Hearing crazy house musics from your home’s plumbing, water heater or heating system? We explain the cause of all that racket and learn you which each type of chimes incantation bother and which can be ignored.If there’s one thing in our home we want to be pure and fresh every time we reach for it — it’s our irrigate! But that’s not always the case. We’ll explain how to offset the smelly water odor– and hopefully get rid of it altogether.If your yield residence has some vintage wallpaper that’s peeling, we’ll have some tips-off on quick fix to help you preserve the past.Have “youve been” spotted water droplets of even frost INSIDE your windowpanes? Bad closes can cause that difficulty. We share options for the easiest window restores.
Plus, provide answers to your home improvement questions about removing values from older windows, repairing nail pas on drywall, lay soapstone, sealing chimney twinkle, amending a foot sound, improving water pressure.
Do you have a home improvement or decoration question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question here.
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Hey, guys. What are you working on this weekend? If it’s your mansion, you are in precisely the right place because we’re now to help you get those projects done. Whether it is inside or out, upside or down, you’re hard-bitten on yourself because you don’t know what to do first, give us a announcement. We’d love to help. That quantity is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
You know, Leslie, last-place nighttime at about 11:00 p.m ., soul comes down to my doorway and thumped. That was kind of freaky, right?
LESLIE: That’s weird.
TOM: And I cautiously turned the light on and- it’s hard to recognize parties because everyone’s wearing disguises. I opened the door a little bit. It turned out it was my neighbor from three or four lives down. She got locked out of her house.
LESLIE: But still. And I suspect she didn’t have a phone. Was she marching the dog or something?
TOM: She was getting something out of her vehicle. And the thing was she had one of those fastens that has the buttons on it.
LESLIE: Oh, like quarry, where we get locked out often. Yes.
TOM: And the buttons froze. So they wouldn’t work.
TOM: So I honcho over to her house and I got my WD-4 0 and I’m spraying the fastening down. And it precisely wouldn’t budge. And so, I was about ready to try to jimmy the lock. I said, “You know what? Let me just check the rest of the doors.” And sure as shooting, the terrace doorway was open. So I get her in.
But it got me thinking that …
LESLIE: It got you thinking that, clearly, your neighbor has an issue with the doors.
TOM: Well, I’m sure that she’s not alone, either.
LESLIE: No, I know.
TOM: It’s a delightful, handy thing to have because people time use a system to get into. But one of the things that we’ve done is we have a lockbox. I think it’s made by Master Lock. It’s like a sword container that’s genuinely, really strong. And you could framed that somewhere outside your room. It’s got its own combination. You can restrain a spare key in. So there are other ways to kind of prevent this sort of thing from happening to you.
But I precisely made, “Boy, that’s kind of a funny statu but I speculation it happens to a lot of people. And I ought to mention it.”
Hey, if you’ve had something like that or something similar happen and you’ve got a solution, we’d love to hear from you. The number is 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
Got a great show planned for you today. First up, crack, crackling and sounds. Now, that’s a clang that sounds good when it comes from your breakfast cereal, right? But when it comes from your sea heater, maybe not so much. We’re going to dive into the causes of noisy heating systems and banging pipes or toilets that flush mysteriously all by themselves.
LESLIE: And if there’s one thing in our dwelling that we want to be pure and fresh every time we reach for it, it’s our liquid. But that’s not always been. We’re going to explain how to offset the odor and hopefully get rid of it altogether.
TOM: And if your antique dwelling has some, well, perhaps antique wallpaper that’s starting to peel apart, we’re going to have some tips-off on easy sterilizes to assist you perpetuate the past.
LESLIE: But first, we want to know what you want to know. From bathrooms to cellars and demolition to decor, we’re now to share expert gratuities to help you undertake your to-dos with confidence.
TOM: So let’s get started. Give us a bawl, right now, with your dwelling increase question at 1-888-MONEY-PIT. If we’re not in the studio, we’ll call you back the next time we are. And you can also post your questions at MoneyPit.com.
So let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Daniel in Washington is in love with his older home’s openings but needs some assistance working on them. What can we do for you?
