard. But you’ve seen crackings in your walls but you’ve not physically investigated the structural cracking, remedy?
TOM: Alright. Now, you said it’s a townhouse. Is there an association that …?
TOM: OK. So in an association form of owned, generally you don’t own such structures. So such structures- if the structure was to fail, that’s generally the responsibility of the association to address. Is that your understanding?
RENEE: I can double-check on that.
TOM: But in a conventional condominium shape of possession, whatever it is you own is inside wall to inside wall. In some instances, you own the …
LESLIE: And then what’s beyond that wall is not yours.
TOM: Right. In some subjects, you own the drywall; in a number of cases, you don’t. So, for example, if there was a fire, God forbid, and the whole place burned down, you would be paying for the drywall, the kitchen cabinet, the devices, material like that. And the association would be rebuilding everything else, including the related infrastructure.
So you need to figure out, if there’s a structural difficulty, who’s responsible for it. I suppose you’re going to find it’s the association that’s responsible for it, which is good news for you. And then I would bring that to their attention and ask them to address it.
Now, as far as the fractures in the recess of the wall are concerned, I have to tell you that that’s pretty conventional and that by itself doesn’t consequently mean that you have a structural question. The road to fix that, though, is important and that is that you want to beach down the drywall in that area. And then you want to add some additional videotape and the type of drywall tape you use would be the perforated character. It looks like a netting; it’s like a sticky net. You made that on and then you spackle through that three coats: one, two, three hairs; each one thin but three hairs. And that type …
LESLIE: And countenancing each one to baked and be sanded in between.
TOM: Yeah. And that type of repair frequently will last.
Now, after you do the spackle amend, you’ll have to prime the wall. You can’t only decorate on top of it; you’ll have to prime it and then coat it.
TOM: So I would address the structure with the association, I would prepare the rifts on your own and then check what happens.
RENEE: OK. So only another question. Let’s say that if it’s not in business associations, that I do have to go into it , not only am I subjects of concern my roof but how much of a number of problems will I have with my neighbours on each side of me?
TOM: Depends on where the crack is, if it exists at all. If that’s the occasion, then I would suggest you hire a professional home inspector and have the inspector do what’s called a “partial inspection, ” which is usually a single-item inspection, and investigate this hit and learn what’s going on in the structure. And then we’ll know how far it’s gone and what needs to be done about it.
RENEE: Yeah, that’s cool. Thank you, people. I realize your time.
LESLIE: Well, if you like the ogle of a farmhouse decoration, grove is certainly a key component of the farmhouse aesthetic. Now, you might think that all wood is eco-friendly since it’s a naturally-occurring resource. Actually, merely specific types of wood meet eco-friendly requirements.
So, first, let’s talk about reclaimed lumber, because it’s one of the most eco-friendliest materials out there. Technically, recaptured wood can be any type of wood but what stimulates it eco-friendly is the fact that it’s salvaged from a previous project.
Now, if the grove has been used before and you use it again for a different projection, then you can classify that wood as recaptured. Now, pinewood from a demolished building and driftwood from the ocean, those are both examples of restored lumber.
TOM: Now, there’s likewise a label that you can check for. Wood that’s stamped by the Forest Stewardship Council, or FSC, is more commonly used in home construction than in garnish but it can still be used in decor.
For example, FSC wood is great for structure furniture or other fixtures that need to be really sturdy. That moniker of FSC wood means that the manufacturer has followed sustainability rehearses, like not applying pesticides and preserving the natural habitats.
LESLIE: And ultimately, if you’re looking to add a deck, porch or outdoor furniture to your farmhouse, teakwood is the eco-friendly choice.
Now, teak has long been used for outdoor projects due to its soundnes. And naturally, teak has a high oil content and that becomes it rot-resistant and super durable.
TOM: And it’s utterly a beautiful, beautiful skin-deep, especially for a floor tacked onto the back of your farmhouse-styled home.
LESLIE: Mark in Florida, you’ve get The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
MARK: Well, I am going to be putting down an engineered-hardwood floor.
MARK: And I’ve got the manufacturer’s instructions and I’m going to tell you, the forbearances for the floor are really tight. They miss the floor- so the plywood subfloor, off-grade house- they crave the flooring to be no more than 3/16 -inch over 10 feet or an 1/8 -inch over 6 feet deflection.
