You can even apart a piling of money improving your shower. Luckily, you don’t have to. We’ve came 4 low-cost ways to spruce up your infinite for under $200 horses! Even the cleanest of homes can have mold, and we’re not just talking about what you might find in last week’s leftovers! We share the surprising plazas mold can obscure and what the hell is do you do when you find it.When you move into an suite, you’ll be expected to pay a impairment security deposit. Getting it back, may not be quite so easy. We’ll tell you how to protect yourself from a proprietor who wants to use your sediment unfairly.If the teenagers operating upstairs make it tough for you to get any work done downstairs, we’ve get sound proofing tips to restore family harmony.
Plus, answers to your dwelling betterment questions on eliminating bio gas odors, stopping woodpeckers from injury our chimney, repairing crackings in plaster placing, removing wallpaper with destroying the walls underneath.
Do you have a home improvement or decor question? Call the show 24/7 at 888 -MONEY-PIT ( 888 -6 66 -3 974) or post your question now.
EPISODE # 2086: 4 Beautiful Bath Upgrades Under $200 | DIY Mold Cleanups | Avoid Losing Security Deposits | Soundproofing Between Floors
TOM: Coast to coast and floorboards to shingles, this is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Now to help answer your questions about your activities you’d like to get done around your mansion. If you’re working inside or out, if you’re working on your kitchen, your lavatory, your basement, if there’s a project that you have in mind to do, whether it’s a home progress, whether it’s a amend, whether it’s a decorating programme, we would love to hear from you and we would love to help.
You can reach out to us a few different ways. You can call us at 888 -MONEY-PIT. That’s 888 -6 66 -3 974. And the room that works is we will call you back the next time we create the testify and answer your question. At least we’ll make an attempt. We frequently make a couple of attempts to get back in contacts with kinfolks. Or you can post your questions at MoneyPit.com.
Coming up on today’s show, you can flush away quite a pile of currency refurbishing your lavatory. But luckily, you don’t have to. We’re going to feature four low-cost ways to spruce up your room for under 200 horses each.
LESLIE: Alright. That’s awesome. And likewise ahead, even the cleanest of dwellings can have mold. And we’re not just talking about what you might find in your last week’s leftovers, chaps. But we’re going to share the surprising sits that mold can hide and what you should be doing when you find it.
TOM: And you know what? When you move into an suite, you’ll be expected to pay a injure security deposit. Now, get it back may not be quite so easy. So we’re going to tell you how to protect you from a landlord who might want to try to use your lodge unfairly.
LESLIE: Alright. We’ve got a great show meant. So tell us, guys, what are you working on? Reach out, let us know your project questions. We’re going to give you some gratuities to help you get that campaign done once, get it done right. So this practice, you don’t have to get it on again. Well, at least for a long time.
TOM: Well, that’s right. And guess what? We may even give you some tools to assist you get that job done, because we’ve got a stupendous giveaway going out to one luck listener. Someone who contacts out to us with a residence progress question- and remember, I said you’ve got to have a question , not only “I just wanted to acquire the tools.” Because guess what, guys? We’ve got a HART 20 -Volt Cordless 4-Tool Combo Kit to give away worth 178 bucks. Sweet.
HART Tools are well started. They’re versatile. They’re available alone at Walmart. And this one cordless, four-tool positioned is available at Money Pit right now. So call us with your questions at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or pole them at MoneyPit.com.
Let’s get to it. Leslie, who’s firstly?
LESLIE: Carol in Delaware needs some help with some insulation recommendations. What’s going on?
CAROL: Hi. We improved, about two years ago, a pole house that we are insulating one-third of, that we are performing into living space for a shop.
CAROL: And the whole pole building was wrapped in Double Bubble, including the ceiling. So , now that we are getting ready to enclose- or encapsulate or enclose this area- it’s 20 x30x14. We need to know what type of insulation you would recommend over the Double Bubble?
TOM: Now, when you say Double Bubble, I’m not actually very well known that term.