DANIEL: I want to know how I can remove them without destroying them or having to cut off the values and letting them dropped in the wall, as I was told that’s what I have to do.
TOM: Well, why do you want to preserve the heaviness, Dan?
DANIEL: Well, I only- my biggest fear is they’re upstairs windows and I don’t want them to cause any shattering when I chip them loose. And I simply want to pull them out intact, I suspect, for visualize what exactly then there. They’re utilized for weights.
TOM: Yeah, you don’t have to worry too much about that. How aged is your house, Dan?
DANIEL: It was building in 1900.
TOM: OK. So, the weights themselves are these sort of round, tubular cases of solid shoot metal. And I wouldn’t worry about letting them stop. They’re merely going to drop to sort of the bottom of the wall cavity. They’re not really going to do any injury. They’ll drop down a couple of feet and stop. But what you do is chipped those cords or detach the bonds, make the weights drop-off, draw out the pulleys, take out the upper and the lower sash and then you placed the replacing space into the rest of the wood, sort of old window enclose that’s left.
That’s the smart move because it’s very easy to do. You don’t have to tear up any backing or anything like that. You basically just take apart the operable sashes and slip the new substitution spaces inside, which you can do because all permutation windows are basically built to fit. That’s the room the technology is designed to work. If you throw in an prescribe for permutation windows, they situated all the numbers into personal computers and it spews out the window at the other end of the assembly line. And you time slip them in and you’re done. It’s a very easy installation.
You need to be really careful in the asses, though. And I would have the company that you’re buying the windows from do the appraise to make sure you get it right. But not to worry about the heaviness. Not a big deal.
DANIEL: And it’s funny you had pointed out that. He actually did come out and look what i found and he “ve been told” that he wouldn’t be able to give me the measurements to get the windows myself. Because when he- they lineup them, the people that installing them “re going to have to” do any handiwork that’s needed to impel them fit properly. Because he just takes a rough measurement.
TOM: So was he time giving you an estimate? Was he there to measure for an estimate?
TOM: Yeah. Well, I means that stimulates sense. Plus, I’ve got to tell you, every company does it a little different. So if you buy it from Manufacturer A, they may measure one route and Manufacturer B might set it slightly differently. So whoever you buy these from, they were required to do the exact calculations. He may have just been appraising so he knows how to cost the succession. But it may have to be measured again before you actually do the order.
LESLIE: Plus, they’re- the numbers are really policed. He might be thinking that if he gives you the exact amounts, you’re going to turn around and going to see another companionship or degree them yourself and “ve been trying to” do it yourself.
TOM: Which you really couldn’t do because what if he has the numbers wrong? You’ll end up paying for windows that don’t fit.
DANIEL: So if we already did- I valued the make on the windows , not the window itself. And we did just framed the order in. So I could be in disturbance here.
TOM: Are you going to go about gave them in yourself?
DANIEL: Yeah. Because it’s- half the cost of the windows was the labor to set them in.
TOM: Well, how did you know how to measure them? Did you get advice from who you bought the windows from?
DANIEL: Yeah. He told me to measure the enclose- not the window , not the part of the window that moves- but he indicated by the frame itself.
DANIEL: And he said that’s the number that they would use if they mail soul out.
DANIEL: And then he offered, because it was free, and when- to send somebody out. And when the person depicted up, he did the various kinds of- “Whoa, hold the line. I simply kind of give them rough numbers and they do what they need to do to stimulate them fit from there.”
TOM: What I would do, if I is traditionally saying windows, is I would get the advice on how exactly they need to be ordered. I would represent- make the measurements and order them to fit. If that’s what you did and you followed their directions, you should be OK. The thing is, if you’ve got it wrong, you’re going to get a window that doesn’t fit and you’re going to have a problem. But as long as you followed their regulations, then you should be OK.
DANIEL: Alright. It exactly various kinds of concluded me worry when the guy that evidenced up here gave me a different story than the guy down at the store.
TOM: Yep. Yeah, well, they’re all professionals; they all have their way.
LESLIE: And clearly they’re not talking to each other.