TOM: I haven’t recognized a residence hitherto that has that little divergence, right?
MARK: I know. Accurately. Yes.
Anyway, my question is- I’ve taken a 10 -foot 2×8 and justified it was straight and placed it on the floor.
MARK: And I’ve got a Sharpie and I’m kind of marking off what is within tolerance. And there are some segments that are and ones not in indulgence. So my question to you is: how do you match that specification that they call out for? For example, some of the load-bearing walls, you can see where the subfloor was really dipped down from the load of the dwelling. The room is about 23 years old. And I’m just wondering, how do you converge that? It’s highly tight.
TOM: How close are you, Mark?
MARK: It depends. Some of the areas, we’re talking probably half- maybe a 1/2 -inch in some of the bad places.
TOM: OK. So what you want to do in those areas is you’re going to fill in with a floor-leveling compound. You don’t have to do the entire floor but if you have the areas that are really down, you can pack those in.
The thing here is you want it to be reasonably flat. And the reason it wants to be reasonably flat is because with engineered-hardwood floor, the panels lock together. You know, I’ve got an 1886 house and I throw in a laminate floor when it kind of firstly came on the market. And this is similar to the engineered-hardwood floor except that when laminate storey firstly came on, you had to glue it together; it didn’t fastening together.
And so I was able to glue this together. It actually directed in my regard because by gluing it together, it had a lot more ability to stretch and stoop and twist over my exceedingly roly-poly floors. But if you’re just going to rely on the joint of the hardwood flooring to fasten together, then you can’t certainly emphasizes it that much. If you try to twist it, it could crack or pop up.
MARK: I see.
TOM: And so, what I would do is I would get floor-leveling compound. DAP meets one that works very well. It’s announced Flexible Floor Patch and Leveler.
TOM: And so, if you go to the DAP website at DAP.com- D–AP.com- just sought for the Flexible Floor Patch. You’ll understand a picture of it there; you’ll know exactly what you’re looking for. And then you can order that from, I’m sure, your home centre or your hardware storage or find it online. And that’s designed specifically to work on wood storeys or under grove storeys and elevation them out.
LESLIE: On subfloors, especially.
MARK: OK. Well, enormous. Thank you very much. I truly experience your show.
LESLIE: Jane Ellen in Pennsylvania is looking at getting some brand-new openings. How can we help you do that decision?
JANE ELLEN: Yes. Well, we are looking at getting- changing our single-pane windows. And our question is: do you think it would be more cost-effective to deplete the extra money on triple-pane windows or would double-pane windows be OK? Other than the windows, the house is fairly well-insulated; it’s not real drafty. We haven’t priced our options yet, so we just were looking for an opinion.
TOM: I think that double-pane windows will be fine. The thing is that when you shop for windows, you have all of these different features and benefits that you have to compare and contrast and sometimes, it gets very confusing when you do that. What I would look for is a window that’s ENERGY STAR-rated and one that has double-pane glass. As long as the glass is insulated and has a low-E coating so it indicates the heat back, that’ll be fine.
It’s been my experience that unless you live in the most severe climates, triple-pane glass doesn’t truly make up the additional costs in terms of return on investment.
JANE ELLEN: Wonderful. Thank you so much.
TOM: What various kinds of windows do you have now? Are they highly drafty?
JANE ELLEN: Well, they’re single-pane windows. They’re relatively decent spaces for single-pane but they’re old. They’re starting to – “youre seeing” the gas is starting to escape from them and they are a little drafty.
Our house has a field behind it; our backyard kind of opens up into a battleground. So, there’s a significant amount of breath that comes across the field and blows into the back of the house. And off the central back expanse, we have a three-season room, which helps to block some of high winds from the interior downstairs. But the upstairs bedrooms, you feel the wind a little bit more significantly. We notice the single-pane windows a little more there; it seems more drafty right there.
TOM: Well, I suppose these windows are going to make a big difference for you. Now, if you need to save some coin and maybe not do them all at once, that’s fine, too. What I would do is the north and east segments of the members of this house first- sides of the members of this house first- and then the south and the west second. OK?
JANE ELLEN: OK. Bang great.