CAROL: It is like bubble wrap.
CAROL: And it’s closed-cell, so it’s only a flatten that they- it’s a rolled make that they put out, like a bubble wrap.
TOM: Oh, OK. I make I’ve seen this. It’s like a foil-faced product? It’s not going to have very much R-value at all.
CAROL: No, it doesn’t.( inaudible)
TOM: It’s apparently not going to hold much heat in. I think your best option here for insulating that seat is spray-foam insulation. Spray-foam insulation can seal all of the divergences that will be in that shell. You don’t need as much of it, in terms of thickness. And it does a good job of not only insulating but sealing out the drafts. So, I would most recommend spraying sud over a fiberglass-batt insulation for this particular space.
CAROL: OK. And my husband’s sitting here. You’re on speakerphone. Would you recommend open- or closed-cell?
TOM: So, closed-cell is going to be better for moist sites. If you’re considerate about moisture- concerned about humidity – you would use the closed-cell. But open-cell does precisely a very good job, as well. I actually have both in my home. In my crawlspace, I have closed-cell for the box joists and in the walls and the ceiling rafters I have open-cell.
CAROL: OK. And then what would you do with the ceiling?
TOM: With the bubble wrapper that’s there?
CAROL: There’s a gap between the ceiling and the roof. What would you recommend putting in that space?
TOM: So “youve had” two options. If you crave, you could insulate the underside of the roof rafters and consider that attic opening to be part of the conditioned space, one of the purposes of the searing space. I symbolize not the hot cavity but it would segregate there. Or you were able to positioned the spray-foam insulation in all the regions of the ceiling and meet the attic completely unconditioned.
If you make it a conditioned space- if you insulate underneath the roof rafters – you’ll find that, you know, if you need it for storage, it’s not going to have the same kind of temperature extremes that you would have in an attic that was just more traditional and it was just whatever temperature it was outside. Whether it was 110 units in the summer or 10 stages in the winter, that’s the temperature that attic’s going to be. So, it’s simply kind of your personal liking. But wherever you decide to compile that barrier, I’d make it with scatter foam.
Take a look at Icynene- I-c-y-n-e-n-e- Icynene Insulation.
CAROL: What would you recommend as far as the heating/ air-conditioning system we have? We have two areas: “were having” the wide-open space and then we have a lavatory gap that will be in that area.
TOM: Do you have gas- natural gas- accessible?
CAROL: Yeah, we do. We have propane.
TOM: You have propane? Yeah. Well, I thoughts propane’s going to be- probably be your best option. I’d prefer- my prescribe of preference on oils would be natural gas, followed probably by oil and then propane almost about the same. But propane is probably OK with an efficient furnace. And then electric would be last-place; that would just cost you a boatload of money.
But I judge probably a propane gas furnace that’s a high-efficiency furnace. In the open space, you’re going to use a room heater that’s like one of those large-scale furnaces that hangs up sort of in the air and warms that whole cavity. In the lavatory, that smaller neighborhood, if that could be connected to the same heating system that’s heating that office- is this bathroom separate from the living space you’re talking about or is it part of it? Because you’re going to need heat throughout that entire living space, aren’t you?
CAROL: Right. We’ll need heat throughout the whole living space. The bathroom will be closed off as a bathroom so that …
TOM: I consider probably – you’d probably going to end up putting a furnace up in that attic. Seems like you’ve got some room up there for it. But gave a gas furnace up there and you can use that for heating and air conditioning.
CAROL: OK. What do you think about the separate forces?
TOM: The split-ductless units?
LESLIE: They range beautifully, though, but they’ll be expensive.
CAROL: I thank you’ve answered our questions. Thank you very much.
TOM: Alright, Jessie. Well, good luck to you and your spouse with that project and send us illustrations when you’re done.
CAROL: I sure will. Thank you.
LESLIE: Wayne in Iowa is on the line with a septic concern. Tell us what’s going on.