DANIEL: Yeah. Like I said, that was the role that scared me and why I wanted to get some advice on this.
TOM: Alright. Well, I hope that helps you out, Daniel. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Ann in Georgia, you are on the line with The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
ANN: Well, my home was improved back in the 60 s and I know now when they put up drywall, “theyre using” drywall screws.
ANN: But back then, they used a hammer.
TOM: Yep. And tacks, mm-hmm.
ANN: And I’ve got these dings on the walls and the ceiling. And I’ve tried to put spackle over the top of them and scraping it off and sand it and then paint it and there they are; they come right back again. Is there anything I can do to sort of cover it or do I have to take down all the drywall?
LESLIE: No , no. Are you sure it’s a hammer ding and not a claw dad? Does it seem like it’s conjured or does it seem like it’s recessed?
ANN: They’re recessed.
TOM: They’re adjourned. OK.
So, the mixture here is spackling but it’s not just a one-shot thing. What you want to do is employed multiple hairs of spackle on, Ann. So “youre starting”- and you can go out to a dwelling midst or a hardware store and you can buy plastic spackle bayonets that are basically disposable.
So you start out with one that’s about 2 inches, then you go to one that’s about 4 or 5 inches, then you go with one that’s like 6- or 8-inches wide. And if you turn in three blankets like that, you’ll fill it in, it’ll be completely flat.
But you can’t just stop there. If you’re going to start doing this around the house, you’re going to have to repaint all of those faces and you should prime them first. Because if not, you’re going to get different absorption between the areas that were newly spackled and the age-old ones. And that will result in sort of like a eerie kind of glazing or sort of shade difference with the road the depict kind of takes.
ANN: Oh, OK.
TOM: Alright? Now, if you have one that looks like it’s cracked- what Leslie was talking about are announced “nail pops”- and frankly, that’s much more likely than the dents you’re describing, unless you time happen to have a really over-aggressive person with a hammer that settled that thing together back in the 60 s.
LESLIE: Those dents are haunting you 50 years later.
ANN: I know.
TOM: Yeah. The claw sounds, you could introduced another fingernail next to the one that’s sort of adhere out and drive it in. And that- the second nail will hold in the first fingernail. But retain, it’s genuinely key that you sand, prime and cover to make this all go away.
And lastly, the type of paint you use is critical. Make sure you use flat make-up; do not use anything with a sheen. Because when you placed something with a sheen on a wall, any flaw in the wall becomes overstated when the daybreak hits it.
ANN: Well, that’s enormous advice.
TOM: Alright, Ann. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Billy in Texas is on the line with some deck-building questions. What can we do for you today?
BILLY: My question is what wood should I improve it out of to last longer: redwood, the analyse beam or- I don’t know. I’ve had cronies tell me I needed to go with the Louisiana wood that they …
TOM: Yeah. Your alternatives are treated wood, a decay- or disease-resistant wood like redwood or cedar or a composite. You wouldn’t use untreated timber because it would rot quickly.
But here’s the thing: if you like real natural-looking wood, then there’s no reason not to use discussed lumber. If you just wanted to step it up a little, you could use redwood or cedar. It’s going to be an expensive ameliorate. But no matter what kind of wood you use, you will have to treat it. Because even if you use redwood or cedar, if you don’t employed a shut or a stain on there, it’s going to fade because of the daylight and it’s going to splinter and break down and crack. So if you’re going to go with wood, you’re going to have to use a solid-color stain on there to make sure it’s preserved.
Now, the other option- which you didn’t mention- is composite. And if you go with composite decorate, then there’s certainly almost no maintenance that you have to do to it. Sometimes it gets a little dirty and has to be rubbed but it doesn’t crack, it doesn’t check, it doesn’t twist. It’s ever pleasant under bare hoof. It’s going to be a little more expensive but when you add up the cost of the grove and the maintenance and the blot and all of that, maybe …
LESLIE: And the physical costs of actually doing the maintenance.
TOM: That’s right. Maybe not so much.