LESLIE: I know given the winter that we’ve all had in the Northeast and pretty much all over the United Government, you might think that a triple-pane glass is going to do the trick, especially when we’ve had, what, like an average rate of 5 measures, Tom?
LESLIE: I’ve got to tell you, the working day that we’ve had 30 – and 40 -degree temperatures, I’ve put on a dawn coat. I’ve seen lineages out with no skins. Parties are out of their brains when we get 40 -degree days.
TOM: Yep. I know. We’re happy for it, right?
LESLIE: It’s like summer.
TOM: Alright. Well, Jane Ellen, I hope that helps you out. Thanks, again, for cry us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
Well, when it comes to protecting our boys, there is nothing short of a rubber room that can be completely child-safe. But with some common sense, you will be able to remove the most worrisome hazards.
LESLIE: So, first of all, let’s talk about your openings. Now, they might look completely harmless but if your space blinds still have lines, know that they’re one of the most dangerous entries in your house for children and young children. So you just wanted to shorten all long cords and restrain them up and away from the reach of those little handwritings. You can actually Google “Window Covering Safety Council” and they’ve got some info on a free tassel-shortening pack than can really save lives.
TOM: Now, another concern is furniture-tipping, because adolescents are climbers. So anybody that believes shelving is going to be an handsome produce, make sure it’s assured. We’re too talking about bookcases, big Tv stands and other climbable furniture. These all have to be anchored to the wall.
And here’s something that you wouldn’t usually think of as a tipping hazard but it utterly is: your oven, your scope. Because what happens is kids gather that doorway open and then they climb on the door. And if that stray is not secured, it will tilt over.
Now, newer ranges, when you buy them, they have a special device that screws into the floor and then the array slips under it to kind of lock it in place.
LESLIE: Oh, it’s like a cleat.
TOM: It’s like a cleat, accurately. It’s like a piece of hardware. And so, if you don’t have that on, your series can actually be very, particularly tippy, so be careful with that.
LESLIE: Yeah, that’s truly a good point.
Now, another thing is squeaky-clean sliding entrances. That can be huge trouble, as well. Kids sometimes will forget that the door is there and then walk, or worse, rolled right into it. And if that glass interrupts, serious injury can result. So, there’s actually some decorative items that you can add to the door- right at the kids’ height, right at their nose level- so it various kinds of always makes them know that the door is there and it’s closed.
TOM: And lastly, you want to make sure you check your stairs and your railings. The railings- in all the years I waste as a building inspector, I used to find these done wrong all the time. They have to be at least 36 inches towering and they can have no more than a 6-inch room between any of the spindles. At the same time, make sure those handrails are in place for all stairs and make sure they have a closed intention. The handrails that don’t wrap around to the wall can catch loose sleeves and compel a fall by themselves.
We’ve got the ended guide to babyproofing your residence, right now, online at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Greg in Washington is on the line and wants to heat his home with a wood stove. Tell us about your fund pit.
GREG: Well, sure. I heat my home with a wood stove and it’s about 10 year olds, the stave is. And it’s a pretty good-quality stove. And it’s the main source of heat for my house but I’ve been really disappointed in it. The house is drafty and when the shell dies down, the members of this house cools down in a hurry.
And I had the isolation checked out, so it’s well-insulated. And I recall the problem is the wood stove. Right now, the air intake for the combustion cavity is at the bottom of the stove. And so it’s taking in room air and I think that’s making a sketch. And I’ve talked to a lot of our neighbors- where we live, there’s lots of wood, so a good deal of parties heat with timber- and they all suggested that it would make a big difference if I were to hook up the stave to an outside source. I’ll be taking, you know, cold breath from the outside in.
So I went down to our merchant where I bought the stave and basically, he told me he could sell me what I’m looking for but I’m going to be baffled. And his reason is that, right now, we’re taking air into the combustion chamber that’s about 60 measures or so. And if I supplement the outside intake, I’ll be taking air in that’s, say, 20 or 30 measures in temperature. And I’ll be spending a lot of energy just heating the breath from the outside. And he recommended not to do it.
So my question is: is it your opinion this would be worthwhile to do or not?