WAYNE: Well, when I take a bath, I have odor when I drain the tub. If I take a shower, I have no odor when I take- when I take a shower, obviously, I don’t plug the depletion. But everything races through down to one piping, which goes out to a septic tank. I do know the line is good from the house to the septic tank, because I had to dig that up before I ever did any of the plumbing in the chamber of representatives. I did not replumb the drain on the tub but otherwise, the chamber of representatives has new plumbing throughout.
TOM: So we don’t think that it’s in the drain line. For example, when you talk about sewer odors, the first thing you think of is a missing trap. But if the plumbing has been redone, it’s not likely that that’s the event, remedy?
WAYNE: No, it has a trap. And it doesn’t leak into the basement but I- whenever I take a shower, it labor penalty. But if I take a tub bath and pull the plug on the depletion, I get a sewer odor in the hallway outside the bathroom.
TOM: Because the other cause of those odors is something called “biogas”- is when you get a lot of bacteria that can form in a drainage. And it may not even be the ditch of the tub; it could be the drainage of the subside. I presume there’s a sink in that same bathroom. And sometimes, even in the overflow path of the submerge, you get this bacterial escalation that can have just an dreaded odor to it.
And the answer there is to exhaustively clean it with an oxygenated bleach so that you killed last bacteria, reddening out the overflow canal, rubbing the drain with almost like a bottle brush to make sure that all of that bacteria is eliminated.
Biogas can be very pungent and distasteful been like living with but relatively simple to get rid of formerly you get to the spot where it exists. Will you pay that a shot?
WAYNE: Yes, sir. I most certainly shall.
TOM: Alright. Good luck with that project. Thanks so much for announcing The Money Pit.
LESLIE: Well, when you listen to The Money Pit, you get the answers, of course, to your residence improvement and your decoration questions but you likewise provided an opportunity to win implements to get those projects done. And we’ve got an amazing defined of tools that we’re ready to give away today from HART.
We’ve came up for grabs the HART 20 -Volt Cordless 4-Tool Combo. Now, this is great. It includes the HART Drill Driver, an impact driver, a reciprocating saw, an LED light, two 20 -volt batteries, a fast charger and a 16 -inch tool baggage to keep it all in. And I adore that the two batteries allow you to sort of keep one on commission and then, as you’re working and that artillery gusts down, you’ve got another one ready to go. Or you can have two implements starting at the same time. I imply it’s really fantastic.
The implements are super versatile and they’re very well established. And they will definitely help you tackle your next DIY project.
TOM: They’re accessible alone at Walmart, render a terminated course of tools and accessories so you can easily tackle any campaign. Do it with HART. Learn more at HARTTools.com.
Now, we’re giving the HART 20 -Volt 4-Tool Combo apart to one listener selected at random that calls us with a home improvement question. My team in the studio has evaded me to make sure we make this very clear that you must have a question, because they get pummeled with people that precisely just wanted to acquire the prize.
LESLIE: And don’t phrase “Can I have the tools? ” as a question like, “Can I have appropriate tools? ”
TOM: Yeah. It is not a question, right.
We love that you want to win but we want to- we want you to participate, as well. So, if you’ve got a project in memory, this is your chance. Call us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT or affix your questions at MoneyPit.com.
LESLIE: Kelly in South Dakota is on the line and requires some improve removing wallpaper. What can we do for you?
KELLY: I have a- some wallpaper that I want to remove. And I thought we primed the walls. This has been about 10 year ago. And when I drew back on the leading edge of the wallpaper, it seems as though it’s taking a bit of the drywall with it.
TOM: So, what you want to do is you want to get a tool called a “paper tiger, ” which makes tiny pits in the surface of the paper. And it helps the wallpaper remover is behind it and loosen up the adhesive.
Now, in terms of wallpaper remover, you can use fabric softener, which works well or you could use a commercially available product, like DIF- D-I-F. But putting those openings in there is important because, otherwise, it doesn’t saturate the paper.