So, those would be the pros and cons of going with wood versus composite. But if you miss something that’s not going to have a lot of maintenance headaches and it’s going to last-place a long time, I is certainly go with composite.
LESLIE: Well, all dwellings have a personality in terms of the rackets that they induce. Certainly, there are some strange rackets that come from all different recess of the chamber of representatives. And sometimes, they’re only seasonal changes. Maybe it’s the heating-and-cooling system kicking on and off and precisely being in general. You know, there’s a lot going on that we usually don’t think about. But sometimes, those bangs can be a predictor of a potential problem.
TOM: Yeah, that’s right. So, for example, if your sea heater is making a gurgling bang, it’s often caused by rust or sediment or mineral proliferation in the barrel. And while that’s not a major problem by itself, it’s more common in older water heaters because they’re more prone to rust and add buildup. So, “youve been” has to be checking the age.
LESLIE: Now, the average life of a sea heater is about 10 year olds. So, to figure out how old-fashioned your unit is, take a look at the serial number. It’s going to be listed on that data plate, right on the unit itself. In most cases, the first two toes are the year the heater was manufactured.
Now, checking that out, if it seems to be getting close to 10 times, it’ll be less expensive to change the unit before you need to pay a plumber overtime to replace it in the midst of the darknes, when you’ve got no hot water and a big mess on your hands.
TOM: Definitely. Now, if your toilet blushes on its own, it usually represents the flush valve, which is that rubber flapper thing in the bottom of the tank, is seeping. What happens is it gives water out into the bowl. And then when the container comes low-pitched fairly, the replenish valve knocks in and refills the container. And that’s what answers in that sort of mysterious flush.
Now, if you want to confirm that the redden valve is actually the thing that’s leaking, here’s a little trick of the craft. You can open the top of the barrel and pour a few drops of food coloring in the tank, close it and wait about 15 hours or more. And if you see that food color show up in the bowl itself, the only way it’s getting there is around a bad flapper. That necessitates it’s leaking and it needs to be replaced.
Now, if that’s the subject, you’ll need to drain the cistern for the project, so I would suggest you change both the replenish and the blush valves at the same time. It’s a very basic plumbing project and areas won’t cost more than about 15 or 20 bucks.
LESLIE: Yeah. It’s a super confidence-builder when it comes to a plumbing assignment, because you can definitely do it and you’ll be so proud that you’ve attained it.
Now, let’s talk about how to quiet down those noisy pipes. Now, banging pipes are frequently is generated by a sea mallet, which is essentially what happens when water is running through the pipings and then it unexpectedly stops when you close the valve. Now, if the pipes are loose, the momentum of that liquid is going to cause those tubes to shake, arising in what is commonly called a “water hammer.”
Now, there are currently two solutions. First of all, you’ve got to secure any loose hoses that you can easily access. And secondly, if that slamming is really bad, you can have a plumber come in and install a water-hammer arrestor, which does pretty much what it says. It’s a leaf springs for your plumbing and it helps it to stop fixing that audio altogether.
TOM: Yeah. And irrigate mallet rarely motives pipes to reveal but it doesn’t mean you need to put up with it, peculiarly if the sterilize is as simple as securing those release pipes.
LESLIE: Karen in Kansas is taking on a tiling assignment. How can we help you with that?
KAREN: Yes, we were wondering the difference between the SnapStone- what’s the pros and cons of that and the traditional?
TOM: Well, I mean the SnapStone is an easy installation. It’s truly aimed at DIYers and it constitutes it a good deal easier to lean it together. You don’t have to align them because you’ll get sort of perfect 1/4 -inch or so …
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. They’re like gridded out already.
TOM: Yeah. You get excellent grout indications with it. You can actually physically make them apart and reuse them if you demand. But it’s only a lot easier for a DIYer to install them.
Are you going to do this yourself?
KAREN: Yes, that’s- we were going to try, from the very beginning of our bathroom, and see how it appeared and …
KAREN: If it labor- if we could do it right, then we were going to continue on into the kitchen and dining room.
TOM: Well, what you’re probably going to need to do is rent a sodden watch, because chipping the tile is what separates the pros from the DIYers.