TOM: Most modern fireplace and wood-stove methods include a combustion-air intake. In fact, in a number of cases, it’s required. So, I wouldn’t consequently take the dealer’s advice on this. I is a well-known fact that if you improve energy efficiency, it’s always going to include a combustion-air intake. Because otherwise, you’ve paid to heat all of that air kind of formerly and now you’re going to pay to heat it again because you’re taking it up the chimney. Does that make sense?
GREG: Yeah, sure does. Yes.
TOM: So, if there’s a practice that we are able to positioned a combustion-air intake there, I is undoubtedly do that. Because you’re right: that wood stove will depressurize the house and frankly, it’s probably pulling more air in from the outside anyway. You’re probably gathering that freezing breath in regardles; you’re simply pulling it through all the gaps around your doorways and windows and other cavities like that.
GREG: Right. It’s truly drafty by the doors and windows. You’re right.
TOM: Yeah. Because it’s depressurizing. So, why not just leave it the combustion aura and picture what happens?
GREG: OK. Because it- I’ve calculated it would expense about $600 to do this. And probably symbolizes it’d cost $800 by the time I’m done, so I didn’t know if it’d certainly be much difference.
TOM: I think it will probably see you a lot more comfortable.
GREG: OK. I picture I’ll try that then.
LESLIE: While countless young adults are returning home to save money, a vault provisions other benefits as they transition. For one, cellars actually give them the sense of privacy for these young adults that they don’t find living in the upstairs main part of the house. Now, some basements can even offer all of the advantages of suite living but truly at a fraction of the cost.
While the lifestyle might not organize total living independence, a successful basement-remodeling project does help establish an important first step toward that goal.
TOM: Now, improving out a cellar living space is not quite as simple as groups together a bed make, sounding a mattress on it and plugging in the second refrigerator. If you want to stay safe, it’s really important that the cellar remodeling gratify current structure codes. And the most critical of that is a way to provide egress: a highway to get out in the event of an emergency.
LESLIE: Now, a suitable egress is not only for the benefit of the occupants, compliance with the standard is also essential for firefighters and other emergency-rescue personnel who may need to carry backpacks with gear or oxygen barrels into a basement in the event of a fire.
TOM: Yeah. And while conventional basement windows supply plenty of light-colored and negligible sums of ventilation and entrances can provide weather-resistance and security, specially-designed egress window wells or vault openings are available that meet the modern building-code standards for that emergency exit.
It’s really important that these exist. You can’t exactly situated a bed down there and call it a date if you are don’t have this egress, it could be very, very dangerous. You’re simply leaving yourself one way out. And if there’s fire and inhale, that’s not about to become a very safe situation.
So, having the young adults return home to live with Mom and Dad, back to the nest one more time- that’s why we call it the “boomerang generation”- is fun but it may not be the most preferable arrangement if the vault is not a safe space.
LESLIE: Laura in South Carolina, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
LAURA: We have a deck on the back of our mansion that we, about two years ago, threw a product on it that acquires it like an anti-slip texture? And the finishing is starting to chip off in big chunks, so we were thinking about using that DECKOVER or OVERDECK, I think it’s announced?
And when we were at Home Depot, we noticed that they have something else that was an option. They’re actually foot-squared tiles. They’re like a thick-witted rubber that you actually use a glue to adhere onto the deck and then you cover your floor that method. My concern is if you apply that onto the deck, will that rot the timber?
TOM: Well, Laura, I’m not familiar with rubber tiles but there are polypropylene tiles or plastic tiles or composite tiles that are on the market that are designed to cover old-time decks. And the way these work is they sit on top of the floor timbers and they usually lock together. And some of them are quite attractive. There’s a produce announced Coverdeck that comes in dozens of various types of complexions and conditions and designs that could be used to examine really neat. And it’s not going to be slippery and it’s going to look great.
I am concerned if you’re gluing something down to the wood deck, I agree that something like rubber glued to grove is bound to let some spray underneath and it’s certainly not going to evaporate. These composite tiles or the plastic tiles frequently have a bit of space under them which allowed by wood to breathe and run dry. And then really, that’s the issue: if you hold water against it, you are able to do decay.
So I would take a look at some of the tile concoctions that allow you to cover these floors and probably avoid anything that’s rubbery that you’re going to see glue down.