Now, if you do that and it still doesn’t loosen up and draw off, then what you need to do is go out and fee a wallpaper steamer. And that will use warm, moist air to separate the working paper from the wall.
No matter how you do it, it is a lot of work. And formerly that wallpaper is off, you’re going to need to reprime that wall with a good-quality primer so you have a nice surface upon which to put your final emblazon of wall paint.
KELLY: OK. Do you need to beach that once you get it all done?
TOM: Well, if it’s a little rough, just thinly sand it. You don’t want to sand it too much, peculiarly because you don’t want to cut into the paper that’s part of the drywall. But a little of light-footed abrasion is not a bad thing.
But the most important thing is a good-quality priming paint applied to that wall skin-deep, because you’re going to have old-time sizing fabric and who-knows-what-else stuck to that. And if you kept the primer on, it’ll give you a good surface upon which to apply the draw. The depict will spurt nicely and it’ll look better where reference is dries.
KELLY: Well, thank you very much. I appreciate that.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for calling us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, you can flush away a accumulation of currency refurbishing a bathroom but fortunately, you don’t have to. We’ve get four low-cost paths that you can spruce up your seat for under 200 bucks.
Now, first of all, you can paint those lockers a new colouring. It’s a super-quick, cost-effective way to really make a big change. Now, to do so when you’re painting any sort of cabinet structure, a frivolity, whatever it is, you just wanted to make the doors and the drawer fronts off. Paint those separately. Then, all of cabinet ministers faces, you should wash them, sand them, prime them. You want to get to a nice, fresh surface that’s going to really cause that paint affix. Prime it and then decorate it.
And it’s a really good weekend project, specially because the bathroom space is so super big. And if you get bored in a few years, you are only exactly coat it again and it’s not a lot of money.
TOM: Next, you can rethink your mirror. You know, mirrors are often one expense that is not considered in the initial lavatory erect. We often settle for a frameless, wall-mounted sort of builder’s mirror, which does the job but it’s not very glamorous.
So, one thing that you could do is to consider adding off-the-shelf, molded cornices or pare that you can combine in any number of ways. There’s some really nice PVC molding out there that’s mostly peel-and-stick, that seeks just like lumber when it’s decorated. And by simply adding a frame, you can create sort of an instant explanation article in your bathroom, for as little as perhap 30 bucks.
LESLIE: Yeah. And that material is perfect for your shower space.
Now, one other thing: reform up that bathroom lighting. When you think about it, you’re in the shower, there’s a lot of different things that you do in the gap: you reduce, you turn in your makeup, you take tightening tubs. So you various kinds of need a variety of lighting. But it is necessary to that lighting to be able to be bright so “when youre doing” those tasks that need the illuminate, you’ve got the right light-footed for it.
Now, today’s LEDs, there are so many different color temperatures. When you buy those bulbs, pay attention to what that is. Because too cool, you’re going to look sick; too warm, you’re going to look scary. We don’t miss it so bright where you various kinds of actually experience whatever it is you look like when you’re waking up in the morning. But we want it to look great and we want you to feel good. So espouse something with about a temperature of 3,000 or fewer and you’ll be very happy.
TOM: And eventually, update those faucets while you’re at it and become them water-wise. If you reform the faucets or showerheads, it’s an easy way to add some bling to your tub. And if you choose WaterSense fixtures- that’s the EPA’s program for water efficiency- that meant that those fixtures are going to use about 30 -percent little water than a conventional fixture. And you’re not going to give up any execution you’re used to, like having a strong shower to wake you up first thing in the morning.
And there “theres going”: four fix-ups for your soak under 200 bucks each.
LESLIE: Now we’ve went Terry in Nebraska on the line who’s dealing with some woodpeckers. Tell us what’s going on.
TERRY: We have a small woodpecker; it’s about the size of a sparrow. It’s dark gray or black with white speckles on its chest. And it actually hen-peck defects in the recess of my chimney, on the 1x4s. And then the person next door actually remade his chimney with substance that’s same to Sto stucco-type stuff. And they actually peck gaps in that stuff.