TOM: If you don’t have the right- if you have the right tools, it’s really easy; if you don’t, it’s simply not. And tiling is very unforgiving. But if it’s a small area, a small project and you’ve never done tile before, I recollect going with the SnapStone is probably a good first try. It’ll be probably more forgiving than if you did it with regular tile.
KAREN: Cost-wise, how long would it previous in comparison with other, do you think?
TOM: I think it should last the same time, which is pretty much indefinitely.
LESLIE: Mm-hmm. The only downside I can see is that you’ve only got 11 tile hand-pickeds, so you’ve got to like what they’ve get. Whereas if you’re installing tile in a traditional appreciation, sky’s the limit as far as tile choice, layout, structure, intend, everything. So if you’re OK with something in their color palette, which seems like a good race, it looks like there could be something for your work. Then I say do it.
KAREN: OK. Well, thank you so very much.
TOM: You’re welcome. Good luck with that campaign. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Robert in Oregon is on the line and is having an issue with some plaster walls at his house. How can we help you?
ROBERT: Well, I was finishing a room in my bedroom and after pertaining the plaster, some of the plaster was coming off after I decorated it. But initially, I did the living room, which was my firstly racket, and I desegregated it- a cluster of the plaster- Imperial plaster. And of course, I mingled too much and it came hard-handed, you know? So I learned not to desegregate so much, because it merely – you are unable use so much during a certain time before it mounts up.
So, anyway, in the next room, I drywalled it, finished it and then I squandered a product announced Plaster-Weld, which is supposed to be a primer for the plaster.
TOM: Right. Plaster-Weld is a bonding agent.
TOM: And you used this on top of drywall? Is that remedy?
TOM: Was it new drywall?
ROBERT: Yeah, brand-new drywall.
ROBERT: But I’d primed the walls first and then leant the Plaster-Weld over that.
TOM: OK. Hmm. OK.
ROBERT: And then mixed up my plaster- it was Imperial plaster- and applied it and finished it all up and troweled it to the texture I required. And then we went back- my wife and I- and touched up a few cases smudges and then tell it cool overnight. Then we situated a primer on it and while putting the primer on it, some of the plaster was coming off.
TOM: First of all, I would not have primed the drywall. I don’t certainly consider a reason to do that. You primary the drywall to control adhesion and to stop the absorption, I should say, of the brand-new colour- the top coating of decorate- and to get an even sheen. But you weren’t really concerned about sheen because you intended to do a plaster coat.
You were basically improving what’s announced “plaster lath.” This is the way homes were done in the 50 s, where you have a drywall base and then you put a plaster coat on top of that. The bonding worker was the best thing to do but that should have gone instantly onto the drywall. Now you put the drywall on, then you placed a primer over that and then you introduced the bonding agent on top of that. So now you have to get the bonding agent to stick to the primer and that’s a little more difficult than coming it to stick to the raw drywall.
So I think you’ve “ve got a situation” now where you’re going to have this problem potentially repeating itself. So I hate to tell you this but what I might do is articulate another bed of drywall over this- a real thin layer- and start again. You don’t have to use 1/2 -inch; you can use 1/4 -inch really to skim it. And then articulated the plaster over that.
ROBERT: Alright. Thanks.
TOM: You’re welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, if there’s one thing in our residence that we want to be pure and fresh every time we reach for it, it’s our ocean. Now, if your ocean smells more like rotten eggs, there might a simple solution.
First of all, let’s first talk about what that stench is. Now, when you smell that rotten-egg smell, it’s sulfur. And it tends to rear its stinky front most often in residences that are located on a groundwater supply. And it happens because the groundwater can pick up hydrogen sulfide, which is a naturally occurring gas. And that hydrogen sulfide gets absorbed into the water and then comes into the house. It’s not risky. It’s not detrimental to your health. It only smells yucky and it’s annoying.
TOM: Yeah. So , now that we know, let’s talk about how to treat it. If the smell seems to be coming from both hot and cold water, then you need to call your well contractor. They’re going to install a filter that minimizes the sulfur that contacts your house.