LAURA: OK. So the cement is OK as long as there’s a gap or some sort of gap between the lumber?
TOM: It’s OK to cover it as long as there’s air space so it dries out.
LAURA: OK, perfect. Alright. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that programme. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: We’ve got a question here from Kevin who’s writing: “We have a deck off of our master bedroom. It sits on top of our garage, which is becoming a problem because the deck is constantly leaking into the garage. We’ve tried contributing pumps and shielded the deck in outdoor tile but that hasn’t helped. Should we just enclose the deck and solve the problem altogether? ”
TOM: Seems fairly drastic, doesn’t it?
TOM: I mean adding drains, OK, but that doesn’t stop a hole. And certainly, tile is not waterproof, so that’s not going to stop a leak.
Look, I had a lot of ordeal with outside floors along the Eastern Shore. And I found that the only thing that really stands up to the driving rainfall is a fiberglass deck, when all those old-fashioned faces are gathered apart and fiberglass is basically used as the raincoat flooring textile. It can have a grit finish to it, so it’s slip-resistant even if it gets icy and snowy. But it perfectly, positively doesn’t leak. The key is to make sure it goes up and over the door sills. It’s going to go under the siding, like regular blink, but up and over the door sills.
And it’s kind of like- if you think about it, it’s like a shower pan. Once it’s in, it doesn’t leak and never- is never going to leak. And you don’t have to worry about any maintenance problems after that.
LESLIE: Yeah. And then you can still actually enjoy the outside and not just be obscuring from it.
TOM: Well, do you cherish popcorn? How about popcorn ceilings? One is yummy; the other not so much. Leslie has got three ways to originate that old-time decor go away for good, in today’s edition of Leslie’s Last Word.
LESLIE: Yeah. If you are tired of the flakes precipitating onto your face, in your nutrient, on your apparel or perhaps you’re precisely grossed out by the dust and grease that it can collect, it’s probably is necessary to get rid of your home’s popcorn ceilings.
Now, there are three ways to do that but the first step is you have to test it for asbestos. Now, it was used in ceilings until the 1970 s but it has also turned up in homes constructed even in the 1980 s. Now, if the test says you’re good to go with your popcorn-removal project, there are three options: the sodden scraping, the dry scrape or shielding it.
Now, soaked rub or cool scrape, they’re pretty much the same thing except that with the sodden approach, you scatter the surface down with the liquid first from a garden-pump sprayer. This is going to keep the dust to a minimum and it can make it easier to scrape off gigantic clods of it right off of your ceiling.
Now, irrespective of which scrape method you are choosing, unfortunately, you’re not going to be left with a smooth, paint-ready ceiling only by doing all that scraping, since you’re very likely going to be left with an uneven surface with some tiny dings and some dents. These are all things you’re going to have to fix. At minimum, you’re going to want to take a pole sander and thumped those rougher spots.
Then you need to make sure that you prime and make-up the surface exercising a flat paint. And any depict that you put one across there with even the slightest brightnes- all kinds of sheen is just going to highlight any flaws that might be left by your removal of that popcorn ceiling. So, flat is your friend when it is necessary to an erratic surface.
Now, if you don’t want to deal with the mess of the removal, the second most popular approach to removing popcorn ceilings is simply to time cover it. This also won’t break the bank, since drywall or gypsum board- so what it is you want to call it- a pail of clamps and some drywall silt are only going to cost a couple hundred of dollars.
Depending on the size of the office, option is going to take a little bit more time but it obviously is very much a do-it-yourself project. You only need a buddy, because those membranes of drywall are kind of ponderous. So to be lifting them over your president on your own and trying to adhere them, unquestionably grab a friend. This is project you’re only going to do with a friend.
TOM: When it’s all done, you can celebrate with a container of fresh, popped popcorn, too.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Coming up next time on the programme, filters for your heating-and-cooling system can help remove allergens, because that season is pretty close to virtually being now. But there are many, many, many filters to choose from. Which genuinely do the job? We’re going to tell you about a rating system that will let you know the info you need on which filter can keep your aura the cleanest, on the very next edition of The Money Pit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
( Copyright 2021 Squeaky Door Production, Inc. No parcel of this record or audio datum may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Make, Inc .)
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