TERRY: And he crowds them and they poke more holes.
TOM: Well, look, there’s a couple of things that you can do. One real easy thing to do is to try to dissuade them from arriving on your chimney. You can- temporarily, by the way, on this is what I might advocate, merely only temporarily- hang tin pie plates on the chimney. Because the silvery pie plates kind of drifting in the wind thoroughly freak out woodpeckers.
Another thing that you can do is you could take a Hefty bag and if you were to cut a Hefty bag- like a black Hefty bag?- and cut strips of plastic for the same thing- in other words, have them sort of flopping in the breath around the top of the chimney, that also is very intimidating to woodpeckers and they will leave it alone.
TERRY: Oh, OK.
TOM: And if you do this maybe for a month or so, they might just forget about your house and go attack somebody else’s.
TERRY: Terrific. Alright. Thanks a lot.
TOM: You’re very welcome. Thanks so much for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Now we’ve get Bonnie in California. Welcome to The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
BONNIE: We have a condo that we’ve- it’s been hired for 12 times. And when our renters moved out, we were going to sell it. And we verified blots on the carpet and we envisaged, “Well, we’ll pull up the carpet, supersede it and precisely paint and cleaning process and articulated it up for sale.”
BONNIE: Well, when we drew the carpet back, the cement slab- it’s a cement slab, single-level condo, 1,600- approximately 1,700- square paws with a cement-slab floor. And when we plucked back the carpet, we found that it was very damp and there was that white, blurry kind of effervescence or whatever they call it that comes up from the cement.
TOM: Efflorescence. Mm-hmm.
BONNIE: Parcels of that. We weeping up all the flooring and pictured, “Well, we’ll go ahead and hire a contractor and have it all fixed and applied new nonsense down.” And it didn’t dry out; it really was damp.
But in any case, this problem is not getting solved. We have- we don’t know where to go from here. We want to figure out if there’s some room to seal that flooring that is going to keep it from spoiling the carpet and wood again and get it for sale. But fix it so that it’s- so that we can say it’s fixed.
TOM: Alright. Well, here’s what I think is going on, based on your description. If you’ve got that much of a sea root that close to the concrete slab- concrete is very hydroscopic. I convey it will really absorb spray like crazy. And so if the ground outside is saturated, that is clearly drawing through the concrete into the interior and that’s why the floor has been so wet. My concern is that this could develop, if it hasn’t previously, into a mold problem.
The bad news for the condominium association is that if they’re responsible for the structure of this building, which would include the floor, this is their problem to fix , not your question to fix. And if I was advising them, I would tell them to stop calling contractors to check leaking ponds and start announcing professional engineers that can analyze the building and figure out exactly what’s going on and prescribe the suitable repair. They’ve got to think big here , not believe tiny. Because I think they have a lot of liability, because it’s probably not you; you merely happen to be the one that found it. But if your neighbors start gathering up carpet, they’re going to probably find the same thing.
All that you can do on the inside is really stop-gap. You can clean up the efflorescence, you are eligible to gave a masonry sealer on the flooring. But the problem is that that concrete is going to continue to get wet, continue to get damp and eventually it’s going to pull back into the unit. So, I think that you need to have a very serious sit-down with that condominium association.
BONNIE: Mm-hmm. OK.
TOM: Alright? Good luck, Bonnie.
BONNIE: Thank you very much.
TOM: Thank you for calling us at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, even the cleanest of residences can have mold. And I’m not just talking about the mold you find in the leftovers in the refrigerator that, you know, have been there far too long. Besides being unsightly, when you find mold in your residence, it can actually cause some serious health problems.
So, what do “youre doing when you” find the mildew and is removal a do-it-yourself project? We’re going to walk you through it.
TOM: Now, first, the fullest extent and the characteristics of mold you’re dealing with is going to determine whether or not you can handle that molding cleanup yourself or you need the assistance of a mold-removal pro.