But if that smelly water is simply coming from the sizzling area, what you need to do is to replace the sacrificial anode baton inside your hot-water heater. Now, sacrificial anodes are made of magnesium. And that is something that the hydrogen sulfide assaults, releasing that rotten-egg smell and eating away at the baton at the same time.
LESLIE: Yep. And that’s why they’re called “sacrificial.”
TOM: That’s right. They are laying down their lives for fresh-smelling water. So, when you oust that old-fashioned magnesium rod …
LESLIE: Somebody’s got to get do it.
TOM: Yeah. You want to buy one, though, that is an aluminum sacrificial anode rod. These are more resistant to that hydrogen sulfide. And it’s going to get the job done, without likelihood of so much sulfur sticking to them and then ultimately being released back into your residence and shaping your sea aroma stinky.
Those batons, they’re fairly affordable; they’re about 30 horses. And you could find them at any plumbing-supply location.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Lu from North Carolina on the line who’s dealing with a water-pressure issue. How can we help you today?
LU: I don’t have any water pressure in my house and I was just wondering what to induce the water adversity a bit higher.
TOM: Now, has this always been a problem or is it a recent question?
LU: I think it’s always been a problem.
TOM: Yeah. How aged is your house, Lu?
LU: Forty-three years old.
TOM: Is it a well-water system or is it a city-water system?
LU: I don’t know.
TOM: Do you compensate a ocean bill?
TOM: Alright. So it’s city water, then, if you’re paying a liquid bill.
So, then, what I would do is this: I would start by having the ocean influences checked at wall street and find out what the irrigate persuade is coming into your residence. It needs to be between about 50 and 80 pounds or so to give you nice liquid pressure.
If there’s good sea pres at wall street, then we have to go inside and start to figure out where it’s being restricted. It could be by the pipe, it could be by the water valve or it could be by fixtures. But if it’s evenly good across the entire house, it’s more likely to be somewhere near the main liquid valve. It could be partially closed, it could be clogged with mineral deposits.
But I would start by contacting the water company and tell them that the liquid push in your live is not acceptable and then have them test the water pressure at the main for- where it comes into your house and see what’s going on. It could be that there’s a number of problems at the main that they could fix right there without even having to come in your house. OK, Lu?
LU: OK, OK. I’ll contact them.
TOM: Good luck with that projection. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Jim in Arkansas is on the line with a chimney question. How can we help you today?
JIM: Well, the above reasons I called is because I have an issue with my hearth. It’s only a regular wood-burner. It doesn’t have an insert in it. And I want to seal the chimney for state and energy-loss rationales. I was thinking about putting a steel plate on the top. Because here in the Ozarks, whenever we get bad weather and that breeze is howling, it is just like a freight train coming through my fireplace and I have quite a bit of a draft. And the damper only does not maintained securely fairly so I don’t get that air through there.
I was wondering, can you give me some admonition as to who to contact if it’s feasible to do something like this? Is safe areas of concern?
TOM: It’s certainly feasible to do this project. It’s sort of the kind of project that you’ve got to be a bit creative with, because what you’re going to want to do is try to organize some sort of weather-tight shield across the top of the flue. I would tell you that whatever you do to this, make it removable because lucks are if you sell this house at some target in the future, somebody might find it really attractive to have a fireplace there in the Ozarks and want to reactivate this chimney, so to speak.
So, however you seal it across the top, you’ve came find out- encounter a simple way to do that. One thing that comes to mind is that there’s a damp that fits in the top of a chimney liner. And it’s sort of like a weighted, ponderous, metal doorway. And the highway it’s triggered is that there’s a stainless-steel cable that goes down through the middle of the chimney and it’s stole onto the side of the hearth. And when you secrete the cable, the door duds open. So that would be a way to apply a device up there that’s actually designed for a vent and will be represented the dual purpose of sealing off the draft from the top.
JIM: OK. Well, I thank you very much for giving me the time. And I love your show. Listen to it 2 hours every Sunday morning.
TOM: Alright. Well, thank you very much, Jim. It’s nice to hear. We appreciate it.