For small-scale cleanup places, which we characterize as 10 square feet or less, emphatically a DIY project as long as no one in the household is super sensitive to mold. But if the cleanup assignment is bigger than 10 square hoofs, it’s time to turn to a pro to get it done.
LESLIE: Now, like hiring any pro out there, selecting a prepared mold-removal pro is going to require that you qualify them very carefully, specially because your health is at stake here. So you want to ask for invokes from past our customers and you want to see information from professional training and certification make-ups, such as the American Indoor Air Quality Council and the Indoor Air Quality Association. You want to see that they are accredited.
You too should check for insurance coverage for mold removal. Carefully re-examine your insurance policy and ask your insurance agent. You need to be aware that mold remediation can be very expensive. And more and more insurance companies are instituting coverage limits or charging extra for mildew equestrians. So you’ve got to make sure that you’re comprised and that you’re prepared for whatever expense you might have to pay out of pocket.
TOM: And lastly , now that you’ve done all this work and maybe even paid for a mold pro, you want to make sure it doesn’t come back. There was a reason that you thrived mold in the first place. And it can grow within 24 to 48 hours whenever air and sweat, like from reveals or runs or even high-pitched relative humidity and condensation and food generators- which, by the way, we’re not talking about hamburger here, we’re talking about drywall; the working paper on drywall is a really great mold food- are present.
So cleaning is going to help kill what’s there but it will likely reappear. So make sure you deal with the conditions that compelled the mildew or the mold to grow in the first place so that all that effort wasn’t for naught.
LESLIE: Jeffrey in Wisconsin, you’ve came The Money Pit. How can we help you today?
JEFFREY: Well, I’ve got cement-board siding and occasionally, a sound performs. And I’m wondering- I’ve tried a marry different caulks. The last one was QUAD. And it really various kinds of expands and shrivels with the brave and it demonstrates when you are depict it. Is there anything out there you could help me with to restores cracks in timber siding?
TOM: What you want to use is a silicone caulk because it’s the most permanent one. It’s went good adhesion and expands and contracts. But you are correct that it is very difficult to paint. So what I would tell you to do is to use a colored caulk, to choose the caulk in the color of the siding. And this lane, you don’t have to worry about depicting it and you could still have a better quality of expansion and constriction and adhesion so it’ll stay put once you apply it. Cement-board siding does not need to be decorated nearly as often as wood siding. So if you get the right color and you get it applied properly, this is something that can be with you for 10 years.
TOM: The commodity is available in many different pigments. I see it on The Home Depot website in gray and tan and lily-white, of course. And there is also something announced “paintable silicone.” It’s a white-hot silicone caulk but it’s paintable. It’s made by GE. It’s called GE Silicone II. So you have a lot of options to choose from.
JEFFREY: Guess I’ll check that out, because what I’ve had so far hasn’t truly done what I’ve been able to be satisfied with.
TOM: Well, remember the secret to a successful caulking project is to make sure the surface is clean and baked when you apply it and make sure you give it slew of time to set up. But I tell you, if it’s done right, it’s jolly indestructible stuff.
JEFFREY: OK. Well, thank you.
TOM: Well , no matter when you listen to The Money Pit, you can always get in on our entertaining giveaways. And today, we are giving away the HART 20 -Volt Cordless 4-Tool Combo Kit. It includes the HART Drill Driver, the Impact Driver, the Reciprocating Saw, an LED light, got a couple of immense 20 -volt batteries, a fast charger and a implement bag.
And this artillery arrangement boulders because you can interchange them with all of the 20 -volt HART makes. They’re well reached, they’re versatile and the kit has everything you need to tackle your project.
Now, if you want to get in on this, you’ve got to call us with a few questions. And I do mean with a home better question, which is not “Can I triumph the trophy? ” But we want to hear what you’re working on. And then we’ll put your name in The Money Pit hard hat and we might be sending that HART 4-Tool 20 -Volt Cordless Combo Kit off to you.