LESLIE: Well, if your dwelling has yield wallpaper that you’ve been experiencing for countless, many years but now it’s got seams that are peeling or article that’s bubbling, you might be able to preserve it and here’s how.
Now, both pre-pasted and traditional wallpaper might begin to peel in the places where the two strips gratify. With the pre-pasted paper, the adhesive might not were completely related during the manufacturing process. And strata likewise become loose if too much paste was constricted out of that seam during the installation. You know, when you’re sort of squeegeeing that wallpaper flat and going back and forth with the brush one, it kind of comes out of the seams and sometimes you exactly push out too much, which is also bad.
Well, regardless of how this has happened, you can start the repair process by gently, gently plucking back that wallpaper to where it’s kind of still perfectly adhered to the wall. And then, abusing a small artist paintbrush and wallpaper-seam adhesive, you want to spread the adhesive onto the wall, under the seam.
Next, you’re going to smooth the wallpaper back up over that adhesive and use a small, wooden seam roller to drop it completely and then a dampen cloth or leech to wipe up any sort of leftover adhesive that might’ve constricted out onto the paper. And that’s important, too, because you don’t want it to stain the paper. But don’t wipe away too much. It’s a delicate poise but you’ll get it.
TOM: Yeah. You think you’re doing a good job by rolled that seam really hard but then you’re pushing out the paste at the same time.
Now, if you’re seeing foams under the paper, that’s a different place. Those are most likely caused by trapped breeze that wasn’t perfectly purged and smoothed away from under that wallpaper when it was firstly was put forward. So, before you are trying to a deposit, only double-check. You want to feel that bubble there with your finger to make sure that it’s soft, marking there’s air underneath. And you want to make sure that there’s nothing trapped underneath. Sometimes, you’ll get a nail pop that will push out and that’s precisely more wall and you can’t do anything about that.
But once you confirm it’s exactly air, then fill a small adhesive syringe with wallpaper adhesive. Insert the tip-off of the syringe through the paper. You might need to take an X-ACTO knife and induce me a bit, insignificant space in it. And then introduce some of that adhesive claim under that bubble. And once you’re done, smooth that paper down, again, with a seam roller. Follow it up with a mute cloth or a sponge to get rid of any of the additional adhesive and you probably will have bought yourself a few cases more years of enjoying that beautiful wallpaper.
LESLIE: Now we’ve came Nicole in Illinois on the line who needs to fix a hit in a wall. And you’re saying it’s from an shake? When did you have an earthquake in Illinois?
NICOLE: Well, it was just a really small earthquake. We get them simply randomly, about one or two a year.
NICOLE: Because we’re right on- there’s some defect that’s down south of us.
TOM: And now that fault has worked its mode up into your wall. So what does it look like? How large-hearted of a cranny is this that we need to fix?
NICOLE: It’s about an 18 -inch crack and then that’s going down from the ceiling. And then it croaks like- it extends diagonally up the wall and then affects the ceiling and then just moves horizontally on the ceiling for a couple of inches.
TOM: So it’s 18 inches long wholly?
TOM: How old-fashioned is the home?
NICOLE: It’s not very old, like’ 99.
TOM: OK. So it’s a drywall fracture then.
TOM: Numerous parties will simply spackle that but the problem is that if you spackle that sound, the wall is now always going to move- and walls always do move but now that the wall has a crack, the two sides of that are going to move at different frequencies. And so that sound will reform. The way you stop that from happening is by taping over that fissure with drywall strip and then spackling it.
Now, taping with newspaper drywall strip can be a bit dicey, so there’s a make out that’s a perforated drywall videotape that was like a netting. It’s like a sticky-backed netting. And that type of perforated videotape is the best one to use because you settled the videotape on first and then you spackle over it. You want to do two or three coatings, starting with smaller hairs and then labouring wider as you go.
And remember, the thinner the hair the better; I’d preferably you put one across more coats than put on too much spackle, which too many people tend to do. Then it kind of gets all gooped up and piled up on your wall and you’ll see it forever. So, thin hairs- two or three thin hairs- and that should do it.