It’s accessible alone at Walmart, present a complete string of instruments and accessories so you can easily tackle any job. Do it with HART. Learn more at HARTTools.com.
And if you just wanted to acquire it, you’ve got to be in it. So, call in with your residence increase question to 1-888-MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Judy in Louisiana, you’ve get The Money Pit. What are you working on?
JUDY: Hi. I was asking about mildew and mold on brick. How do I get wise off the easiest way? I make it’s outside. How do I get wise off the easiest way without damaging the mortar?
TOM: So, there’s a variety of makes out there that can do that. And these cleans, virtually, saturate the molding or the moss or the mildew and then they break down the fibers. And then sprinkle, essentially, launders it away.
They’re slow working. It’s not like you’re going to do it once and it’ll be done. But it will get clean. So, there’s makes like Spray& Forget or Wet& Forget and there’s Concrobium. Zinsser has one. And all of those products are basically a mildicide that is designed to kill that material.
I use them on a ceiling of a shed last year that was literally wholly covered with moss. And I just happened to notice this past weekend, because we were out doing some work on the garden, that I could see all the shingles again as if it never existed. So it really basically softened everything there is away.
So that’s the way to do that. You can pressure-wash some of that off but if you do it, you just have to use a amiable push washer so that you don’t destroy the surfaces underneath.
Good luck with that campaign. Thanks for announcing us at 888 -MONEY-PIT.
LESLIE: Well, when you move into an suite, you’re going to be expected to pay a expense security deposit. Now, when you move out, ethical landowners are going to give you that back if you haven’t began any damage to the apartment. But regrettably , not every landlord is eager to turn over that deposit back to you. But if you take a couple of prudences before, during or after your lease objectives, you can maximize your likelihood of get the entire protection quantity refunded.
TOM: Now, if you want to make sure you can get it back, the best offense is a good defense.
So, first, let’s talk about a really important phrase: wear and tear. Check your loan to see if it contains a definition. You want to know exactly what that conveys. If it doesn’t, ask your landlord to add an addendum so that everyone involved knows exactly what’s considered mar and what constitutes normal wear and tear.
For example, it can get kind of silly. Is a loophole in a wall from a painting that was hung- a minuscule, picture-hanging hole? Is that shatter or is that just sort of ordinary wear and tear? In some lawsuits, it’s damage and they might charge you to patch that tiny opening and repaint the part wall.
LESLIE: Now, next up- and this is important. Your landlord should be providing you a pattern that you’re going to fill out to detail the property’s condition before you move in. And this is your chance to roster any of those preexisting blemishes, dents, any other damage concerns. You want to make sure to roster anything that you feel could be charged to you after you move out. So I’m talking about preexisting nail openings, rifts in shower tiles. If there’s a stain on a carpet or on the vinyl flooring, if there’s a hit in the window, if any of the window screens are torn, make sure you take pictures of the damage.
Really, precisely report the part lieu. Take photos of every spot of all the areas so that you can really be like, “I didn’t do this. This was here.” So you’ve got a leg to stand on to get your deposit back.
TOM: It actually all comes down to communication. It’s a good suggestion to do a walkthrough of your contingent with your landowner when you move in and likewise when you keep it moving, so that you can both agree on any deficiencies that you find, what needs to be fixed, what doesn’t and so on. If you do this, you will minimize the chance of having any besets when it’s time to move out.
LESLIE: Joanne in New Jersey needs assist with a cellar campaign. Now, she writes: “We recently decided to replace, you are familiar with, update the drop-ceiling panels in our basement. There are lots of really cool, brand-new ceiling-panel blueprints and we’re ready for an upgrade. However, we’re also concerned about reducing noise between storeys and wondered if you had any suggestions.”
TOM: Boy, she’s right about all the new ceiling-panel blueprints. They’re magnificent. We used to only have those acoustic-ceiling tiles “thats been” 2 paw by 4 foot and grassland, white, nasty-looking even when they came straight out of the box. But now you can have all these beautiful ceiling-panel designs. Some of them look like tin ceilings and other sort of fancy motifs. So that’s unquestionably a good upgrade.