NICOLE: OK. Alright. Thank you.
TOM: You’re welcome, Nicole. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Hey, Cheryl from Rhode Island posted her question on MoneyPit.com. Now, she writes: “My den has a vaulted ceiling with exposed Styrofoam rafters. They’re coated black. The ceiling is white. The walls are yellowed. I’d like to paint the Styrofoam lights. What shade do you intimate? ”
I aim …
TOM: Black, white and yellowed is a good situate to start.
LESLIE: Yeah. I feel parties really get so kind of stopped and confounded when it comes time to pick out a dye complexion, whether it’s for a wall, an accent coloring. Whatever it might be, there’s endless picks. So I think that’s where people genuinely get junketed up.
Now, your beams are foam. Painting them in a solid pigment is kind of – you know, you’re missing an opportunity to make them feel like the material that they’re representing. And faux bois, or forgery lumber as it comes to translate to, is no longer a seriously difficult technique to kind of master and get really good at in a short amount of season. There’s tools for it this kind of get dragged through, that utter that wood grain.
There’s one that appears more like a wheel blueprint, that sort of seems to have more of- I would call it like a “fingerprint” that feels more like a lumber grain. But there’s others that have a triangle with three different diameters of triangle teeth on each side, that you kind of drag through and imitative the graining of the wood.
So, I would start with one township of brown as your cornerstone make-up. Let that baked and then go in with either a feeling lighter or a tint darker, depending on what type of wood you’re trying to duplicate. And just make it look like it’s real wood and go in a dark-brown color that you like.
TOM: Yeah. Sometimes, you can use the really heavy cheesecloth to drag it through the finish when it’s wet. And that sometimes procreates it was like the grain is standing up on the wood, very. So, there’s lots of subterfuges and tips and techniques like that. And you can really make it was like wood.
LESLIE: Yeah. And it’s a amusing project to do.
TOM: Alright. Alan in Pennsylvania is interpreting some sparkler inside his windows. He says that- “My replacement windows are about 10 years old. I notice they freeze or frost up about 1/2 -inch on the bottom of the top window. Each year, it gets a little bigger. Is there a sweat question or a opening problem or no problem at all? ”
Well, Alan, I think what you’re seeing is condensation that has gotten into that opening because the pane- the seal between the panes- has spilt, as they do over the years. And in the warmer forecast, you may not be seeing much of it, in terms of the humidity or water droplets. But in the winter, apparently you’re seeing a lot more and that’s what’s freezing. The good report is your windows are a little less efficient but they’re not enormously inefficient. It might be indication of a time to think about replacing them.
But that’s what’s causing them. And the only fix here is to get new windows.
LESLIE: And you know what, Alan? I know supplanting openings can tend to be an expensive project. But sort of tackle this in stages. That’s totally acceptable. Think about doing one surface of the house first. Which side is in the most disrepair or giving you the hardest time? Start with that area. Do that. Wait a little while. Do the next one. It’s not something you have to sort of go all in. You’re not going to save a tremendous amount of money by coming everything at once. So do what you can within your budget and it’ll genuinely used to work well for you.
TOM: Yeah. I mean if you’re mainly concerned about heating legislations, then do the countries of the north surface and the eastern side first. If you are more concerned about saving on air-conditioning statutes, then do the southern surface and the west side. Totally up to you. It’s a pretty straightforward, easy project these days. They’re called “replacement windows” but actually, all those windows are custom-made by default. And you’re going to find that they’re much more efficient than the ones that you have right now.
LESLIE: Just measure carefully. And if you don’t think you can, get someone to do it for you.
TOM: This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Thank you so much for expend this part of your era with us. We hope you’ve experienced this incident. If you have questions about a project you’d like to get done around your home, retain, you can reach out to us in a couple of ways: either by term us, 24/7, at 1-888-MONEY-PIT, affixing your question at MoneyPit.com or affixing your question at Facebook.com/ TheMoneyPit.
I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t “re going to have to” do it alone.
( Copyright 2021 Squeaky Door Product, Inc. No fraction of this transcript or audio record may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Yield, Inc .)
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