Now, in terms of the noise, yeah, it is a good time to deal with this because you’re going to take all those panels down. There is a type of product announced “mineral wool” or “rockwool insulation.” In fact, the company is called ROCKWOOL Safe’n’Sound. And this type of insulation is stiffer than fiberglass. It’s a little easier to cut. And it’s specifically designed to not only insulate but also abbreviate sound transmission.
So, if you were to use that, it comes in two sizings to go between storey joists that are either 16 inches on centre or 24 on center. And you can position it up there. It chips delicately around cables and other impedimentums. And I think you’ll find that it’s going to be a lot quieter between those storeys if you do something like that. And now is the time to do it, Joanne.
LESLIE: Alright. Good luck with that projection and enjoy the brand-new basement.
Now, Jason writes: “I need opinion dealing with an old-time hearth. Our house has a gas fireplace that is just a single piping with openings. Do we need anything special to use it or can I just light-headed it? ”
TOM: Oh , no. Do not do that. Do not light-footed that. If you just have a single pipe that’s coming out with pits, that might be what’s called a “gas starter” but I don’t know. If it’s a really old thing like that, I has not been able to trust it.
Today, the gas logs for gas fireplaces, even the ones where you’re proselytizing a brick fireplace to a gas fireplace, it’s kind of like a contained contraption. I make it’s designed for the size of the hearth. If you have a really big, wide, brick hearth, it’s going to be different than if you have a small one. It’s not just a hose with pits in it. It’s a gas valve, it’s a lighting structure. The ceramic logs themselves are sized so that they can help radiate more heat. So, that’s clearly the kind of appliance you demand. You don’t time want to light that pipe that you experience sticking out in your wall.
In fact, I is very likely indicate it’s a good theme if you have a modified chimney move or better yet, a company locally that sells gas fireplaces do an inspection. And make sure what’s there is not dangerous, because you’re going to have to make sure that the brand-new appliance is properly connected. And that involves working with that gas course and make sure the valves are not leaking and all that.
So, it’s a hassle and it’s not a hard place. But it’s unquestionably one that you need to do to be very, very careful. And by the way, if you’re going to use a gas hearth, the volcano- the damper- has to be open. It has to be open. In fact, there is a fitting you can put on those damper openings. It’s kind of like- it looks like a C-clamp made out of thick metal that thwarts mortal from closing it inadvertently. Because if you fire up that gas gadget and you’ve got your damper closed, you could force carbon monoxide to organize in the entire house, which would be very, very dangerous. So, make sure you know what you’re doing before you use that.
And why do you want to have a gas fireplace anyway? It’s merely not as neat as wood.
LESLIE: I don’t know. You know I upgraded to the gas fireplace. And I say upgrade because I can turn it on and off anytime and not deal with the hassle of actually igniting a attack. So I’m not committee with this.
TOM: Well, there is that.
This is The Money Pit Home Improvement Show. Hey , thank you for coming in, guys, for spending a good part of your daylight listening to us. We hope we’ve been helpful in giving you some ideas and inspiration to take on projects around your room. If you’ve got something in attention, something planned for now or the very near future, don’t hesitate to contact us at 888 -MONEY-PIT or affix your questions at MoneyPit.com.
Until then, I’m Tom Kraeutler.
LESLIE: And I’m Leslie Segrete.
TOM: Remember, you can do it yourself …
LESLIE: But you don’t have to make love alone.
END HOUR 1 TEXT
( Copyright 2021 Squeaky Door Creation, Inc. No segment of this transcript or audio document may be reproduced in any format without the express written authorization of Squeaky Door Creation, Inc .)
The post Episode# 2086: 4 Beautiful Bath Upgrades Under $200 | DIY Mold Cleanups | Avoid Losing Security Deposits | Soundproofing Between Floors showed first on The Money Pit.
From Source Article: moneypit.com